The Best of Cambodia & Laos

The Spiders of Skuon
In the town of Skuon at the junction between highways 6 and 7, people eat big,
juicy tarantulas with relish. They are hairy, large, and they move alarmingly
quickly (when not yet fried). Originally unearthed by starving Cambodians in
the dark days of Khmer Rouge tyranny, Skuon’s spiders have been transformed
from vital sustenance of desperate refugees to a national delicacy. Black, hairy,
and packing vicious, venom-soaked fangs, the burrowing arachnids common
to the jungle around Skuon do not appear at first sight to be very delicious at
all. For local people, the “a-ping,” as the breed of palm-size tarantula is called in
Khmer, is a source of fame and fortune in an otherwise impoverished region. At
around 300 riel a spider, the eight-legged snack industry provides a tidy
income in a country where around one-third of people live below the poverty
line of $1 per day. Conservationists and vegetarians might recoil at the relentless
pursuit of so many spiders for the sake of a snack, but locals are confident
the arachnid population will hold up. According to aficionados, the best spider
is one plucked straight from its burrow and pan-fried with lashings of garlic
and salt over a traditional wood fire until its skin turns a deep red-brown color.
Crispy on the outside, gooey on the inside, it should then be served piping hot.
Many Cambodians also attest to its medicinal properties, especially when
mixed in a rice wine cocktail. It is said that with the wine, it’s very important the
spiders still have their fangs, or the medicine loses its power.
serve food. The British-run Star Guesthouse (west side of the market; & 072/971-663;
$4 single, $5 double) is the most established place in town and the management is very
knowledgeable about things to do and onward travel arrangements. The Balcony Guesthouse
(Rue Sumamarit on the riverfront, 350m/1,148 ft. north of the bus stop;
& 016/604-036; $4 double shared bathroom, $6 double attached bathroom) is a new
addition to the Kratie guesthouse scene and is jointly Australian and Khmer managed. It
has large, light, clean rooms with good-quality furnishings. There is a relaxing restaurant/
bar on the balcony overlooking the Mekong, and a communal area with a large collection
of DVDs. The Heng Heng Hotel (Rue Sumamarit; & 072/971-405; $12 double, $5
single) offers nice riverfront rooms, and the restaurant is a good dining option. The
Oudom Sambath Hotel (Rue Sumamarit; & 072/971-502; $15 double, $8 single) is
by Kratie standards veering toward opulence. The Santepheap Hotel (Rue Sumamarit;
& 072/971-537; $15 double, $8 single) is another more mildly upmarket option with
TV. The You Hong Guesthouse (north of the market; & 012/957-003; $3 double) is
a popular budget option. They have Internet (on standard computers) and the management
is experienced in dealing with most questions you might need answered.
In addition to guesthouse restaurants, the place to be as the afternoon turns into
evening is along the riverfront where stalls set up selling grilled chicken, soup, and other
Khmer staples. Don’t expect anything grand. The Red Sun Falling (Rue Preah Sumarit;
main courses $1–$4) is the liveliest place in town (which of course means it is actually
quite quiet).
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BATTAMBANG & NORTHERN CAMBODIA 7
KRATIE