The Best of Cambodia & Laos

a mix of traditional Khmer ballads and ’70s soul. Whole families would come down on
a Sunday evening and boogie together. Sadly these are now gone and the main nightspot
dancing venue is the Sky Disco (& 012/862-777; open daily 8pm–1am) near the Khemara
Hotel and Cold Night restaurant on Old NH#5. This is much more of a modern
Thai-influenced affair with some pretty strange playlists. It can get busy on weekends and
is a good place (well, the only place) to expend energy and work up a dance-induced sweat.
2 KOMPONG CHHNANG
Kompong Chhnang is a great place to break up the road journey from Battambang to
Phnom Penh, whether you stop only for lunch or stay the night. It is a quiet, elegant
town distinguished by some beautiful Colonial French architecture and a bustling riverfront
that begs out for shutterbugs to do their thing. The word Chhnang means earthenware
pot and it is the production of these that gives the town its name. It has long been
one of the most prosperous towns in Cambodia and that is echoed in the laid back charm
of the place. Apart from fishing, the main activity here seems to be petanque, or the
French equivalent of bowls.
GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND
The ferries going from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap pass by Kompong Chhnang. If this is
where you fancy being put ashore, ask the operator when you buy your ticket and make
sure that the request has been relayed to the crew. Kompong Chhnang is right on
National Highway 5, so all buses between Phnom Penh and Battambang also pass
through town. You can also get a seat in a shared taxi for $3 from Phnom Penh 2 hours
away, and $9 from Battambang 4 hours away.
Kompong Chhnang
Banks & Currency Exchange Acleda Bank (NH5; & 026/988-748) changes
travelers checks and has an ATM. Canadia Bank (Street 33. & 026/770-017)
provides the same services.
Internet Access A number of mobile phone shops near the bus station have one
or two computers hooked up to the internet and can be used for $1 per hour. Do
not expect speedy connections.
WHERE TO STAY & DINE
Sokha Guesthouse (southwest of the central square; & 012/762-988. $5 double fan,
$13 double A/C) has been around a while, catering to NGO workers as well as those
aimlessly passing through. It is clean, efficient, and friendly. The Sovannphum Hotel
(NH5 towards Phnom Penh; & 011/886-472; $10 double) is a brand new businessorientated
hotel where everything works smoothly. It is a good alternative to Sokha,
though it lacks its style and warmth. The Somrongsen Hotel (Phsar Krom Road;
& 026/989-011; $10 double) is a new place with large, airy rooms around a courtyard.
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BATTAMBANG & NORTHERN CAMBODIA 7
KOMPONG CHHNANG