The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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BATTAMBANG & NORTHERN CAMBODIA
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BATTAMBANG
Phnom Banan This mountaintop temple dates from the 11th century and consists
of five prasats or towers. Its elevated location gives good views in all directions. It is quite
a daunting climb up to the ruins, but you can buy drinks once at the top. The opening
times vary, but it’s generally open from 7am to 6pm.
Phnom Sampeou Mountain This hilltop temple on the road to the old Khmer
Rouge stronghold of Pailin affords fantastic views of the surrounding area. There are still
two government artillery pieces in place pointing to the former Khmer Rouge positions.
About halfway up the hill are the “Killing Caves.” This was an execution ground during
the years of Democratic Kampuchea. Victims were bludgeoned to death and thrown into
the caves. There are kids at the base of the mountain, some of whom speak good English
and act as guides for a small fee. There are two ways to the summit. One by steep stairs,
the other by a far easier track around the sides of the mountain. Phnom Sampeou is best
visited in either the early morning or the late afternoon when the light is best and the
views are best lit. It’s generally open from 7am to 6pm.
Provincial Museum The Battambang Provincial Museum is on the riverfront in the
center of town and houses a large collection of Angkorian and pre-Angkorian statues and
carvings. Magnificent carved lintels (similar to those in Ek Phnom) and ornate pedestals,
heads of Hindu gods, and a huge urn are some of the highlights. A visit here complements
a day spent looking at some of the nearby ruins.
St. 1. Mon–Fri 8–11am and 2–5pm. Admission $1.
Boat Trip on the Sangker River Gecko Cafe (p. 141) offers an afternoon cruise
lasting about 1 1 ⁄2 hours on the Sangker River. If you have not taken the boat from Siem
Reap this will give you a chance to see village life along the banks. The cruise costs $8 to
$12 per person depending on the numbers, and you get a cocktail thrown in free.
SHOPPING
Psar Nath in the center of town is the main market and is geared toward locals. You can
find all kinds of practical goods and foodstuffs—fruit, vegetables, meat, clothing, kramas,
shoes, hats, food stalls, and so on. Gem dealers, photo shops, and money-changers
line the streets that surround the market. Psar Leu, just south of town, is the place to
buy produce such as oranges and pomelos. The oranges are said to be the best in Cambodia.
The Smiling Sky Bookshop (St. 2; & 012/298-005) sells secondhand Englishlanguage
books including Cambodia-related titles, novels, and popular literature. They
also trade books. Pulp (btw. St. 2 and St. 3; & 012/178-3584) is a new secondhand
bookshop. They also sell snacks and coffee. There are a few souvenir shops on streets 1
and 2 selling local goods such as woodcarvings and some cotton and silk accessories.
Compared to Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, though, the options are limited. The main
commodity on sale in the center of town seems to be cellphones—Battambang must have
more cellphone shops per capita then anywhere else on the planet.
AFTER DARK
Battambang is very quiet after 9pm. There are karaoke joints, restaurants, and a few bars
but they hardly make a dent in the town’s general sleepiness. The Bus Stop (p. 140) stays
open until midnight if there are customers and it can get quite busy. The Riverside
Balcony Bar (p. 141) also caters to a crowd if one is around. Until 2001, there were a
number of fantastic discos on Street 3 where a live band would get the crowd going with