The Best of Cambodia & Laos

into a trip back on a small metal-and-bamboo, motor-driven platform that sits on top of
the train tracks, a common form of transport considering that the train only passes once
each day. A visit to Wat Phnom Ek is an additional trip in the other direction.
Bamboo Train The bamboo train is an improvised form of transportation that follows
the now-defunct railway tracks. It is made up of a small bamboo cart powered by a
motorcycle engine that rides the railroad tracks picking up and dropping off passengers,
cargo, animals, motorcycles, and pretty much anything else along the way. When two of
these contraptions meet, one (the one carrying less cargo) is whipped off the rails in a
minute or two while the other is allowed to pass. You can find these marvels of invention
at various intersections around town. The motodups will know where they are. Times vary.
Cooking School at the Smokin’ Pot There is no better way to understand the
depth and complexity of a country’s cuisine than to cook something for yourself. The
Smokin’ Pot Restaurant offers a very popular cooking course that covers many of the
bases. The day starts at the market, where you’ll pick up ingredients such as piles of fresh
herbs, tubs of pungent prahoc (fermented fish paste), and a selection of meat both white
and red. With six students and one teacher in a class, the Smokin’ Pot (p. 142) offers an
intimate hands-on learning session. You get busy chopping chilies and lemon grass,
pounding galangal, kaffir leaves, and garlic, creating an authentic curry paste. Then you
put it to good use. Amok is the signature dish here and if you get to master this then you
are looking at big praise if you serve it at dinner parties in Europe or the States. It is
delicious. The cooking class costs a very reasonable $8 for the day, which usually includes
three dishes.
Class daily 9am–1:30pm.
PPS Circus Phare Ponleu Selpak, meaning “the brightness of art,” originated during
the civil war in 1986 in Site 2 Refugee Camp on the Thai border. The idea of a creative
association, which would use art and expression to help young refugees overcome the
trauma of war, emerged from drawing workshops held for children in the camps. This
original idea continued after the refugees returned to their homeland, and PPS was formally
founded in 1994 by a group of former Site 2 children. They have weekly circus
shows (every Thurs at 8pm unless you are Khmer, in which case it’s free) mixing different
disciplines, live music, choreography, tremendous technique, poetry, and burlesque.
Through the performance of all these artistic outlets, these teenagers and young adults
give to the audience their vision of modern Cambodia. Contact the Phare Ponleu Selpak
office for the schedule. Be aware that the circus is in a fairly poor suburb. Make sure you
already have transport back to your hotel since tuk-tuks and motodups will be scarce.
Rte. 5 about 1km ( 1 ⁄2 mile) west of town. & 053/952-424 or 012/890-360. www.phareps.org.
Ek Phnom This atmospheric Angkorian pile dates from the 11th century and was
constructed as a Hindu temple under Suryavarman I and is really quite impressive. The
temple consists of prasats on a platform with some bas-relief carvings in very good condition.
You can climb up to the main sanctuary although you may have company from the
local contingent of beggars. Some of the stone doorways are semi-collapsed in a very
aesthetically crooked way. There is a modern pagoda next to the temple of no distinction.
The river road drive to Ek Phnom from Battambang passes through small villages and
rice paddies, and it is an absolutely stunning little journey, a real slice of genuine rural
Cambodia.
Admission $2.
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