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its relaxed, open-air charm. <strong>The</strong> typical Khmer and Western food has never stood out but<br />
it was always adequate and, in keeping with its name, the beer is always cold.<br />
East bank <strong>of</strong> the river. Old NH#5. & 012/994-746. Main courses $4–$6. Daily 6am–11pm.<br />
Fresh Eats Cafe WESTERN This is a good place for snacks, pastries, pizza, pies,<br />
Western breakfasts, and an excellent selection <strong>of</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fee and tea. It is conveniently situated<br />
near many <strong>of</strong> the hotels around Psar Nath and is affiliated with an NGO that helps<br />
families affected by HIV/AIDS.<br />
West <strong>of</strong> Psar Nath past the Royal Hotel. & 053/953-912. Main courses $1–$3. Mon–Sat 6:30am–9pm.<br />
Gecko Cafe WESTERN/ASIAN Right in the center <strong>of</strong> town on Street 3 is<br />
this wonderful old French colonial building, with a new cafe on the second floor. Most<br />
<strong>of</strong> the Gecko Bar takes up the surrounding balcony, furnished with comfortable wicker<br />
furniture and cushions. <strong>The</strong> food is light with a combination <strong>of</strong> pasta, great burgers, and<br />
sandwiches, and they also do some Khmer signature dishes such as amok. With some<br />
dishes the logistics are way <strong>of</strong>f—after ordering the battered and fried fish with french<br />
fries, the two constituents <strong>of</strong> the meal arrived half an hour apart. If you’re a tea drinker,<br />
skip the tea here, which is orange and virulent-tasting. <strong>The</strong>y also <strong>of</strong>fer foot and shoulder<br />
massage. All in all, the Gecko cafe is a fine addition to Battambang’s dining scene just for<br />
the ambience alone.<br />
St. 3. & 092/719-985. www.geckocafecambodia.com. Main courses $4.50. Daily 8am–10pm.<br />
Pkay Proek KHMER/THAI This Thai and Khmer restaurant has been around<br />
a long time and was a favorite <strong>of</strong> the expat/NGO crowd, largely because there wasn’t<br />
much else around and also because it is very good. It remains very good. With spicy Thai<br />
and lemony Khmer, the Pkay Proek serves fresh curries, river fish, and amok. It is popular<br />
with locals and visitors alike. If you want an authentic Khmer meal in the company<br />
<strong>of</strong> local diners, this is the place to visit.<br />
St. 3. & 089/888-819. Main courses $2.50–$4. Daily 9am–10pm.<br />
Pomme d’Amour FRENCH This newcomer to the Battambang scene serves<br />
excellent French provincial food in quirky but tasteful surroundings. It is not the place<br />
to go if you are on a diet since it is a palace <strong>of</strong> blood-red beefsteak with heavy creamy<br />
sauces accompanied by a wide range <strong>of</strong> red wine. If you are in the mood for something<br />
Gallic, rich, and delicious this should be your first stop. It is furnished with lots <strong>of</strong> billowing<br />
silk and muslin. <strong>The</strong> tables are artfully decorated, again with rich dark silk. It<br />
could almost be called boutique but it isn’t, simply because it all feels a little bit too crazy,<br />
but in an engaging and fun way. It is no surprise to hear that the “patron” is a lifelong<br />
circus performer. It is situated in the small street between Street 2 and Street 3 running<br />
parallel to both at the northern end near Psar Nath.<br />
63 St. 2 1 ⁄2. & 012/415-513. Main courses $6–$15. Daily 8am–10pm.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Riverside Balcony Bar WESTERN <strong>The</strong> Riverside Balcony is quite<br />
simply one <strong>of</strong> the best bars in <strong>Cambodia</strong>. It is found in an all-wooden Khmer house right<br />
on the river 1km ( 1 ⁄2 mile) south <strong>of</strong> the Teo Hotel. It used to be a private house for the<br />
Battambang program director <strong>of</strong> the United Nations High Commission for Refugees.<br />
Now it is Australian owned and has become a central part <strong>of</strong> the Battambang experience.<br />
<strong>The</strong> restaurant’s giant dark-wood veranda exudes an atmosphere <strong>of</strong> relaxed grandeur. <strong>The</strong><br />
food is not the main draw here, though the burgers are very good and they have a good<br />
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BATTAMBANG & NORTHERN CAMBODIA 7<br />
BATTAMBANG