The Best of Cambodia & Laos

its relaxed, open-air charm. The typical Khmer and Western food has never stood out but
it was always adequate and, in keeping with its name, the beer is always cold.
East bank of the river. Old NH#5. & 012/994-746. Main courses $4–$6. Daily 6am–11pm.
Fresh Eats Cafe WESTERN This is a good place for snacks, pastries, pizza, pies,
Western breakfasts, and an excellent selection of coffee and tea. It is conveniently situated
near many of the hotels around Psar Nath and is affiliated with an NGO that helps
families affected by HIV/AIDS.
West of Psar Nath past the Royal Hotel. & 053/953-912. Main courses $1–$3. Mon–Sat 6:30am–9pm.
Gecko Cafe WESTERN/ASIAN Right in the center of town on Street 3 is
this wonderful old French colonial building, with a new cafe on the second floor. Most
of the Gecko Bar takes up the surrounding balcony, furnished with comfortable wicker
furniture and cushions. The food is light with a combination of pasta, great burgers, and
sandwiches, and they also do some Khmer signature dishes such as amok. With some
dishes the logistics are way off—after ordering the battered and fried fish with french
fries, the two constituents of the meal arrived half an hour apart. If you’re a tea drinker,
skip the tea here, which is orange and virulent-tasting. They also offer foot and shoulder
massage. All in all, the Gecko cafe is a fine addition to Battambang’s dining scene just for
the ambience alone.
St. 3. & 092/719-985. www.geckocafecambodia.com. Main courses $4.50. Daily 8am–10pm.
Pkay Proek KHMER/THAI This Thai and Khmer restaurant has been around
a long time and was a favorite of the expat/NGO crowd, largely because there wasn’t
much else around and also because it is very good. It remains very good. With spicy Thai
and lemony Khmer, the Pkay Proek serves fresh curries, river fish, and amok. It is popular
with locals and visitors alike. If you want an authentic Khmer meal in the company
of local diners, this is the place to visit.
St. 3. & 089/888-819. Main courses $2.50–$4. Daily 9am–10pm.
Pomme d’Amour FRENCH This newcomer to the Battambang scene serves
excellent French provincial food in quirky but tasteful surroundings. It is not the place
to go if you are on a diet since it is a palace of blood-red beefsteak with heavy creamy
sauces accompanied by a wide range of red wine. If you are in the mood for something
Gallic, rich, and delicious this should be your first stop. It is furnished with lots of billowing
silk and muslin. The tables are artfully decorated, again with rich dark silk. It
could almost be called boutique but it isn’t, simply because it all feels a little bit too crazy,
but in an engaging and fun way. It is no surprise to hear that the “patron” is a lifelong
circus performer. It is situated in the small street between Street 2 and Street 3 running
parallel to both at the northern end near Psar Nath.
63 St. 2 1 ⁄2. & 012/415-513. Main courses $6–$15. Daily 8am–10pm.
The Riverside Balcony Bar WESTERN The Riverside Balcony is quite
simply one of the best bars in Cambodia. It is found in an all-wooden Khmer house right
on the river 1km ( 1 ⁄2 mile) south of the Teo Hotel. It used to be a private house for the
Battambang program director of the United Nations High Commission for Refugees.
Now it is Australian owned and has become a central part of the Battambang experience.
The restaurant’s giant dark-wood veranda exudes an atmosphere of relaxed grandeur. The
food is not the main draw here, though the burgers are very good and they have a good
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