The Best of Cambodia & Laos

Battambang &
Northern Cambodia
From laid-back Battambang in
Cambodia’s far northwest to Ratanakiri in
the northeast, there are riches to discover
in Northern Cambodia in addition to the
glories of Angkor Wat (see chapter 6).
1 BATTAMBANG
Atmospheric, French colonial architecture
in Battambang and Kratie, the wild natural
beauty of the highlands bordering
Vietnam, or a meal of deep-fried tarantulas
in Skuon all offer a fresh perspective.
Until recently, Battambang was considered an undiscovered gem among those who ventured
farther afield than Siem Riep, Phnom Penh, and Sihanoukville. It remains a gem,
but it is also now being discovered in a big way. There are hotels, cafes, and restaurants
in numbers. Not so long ago there were limited options, and your fellow diners would
generally be NGO field workers, Scandinavian de-miners drinking copious amounts of
beer while not on the job, and the occasional journalist heading to the former Khmer
Rouge stronghold of Pailin in an attempt to unlock dark secrets (none have yet succeeded).
As it stands at present, Battambang is in that precarious period of grace where
what made it special has not been swamped by a tourist influx, but the comforts and
facilities you might want to make it a comfortable stay are all in place. It may well stay
that way given that Battambang will never see the same kind of flood of visitors justifiably
attracted by the wonders of Angkor.
Battambang does not have major sites like Angkor Wat (where else does?), nor does it
have the buzz of a capital city like Phnom Penh. In fact considering that it is Cambodia’s
second city it could still best be described as somnambulant. What Battambang does have
is wonderful French colonnaded architecture and a relaxing riverside atmosphere. It is an
elegant place in a slightly dusty and chaotic Cambodian way. In the surrounding countryside
are temples, Angkorian ruins, and rich scenery. This is the “rice-bowl” of Cambodia,
and if you are here when the paddies are green and the sun is shining, you are witness
to a quintessential vision of Cambodian rural life. Many fall for its intangible grace. After
a day spent exploring the jungled temple ruins in the countryside around the city, followed
by a gin and tonic in the Riverside Balcony Bar with the sound of the Tropics
gently drifting up from the trees and the river below, it is easy to see why.
ORIENTATION
Arriving
Battambang is small and the center is easy to navigate by foot. If you want to venture
farther afield, motodups are plentiful until after 8pm when you might consider hiring one
for the duration of the evening to save the hassle of tracking one down on the dark and
leafy outskirts.
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