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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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APSARA DANCE<br />

Having spent the day looking at the stone variety <strong>of</strong> Apsaras, why not spend an evening<br />

checking out the living ones? A number <strong>of</strong> places around town hold shows <strong>of</strong> Apsara Dance.<br />

Angkor Village. Dancers in traditional gilded costume practice their slow elegant art.<br />

This comes combined with a fine set Khmer menu in the traditional indoor banquethouse<br />

theater. To make reservations for the nightly show call & 063/963-561. Dinner<br />

begins at 7pm, and the show starts at 7:30pm (tickets cost $22).<br />

<strong>The</strong> Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor has a similar show in an open pavilion on the<br />

lawn at the front <strong>of</strong> the hotel ($32 including dinner). Times and performances vary so<br />

be sure to call & 063/963-888 in advance. Most hotels have a performance space, and<br />

many small restaurants have shows <strong>of</strong> varying quality.<br />

Okay, admittedly this one is pretty kitschy, but the kids might like it: <strong>Cambodia</strong><br />

Cultural Center, far west <strong>of</strong> Siem Reap on the airport road (Svay Dongkum; & 063/<br />

963-836) holds a host <strong>of</strong> shows and all-day events, including a mock Khmer wedding<br />

and Apsara dance. Call for current <strong>of</strong>ferings, as the program varies. If you don’t like the<br />

performance, take heart that you can walk the grounds, set around a large central pond,<br />

spend some time in <strong>Cambodia</strong>’s only wax museum, walk among all <strong>of</strong> <strong>Cambodia</strong>’s sights<br />

done in miniature, or visit various exhibits <strong>of</strong> village life and rural skill. You can even get<br />

around in an electric car. This one’s most popular with Asian tour groups.<br />

Dr. Beat (Beatocello) Richner plays the works <strong>of</strong> Bach and some <strong>of</strong> his own comic<br />

pieces between stories and vignettes about his work as director <strong>of</strong> the Kantha Bopha<br />

Foundation, a humanitarian hospital just north <strong>of</strong> the town center. Admission is free,<br />

but donations are accepted in support <strong>of</strong> their valiant efforts to serve a steady stream <strong>of</strong><br />

destitute patients, mostly children, who suffer from treatable diseases such as tuberculosis.<br />

Dr. Richner is as passionate about his music as he is about his cause. You’re in for an<br />

enjoyable, informative evening. Performances are every Saturday at 7:15pm just north <strong>of</strong><br />

the town center on the road to the temples.<br />

Siem Reap<br />

ATMs As with Phnom Penh, ATMs are springing up at a fast pace in Siem Reap.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re are many around Psar Chas and they accept all major cards. Canadia Bank<br />

is the kindest in terms <strong>of</strong> fees charged.<br />

Banks & Currency Exchange Canadia Bank, on the western side <strong>of</strong> the Old<br />

Market (& 063/964-808), and ANZ Royal Bank (566–570 Tep Vong St.; & 023/<br />

726-900) are the best options for services. ANZ has several ATMs around town<br />

including one at the central branch and two 24-hour ATMs in the heart <strong>of</strong> the<br />

backpacker district just south <strong>of</strong> Red Piano Bar. You can change traveler’s checks<br />

in some hotels and in any bank.<br />

Doctors & Hospitals Royal Angkor International Hospital (No. 6 Airport Rd.;<br />

& 063/761-888; www.royalangkorhospital.com) provides 24-hour emergency care,<br />

ambulance, translation, and evacuation. Check on their website before departure<br />

to make sure your insurance covers you under their terms and conditions.<br />

Emergencies <strong>The</strong>re’s a tourist police station near the entrance to the temples.<br />

For local police, dial & 117. In the event <strong>of</strong> a medical emergency, contact International<br />

SOS Clinic in Phnom Penh (& 023/216-911).<br />

131<br />

SIEM REAP 6<br />

FAST FACTS: SIEM REAP

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