The Best of Cambodia & Laos

130
SIEM REAP
6
NIGHTLIFE
The Remote Temple of Preah Vihear
Known as Preah Vihear to the Khmer and Khao Phra Wiharn to the Thais, this
beautiful temple dramatically situated 1,700 feet up on the top of a cliff along
the Dangrek range of mountains, is one of the most spectacular Angkorian
temples. Part of a chain of Angkorian temples stretching across Laos and northern
Thailand, the temple is 200km (124 miles) from Angkor, near the border
with Thailand.
One has to travel terrible roads through one of Cambodia’s most scarred and
wild provinces to reach Preah Vihear. It is a trip only for the adventurous. It is
possible to take a shared taxi from Siem Reap to the town of Sra Em (about
3 hours, $7.50) which is 19 miles from the temple; then a motorcycle taxi up
the mountain to Preah Vihear (about $3.75). Roads are at their worst during the
rainy season, from June to October.
Work started on Preah Vihear in the early 9th century and it ended up being
a bit of a mishmash of styles, since it was altered and added to a number of
times over the centuries. Appropriately dedicated to Shiva the Destroyer (given
the destruction that has subsequently surrounded it), the earliest surviving
parts of the temple date from the early 10th century. The bulk of it was constructed
during the reigns of kings Suryavarman I (1002–50) and Suryavarman II
(1113–50). Like Angkor Wat itself, Preah Vihear is a representation of Mount
Meeru—the abode of the gods.
During the years of war, Preah Vihear proved to be a formidable fortress. In
1975, it was the last place held by Lon Nol troops before they were driven out
by the Khmer Rouge. After that, Preah Vihear Province and the Dangrek Mountains
were Khmer Rouge heartland. Many of the Khmer soldiers garrisoning the
temple area today are former Khmer Rouge soldiers.
The temple has long been claimed by both the Thais and the Khmers. In
1962, the International Court of Justice in the Hague definitively awarded the
temple to Cambodia, according to maps drawn up by the French and previously
not disputed by the Thais. The land surrounding it is still in dispute, and
battles have been fought over it recently with casualties on both sides. Due to
its strategic importance, Khmers won’t permit Preah Vihear to be Thai. It is a
point of supreme military advantage, and a natural artillery platform from
which an enemy could target positions deep within Cambodia. The reality is a
military one as much as a historical or cultural one.
In July 2008, Preah Vihear was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
This drew a storm of protest from Thailand because perceived Khmer encroachments
on surrounding territory in the Thai province of Sisaket were yet to be
resolved, along with calls for joint heritage status. At the time of writing, border
crossing from Thailand was closed. Preah Vihear has become a political football
for both sides, useful for raising nationalistic feelings and anger when there is
an election looming. If planning to visit, be sure to read local papers to check
the political climate first.