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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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128<br />

SIEM REAP<br />

6<br />

NIGHTLIFE<br />

help villagers in Takeo, south <strong>of</strong> Phnom Penh, grow their own businesses. <strong>The</strong>re is also a<br />

brand-new branch <strong>of</strong> Wanderlust in Phnom Penh (on No. 21 St. 240). Open Mon-Sat<br />

11am-10pm; Sun 2-10pm. Alley West. & 063/965-980. www.wanderlustcambodia.com.<br />

MARKETS<br />

Angkor Night Market Entering this market, you may think that you’ve arrived in<br />

Thailand. Neat thatched ro<strong>of</strong>s cover stalls selling an array <strong>of</strong> silks, statuary, souvenirs,<br />

clothing, jewelry, and art. You won’t find any bargains here, but it is a relaxed place to<br />

shop with little <strong>of</strong> the hassle one finds elsewhere. You can check it out beforehand by<br />

looking at their website. Daily 3pm to midnight. Off Sivatha Rd. & 092/654-315. www.<br />

angkornightmarket.com.<br />

New Market Recently rebuilt, the New Market is distinct from the old in that it<br />

caters more to local tastes, which makes it good for a wander and for taking some photos.<br />

Open daily from dawn to dusk. On the north end <strong>of</strong> Sivatha St.<br />

Psar Chas, the Old Market <strong>The</strong> very heart <strong>of</strong> tourist Siem Reap, this is the best<br />

place to find Buddhist trinkets and souvenirs such as T-shirts, as well as good books on<br />

the temples. <strong>The</strong> market is a fun wander and friendly folks here are used to foreign visitors<br />

so you can easily haggle in English (or by passing a calculator back and forth to<br />

display your <strong>of</strong>fer on an item). <strong>The</strong> many food stalls on the north end <strong>of</strong> the market are<br />

a good way to sample local cuisine for next to nothing. Most businesses in town give their<br />

address in relation to the Old Market address, so it’s a good place to know for orientation<br />

purposes. Open daily from dawn to dusk. Riverside in the south end <strong>of</strong> town.<br />

6 NIGHTLIFE<br />

Siem Reap is a town where most visitors are up with the sun and out visiting the temple<br />

sites, but there are an increasing number <strong>of</strong> good evening options.<br />

BARS & CLUBS<br />

Pub Street is now beginning to resemble the party towns <strong>of</strong> Thailand with throbbing<br />

music, wandering crowds, boisterous backpackers, hawkers, prostitutes, and touts. It is<br />

amazing how quickly these developments have taken place. <strong>The</strong>re are now quite a number<br />

<strong>of</strong> bars open into the small hours.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Angkor What? (Pub St., 1 block west <strong>of</strong> the Old Market; & 012/490-755) was<br />

the first—and still the most popular—one here, more or less where it’s at in Siem Reap.<br />

Sign your name on the wall and say hi to all those you met that day at the temples or on<br />

highways elsewhere. Easy Speaking Café and Pub, just next to the busy Angkor What?<br />

(above), handles the spillover. A similar crowd stays late. World Lounge (& 012/865-<br />

332), in the same area, also rocks late and has a free pool table.<br />

At Miss Wong (<strong>The</strong> Lane behind Pub St.; 855/92-428-332) you’ll leave <strong>Cambodia</strong><br />

behind and time-travel to Old Shanghai. This bar, with deep red walls, leather booths,<br />

and excellent cocktails, adds some welcome class to Siem Reap’s after-dark scene.<br />

Dead Fish Tower (& 063/963-060), on the main road heading toward the temples,<br />

is set up like the rigging <strong>of</strong> a tall ship, with precarious perches, funky nooks, and unique<br />

drinks.<br />

Laundry (& 016/962-026) is the funky side <strong>of</strong> Siem Reap. When the temple town<br />

gets psychedelic and stays up really late, this is where it happens. On a side street to the

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