The Best of Cambodia & Laos

Westerners until a French researcher stumbled across it only recently. Dating from the
early 11th century, the relief carvings that line the streambeds are said to purify the water
before it fills the reservoirs (called barays) of Angkor. It’s the journey here that’s really
interesting—on some rough roads through rural villages north of Banteay Srei—and
there’s a fun forest hike (about 30 min. to the first waterfall). Khmers come here to picnic,
and it’s a good spot to swim or follow the path that trips along at brook side; from
there, you can view the many carvings in relief on the banks and creek bed.
5km (31 ⁄2 miles) north of Banteay Srei. Entry fee $3.
Roluos Group About 13km (8 miles) east of the town center, these three are best
viewed in context of Angkor architecture’s progression, as the forefathers of the more
dynamic of Angkor’s main temples. A visit to these temples is included in the temple
ticket but will cost you a bit extra for transport.
Land Mines Museum You won’t find signs leading you to this seemingly impromptu
museum; Cambodian officials prefer their own rhetoric to that of the owner and curator,
Mr. Akira. The museum itself is just a corrugated-roof area stacked high with disarmed
ordnance and detailed data about the use, effects, and statistics about UXO (unexploded
ordinance) in the country. Most interesting is the small grove out back, an exhibit of how
mines are placed in a real jungle setting. The museum is a call to action for de-mining in
the country. Resist any temptation to volunteer (unless properly trained), but you’re sure
to have a chance to chat with Mr. Akira, peruse his recent book on the subject, and sign
a petition (he’s hoping to achieve NGO status). It’s an interesting visit.
On the main road to the temples, just before the checkpoint and a few miles east. Go by motorbike or
taxi. www.cambodialandminemuseum.org. Entry $1. Daily 7am–5pm.
Tonle Sap Lake Day trips on the Tonle Sap Lake fall into two categories, so be careful
what you’re signing up for. First, avoid the 1 1 ⁄2-hour tours out of the boat ferry jetty,
Chon Khneas. These trips sound like fun, and for just $15 per boat or $10 per person,
you can go with a driver and guide out onto the Tonle Sap. You do glimpse a bit of river
life, the net-twirling fishermen, floating schools donated by Korean NGOs, and the commercial
boat traffic on the Tonle Sap’s main inlet, but once out on the water of the lake
you get a quick ride among ethnic Vietnamese, Khmer houseboats, and fisherman, then
stop at a large tourist-trap barge with crocodile pits, small fish farms, perhaps an aquarium
with some sickly looking turtles, snakes, and fish choking on dirty water. It’s all
about the $1 Coke or souvenirs you might buy. Not worth the trip, so be sure to avoid
rides to just Chong Khneas. The only exception to this is the fine upmarket evening
cruises along this same route through the company Terre Cambodge (see below). The
cost is $20 per person and doesn’t include the good cocktails you might enjoy while
watching the sun dip into the cool lake.
The best day trips are one of the many full-day options that take you to far-flung
floating villages like Kampong Phluk in canoes among low mangrove or to a lush bird
sanctuary, called Preak Toal. Following these routes with the larger tour operators comes
with a hefty price tag for Cambodia, from $80 or so per day, but it’s worth it.
Contact Terre Cambodge (www.terrecambodge.com) or talk with any of the budget
tour operators in town (or your hotel’s tour desk). All services are consolidated through
the same providers so you get the same trip wherever you buy it. Be sure and specify the
exact sights you want to see and any inclusions you’d like, such as lunch. One unique
find is the folks at OSMOSE (www.osmosetonlesap.org), whose main focus is conservation
but who run fine tours as well.
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