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122<br />
SIEM REAP<br />
6<br />
SIEM REAP ATTRACTIONS<br />
are done in a style unique to the high spires <strong>of</strong> Angkor. <strong>The</strong> collection <strong>of</strong> low walls surrounds<br />
low-rise peaked structures <strong>of</strong> deep red sandstone. It is the only building to have<br />
been built with pink sandstone, a high-quality mineral that can withstand tougher elements.<br />
As such, the carvings and bas-reliefs on this temple are some <strong>of</strong> the most intricate,<br />
best preserved carvings you’ll find in Angor. Translated as “<strong>The</strong> Citadel <strong>of</strong> Women,” it<br />
has relief carvings on the squat central buildings and intricate tellings <strong>of</strong> ancient Hindu<br />
tales. Walking through the temple, there’s a real feeling <strong>of</strong> “work in progress.” Some <strong>of</strong><br />
the doorways flanking the central pathway were originally framed in wood and have<br />
weakened with age. As such, the sandstone pediments that once stood on top crashed to<br />
the ground and broke into large pieces. <strong>The</strong>y’ve since been reassembled and lie at the foot<br />
<strong>of</strong> the doorways like some ancient jigsaw puzzle. After the first gate and walkway, you’ll<br />
come to a small entranceway that has a square pedestal with a round piece in the middle<br />
that used to hold a lingam (it was stolen some years ago). Look at the frame <strong>of</strong> the square.<br />
It isn’t smooth and straight, as you would expect, but completely warped and oddly worn<br />
away. <strong>The</strong> Khmer Rouge used to sharpen their knives here. <strong>The</strong> hallmarks here are the<br />
three temples; the middle one is dedicated to Shiva and it is flanked by temples honoring<br />
Vishnu and Brahma. I highly recommend you go with a guide who can explain the finer<br />
details <strong>of</strong> temple inscriptions. Tip: <strong>The</strong> colors are best before 10am and after 2pm, but<br />
there are fewer visitors in the afternoon.<br />
Beng Melea Truly the temple aficionado’s temple, Beng Melea is where to go if<br />
the Angkor temples seem tame, if you are longing to go “Tomb Raider” and clamber<br />
around the crumbling stones <strong>of</strong> a temple that has been reclaimed by the jungle. Squint or<br />
use your imagination and you can feel like Indiana Jones. <strong>The</strong> kids will love it. Beng Melea<br />
is 60km (37 miles) east <strong>of</strong> Siem Reap and <strong>of</strong>ten arranged as a day trip after a stop at the<br />
Roluos Group. <strong>The</strong> road is paved and smooth until just after the Roluos Group where you<br />
turn north at the town <strong>of</strong> Dom Dek, which has a local market that’s worth a stop. From<br />
there, follow a dusty, bumpy road. If you go by motorbike—good luck—wear a krama or<br />
a good mask. <strong>The</strong> temple has three gallery walls and a moat at entry. No one has ever found<br />
the Sanskrit inscription on the temple, but Angkor Wat’s builder, Suryavarman, supposedly<br />
put it up in the 12th century. <strong>The</strong> interior temple area is a big, fun pile <strong>of</strong> rubble. <strong>The</strong> area<br />
has just been cleared <strong>of</strong> mines, and the temple, long a secret enclave for temple buffs, is now<br />
attracting more visitors. <strong>The</strong>re was a film recently produced on the temple site, and the<br />
filmmakers have left their handy ramps, making it a bit easier to get around. <strong>The</strong> east<br />
entrance is closed because <strong>of</strong> the many rocks fallen here, but enter just to the right <strong>of</strong> this<br />
main entrance and look for the relief images <strong>of</strong> the god <strong>of</strong> fire over the first door as you<br />
approach the gallery by the first ramp, then an image <strong>of</strong> a three-headed elephant born <strong>of</strong><br />
the mythical churning <strong>of</strong> the ocean <strong>of</strong> milk Hindu creation legend. A small library is inside<br />
this first gallery area. From here, plunge into the temple center. <strong>The</strong> platform path takes<br />
you through a covered, dark gallery. Between sections, you’ll have to do some clambering<br />
and rock hopping. Warning: Be careful <strong>of</strong> the slippery moss. <strong>The</strong> path exits the opposite<br />
(west) side <strong>of</strong> the temple, and from there you can either wend your way back through,<br />
following a different course to the rocks, or walk around the outside. Get here as early in<br />
the morning as you can and you’ll have the place to yourself. <strong>The</strong> ride is 1 hour by car at a<br />
cost <strong>of</strong> about $50 with a driver, and about 1 1 ⁄2 hours by motorbike, about $20 to $25 with<br />
a driver. North <strong>of</strong> Beng Melea is Koh Ker, another popular <strong>of</strong>f-the-map temple.<br />
Kabal Spean Known as the “River <strong>of</strong> a Thousand Linga” (a lingam is a<br />
phallic symbol representing the Hindu god Shiva), Kabal Spean lay undiscovered by