The Best of Cambodia & Laos

Enter the temple from the west, then make the long and winding walk along the
central axis, exiting through the east gate where you’ll see a massive spoong tree (like a
banyan tree). From here, make your way back through to the west entrance and your
transport.
Ta Prohm The jungle foliage still has its hold on this dynamic temple, which
was left in a ruinous state when early archaeologists freed the temples from the jungle. Ta
Prohm is a favorite for many; in fact, those very ruinous vines appeal to most. As large
around as oak trees, the Khmer Spoong tree is something like a banyan tree, and it’s often
encased in the wandering tendrils of the charay, a thick vine. The powerful spoong and
the charay vines cleave massive stones in two or give way and grow over the top of temple
ramparts. It’s quite dynamic, and there are a few popular photo spots where the collision
of temple and vine are most impressive. Sadly, Ta Prohm was looted quite heavily in
recent years, and many of its stone reliquaries are lost. The temple was originally built in
1186 by Jayavarman VII as a monastery dedicated to the king’s mother and spiritual
teacher. There are 39 towers connected by numerous galleries. The exterior wall of the
compound is 1km×600m ( 1 ⁄2 mile×1,969 ft.), and entrance gates have the classic Jayavarman
face. Most visitors enter from the west gate—and some drivers will come and
pick you up on the other side. A line of small open-air eateries is just outside the main
entrance to Ta Prohm, popular places for a snack or lunch.
Ta Kaeo What’s most interesting about Ta Kaeo is that it was never completed.
Legend has it that the temple was struck by lightning during its construction, and all
work was abandoned at a stage where the main structure was complete, but no adornment
had been added; as such it serves as “Temple Structure 101.” Also unique is the fact
that Ta Kaeo is made of a rich green sandstone (elsewhere it’s a deeper brown or grayish
color). Built in the 10th century by Jayavarman V, the temple was dedicated to Shiva.
The central prang once housed a lingam, and the three levels are all encircled by sandstone
galleries. The climb to the top is very steep, but the view is well worth it.
Banteay Kdei The first temple built by Jayavarman VII in 1181, Banteay Kdei is just
opposite the large Sra Serang Reservoir, a lovely lily pond that is 300×700m (984×2,296
ft.) and surrounded by sandstone steps of Khmer Vintage—the reservoir is a popular place
to watch the sunset gleaming off the water’s surface. Sra Serang once housed a small island
temple where the king liked to meditate—now locals bathe here or steer the water to local
rice farms. The four gates of Banteay Kdei have Jayavarman’s iconic smiling face—like those
at the famed Bayon. The east entrance brings you past an area lined with lions and nagas
along an open terrace once used for performances. There’s a moat around the second interior
gate. The Buddha at the entrance is an original, intact statue, quite unique to the
Angkor compound where so many pieces have been stolen or destroyed (beheaded).
Some portions of the main interior temple area are held together with strong rope and
cable. Look for a small offering house with columns just inside on the right used to gain
merit through gift giving. Also keep your eyes open for the refined Apsara carvings on
the main temple. Exit via the west gate—look for more Jayavarman heads—and walk the
verdant fields around the side of the temple back to the east gate and your wheels, or take
a short walk, through a gauntlet of young hawkers, to the Sra Serang Reservoir.
ATTRACTIONS FARTHER AFIELD
Banteay Srei True temple buffs won’t want to miss this distinct complex. Some
32km (24 miles) north of the main temples, the 10th-century buildings of Banteay Srei
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