The Best of Cambodia & Laos

The Magic Hours at Angkor Wat
The skies over Angkor always put on a show. With just a bit of prior planning,
you can see the dawn or the day’s afterglow framed in temple spires, glowing
off the main wat or reflected in one of the temple reservoirs. Photographers
swoon. Here are a few hints for catching the magic hours at the temples.
The sunrise and sunset views from the upper terraces of Angkor Wat, the
main temple, are some of the best, though it’s a tough climb for some. At dusk,
temple staffers start clearing the main temple area just as the sun dips. Smile;
avoid them; and try to stay for the afterglow.
For the classic photographer’s view of the main temple, Angkor Wat, at sunset—with
the image reflected in a pool—enter the first wall of the temple
compound, walk halfway down the front gangway and then take a right or left
down the set of stairs and out into the field. The view from the water’s edge,
with warm light bouncing off the temple, is stunning. The pond on the right
nearly disappears in dry season, but has natural edges, not stone, and makes
for a nicer shot.
Okay, so it’s a bit crowded, but the views from Phnom Bakeng (Bakeng Hill),
just a short drive past the entrance to Angkor Wat, are stunning at both sunrise
and sunset. It’s a good climb up the hill, and those so inclined can go by elephant
for about $20.
The open area on the eastern side of Banteay Kdei (see map, earlier in this
chapter) looks over one of Angkor’s many reservoirs, Sras Srang, which serves
as a great reflective pool for the rising glow at sunrise. See the “‘Getting High’”
at Angkor” box, below, for other options.
If money is no object, contact Helicopters Cambodia Ltd. at their office
just north of the Old Market at No. 217 (& 012/814-500). For a fee, you can see
the sights from any angle you choose. Be sure to specify your needs and interests
and they can create an itinerary that suits.
More affordable is a ride with Angkor Balloon. Just $15 gets you a 10-minute
ride up to 250m (820 ft.) above the ground. The balloon basket is large, good
for walking around and taking in the view from different sides. The balloon is
controlled from the ground by tether, a very sophisticated contraption brought
to Cambodia by French developers. It’s a bit like an amusement park ride really.
The takeoff is 1km ( 1 ⁄2 mile) west of the main entrance to the temples (you’re
sure to see them from afar throughout the day). Flights start at 5:30am and end
at 6pm, and the prime sunrise and sunset spots fill up quickly. Call them at
& 012/520-810 to book a ride. In the middle of the day, it’s first-come,
first-served.
The Terrace of the Leper King Built by Jayavarman, this section is the northern
half of a long north-south shelf (the Elephant Terrace, below is the southern half) of
what was supposedly a main viewing stage for the king and his entourage to watch
elaborate shows in the open area out front. Approach the terrace from its most northern
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