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118<br />
SIEM REAP<br />
6<br />
SIEM REAP ATTRACTIONS<br />
statue <strong>of</strong> Jayavarman hidden underneath. <strong>The</strong> statue, called Jaya Bot Mohania, is a<br />
seated Jayavarman with a seven-headed naga snake looming over him; it is now on display<br />
at a small temple near the Victory Gate (just east <strong>of</strong> the Bayon).<br />
One <strong>of</strong> the greatest views <strong>of</strong> the many faces <strong>of</strong> the Bayon is from the ground at the<br />
northern end <strong>of</strong> the temples, just before a large snack, refreshment, and shopping area.<br />
Stop here on your way to the Baphuon (reviewed below) by foot.<br />
Baphuon Just north <strong>of</strong> the Bayon is the stalwart form <strong>of</strong> the Baphuon, a temple<br />
mount built in 1066 and an important Khmer capital. Early French archaeologists<br />
sought to restore the crumbling mount, and began to disassemble the temple block by<br />
block, but their efforts were interrupted by war, and it would be some years before<br />
archaeologists would return to find a confused jigsaw puzzle <strong>of</strong> a dismantled temple. <strong>The</strong><br />
plans were lost. Bilateral efforts are underway to solve the puzzle and put the temple back<br />
together, and these ongoing efforts give visitors an idea <strong>of</strong> what original temple construction<br />
might have been like. <strong>The</strong> Baphuon was the last capital in the Angkor period.<br />
<strong>The</strong> east gate <strong>of</strong> the Baphuon is the only remaining part <strong>of</strong> what was once a large<br />
laterite wall. A narrow causeway with moats on either side connects the gate with the<br />
main temple. <strong>The</strong> temple has five levels that are all the same height, which makes the site<br />
more like a pyramid and quite unique among Angkor temples. Note: From the Baphuon<br />
you can make a clockwise loop, first to Vimean Akhar, then to the Terrace <strong>of</strong> the Leper<br />
Kings and the Terrace <strong>of</strong> Elephants (all on foot) before you return to the vendors’ area<br />
and your awaiting chariot to go on to Preah Khan or via the east gate to Ta Prohm.<br />
Pre Rup With its three central spires, Pre Rup looks a bit like a mini Angkor Wat.<br />
Prerup was built by King Rajeindravarmen II in 961 and was dedicated to Shiva. <strong>The</strong><br />
best views are from the Hindu temple’s south side. It is made <strong>of</strong> gray sandstone, which is<br />
a less durable material than the pink sandstone <strong>of</strong> Banteay Srei. As such, time and<br />
weather have had its way with the temple and many <strong>of</strong> the intricate carvings and detail<br />
have been worn away by rain and erosion. It’s a crumbling edifice but still completely<br />
awesome in size and structure. Plants have begun to grow on the central towers and you<br />
can see their bright green leaves working their way through the gray stone. You’ll be<br />
scrambling over the fallen rock and debris near the bottom <strong>of</strong> the temple and you still<br />
feel like a humble, insignificant mortal. Climb to the top <strong>of</strong> the temple and look west;<br />
on a clear day, you can see Angkor Wat’s spires (roughly 12km/71 ⁄2 miles away) peeking<br />
out over the treetops.<br />
Vimean Akhar Continuing north <strong>of</strong> the Baphuon—and still within large Angkor<br />
Thom—you reach the “Palace <strong>of</strong> Air,” or Vimean Akhar, which was a royal palace built<br />
by three successive kings, Jayavarman II and V as well as Suryavarman I, between 944<br />
and 1045. This Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva is some 12m (40 ft.) high with three<br />
levels; each <strong>of</strong> the three levels represents one <strong>of</strong> the kings who helped build it. Each side<br />
has steep steps and the shallow moat is full in rainy season. <strong>The</strong> top <strong>of</strong> the temple is a<br />
narrow pillared gallery. <strong>The</strong> steep climb is best attempted to the left (west) when<br />
approaching from the Baphuon (there’s a handrail). Have a drink or a fresh coconut in a<br />
shaded area at the bottom <strong>of</strong> the other side.<br />
Adjacent to the Baphuon are two large ponds: the biggest is 125m (410 ft.) long and<br />
was where the king himself bathed; the smaller ponds were for the king’s courtiers.<br />
Note: <strong>The</strong> eastern entrance <strong>of</strong> the Vimean Akhar has a Sanskrit inscription with a brief<br />
history <strong>of</strong> construction and orientation. Most are in museums and this is one <strong>of</strong> just a<br />
few that you can still find on the temple site.