The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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SIEM REAP
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SIEM REAP ATTRACTIONS
statue of Jayavarman hidden underneath. The statue, called Jaya Bot Mohania, is a
seated Jayavarman with a seven-headed naga snake looming over him; it is now on display
at a small temple near the Victory Gate (just east of the Bayon).
One of the greatest views of the many faces of the Bayon is from the ground at the
northern end of the temples, just before a large snack, refreshment, and shopping area.
Stop here on your way to the Baphuon (reviewed below) by foot.
Baphuon Just north of the Bayon is the stalwart form of the Baphuon, a temple
mount built in 1066 and an important Khmer capital. Early French archaeologists
sought to restore the crumbling mount, and began to disassemble the temple block by
block, but their efforts were interrupted by war, and it would be some years before
archaeologists would return to find a confused jigsaw puzzle of a dismantled temple. The
plans were lost. Bilateral efforts are underway to solve the puzzle and put the temple back
together, and these ongoing efforts give visitors an idea of what original temple construction
might have been like. The Baphuon was the last capital in the Angkor period.
The east gate of the Baphuon is the only remaining part of what was once a large
laterite wall. A narrow causeway with moats on either side connects the gate with the
main temple. The temple has five levels that are all the same height, which makes the site
more like a pyramid and quite unique among Angkor temples. Note: From the Baphuon
you can make a clockwise loop, first to Vimean Akhar, then to the Terrace of the Leper
Kings and the Terrace of Elephants (all on foot) before you return to the vendors’ area
and your awaiting chariot to go on to Preah Khan or via the east gate to Ta Prohm.
Pre Rup With its three central spires, Pre Rup looks a bit like a mini Angkor Wat.
Prerup was built by King Rajeindravarmen II in 961 and was dedicated to Shiva. The
best views are from the Hindu temple’s south side. It is made of gray sandstone, which is
a less durable material than the pink sandstone of Banteay Srei. As such, time and
weather have had its way with the temple and many of the intricate carvings and detail
have been worn away by rain and erosion. It’s a crumbling edifice but still completely
awesome in size and structure. Plants have begun to grow on the central towers and you
can see their bright green leaves working their way through the gray stone. You’ll be
scrambling over the fallen rock and debris near the bottom of the temple and you still
feel like a humble, insignificant mortal. Climb to the top of the temple and look west;
on a clear day, you can see Angkor Wat’s spires (roughly 12km/71 ⁄2 miles away) peeking
out over the treetops.
Vimean Akhar Continuing north of the Baphuon—and still within large Angkor
Thom—you reach the “Palace of Air,” or Vimean Akhar, which was a royal palace built
by three successive kings, Jayavarman II and V as well as Suryavarman I, between 944
and 1045. This Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva is some 12m (40 ft.) high with three
levels; each of the three levels represents one of the kings who helped build it. Each side
has steep steps and the shallow moat is full in rainy season. The top of the temple is a
narrow pillared gallery. The steep climb is best attempted to the left (west) when
approaching from the Baphuon (there’s a handrail). Have a drink or a fresh coconut in a
shaded area at the bottom of the other side.
Adjacent to the Baphuon are two large ponds: the biggest is 125m (410 ft.) long and
was where the king himself bathed; the smaller ponds were for the king’s courtiers.
Note: The eastern entrance of the Vimean Akhar has a Sanskrit inscription with a brief
history of construction and orientation. Most are in museums and this is one of just a
few that you can still find on the temple site.