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114 SIEM REAP 6 SIEM REAP ATTRACTIONS Built under the reign of Suryavarman II in the 12th century, this temple, along with Bayon and Baphuon, is the very pinnacle of Khmer architecture. From base to tip of the highest tower, it’s 213m (669 ft.) of awe-inspiring stone in the definitive, elaborate Khmer style. The temple moat is 1.5×1.3km (1× 3 ⁄4 mile) around, and some 90m (295 ft.) wide, crossed by a causeway with long naga statues on each side as railings from the west; in fact Angkor is the only temple entered from the west (all others from the east). Angkor Wat is also the only Angkor monument that is a mausoleum—all others are temples or monasteries. Angkor’s main temple is dedicated to Vishnu. Approaching the temple, you’ll first cross the causeway over the main moat—restored in the 1960s by the French. Enter the compound across the first gallery, the Majestic Gallery, with some carvings and Brahma statuary, then pass into the large, grassy courtyard housing the main temple. This next causeway is flanked on either side by two small library buildings as well as two small ponds. (Hint: Hop off the causeway and take a photo of the temple reflected in the pond on the right.) An outdoor staircase sits at the approach to the main temple. From there, you’ll enter the richest area of statuary, galleries, and bas-reliefs. The famous bas-reliefs encircling the temple on the first level (south side) depict the mythical “Churning of the Ocean of Milk,” a legend in which Hindu deities stir vast oceans in order to extract the elixir of immortality. This churning produced the apsaras, Hindu celestial dancers, who can be seen on many temples. Other reliefs surrounding the base of the main temple show Khmer wars, and corner towers depict Hindu fables. The most measured and studied of all the sites, Angkor Wat is the subject of much speculation: It’s thought to represent Mount Meru, home of Hindu gods and a land of creation and destruction. Researchers measuring the site in hat, ancient Khmer units of measure, deduce that the symmetry of the building corresponds with the timeline of the Hindu ages, as a map or calendar of the universe, if you will. The approach from the main road crosses the baray (reservoir) and is an ascending progression of three levels to the inner sanctum. The T-shirt hawkers are relentless, and the tricky steps and temple height are a challenge to those with vertigo, but the short trip is awe-inspiring and the views from the top are breathtaking. Note: There’s a guide rope on the southern face (and often a long line up). It’s a fair walk up to the second level, a flat, open space that overlooks the main temple square, the famed Angkor prangs or parapets on each corner. From here, it’s a steep climb (use the staircase with roped handrail on the south side of the temple) up to the third and final level (at time of writing, this level was closed to visitors). There are four large courtyards surrounded by galleries, and balcony overlooks from the base of the prangs at each corner. These high perches are great spots for watching the sunset over Bakeng Hill (though lately, the guards try to get more people down earlier and earlier). Angkor Wat is the first temple you pass when entering the temple complex, but depending on your guide, you might save it for the evening and head directly to nearby Angkor Thom. Bakeng Hill Just past Angkor Wat, Bakeng Hill is meant to resemble Mount Meru, the center of the earth in the Hindu cosmology. The hill makes a great spot for sunrise or sunset viewing and gets crowded like a mosh pit in high season. The hike up is a good way to limber up and break a sweat pre-dawn, but the crumbled steps and slippery mud are a bit much for some. Consider taking the trek in style high up on an elephant’s back in a houda. Elephants for hire start at about $20 and wait at the bottom of the hill.
0 1st Level Vishnu’s victory over Bana ESPLANADE Battle of the Gods Vishnu conquered demons 2nd Level 3rd Level Tower 3rd Enclosing Wall Sanctuary Churning of the ocean of milk Tower Tower 1st Enclosing Wall Tower Library Library Library Gallery of a Gallery of a Library Thousand Buddhas Thousand Buddhas Battle of Lanka Battle of Kurukshetra Cruciform Terrace Retaining Wall Retaining Wall Pool Pool Library Library 300 ft 0 100 m 2nd Enclosing Wall Tower CCAUSEWAY A U S E W AY 4th Enclosing Wall Statue of Vishnu 4th Enclosing Wall MOAT MOAT Angkor Wat Heaven and hell gallery ESPLANADE Suryarvarman II army 115 SIEM REAP 6 SIEM REAP ATTRACTIONS
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Cambodia & Laos
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Cambodia & Laos by Daniel White 1st
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CONTENTS LIST OF MAPS vii 1 THE BES
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8 SOUTHERN CAMBODIA 152 1 Sihanoukv
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LIST OF MAPS The Best Small Towns,
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HOW TO CONTACT US In researching th
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The Best of Cambodia & Laos The cou
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the world’s most rewarding journe
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MYANMAR Muang Sing (BURMA) Luang Na
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7 BEST TEMPLES & WATS • Angkor Wa
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Cambodia in Depth If ever a country
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Phnom Penh (see p. 83 for more on t
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was Mahayana, not part of the Thera
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keep Cambodia neutral in the confli
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Rouge leaders will be prompted to s
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As Hun Sen darkly quipped years lat
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place largely without violence, Cam
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high-rise residential developments
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5 CAMBODIA IN POPULAR CULTURE RECOM
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Wherever you are, stick only to bot
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Planning Your Trip to Cambodia With
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Bonn Pchum Ben. During this period,
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3 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND GE
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spend the night in Poipet, but this
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can be cold due to excessive air-co
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Come Armed with Singles We recommen
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the malarial mosquitoes are at thei
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are riding on a motorcycle, keep yo
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cater to travelers with disabilitie
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General Resources for Green Travel
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INTERNET In Cambodia, where you fin
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0 0 50 km 50 mi N Phumi Samraong Pr
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2 THE BEST OF LAOS IN 1 WEEK Althou
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Pak Lai Gulf of Thailand Mekong Mek
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Sao Market to shop for special Lao
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Founded in the mid-14th century by
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The Tonle Sap: The Heart of a Natio
Page 75 and 76: 2 WHERE TO STAY There is a huge cho
Page 77 and 78: Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
Page 79 and 80: No. 227 St. 19. & 023/222-280. www.
Page 81 and 82: Hotel Scandinavia This relaxed offe
Page 83 and 84: Inexpensive Capitol Guesthouse The
Page 85 and 86: Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
Page 87 and 88: Phnom Penh’s Much-Loved Pachyderm
Page 89 and 90: completely punitive. They also have
Page 91 and 92: Le Jardin Café WESTERN As its name
Page 93 and 94: ao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217)
Page 95 and 96: The Khmer Rouge on Trial As this bo
Page 97 and 98: SWIMMING & FITNESS Many top hotels
Page 99 and 100: 5 DAY TRIPS OUTSIDE PHNOM PENH OUDO
Page 101 and 102: (& 023/211-534) and carries a simil
Page 103 and 104: The excellent Sovanna Phum Art Asso
Page 105 and 106: The ruins of the ancient city of An
Page 107 and 108: 1 Airport (8 km) Siem Reap Phnom Pe
Page 109 and 110: 10% VAT. Budget travelers are also
Page 111 and 112: Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay
Page 113 and 114: combo and sinks set in unique overs
Page 115 and 116: fan). The courtyard area is a pictu
Page 117 and 118: Mandalay Inn One of the first thing
Page 119 and 120: NIGHTLIFE Angkor What? 28 Dead Fish
Page 121 and 122: Shinta Mani INTERNATIONAL Shinta Ma
Page 123 and 124: Taj Mahal NORTHERN INDIAN It has be
Page 125: Some Guidelines When Visiting Angko
Page 129 and 130: To To To Banteay Banteay Banteay Sr
Page 131 and 132: The Magic Hours at Angkor Wat The s
Page 133 and 134: Enter the temple from the west, the
Page 135 and 136: Westerners until a French researche
Page 137 and 138: Body Tune Spa, in the very heart of
Page 139 and 140: Colors of Cambodia Here’s a fun o
Page 141 and 142: A Dance for the Divine The royal cl
Page 143 and 144: APSARA DANCE Having spent the day l
Page 145 and 146: Battambang & Northern Cambodia From
Page 147 and 148: 0 0 0.25 km 2 DINING Bus Stop 10 Th
Page 149 and 150: either a car with a driver or a mot
Page 151 and 152: pleasant indeed with casual but sma
Page 153 and 154: its relaxed, open-air charm. The ty
Page 155 and 156: into a trip back on a small metal-a
Page 157 and 158: a mix of traditional Khmer ballads
Page 159 and 160: The Spiders of Skuon In the town of
Page 161 and 162: $10 but can be more during high sea
Page 163 and 164: all over by 10am. The Reclining Bud
Page 165 and 166: 1 3 4 2 5 7 6 8 10 8 11 12 9 15 14
Page 167 and 168: Ochheuteal Beach to Victory Beach c
Page 169 and 170: Beach Road Hotel Covering both the
Page 171 and 172: Koh Rong Beach. & 016/214-211. www.
Page 173 and 174: Snakehouse INTERNATIONAL Here’s a
Page 175 and 176: Cooking Courses If you want to lear
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ACCOMMODATIONS Champa Koh Kong Gues
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can take a motorcycle or car into t
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New Bridge Kampot 1 2 Prek Kampong
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also a more straightforward house w
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and a turnoff to a small waterfall
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Information Post Office 3 2 Kep Bea
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WHERE TO DINE All the hotels and gu
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part in Lao culture; arguments are
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forces captured and sacked Xiang Do
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1950, an offshoot of pro-Vietminh I
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CCHINA H I N A MYANMAR Muang Sing (
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visited places such as Savannakhet,
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There have been some tensions along
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Water in restaurants is safe to dri
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LAOS CALENDAR OF EVENTS For an exha
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2 ENTRY REQUIREMENTS PASSPORTS A pa
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A simple river crossing connects Th
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will help your blood pressure to pl
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able to organize a car and driver f
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Although levels of HIV/AIDS are, at
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Prabang and Vientiane are geared mo
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monsoon forest, diverse wildlife po
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Telephone Dialing at a Glance • T
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also plenty of other shops and bout
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expensive. You will see them lined
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1/4 mile 0 L A O S L A O S 0 0.25 k
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MODERATE Asian Pavilion Hotel Forme
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Riverine Hotel This old colonial vi
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37-01 Nokeo Khoummane Rd. & 021/262
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1/4 mile 0 26 0 0.25 km Khoua Khoua
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favorites from home. They have subm
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Vientiane’s Street Fare The busy
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35 1/4 mile 0 4 34 0 0.25 km Khoua
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Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan Wat Ong Teu i
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start start 11 Khoua Khoua Luang Lu
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Organized Tours Most hotels, guesth
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Dokkhoun Handicrafts Mainly special
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has closed, going on until 2am in p
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ead in cafes and bakeries. You will
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GETTING THERE Vang Vieng is a smoot
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18 17 16 1 Bus Station Hospital Pos
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Vang Vieng Orchid This is an excell
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20m (66 ft.) from the main junction
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The Amazing Mountain Journey to Lua
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20 L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vi
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The Fate of the King Savang or Sisa
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Lao Speedboat Risks Alternatively y
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wood floors, and fashionable room d
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lush rice paddies and picturesque h
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great riverside location, although
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L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vient
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Lao-style crème brûlée, a custar
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75/76 Ban Xieng Mouane. & 071/212-2
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0 0 0.25 km 27 Old Stadium Phou Pho
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where a shrine of the royal spirit
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Make Merit Picture Sunday Mass at a
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during the reign of Sam Saen Thai.
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Its name translates as “golden ci
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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Mount Phousi Wat Pua
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SHOPPING The central area of Luang
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Banks & Currency Exchange The Bank
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If you go by road it takes about 3
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with Western-style toilets and hot
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6 PAKBENG If you are taking the slo
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next to the post office. The airpor
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containing an oxygen generator in c
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Central Laos is rarely at the top o
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L A O S Vientiane Savannakhet 4 3 S
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Dinosaurs in Laos Quite strangely,
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ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Riveria 1 Inth
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Souksomboun Hotel This hotel is sim
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Southern Laos Southern Laos is ofte
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DINING Delta Coffee Shop and Restau
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Champasak Palace Hotel This hotel w
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More Choice Eats in Pakse There are
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WHERE TO STAY & DINE In Champasak,
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(snake) Kaliya, the god Indra ridin
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Getting There Boats leave Ban Nakas
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Fast Facts 1 FAST FACTS: CAMBODIA A
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There is no Canadian Embassy in Lao
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Khmer & Lao Glossary 1 THE KHMER LA
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HOTEL English Khmer Do you have any
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English Lao Call a doctor Toh-ha ta
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GENERAL INDEX AARP, 43, 204 Accommo
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Food stores and markets, Vientiane,
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Pak Ou Caves, 280 Pakse, 307-314 Pa
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Tham Chang (near Vang Vieng), 250 T
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Pavillon Indochine (Siem Reap), 102
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The Red Piano (Siem Reap), 108 Red
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MYANMAR MMYANMAR Y A N M A R (BURMA
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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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