The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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SIEM REAP
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SIEM REAP ATTRACTIONS
Built under the reign of Suryavarman II in the 12th century, this temple, along with
Bayon and Baphuon, is the very pinnacle of Khmer architecture. From base to tip of the
highest tower, it’s 213m (669 ft.) of awe-inspiring stone in the definitive, elaborate
Khmer style. The temple moat is 1.5×1.3km (1× 3 ⁄4 mile) around, and some 90m (295 ft.)
wide, crossed by a causeway with long naga statues on each side as railings from the west;
in fact Angkor is the only temple entered from the west (all others from the east). Angkor
Wat is also the only Angkor monument that is a mausoleum—all others are temples or
monasteries. Angkor’s main temple is dedicated to Vishnu.
Approaching the temple, you’ll first cross the causeway over the main moat—restored
in the 1960s by the French. Enter the compound across the first gallery, the Majestic
Gallery, with some carvings and Brahma statuary, then pass into the large, grassy courtyard
housing the main temple. This next causeway is flanked on either side by two small
library buildings as well as two small ponds. (Hint: Hop off the causeway and take a
photo of the temple reflected in the pond on the right.)
An outdoor staircase sits at the approach to the main temple. From there, you’ll enter
the richest area of statuary, galleries, and bas-reliefs. The famous bas-reliefs encircling the
temple on the first level (south side) depict the mythical “Churning of the Ocean of
Milk,” a legend in which Hindu deities stir vast oceans in order to extract the elixir of
immortality. This churning produced the apsaras, Hindu celestial dancers, who can be
seen on many temples. Other reliefs surrounding the base of the main temple show
Khmer wars, and corner towers depict Hindu fables.
The most measured and studied of all the sites, Angkor Wat is the subject of much
speculation: It’s thought to represent Mount Meru, home of Hindu gods and a land of
creation and destruction. Researchers measuring the site in hat, ancient Khmer units of
measure, deduce that the symmetry of the building corresponds with the timeline of the
Hindu ages, as a map or calendar of the universe, if you will. The approach from the
main road crosses the baray (reservoir) and is an ascending progression of three levels to
the inner sanctum. The T-shirt hawkers are relentless, and the tricky steps and temple
height are a challenge to those with vertigo, but the short trip is awe-inspiring and the
views from the top are breathtaking. Note: There’s a guide rope on the southern face (and
often a long line up).
It’s a fair walk up to the second level, a flat, open space that overlooks the main temple
square, the famed Angkor prangs or parapets on each corner. From here, it’s a steep climb
(use the staircase with roped handrail on the south side of the temple) up to the third
and final level (at time of writing, this level was closed to visitors). There are four large
courtyards surrounded by galleries, and balcony overlooks from the base of the prangs at
each corner. These high perches are great spots for watching the sunset over Bakeng Hill
(though lately, the guards try to get more people down earlier and earlier).
Angkor Wat is the first temple you pass when entering the temple complex, but
depending on your guide, you might save it for the evening and head directly to nearby
Angkor Thom.
Bakeng Hill Just past Angkor Wat, Bakeng Hill is meant to resemble Mount
Meru, the center of the earth in the Hindu cosmology. The hill makes a great spot for
sunrise or sunset viewing and gets crowded like a mosh pit in high season. The hike up
is a good way to limber up and break a sweat pre-dawn, but the crumbled steps and slippery
mud are a bit much for some. Consider taking the trek in style high up on an elephant’s
back in a houda. Elephants for hire start at about $20 and wait at the bottom of
the hill.