The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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SIEM REAP
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SIEM REAP ATTRACTIONS
with Japanese carp. There are detailed descriptions of all plants and some individual butterflies.
They serve Khmer and international cuisine. Vegetarians will also enjoy an
extensive selection here.
Just across the Siem Reap River north of the Old Market. Main courses $3–$10. Entrance costs $2. No
credit cards. Daily 8am–5pm.
DINING AT THE TEMPLES
Across the busy parking lot closest to Angkor Wat, you’re sure to spot the snazzy Angkor
Café (& 063/380-300). This little gallery and souvenir shop serves, for a mint by
Khmer standards, good coffee, tea, and sandwiches, all of which is provided by the folks
at Blue Pumpkin (see “Snacks & Cafes,” above). It’s the best thing going on the Angkor
compound, and, apart from the good food, the building is air-conditioned, great for a
break at midday. Don’t miss their attached boutique, with high-end silver and stone
reproductions of the temples as well as silk and other souvenirs. Open daily from 8am to
5:30pm. No credit cards.
Among all the major temples, you’ll see lots of small, thatch-roofed eateries, and all
will implore you to enter. The competition means that you have more leverage when
haggling: “Are you sure this Coke is $2? Someone over there said it was . . .” You get the
picture. You’ll be swarmed by vendors when you approach these restaurants. Just pick one
quickly and the rest will split. Prices are slightly inflated, but it’s a tourist sight and
people need to make a living (and probably have to pay some heavy kickbacks). A few
bucks will get you fried rice, noodles, or vegetables. Most of these places have shaded
hammock areas out back (mostly for drivers, but a good place to rest) and basic toilets.
Carrying your own antiseptic hand sanitizer is a good idea.
4 SIEM REAP ATTRACTIONS
Angkor Wat is one of the most astonishing structures built by humans. The temple
complex covers 97 sq. km (60 sq. miles) and requires at least a few busy days to get
around the major sights thoroughly. Everyone has their favorite, but there are some
generally recognized highlights that you will not want to miss. Be sure to plan carefully
and catch a sunrise or sunset from one of the more prime spots; it’s a photographer’s
dream. Note: The temples are magnificent themselves, and days spent clambering around
the temples are inherently interesting, but be careful not to come away from a visit to
ancient Angkor with a memory of an oversize rock collection or jungle gym. There’s
much to learn about Buddhism, Hinduism, architecture, and Khmer history; it’s useful
to hire a well-informed guide or join a tour group. There are also subtleties to temple
touring, and a good guide is your best chance to beat the crowd and catch the intricacies
or be in the right place for the magic moments of the day. Contact any hotel front desk
or the tour agencies listed above. Hiring a guide for 1 day costs $20.
THE TEMPLES
Entrance fees for Angkor Wat are as follows: A 1-day ticket is $20, a 3-day ticket is $40,
and a 1-week ticket is $60. The tickets were recently restructured, extending the validity
of 3-day passes to 1 week instead of 3 consecutive days. Similarly, 1-week passes are now
valid for 1 month. Tickets are good for all sights within the main temple compound, as
well as Banteay Srei, to the north, and the outlying temples of the Roluos Group. Other