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Taj Mahal NORTHERN INDIAN It has become almost obligatory where<br />
young tourists gather to have an Indian restaurant be the flame for the travel-weary and<br />
empty-bellied moths, and Taj Mahal is in fact a bright light. It serves a range <strong>of</strong> northern<br />
Indian cuisine—from heaping talis with curries, lentils, and rice to delicious tandoori,<br />
fiery curries (unless otherwise specified), and good nan breads to sop it all up, plus beer<br />
to wash it down. Cozy and clean Taj Mahal is an old Siem Reap standby and packs ’em<br />
in nightly. Seating is best at street-side as you face the north end <strong>of</strong> the market with its<br />
many, busy street stalls. Ask for your samosa cooked to order and you’ll be bowled over.<br />
Everything is good.<br />
North Old Market. & 063/963-353. Main courses $1.50–$4.50. No credit cards. Daily 8am–11pm.<br />
Tell Restaurant GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL Tell Restaurant serves hearty<br />
German fare, catering to the many expats and travelers longing for a bit <strong>of</strong> home (mostly a<br />
German and Scandinavian home). Savory entrees like goulash and Vienna schnitzel, German<br />
sausages, cordon bleu, strogan<strong>of</strong>f, great steaks, and a signature raclette special or enormous<br />
cheese fondue (priced at $27 and expected to be shared by two or more) are quite<br />
impressive. You walk away with a bit <strong>of</strong> a heavy belly into the steamy Khmer evening, but<br />
after a day touring the temples (and usually another one planned), a hearty meal might be<br />
just the ticket. <strong>The</strong>y also have a whole roster <strong>of</strong> good salads and lighter fare, from Mexican<br />
to Indian and Italian, as well as good Khmer entrees. <strong>The</strong> menu reads like one from a U.S.<br />
diner, with just about everything you can imagine. Don’t miss the choice <strong>of</strong> “Hangover<br />
Breakfasts,” comprised <strong>of</strong> a shot and a beer and a pile <strong>of</strong> good fried food, great after sampling<br />
the many and exotic cocktails available. <strong>The</strong> restaurant is just a busy storefront on<br />
central Sivatha Road alongside the likes <strong>of</strong> Dead Fish Tower, a popular bar, and lots <strong>of</strong> small<br />
storefronts catering to backpackers, but Tell is a real standout.<br />
No. 374 Sivatha Rd. (200m/656 ft. north <strong>of</strong> the Old Market). & 063/963-289. Main courses $3–$9. V. Daily<br />
10am–2pm and 5:30–10pm.<br />
Viroth’s Restaurant KHMER Like its sister hotel two streets down (p. 103),<br />
Viroth’s Restaurant boasts a sleek and stylish interior. <strong>The</strong> French and Khmer were the<br />
original owners <strong>of</strong> popular Angkor Café (see “Dining at the Temples” below). Unlike the<br />
hotel, which is still a secret among those in the know, the restaurant is well known and<br />
much loved. <strong>The</strong> food is traditional Khmer cuisine and is very tasty. <strong>The</strong> amok fish is a<br />
perfect blend <strong>of</strong> coconut milk and lemon grass and, unlike at other restaurants, the fish<br />
is completely deboned. <strong>The</strong> spacious dining area is on a raised wooden platform and is<br />
flanked on one side by a wall <strong>of</strong> bamboo rods. Ceiling and floor fans keep a cool breeze<br />
going and send ripples through the strips <strong>of</strong> sheer saffron sheets suspended from the ceiling<br />
and hanging between tables.<br />
246 Wat Bo St. (behind La Résidence Hotel). & 063/760-774. Main courses $3.30–$7. MC, V. Daily<br />
10:30am–2pm and 5:30–10pm.<br />
SNACKS & CAFES<br />
Blue Pumpkin This stylish, all-white cafe is a longtime local favorite, serving great<br />
pastries, c<strong>of</strong>fee, and entrees like burgers and sandwiches. <strong>The</strong>y’ll pack you a lunch for the<br />
temples, too. Wi-Fi access is available. Located at the northeast end <strong>of</strong> the Old Market,<br />
it’s next door to Kokoon, a fine shop for trinkets and souvenirs.<br />
365 Mondol 1. & 063/963-574. Main courses $1.50–$5. MC, V. Daily 6am–11pm<br />
Butterflies Garden Restaurant Don’t miss this netted enclosure with a butterfly<br />
farm and meticulous menagerie <strong>of</strong> local flora and fauna, including a pond filled<br />
111<br />
SIEM REAP 6<br />
WHERE TO DINE