The Best of Cambodia & Laos

Taj Mahal NORTHERN INDIAN It has become almost obligatory where
young tourists gather to have an Indian restaurant be the flame for the travel-weary and
empty-bellied moths, and Taj Mahal is in fact a bright light. It serves a range of northern
Indian cuisine—from heaping talis with curries, lentils, and rice to delicious tandoori,
fiery curries (unless otherwise specified), and good nan breads to sop it all up, plus beer
to wash it down. Cozy and clean Taj Mahal is an old Siem Reap standby and packs ’em
in nightly. Seating is best at street-side as you face the north end of the market with its
many, busy street stalls. Ask for your samosa cooked to order and you’ll be bowled over.
Everything is good.
North Old Market. & 063/963-353. Main courses $1.50–$4.50. No credit cards. Daily 8am–11pm.
Tell Restaurant GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL Tell Restaurant serves hearty
German fare, catering to the many expats and travelers longing for a bit of home (mostly a
German and Scandinavian home). Savory entrees like goulash and Vienna schnitzel, German
sausages, cordon bleu, stroganoff, great steaks, and a signature raclette special or enormous
cheese fondue (priced at $27 and expected to be shared by two or more) are quite
impressive. You walk away with a bit of a heavy belly into the steamy Khmer evening, but
after a day touring the temples (and usually another one planned), a hearty meal might be
just the ticket. They also have a whole roster of good salads and lighter fare, from Mexican
to Indian and Italian, as well as good Khmer entrees. The menu reads like one from a U.S.
diner, with just about everything you can imagine. Don’t miss the choice of “Hangover
Breakfasts,” comprised of a shot and a beer and a pile of good fried food, great after sampling
the many and exotic cocktails available. The restaurant is just a busy storefront on
central Sivatha Road alongside the likes of Dead Fish Tower, a popular bar, and lots of small
storefronts catering to backpackers, but Tell is a real standout.
No. 374 Sivatha Rd. (200m/656 ft. north of the Old Market). & 063/963-289. Main courses $3–$9. V. Daily
10am–2pm and 5:30–10pm.
Viroth’s Restaurant KHMER Like its sister hotel two streets down (p. 103),
Viroth’s Restaurant boasts a sleek and stylish interior. The French and Khmer were the
original owners of popular Angkor Café (see “Dining at the Temples” below). Unlike the
hotel, which is still a secret among those in the know, the restaurant is well known and
much loved. The food is traditional Khmer cuisine and is very tasty. The amok fish is a
perfect blend of coconut milk and lemon grass and, unlike at other restaurants, the fish
is completely deboned. The spacious dining area is on a raised wooden platform and is
flanked on one side by a wall of bamboo rods. Ceiling and floor fans keep a cool breeze
going and send ripples through the strips of sheer saffron sheets suspended from the ceiling
and hanging between tables.
246 Wat Bo St. (behind La Résidence Hotel). & 063/760-774. Main courses $3.30–$7. MC, V. Daily
10:30am–2pm and 5:30–10pm.
SNACKS & CAFES
Blue Pumpkin This stylish, all-white cafe is a longtime local favorite, serving great
pastries, coffee, and entrees like burgers and sandwiches. They’ll pack you a lunch for the
temples, too. Wi-Fi access is available. Located at the northeast end of the Old Market,
it’s next door to Kokoon, a fine shop for trinkets and souvenirs.
365 Mondol 1. & 063/963-574. Main courses $1.50–$5. MC, V. Daily 6am–11pm
Butterflies Garden Restaurant Don’t miss this netted enclosure with a butterfly
farm and meticulous menagerie of local flora and fauna, including a pond filled
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WHERE TO DINE