The Best of Cambodia & Laos

Shinta Mani INTERNATIONAL Shinta Mani is uniquely refined for Cambodia.
Dining indoors is cool, referring to both the air-conditioning and the decor: darkwood
furnishings against a minimalist backdrop of peach pastel walls and simple,
modern artwork. Outdoors is a small open bar area and a few tables set under a heavy
wooden lattice thatched roof. Candlelight and a single white lotus flower, with its exterior
petals bent into origami shapes, complete the effect. Service is professional, but the
staff seems slightly nervous, often worrying over the details a bit too much, and you
might even catch yourself rooting for them. Prices are high for this part of the world, but
everything that comes out of the kitchen has panache. Elegant presentations on white
china enhance the experience of fine Khmer and Western dishes made with the best of
local ingredients. Popular entrees include a fine beef sirloin, a savory stuffed chicken
breast, and comfort foods like spaghetti and fried rice (which are a bit easier on the
budget). In a town where you can eat for so cheap, Shinta Mani is carving its own niche
and attracting rave reviews from international critics, but the backpackers are kept at bay.
The wine list is exhaustive, the drink list doesn’t stop, and whether dining in the cool,
intimate inside or among the humming cicadas outdoors, this is the place to enjoy a
slow-paced savory meal with good conversation.
Junction of Oum Khum and 14th St. (near the FCC). & 063/761-998. Main courses $8–$20. AE, MC, V.
Daily 6:30am–10:30pm.
INEXPENSIVE
Angkor Palm TRADITIONAL KHMER This gem stands out from the crowd
by a mile. It serves Khmer food at its finest in elegant surroundings that put some of its
more expensive rivals to shame. Light, bright traditional Khmer furnishings and comfortable
rattan chairs in a beautiful colonial villa in a central location set the scene for an
operation that is both professional and elegant. Monsieur Bun Try, the owner, spent
much of his life in Paris and has combined traditional Khmer values with French
panache. The lok lak, a simple and universal Khmer dish of diced beef with a simple
sauce, is superb, coming with the very Khmer pepper and lemon dip one finds in the
simplest of villages. The starters are the size of main courses. The staff is charming and
superb, being attentive without being obsequious. The prices are far lower than pretty
much any of its rivals, leading to a consistently full restaurant with a consistently satisfied
clientele.
Pithnou St. opposite the northern end of the Alley. & 063/761-436. www.angkorpalm.com. Main
courses $3–$6. MC, V. Daily 10am–10pm.
Chivit Thai THAI Authentic Thai is served in this atmospheric street-side restaurant,
with both air-conditioning and outdoor dining. The food is great, the price is low,
and there’s casual floor seating and a rustic charm to the place, quite romantic in candlelight.
Name your favorite Thai dish, and they do it here. The tom yum (sweet, spicy Thai
soup) is excellent, and they have good set menus comprised of many courses that are
much finer than their low price tag.
130 Wat Bo Rd. (across the river from the FCC, near the intersection of Rte. 6 going out of town). & 012/
830-761. Main courses $2.50–$5. No credit cards. Daily 7am–10pm.
Kama Sutra INDIAN This restaurant serves excellent Indian food in the heart of
Pub street. It has covered outdoor seating so dining is informal and there’s the option of
refreshing A/C seating upstairs. The fare is hearty, and the atmosphere is loud and happy.
E161 Pub St. & 063/761-225. Main courses $2.50–$7.50. No credit cards. Daily 11am–late.
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SIEM REAP 6
WHERE TO DINE