The Best of Cambodia & Laos

108
SIEM REAP
6
WHERE TO DINE
Cafe Indochine ASIAN On the north end of the busy central road that leads
to the temples, Cafe Indochine is a cool, old Indochina throwback. Set in an old wooden
building that’s been newly renovated, this little wooden perch is a cool place to watch life
go by on the busy street out front and unwind from a busy day at the temples. The menu
is an eclectic list of Thai, Cambodian, Vietnamese, and French dishes: true Indochina.
Start with some fine, light spring rolls, either fried or fresh. Salads are savory, and they
serve good Thai spicy soups like tom-yam as well as French bouillabaisse. Try a shared set
menu for $9 per person and get a short course in local cuisine such as beef done in savory
lok lak style; fine curries; amok fish; a number of whole-fish dishes; and beef, chicken, or
vegetable stir-fries. Follow up with good ice cream or coffee.
44 Sivatha Rd. & 012/804-952. Main courses $5–$9. AE, MC, V. Daily 10am–3pm and 5–11pm.
FCC Angkor (Foreign Correspondent’s Club) INTERNATIONAL This glowing
white, modern cube would be at home in a nouveau riche California suburb or a
Jacques Tati film, but is a bit jarring canal-side in the center of Siem Reap. The first floor
is boutique shopping and the second floor is an elegant open space with high ceilings.
There’s an Art Deco bar, low lounge chairs at the center, and standard dining space on
the balcony. The main room is flanked on one end by an open kitchen. The FCC is the
town’s runway and holds numerous functions and hosts live music. The menu is the same
as the original FCC in Phnom Penh, with the same dichotomy between the enormity of
the prices and the rather low quality of the food, which includes soups, salads, pasta,
steaks, and wood-fired pizzas. The staff can’t seem to believe they work here, and service
is hot and cold but very friendly. Even if just for a drink, it is worth swinging by at least
once. The first-floor compound continues to expand, and now supports some of the
finest shopping in the city. Also, check out their cool billiards room, which is like a
modernist installation behind glass, or their big-screen television surrounded by large
lounge chairs at poolside.
Pokambor Ave. (next to the Royal Residence and just north of the post office). & 063/760-283. Main
courses $8–$22. AE, MC, V. Daily 7am–midnight.
Madame Butterfly THAI/KHMER Serving the finest authentic Khmer- and
Thai-influenced cuisine in town, the setting is very pleasant and alone makes it worth a
visit. In a converted traditional wooden home, seating is in low rattan chairs, and the decor
is characterized by a tasteful collection of Buddhist and Khmer artifacts. Candlelight
mingles with mellow indirect lighting, and the whole effect is casual and romantic. There
are daily specials, and the menu is heavy on good curries and hot-pot dishes. Try the
poached fish in coconut sauce with sticky rice. The Masaman curry is excellent and the
mchou pous, a chicken-and-shrimp bisque, is rich and tasty. Great for a leisurely evening.
A short ride west on No. 6, airport road. & 016/909-607. Main courses $6–$15. V. Daily 6am–11pm.
The Red Piano INTERNATIONAL Angelina Jolie and cast and crew of the film
Tomb Raider made this atmospheric bar their second home while filming at the temples.
Imported steaks, spaghetti, sandwiches, salads, and international specialties like good
Indian samosas or chicken cordon bleu round out a great menu of familiar fare. Everything
is good, and this place is always hoppin’ late into the evening. Due to popular demand (it’s
sometimes hard to get a seat and they take no reservations), they’ve expanded onto a second
floor and renovations throughout give the place a tidy, upscale charm.
50m (164 ft.) northwest of the Old Market. & 063/963-240. Main courses $4–$6. No credit cards. Daily
7am–midnight.