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108<br />
SIEM REAP<br />
6<br />
WHERE TO DINE<br />
Cafe Indochine ASIAN On the north end <strong>of</strong> the busy central road that leads<br />
to the temples, Cafe Indochine is a cool, old Indochina throwback. Set in an old wooden<br />
building that’s been newly renovated, this little wooden perch is a cool place to watch life<br />
go by on the busy street out front and unwind from a busy day at the temples. <strong>The</strong> menu<br />
is an eclectic list <strong>of</strong> Thai, <strong>Cambodia</strong>n, Vietnamese, and French dishes: true Indochina.<br />
Start with some fine, light spring rolls, either fried or fresh. Salads are savory, and they<br />
serve good Thai spicy soups like tom-yam as well as French bouillabaisse. Try a shared set<br />
menu for $9 per person and get a short course in local cuisine such as beef done in savory<br />
lok lak style; fine curries; amok fish; a number <strong>of</strong> whole-fish dishes; and beef, chicken, or<br />
vegetable stir-fries. Follow up with good ice cream or c<strong>of</strong>fee.<br />
44 Sivatha Rd. & 012/804-952. Main courses $5–$9. AE, MC, V. Daily 10am–3pm and 5–11pm.<br />
FCC Angkor (Foreign Correspondent’s Club) INTERNATIONAL This glowing<br />
white, modern cube would be at home in a nouveau riche California suburb or a<br />
Jacques Tati film, but is a bit jarring canal-side in the center <strong>of</strong> Siem Reap. <strong>The</strong> first floor<br />
is boutique shopping and the second floor is an elegant open space with high ceilings.<br />
<strong>The</strong>re’s an Art Deco bar, low lounge chairs at the center, and standard dining space on<br />
the balcony. <strong>The</strong> main room is flanked on one end by an open kitchen. <strong>The</strong> FCC is the<br />
town’s runway and holds numerous functions and hosts live music. <strong>The</strong> menu is the same<br />
as the original FCC in Phnom Penh, with the same dichotomy between the enormity <strong>of</strong><br />
the prices and the rather low quality <strong>of</strong> the food, which includes soups, salads, pasta,<br />
steaks, and wood-fired pizzas. <strong>The</strong> staff can’t seem to believe they work here, and service<br />
is hot and cold but very friendly. Even if just for a drink, it is worth swinging by at least<br />
once. <strong>The</strong> first-floor compound continues to expand, and now supports some <strong>of</strong> the<br />
finest shopping in the city. Also, check out their cool billiards room, which is like a<br />
modernist installation behind glass, or their big-screen television surrounded by large<br />
lounge chairs at poolside.<br />
Pokambor Ave. (next to the Royal Residence and just north <strong>of</strong> the post <strong>of</strong>fice). & 063/760-283. Main<br />
courses $8–$22. AE, MC, V. Daily 7am–midnight.<br />
Madame Butterfly THAI/KHMER Serving the finest authentic Khmer- and<br />
Thai-influenced cuisine in town, the setting is very pleasant and alone makes it worth a<br />
visit. In a converted traditional wooden home, seating is in low rattan chairs, and the decor<br />
is characterized by a tasteful collection <strong>of</strong> Buddhist and Khmer artifacts. Candlelight<br />
mingles with mellow indirect lighting, and the whole effect is casual and romantic. <strong>The</strong>re<br />
are daily specials, and the menu is heavy on good curries and hot-pot dishes. Try the<br />
poached fish in coconut sauce with sticky rice. <strong>The</strong> Masaman curry is excellent and the<br />
mchou pous, a chicken-and-shrimp bisque, is rich and tasty. Great for a leisurely evening.<br />
A short ride west on No. 6, airport road. & 016/909-607. Main courses $6–$15. V. Daily 6am–11pm.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Red Piano INTERNATIONAL Angelina Jolie and cast and crew <strong>of</strong> the film<br />
Tomb Raider made this atmospheric bar their second home while filming at the temples.<br />
Imported steaks, spaghetti, sandwiches, salads, and international specialties like good<br />
Indian samosas or chicken cordon bleu round out a great menu <strong>of</strong> familiar fare. Everything<br />
is good, and this place is always hoppin’ late into the evening. Due to popular demand (it’s<br />
sometimes hard to get a seat and they take no reservations), they’ve expanded onto a second<br />
floor and renovations throughout give the place a tidy, upscale charm.<br />
50m (164 ft.) northwest <strong>of</strong> the Old Market. & 063/963-240. Main courses $4–$6. No credit cards. Daily<br />
7am–midnight.