The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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FROMMER’S STAR RATINGS, ICONS & ABBREVIATIONS Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use eight feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for: Finds Fun Facts Kids Moments Overrated Tips Value Special finds—those places only insiders know about Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun Best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of Places or experiences not worth your time or money Insider tips—great ways to save time and money Great values—where to get the best deals Warning! Warning—traveler’s advisories are usually in effect The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard TRAVEL RESOURCES AT FROMMERS.COM Frommer’s travel resources don’t end with this guide. Frommer’s website, www.frommers. com, has travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. We update features regularly, giving you access to the most current trip-planning information and the best airfare, lodging, and car-rental bargains. You can also listen to podcasts, connect with other Frommers.com members through our active-reader forums, share your travel photos, read blogs from guidebook editors and fellow travelers, and much more.
The Best of Cambodia & Laos The countries of Cambodia and Laos immediately conjure up many images: ancient temples in the mist; colorfully dressed ethnic hill tribes working terraced rice paddies up steep hillsides; weathered colonial charm; remote river journeys with breathtaking sunsets; religious ceremonies reflecting centuries of cultural complexity; and busy markets, fantastic food, and natural riches. Robustly emerging from an era of conflict, these two countries once again offer those who visit all these things and more. 1 FAVORITE CAMBODIA EXPERIENCES • Contemplating the Bayon: The Bayon in Angkor Thom is simply one of the most enigmatic and remarkable buildings in the world. Huge faces of a godking stare out lazily from the rocky walls. You contemplate them and they contemplate you as they have millions before you. This is a truly mystical place. See p. 116. • Dancing the Ramvong: The Khmers’ traditional dance involves walking around slowly in a circle while making delicate shapes with their hands. If you pass by a wedding or a celebration of any sort, or indeed go to a local disco or dance hall, you will see this dance. You will almost certainly be dragged over to join them. If you find yourself in a rural village, you may see old women doing the dance with no accompaniment at all, as the other villagers hoot with laughter. Join in—it’s great fun. See p. 24. • Enjoying Fresh Coffee and Baguettes by the Tonle Sap: Although imperialism may not be a good thing, the French occupation of Indochina left the region with a legacy of great breakfasts. In Phnom Penh, the riverfront of Sisowath Quay is the busy place to be seen. It is a wonderful venue to enjoy this Gallic legacy while watching the world go by. Head to any other waterfront throughout Laos or Cambodia and the experience will be equally fulfilling. • Haggling in the Market: Psar Toul Tom Poung (p. 87) and many other markets in Cambodia are busy, congested, and packed with everything you can imagine. Actually purchasing something requires the negotiating skills of a UN diplomat. Not too forceful, not too reticent, one has to strike exactly the right balance between bonhomie and confidence in order to secure the right price. If your vendor is grinning from ear to ear as you leave, then you have definitely lost the contest. No matter. If you got it right, you will have enjoyed the experience and be smiling too. • Dolphin Spotting on the Mekong: Up the Mekong in Kratie resides the very rare freshwater Irrawaddy dolphins. They are incredibly shy creatures (this might be partly due to the locals’ past method of catching fish with live grenades). Traumatized as they justifiably may be, they do break the surface of the water every now and then, often in pairs, and there is something very 1
Page 1 and 2: Cambodia & Laos
Page 3 and 4: Cambodia & Laos by Daniel White 1st
Page 5 and 6: CONTENTS LIST OF MAPS vii 1 THE BES
Page 7 and 8: 8 SOUTHERN CAMBODIA 152 1 Sihanoukv
Page 9 and 10: LIST OF MAPS The Best Small Towns,
Page 11: HOW TO CONTACT US In researching th
Page 15 and 16: the world’s most rewarding journe
Page 17 and 18: MYANMAR Muang Sing (BURMA) Luang Na
Page 19 and 20: 7 BEST TEMPLES & WATS • Angkor Wa
Page 21 and 22: Cambodia in Depth If ever a country
Page 23 and 24: Phnom Penh (see p. 83 for more on t
Page 25 and 26: was Mahayana, not part of the Thera
Page 27 and 28: keep Cambodia neutral in the confli
Page 29 and 30: Rouge leaders will be prompted to s
Page 31 and 32: As Hun Sen darkly quipped years lat
Page 33 and 34: place largely without violence, Cam
Page 35 and 36: high-rise residential developments
Page 37 and 38: 5 CAMBODIA IN POPULAR CULTURE RECOM
Page 39 and 40: Wherever you are, stick only to bot
Page 41 and 42: Planning Your Trip to Cambodia With
Page 43 and 44: Bonn Pchum Ben. During this period,
Page 45 and 46: 3 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND GE
Page 47 and 48: spend the night in Poipet, but this
Page 49 and 50: can be cold due to excessive air-co
Page 51 and 52: Come Armed with Singles We recommen
Page 53 and 54: the malarial mosquitoes are at thei
Page 55 and 56: are riding on a motorcycle, keep yo
Page 57 and 58: cater to travelers with disabilitie
Page 59 and 60: General Resources for Green Travel
Page 61 and 62: INTERNET In Cambodia, where you fin
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0 0 50 km 50 mi N Phumi Samraong Pr
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2 THE BEST OF LAOS IN 1 WEEK Althou
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Pak Lai Gulf of Thailand Mekong Mek
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Sao Market to shop for special Lao
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Founded in the mid-14th century by
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The Tonle Sap: The Heart of a Natio
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2 WHERE TO STAY There is a huge cho
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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No. 227 St. 19. & 023/222-280. www.
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Hotel Scandinavia This relaxed offe
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Inexpensive Capitol Guesthouse The
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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Phnom Penh’s Much-Loved Pachyderm
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completely punitive. They also have
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Le Jardin Café WESTERN As its name
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ao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217)
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The Khmer Rouge on Trial As this bo
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SWIMMING & FITNESS Many top hotels
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5 DAY TRIPS OUTSIDE PHNOM PENH OUDO
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(& 023/211-534) and carries a simil
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The excellent Sovanna Phum Art Asso
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The ruins of the ancient city of An
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1 Airport (8 km) Siem Reap Phnom Pe
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10% VAT. Budget travelers are also
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Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay
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combo and sinks set in unique overs
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fan). The courtyard area is a pictu
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Mandalay Inn One of the first thing
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NIGHTLIFE Angkor What? 28 Dead Fish
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Shinta Mani INTERNATIONAL Shinta Ma
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Taj Mahal NORTHERN INDIAN It has be
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Some Guidelines When Visiting Angko
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0 1st Level Vishnu’s victory over
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To To To Banteay Banteay Banteay Sr
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The Magic Hours at Angkor Wat The s
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Enter the temple from the west, the
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Westerners until a French researche
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Body Tune Spa, in the very heart of
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Colors of Cambodia Here’s a fun o
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A Dance for the Divine The royal cl
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APSARA DANCE Having spent the day l
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Battambang & Northern Cambodia From
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0 0 0.25 km 2 DINING Bus Stop 10 Th
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either a car with a driver or a mot
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pleasant indeed with casual but sma
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its relaxed, open-air charm. The ty
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into a trip back on a small metal-a
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a mix of traditional Khmer ballads
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The Spiders of Skuon In the town of
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$10 but can be more during high sea
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all over by 10am. The Reclining Bud
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1 3 4 2 5 7 6 8 10 8 11 12 9 15 14
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Ochheuteal Beach to Victory Beach c
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Beach Road Hotel Covering both the
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Koh Rong Beach. & 016/214-211. www.
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Snakehouse INTERNATIONAL Here’s a
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Cooking Courses If you want to lear
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ACCOMMODATIONS Champa Koh Kong Gues
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can take a motorcycle or car into t
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New Bridge Kampot 1 2 Prek Kampong
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also a more straightforward house w
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and a turnoff to a small waterfall
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Information Post Office 3 2 Kep Bea
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WHERE TO DINE All the hotels and gu
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part in Lao culture; arguments are
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forces captured and sacked Xiang Do
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1950, an offshoot of pro-Vietminh I
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CCHINA H I N A MYANMAR Muang Sing (
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visited places such as Savannakhet,
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There have been some tensions along
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Water in restaurants is safe to dri
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LAOS CALENDAR OF EVENTS For an exha
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2 ENTRY REQUIREMENTS PASSPORTS A pa
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A simple river crossing connects Th
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will help your blood pressure to pl
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able to organize a car and driver f
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Although levels of HIV/AIDS are, at
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Prabang and Vientiane are geared mo
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monsoon forest, diverse wildlife po
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Telephone Dialing at a Glance • T
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also plenty of other shops and bout
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expensive. You will see them lined
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1/4 mile 0 L A O S L A O S 0 0.25 k
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MODERATE Asian Pavilion Hotel Forme
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Riverine Hotel This old colonial vi
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37-01 Nokeo Khoummane Rd. & 021/262
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1/4 mile 0 26 0 0.25 km Khoua Khoua
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favorites from home. They have subm
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Vientiane’s Street Fare The busy
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35 1/4 mile 0 4 34 0 0.25 km Khoua
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Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan Wat Ong Teu i
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start start 11 Khoua Khoua Luang Lu
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Organized Tours Most hotels, guesth
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Dokkhoun Handicrafts Mainly special
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has closed, going on until 2am in p
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ead in cafes and bakeries. You will
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GETTING THERE Vang Vieng is a smoot
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18 17 16 1 Bus Station Hospital Pos
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Vang Vieng Orchid This is an excell
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20m (66 ft.) from the main junction
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The Amazing Mountain Journey to Lua
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20 L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vi
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The Fate of the King Savang or Sisa
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Lao Speedboat Risks Alternatively y
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wood floors, and fashionable room d
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lush rice paddies and picturesque h
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great riverside location, although
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L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vient
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Lao-style crème brûlée, a custar
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75/76 Ban Xieng Mouane. & 071/212-2
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0 0 0.25 km 27 Old Stadium Phou Pho
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where a shrine of the royal spirit
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Make Merit Picture Sunday Mass at a
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during the reign of Sam Saen Thai.
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Its name translates as “golden ci
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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Mount Phousi Wat Pua
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SHOPPING The central area of Luang
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Banks & Currency Exchange The Bank
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If you go by road it takes about 3
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with Western-style toilets and hot
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6 PAKBENG If you are taking the slo
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next to the post office. The airpor
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containing an oxygen generator in c
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Central Laos is rarely at the top o
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L A O S Vientiane Savannakhet 4 3 S
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Dinosaurs in Laos Quite strangely,
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ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Riveria 1 Inth
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Souksomboun Hotel This hotel is sim
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Southern Laos Southern Laos is ofte
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DINING Delta Coffee Shop and Restau
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Champasak Palace Hotel This hotel w
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More Choice Eats in Pakse There are
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WHERE TO STAY & DINE In Champasak,
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(snake) Kaliya, the god Indra ridin
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Getting There Boats leave Ban Nakas
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Fast Facts 1 FAST FACTS: CAMBODIA A
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There is no Canadian Embassy in Lao
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Khmer & Lao Glossary 1 THE KHMER LA
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HOTEL English Khmer Do you have any
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English Lao Call a doctor Toh-ha ta
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GENERAL INDEX AARP, 43, 204 Accommo
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Food stores and markets, Vientiane,
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Pak Ou Caves, 280 Pakse, 307-314 Pa
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Tham Chang (near Vang Vieng), 250 T
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Pavillon Indochine (Siem Reap), 102
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The Red Piano (Siem Reap), 108 Red
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MYANMAR MMYANMAR Y A N M A R (BURMA
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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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