The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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106 SIEM REAP 6 WHERE TO DINE No. 353 Pokambor Ave. & 063/964-774. www.shadowofangkor.com. 35 units. $20 river balcony A/C; $15 double A/C; $8 double fan. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: A/C, TV, fridge. Sun Sengky Guest House This is a no-nonsense clean, bright, and well-run option with secure parking right near Psar Chas on Sivatha Road. There are few frills (just TV, fridge, and air-conditioning) but the rooms are large and new with an outside veranda. The wide, white tiled corridors are certainly not going to win any prizes for subtlety of decoration, but they might win some for light, bright functionality. It is the equivalent of a good motel in Missouri after a long drive across the Midwest. The staff is relaxed but precise and efficient, and the security guard stays wide-awake all night. No. 15 Sivatha Rd. & 063/964-034. 27 units. $10 double fan; $15 double A/C. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: A/C, TV, fridge. 3 WHERE TO DINE Dining in Siem Reap is not a pricey affair. The major hotels all have fine upscale eateries, and there are also several good free-standing spots. The area around the Old Market is a cluster of storefronts, most of little distinction from one another, but all are affordable and laid-back. EXPENSIVE Le Bistrot de Siem Reap FRENCH The atmosphere in this restaurant is wonderfully charming, with old French music playing lightly in the background, light gray walls with the ceiling trim and accent walls painted warm maroon, and black lacquer tables with mixed wooden and rattan chairs. The walls are adorned with old posters advertising voyages to the Far East, but the cuisine is a superb culinary trip to France. The wine list is a work in progress, so ask for a recommendation. They also have a good selection of Cuban cigars. It’s a wonderful, tasty slice of old Indochina. Central Park, P.O. Box 93145, Siem Reap. & 063/760-428. Main courses $15–$26. AE, MC, V. Daily 6:30am–midnight. Meric KHMER This is a slick, trendy restaurant located in the equally stylish Hôtel de la Paix. The Western dishes are stronger than the Khmer menu, though both are constantly changing with the latter often offering off-the-beaten path specials such as mashed snake or frog. The steaks here are the best in town and service is tops. There is outdoor dining around a stately bodhi tree in the central courtyard, or indoor tables near the open kitchen. Sivatha Blvd. & 063/966-000. Main courses $18–$26. AE, MC, V. Daily 6–10:30am, noon–3pm, and 6–10:30pm. MODERATE Abacus ASIAN/FRENCH This restaurant, set in a traditional Cambodian stilt house, is a refreshing change from the eateries along Pub Street. There is a central bar made of volcanic stone and a few tables with rattan chairs on the first floor, underneath the house. Terrace seating upstairs is divided among various small, cozy rooms. The menu is written on a chalkboard and you can choose from a good selection of either Asian rice bowls or Western mains with a couple of side dishes. Oum Khun St. & 012/644-286. Main courses $5–$17. No credit cards. Daily 11am–late.
NIGHTLIFE Angkor What? 28 Dead Fish Tower 13 Funky Munky 22 Laundry 31 Linga 24 Miss Wong 36 Molly Malone’s 21 Temple Club 19 World Lounge 26 Siem Reap 8 Bank Hospital Post Office Phnom Penh 11 10 Sivatha Sivatha Blvd. Blvd. 9 4 Pithnou Pithnou St. St. C A M B O D I A Siem Reap Dining, Shopping & Nightlife Wat Kosararam Street Street 05 05 Nat’l. Nat’l. Route Route 66 Street Street 02 02 Street Street 03 03 Oum Oum Khun Khun St. St. Sivatha Sivatha Blvd. Blvd. Oum Oum Chhay Chhay St. St. Achamean Achamean St. St. 14 13 15 19 29 30 16 The Alley The Alley 18 17 31 32 Wat Preath Prom Rath 28 20 27 33 34 21 22 To Tonle Sap & Boats to Phnom Penh 36 23 26 36 25 35 24 1 8 8 Pub Pub St. St. 3 Siem Reap Hospital Old Old Market Market 2 To the Temples (7 km) ROYAL INDEPENDENCE GARDENS Royal Residence Street Street 14 14 SHOPPING Angkor Night Market 16 Beyond 6 Carnets d’Asie 20 Colors of Cambodia 23 D’s Books 18 Jasmine 6 John McDermott Photography 6 Monument Books 6 New Market 3 Old Market (Psar Chas) 35 Senteurs d’Angkor 34 Tara & Kys Art Gallery 15 Wanderlust 36 5 6 6 Pokamber Pokamber St. St. PROMENADE PROMENADE 37 Siem Siem Reap Reap River River 12 0 Wat Wat Bo Bo Rd. Rd. 1/10 mi 0 0.10 km Wat Po Lanka Bus Station (2.5 km) Wat Bo DINING Abacus 4 Angkor Palm 32 Blue Pumpkin 14 Butterflies Garden Restaurant 37 Café Indochine 9 Chivit Thai 7 FCC Angkor 6 Kama Sutra 25 Khmer Kitchen 33 Le Bistrot de Siem Reap 2 Le Tigre de Papier 27 Madame Butterfly 1 Meric 11 The Red Piano 17 Shinta Mani 5 Soup Dragon 29 The Sugar Palm 8 Taj Mahal 30 Tell Restaurant Ω10 Post office Viroth’s Restaurant 12 7 107 SIEM REAP 6 WHERE TO DINE
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Cambodia & Laos
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Cambodia & Laos by Daniel White 1st
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CONTENTS LIST OF MAPS vii 1 THE BES
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8 SOUTHERN CAMBODIA 152 1 Sihanoukv
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LIST OF MAPS The Best Small Towns,
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HOW TO CONTACT US In researching th
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The Best of Cambodia & Laos The cou
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the world’s most rewarding journe
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MYANMAR Muang Sing (BURMA) Luang Na
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7 BEST TEMPLES & WATS • Angkor Wa
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Cambodia in Depth If ever a country
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Phnom Penh (see p. 83 for more on t
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was Mahayana, not part of the Thera
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keep Cambodia neutral in the confli
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Rouge leaders will be prompted to s
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As Hun Sen darkly quipped years lat
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place largely without violence, Cam
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high-rise residential developments
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5 CAMBODIA IN POPULAR CULTURE RECOM
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Wherever you are, stick only to bot
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Planning Your Trip to Cambodia With
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Bonn Pchum Ben. During this period,
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3 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND GE
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spend the night in Poipet, but this
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can be cold due to excessive air-co
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Come Armed with Singles We recommen
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the malarial mosquitoes are at thei
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are riding on a motorcycle, keep yo
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cater to travelers with disabilitie
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General Resources for Green Travel
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INTERNET In Cambodia, where you fin
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0 0 50 km 50 mi N Phumi Samraong Pr
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2 THE BEST OF LAOS IN 1 WEEK Althou
Page 67 and 68: Pak Lai Gulf of Thailand Mekong Mek
Page 69 and 70: Sao Market to shop for special Lao
Page 71 and 72: Founded in the mid-14th century by
Page 73 and 74: The Tonle Sap: The Heart of a Natio
Page 75 and 76: 2 WHERE TO STAY There is a huge cho
Page 77 and 78: Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
Page 79 and 80: No. 227 St. 19. & 023/222-280. www.
Page 81 and 82: Hotel Scandinavia This relaxed offe
Page 83 and 84: Inexpensive Capitol Guesthouse The
Page 85 and 86: Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
Page 87 and 88: Phnom Penh’s Much-Loved Pachyderm
Page 89 and 90: completely punitive. They also have
Page 91 and 92: Le Jardin Café WESTERN As its name
Page 93 and 94: ao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217)
Page 95 and 96: The Khmer Rouge on Trial As this bo
Page 97 and 98: SWIMMING & FITNESS Many top hotels
Page 99 and 100: 5 DAY TRIPS OUTSIDE PHNOM PENH OUDO
Page 101 and 102: (& 023/211-534) and carries a simil
Page 103 and 104: The excellent Sovanna Phum Art Asso
Page 105 and 106: The ruins of the ancient city of An
Page 107 and 108: 1 Airport (8 km) Siem Reap Phnom Pe
Page 109 and 110: 10% VAT. Budget travelers are also
Page 111 and 112: Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay
Page 113 and 114: combo and sinks set in unique overs
Page 115 and 116: fan). The courtyard area is a pictu
Page 117: Mandalay Inn One of the first thing
Page 121 and 122: Shinta Mani INTERNATIONAL Shinta Ma
Page 123 and 124: Taj Mahal NORTHERN INDIAN It has be
Page 125 and 126: Some Guidelines When Visiting Angko
Page 127 and 128: 0 1st Level Vishnu’s victory over
Page 129 and 130: To To To Banteay Banteay Banteay Sr
Page 131 and 132: The Magic Hours at Angkor Wat The s
Page 133 and 134: Enter the temple from the west, the
Page 135 and 136: Westerners until a French researche
Page 137 and 138: Body Tune Spa, in the very heart of
Page 139 and 140: Colors of Cambodia Here’s a fun o
Page 141 and 142: A Dance for the Divine The royal cl
Page 143 and 144: APSARA DANCE Having spent the day l
Page 145 and 146: Battambang & Northern Cambodia From
Page 147 and 148: 0 0 0.25 km 2 DINING Bus Stop 10 Th
Page 149 and 150: either a car with a driver or a mot
Page 151 and 152: pleasant indeed with casual but sma
Page 153 and 154: its relaxed, open-air charm. The ty
Page 155 and 156: into a trip back on a small metal-a
Page 157 and 158: a mix of traditional Khmer ballads
Page 159 and 160: The Spiders of Skuon In the town of
Page 161 and 162: $10 but can be more during high sea
Page 163 and 164: all over by 10am. The Reclining Bud
Page 165 and 166: 1 3 4 2 5 7 6 8 10 8 11 12 9 15 14
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Beach Road Hotel Covering both the
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Koh Rong Beach. & 016/214-211. www.
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Snakehouse INTERNATIONAL Here’s a
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Cooking Courses If you want to lear
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ACCOMMODATIONS Champa Koh Kong Gues
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can take a motorcycle or car into t
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New Bridge Kampot 1 2 Prek Kampong
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also a more straightforward house w
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and a turnoff to a small waterfall
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Information Post Office 3 2 Kep Bea
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WHERE TO DINE All the hotels and gu
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part in Lao culture; arguments are
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forces captured and sacked Xiang Do
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1950, an offshoot of pro-Vietminh I
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CCHINA H I N A MYANMAR Muang Sing (
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visited places such as Savannakhet,
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There have been some tensions along
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Water in restaurants is safe to dri
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LAOS CALENDAR OF EVENTS For an exha
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2 ENTRY REQUIREMENTS PASSPORTS A pa
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A simple river crossing connects Th
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will help your blood pressure to pl
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able to organize a car and driver f
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Although levels of HIV/AIDS are, at
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Prabang and Vientiane are geared mo
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monsoon forest, diverse wildlife po
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Telephone Dialing at a Glance • T
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also plenty of other shops and bout
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expensive. You will see them lined
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1/4 mile 0 L A O S L A O S 0 0.25 k
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MODERATE Asian Pavilion Hotel Forme
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Riverine Hotel This old colonial vi
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37-01 Nokeo Khoummane Rd. & 021/262
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1/4 mile 0 26 0 0.25 km Khoua Khoua
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favorites from home. They have subm
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Vientiane’s Street Fare The busy
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35 1/4 mile 0 4 34 0 0.25 km Khoua
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Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan Wat Ong Teu i
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start start 11 Khoua Khoua Luang Lu
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Organized Tours Most hotels, guesth
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Dokkhoun Handicrafts Mainly special
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has closed, going on until 2am in p
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ead in cafes and bakeries. You will
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GETTING THERE Vang Vieng is a smoot
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18 17 16 1 Bus Station Hospital Pos
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Vang Vieng Orchid This is an excell
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20m (66 ft.) from the main junction
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The Amazing Mountain Journey to Lua
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20 L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vi
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The Fate of the King Savang or Sisa
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Lao Speedboat Risks Alternatively y
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wood floors, and fashionable room d
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lush rice paddies and picturesque h
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great riverside location, although
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L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vient
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Lao-style crème brûlée, a custar
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75/76 Ban Xieng Mouane. & 071/212-2
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0 0 0.25 km 27 Old Stadium Phou Pho
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where a shrine of the royal spirit
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Make Merit Picture Sunday Mass at a
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during the reign of Sam Saen Thai.
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Its name translates as “golden ci
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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Mount Phousi Wat Pua
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SHOPPING The central area of Luang
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Banks & Currency Exchange The Bank
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If you go by road it takes about 3
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with Western-style toilets and hot
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6 PAKBENG If you are taking the slo
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next to the post office. The airpor
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containing an oxygen generator in c
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Central Laos is rarely at the top o
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L A O S Vientiane Savannakhet 4 3 S
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Dinosaurs in Laos Quite strangely,
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ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Riveria 1 Inth
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Souksomboun Hotel This hotel is sim
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Southern Laos Southern Laos is ofte
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DINING Delta Coffee Shop and Restau
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Champasak Palace Hotel This hotel w
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More Choice Eats in Pakse There are
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WHERE TO STAY & DINE In Champasak,
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(snake) Kaliya, the god Indra ridin
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Getting There Boats leave Ban Nakas
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Fast Facts 1 FAST FACTS: CAMBODIA A
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There is no Canadian Embassy in Lao
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Khmer & Lao Glossary 1 THE KHMER LA
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HOTEL English Khmer Do you have any
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English Lao Call a doctor Toh-ha ta
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GENERAL INDEX AARP, 43, 204 Accommo
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Food stores and markets, Vientiane,
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Pak Ou Caves, 280 Pakse, 307-314 Pa
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Tham Chang (near Vang Vieng), 250 T
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Pavillon Indochine (Siem Reap), 102
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The Red Piano (Siem Reap), 108 Red
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MYANMAR MMYANMAR Y A N M A R (BURMA
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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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