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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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106<br />

SIEM REAP<br />

6<br />

WHERE TO DINE<br />

No. 353 Pokambor Ave. & 063/964-774. www.shadow<strong>of</strong>angkor.com. 35 units. $20 river balcony A/C;<br />

$15 double A/C; $8 double fan. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: A/C, TV, fridge.<br />

Sun Sengky Guest House This is a no-nonsense clean, bright, and well-run option<br />

with secure parking right near Psar Chas on Sivatha Road. <strong>The</strong>re are few frills (just TV,<br />

fridge, and air-conditioning) but the rooms are large and new with an outside veranda.<br />

<strong>The</strong> wide, white tiled corridors are certainly not going to win any prizes for subtlety <strong>of</strong><br />

decoration, but they might win some for light, bright functionality. It is the equivalent<br />

<strong>of</strong> a good motel in Missouri after a long drive across the Midwest. <strong>The</strong> staff is relaxed but<br />

precise and efficient, and the security guard stays wide-awake all night.<br />

No. 15 Sivatha Rd. & 063/964-034. 27 units. $10 double fan; $15 double A/C. Amenities: Restaurant;<br />

bar. In room: A/C, TV, fridge.<br />

3 WHERE TO DINE<br />

Dining in Siem Reap is not a pricey affair. <strong>The</strong> major hotels all have fine upscale eateries,<br />

and there are also several good free-standing spots. <strong>The</strong> area around the Old Market is a<br />

cluster <strong>of</strong> storefronts, most <strong>of</strong> little distinction from one another, but all are affordable<br />

and laid-back.<br />

EXPENSIVE<br />

Le Bistrot de Siem Reap FRENCH <strong>The</strong> atmosphere in this restaurant is<br />

wonderfully charming, with old French music playing lightly in the background, light<br />

gray walls with the ceiling trim and accent walls painted warm maroon, and black lacquer<br />

tables with mixed wooden and rattan chairs. <strong>The</strong> walls are adorned with old posters<br />

advertising voyages to the Far East, but the cuisine is a superb culinary trip to France.<br />

<strong>The</strong> wine list is a work in progress, so ask for a recommendation. <strong>The</strong>y also have a good<br />

selection <strong>of</strong> Cuban cigars. It’s a wonderful, tasty slice <strong>of</strong> old Indochina.<br />

Central Park, P.O. Box 93145, Siem Reap. & 063/760-428. Main courses $15–$26. AE, MC, V. Daily<br />

6:30am–midnight.<br />

Meric KHMER This is a slick, trendy restaurant located in the equally stylish<br />

Hôtel de la Paix. <strong>The</strong> Western dishes are stronger than the Khmer menu, though both<br />

are constantly changing with the latter <strong>of</strong>ten <strong>of</strong>fering <strong>of</strong>f-the-beaten path specials such as<br />

mashed snake or frog. <strong>The</strong> steaks here are the best in town and service is tops. <strong>The</strong>re is<br />

outdoor dining around a stately bodhi tree in the central courtyard, or indoor tables near<br />

the open kitchen.<br />

Sivatha Blvd. & 063/966-000. Main courses $18–$26. AE, MC, V. Daily 6–10:30am, noon–3pm, and<br />

6–10:30pm.<br />

MODERATE<br />

Abacus ASIAN/FRENCH This restaurant, set in a traditional <strong>Cambodia</strong>n stilt<br />

house, is a refreshing change from the eateries along Pub Street. <strong>The</strong>re is a central bar<br />

made <strong>of</strong> volcanic stone and a few tables with rattan chairs on the first floor, underneath<br />

the house. Terrace seating upstairs is divided among various small, cozy rooms. <strong>The</strong><br />

menu is written on a chalkboard and you can choose from a good selection <strong>of</strong> either<br />

Asian rice bowls or Western mains with a couple <strong>of</strong> side dishes.<br />

Oum Khun St. & 012/644-286. Main courses $5–$17. No credit cards. Daily 11am–late.

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