The Best of Cambodia & Laos

Mandalay Inn One of the first things that strikes you on entering this Burmeseowned
guesthouse is the truly remarkable design of the reception telephone. It is antique,
ornate, and beautiful and dates, no doubt, from some time before the first moon landings.
The staff is quite happy to let you use it, making you instantly feel like Marlene
Dietrich. Even discounting that highlight, the Mandalay Inn holds its own within its
category. The rooms are large and decorated in a muted dark-wood style. The staff is
super friendly and the Mandalay accepts credit cards and has fast Wi-Fi, which is unusual
at this end of the range. Don’t pick one of the rooms on the top floor, since this is a
relatively tall building with no elevator. It actually has a gym on the roof. Half the workout
is just getting there up all those stairs.
Psar Krohm St. & 063/761-662. www.mandalayinn.com. 33 units. $8 single fan; $16 single A/C; $10
double fan; $18 double A/C; $15 family room fan; $20 family room A/C. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar.
In room: A/C, TV, fridge.
Passaggio This unpretentious hotel is convenient to downtown and adjoins its own
helpful travel agent, Lolei Travel. Rooms are large and tidy but not much more; the three
floors here are something like a motel in the U.S., complete with tacky art. The one suite
has a bathtub; all others have stand-up showers in bathrooms that are nondescript in
plain tile but are neat and new. The friendly staff can arrange any detail and is eager to
please.
Watdamanak Village (across the river to the east of town). & 063/760-324. Fax 063/760-163. www.
passaggio-hotel.com. 17 units. $35–$45 double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; free airport transfers;
free Internet. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, minibar, Wi-Fi, no phone.
Two Dragons Two Dragons is the best budget spot for picking up good information
on the temples and onward travel and meeting up with other travelers. Run by
American Gordon Sharpless, the guesthouse hosts many young backpackers who read
Gordon’s popular Tales of Asia website (www.talesofasia.com), which is packed with useful
information about the rigors and rip-offs of crossing overland with Thailand regional
travel. Rooms are spartan but very clean and with either air-conditioning or fans. A little
patio area is on the second floor, and free tea and coffee are available 24 hours a day.
Good camaraderie pervades this place. The restaurant serves terrific Thai and Khmer
cuisine. The staff is as friendly as they come and can help arrange good guides to the
temples. It’s an uphill battle with the electricity company, but Gordon is hoping all
rooms will have A/C by the time you read this.
1 Wat Bo Area (on the east side of the river adjacent to the post office). & 063/965-107. http://talesof
asia.com/cambodia-twodragons.htm. 14 units. $17–$27 double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar;
bike rental. In room: A/C, fridge (some rooms), Wi-Fi, no phone.
Shadow of Angkor Guest House Although this little place is far away from
Angkor’s actual shadow, it does have a very pretty locale overlooking the river. It is also set
in a colonial building that has genuine atmosphere. There is also a Shadow of Angkor 2,
which is still a good deal but doesn’t have as good a location as here. Given its price range
and the location of this place, it is not surprising that it is very popular. The colonnaded
restaurant is quiet and relaxing, set back far enough that you will not be bothered by the
hawkers and beggars but still allowing you to contemplate the river in front of you in
peace. The rooms range from very basic (and cramped) to spacious riverfront chic. The
surrounding verandas are a great place to sit and chill after a long day of slogging around
the temples.
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WHERE TO STAY