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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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104<br />

SIEM REAP<br />

6<br />

WHERE TO STAY<br />

City River Hotel Here are simple accommodations near the town center. Popular<br />

with bus tours, the tidy new City River Hotel handles it all with ease. Shiny lacquered<br />

wood in the lobby is as bright and airy as the friendly staff, who snap to in their starchy<br />

uniforms, quite a rarity in this category. As the name suggests, you’re right on the Siem<br />

Reap River, a short walk from the popular Old Market area. Rooms are spartan, with no<br />

real decoration to speak <strong>of</strong>, but are clean and quiet; the bus tours haven’t had at them yet,<br />

so this is one to get to before it falls victim. And the price is reasonable, though there are<br />

few amenities. <strong>The</strong>y do, however, <strong>of</strong>fer guests access to the nearby Bopha Angkor hotel<br />

(p. 102) with use <strong>of</strong> the pool.<br />

No. 0511 Achasva St., Wat Bo, Siem Reap. & 063/763-000. Fax 063/963-963. www.cityriverhotel.com. 60<br />

units. $68–$99 double; $150 suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; limited room service; tour services.<br />

In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, Internet, minibar.<br />

Ei8ht Rooms This is a very unique guesthouse that actually has 12 rooms. This confusion<br />

aside, they have attempted to create a boutique experience at a very affordable<br />

price. <strong>The</strong> two buildings themselves are very standard, large concrete houses. It is what<br />

they have done with them that sets it apart. Muted yellow wash on the walls, modernist<br />

(almost Dalí-like surreal) fixtures and fittings, oddly shaped but pleasing furniture, and<br />

plenty <strong>of</strong> dark silk all contribute to the urban chic atmosphere. <strong>The</strong> staff are exceedingly<br />

trendy and very friendly. Some will appreciate the artsy flow; others will find it twee. We<br />

just liked the fact that it is so different.<br />

138/139 Streoung Village. & 063/969-788. 12 units. $25 double. MC, V. Amenities: Internet. In room:<br />

A/C, TV, fridge, minibar.<br />

Ivy Guesthouse <strong>The</strong> Ivy Guesthouse represents cheerful, basic backpacker territory<br />

at its best—a leafy, willowy cove that looks as though hobbits may appear. <strong>The</strong>re are no<br />

hobbits though, only little pockets <strong>of</strong> budget travelers nestling in the foliage. <strong>The</strong> downstairs<br />

restaurant and surrounding garden is convivial if a little in need <strong>of</strong> an actual gardener.<br />

<strong>The</strong> upstairs tiled balcony is a peaceful place to loll about rustically in hammocks.<br />

<strong>The</strong> basic rooms are very basic indeed and at $6 this should be no surprise. If you start<br />

flinging your cash around wildly and splurge for the $8 room, you will get a wooden<br />

cabinlike space <strong>of</strong> decent size and sleep on a wooden dais. <strong>The</strong>se rooms are strange but<br />

have a lot <strong>of</strong> character. <strong>The</strong> Ivy is a mixed bag, but for the budget-minded it is a good<br />

option as long as you pick your room carefully. <strong>The</strong> staff is smiley and charming.<br />

Just <strong>of</strong>f Pokambor Ave. & 012/602-930. 20 units. $8 fan double. Amenities: Restaurant; bar.<br />

La Noria La Noria is a mellow group <strong>of</strong> bungalows connected by a winding garden<br />

path. <strong>The</strong> guesthouse is near the town center but you wouldn’t know it in the hush <strong>of</strong><br />

this little laid-back spot. Rooms are basic but have nice local touches. Terra-cotta floors,<br />

wooden trim, and small balconies are all neat and tidy, and fine hangings and details like<br />

shadow puppets and authentic Khmer furniture round out a pleasing traditional decor.<br />

Bathrooms have no separate shower consoles, but are small and clean. <strong>The</strong> place is light<br />

on amenities but has a small pool and makes up for any deficiency with gobs <strong>of</strong> charm.<br />

<strong>The</strong> open-air restaurant is a highlight, serving good Khmer and French cuisine. <strong>The</strong> hotel<br />

is affiliated with Krousar Thmey “New Family,” a humanitarian group doing good work,<br />

and there’s a helpful information board about rural travel and humanitarian projects.<br />

Down a small road <strong>of</strong>f Rte. 6, to the northeast <strong>of</strong> town. & 063/964-242. Fax 063/964-243. www.lanoria<br />

angkor.com. 28 units. $39 with fan; $49 with A/C. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; outdoor pool.<br />

In room: A/C (optional).

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