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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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10% VAT. Budget travelers are also amply catered to, but again in high season you may<br />

have to try a few different guesthouses before you find a room.<br />

VERY EXPENSIVE<br />

Amansara Resort Aman means “peace” in Sanskrit, and the suffix “sara” refers<br />

to Khmer Apsara dancers. Set in an old downtown guest villa once owned by King Sihanouk,<br />

the suites <strong>of</strong> the Amansara are each done in a cool contemporary minimalist design<br />

<strong>of</strong> white stucco and dark timber, all surrounded by shade trees. <strong>The</strong> outside world melts<br />

away when you step into this complex. Large bedrooms with adjoining sitting areas lead<br />

to a private outdoor courtyard area. Decor is simple; the bedroom wall has a white stone<br />

bas-relief <strong>of</strong> a banyan tree, while the courtyard has a lotus pond with goldfish. <strong>The</strong> services<br />

at Amansara are unrivaled: private driver and guide, personalized excursions to the<br />

temples and town, high tea with freshly baked cookies and cake, stocked bar, wine and<br />

cheese cellar . . . the list goes on. <strong>The</strong> idea is that Amansara is your home, so you can<br />

wander into the central house and mix yourself a gin and tonic or grab a cookie whenever<br />

you fancy. Unfortunately, the compulsory daily $100 “half-board charge” per person on<br />

top <strong>of</strong> the rather steep room fees feels like you’re being nickel-and-dimed (or Benjamin<br />

Franklin-ed!) here. Still, service is in its own category here and it is a remarkable experience<br />

for Siem Reap.<br />

Road to Angkor, Siem Reap, Kingdom <strong>of</strong> <strong>Cambodia</strong>. & 063/760-333. Fax 063/760-335. www.aman<br />

resorts.com. 24 units. $750 suite; $950 pool suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; complimentary<br />

bikes (with or without guide); library; 2 large outdoor salt pools; luxurious Aman spa; room service. In<br />

room: A/C, TV, bar, fridge, hair dryer.<br />

Angkor Palace Resort and Spa <strong>The</strong> acres and acres <strong>of</strong> open space afforded<br />

by the Angkor Palace Resort’s location—far from the action—wins this one kudos.<br />

Plenty <strong>of</strong> elbowroom, fine gardens, a large pool, and unique tennis courts in a town<br />

where real estate is at a premium are quite unique. This high-end resort <strong>of</strong>fers a friendly<br />

and casual atmosphere, again unique in a town <strong>of</strong> more and more haughty, high-end<br />

addresses. <strong>The</strong> pool area is large, open, and inviting, with bridges connecting walkways;<br />

the spa is tops, and you’ll find extensive services, including a fine Italian restaurant, inhouse<br />

Internet services, and any kind <strong>of</strong> tour services or vehicle rental you might need.<br />

Rooms are enormous and done in dark wood with white silk spreads on the beds and<br />

fine local hangings on the walls. First-floor rooms have direct access to the pool area.<br />

Bathrooms are large, with wood floors connecting the main bedroom to a small dressing<br />

area, then large Italian tile covers the bathroom floor, where rosewood and granite accent<br />

every inch <strong>of</strong> the walls and counter. <strong>The</strong> resort’s spa is just up and running with a host<br />

<strong>of</strong> fine massage and facial treatments, but planning and construction are underway for a<br />

much larger project. You will, however, find a good sauna and steam area as well as a<br />

Jacuzzi at poolside. A top getaway.<br />

No. 555 Phum Kruos, Khum Svay Dang Khum, Siem Reap. & 063/760-511. Fax 063/760-512. www.<br />

angkorpalaceresort.com. 259 units. $350–$400 deluxe; $600 suite; $1,500 villa. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2<br />

restaurants; babysitting; concierge; driving range; health club; outdoor pool; tennis courts; room service;<br />

smoke-free rooms; fine spa facilities. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, Internet, minibar.<br />

Hôtel de la Paix This chic, modern hotel is the height <strong>of</strong> cutting edge. <strong>The</strong><br />

original design—a sort <strong>of</strong> Art Deco meets minimalist meets Khmer decor—is a refreshing<br />

change from the colonial-heavy influence <strong>of</strong> popular hotels like the Raffles or Victoria<br />

(see below). This is not a chain hotel (the private owner is <strong>Cambodia</strong>n-Thai), so the<br />

place has a personal and flamboyant feel to it. Staff is incredibly friendly and appears<br />

97<br />

SIEM REAP 6<br />

WHERE TO STAY

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