The Best of Cambodia & Laos

90
PHNOM PENH
5
NIGHTLIFE
Heart of Darkness
The story of this once wonderful place is one of sad decline, mingled with
greed and violence. In the ’90s, the Heart of Darkness (at 213 Sisowath Quay)
was often described by visiting travel writers (including this one) as the best
bar in the world. It was a hole-in-the-wall haven from a city that was then a dark
and often risky place at nighttime. The music was brilliant, and the mixture of
journalists, NGO workers, diplomats, and mercenaries made for interesting
conversation. It was a dark and funky dive with real atmosphere.
Then it started to change. It got bigger. Then it got even bigger again. Then
they put in a dance floor and the place filled up with prostitutes. By 2001, the
old Heart had ceased to exist and a monster was born. It became a place where
fights and violence became the norm as privileged sons of the ruling elite
arrived with their armed minders. Gunfire became frequent, and someone got
murdered. The bar got security, but the security searched everyone except
these scions of the elite, since moonlighting soldiers are loath to offend their
commanding officers.
Today, the reputation of the old Heart feeds this beast and on weekends it is
packed. You can take your chances, but be aware that it is dangerous and many
embassies put out a warning and forbid their staff to visit.
great. It serves half as a bar and half as a nightclub, and performs both roles well so you
can slip from the dance floor to a table to rest whenever you wish. Daily 4pm–2am. No.
6 St. 110 (corner of Sisowath). & 023/212-302.
Rubies Wine Bar This sophisticated little place is on the corner of Street 240
among the upmarket boutiques. It wouldn’t be out of place in Greenwich Village or the
West End of London. It has an impressive array of wines and spirits and is utterly convivial.
Tues–Sun 5:30pm–late. No. 13 St. 19. & 092/319-769.
RIVER CRUISES
In the evening, you will see a number of boats lit up like Christmas trees chugging slowly
up and down the Tonle Sap. Cruises taking in great views of the Royal Palace, National
Museum, and floating villages along the banks are becoming ever more popular as is
dinner afloat. You can find these boats of many different sizes and quality along the
waterfront between Street 178 and Street 130. They are also at the ferry terminal opposite
Street 104. They have small signs up and may also hail you as you walk by. Costs
start at about $10 an hour. Kanika (& 012/848-802) runs a unique catamaran for parties
and dinner cruises. Proceeds go to Seametrey NGO projects. Experience Mekong
Boat (& 012/432-456; www.cambodiabyboat.com) offers tours of various sorts, including
a look at how the boats are built and general life on the river.
DANCE
The Bopha Penh Titanic Restaurant (Sisowath Quay near the boat pier opposite St.
104; & 092/646-361; www.bopha-phnompenh.com) stages nightly performances from
7 to 9pm.