The Best of Cambodia & Laos

(& 023/211-534) and carries a similar line of familiar comfort foods from back home,
whether home is Arkansas, Tokyo, Paris, or Seoul.
Monument Books, No. 111 Norodom Blvd. (& 023/217-617), has a great selection
of new books; it’s a good spot to find books on the Khmer language and culture. Upstairs
you’ll find Monument Toys for the kiddies. There are also stores at No. 53 St. 426
(& 023/217-617) and in the airport at the international departure level. For secondhand
books and exchange, D’s Books (No. 12 178 St. and No. 79 240 St.; & 023/221-
280) has a good selection. Also check out the Sorya Shopping Center (& 023/210-018)
just south of central market, which has seven stories of brand-name international goods
as well as discount copies.
7 NIGHTLIFE
Phnom Penh has a reputation for booming nightlife. Booming it is, but a large part of
that is actually pretty seedy. As in Thailand, in some parts of town you may see Khmer
girls from the countryside, waiting for large white men with fat wallets. There are, however,
a number of classier options. Most restaurants are also bars and those along the
riverfront will be open as late as midnight. Cantina (p. 74) is convivial and very popular.
Talkin’ to a Stranger (p. 79) is a bastion of social relaxation, and Kandal House (p. 76)
is also cozy and friendly. The nicest Phnom Penh nightlife is largely found in its restaurant
scene.
There are a number of large discos you can visit if you feel a boogie impetus coming
on. They are not your best bet, however, since they are expensive and not very pleasant.
Better to head to one of the bars with a dance floor. Avoid the Heart of Darkness because
it is dangerous (see below). Upstairs at the Riverhouse (see below) is the best since it is
relaxed, not overly peopled with commercial sex workers, and has great music.
BARS & CLUBS
Howie’s Bar Howie’s is an all-night joint next to the Heart of Darkness. Being a late,
late kind of place it is rough and ready, but has a good atmosphere. Howie, the American
Khmer owner, is a good sort who has seen a lot. Howie’s is billed as “Way Cool!” and
that is a pretty accurate description. It closes when the last person leaves. Daily 6pm–late.
No. 32 St. 51.
Love Orange Club If you want to see how the vibrant privileged youth of Phnom
Penh enjoy themselves, head to the Love Orange Club. Anyone over 22 will feel a little
out of place, but Cambodian kids now often speak good English and you will be made
welcome. The music is largely heavy dance and Khmer rap. During the day it is a Khmer
restaurant and coffee shop. 7am–late. No. 32 St. 240. & 023/221-818.
Pontoon Lounge People genuinely rock the boat to state-of-the-art DJs at this bar
on the Tonle Sap. It is Phnom Penh’s hippest late-night venue right now. This is reflected
in the prices, which are very high for Cambodia. The hipness is somewhat qualified by
the fact that the river itself can sometimes be malodorous. 9pm–late. Sisowath Quay
opposite St. 108. & 012/572-880.
Riverhouse Lounge Upstairs at the Riverhouse is the coolest disco in town.
The setting is marvelous, with the river glittering before you as you sip one of their fine
cocktails on the balcony. They have special guest DJs every weekend, and the music is
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PHNOM PENH 5
NIGHTLIFE