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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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88<br />

PHNOM PENH<br />

5<br />

SHOPPING & GALLERIES<br />

Munitions into Art<br />

As armed conflict drew to a close at the end <strong>of</strong> the last century, <strong>Cambodia</strong><br />

remained awash with weapons <strong>of</strong> war. Even the motodups were <strong>of</strong>ten armed<br />

back then. Programs to disarm the populace were quickly put into place.<br />

AK47s, mortars, and rocket launchers soon started to pile up. In 2003, Sasha<br />

Constable, a quietly spoken British artist, trained in London, teamed up with an<br />

organization with the unwieldy title <strong>of</strong> the “European Union’s Assistance on<br />

Curbing Small Arms and Light Weapons program,” or EUASAC.<br />

<strong>The</strong> cooperation provided the opportunity to channel a vision. Young<br />

Khmer artists (from the Royal University <strong>of</strong> Fine Arts) were aching to express<br />

their feelings about the end <strong>of</strong> war and their hopes for the newfound peace.<br />

Under the auspices <strong>of</strong> EUASAC, Sasha c<strong>of</strong>ounded the Peace Art Project <strong>Cambodia</strong>,<br />

and with expert help from within <strong>Cambodia</strong> and from around the globe,<br />

her students took all these rusting metal piles <strong>of</strong> misery and transformed them<br />

into sculptures reflecting their anger at conflict and their desire for peace.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re are giant dragonflies fashioned from machine-gun barrels, huge angry<br />

metal figures breaking apart an AK47, the ubiquitous and potent symbol <strong>of</strong><br />

casual murder across <strong>Cambodia</strong>. Sculptures include delicately poised ballet<br />

dancers, birds <strong>of</strong> prey with wings soaring, and other more prosaic and typically<br />

<strong>Cambodia</strong>n rural themes: A woman carrying water, two buckets slung across<br />

her shoulders with a bamboo pole, echoes the etiolated figures <strong>of</strong> Giacometti.<br />

A water buffalo bows its head and a small, sparky guard dog sniffs the air.<br />

In many venues around Phnom Penh you might spot the work <strong>of</strong> PAPC.<br />

Sometimes it is a bar stool, sometimes an ornament. <strong>The</strong>re’s a sign and clock<br />

made from AK47s at Cantina (p. 74), and a huge “Bird <strong>of</strong> Peace” sculpture, commissioned<br />

by the Australian Embassy, at Sanderson Park near Wat Phnom.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re are also large municipal sculptures across <strong>Cambodia</strong>, particularly in Battambang<br />

and Kompong Thom. Although the PAPC program is over, the idea<br />

lives on. A group <strong>of</strong> <strong>Cambodia</strong>n artists is turning land mines into art under the<br />

auspices <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Cambodia</strong>n Mine Action Art Project. With support from UNDP,<br />

the artists spend time in the countryside with both local people and working<br />

de-miners, and then create paintings and collages to express how <strong>Cambodia</strong>ns<br />

are positively addressing the challenge <strong>of</strong> land mine and explosive remnants <strong>of</strong><br />

war and the effects. <strong>The</strong> work is shown both within <strong>Cambodia</strong> and is being<br />

shown abroad as well in celebration <strong>of</strong> the 10th anniversary <strong>of</strong> <strong>Cambodia</strong>’s<br />

ratification <strong>of</strong> the Anti-Personnel Mine Ban Treaty.<br />

their new location just across from the Golden Gate Hotel at No. 1C St. 278 (& 012/<br />

709-096).<br />

For essentials and Western groceries, stop by the Lucky Market, No. 160 Sihanouk<br />

Blvd. (& 023/215-229), the most popular shopping center for Phnom Penh’s many<br />

expats. <strong>The</strong> main branch <strong>of</strong> “the Lucky” is just west <strong>of</strong> the Victory Monument traffic<br />

circle, and there’s also a branch on the ground floor <strong>of</strong> the Sorya Shopping Center (see<br />

below). For fresh, organic produce and fine canned goods, Veggy’s is at No. 23 St. 240

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