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334<br />

Part V: The Part <strong>of</strong> Tens<br />

If you happen to come across one <strong>of</strong> these — or someone gives you one —<br />

you should know that signal boosters are mated devices, which means<br />

they’re engineered for specific products. Vendors have to walk a fine line<br />

when boosting signals in light <strong>of</strong> federal limits on the aggregate signal that<br />

can be used in the unlicensed frequencies. For example, the Linksys <strong>Wireless</strong><br />

Signal Booster was certified by the Federal Communications Commission<br />

(FCC) for use with the WAP11 <strong>Wireless</strong> Access Point and BEFW11S4 <strong>Wireless</strong><br />

Access Point Router only. Linksys says that using the WSB24 with any other<br />

product from either Linksys or another vendor voids the user’s authority to<br />

operate the device.<br />

The main reason that companies such as Linksys sold their signal boosters<br />

for use with only their own products is certification issues. The FCC has to<br />

approve any radio transmission equipment sold on the market. A great deal<br />

<strong>of</strong> testing must be done for a piece <strong>of</strong> gear to get certified, and the certification<br />

testing must be done for the complete system — and vendors usually do<br />

this expensive testing only with their own gear.<br />

As some reviews have pointed out, however, you could use the WSB24 with<br />

any wireless LAN product that operates in the 2.4 GHz band — notably,<br />

802.11g products. You couldn’t use it with 802.11a or any dual-band 2.4/5 GHz<br />

products; its design couldn’t deal with the higher frequency.<br />

Add an Access Point<br />

Adding another access point (or two) can greatly increase your signal coverage,<br />

as shown in Figure 18-1. The great thing about wireless is that it’s fairly<br />

portable — you can literally plug it in anywhere. The main issues are getting<br />

power to it and getting an Ethernet connection (which carries the data) to it.<br />

The first item is usually not a problem because many electrical codes require,<br />

in a residence, that power outlets be placed every eight feet. The second<br />

issue (getting the Ethernet connection to your AP) used to be a matter<br />

<strong>of</strong> running all sorts <strong>of</strong> wiring around the house. Depending on the actual<br />

throughput you’re looking to provide, however, you may be able to set up<br />

another AP by using the <strong>Home</strong>Plug, DS2, or even wireless repeater functionality<br />

that we mention in Chapter 3 and elsewhere in this chapter. We don’t<br />

repeat those options here, but know that you have those options when you’re<br />

moving away from your <strong>of</strong>fice or other place where many <strong>of</strong> your network<br />

connections are concentrated.<br />

After you get the connectivity and power to the place you want, what do<br />

you need to consider when you’re installing a second AP? Choose the right<br />

channel: If you have auto channel selection in your AP, you don’t need to<br />

worry because your AP’s smarts handle it for you. If you’re setting the<br />

channel manually, don’t choose the same one that your other AP is set to.

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