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Switches<br />

Chapter 5: Choosing <strong>Wireless</strong> <strong>Home</strong> <strong>Networking</strong> Equipment<br />

When your wireless network needs some order<br />

Your home network is comprised <strong>of</strong> many parts.<br />

If you’re smart, you’ve consolidated them as<br />

much as possible, because having fewer devices<br />

means easier installation and troubleshooting.<br />

But suppose that you have a cable modem, a<br />

router, a switch, and an access point — not an<br />

unusual situation if you grew your network over<br />

time. Now suppose that the power goes out.<br />

Each <strong>of</strong> these devices resets at different rates.<br />

The switch will probably come back fairly quickly<br />

because it’s a simple device. The cable modem<br />

will probably take the longest to resync with the<br />

network, and the AP and router will come back<br />

up probably somewhere in-between.<br />

The problem that you, as a client <strong>of</strong> the DHCP<br />

server (which is likely in the router in this<br />

instance), have is that not all the elements are in<br />

place for a clean IP assignment to flow back<br />

to your system. For example, the router needs to<br />

know the WAN IP address for you to have a good<br />

connection to the Internet. If the cable modem<br />

hasn’t renegotiated its connection, it cannot provide<br />

that to the router. If the AP comes back<br />

online before the router, it cannot get its DHCP<br />

from the router to provide connectivity to the<br />

client. Different devices react differently when<br />

something isn’t as it should be on startup.<br />

Our advice: If you have a problem with your connectivity<br />

that you didn’t have before the electricity<br />

went out and came back on, follow these<br />

simple steps. Turn everything <strong>of</strong>f, start at the farthest<br />

point from the client (usually this is your<br />

broadband modem), and work back toward the<br />

client, to let each device get its full start-up<br />

cycle complete before moving to the next device<br />

in line — ending with rebooting your PC or other<br />

wirelessly enabled device.<br />

<strong>Wireless</strong> routers, available from nearly any manufacturer, include from one to<br />

eight Ethernet ports with which you can connect computers or other devices<br />

via Ethernet cables. These routers are not only wireless APs but are also wired<br />

switches that efficiently enable all the computers on your network to communicate<br />

either wirelessly or over Ethernet cables.<br />

Make sure that the switch ports support at least 100BaseT Ethernet — this is<br />

the 100 Mbps variant <strong>of</strong> Ethernet. You should also ensure that the switch<br />

supports the full-duplex variant <strong>of</strong> 100BaseT — meaning that it supports 100<br />

Mbps <strong>of</strong> data in both directions at the same time. If you’re looking for the ultimate<br />

in performance, you should strongly consider paying a bit more for a<br />

router that supports Gigabit Ethernet (1000BaseT).<br />

Even though you may intend to create a wireless home network, sometimes<br />

you may want to attach a device to the network through a more traditional<br />

network cable. For example, we highly recommend that when you configure<br />

a router for the first time, you attach the router to your computer by a network<br />

cable (rather than via a wireless connection).<br />

103

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