Warsaw November 28th - In Your Pocket

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
WARSAW
N°71
Poland - 5zł (w tym 8% VAT)
UK - £5
EU (excl. Poland & UK) - €3
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1641-5264
December 2012 - January 2013
The holiday
season
Celebrate the Polish way
Copernicus
Science Center
Hands-on science
made fun

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
WARSAW
N°71
Poland - 5zł (w tym 8% VAT)
UK - £5
EU (excl. Poland & UK) - €3
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1641-5264
December 2012 - January 2013
The holiday
season
Celebrate the Polish way
Copernicus
Science Center
Hands-on science
made fun

4
CONTENTS
Contents
Arrival & Transport 12
The Basics 17
Culture & Events 20
Where to stay 28
Dining 34
Cafés 58
Nightlife 60
History 72
Sightseeing
What to see 75
Palace of Culture and Science 87
Old Town 88
Praga 90
Warsaw Uprising 92
Science is fun? We were skeptics once too until the Copernicus
Science Center opened in 2010 on the banks of the
Vistula River. Inside you’ll find all manner of hands-on experiments,
activities and games that make science come
alive for even the youngest family members. The CSC
celebrated their two millionth visitor in September, which
should tell you how popular this 15,000 square metre
attraction is. Learn the ins and outs of visiting the CSC on
page 108. Photo: Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre
Warsaw In Your Pocket
Christmas in Poland comes with a whole host of unique
traditions that can baffle the average tourist. Fortunately
we’ve broken it all down in our feature on page 8 so you
can avoid any and all faux pas. Plus it’s a great time of
year (if a cold one) to get out and explore all the seasonal
cheer in Warsaw, including the Christmas market. Toss
on your wooliest sweater and find out what the holidays
in Poland are like firsthand. Photo © Piotr Wierzbowski,
Courtesy of Warsaw Tourist Office
Jewish Warsaw 96
Treblinka 99
Łazienki 100
Wilanów 102
Chopin 105
Copernicus Science Centre 108
Leisure 110
Łódź
Directory
112
Shopping 114
Directory 120
Maps & Index
City centre map 123
City map 124
Country map 126
Street index 128
Listings Index 129
Feature Index 130
warsaw.inyourpocket.com

6
FOREWORD
If you’re picking this guide up in December then it’s
probably not technically winter yet, even though
Warsaw has already seen its first snowflakes and some
plummeting temperatures, not to mention the painfully
early sunsets that come with the impending time
change. But none of the residents of Poland’s capital
seem to mind these things as December also brings on
a string of holidays that make some of the more painful
aspects of the upcoming winter easy to overlook. You’ll
notice the streets are awash in signs for mulled wine
and hot beer, and Christmas decorations creep out
earlier and earlier each year.
So what’s different about celebrating the holidays in
Poland? Our feature on page 8 gives you all the details,
but lets just say it’s a little more serious (and a lot more
cooking) than you’re probably used to. It’s also not just
confined to Christmas day itself, as Poles also celebrate
Trzech Kroli (Three Kings) on January 6 and Dzien
Swietego Mikolaja (St. Nick) on December 6th.
Outside of celebrating until you have to loosen your belt
the city is awash in activities regardless of the season,
and one of our favourites is a visit to the Copernicus
Science Centre. This €93 glass and steel monster
hugging the Vistula River is a modern hands-on place to
get your science on, and one the kids will be amazed by.
Experiments cover all age groups – even the wee ones
get their own exhibitions in the Buzzz! section, which
teaches shapes, colours and sounds to kids ages 3-6.
When we’re not experimenting at the CSC we’re doing the
essential research of scoping Warsaw for the best new
bars and restaurants to recommend, and this issue is
heaping with fresh ventures that get our thumbs up. Wine
lovers who like to drink in a fashionable atmosphere will
appreciate Zurawina Rest & Wine, while Meat Love not
only gets our attention for having an amazing name but
also a Belgian waffle topped with pulled pork and maple
syrup – sounds so wrong, but it’s so very, very right.
As always we sincerely hope you enjoy your time in
Warsaw and the guide we’ve put together. Be sure to like
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for all the latest on what’s happening in the city, and
you can leave comments about all the venues listed
here (and more) on our website at inyourpocket.com/
Poland/Warsaw. And of course we welcome your direct
feedback at editor_poland@inyourpocket.com.
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warsaw.inyourpocket.com

8
CHRISTMAS IN POLAND
Christmas to us always seems a little bit more ‘Christmasy’
if you have both some good old fashioned tradition and a
wintery climate in which to enjoy it. We’re clearly not the only
ones as demonstrated by the insistence of film makers to
conjure up snow covered streets in places like the UK (think
Love Actually etc.) at Christmas time when the reality is a
white Christmas in places like London come around once
in a blue moon.
Poland therefore is a much better bet for Christmas if that’s
what you’re after with snow pretty much guaranteed and
Christian traditions still the foundations upon which the
whole holiday is celebrated. Despite the country having
heartily bought into much of the West’s consumerism, this
is still a place where tradition and particularly religious
tradition maintains an important role in the lives of most
(even those who have long since given up going to mass
on a regular basis).
So pull on your scarf, hat and gloves and get into the spirit of
the season which has its own unique feel and traditions which
may very well be foreign compared to what you are used to
in your home country. Arm yourself with the Polish Christmas
greeting - “Wesołych Świat i Szczęśliwego Nowego Roku!”
(Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!) (Ve-so-wick shveeont
ee shchen-shlee-vego No-vego Ro-koo) - and off you go.
Advent
In contrast to western coca-cola cultures, Christmas
in Poland isn’t as much of a shameless celebration of
consumerism. Here, the holiday season doesn’t kick off with
slashed prices and stampedes outside department stores,
but rather a sobering 24-day period called ‘Adwent’ during
which Poles are expected to spiritually prepare for Christ’s
coming by refraining from indulgences like partying, dancing
and drinking; are encouraged to help the less fortunate,
and, of course, to attend mass as much as possible. The
supposed last day of partying takes place on the Feast of
St. Andrew on November 29th, a celebration known here as
‘Andrzejki’ with Advent beginning on December 1st. How
strictly these church-established guidelines are followed is
entirely up to the individual, and having a look around town
you’d hardly guess the holidays were a time of self-restraint
and supposed prohibition. But it does go to underline the
fact that in comparison to the west, Poland really puts the
‘Christ’ in Christmas; traditionally speaking, ‘capturing the
holiday spirit’ denotes an embodiment of Christian ideals.
Saint Nicholas’ Day
With Christmas Day reserved for family and busy with the
celebration of Christ, seasonal gift-giving chores have been
mostly outsourced to Saint Nicholas (Święty Mikołaj) who
unofficially gets the holiday season started when he comes
three weeks earlier on December 6th – ‘Dzień Świętego
Mikołaja’, or Saint Nicholas Day. In Polish tradition, Ol’ Saint
Nick (or ‘Mick’ as the case may be) isn’t a portly pipe-smoker
who lives at the North Pole, but an actual dignified saint who
comes down from heaven in a rather regal purple and gold
robe and bishop’s hat, carrying a crosier (you know, one of
those staffs shaped like a candy-cane) on the anniversary
of his death. In the run-up to Dzień Świętego Mikołaja, eager
children write letters to the Saint requesting the one, maybe
two (if they’ve been really good) gifts they most desire that
year and put the letter outside on the windowsill so the old
codger can drop by and pick up their request during the
night. On the 6th, Polish children awake to discover Mikołaj’s
good graces with a gift under their pillow or next to the bed.
This is one of those days where the 123 years of partition
The Christmas Market
70 wooden stalls make up the Christmas fair in the
capital, even former Russian President Medvedev
visited in the past, so it must be worth a look. It’s an
international affair with traders from Germany, Latvia,
Slovakia, Austria and Croatia among others arriving.
Come and sample the German Bratwurst and mulled
wine, Polish pies from Mazuria, bakery products and cold
cuts. There will be no shortage of music either, especially
carols and, of course, a huge Christmas tree. We will
also have the chance to enjoy international, national
and regional presentations and buy culinary goodies,
tourist offers and folk art. The Nativity Scene was built
by the charity Aid to the Church in Need and they will
be also selling souvenirs, Christmas decorations and
devotional articles, something for everyone. With the
beautiful old town square as the backdrop, this will be
the best place for cutesy pictures while warming yourself
with the delicious grzane wino (mulled wine). The fair will
run until the feast of the Three Kings on January 6th.
that the country was subjected to between 1795 and 1918
become evident. In other parts of the country such as the
Prussian partition which incorporated places like Gdansk
the evening of December 5 th sees children cleaning their
shoes and leaving them by the door or window to await
St Nicholas’ visit where sweets are the traditional gift for
those who have been good in the preceding 12 months.
Christmas Eve
December 24th – or ‘Wigilia’ as it’s called in PL - is one
of the biggest feast days of the year and an important
time to be with family. As such, though Wigilia is not a work
holiday you can expect virtually every shop to close early
and stay closed until the 27th, so arrange accordingly. In
the evening it’s tradition that those gathered to eat the
vigil feast together first share the blessed Christmas wafer,
called opłatek. In an intimate (and potentially awkward if
you don’t speak Polish) moment, each person goes to the
others in turn, making a blessing for their happiness in the
coming year, breaking off a piece of the other person’s
wafer and eating it, then sealing the deal with a kiss on
the cheek. Once that formality is out of the way and the
kids have spotted the first star in the sky, the feast can
officially begin. Traditionally, bits of hay are spread beneath
the tablecloth in honour of Jesus’ manger pedigree, and an
extra place is set at the table in case of the arrival by the
‘unexpected visitor,’ Baby Jesus himself or a deceased
relative (whoever arrives first). Dinner consists of a gutbusting
twelve courses – one for each of Jesus’ disciples
– and because it’s meant to be meatless, the main dish is
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
U Fukiera, Warszawa, Rynek Starego Miasta asta 27,
tel. 022 831 10 13, tel./fax 022 831 58 08 8
www.ufukiera.pl
Taste polish tradition
an invitation from

10
CHRISTMAS IN POLAND
Przykuta/Wikipedia/CC-BY-SA 3.0
traditionally carp, which apparently isn’t recognised as meat
by Catholics (fish was Jesus’ favourite vegetable). In the
days before Wigilia, large pools of carp – half writhing, half
floating belly-up – can be found in the city’s supermarkets
waiting to be purchased and brought home to the family
bathtub where they are kept until it’s time for the man of
the house to carve the carp and serve it cold. ‘Smacznego’
(Bon Appetite) (smach-Ney-go). If you’re fortunate to have
a good cook in the family the carp might also be prepared
fried in breadcrumbs which goes some way to making it
more edible in our opinion, though many Poles will argue
that carp is a tasty dish – each to their own.
Other traditional dishes include żurek and barszcz – the
traditional soups, poppy-seed pastries, stuffed cabbage
rolls (gołąbki), herring in oil, pickles and an assortment
of other Polish salads and sides many also containing
fish. The meal concludes with a round of belt-unbuckling,
carol-singing and gift-unwrapping after the revelation that
during the feast an angel has laid presents beneath the
Christmas tree (Mikołaj also gets an off-day for Wigilia).
Alcoholic abstinence is the Wigila tradition most commonly
overlooked, however, at midnight, most families head out
in the cold to attend pasterka, or midnight mass. It’s at
this time that animals, some believe, take on human voices
apparently.
Christmas Day
After morning mass, December 25th is reserved for
visiting family and friends and the continuation of feasting
(this time including meat and alcohol). In comparison to
the west, while Christmas Day holds less importance and
symbolism for Poles than Christmas Eve, it is still a public
holiday and a time for family. Despite moves by many,
particularly the younger generation, away from the Catholic
church in recent years, Christmas is still viewed with more
religious significance than you might expect in your own
country and even those who might not attend mass on
a regular basis anymore still respect the traditions of
the holiday period. You can still expect the majority of
bars and restaurants to be closed on Christmas Day and
the Second Day of Christmas (December 26) but more
businesses have begun to take advantage of the holiday
period in recent years. You’ll find many of the better hotels
offering special offers with some even offering to cook you
a full Christmas dinner which they’ll deliver to your door.
You can also expect ex-pat favourites like the Warsaw
Tortilla Factory to be open for December 26th with all of
the sport live on TV.
New Year’s Eve
December 31st is known locally as Sylwester, and on this
last night of the year every bar, club, restaurant and hotel
in town will be hosting an all night New Year’s Eve bash.
Unfortunately, you have to pay to play and it’s wise to plan
where you want to spend your evening since expensive tickets
are required to enter most venues, and therefore pub crawling
is not really an option. On page 25 we’ve given you a cursory list
of some local New Year’s offers, but your celebratory options
are literally limitless; make sure you do the work of finding
something that will suit you and your friends.
Three Kings Day
The holiday of Three Kings or Trzech Króli (January 6th)
marks the end of the Christmas season in impressive style
throughout Poland. A wholly Catholic holiday, 3 Kings honours
Kaspar, Melchior and Balthazar, the three wise men who visited
Jesus at his birth. Celebrations range from small to grand but
often include a parade welcoming the wise men, with characters
passing out candy and children dressed in colours signifying
Asia, Africa and Europe (the respective homelands of the wise
men). Mass is also a compulsory part of the Three Kings holiday
as well, with families picking up a piece of blessed chalk during
the service that is taken home and used to write the year and
the initials “KMB,” with a cross between each letter, above the
front door. In some places this honour is reserved for a priest
who visits during the holiday season, blessing the house for the
coming year by inscribing the commonly seen ‘K + M + B 2013’
(for a small donation of course).
This tradition is said to protect the family from sickness and
misfortune for the year. Fun is also had during the day’s feast
when a Three Kings cake is served with either an almond or
coin baked inside. Whoever is fortunate enough to land the
surprise slice is considered king (or queen) for the day and lucky
for the rest of the year. If your cake – which varies by region and
can be anything from sponge to fruitcake – is decorated with
a crown the lucky almond-eater gets the honour of wearing
it. An additional reason to celebrate: In 2011 Parliament
officially restored the date as a non-working national public
holiday in Poland for the first time since it was cancelled by the
communists 50 years earlier, so there’s no need to go work!
The Polish holiday season doesn’t actually officially wrap
up until February 2nd when Saint Nick sees his shadow and
it’s agreed that every family should toss its Christmas tree.
For more information about specific holiday happenings
around this merry miasto, head to our Events section (page
20) where we give you even more on The Great Christmas
Illuminations, New Year’s Eve and the Great Orchestra
of Christmas Charity; tis the season of giving, they say…
© Piotr Wierzbowski, Courtesy of Warsaw Tourist Office
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com

12 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Warsaw-Modlin Mazovia Airport
Warsaw-Modlin Airport (Port Lotniczy
Warszawa/Modlin) ul. Gen. Wiktora Thommee
1a, Nowy Dwór Mazowiecki, tel. (+48) 22 346 43
60, www.modlinairport.pl. The brand new Modlin
airport looks like a shiny tin can in a forest in the middle
of nowhere, which is essentially what it is. Fortunately
the inside is clean, modern and well-equipped to handle
international travelers with plenty of prominent signage.
After collecting your luggage from one of two belts and
exiting into the main hall you’ll find all the services you
could want: ATMs, an information desk, bathrooms, currency
exchange, vending machines, four food points for
more legitimate meals and car rental companies (though
the airport’s newness has these folks operating from
makeshift IKEA desks at the moment).
Those looking to end up in Warsaw have three main options
for transport into the city: grab a cab, take a bus
to the capital, or board a shuttle that will take you to
Modlin Train Station where you can take a train to your
destination. Glob Taxi is currently offering transport
from Modlin to the city center for 99zł during the week,
and on weekends/after 22:00 it costs an additional
30zl. Bus riders will find Modlin Bus bus company offering
two routes from the airport: the first deposits
travelers outside Warszawa Centralna train station at
Al. Jerozolimskie 56C (a guarded parking) for 33zł, while
the other drops you at the Młociny metro station for
29zł (tickets can be purchased at the well-marked desk
near the airport’s exit, and all buses are equipped with
wi-fi). Translud also offers bus service to the center
of Warsaw (you’ll be dropped across the street from
the Intercontinental on Emili Plater) but it requires an
annoying bus change at Modlin Twierdza pętla stop.
You pay 1zl for the first portion of the trip and 8zl for
the second bus into the city for a total of 9zl. For the
schedule visit their website at www.translud.pl. The
final option involves a 10-minute shuttle bus ride to the
Modlin train station. The green and yellow buses pull up
in front of the airport every 20 minutes, and drivers sell
12zl “airport” tickets that cover your fare on the train as
well. The brand new modern and air-conditioned Koleje
Mazowieckie (“Elf”) trains take 45-60 minutes to reach
Warszawa Centralna (note you need to board the trains
that terminate at Frederick Chopin Airport in order to
reach Centralna, and this train also stops at Warszawa
Wschodnia). The earliest train departure for Centralna is
05:57, while the last is at 00:20. For the latest schedule
information visit www.mazowieckie.com.pl/en. Note that
we’ve heard horror stories about transfers purchased via
the airlines - namely no-show buses - so buyer beware.
Modlin Train Station ul.
Mieszka I 3, Nowy Dwór
Mazowiecki, tel. (+48) 22
364 44 44, www.mazowieckie.com.pl/en.
Modlin
train station has recently
been renovated and is as
sparklingly new as the airport itself. That said, you won’t
find much beyond a waiting room, toilets and a ticket window
so far. Food-wise you can’t get much more than snacks
and coffee, but a newly-opened attached hostel called
Zaczarowana Stacyjka is welcoming guests. The shuttle
to Modlin Airport picks up and drops off passengers in
the front of the station. Q Ticket office open 24hrs, with a
break between 01:00 - 03:00 when no trains are running.
While Warsaw is generally well linked with both the outside
world and the rest of Poland, both road and rail networks
are undergoing major regeneration work, in part thanks to
Warsaw’s recent hosting of the Euro 2012 football championships.
Improvement work also extends to the airport, and
for the time being travellers more used to the streamlined
transport links of the west may find both patience and nerves
severely tested.
By Car
Warsaw is located in the heart of the country and has extensive
road links with other major Polish cities. Having said
that the competition on the road’s front isn’t fierce. Roads
leading into Warsaw tend to be of decent dual carriageway
standard, though once you enter the city limits Warsaw traffic
can become a serious problem - particularly during the
week. Most major hotels are located in the central area and
you should be heading in most cases for the Central Train
Station (Dworzec Warszawa Centralna) and its neighbour,
the Palace of Culture (PKiN). Parking in the central area
is generally available on-street where there are standard
parking charges payable at roadside machines. Most major
hotels will offer some form of off-road guarded parking. Be
warned that Polish roads and Polish drivers are not the best
especially if you have driven in western Europe.
Indeed, Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road
fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the
pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor
road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different
traffic and, most of all, drivers who have no consideration
for anybody else result in the common sight of mangled car
wrecks around the country. Police seem unwilling to control
irresponsible driving, and don’t be surprised to see cars
shooting through red lights, cutting each other up and staking
a claim for the Formula 1 championship.
The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between
23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/
hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways.
Seat belts must be worn at all times and it is illegal for
drivers to use hand-held mobile phones. Following the letter
of the law all cars should be equipped with a first aid kit,
warning triangle, fire extinguisher, rear mud flaps and right
and left hand outside mirrors. Flouting the rules will cost
you 200zł (for using a mobile), 100zł (not wearing a seat
belt) and up to 500zł for speeding. The legal limit for drink
driving is 0.2‰ blood/alcohol level. Put simply, if you’re
driving, don’t drink.
EU citizens may use their home driving licenses as long as
they are valid, however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify
the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will
find their licenses invalid (though that hasn’t stopped anyone
we know from driving their girlfriend’s car). Carry your license
and passport at all times when driving.
Since April 2007 it has been compulsory for headlights to be
switched on at all times.
Guarded Parking B-3, ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw
Victoria Hotel).
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By Bus
If you come to Warsaw by bus, odds are you’ll be landing at the
main bus station on Al. Jerozolimskie, while budget options like
PolskiBus drop passengers off at Dworzec Autobusowy Metro
Wilanowska, a short distance from the Metro Wilanowska stop.
Main Bus Station (Dworzec Autobusowy Warszawa
Zachodnia) D-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 144, tel. (+48) 703 40
33 30, www.pksbilety.pl. Coaches arrive and depart - unless
otherwise stated - from the Warsaw West Bus Station (Dworzec
Autobusowy Warszawa Zachodnia). Find a currency exchange
and two ATM (bankomat) machines located in the main hall.
There is no Tourist Info point, for the closest you’ll have to make
the journey into the Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance
from ul. Emill Plater). There’s a legitimate left-luggage operation,
as well as five payphones located in one of the side corridors
(though you’ll need to buy phone cards to use them). You can
do that by visiting one of the Relay kiosks in the main hall. You’ll
also be able to buy SIM cards, prepaid cards and transport
cards from here. HALO taxis stand outside the entrance and
will charge you about 20zł to the centre. Refuse a lift from any
of the smiling unlicensed operators who offer you a lift. The
bus running to the centre is found right across a busy highway
and getting there is an adventure in itself seeing there are no
signposts in the subway leading there. Basically from the main
hall duck down under the sign saying Dworzec PKP, head down
the stairs, turn right, follow the corridor to its conclusion, turn
right again - you’ll see two stairwells leading to the surface. Take
the left one and presto, there’s your bus stop. Confused? Not
half as much as we were. Good work Warsaw. To get to Central
Station take bus number 127, 130, 158 or 517. At night you’ll
be needing and N35 or N85. The journey takes approximately
15 minutes so buy a 2,60zł ticket valid for 20 minutes (3,40zł
starting in January). Remember to validate your ticket on boarding.
Q Ticket office open 05:30 - 22:00.
PolskiBus ul. Puławska 145 (Dworzec Autobusowy
Metro Wilanowska, s.14), www.polskibus.pl. Note
that the Warsaw-Gdansk route leaves from Metro Młociny.
Street Signs
Every single street
in Warsaw is clearly
marked by a number
of well-positioned and
highly visible street
signs. It is almost impossible to go more than 100
metres in Warsaw without knowing what street you are
on. What’s more, the signs are almost always colour
coded: each area of the capital has its own colour. As
a visitor you are most likely to see blue signs (for the
south and south-central part of the city) and brown
(for the northern part of the city centre, and Old Town).
But there’s far more helpful information on those
street signs than the mere street name, however. If
you look closely, the vast majority of also include the
numbers of the building in the block to which they are
attached. What’s more, there will often be an arrow
showing which way the numbers climb. As anyone
looking for ul. Marszalkowska 135 (or such like) will
know, Warsaw’s central boulevards are incredibly long,
and knowing which way to go makes life much, much
easier. Whoever it was who decided to invest in the
street signs (and they have been up for some time
now, certainly for more than a decade) we hope that
they became rich and famous.
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
98
December 2012 - January 2013
13

14 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT 15
By Plane
Warsaw has been fortunate when it comes to airports: the
main hub, Chopin Airport, recently received a modern overhaul
while budget carriers like Wizzair and Ryanair now have a place
to call their own in the new Modlin Airport northwest of the capital.
Both airports offer plenty of options for transportation and
make accessing the city an impressively smooth endeavour.
Warsaw Chopin Airport (Lotnisko Chopina w Warszawie)
ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. (+48) 22 650 42 20, www.
lotnisko-chopina.pl. Warsaw Frederick Chopin Airport (Port
Lotniczy im. Fryderyka Chopina) has recently seen the opening
of Zone CDE, a glass and steel giant that sits rather awkwardly
next to the older Zone AB (which is currently under major renovation
and therefore closed). Collectively they are called Terminal
A, and the spacious CDE now handles all incoming and outgoing
traffic. The hallway connecting the zones houses ATMs, exchange
offices, tourist info, coffee shops and snack marts.
Taxis
The days when cash
bells would ring whenever
a cab driver would
hear a foreign accent
might have passed, but
it’s still always better
to ring ahead rather
than just hailing a taxi
in the street. In particular avoid drivers who hawk their
services in the arrivals hall at the airport; we’ve heard
plenty of horror stories.
All the companies we list will usually have someone on
their switchboard who can speak English. MPT, the staterun
firm, can boast the most reliable reputation. But you
won’t find many cheaper than Super Taxi. Find ELE taxis
on the Marriott tower side of the central station; it’s the
second row of cars. Tipping is not expected, but if your
driver gets you from A to B without a detour through the
countryside then by all means, feel free
Ele Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 811 11 11, www.eletaxi.pl.
Halo Taxi O’K, tel. (+48) 22 196 23,
www.halotaxiok.pl.
Merc Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 677 77 77,
www.6777777.pl.
MPT, tel. (+48) 22 191 91, www.taximpt.pl.
Sawa Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 644 44 44,
www.sawataxi.com.pl.
Super Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 196 22,
www.supertaxi.pl.
The taxi rank outside exits 1 and 2 offers three certified companies:
Super Taxi, Sawa Taxi and Ele Taxi. The 15-30 minute
ride to the centre costs around 25-40 złoty, though be on guard
for unlicensed sharks - they’ll charge three or four times that.
Cheapskates can catch the brand new train into the city or
get bus number 175.
The train station can be found underground by turning right
outside of whichever arrivals area you leave from and going
all the way to the end of the covered section where you will
find escalators taking you down to ticket booths. Routes S2
and S3C will take you Centralna train station, while S3S will
take you to Śródmieście station in the city center. Trains are
due to run 4 times per hour. Be sure to validate your ticket,
which costs 3.60zł and will increase to 4.40zł in January, in
the ‘kasowniks’ upon boarding. Bus stops can be found in
front of arrivals at Zone AB and Zone CDE. Tickets for the
bus are also 3.60zł (which will also increase to 4.40zł in January,
and be sure to validate). Buses run frequently between
05:05 and 23:05 with journey time taking approximately
25 minutes. At night when the 175 stops running travelers
can take the N32 night bus, which runs every 30 minutes.
Warsaw Shuttle, tel. (+48) 506 17 54 95, www.warsawshuttle.com.
The company offers private airport transfer
services at competitive prices from 99PLN per run. Highest
quality for the best possible price. Call in advance to book.
Warszawa Lotnisko Chopina Train Station ul. Żwirki
i Wigury 1 (Airport). The new railway station connecting the
airport and the city centre can be found by exiting the arrivals
hall in either terminal and turning right. The underground
station can be accessed by escalators found just after the
covered area outside the terminals. See ‘By Plane’ for information
on train destinations, ticket prices and frequency.
By Train
Warsaw’s main train station, Centralna, is a hulking metal
giant that sits conveniently in the city’s center and is the main
hub for trains arriving in the capital. Additionally passengers
may disembark at the smaller Warszawa Wschodnia on the
eastern side of the Vistula river between Praga Polnoc and
Praga Południe districts, and Warszawa Zachodnia on the
border of Ochota and Wola districts to the west of the city.
Warszawa Wschodnia Train Station H-1, ul. Kijowska
8, tel. (+48) 197 57. Q Open 24hrs. Note that
due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be
made between 00:00 - 01:00.
Warszawa Zachodnia Train Station D-4, ul.
Tunelowa 1, tel. (+48) 197 57. Q Ticket office open 24
hours. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations
cannot be made between 00:00 - 01:00.
Car rental
Avis ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1
(Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 48
72, www.avis.pl. Avis provide
short-term and long-term rentals,
chauffeur drive service as well as cargo van rentals. There’s
over 1,000 models available, equipped with air-conditioning,
air bags and ABS for your guaranteed comfort and safety.
Also possible to exchange and swap cars. Also at Al. Jerozolimskie
65/79 (B-4, Marriott Hotel) and ul. Łopuszańska
12a (Włochy). QOpen 07:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00.
Budget ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650
40 62, www.budget.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Europcar ul. Żwirki
i Wigury 1 (Airport),
tel. (+48) 22 650 25
64, www.europcar.pl. One of the worlds biggest car
rental companies offers rental solutions tailor made for
travellers (both short and long term) that will suit all needs
(15 different categories of cars are available; Europcar is
present at all Polish airports and many other convenient
locations). Europcar creates flexible driving solutions to
meet your individual mobility needs. Note that the Radisson
Blue Sobieski is a meeting point (cars can be picked up and
dropped off here). There’s also an office at the new Modlin
Airport. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
Dollar Thrifty Rent a Car ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport),
tel. (+48) 668 66 33 00, www.dollar-rentacar.
com.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Hertz ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650
28 96, www.hertz.com.pl. Also at (F-3) ul. Nowogrodzka
27 (Open 09:00 - 15:00, Mon, Fri 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat,
Sun.) QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Joka D-2, ul. Okopowa
47, tel. (+48)
609 18 10 20,
www.joka.com.pl.
A wide range of cars from the baby Fiat Panda to the
spacious Mercedes E200 CDi station wagon. All cars
are equipped with power assisted steering. Satellite
navigation systems are also available. Special rates
offered to those who order through the Joka website,
and go online to find the latest seasonal promotions. Q
Open 09:00-17:00, Sat 09:00-12:00. Outside of these
hours open on request.
Sixt ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1
(Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650
20 31, www.sixt.pl. One of
the world’s largest and oldest
car rental companies offers a choice of solutions from
short and long rental periods to holiday cars. There’s
even a fleet of limousines if you’re interested. Vehicles
range from Seats to luxury Mercedes. Bonuses include
GPS and Sixt cards. Also at ul. Emilii Plater 49 (A-4,
InterContinental Hotel). QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Local Rent A Car B-3, ul. Marszałkowska 140, tel.
(+48) 501 21 61 93, www.lrc.com.pl. QOpen 09:00 -
18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
December 2012 - January 2013

16 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Warszawa Centralna
Warszawa Centralna Train Station A/B-4, Al.
Jerozolimskie 54, tel. (+48) 197 57. Warsaw Central
Station (Warszawa Centralna) is exactly what it says on
the tin: central. And thanks to recent renovations we’re
happy to say it’s now easy to navigate as well. Centralna
is looking better than it ever has with new storefronts and
modern upgrades that will impress those who’ve been
away for a while. From alighting the train you should take
one of the two facing escalators (if they’re working) in the
centre of the platform, which will lead you up into one of the
underground passages that flank the main hall. Whichever
side you come up on you will be one level below ground level
and the ticket hall. Kantors can be found in the underground
passageway between Centralna and the Marriott. Signs
for ATMs (bankomats) are everywhere, and though once
sparse the machines can be spotted at almost every turn.
Tourist info can be found across the street at the Palace
of Culture - just look for the ‘i’ sign (Open 08:00-18:00).
They can provide you with maps, etc. Tickets for the
public transport system can be bought from most of
the newspaper kiosks. Left luggage is located in the
underground corridor that runs below the main hall.
Look for Przechowalnia Bagażu, where stewards will
look after your bag, or opt for one of the plentiful lockers.
Payphones can be found in the underground tunnels with
cards available from all the kiosks. Connect to a Polish
network via mobile by getting SIM and pre-paid cards
from the same newsagents.
Both entrances of the main hall are covered by taxi
ranks, and by passing via tunnels under the main road
you’ll find bus and tram stops though once you enter the
signs are more of a hinderance than a help and you may
never be seen or heard of again. Officially sanctioned ELE
taxis can be found at the rank on Aleje Jerozolimskie and
SAWA taxis can be found rank on the Złote Tarasy side.
On the ground level there is a travel office run by Polish
rail. Find it on the Złote Tarasy side of the building to the
right of the stairs heading down to the platforms under
the Centrum Obslugi Klienta sign (info line 197 57, www.
intercity.pl). Open from 09:00 - 20:00, the multi-lingual
staff (they can even assist the deaf) can search for the
cheapest/easiest connection, sell you international and
domestic tickets, and can help plan your trip for you.
The selection of outlets selling food and drink at Centralna
has improved dramatically with the renovations. Head to
Green Coffee, Starbucks or Coffee Heaven for a range of
good coffee or hot and cold snacks which are available to
takeaway while McDonalds can also be found by following
one of the many signs. If you have time to kill, Champions
in the Marriott can be reached via the underground
passageway and offers a far better place to sit and wait
than the station itself, as does the nearby Złote Tarasy
shopping centre. Don’t be alarmed to find Warszawa
Centralna used as a drop-in centre by Warsaw’s homeless
population - while most are harmless some like to pass
their time being drunk and abusive. Bizarrely, while the
Polish rail staff manning the ticket booths are mono-lingual
(try booths number 14 and 16, which now claim Englishspeaking
staff), the tramps in Centralna seem adept at
begging in a multitude of tongues. Q Open 24hrs. Note
that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot
be made between 00:00 - 01:30.
Public Transport
www.ztm.waw.pl. Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram
system criss-crossing the city as well as a good, but very
limited, metro system running from north to south. Over
1,200 buses operate in and around the city, and most run
from between 05:00 and 23:00. After that night buses run
on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the
letter N, followed by a two digit number. ‘Fast buses’ (marked
with red digits) skip the smaller stops.
Tickets (all valid for use on metro, bus and tram) can be
bought from some kiosks bearing the green and yellow RUCH
logo, or anywhere with a sign reading Bilety. There are now
also a series of ticket machines with instructions in English
dotted around the city, and English translations are printed on
tickets.To save yourself the hassle of working out which ticket
you need or trying to buy to explain it to the lady in the kiosk.
A standard public transport single ticket costs 3.60zł but
will increase to 4.40zł in the new year. If you’re travelling to
the further reaches of Warsaw you’ll be needing a ticket that
covers both zones 1 and 2 - these are priced at 5.60zł (7zł
starting in January). Note that the airport is in Zone 1. Still with
us? Good. Tickets are also available for specific time periods
and come valid for 20, 40 and 60 minutes. These are priced at
2,60zł, 3,80zł and 5,20zł (which will increase to 3.40zł, 4.60zł
and 6.40zł respectively in the new year). Tickets valid for 24
hrs are priced at 12 or 19zł (15zł and 19zł with the January
increase) if travelling through both zones. Three day tickets
cost 24zł, or 38zł for both zones (30zł and 48zł starting January
1). Children up to the age of 7 years travel for free (have
proof of age ID handy). Everyone else pays full fare unless in
possession of an ISIC card. This entitles you to buy a reduced
ticket (ulgowy) which costs approximately 50% of the full fare.
You can buy single tickets from the driver, though you must
have exact change. Once you’ve got a ticket you will need to
validate it in one of the box-style kasowniks, thus activating
the magnetic strip on the back. On the metro this must be
done before you get on board. It is no longer necessary to
buy an extra ticket for animals
or large pieces of luggage.
Plain clothes ticket inspectors
regularly stalk the lines, dishing
out 180zł fines (which jump to
220zł in the new year) for those
without valid tickets. They often
don’t look very official and you
are within your rights to request
identification, or even do as
the locals do, and attempt to
bargain them down.
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Facts & Figures
Territory
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers
and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders
the Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic
Sea (528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km),
Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian
exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and,
Ukraine (529km).
Longest River
Warsaw is split by the river Vistula (Wisła). At 1,047km it
is Poland’s longest river and flows into the Bay of Gdańsk
(Zatoka Gdańska).
Highest Point
The highest peak in Poland is Rysy (2,499 metres) found
in the Tatra mountains in the south of Poland.
Population (2011)
Poland: 38,538,447
Warsaw: 1,708,491
Kraków: 759,137
Łódź: 728,892
Wrocław: 631,235
Poznań: 554,696
Gdańsk: 460,517
Katowice: 310,764
Local time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Warsaw it’s 11:00 in
London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo.
Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the
last Sundays of March and October.
Climate
Poland has a temperate climate with hot summers and
cold winters. Seasons tend to be more pronounced than
in the west and temperatures can get down as low as -20
C in winter and as high as +30 C in summer. The coldest
weather tends to hit around February although the long
winter of 2009/10 saw a record low temperature in Poland
of -32 degrees. Below is a graphic showing average
temperatures and rainfall.
Customs
If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take
10 litres of spirits, 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer.
Most countries will not allow more than 800 cigarettes from
Poland. If purchasing art or books, you need to consider their
age and value. In order to leave the country, art must be both
less than 50 years old and under a certain value (varies
depending by type; photos ‹6,000zł, other art ‹14,000zł, for
example); if these conditions are met, the gallery curator can
then provide you with a ‘zaświadczenie’ (permission document)
describing the artwork’s price and when and where it
was created. If the work exceeds the permitted age or value,
you must get permission from the ‘Wojewódzki Konserwator
Zabytków’ (Regional Curator’s Office) to take it out of Poland;
bear in mind that this process will likely take 2-3 months.
Books must be less than 100 years old and under 6,000zł in
value in order to leave the country; if neither applies, permission
must be obtained from the National Library. Obviously,
problems arise when purchases are made at bazaars or flea
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
BASICS
markets where vendors cannot provide the necessary documents;
if there is any doubt about the value or age of your
purchase, we suggest you visit an ‘Antykwariat’ (antiques
dealer - see shopping) for advice.
Electricity
Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round
with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from
the UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug
convertor. The best place to pick these up is at home as our
residents Brits will testify although if you do arrive without
a covertor you can try your hotel concierge or reception. If
they don’t have one the best place to pick one up is at one
of the big electrical outlets often situated on the edge of
town. Our advice is save yourself the hassle and get one in
the airport as you leave.
Health & Emergency
In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or
public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for an
ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the police.
Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded to the
relevant department. English speaking assistance is not
necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic capabilities
of the operator.
Between June 1st and September 30th English, German and
Russian speakers have the option of using a separate line
specifically designed for foreigners in distress: dial 800 200
300 from a land-line or 608 599 999 from a mobile phone
for troubles during high-tourist season.
If you’ve woken up to find you’ve got a raging headache, a
swollen foot you can’t put weight on and vague memories of
some kind of calamity we suggest you sort it out by calling
a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously
long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clinics can
be found in the Directory in the back of this guide. Further
help can be provided by embassies and consulates, a list
of which can also be found in the Directory. If it’s a financial
emergency your hopes will rest on a Western Union money
transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus (kantors)
can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out
for the Western Union logo.
For a list of clinics and hospitals check the directory section
at the back of this guide.
Climate
Rainfall (mm)
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
Rainfall
Temperature
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
Institute of Meteorology and Water Management,
www.imgw.pl
December 2012 - January 2013
20
18
16
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
0
Temperature (°C)
17

18 BASICS BASICS 19
Market values
Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices.
Market values as of November 23, 2012
based on €1 = 4.07zł
Product Price (zł) Price (€)
McDonald's Big Mac 9.10 zł € 2.24
Snickers 1.89 zł € 0.46
0.5ltr vodka (shop) 20.90 zł € 5.14
0.5ltr beer (shop) 3.24 zł € 0.80
0.5ltr beer (bar) 9.00 zł € 2.21
Loaf of white bread 2.89 zł € 0.71
20 Marlboros 12.60 zł € 3.10
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.92 zł € 1.45
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 3.60 zł € 0.88
Internet
Internet access is typically free and widely available in Poland,
with practically every café and restaurant offering wi-fi to
customers with laptops and smartphones. Getting on the
network often requires nothing more than a password, which
you can request of your favorite bartender or barista with a
simple, “Poproszę o hasło do internetu” If you don’t have
your own gadgets we offer a few Internet cafe options below.
Arena B-4, Pl. Defilad 1 (Metro Station Center), tel.
(+48) 22 620 80 32. Also at (F-4) Pl. Konstytucji 5. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. 6zł/hour, 10zł/2 hours,
18zł/4 hours.
Cyber Cafe ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (in Courtyard by Marriott),
tel. (+48) 22 650 01 72, www.courtyardwarsawairport.com.
Poland’s best internet cafe. Seating sixty people
the Courtyard Cyber Cafe offers high-speed wireless access,
as well as a menu that puts most Warsaw cafes to shame.
20zł per hour. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.
Law & Order
In general Warsaw is far safer than most Western cities, and
visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does
exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets
working tram and bus routes by the train station. If you’re
in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser
pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those
travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park.
Avoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi gits by using
clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind around
the train station and airport. The officially sanctioned state
company MPT (tel. 22 19191) is possibly the best bet, and
their switchboard features English speaking operators. The
vagrants and pondlife who gather around the train station are
by in large harmless and easily ignored. Warsaw’s right bank
has traditionally enjoyed something of a no-go reputation,
though is now fast becoming ever more trendy.
Staying on the right side of the law is significantly easier for
tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket
fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to make an
idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in front of the law.
In recent years visitors ranging from folks in Chewbacca
costumes to complete fools who’ve thought it’s perfectly acceptable
to drop trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain
have tested the patience of the local law enforcement. Their
tolerance threshold is now decidedly low so don’t push your
luck. Those who do may well be treated to a trip to Warsaw’s
premier drunk tank (ul. Kolska 2/4), a chastening experience
which will set you back 250zł for a 6-24 hour stay. In return
for your cash expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas
and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Those
resisting arrest may well find themselves strapped down
to a bed, One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest-style. Refreshment
comes in the form of limitless coffee, though the mug
sometimes comes with a smell of urine for a reason. Credit
cards not accepted.
The other well-known ways tourists can cross cops is by
jaywalking. If you are from a country which has no (or doesn’t
respect) jaywalking laws, you’ll be surprised to see a crowd
of people standing obediently at a crossing waiting for the
lights to change. This peculiarity has extra effect if you are
aware of how little Poles respect the rules of the road in a
vehicle, where it often feels like a survival of the fittest. The
reason for the obedience of this particular rule is the fact that
the local city police (Straż Miejska) will quite freely give you a
100zł fine for crossing a road at a place where no crossing
is marked or a 100zł fine when the ‘walk’ light is red. And
don’t think you are exempt by being a foreign visitor. You are
subject to the law too and your non-residency means you will
need to pay the fine on the spot.
Money
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the
100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops,
newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional fast food
franchise and bar, will refuse to break a large note for you.
As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for such
moments. Notes come in denominations of 200, 100, 50,
20 and 10 złotys, and there are 1, 2 and 5 złoty coins. One
złoty equals 100 groszy which come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and
50 groszy coins.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and
anywhere with a sign proclaiming it to be a Kantor and you
will also be able to withdraw currency at a bankomat using
your ATM card. A Kantor will often provide better value than
the banks in your home country or the ATM although for
obvious reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports,
bus stations and close to tourist sights. Shopping around
will reward you with the best rate. The Polish currency has
been exceedingly strong in recent years and the value of
Quick Currency Convertor
PLN US$ Euro Pound
3.16zł = $1 4.07zł = €1 5.04zł = £1
1 zł $0.32 € 0.25 £0.20
2 zł $0.63 € 0.49 £0.40
3 zł $0.95 € 0.74 £0.60
4 zł $1.27 € 0.98 £0.79
5 zł $1.58 € 1.23 £0.99
6 zł $1.90 € 1.47 £1.19
7 zł $2.22 € 1.72 £1.39
8 zł $2.53 € 1.97 £1.59
9 zł $2.85 € 2.21 £1.79
10 zł $3.16 € 2.46 £1.98
20 zł $6.33 € 4.91 £3.97
50 zł $15.82 € 12.29 £9.92
100 zł $31.65 € 24.57 £19.84
150 zł $47.47 € 36.86 £29.76
200 zł $63.29 € 49.14 £39.68
250 zł $79.11 € 61.43 £49.60
1 000 zł $316.46 € 245.70 £198.41
National Holidays
December 25 First Day of Christmas
December 26 Second Day of Christmas
January 1, 2013 New Year’s Day
January 6, 2013 Three Kings
March 31, 2013 Easter Sunday
April 1 Easter Monday
May 1 Labour Day
May 3 Constitution Day (May 3, 1791)
May 19, 2013 Pentecost Sunday
May 30, 2013 Corpus Christi
August 15 Assumption of the Blessed Virgin
Mary, also Polish Army Day
November 1 All Saints’ Day
November 11 Independence Day (Nov 11, 1918)
the dollar has nearly halved while you will be getting 25-
40% less złoty for your euros and sterling than a couple of
years back. Having said that prices for food, drink, cultural
venues and transport still remain comparatively cheap
in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the theatre or
cinema will rarely cost more than 20zł while admission to
most museums costs around 5-10zł.
Post
Central Post Office (Urząd Pocztowy Warszawa
1) A-3, ul. Świętokrzyska 31/33, tel. (+48) 22 505 33
20, www.poczta-polska.pl. Q Open 24hrs.
Post Office (Urząd Pocztowy Warszawa 15) C-4,
Pl. Trzech Krzyży 13, tel. (+48) 22 629 72 69, www.
poczta-polska.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Religion
For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of
Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions
and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national
unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many
turned to the church for solace and during the communist
era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously
held in churches.
The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine
source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more
profound than cynics in the West can understand. Many Poles
genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly started
the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe.
Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholicism
very seriously. Those used to the more easy-going habits of
the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at
first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that
occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass.
Toilets
Generally speaking toilets in Poland come marked with a
circle for women, and a triangle for men. Although the habit
is gradually dying some restaurants and bars still charge
a nominal fee for use of their facilities - no matter how
much cash you’ve already spent in the establishment. This
is a practice also used in train stations and most public
conveniences.
2theloo A/B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 54 (Warszawa Centralna
Train Station), www.2theloo.com.
Toilet C-4, ul. Krucza 51.
Toilet B-1, ul. Krzywe Koło 22/24.
Language Smarts
Many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy
command of the English language. Many are also
adept at other European languages with German being
the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will fiercely
contest that they have ’forgotten’ the Russian taught
to them at school but most will still have a reasonable
understanding.
Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal,
often resulting in personal degradation as shop
assistants laugh at your flustered attempts. That aside,
learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in
Kraków and may even win you friends and admirers.
On the downside, Polish is one of the most difficult
languages for native English speakers to learn. On the
upside, unlike in English, words in Polish are spelled
the way they are pronounced. This is a great help once
you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of
letters. While many letters represent the same sounds
as they do in English, below we have listed those
particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and
phrases. Powodzenia (good luck)!
Basic pronunciation:
’ą’ sounds like ’on’ in the French ’bon’
’ę’ sounds like ’en’ as in the French ’bien’
’ó’ is an open ’o’ sound like ’oo’ in ’boot’
’c’ like the ’ts’ in ’bits’’
’j’ like the ’y’ in ’yeah’
’w’ is pronounced like the English ’v’
’ł’ like the ’w’ in ’win’
’ń’ like the ’ny’ in ’canyon’
’cz’ and ’ć’ like the ’ch’ in ’beach’
’dz’ like the ’ds’ in ’beds’
’rz’ and ’ż’ like the ’su’ in ’treasure’
’sz’ and ’ś’ like the ’sh’ in ’ship’
’drz’ like the ’g’ in ’George’
’r’ is always rolled
Yes Tak (Tahk)
No Nie (Nyeh)
Hi/Bye (informal) Cześć (Cheshch)
Hello/Good day
(formal)
Dzień dobry (Jen doh-bri)
Good evening
(formal)
Dobry wieczór (Doh-bri vyeh-choor)
Good-bye Do widzenia (Doh veet-zen-ya)
Good Night Dobranoc (Doh-brah-noats)
Please Proszę (Prosheh)
Thank you Dziękuję (Jen-koo-yeh)
Excuse me/Sorry Przepraszam (Psheh-prasham)
My name is... Mam na imię... (Mam nah ee-myeh…)
I’m from England. Jestem z Anglii (Yehstem zanglee)
Do you speak Czy mówisz po (Che moo-veesh po
English? angielsku? an-gyel-skoo?)
I don’t speak Nie mówię po (Nyeh moo-vyeh po
Polish.
polsku.
pol-skoo.)
I don’t understand. Nie rozumiem. (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)
Two beers, please. Dwa piwa proszę. (Dvah peevah prosheh.)
Cheers! Na zdrowie! (Nah zdrovyeh!)
Where are the
toilets?
Gdzie są toalety? (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih)
You are beautiful. Jesteś piękna. (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)
I love you. Kocham cię. (Ko-hahm chuh.)
Please take me Proszę zabierz mnie (Prosheh za-byesh
home.
do domu. mnyeh doh doh-moo.)
Call me! Zadzwoń do mnie! (Zads-dvoan doh
mnyeh!)
Airport Lotnisko (Lot-nees-ko)
Train station Dworzec PKP (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)
Bus station Dworzec PKS (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah
Ess)
One ticket to… Jeden bilet do… (Yeh-den bee-let doh…)
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
December 2012 - January 2013

20 CULTURE & EVENTS
Art galleries
Klima Bocheńska’s Gallery (Galeria Klimy
Bocheńskiej) H-1, ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, tel. (+48)
601 51 17 13, www.bochenskagallery.pl.QOpen
12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Admission free.
Kordegarda B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 15/17,
tel. (+48) 22 421 01 25, www.kordegarda.org.Q Open
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Stairs Gallery (Galeria Schody) C-3, ul. Nowy Świat
39, tel. (+48) 22 828 89 43, www.galeriaschody.pl.
Q Open 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
The Place of the Zachęta Project C-3, ul.
Gałczyńskiego 3, tel. (+48) 22 826 01 36, www.zacheta.art.pl.QOpen
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Zachęta National Gallery of Art (Zachęta Narodowa
Galeria Sztuki) B-3, Pl. Małachowskiego 3,
tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta.art.pl.QOpen
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł, Thu free.
Cinemas
Femina A-2, Al. Solidarności 115, tel. (+48) 22 654
45 45, www.helios.pl.Q Box office open 09:30 - 21:15.
Tickets 16-27zł, Tue, Thu 15zł.
IMAX ul. Powsińska 31 (Sadyba), tel. (+48) 22 550 33
33, www.kinoimax.pl.Q Box office open from 30 minutes
before the first showtime to 15 minutes after last showtime.
Tickets 25-34zł.
Kino.Lab G-4, Ujazdowski Castle (Centrum Sztuki
Współczesnej), ul. Jazdów 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71
ext. 135, www.kinolab.art.pl.Q Tickets 7-14zł. Box office
open from 12:00 to 15 minutes after last show. Mon open
30 minutes before the showtime.
Multikino Złote Tarasy A-4, ul. Złota 59, tel. (+48)
22 201 16 10, www.multikino.pl. Also on Al. Ken 60
(Ursynów), Wola Park, ul. Górczewska 124 (Wola), Centrum
Targówek, ul. Głębocka 15 (Targówek). Q Box office open
from 15 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes
after last showtime. Tickets 18-32zł.
Cultural Centres
History Meeting House (Dom Spotkań z Historią)
C-2, ul. Karowa 20, tel. (+48) 22 255 05 05, www.dsh.
waw.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon. Admission free.
Mazovia Region Centre of Culture and Arts
(Mazowieckie Centrum Kultury i Sztuki) A-3, ul.
Elektoralna 12, tel. (+48) 22 586 42 00, www.mckis.
waw.pl.QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Price
depending on event.
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/
CSW) (Centrum Sztuki Współczesnej Zamek
Ujazdowski) G-4, ul. Jazdów 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 64
08, www.csw.art.pl.QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 -
21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, Thu free.
Opera Stages
Great Theatre - National Opera (Teatr Wielki -
Opera Narodowa) B-2, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22
826 50 19, www.teatrwielki.pl.QBox office open 09:00
- 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Tickets 25-145zł.
Philharmonics
National Philharmonic (Filharmonia Narodowa)
B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 10, tel. (+48) 22 551 71 28,
www.filharmonia.pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 14:00,
15:00 - 19:00, Sun depending on the repertoire. Tickets
25-250zł.
Theatre Stages
National Theatre (Teatr Narodowy) B-2, Pl. Teatralny
3, tel. (+48) 22 692 06 04, www.narodowy.pl.Q
Box office open 11:00 - 14:30, 15:00 - 19:00, Sun depending
on repertoire. Closed Mon. Tickets 40-90zł.
Och-Theatre ul. Grójecka 65 (Ochota), tel. (+48) 22
589 52 00, www.ochteatr.com.pl. Q Box office open
from 12:00 until the start of the performance. Tickets
30-100zł.
Sabat Theatre (Teatr Sabat) B-4, ul. Foksal 16, tel.
(+48) 22 826 23 55 ext. 20, www.teatr-sabat.pl.Q
Box office open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Tickets 90-240zł.
Square Theatre (Teatr Kwadrat) B-3, ul.
Marszałkowska 138, tel. (+48) 22 826 23 89, www.
teatrkwadrat.pl.QBox office open 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 -
19:30, Mon 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 15:00
- 19:30. Tickets 30-95zł.
Theatre On Wola (Teatr Na Woli im. Tadeusza
Łomnickiego) ul. Kasprzaka 22 (Wola), tel. (+48) 22
632 24 78, www.teatrnawoli.pl.QBox office open 12:00
- 19:00, or until show time. Tickets 20-70zł.
The Music Theatre ROMA (Teatr Muzyczny
ROMA) A-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 49, tel. (+48) 22 628
89 98, www.teatrroma.pl.QBox office open 10:00 -
19:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00, or until show time. Tickets
30-150zł.
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Ballet
14.12 Friday - 15.12 Saturday
Moscow City Ballet
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 696 99
00, www.makroconcert.com/pl. In what is becoming a
yearly tradition, Viktora Smirnova-Golovanov’s Moscow City
Ballet group is coming to Poland once again. With dancers
culled from the best dance schools in Russia and Ukraine,
they will present their rendition’s of Piotr Tchaikovsky’s Swan
Lake and The Nutcracker. Q Events start at 15:00 and
19:00. Tickets 90-250zł. Available at Congress Hall box office
(Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
Concerts
01.12 Saturday
Imany
F-5, Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10. After Ayo and Zaz here is
another singer whose popularity in Poland is rising day by
day. An afro-soul singer whose hit “You will never know” is
sitting proudly on top of the charts as I type, so I’m told. Q
Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 110/90zł. Available at www.
ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Złota 59, B-3 (Open 09:00 - 22:00,
Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
02.12 Sunday
Thomas Anders & Modern Talking Band
H-4, Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A. It seems Thomas
Anders must like it here, he performs in Poland every year.
Giants of the 80’s, Modern Talking split a while ago, but
Thomas Anders still uses the material. For those of a strong
constitution. Q Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 70-400zł.
Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Złota 59 (Open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
04.12 Tuesday
Pepsi Rocks - Muchy
B-4, Hard Rock Cafe, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 22 222 07 00, www.pepsirocks.pl. Poznan outfit
Muchy were formed 6 years ago by Michal Wiraszko, Piotr
Maciejewski and Szymon Waliszewski with Tomasz Skorka
joining soon after. They list their inspirations as The Smiths,
The Velvet Underground and Republika and first recorded
a cover of “Nieprzytomna do bolu” which appeared on the
compilation album “Tribute to Partia” in 2005. Their first single
“Miasto doznan” peaked at 7 on the charts and a few months
later they released their official debut album, “Terroromans”,
album of the year on alt rock station Radio 3. Q Concert starts
at 21:00. Tickets 32/24zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and
Empik, ul. Złota 59 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
08.12 Saturday
Hercules & Love Affair
Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 4. A band whose songs go back to
those golden days of disco, their compositions characterise
the 70’s and 80’s rhythms of the famous 54 Club. Q Concert
starts at 20:00. Tickets 30zł. Available at Empik, ul. Złota 59
(Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
09.12 Sunday
Maryla Rodowicz
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656
72 99, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Rodowicz is the
best-selling and highest-earning Polish singer of all time.
She plays pop, rock-pop and folk and has been doing so
since 1962, recording 2000 songs, 20 albums, as well as
releasing LPs in English, Czech, German and Russian. 2008’s
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
CULTURE & EVENTS
December 2012 - January 2013
21

22 CULTURE & EVENTS CULTURE & EVENTS 23
Warsaw Chamber Opera
Warsaw Chamber Opera
(Warszawska Opera Kameralna)
A-1, Al. Solidarności
76b, tel. (+48) 22 831 22 40,
www.operakameralna.pl.
The Warsaw Chamber Opera
was founded in 1961 by Stefan
Sutkowski, who has served
as its Managing and Artistic
Director ever since. The company’s
inaugural production,
performed on the 4th September
1961, was Pergolesi’s La
Serva Padrona. Since October
1986 the Opera has performed at its own theatre, a
listed building dating from 1775 whose audience contributes
to the acoustic sound created.
The repertoire of the Warsaw Chamber Opera spans a
wide variety of musical styles and genres: from medieval
mystery plays to the operas of the Baroque and Classical
periods, 18th century pantomimes, the operas by
Rossini and Donizetti, as well as works by contemporary
composers.
The Warsaw Chamber Opera ensembles also give
regular concerts featuring chamber, oratorio and
symphonic music of various epochs. In 1984 the
Warsaw Chamber Opera established the Research
and Documentation Centre of Early Polish Music. It
deals with the research, publication, performance
and recording of newly-discovered works by Polish
composers.
The music of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart has long
occupied a prominent place in the company’s
repertoire. The Warsaw Chamber Opera is the
only company in the world to have Mozart’s entire
operatic output in its permanent repertoire and this
unprecedented achievement has won the Warsaw
company-wide international recognition. In addition
to this the Warsaw Chamber Opera has also
organized the 4th Claudio Monteverdi Festival, The
Celebrations to mark 400 Years of Opera as a Genre
and An Ode to Europe Festival. Q Box office open
09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun depending on repertoire.
Tickets 20-130zł.
20.12 Thursday - 23.12 Sunday
Warsaw Chamber Orchestra Concerts in
Royal Castle
B-2, Royal Castle, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22
831 22 40, www.operakameralna.pl. This special
cycle of concerts by the Warsaw Chamber Orchestra
takes place in the wonderful scenery of the Royal Castle.
Organised for the 20th, 22nd and 23rd, the programme
includes compositions by Handel and Bach. Q Concerts
start at 19:00.
Follow POLANDIYP on
‘Jest Cudnie’ was produced by Smolik while last year’s best
of ‘PRO-Fanacja’ collection was available to just 120 fans!
The crazy world of rock, eh... Q Concert starts at 18:00.
Tickets 80-180zł. Available at Empik, ul. Złota 59 (Open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
11.12 Tuesday
Pepsi Rocks - Happysad
B-4, Hard Rock Cafe, ul. Złota 59, tel. (+48) 22 222 07
00, www.pepsirocks.pl. This popular Polish rock band will
stop in Gdynia as part of their “Long Way Tour.” Their 2007
album Nieprzygoda (Unadventure) hit number one in the
Polish rock charts and was one of the best selling records
of the year. Last year saw the addition of Daniel Pomorski
on trumpet who worked on the latest album which translates
as Live in the studio. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets
60/45zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Złota
59 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
18.12 Tuesday
Glenn Miller Orchestra
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656 72 99,
www.makroconcert.com/pl. Without doubt the most popular
and still most in demand swing big band in the world. It all started
in the 30s, but after the founder’s death, his friend Tex Benek
decided to continue the project as The World Famous Glenn
Miller Orchestra, today they are lead by Will Salden. Their hits
include Moonlight Serenade, In the Mood, Tuxedo Junction,
Chattanooga Choo Choo and I’ve Got a Gal in Kalamazoo. Apparently
they have has more number 1s than Elvis or The Beatles,
so tickets will be going fast. Q Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets
95-265zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Congress Hall box
office (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
18.12 Tuesday
PEPSI ROCK BATTLEFIELD 2012 - Great Final
B-4, Hard Rock Cafe, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 22 222 07 00, www.pepsirocks.pl. This will be
the grand final of the Pepsi Rocks Battle of the Bands. The
winner will be chosen from three groups: Space Buzz, The
Plants and The Electric Lemons who have defeated all the
opposition in two previous rounds of the contest:acoustic
and electrical, now it’s the final countdown. Q Concert starts
at 21:00. Tickets 18/10zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and
Empik, ul. Złota 59 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
18.12 Tuesday
Smokie with Symphonic Orchestra
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656
72 99, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Bizarrely popular in
Poland this tour will take in 9 cities. Together for 40 years,
the one that gets everyone going here is “Living next door to
Alice”. We can only marvel at the prospect of that and other
favourites, name one - I dare you, being given the symphonic
treatment. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 80-300zł.
Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Congress Hall box office
(Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
19.12 Wednesday
Selah Sue
F-5, Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10. Know the Kinder Bueno
commercial with a vampire in Venice? If you do or you don’t
makes no never mind - the song used was This World by
Selah Sue. Her tracks bring to mind the neo-funk style of
Erykah Badu and Lauryn Hill and her voice is close to Amy
Winehouse. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 95-120zł.
Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Złota 59, B-3
(Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
20.12 Thursday
Disney - Fantasia 2000
Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, www.magicznekoncerty.pl.
This is a project which joins symphony music
with Disney animations, all parents of a certain age will
know what we are talking about. The schedule includes
Beethoven, Gershwin, Stravinsky, Dukas and more with a
120-piece orchestra and choir performing. Q Concerts
start at 17:00 and 19:30. Tickets 49-89zł. Available at
www.ticketpro.pl.
25.12 Tuesday
Harlem Gospel Choir
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656
72 99, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Yes brothers and
sisters, raise your hands in praise as the Harlem Choir
starts a new European tour. One of the best known gospel
bands in the world, they have played in Poland a few times,
but this year they come with a new repertoire including their
interpretations of Whitney Houston. Expect lots of energy.
Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 80-250zł. Available at
www.ticketpro.pl and Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00
- 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
31.12 Monday
New Year’s Eve Gala
B-2, Great Theatre, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22
826 50 19, www.teatrwielki.pl. 2013 has been designated
Verdi Year to mark the great composer’s 200th
anniversary. This concert will inaugurate proceedings in
Poland, the repertoire includes all the most famous arias
and compositions from Verdi’s works. It will be conducted
by Carlo Montanaro, performing will be: Katarzyna Trylnik,
Agnieszka Zwierko, Krzysztof Bednarek and Andrzej
Dobber. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 300-450zł.
Available at Great theatre box office (Open 09:00 - 19:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
30.01 Wednesday
Marina and the Diamonds
F-5, Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10, www.livenation.pl. If
the name rings a bell, it’s because this outfit have already
been busy this year supporting Coldplay. Now they are back
to play songs from their two albums “The Family Jewels”
and “Electra Heart”. The music is described as a mix of
indie pop, new wave, synthpop and electronic. Q Concert
starts at 18:00. Tickets 60zł. Available at www.livenation.
pl and Empik, ul. Złota 59, B-3 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
09:00 - 21:00).
Exhibitions
02.10 Tuesday - 17.03 Sunday
Everything plays!
G-2, Copernicus Science Centre, ul. Wybrzeże
Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.
kopernik.org.pl. This is the first temporary interactive
exhibition in the Copernicus science centre. Presenting 19
atypical musical instruments on which various experiments
can be made, come and play with the sound microscope on
which you hear objects which normally don’t make sounds,
like an ice-cream lolly stick!? You can also try to create music
by balancing your body and, thanks to even more special
electronical gizmos, you can hear how would you sound as a
robot. Sounds great. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00
- 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.
Admission 22/13-16zł, family ticket 57zł. (2adults+2children).
Use of the labs costs an additional 18/14zł.
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
December 2012 - January 2013
MAMY TWÓJ BILET.
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES
WWW.FABRYKAZESPOLOW.PL

24 CULTURE & EVENTS CULTURE & EVENTS 25
12.10 Friday - 31.01 Thursday
Art Beyond Time. Stefan Norblin 1892-1952
Poster Museum, ul. S. K. Potockiego 10/16
(Wilanów), tel. (+48) 22 842 48 48, www.postermuseum.pl.
This exhibition presents works by the talented
artist Norblin. Somewhat forgotten after his death, this
is a retrospective of his works seen in Polish as well as
foreign galleries. There are posters, graphics, portraits,
theatre costumes and more. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00,
Mon 12:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:00 - 18:00. Admission
10/7zł, Mon free.
16.11 Friday - 24.02 Sunday
Maurizio Cattelan - AMEN
G-4, Ujazdowski Castle, ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.
pl. After one year of silence away from the art-world,
Maurizio Cattelan and his works are once again arousing
questions regarding life and death. This is the first
museum exhibition after his well-known and successful
Guggenheim retrospective. On display at the Centre
for Contemporary Art, Ujazdowski Castle, is a selection
of the artist’s most important works in which he
investigates the deepest areas of human life. Q Open
12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission
12/6zł, Thu free.
Stołeczna Estrada
01.12 Saturday
The Great Illuminations 2012
B-2, Pl. Zamkowy, www.estrada.com.pl. As every
year come to Pl. Zamkowy to see the great Christmas
tree lights. This year the inspiration comes from the
literature of winter, the show will be a mixture of
music, dance and street theatre art. Everything will
start very innocently as among the crowd appear
fairy tale characters. Later the Winter Queen might
appear, she might not - if she doesn’t come, there
won’t be any presents or illuminations. It will finish
with a firework show. One of the most popular mass,
family event in Warsaw, the stars of this year’s edition
will be Natalia Kukulska, Ania Rusowicz, the winner of
a 2012 Fryderyk music award as well as Kuba Badach,
the Sound & Grace choir known from Poland’s Got Talent.
The star will be the ever popular singer Andrzej
Piaseczny who is sure to warm our hearts. Q Event
starts at 16:00. Admission free.
28.12 Friday
Christmas Concert
B-2, St. John the Baptist Cathedral, ul.
Świetojańska 8, www.estrada.com.pl. The
Christmas concerts organised by Estrada have long
a tradition and always take place in the churches
of Warsaw. In previous years the stars invited have
included Dee dee Bridgewater, Take 6, The Golden
Gospel Singers, Barnara Hendricks and Chick Corea.
The star of this year edition will be Angelique Kidjo,
one of the most talented and popular African singers.
Known as an “icon of afro-music”, she is also an
ambassador for UNICEF and has performed with the
exalted likes of Diana Krall, Carlos Santana, Peter
Gabriel and Erykah Badu. Q Concert starts at 20:30.
Tickets 100zł. Available at St. John’s Cathedral (Open
10:00 - 12:30, 16:00 - 18:30) and empik, ul. Złota 59,
B-3 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
For the Kids
05.02 Tuesday - 06.02 Wednesday
Disney on Ice
Torwar, ul. Łazienkowsa 6A. The latest spectacle with Disney
characters performing on ice has the theme of Christmas
from various parts of the world, presented by 50 modern and
classical Disney characters. their previous show Princesses
and Heroes was a huge success in Poland, get your tickets
quick! Q Tickets 60-150zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and
Empik, ul. Złota 59 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
Special Events
24.11 Saturday - 06.01 Sunday
Christmas Fair
B-1/2, Rynek Starego Miasta, www.jarmarkbozonarodzeniowy.org.
70 wooden stalls make up the Christmas
fair in the capital, even the President of Russia has visited in
the past, it must be worth a look. It’s an international affair
with traders from Latvia, Slovakia, Austria and Croatia arriving.
Come and sample the German Bratwurst and mulled wine,
Polish pies from Mazuria, bakery products and cold cuts. There
will be no shortage of music either, especially carols and, of
course, a huge Christmas tree. We will also have the chance
to enjoy national and regional presentations from Slovakia,
Hungary, Latvia and Austria and buy culinary goodies, tourist
offers and folk art. The Nativity Scene was built by the charity
Aid to the Church in Need and they will be also selling souvenirs,
Christmas decorations and devotional articles, something for
everyone. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
31.12 Monday
New Year’s Eve at Le Méridien Bristol
C-2, Le Méridien Bristol, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście
42/44, tel. (+48) 22 551 10 00, www.lemeridien.pl.
Here, again, you can choose between two restaurants: the
Marconi or Malinowa. In Malinowa you wil be able to try the
7-course meal prepared by Chef Michał Tkaczyk. The Marconi
will host a seafood buffet with alcoholic and non-alcoholic
beverages. The party will feature music played by DJ Andrzej
Piotrowski. Q Event starts at 20:00. Price 590 for seats in
Marconi Restaurant and 400zł for Malinowa Restaurant.
Reservation on reservations.bristol@lemeridien.com.
31.12 Monday
New Year’s Eve at the Hyatt Regency Warsaw
G-5, Hyatt Regency Warsaw, ul. Belwederska 23, tel.
(+48) 22 558 12 34, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com.
After a splendid 5-course meal DJ Philip will entertain us in
the Łazienki Lounge, where we can dance the night away. At
Midnight it’s all up to the Regency Club on the 5th floor to enjoy
the city Fireworks and toast with a glass of Champagne.The
Beverage Package, which includes red and white wine, beer,
all standard spirits as well as soft drinks, is available to book
for only 125zł per person, not bad. Q Event starts at 20:00.
Price 390zł per person.Reservation on (+48) 22 558 10 21.
31.12 Monday
New Year’s Eve at the InterContinental
A-4, InterContinental, ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. (+48) 22
328 88 88, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. There
are two restaurants to choose from here. The Downtown
Restaurant will have a buffet for 295zł per person or 395zł
with alcohol. Meanwhile the Platter will give us the chance to
try the menu prepared by one of the best polish chefs, Karol
Okrasa. There will be also live piano music and dancing till
dawn; all for 695zł. per person. Q Event starts at 20:00.
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
December 2012 - January 2013

26 CULTURE & EVENTS
New Year’s Eve
31.12 Monday
New Year’s Eve Concert at the National
Philharmonic
B-3, National Philharmonic, ul. Sienkiewicza 10, tel.
(+48) 22 551 71 28. This New Year’s Eve concert will
feature the Symphony Orchestra and National Philharmonic
choir conducted by Antoni Wit. He has invited Ewa
Biegas, Nicolay Dorozhkin and Henryk Wojnarowski to
the project; the programme of the concert is a surprise,
but fans of the aria won’t be disappointed. Q Concert
starts at 19:00. Tickets 90-230zł. Available at National
Philharmonic box office (Open 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00 -
19:00, Sun depending on repertoire).
31.12 Monday
New Year’s Eve at Basen
C-4, Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 4. The recently opened
Basen wants to surprise their clients with this New Year’s
Eve offer. Apart from a great party there will be concert
of stars, with Monnika Brodka so far confirmed. Warsaw
DJs will make the party swing and at 200zł, including
catering and a place to sit, the tickets sound like good
value. Q Tickets 100-200zł. Available at Empik, ul. Złota
59 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
31.12 Monday
New Year’s Eve Gala at the Congress Hall
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, www.estrada.
com.pl. Another great New Year’s Eve event organised
by the Stołeczna Estrada. This time there will be a concert
by Aleksandra Kurzak. An incredible opera singer and
soprano, she has performed at the most popular and prestigious
concerts halls in the world. For this unique night she
will give a wonderful concert with her guests: Francesco
Demuro, the great Italian tenor, Anna Dereszowska, talented
actress and singer, as well as the showman Maciej
Miecznikowski. The artists will perform with the Sinfonia
Varsovia conducted by the Russian Evgeny Volynsky. The
repertoire includes Puccini, Strauss and Lehar, in addition
to musical and popular songs so there’s something for
everyone. Q Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 100-350zł.
Available at Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00) and Empik, ul. Złota 59, B-3 (Open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
31.12 Monday
New Year’s Eve Gala 2012/13 at the
Sheraton Warsaw Hotel
The Streets of old Havana
C-4, Sheraton Warsaw Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. (+48)
22 450 61 00, www.sheraton.pl/en. For this very
special night the restaurants of the Sheraton Warsaw
will be transformed into a Latino-Carribean wonderland.
The splendid musicians and singers of ‘Cuban Melao’
and ‘Optimystic’ will create rhythms and melodies that will
make you dance until you drop. The aromas and tastes of
the exquisite Caribbean cuisine mastered by Artur Grajber,
the Sheraton’s renowned Executive Chef, will be a treat
for all. Meanwhile the long cocktail list has been based on
the finest recipes from the greatest Havana bartenders.
After midnight there will be a lottery with prizes and a
casino where you can play poker and black jack. For those
who want to stay the night, a double room with breakfast
comes in at a bargain 320zł. Q Price 795zł per person.
Reservations on sylwester.warszawa@sheraton.com.
31.12 Monday
New Year’s Eve in Polonia Palace
B-4, Polonia Palace Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 45,
tel. (+48) 22 318 28 00, www.poloniapalace.com.
Come and sample one of the many delicious dishes
from buffet called “Culinary journey through Europe”.
The drinks include wine from Chile and the party is lead
by the DJ in Bojangles Bar. Q Event starts at 19:30.
Price 450zł per person. Reservation on sylwester@
syrena.com.pl.
13.01 Sunday
XXI Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity
B-4, Pl. Defilad. All part of the 21th annual charity day
with events nationwide to raise money for various children’s
charities and medical equipment. Highlights will include the
‘light to heaven’ fireworks display at 20.00. What’s different
this year is that the appeal will be broadened slightly
to include a number of projects involving the elderly, but
as usual the main focus will be on collecting money to help
poorly kids.
Sport
01.12 Saturday
KSW 21
H-4, Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6a, www.konfrontacja.
com. Get ready to rumble for the latest KSW event where
fighters slug it out for the KSW federation title. The stars of
the night will be Mamed Chalidov, Michał Materla, Rodney
Wallace, Jay Silva and many more. Q Event starts at 20:00.
Tickets 50-500zł. Available at Empik, ul. Złota 59 (Open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
Theatre
02.12 Sunday
Phantom
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 696
99 00, www.makroconcert.com/pl. This is another
play based on the world famous novel ‘Phantom of the
Opera’. The audience are sure to feel the atmosphere of
French opera and will hear unforgettable compositions
of Webber and Yeston. With breathtaking staging, music
and a wonderful love story, it is well worth checking out.
Q Event starts at 14:00 and 18:00. Tickets 70-220zł.
Available at Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00) and Empik, ul. Złota 59 (Open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
16.12 Sunday
Merlin - A Different Story
Theatre on Wola, ul. Kasprzaka 22 (Wola), tel.
(+22) 632 24 78, www.teatrnawoli.pl. Merlin
decides to create the perfect Kingdom in Brittany.
Arthur becomes the ruler and establishes the Order
of the Round Table - as the sign of equality for all
knights who will sit there. This version by Tadeusz
Słobodzianek is a parable about betrayed alliance
and the decline of faith in the idea of the possibility
of universal happiness. It can also be read as an allegory
on Polish history at the end of the twentieth
century: the enthusiasm of the year 1989, the brutal
war in the echelons of power and the following disappointments.
It’s a play for everyone - for brainiacs as
well as audiences simply expecting an interesting
might out. Q Event starts at 18:00. Tickets 60/40zł.
Available at theatre box office (Open 12:00 - 19:00)
and before the event.
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com

28 WHERE TO STAY
Lodgings at a glance
Warsaw is a business
city first and
foremost, and occupancy
rates reflect
that. Prices dip the
moment the clock
hits Friday, 5pm, and
you’ll find some great
discounts available
if you hunt around
online. A good place
to start is at poland.
inyourpocket.com
where our Hotel Calculator scours booking engines for
the best rates based on your criteria (you can thank us
later). The Warsaw hotel market reflects the city’s image
as the corporate briefcase of Eastern Europe and
comes well equipped with five star offerings as well as
a new breed of options for thrifty travellers. Warsaw
now has a group of Golden Keys concierges and their
tips for the coming months can be found in our Ask the
Concierge box.
Here is a list of recommendations depending on what
you are looking for.
Local
Be King of the Castle by booking into Castle Inn, where
rooms custom designed by local artists offer a uniquely
modern angle to the Old Town setting. For something
more upmarket check into the Polonia Palace, a restored
art nouveau building bang in the centre. Or why
not see what it’s like to be a (wealthy) local, and rent out
an apartment - we vouch for Residence St Andrews,
class apartments in an A1 location.
Cheap
Team Hostel is ideal if you’re looking to meet up with
random travelers from around the globe, while newcomer
Moon Hostel is a little more upscale (flatscreens in the
rooms) and a little less backpackeresque. If you prefer to
party with the student set Fest Hostel is located right
in the core of the University district.
Lads
If you’re touring in numbers then go for a name brand,
all of which tend to drop their rates at weekends. If
you want to be central and close to the action then try
The Golden Tulip, Radisson Blu and Campanile. If
quick access to the airport is an essential requirement
then the new Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport
has you covered.
Couples
MaMaison Le Regina is the definitive honeymoon
experience, and right in the middle of romantic new
town. Not only are the rooms perfectly charming,
but the restaurant is the ideal place for a candlelit
dinner for two.
Splurge
The city has seen a number of new hotels in recent
years and while we can vouch for all the major hotels,
it might be worth taking a look at the price comparison
service hotelcalculator on the hotel pages of poland.
inyourpocket.com.
Cream of the crop
Hyatt Regency Warsaw G-5, ul. Belwederska
23, tel. (+48) 22 558 12 34, www.warsaw.regency.
hyatt.com. Situated right on the doorstep of Łazienki
Park, the Hyatt not only has all the five star trimmings,
but the biggest hotel swimming pool in Warsaw. By hotel
standards the rooms are enormous, and come with
easy-on-the-eye cream colours and huge showerheads
designed for that mock rain experience. Q250 rooms
(90 singles, 132 doubles, 10 suites, 2 Diplomatic Suite,
1 Presidential Suite). PTHAR6UFLGK
DCwW hhhhh
InterContinental A-4, ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. (+48) 22
328 88 88, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. A beautiful
three-legged structure, the Warsaw InterContinental is
nothing short of an architectural marvel. Accommodation
fits the setting, with spacious rooms using pleasant colour
combinations and including every facility one would expect.
Setting it apart from the competition is a fitness centre
and swimming pool on the 43rd floor, and huge residential
suites for long-term guests. Q414 rooms (336 singles, 336
doubles, 78 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). PTHA
R6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh
Le Méridien Bristol C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście
42/44, tel. (+48) 22 551 10 00, www.lemeridien.pl.
Breathe in history by booking a night in Warsaw’s most famous
hotel. The plaque in the marble clad lobby lists dozens
of stars and royalty who have chosen to lodge here, and to
countdown the facilities on offer would require an hour of
your time. Art nouveau is the theme and rooms feature the
classy ambiance of yesteryear. But for all the five star perks
and trimmings our favourite touch is the courtyard garden;
an oasis of luxury perfect for evening drinks. The hotel’s
floor by floor renovations are still in progress but fortunately
won’t affect guests. Q206 rooms (168 singles, 168 doubles,
37 apartments, 1 Paderewski Suite). PTJHA
R6UFGKDCW hhhhh
Mamaison Hotel Le Regina Warsaw B-1, ul.
Kościelna 12, tel. (+48) 22 531 60 00, www.mamaison.com/leregina.
Rated by many as the most stylish
hotel in Warsaw, the Regina is the bottom line in elegance
and comes set behind a row of pastel coloured colonnades
in Warsaw’s New Town area. No expense has been spared
in creating this luxury retreat, with bleached oak and marble
mocha used for flooring, and restored frescoes featuring in
many of the rooms. A monastic quiet prevails throughout
this courtyard centred hotel, with interiors featuring a soothing
combo of whites, creams and caramel colours. Q61
rooms (58 singles, 58 doubles, 1 Penthouse €, 1 Le Regina
Suite, 1 Presidential Suite). PTJHARUFGK
DCW hhhhh
Marriott B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. (+48)
22 630 63 06, www.warsawmarriott.pl. A hotel with
real pedigree, the Warsaw Marriott has everything from
Warsaw’s classiest doorman outside to award winning
restaurants inside. The accommodation has been home to
a long line of visiting nabobs, including President Obama. An
extensive program of renovation has recently seen all the
rooms upgraded and the beds are so comfortable you may
not wish to leave them. Little details include lemon shampoo
in the bathrooms, mini-bars complete with pipes of Pringles
and views that stretch right across the city. Q518 rooms
(423 singles, 423 doubles, 31 suites, 60 apartments, 2
Vice Presidential Suite , 1 Presidential Suite). PTHA
R6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel A-3, ul. Grzybowska
24, tel. (+48) 22 321 88 88, www.radissonblu.com/
hotel-warsaw. An excellent hotel with top-drawer facilities
and rooms themed on Italian, Scandinavian and maritime
styles. All come with dataports, free Wi-fi, three telephone
lines, safes and pay-TV, and there’s also state-of-the-art
conference, dining and fitness facilities. Q311 rooms (284
singles, 284 doubles, 26 apartments, 1 Presidential Apartment).
PTHAR6UFGKDCwW hhhhh
Rialto F-4, ul. Wilcza 73, tel. (+48) 22 584 87 00,
www.rialto.pl. Relive the days of Lempicka and Lindbergh
inside Poland’s original boutique hotel, a stunning venue
decorated exclusively in art deco style. Period furnishings
have been plucked from the auction houses and antique
stores of Europe, and all the individually designed rooms
come with Italian linen, DVD players and a host of luxurious
extras. If it’s available then book into lucky number 13, a
colonial pearl which Hercule Poirot would have loved. He
would have thought highly of the excellent in-house restaurant,
too, which has a special menu that offers the cuisine
of pre-war Warsaw for added authenticity. Q44 rooms (6
singles, 27 doubles, 11 apartments). PTHARUF
GKDW hhhhh
Sheraton Warsaw Hotel C-4, ul. Prusa 2, tel. (+48)
22 450 61 00, www.sheraton.pl/en. It’s all a bit Dynasty
in the Warsaw Sheraton, with lots of marble and gold plate
extras, as well as a selection of some of Warsaw’s best
eateries on the ground floor. Rooms are of generous size,
though to really feel like king consider upgrading to executive,
where perks include access to a great lounge featuring
complimentary snacks and beverages. Q350 rooms
(326 singles, 326 doubles, 18 suites, 5 apartments, 1
Presidential Suite). PTHAR6UFLGKDW
hhhhh
Sofitel Warsaw Victoria B-3, ul. Królewska 11, tel.
(+48) 22 657 80 11, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.
com. For years the Sofitel was in very real danger of
stagnation. Now this revamped concrete block finds itself
at the heart of the action with revitalised Krakowskie
Przedmieście on one side, and Saski Park on the other.
And, right in front, Sir Norman Foster’s Metropolitan building,
complete with its glass cased offices and designer
boutiques. So what of the Sofitel itself? Rooms are dapper
enough, fully equipped to deal with the steep demands
of the five star traveller. Ask for a business class room if
you require an additional study with fax and copy facilities.
Q343 rooms (160 singles, 170 doubles, 52 apartments,
1 Presidential Suite). POTHAR6UFLG
KDCW hhhhh
The Westin Warsaw Hotel A-3, Al. Jana Pawła II
21, tel. (+48) 22 450 80 00, www.westin.pl/en. A
top bracket sanctuary situated amid the skyscrapers of
Warsaw’s business district. The lobby buzzes at all hours
and a glass lift whisks guests to rooms decorated in warms
tones and ultra-modern fittings. Each comes replete with
dressing gowns and slippers, in-room movies and mini-bars
that will take a considerable effort to clear. Splash out on the
executive floor for access to a top floor lounge that features
gourmet finger snacks and champagne on ice. Q361 rooms
(345 singles, 345 doubles, 15 suites, 1 Presidential Suite).
PTHAR6UFLGKDW hhhhh
www.inyourpocket.com
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
WHERE TO STAY
Disaster at Smolensk
Poland hit world headlines on April 10th 2010 when a
plane carrying President Lech Kaczyński, his wife and
ninety four other passengers crashed by the city of
Smolensk killing all on board. The plane clipped trees as
it came into land, before turning upside down and plunging
to the ground. The president and his entourage had
been flying in to mark the 70th anniversary of the Katyń
Massacre, a notorious episode in which Stalin ordered
the execution of approximately 22,000 Polish officers.
For decades Russia had denied responsibility, and only
recently had steps been taken to mend bridges.
Strangely, the tragedy served to bring these two ancient
foes closer together and many Poles, at the time, were left
impressed by the sympathetic reaction of Putin & Co. As
with all high profile disasters speculation as to the cause
continues to be rife. The official Russian air authority report
into the incident laid the blame squarely on the pilots who
they claim ignored instructions to land elsewhere because
of the poor weather conditions. They also suggested the
presence and distraction of unauthorized personnel in the
cockpit as the key to the tragedy. At first this had been
thought to have been the president himself – a man who
once notoriously insisted his pilots fly against their judgement
and land in war torn Tbilisi – though black box evidence
now points to the intrusion at members of the entourage.
While Kaczyński had been widely forecast to lose heavily
in elections due for the autumn of 2010, the episode had
wider implications. Also on board were the first lady, the
head of the national bank, leading politicians and the heads
of the army, navy and air force; at a stroke Poland lost its
political, military and economic elite. Despite Kaczyński’s
unpopularity the outpouring of grief was unmatched since
the death of Pope John Paul II, and churches packed out
as mourners paid their respects. In the capital thousands
lined the streets when the bodies of Mr and Mrs Kaczyński
were returned, and for the next week the streets outside
the Presidential Palace were turned into a giant shrine as
people converged to lay flowers and light candles – on April
17th alone, over 100,000 mourners gathered in Piłsudski
Square to listen to a state service.
But even in death Kaczyński remained a divisive and
controversial figure. The decision to bury him in Kraków’s
Wawel Cathedral, the ancient resting site of monarchs
and saints, split Poles down the middle, with many
protesting the decision with the slogan ‘Warsaw for
Presidents, Kraków for Kings’. Held on April 18th 2010
the funeral was marked with a service in Kraków’s St
Mary’s Cathedral, before the coffins were transported
with military escort to the crypt of Wawel.
Since then however President Kaczynski’s twin brother
and his opposition party have openly accused the current
government of negligence and relations between Poland
and Russia have been strained by what the Poles see
as a total whitewash in the report of any Russian blame.
www.prezydent.pl
December 2012 - January 2013
29

30 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 31
Ask your Concierge
Dear Guests and
readers of Warsaw
In Your Pocket, I am
pleased to say that the fabulous
winter time is on its way. This is
my favourite time of the year as
we’ll have the chance to enjoy the
fabulous seasonal illuminations
along the Warsaw Royal Route,
which turns a simple walk into an
almost fairytale experience. It’s
also time for the Christmas Market in the Old Town Square!
You’ll find me there among other Warsaw residents and
tourists looking for handcrafted souvenirs, fur hats,
traditional Polish cold cuts, breads, cakes, marinated
mushrooms or simply having a cup of mulled wine, which
tastes just great outdoors when thermometers show near
or even below zero centigrade.
Looking at the cultural offer of Warsaw theatres, I would like
to mention the Roma Theater with its musical “Deszczowa
piosenka” based on the 1952 movie “Dancing in the rain”
with the legendary Gene Kelly. With its well-known story
and songs, this will most likely be the musical mostly
appreciated by foreigners. The Congress Hall of the
Palace of Culture and Science, where congresses of the
former Polish United Worker’s Party were held under the
communist regime, is now a stage for attractive concerts
and shows, including the “Nutcracker” and “Swan Lake”
performed by the famous Moscow City Ballet on December
14th and 15th respectively. You then have the chance
to see the Glenn Miller Orchestra on December 16th
and the legendary British band “Smokie” on December
18th. Recommendations would not be complete without
mentioning the biggest opera stage in Europe which we have
here in Warsaw. For me the highlights of the Warsaw Opera
House repertoire in December are “Madame Butterfly” and
“Oniegin”. January will be the month of Giuseppe Verdi with
“Don Carlo”, “Requiem” and finally “Nabucco”. Classical
music fans should not miss the Philharmonic Hall, offering
the opportunity to enjoy the music of some of the world’s
greatest composers performed by renowned orchestras
and soloists from Poland and abroad, nearly every day.
From the long list of Warsaw museums and galleries I
will only recommend one place not to be missed: the
Copernicus Center of Science. Named after the Polish
astronomer who first realized that the Earth orbits the
Sun it’s a place where you may carry out your own
experiments. Beware Saturday and Sunday can be quite
busy and involve queuing.
Dear Guest, if location matters for you, I’d assume you’d
stay at our Sofitel Warsaw, which has all the sights
mentioned above within a short walk, and is found in a
quiet area overlooking the Saski Gardens and the Tomb
of the Unknown Soldier. If you are not staying with us
please pay us a visit to try the splendid menu in our
restaurant where you will find your own good reasons to
come back. Finally, no matter what questions you have,
please contact any of my colleagues in other hotels or
me at the Sofitel for any information which we will be
delighted to tailor especially to your needs. We are always
pleased to share our knowledge and experience. Enjoy
your stay in our wonderful city - Warsaw!
Piotr Prasuła
Chief Concierge
Sofitel Warsaw Victoria Hotel
President of Les Clefs d’Or Poland
Upmarket
Hilton Warsaw Hotel & Convention Centre E-3,
ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. (+48) 22 356 55 55, www.
hiltonwarsaw.pl. Although only open since 2007 the Hilton
already feels like an established big shot on Warsaw’s four
star circuit. And it can’t be denied, there’s a hefty dose of
wow factor to swallow - from a breathtaking glass lobby to
the best (and biggest) conference facilities in the city. But
it’s not just about business. The hotel touts a gorgeous 25
metre pool, while the top floor executive lounge provides
diversions by way of DVDs, snacks, computer games and
private check in. As for the rooms, they’re just what you’d
expect from a brand like Hilton. Accommodation comes with
a stylish modern look, walk-in showers and flat screen televisions.
Particularly impressive are the corner suites, complete
with floor-to-ceiling views of downtown Warsaw. Q314 rooms
(303 singles, 303 doubles, 10 apartments, 1 Presidential
Suite). POTHAR6UFLGKDCW hhhh
Holiday Inn Warszawa (Mercure Warszawa Centrum)
A-4, ul. Złota 48/54, tel. (+48) 22 697 39 99,
www.orbis.pl. A trademark Holiday Inn (which will become
Mercure Warszawa Centrum as of January 1) with a location
hemmed in by the Palace of Culture and Złote Tarasy shopping
centre. Find immaculate facilities throughout, and a standard
just typical of the HI crest. It might look small and squat compared
to its neighbours but this hotel is deceptively large, with
a quick tour revealing designer boutiques, fitness facilities and
a beauty parlour. Q336 rooms (54 singles, 272 doubles, 10
apartments). PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhh
Novotel Warszawa Centrum B-4, ul. Marszałkowska
94/98, tel. (+48) 22 596 00 00, www.accorhotels.
com. A sleek silver skyscraper with grandstand views of the
Warsaw skyline one of the big pluses. Subject of a thorough
overhaul the Novotel Centrum gets points for both location
and size, meaning it’s not rare to find it overrun with tour
groups and conferences. Upstairs find revamped rooms
offering all the four star extras, including “Executive” rooms
(with iPod docking stations) and even studio and apartment
options. Q733 rooms (50 singles, 661 doubles, 12 suites, 10
apartments). PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhh
Polonia Palace Hotel B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel.
(+48) 22 318 28 00, www.poloniapalace.com. Originally
built in 1913 the Polonia Palace has seen it all, from a victory
banquet hosted by Eisenhower to the Miss World girls back
in 2006. The exterior has benefited from a full facelift, and
now dazzles amid its soot-clad neighbours. Slidey doors open
onto a grand marble lobby, while upstairs amply portioned
rooms reveal modern fittings among ‘made-to-look-old’
furniture. New 32” and 40” LED TVs and hotel-wide Wi-Fi
extend the modern upgrades. Pride of place goes to the
apartment, whose defining feature is a raised lounge area
with an oval-shaped window. Q206 rooms (198 singles, 198
doubles, 7 suites, 1 apartment). PTHAR6UF
GKDwW hhhh
Radisson Blu Sobieski Hotel E-3, Pl. Zawiszy
1, tel. (+48) 22 579 10 00, www.radissonblu.com/
sobieski-warsaw. The façade has a garish rainbow-colored
paint job, but fortunately this newest addition to the Radisson
Blu chain has a much more subtle interior featuring a
marble lobby, big rooms and fitness facilities. Rooms were
recently refurbished and are now sparklingly modern. And
we applaud any changes that mean this hotel isn’t going to
charge guests for Internet use anymore. Q435 rooms (60
singles, 328 doubles, 40 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite).
PTHAR6UFGKDwW hhhh
Mid-range
Boutique Bed & Breakfast C-4, ul. Smolna 14/6,
tel. (+48) 22 829 48 01, www.bbwarsaw.com. Quiet
and cobbled, Smolna is not a typical city centre street,
and neither is this your typical set of apartments. Apartments
suit all budgets, though the Queen - with a large
living space - is well worth the extra outlay. Accommodation
has been designed to evoke a real atmosphere
of home-away-from-home and features lots of flowers,
natural wood and personal touches courtesy of Jarek,
your host. Q21 rooms (3 singles, 16 doubles, 2 apartments).
THAGW
Campanile E-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 582 72
00, www.campanile.com.pl. Decorated with chequered
patterns and green and yellow colour schemes the Campanile
accommodation includes satellite TV and pristine
bathrooms. High standards and a central location. Q194
rooms (194 singles, 194 doubles). PTHA6UG
KW hh
Castle Inn B-2, ul. Świętojańska 2 (entrance
from Pl. Zamkowy), tel. (+48) 22 425 01 00, www.
castleinn.pl. When students grow up, grow rich and
can no longer stand hostels, they stay in places like
this. A dream of a hotel at the centre of Old Town you
can expect big rooms, all with individual decor - some
classy, some kitsch, all good fun - and - wait for it -
velvet doors. Best of all though are the rooms which
have the massive (and we mean massive) bathrooms.
We dare you to find bigger bathrooms than those on
offer here in any other hotel in Warsaw. Much like their
clientele the owners of this place have also graduated
up from hostels (they run the Oki-Doki). If this is what
becomes of hostels when they grow up, bring it on. Q22
rooms (3 singles, 10 doubles, 1 triple, 8 apartments).
TYHA6GW
Golden Tulip Warsaw Centre E-3, ul. Towarowa
2, tel. (+48) 22 582 75 00, www.goldentulipwarsawcentre.com.
A very favourable price to quality
trade-off here, with plenty of room, heavenly beds and
a warm welcome all part of the deal. However, our favourite
detail is the breakfast, clearly one of the best
in the city. What a spread! A hotel with big ideas that
is rightfully putting its sights on getting a fourth star
very soon. Q144 rooms (144 singles, 144 doubles).
PTHA6UFGKDW hhh
Ibis Stare Miasto A-1, ul. Muranowska 2, tel.
(+48) 22 310 10 00, www.accorhotels.com. More
of the same from Ibis: international standards at competitive
prices. Best of all, its location ten minutes
from the Old Town means that your immediate choice
is no longer limited to spending suitcases of cash in
the Bristol. Q333 rooms (333 singles, 333 doubles).
PTHA6UGKW hh
Ibis Warszawa Centrum D-2, Al. Solidarności 165,
tel. (+48) 22 520 30 00, www.accorhotels.com. Reliable
international standards, sensibly priced. Rooms come armed
with all expected mod-cons. Q189 rooms (189 singles, 189
doubles). PTHA6UGKW hh
Maria D-1, Al. Jana Pawła II 71, tel. (+48) 22 838 40
62, www.hotelmaria.pl. A small, family run hotel offering
moderate prices and prim rooms featuring random floral
designs. Q24 rooms (21 singles, 16 doubles, 3 apartments).
PTA6KW hh
Witold Pilecki
As far as assignments go, it
doesn’t get much bolder than
this one: get rounded up and
taken to Auschwitz on purpose
and report back what
is happening inside. Yes,
the camp most people were
trying to avoid was exactly
where Poland’s Witold Pilecki
volunteered to go in order to
find out firsthand just what
the Nazis were up to.
Who was this courageous
fellow? Pilecki was an officer
in the Polish military with
a long and impressive career that began with service
during World War I and continued in the famed Battle of
Warsaw (also known as the Miracle at the Vistula) that
helped earn Polish independence in 1920. His efforts
landed him two Krzyz Waleczynch (Cross of Valour) and
in the post-war years the silver Cross of Merit for his
work in the community. With the outbreak of World War II
Pilecki was once again mobilised, but the country’s swift
defeat at the hands of the Germans led Pilecki to found
the Taina Armia Polska (Secret Polish Army), one of the
first resistance organizations.
Pilecki’s idea to infiltrate Auschwitz took root while working
with TAP, and in 1940 he deliberately walked into a
street roundup in Warsaw and became inmate #4859
(under the alias Tomasz Serafiński) at Auschwitz. Inside
he wasted no time: in addition to organizing the underground
Zwiazek Organizacji Woskowej (Union of Military
Organizations) to assist inmates with extra food and
clothing and provide news from the outside Pilecki also
secretly built a radio to relay messages to his contacts. It
was these dispatches – detailing the state of the camps,
number of deaths and conditions of the inmates – that
were forwarded to the Polish government in exile in
London and onward to the Western allies. In April 1943
Pilecki escaped from Auschwitz, hoping to convince the
Home Army to undertake a rescue mission at the camp.
Unfortunately Pilecki’s detailed reports on the millions
being killed at Auschwitz were largely considered unbelievable,
and the British declined to assist the Home
Army in a rescue mission. Pilecki went on to serve during
the Warsaw Uprising, and following the end of the war
he essentially became a spy for the exiled government.
It was in this role that Pilecki was arrested in 1947 by
the Ministry of Public Security, tortured, and put on trial
under trumped-up charges (future Polish prime minister
and fellow Auschwitz inmate Jozef Cyrankiewicz testified
against Pilecki). Unsurprisingly Pilecki was found guilty
and swiftly executed by the communists on May 25,
1948 at Mokotow Prison.
Interest in Pilecki’s heroic story was stirred last summer
when Polish authorities began digging up a mass grave
on the edge of Warsaw’s Powazki Military Cemetery in
the hope of identifying his remains and subsequently
honouring the man. So far more than 100 skeletons have
been exhumed from the pit, which is ironically located not
far from the tombs of the very judges and prosecutors
who condemned Pilecki to death.
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
December 2012 - January 2013

32 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 33
MDM F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. (+48) 22 339 16
00, www.hotelmdm.com.pl. Occupying a spot at the
top of Marszałkowska most rooms in the MDM feature
grandstand views of Warsaw’s finest piece of socialist
realism: pl. Konstytucji. Accommodation comes with
plum coloured carpets and predictable three star comfort.
Q134 rooms (21 singles, 108 doubles, 5 suites).
THA6UGKW hhh
Metropol F-3, ul. Marszałkowska 99a, tel. (+48)
22 325 31 00, www.hotelmetropol.com.pl. For many
years this hotel acted as a reminder of what Warsaw Cold
War hotels used to look like, the difference to modern day
standards made all the starker by the re-construction and
re-modelling of neighbouring hotels including the Metropol’s
sister hotel Polonia Palace. Those days are now past and
the hotel has been scrubbed and rooms bought up to a
decent standard. For price/location this is now one of
the city’s better options for those on a budget. Q191
rooms (180 singles, 180 doubles, 11 suites). PTA
R6UGKW hhh
Sleepwell Apartments C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 62,
tel. (+48) 600 30 07 49, www.sleepwell-warsaw.pl.
Sitting above Nowy Świat, Warsaw’s swankiest tourist
stroll, Sleepwell has one of the best locations in the city;
in one direction are the clubs of Foksal street, and in the
other the stunning Old Town. Inside the nine rooms all have
home theatres, mini-fridges and giant LCD televisions, but
each one is decorated in a unique and sometimes jarring
style. One room features a murderous manga assassin
painted on the wall, one room has a glittery carpet, and
another has large fake roses romantically climbing the
ceiling. Reception is in a separate building so guests must
call ahead for initial access, and no common space means
breakfast is not included (though a discount is available
at Café Vincent downstairs). Q9 rooms (9 singles, 9
doubles). A6GW
Airport Hotels
Courtyard by Marriott Warsaw Airport ul.
Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 01 00,
www.courtyardwarsawairport.com. In many senses
this place, almost directly opposite the airline check-in
desks, is an extension of Warsaw Airport. People use
the superb lobby bar as a departure lounge, and for
those with an early morning start the big, comfortable
rooms here are as good a place as any to wait for a
flight. Fear not the noise of the planes: we slept like
a baby (as did our baby) even though our room had a
direct view of the runway. Q236 rooms (113 singles,
121 doubles, 2 apartments). PTHARUF
GKW hhhh
Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul.
Poleczki 31 (Ursynów), tel. (+48) 22 373 37 00,
www.hiexpress.com/hotels/us/en/warsaw/
wawwa/hoteldetail. Those wanting easy access
to the airport just short of sleeping on the runway
will find the brand new Holiday Inn Express to fit the
bill perfectly. Just three minutes away and accessible
via a convenient hotel shuttle, the Holiday Inn
promises amenities that are miss-your-flight worthy:
wifi and flatscreens in every room, a complimentary
breakfast buffet and a business corner for last-minute
work needs. Q124 rooms (124 singles, 124 doubles).
PTHAUGW hhh
Budget
BEST WESTERN Hotel Felix ul. Omulewska 24
(Praga Południe), tel. (+48) 22 210 70 00, www.
bwfelix.pl. Located over on the east side of the river 6km
from the city centre, the Best Western falls comfortably
into the Polish business/conference class of hotels. Having
received a complete makeover and refurb, what you now
have is effectively a very comfortable, brand new hotel at
extremely competitive prices. Handy if you’re planning on
spending your time in the fashionable adjacent Praga district.
Q227 rooms (96 singles, 120 doubles, 5 triples, 3 suites).
TYHAR6ULGKW hhh
BEST WESTERN Hotel Portos H-7, ul. Mangalia 3a,
tel. (+48) 22 207 60 00, www.bwportos.pl. What was
once a Start Hotel has been overhauled by Best Western,
transforming this concrete block from outside (a stark
new paint job that makes the building stand out next to its
grubbier neighbours) to inside (that new carpet smell!). The
chain seems to be angling for business travellers, and visitors
will enjoy new LCD televisions, laptop computer rests
and even slippers. We’re baffled as to why this makeover
only includes Wi-Fi on select floors, but cosmetically it’s
impressive. An ideal location for travelers looking for quick
access to the Warsaw Trade Fair & Congress Center. Q230
rooms (230 singles, 156 doubles, 8 suites). TYHA
R6ULGKW hhh
Ibis Budget Warszawa Centrum H-3, ul. Zagórna 1,
tel. (+48) 22 745 36 60, www.accorhotels.com. A super
addition to Warsaw’s budget bracket, this hotel is in the midst
of a brand shift so you may find yourself checking into an Etap
or, if the transition is complete, an Ibis hotel. Either way it’s a
winning formula here: bright, modern rooms inside a sparkling
white building in the quiet Powiśle district. The rooms come
with a simple design but your cash gets you all the facilities
the modern traveller requires: wireless net access, en-suite
bathrooms and cable television. Q176 rooms (176 singles,
176 doubles, 14 triples). PA6UGW h
Noclegi Okęcie Al. Krakowska 236 (Włochy), tel.
(+48) 696 07 00 40, www.noclegiokecie.pl. Magnolia,
one of Noclegi Okęcie’s three accommodations coupled
near the airport (the neighbouring two buildings, Pod Lipami
and U Jakuba are set up hostel-style) has newly remodelled
single and double en-suite modern rooms that will delight
budget travelers: free Wi-fi, an outdoor space for lounging,
immaculate cleanliness and enough distance from the road
to make sleeping a breeze. Breakfast isn’t included, but
the hotel’s nearby restaurant Totu (Al. Krakowska 236) has
reasonably priced Polish fare. Q46 rooms (25 singles, 26
doubles, 8 triples, 7 quads). PAR6GKW
Premiere Classe E-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. (+48) 22
624 08 00, www.premiereclasse.com. One of the best
budget options in the city, and as such often fully booked.
Basic, modern rooms come equipped with private bathrooms
and television, and the location is just a tram stop from
the train station. Q126 rooms (126 singles, 126 doubles).
PTA6UGW h
Start Hotel Atos H-7, ul. Mangalia 1, tel. (+48) 22
207 70 00, www.hotelatos.pl. Another hotel where
spending the extra on a premium ‘komfort’ room is wholly
encouraged. Doing so gains you digs in clean, renovated
rooms with functional furniture and wifi and tv. Cutting costs
gets you something altogether more basic. Q231 rooms
(231 singles, 106 doubles, 109 triples). TYHA
R6ULGK h
Apartments
InterContinental A-4, ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. (+48)
22 328 88 88, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com.
Luxury apartments aimed at the long-stay corporate traveller.
Guests are awarded all the privileges granted to those staying
in the hotel, including 24hr room service and use of the
fitness centre. Q78 rooms (78 apartments). PTHA
R6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh
P&O Apartments B-2, ul. Miodowa 12 lok.22, tel.
(+48) 508 13 59 95, www.pandoapartments.com.pl.
Good looking, modern furnished apartments in locations
across Warsaw - both centre and out. All sizes, and all
budgets, though with a distinct slant towards the higher end
of the market. Q60 rooms (60 apartments). A6GW
Residence St. Andrew’s Palace B-4, ul. Chmielna 30,
tel. (+48) 22 826 46 40, www.residencestandrews.pl.
Fantastic apartments in a wonderful, fully renovated building
in the most central location possible: ul. Chmielna. Not a penny
was spared in the decoration and kitting out of these places, and
the nice little touches that are found all over - from the marble in
the bathrooms to the fully fitted kitchens with washing machines
and dishwashers - will convince you that this was money well
spent. Free wifi and daily cleaning included. If this were a hotel,
it would be in the Cream of the Crop section, these apartments
are that nice. Q24 rooms (24 apartments). PTARGW
Hostels
Moon C-3, ul. Foksal 16, tel. (+48) 22 468 00 66,
www.moonhostel.pl. If it’s all about location then Moon
Hostel’s new Warsaw location is one of the best, with a prime
building in the heart of bustling Foksal. The 26 rooms range
from one to eight beds, some with ensuite bathrooms, and
in-room flatscreen tvs. The combined kitchen/lounge area
is naturally sparklingly new, with cushy leather sofas and a
foosball table ready for action. Ideal for visitors who want their
hostel to feel like a hotel. Q26 rooms (2 singles, 14 doubles,
5 triples, 3 quads, 1 Five-person room , 1 Six-person room ,
1 Seven-person room , 1 Eight-person room). A6GW
Oki Doki B-3, Pl. Dąbrowskiego 3, tel. (+48) 22 828
01 22, www.okidoki.pl. A charismatic hostel stuffed with
abstract art, bits and pieces from thrift stores and wacky
colour schemes. Rooms (and the reception area) are currently
getting a small refurb though they still don’t have numbers, just
themes, and have been designed by a team of local artists.
Take a look at ‘The Realm of Narnia’, like something straight
out of C.S. Lewis, or ‘The Communist Dorm’, filled with commie
iconography and scenes from Socialist Paradise. Kitchen
and internet also available for guests (iffy in rooms, always in
common spaces), as well as what the owners promise is ‘the
cheapest beer in Warsaw’. For something more upmarket
check into the decidely boutique Castle Inn, a second pet venture
from the same team behind the Oki Doki. Q37 rooms (1
single, 21 doubles, 5 triples, 60 Dorm beds). TYA6G
Team Hostel D-7, ul. Lechicka 23 B, tel. (+48) 22 868
09 68, www.teamhostel.com. Get recruited for Team
Hostel, a newcomer that makes the hostelling experience
rather plush with air conditioned rooms, free wi-fi and a location
that splits the difference between the airport and the city
centre. With easy access to public transit you’ll be in bunk
bed heaven here, where guests can choose from the private
two-bed option or the more communal 20-bed megaroom.
Be sure to test the staff’s insider tips to the city, which are
nothing short of comprehensive. Q14 rooms (2 singles, 2
doubles, 100 Dorm beds). TA6GW
Are you tired of staying in standard hotels?
Feel at home in P&O Apartments in Warsaw.
P&O Apartments offers you accommodation for rent
in the center of the City for overnight stays or for longer
visits and helps you to feel at home in Warsaw.
We offer professional service, quality and excellent
locations as well as competitive pricing.
land line +48 22 636 86 99,
mobile +48 508 135 995
e-mail: booking@pandoapartments.eu
Internet: www.pandoapartments.com.pl
For sun lovers we offer properties for
Sale & Rental on the Costa Del Sol in Spain.
Visit our new and modern office
in Marbella on Costa del Sol or call us
+34 663 652 145; +34951245424
Internet: www.pandoapartments.es
email: costadelsol@pandoapartments.es
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
December 2012 - January 2013

34 RESTAURANTS
Eating at a glance
Warsaw’s come a long
way and fast, and nowhere
is the urban vibrancy
more apparent
than in the city’s progressive
culinary scene.
The immediate postcommunist
obsession
with Italian has since
given way to fusion, sushi and - most recently - steak,
and dining out is now a truly international experience.
Disappointments do still exist, however, with gruff, ditzy
or plainly incompetent service being a common lament.
You’d think the opening hours we list are self-explanatory.
Not so. Venues will more often than not close their doors
if business is slow. Other ‘restobars’ often employ different
sets of hours for bar and kitchen - the times we
list in such cases are for the kitchen, and the prices we
list in brackets denote the cost of the cheapest and
most expensive main course on the menu. In regards to
tipping, either round the bill up or leave 10% - but only if
you think the service warrants it. Here is a selection of
recommendations depending what you are looking for.
Business
Restauracja Różana is an experienced local offering
that will impress the client and give you room to talk shop,
while Butchery and Wine recently won accolades as
the city’s top restaurant. For a more casual atmosphere
we’ve spotted many briefcases and ties at Socjal’s
communal table.
Cheap
The many Bar Mleczny canteens (Milk Bars) are a
legacy to the communist past, and while they’re cheap
you may wish to skip them unless you really are bone
broke and starving.
Couples
Solec 44 has a solid menu and a regular array of cultural
events and lectures that you can take your sweetheart to
(and talk about long afterwards) while Halka has elegant
date night interiors and a menu to match.
Kids
Hard Rock Cafe is always going to be a favourite and
they do know how to make your special ones feel special,
with tot-friendly food and plenty of rock memorabilia to
entertain them through their meal not to mention regular
live music shows.
Lads
The Warsaw Tortilla Factory is the place to prove
your worth to the team by guzzling lager from private
taps while noshing on the city’s best burritos. If you like
meatier fare we’ve got plenty of burger recommendations
like Barn Burger and Burger Bar to share while
steak lovers should head directly to 99 Restaurant
and Bar.
Polski
Eat Commie style in Oberż a Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem,
or for a more upscale take on Polish cuisine try Dom
Polski. Celebrity chef Magda Gessler makes Polish food
stylish at the popular Slony.
African
La MaMa A-2, ul. Andersa 23, tel. (+48) 22 226 35
05, www.lamama.eu. It helps to have an adventurous
appetite at Warsaw’s newest contribution to African dining,
where no one bats an eye if you order the baked goat head
or a pile of fried gizzards. Stick to safer fare like the African
risotto with beef and fried plantain and your stomach will
thank you - and be sure to add a Nigerian beer like Star or
Gulder. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (20-40zł).
PTAUEXSW
American
Hard Rock Cafe B-4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Is there
anything more American than sinking your teeth into a 10oz
burger stacked with cheddar and bacon while staring at the
jacket worn by Jimi Hendrix on the cover of Are You Experienced?
The Hard Rock Cafe has based a business around the
concept of unrivalled burgers and impressive memorabilia,
and Warsaw’s chapter is no different. The two-story venue
features a wall made of 675 guitars and menu items like hefty
nachos and barbecue ribs. The dark basement bar churns
out heaping drinks that look like they require two straws.
Even the bathrooms are painfully cool, labelled “Guns” for
him and “Roses” for her. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (33-115zł).
TAUEGSW
Sioux B-4, ul. Chmielna 35, tel. (+48) 22 827 82 55,
www.sioux.com.pl. Sioux interprets the American Wild
West as only a chain of themed restaurants can: cheesely.
Grab a Conestoga wagon booth or a table under a framed
photo of Chief Sitting Bull and peruse a menu that tries to
recreate life around the campfire with unimpressive ribs,
cold fries and a random selection of Mexican offerings like
fajitas and burritos. You’ll find a Sioux serving up cheap,
completely average food in almost every city of size in Poland,
and unless you’re a diehard wagon wheel fanatic, trot
your spurs on to a more interesting (and flavourful) option.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (20-99zł).
PTAUGSW
SomePlace Else C-4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton
Warsaw Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.
warszawa.someplace-else.pl. SPE has been serving
up some of the best burgers in Warsaw for as long as
we can remember, and a recent visit shows little has
changed: the Orient Express burger is a marriage of lamb
and roast beef doused in hallumi cheese and Mediterranean
veggies - epic and creative. The large, open bar
is capable of mixing up anything you can think of, including
a spicy bloody Mary to accompany the Sheraton’s
brunch, which is served here on Sunday. Recommended
particularly if you are sleeping upstairs so you won’t have
far to haul your happily fed self. QOpen 12:00 - 00:30,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (41-160zł).
PTAUEGSW
T.G.I. Friday’s E-2, Al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. (+48)
22 653 83 60, www.tgifridays.pl. The Friday’s experience
as replicated the world over, so no surprises to find
Americana aplenty and staff fitted out with bells, whistles
and other moronic markings. The Warsaw op features
decent burgers and, if you catch them on the right day,
some smashing steaks. By day a family fave, at night
it’s a bit more grown up with expats and locals, usually
in office attire, drinking shots and braying for cocktails.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (33-75zł).
PTAUGSW
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com

36 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 37
Breakfast
Not everyone has the pleasure of waking to a five star
breakfast, so it’s good news that there are early bird
eating options that go beyond foraging in bins. First
off, take a look at Żurawia - Café 6/12 is a legend,
and their breakfasts cover all the bases from bagels
to pancakes to something that isn’t too dissimilar to a
British breakfast. Down the road and You & Me also
attempt Brit brekkie as well as numerous continental
options. Not bad, unlike your pl. Trzech Krżyży options.
There’s always a crowd in Szpilka but go beyond a
croissant and you’ll be wishing you hadn’t got out of
bed. Subway have a bunch of locations around the city
and you could do a lot worse for something on the run.
Speaking of fast food, the ubiquitous McBreakfast
is on sale from very early at the easiest location to
get to, that being the one in the underground part of
Warszawa Centralna railway station. Irish breakfast is
available from in Bradley’s though for a true power
breakfast head to 99.
99 Restaurant & Bar A-3, Al. Jana Pawła II 23,
tel. (+48) 22 620 19 99, www.restaurant99.com.
Four types of breakfast on offer served from Monday
to Friday - from simple French (pancakes, croissants
and cakes, 17zł) to a Polish option (26zl) that includes
scrambled eggs with extras, cottage cheese and a sausage
and cheese platter. Q Breakfast served Mon - Fri,
08:00 - 11:00. PTAUXSW
Café 6/12 C-4, ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22
622 53 33, www.612.pl. Around 40 breakfast options,
including pancakes, bagels, sandwiches and ciabattas
as well as a not bad attempt at English breakfast (eggs,
home-made sausages, cocktail tomatoes, bread). Found
close to the centre, the outdoor terrace on Warsaw’s
main media agency street, is a great place to sit in
warmer months. Q Breakfast served 08:00 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. TA6GSW
Hard Rock Cafe B-4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy),
tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl.
Special breakfast menu featuring omelettes, pancakes,
eggs, juices, coffee etc. Prices starts from 9zł.
Q Breakfast served 09:00 - 12:00. PTAUG
SW
McDonald’s A-4, Al. Jerozolimskie/ Jana Pawła II,
pawilon 64, WPP (Warszawa Centralna), tel. (+48)
694 49 60 18, www.mcdonalds.pl. When only the Egg
McMuffin will do or it’s really early in the morning. Find
it in the tunnels under Warsaw Central Train Station. Q
Breakfast served 05:30 - 10:30, Sat, Sun 05:30 - 11:00.
PAUGSW
Subway C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 24, tel. (+48) 22 828
40 25, www.swiezo.pl. A fast breakfast option (think
handy egg sandwiches) when only on-the-go will do. Q
Breakfast served 07:00 - 11:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-11:00.
PAUGSW
You & Me C-4, ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22 379
03 79, www.youandmebar.pl. A range of breakfast
priced at 21zł featuring traditional French and English
selections or lighter fare like muesli and yoghurt, all with
free coffee. Q Breakfast served 08:30 - 11:30, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 16:00. PTAXSW
Balkan
Banja Luka B-3, ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. (+48) 22 828
10 60, www.banjaluka.pl. Reliable Banja Luka has
moved! Sure, their Facebook page doesn’t seem to know
it yet, but we do - where else do you head in Warsaw for
monstrous portions of the best Balkan food in town?
The more central spot means the city’s officebots have
discovered a great new lunch special, with 24zł filling
you with a new daily menu that sounds like what a small
wrestling team might take down: large lumps of roast pork,
pancakes with spinach, spicy fish soup and even baklava
for dessert. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
(38-49zł). PTAEGSW
Brazilian
Browar de Brasil B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 76/80,
tel. (+48) 534 60 09 90, www.browardebrasil.pl. The
large copper tanks are your first clue that this new two-story
churrascaria is serious about brewing their own high-quality
beer. The attire worn by the waitresses might throw you off
for a minute - yes, they are dressed in tacky, revealing faux
football uniforms - but the four in-house beers are worthy,
and carnivores will swoon at the ten different types of meat
that arrive on a giant sword in all-you-can-eat style for
64zł. Sure to be as popular as the flagship Łódź location.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (15-80zł).
PTAXSW
British
Legends British Bar & Restaurant B-4, ul. Emilii
Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legendsbar.
pl. Legends is settling gently into its rhythm as the thinking
(and eating) man’s football watching venue of choice.
Basically has two things going for it: good British grub
(a steak and kidney to relish is served), British ales and
Sky Sports (if the waitress can work out which channel is
showing what). What it needs now are a few pints spilt on
the floor and a few rowdy evenings to knock off the ‘new’
look. Find it a stone’s throw south of the Marriott hotel.
QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (25-50zł).
PTA6XSW
Burgers
Warsaw’s restaurant trends come in tsunami-like waves that
sweep over the city and change the dining landscape seemingly
overnight. The latest culinary fad to dominate the city
will please carnivorous folks: the two-handed burger is top of
the heap, and there’s no shortage of great establishments
slinging the city’s best patties.
Barn Burger B-3, ul. Złota 9, tel. (+48) 512 15 75
67, www.barnburger.pl. A success as soon as the doors
opened, and so much so that they’ve already relocated to a
larger space in the same neighbourhood, perhaps to make
room for the expanding waistlines of their faithful clients.
Decorated like a college common room with cult movie
posters and some random Americana, Barn Burger has
convinced plenty of coeds to ditch their diets and dive into
juicy cheeseburgers or even the aptly-named ‘Heart Attack’
burger (mmm, bacon!). Every sandwich is partnered with
chubby fries and a cup of coleslaw, and you’re a champ if
you can finish the entire wooden tray’s worth of food before
you. If you’ve latched onto Warsaw’s current burger obsession,
Barn Burger is the perfect place to play patty cake.
QOpen 12:00 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 21:30. (19-39zł).
A6UGSW
Burger Bar G-6, ul. Puławska 74/80. The space is
small and the lines are long, but Burger Bar’s simple list of
classic burgers makes up for what the location lacks (namely
sides and much of a beverage selection). Choose from the
chalkboard menu - we’ve had the juicy cheeseburger more
than once - and tell the chef your selection. If the only other
employee is on the phone he’ll ask you to pay later rather
than handle your money, so grab a seat at one of the four
odd tables and buckle up: this is a contender for Warsaw’s
best burger, and you’re going to need both hands and plenty
of napkins. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. AB
Prosta Historia H-3, ul. Francuska 24, tel. (+48) 22
870 13 25, www.prostahistoria.com. Prosta Historia is
almost superhero-like in its ability to hide its true identity.
The swank Saska Kępa location and bistro décor - butcher
block tables, carnations in mason jars, French music tinkling
from the speakers - make you think a menu of salads and
soups await. But crack the menu and you’ll see a selection
of creative burgers you’d expect to find at a greasy spoon.
The Bollywood burger arrives with curry and chutney, while
the more traditional Royal burger (which has the more typical
cheddar, ketchup, onion and pickles) is a revelation. Throw
in the fact that Prosta makes their own buns and French
fries and it’s safe to say Warsaw has a new king of the beef
patty. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. (18-58zł). PTAVGSW
Chinese
Cesarski Pałac B-2, ul. Senatorska 27, tel. (+48) 22
827 97 07, www.cesarski-palac.com.pl. The lunch deal
is one of the best value in the city, so expect a bit of a freefor-all
once the clock hits one. The food is a mix of Chinese
flavours, with more Szechuan than Beijing, though it’s this
lack of focus that eventually hamstrings this locale: there’s
just too much on offer. If they stuck to what they knew best
it could easily become one of the better Asian eateries in
Warsaw. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:30 - 23:00, Sun
12:30 - 22:00. (29-136zł). PTAUGSW
China Garden ul. Kazachska 1 (Wilanów), tel. (+48) 22
241 10 10, www.chinagarden.pl. Excellent food served in an
elegant but relaxed atmosphere down in the moneyed Wilanów
district of Warsaw. Unlike many Chinese restaurants the decoration
is tastefully done with tiled floors, lanterns and lots of reds
and blacks with an aquarium and fountain centrepieces. The
food is authentic with a particular focus on the cuisine of the
Jiangsu region and the menu offers a comprehensive choice of
dishes including a beautifully presented Nanjing duck. Of note if
you are visiting the palace at Wilanów, you’ll find it a 10 minute
walk along Klimczaka, the start of which is the left of the two
streets directly across the road from the palace entrance. It’s
definitely worth the walk and arguably even the cab fare from the
centre. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (22-59zł). PTAUGSW
The Oriental C-3, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw Hotel),
tel. (+48) 22 450 67 05, www.theoriental.pl. Exquisite
dishes at premium prices. The menu covers every kitchen
from Japan to Singapore, with the seafood earning particularly
high scores. Q Open 17:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:30.
(35-140zł). PTAUGSW
Czech
U Szwejka F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. (+48) 22 339
17 10, www.uszwejka.pl. This aging establishment,
equipped with Czech street signs and images of simpleton
Szwejk, is a bit of a Warsaw classic, and while it looks brash
and basic the food is fine and the portions are scary. The
GREAT PROMOTIONS
ALL WEEK
MONDAY
Tap beer half price
TUESDAY
Two gurmańskia pljeskavica
for the price of one
WEDNESDAY
Rakija‘s day
THURSDAY & FRIDAY
Fresh mussels
SATURDAY
Big butcher‘s swine
SUNDAY
Cooking school for kids
ul. Szkolna 2/4, Warszawa
tel. +48 (22) 828 10 60
kontakt12@banjaluka.pl
www.banjaluka.pl
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
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December 2012 - January 2013

38 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 39
ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. (+48) 22 826 35 01
www.buddha.info.pl
www.facebook.com/Buddha.Poland
steak is inconsistent, so best stick to ordering standards
like sausages and schnitzel, and visit in summer when a
terrace opens onto Pl. Konstytucji. Patience is a good tactic
to use with the staff, but there’s certainly no criticism of the
Pilsner on draught - cut the dismal waiting times by ordering
in steins. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun
13:00 - 24:00. (18-40zł). PTAEXSW
French
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino F-4, Al. Wyzwolenia 18
(entrance from Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. (+48) 662 20 45
55, www.bistrocharlotte.com. Sinking your teeth into
Charlotte’s pain au chocolate you expect to hear La Seine
bubbling past, but instead it’s your waitress bringing giant
jars of jams, honey and chocolate spread to dig into - this
doesn’t look like typical French portion control. This new
French bakery/bistro is already a popular breakfast spot, and
a communal table in the center of the restaurant is a genius
solution for the many solo diners ducking in for a pastry and a
latte. The service at this start-up is still spotty, but considering
the crowds it’s also understandable. Charlotte is the ideal
place to sip a Perrier and nibble a tart without feeling like le
snob. QOpen 07:00 - 23:45, Fri 07:00 - 00:45, Sat 09:00 -
00:45, Sun 09:00 - 21:45. (8-18zł). TA6UGSW
La Rotisserie B-1, ul. Kościelna 12 (Mamaison Le Regina
Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 531 60 70, www.rotisserie.com.pl.
Tucked inside the elegant Mamaison Hotel, this high impact
treasure presided over by chef Paweł Oszczyk will leave you
bowled over. Decorated with calming vanilla and caramel colours,
Rotisserie is a worthy indulgence if you’re looking to impress and
have the bank to do it. The chef’s tasting menu is the place to
splurge, with six courses of Polish/French cuisine that emphasises
seasonal foods, while the three-course lunch menu lets
budget conscious foodies get their hands on the likes of roasted
loin of venison, risotto and a rich chocolate chestnut mousse
with cognac ice cream. Recommended. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. (82-124zł). PTAUEGSW
Saint Jacques A-3, ul. Świętokrzyska 34, tel. (+48)
22 620 25 31, www.saintjacques.pl. Directly across
the road from the Warsaw Financial Centre and a few more
metres from the Intercontinental hotel, this French venture
is adorably quaint and well located. A range of well-prepared
French favourites (including frogs legs and snails) are served
amongst black and white floor-to-ceiling pictures of French
street scenes that make it easy to forget the busy city
speeding by outside. The lamb shank with herbs and truffle
puree and brunoise vegetables is their signature dish for a
reason, but we were equally delighted with the rustic savoury
crepes. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (28-56zł). PTAGSW
Fusion
Fusion A-3, Al. Jana Pawła II 21 (The Westin Hotel),
tel. (+48) 22 450 86 31, www.restauracjafusion.pl.
Beautifully presented food in the modern, if regularly quiet,
interiors of the Westin hotel. The food here is very good, if a
tad pricey compared to city restaurants, but you get what you
pay for, with everything being of a superior quality. Regular
seasonal specials based around particular ingredients keep
happy local foodies coming back for more. Q Open 06:30 -
10:30, 12:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:30 - 22:30.
(45-150zł). PTAUGSW
Theatro C-3, ul. Foksal 18, tel. (+48) 22 828 09 32,
www.theatro1811.com. Newcomer Theatro is easily the
most grown-up place on Warsaw’s busy Foksal Street. The
interiors instantly wow - and make you reflexively smooth your
attire - and show an impressive attention to detail in everything
from the stone walls to the immaculately set tables. Where
Theatro loses steam is its enormous menu; our waiter had to
be sent away twice as we pawed through pages of just drink
choices. “Fusion” seems to mean “everything but the kitchen
sink,” and the well-priced entrees can be hit (mix vegetable
salad) and miss (a gluey papardelle pasta). QOpen 10:00 -
23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (30-54zł). PTAGSW
Galician
C.K. Oberża B-4, ul. Chmielna 28, tel. (+48) 22
828 45 85, www.ckoberza.pl. Budget priced dinners,
pints of lager and a bubbly atmosphere come presented
inside a basic room decked out in dark woods. The menu
is all pork chops, potato pancakes and plates of animals,
and happily consumed by crowds who recognize a serious
bargain. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
(17-35zł). AGS
German
Adler C-4, ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48) 22 628 73
84, www.adlerrestauracja.pl. It’s been years since Adler
was touted as a top restaurant, but those who do visit will
find just that. Still popular with an over-40 business crowd
this circular haunt comes laden with peasant contraptions,
and serves up classic German recipes presented by girls
dressed as Heidi. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 13:00 -
23:30. (39-65zł). PTA6GS
Indian
Buddha Indian Restaurant C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 23,
tel. (+48) 22 826 35 01, www.buddha.info.pl. Buddha
really impressed when they opened up a couple of years
back giving us very good Indian food right in the heart of the
city. The decor is lush and extravagant, and the curries follow
a similar suit with a spicy slap that puts them at the top
of our list. The rest of the menu is monstrous, but helpfully
benchmarked with symbols for hot, vegetarian and even kidfriendly
dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.
(30-130zł). PTAVGSW
Namaste India C-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. (+48)
22 357 09 39, www.namasteindia.pl. What began as a
modest Indian-owned grocery store soon expanded into a
full-on ethnic restaurant and proved so popular that a second
location was needed to meet the demand for delicious Indian
cuisine. For office workers around town, this - the original
Namaste - remains the best, and we’ll agree that it simply
doesn’t get much better for Indian food in the capital. Better
still, the prices are set so low you can’t help but ask what’s
the catch. There isn’t one; we’ve tried pretty much everything
on the menu, and have yet to find a weak link. Consider ringing
ahead for takeaway because waiting times can be torture.
Also at ul. Piwna 12/14 (B-2). QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. (30-40zł). PUGSW
Namaste India Clay Oven B-2, ul. Piwna 12/14,
tel. (+48) 22 635 77 66, www.namasteindia.pl. When
Namaste first opened it proved such a success story a new
venue was needed to cope with the overflow custom. And if
you thought the previous effort was pretty good, then bow
down and worship at what is up there with the great Indian
restaurants of Central Eastern Europe. There’s no such thing
as a bad meal here, but to really hit the high notes order the
butter chicken - incomparable to any other curry in town.
Also at ul. Nowogrodzka 15 (C-4). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(22-40zł). PTAVGS
restauracja indyjska i tajska
Authentic Indian and Thai cuisine
prepared by chefs from India and Thailand.
Wide range of alcoholic beverages.
Special indian and thai lunch menu from 12 pm to 4 pm
at very attractive prices.
Ample space for organising private parties
and corporate dinners.
PL. KONSTYTUCJI 3, WARSAW
For reservations please call
TEL. 22 622 94 10, MOB. 797 597 100
info@saffronspices.pl, www.saffronspices.pl
Think India ... Think Namaste India
ul. Nowogrodzka 15
+48 22 357 09 39
ul. Piwna 12/14 (Old Town)
+48 22 635 77 66
Mon-Sat 11.00 - 22.00, Sun 12.00 - 22.00
info@namasteindia.pl | www.namasteindia.pl
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December 2012 - January 2013

40 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 41
Saffron Spices F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. (+48) 22 622
94 10, www.saffronspices.pl. Open less than a year and
Saffron Spices has already made big changes, shifting the
restaurant from a drab, undecorated space on Plac Konstytucji
to a two-story mammoth with views of the street and more
atmosphere. Fortunately the food remains consistently good:
the restaurant’s signature lentil dish is an instant favourite, pairing
deliciously with piping hot naan. The crunchy onion bhaji are
also a good pre-meal option, especially since the speedy staff
brings them out ahead of the main course. An additional Asian
menu of dishes like pad Thai, fried rice and various Vietnamese
dishes is now also available, but we’re partial to the Indian
staples. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (20-80zł). PTUGSW
Sheesha Lounge B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 3, tel. (+48)
22 828 25 25, www.sheesha.pl. Already established
as one of Warsaw’s most exotic nightspots Sheesha also
does a solid trade in luring the pre-drinks crowd in with a
tantalising menu of eastern delights. Almost every table
appears to order in bulk and share the piles of tikka masala
or riyesh, then caps the meal off with a fruity sheesha pipe
passed around the table for dessert. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.
(16-52zł). PTAEXSW
International
12 Stolików F-3, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 22 578
23 88. If the idea of a restaurant not having a menu sounds
pretentious, well, we thought the same thing. Fortunately the
concept turns out to be charming at 12 Stolików, a small restaurant
that writes the ever-changing offerings on a chalkboard
facing diners. Waitresses are happy to interpret, and though
the transient system means you might not get the delicious
tomato soup with pesto or handmade ravioli that we did,
FINE DINING UNTIL 24:00
their quality indicates you can’t go wrong. The high ceilings
and stacks of wine crates are all that pass for décor, but we
couldn’t take our eyes off the chef tempering chocolate on the
centre island - call it dinner and show. And we’re not the only
ones who think so: 12 Stolików was named one of the top five
restaurants in Warsaw in 2011 by Gazeta Wyborcza newspaper.
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Fri 08:00 - 22:30, Sat 10:00
- 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (14-80zł). PA6UGSW
Bierhalle C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. (+48) 609 67 77
65, www.bierhalle.pl. Bierhalle have 2 locations in the city
of which this is the more central. Located on the equivalent
of Warsaw’s main street, you’ll find bench seating, generous
portions of good food and a tasty range of in-house brewed
beers. Match a stein of fresh pils with something from their
picture menu which features local favourites like pierogi, pork
knuckle and kaszanka (a kind of black pudding) as well as
dishes more often associated with Poland’s beer drinking
neighbours; German Wurst, Austrian Schnitzel and Hungarian
Goulash. Simple, accessible and with regular promotions
make this a popular spot. Also at Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (D-1,
Arkadia). QOpen 12:00 - 22:45, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:45, Sun
12:00 - 21:45. (18-50zł). PTAGSW
NEW
Bordo C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 54/56 (entrance from ul.
Gałczyńskiego), tel. (+48) 22 622 00 68, www.bordo.
com.pl. Neatly tucked off Nowy Świat, this highly likeable,
popular pre-party gem just wants to make you happy, and
satisfaction is assured by a vast menu that covers all the
food groups from soup, salad and sandwiches to pasta, pizza
and grilled meats, shakes, cakes and ice cream. The drinks
list is just as thorough, the breakfasts are a standout and
prices are delightfully sub-Varsovian across the board. A
modern interior full of comfortable, creme-coloured booths
and a spacious downstairs means there’s plenty of room for
every young couple on a cheap date, and every gaggle of gals
getting ready to go out. If you don’t like Bordo, be advised:
life is harder when you’re hard to please. Also at ul. Chmielna
34 (B-4). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. (11-34zł). PiTA6IGSW
NEW
Brasserie Warszawska G-3, ul. Górnośląska 24,
tel. (+48) 22 628 94 23, www.brasseriewarszawska.
pl. From the fine folks behind the peerless Butchery & Wine
comes Brasserie Warszawska - a culinary capstone that will
surely court the attention of the folks at Michelin. Praise is
well-deserved here with exquisitely prepared and presented
cuisine matched by expert service in an interior that feels
both modern and classic at the same time. Dishes like ‘baked
monkfish with white beans, sun-dried tomatoes and chorizo’
are worth every grosz, but Brasserie isn’t above offering their
take on more pedestrian fare like the fish and chips special
on Fridays. Elegant and upscale without overdoing it, if you’re
looking to do some fine dining in the capital, you’ll be glad
you did it here. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sun. (35-75zł). PTAUGW
BrowArmia B-3, ul. Królewska 1, tel. (+48) 22 826 54
55, www.browarmia.pl. Warsaw’s other microbrewery tends
to mysteriously live in the shadow of the more famous Bierhalle,
and though it fails to share the lively atmosphere of its rival, BrowArmia
is by no means second best. The interior has a dark beer
hall vibe with all the requisite pipes, dials and tanks on display, as
well as a good menu that trounces the competition - the sticky
wings pair perfectly with a BrowArmia pils. More importantly the
beer is top standard and best imbibed on the seasonal terrace
looking onto bustling Krakowskie Przedmieście. QOpen 12:00
- 23:30. (27-66zł). PTAEXSW
Concept C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18,
tel. (+48) 22 492 74 09, www.likusconceptstore.pl.
It’s hard to do justice to Concept restaurant, one of the most
impressive dining experiences to be found in Warsaw. Found
inside a former pre-war bathhouse this place is accessed
down a gloomy looking courtyard, flanked on each side by
kebab stands and student dives. Don’t turn back. Instead
duck through the entrance to find yourself in a whole different
world. Decorated with glazed floor tiles, shimmery fabrics and
a skylight this place looks every inch a masterpiece. Keeping
up with the surrounds is the food, with a newly launched menu
that includes a near perfect steak. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
Closed Sun. (29-99zł). PTAEXSW
DeCoteria H-1, ul. Ząbkowska 16, tel. (+48) 603 60 22
52, www.decoteriacafe.pl. A small restaurant with a pleasant
orange interior, DeCoteria is one of the few clutter-free locations
in Praga for a meal. Thanks to that role it has a crowd that mixes
young Praga hipsters with moms toting strollers, all tucking
into a menu that seems to offer dishes from around the globe
(Hungarian-style pancakes with stew, for a start). We stuck to
the Polish fare and found the potato pancakes to be a winner.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (14-45zł). PTA6UGSW
Five A-3, ul. Grzybowska 5, tel. (+48) 793 53 53 53,
www.fiverestaurant.eu. Guaranteed a steady flow of
customers by its designer looks and top location amongst
Warsaw’s biggest and best hotels, this place doesn’t have to
be all that good, but is. In fact, recent visits have made us love
the place all over again, as the menu of simple Italian classics
always delivers a decent meal at a fair price. Look out for
the changing specials, which on our last trip included some
terrific grilled salmon with leek sauce. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:30. (19-49zł). PTAUVGSW
Concept 13 is located on the top fl oor
of VITKAC - the fi rst luxury department
store in the country. The bright, modern
interior offers breathtaking views of
the capital’s vibrant urban scenery. But
the architecture is not all – the cuisine
will satisfy even the most discerning
gourmand. The modern international
menu with Polish traditional accents
guarantees culinary contentment.
Bracka 9, Warsaw
tel. +48 22 310 7373
www.vitkac.com
open: mon-sun 11.00-23.00
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December 2012 - January 2013

42 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 43
Aleje Jerozolimskie 111, Warsaw
tel. 22 629 80 08
www.kredens.com.pl
kredens@kredens.com.pl
Flow C-3, ul. Chmielna 2, tel. (+48) 519 30 00
68, www.flowbar.pl. A light, bright cafe bar on the
corner of Chmielna and Nowy Świat, day time sees
coffee and a decent choice of lunch options served in
a modern setting with large windows offering plenty of
people watching opportunities. As day turns to night,
this turns into a decent pre-club option with guest DJs
coming in to entertain the young and fashionable crowd.
One of the few central places with an indoor smoking
area incidentally. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (19-40zł).
PAEXSW
Galeria Freta B-1, ul. Freta 39, tel. (+48) 22 831
02 35, www.galeriafreta.pl. Bar? Restaurant? Café?
A mix of all to be honest, and a highly impressive addition
to an area more known for its tourist traps. Landmarks
here include a glass topped atrium filled with plants and
posters, as well as a more formal chamber consisting of
antiques and gilt. This place is huge, and well worth poking
around, and while the design suggests dollar signs it
actually transpires to be a very good deal. Salads are a
particular forte, though more voracious appetites should
look to the king prawns. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (30-90zł).
PTAUEBXSW
Grand Kredens A-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel.
(+48) 22 629 80 08, www.kredens.com.pl. Few
places in Warsaw match this for a fine, dare we say
splendid dining experience. The decor is tremendously,
enjoyably eclectic, and the menu - with a terrific variety
of fish (amongst much else) to savour - well up to the
challenge of its rivals. It is not by any means the cheapest
place in town, but we would be fairly certain that however
big the bill, you will leave feeling well satisfied. This has
been around Warsaw longer than we have and it’s a treat.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (30-100zł).
PTA6UIEGSW
GR Bistro & Restaurant B-3, ul. Szpitalna
8 (entrance from ul. Górskiego), tel. (+48) 22
828 42 85, www.grbistro.pl. A two-level bistro
set on a quiet street just away from the hustle and
bustle in the centre of the city. A small downstairs
area connects to an intimate upstairs with black
and white prints on walls tastefully decorated with
striped wallpaper set above wooden picture rails.
The menu is concise featuring an international
selection of well-prepared and presented dishes
including soups, salads, pastas and meat dishes.
Good as a lunch stop, where the daily specials are
well-worth the few euro prices, it is a particularly
recommendable as a place for an intimate meal away
from the crowds of Chmielna with the food matched
by a good selection of wines and cocktails. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
(25-54zł). TA6GSW
Kosmos Kosmos F-4, ul. Koszykowa 55, tel.
(+48) 535 55 85 52, www.kosmoskosmos.pl. Do
tots and tipples mix? They do at Kosmos Kosmos, and
surprisingly well. This new bar/restaurant has an entire
separate play space just for kidlets, and it’s not just
colouring books and blocks either - think ladders, slides
and kid-sized tables and chairs. This basement space
doesn’t sacrifice on design just because it’s aiming
at families, so parents can retain their cool cred while
enjoying an array of well-made burgers, pastas and
vegetarian dishes along with that long-overdue drink.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:30. (18-36zł).
TA6EGSW
NEW
Meat Love B-4, ul. Hoża 62, tel. (+48) 500 14 92 10,
www.meatlove.pl. The audacious name would suggest a
barbarian bone-sucking, finger-licking orgy of dripping meat
juice (to us, anyway), but the reality is a woodsy, intimate, ecominded
sandwich shop that effectively reclaims hipsterdom
from the vegans. Meat Love’s specialty is fresh rolls and
baguettes stuffed with tender, organic, hormone-free carnivorous
delicacies, and there’s a good selection of teas, coffee
and other drinks to accompany them. One also can’t help but
admire the simple genius of their Belgian waffle topped with
pulled pork and maple syrup. The staff have all the hallmarks
a hip urbanite should: tattoos and studs, scraggly beards and
suave haircuts, but the atmosphere is family-friendly and completely
sincere. A great addition to the neighbourhood, in fact
it’s places like this that create the illusion pocket neighbourhoods
even exist in the capital. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (13-20zł). A6GSW
Na Zielnej B-3, ul. Zielna 37, tel. (+48) 22 338 63 33,
www.nazielnej.pl. You may remember this as KOM, an old
favourite housed in Warsaw’s former telephone exchange.
Re-branded and given a slight makeover, this has been immediately
installed as one of our fave places in the city. There
are in fact now three venues in one: a bistro, which is open for
lunch; a restaurant (both offering the same menu of simple
yet wonderfully cooked food); and a small shop where you
can buy traditional Polish fixings like preserves and honey.
Not cheap but terrifically good value, it is well worth a visit.
Take a moment to check out the remnants of the exchange
on your way to the lavatory. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed
Sun. (48-76zł). PTAUXSW
NEW
Nolita ul. Wilcza 46, tel. (+48) 22 292 04 24, www.
nolita.pl. You know you’ve hit on haute cuisine when the first
thing you see on the menu is ‘scallops with celeriac and squid
ink.’ Nolita is as upscale as they get, and yet the large, open,
modern dining area could just as easily come off as casual if it
weren’t for the excellent service from black-tie wait staff and the
superior quality and presentation of the food. Ease back with
your partner (be they for business or pleasure) and enjoy almost
100zł entrees with wine before ordering from their homemade
ice cream and sorbet selection. Then practise your poker face
when the check arrives. Q Open 12:00 - 15:30, 18:00 - 22:30,
Sat 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (25-109zł). PAW
Piękna 56 F-4, ul. Piękna 56, tel. (+48) 22 412 06
56, www.piekna56.pl. Neighbourhood restaurants don’t
get more charming than Piękna 56, a sentiment you’ll agree
with as soon as you spot the bricks with tiny plants growing
out of them that dot each birch table. The twee-ness doesn’t
stop there, but let the menu distract you; our cod coated in
sunflower seeds and Mexican tortilla soup were lick-yourplate
worthy, and the wine list is easily navigable thanks
to the helpful wait staff. We’d gladly suffer through more
bad dates if they all came with meals like this one. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
(20-60zł). TAUGSW
Piękna Bistro F/G-4, ul. Piękna 20, tel. (+48) 22 627
41 51, www.jazzzone.pl. Piękna Bistro went through a
major overhaul and reopened this classier spot in the fall.
The look is sleek, modern and simple now, but what hasn’t
changed is their very reliable mix of pastas, salads, grilled
meat and fish dishes, whose preparation and presentation
will delight hungry diners. A recommended venue if
you like your meal served to the backdrop of live jazz.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (29-69zł).
PTAUIEGSW
The new place on the map of Warsaw
Evenings with live music
The new taste of Bistro
with a large pinch of jazz
Bistro Piękna
ul. Piękna 20
00-549 Warszawa
Tel. +48 22 627 41 51
piekna@jazzone.pl
www.jazzone.pl
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
December 2012 - January 2013

44 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 45
Podwale - Kompania Piwna B-1, ul. Podwale 25,
tel. (+48) 22 635 63 14, www.podwale25.pl. Enter
via a mock Bavarian courtyard to discover a huge hall
filled with the sound of beery antics and oompah music.
The word here is size, with Warsaw’s biggest portions
coming within a whisker of sending tables keeling.
This is basically meat, cabbage and potatoes served
on huge wooden boards by waitresses obviously less
fragile than they look. Certainly the best value in Old
Town, with beer usually playing a big part in the evening.
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (20-50zł).
PTAUEGSW
Restauracja Concept 13 C-4, ul. Bracka 9, tel. (+48)
22 310 73 73, www.likushoteleirestauracje.pl. Tucked
inside the high-end VITKAC shopping center, Restauracja
Concept 13 lives up to its luxurious location with soaring fifth
floor views of the city and stylish design. The modern urban
eatery offers its best deals at lunch, where 50zł gets you
multiple courses of their creative cuisine - trust us, its a deal.
If the weather allows then there’s no place better than the
terrace, even if its just for a cocktail. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(45-100zł). PTA6UXSW
Restauracja Kultura B-2, ul. Krakowskie
Przedmieście 21/23, tel. (+48) 784 04 40 51, www.
restauracjakultura.pl. On the ground floor of the Kino
Kultura, and therefore commanding one of the greatest
locations on all Krakowskie, the Kultura makes good use
of the space by serving food that lives up to its surroundings.
Smart waitresses wearing freshly starched aprons
will bring a hot bowl of żurek soup to your table before
presenting you with a bill that should, given quality, be far
higher. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (32-59zł).
PTAEGSW
Restauracja Wilanów ul. S. K. Potockiego 27
(Wilanów), tel. (+48) 22 842 18 52, www.restauracjawilanow.com.
An extraordinary excursion back to the days
of a planned Polish economy, this much talked about classy
restaurant serves a range of international and Polish food in
a blast to the past atmosphere. Despite what they say about
the place there’s no ignoring the service. Breathtakingly
snobby, expect to be treated like something the cat dragged
in if you’re not dressed for the opera. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00.
(32-58zł). PTAGS
Restaurant @Ferdy’s A-3, ul. Grzybowska 24 (Radisson
Blu Centrum Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 321 88 22, www.
ferdys.pl. A class act found on the ground floor of the Radisson.
Veneered woods, potted plants and huge shutters lend
an atmosphere not dissimilar to the first class deck of a cross
Atlantic liner, while the steaks are reputed to be some of the
best in the city. Not a cheap indulgence, but a worthwhile
one. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (36-164zł). PTAUGS
Restro A-4, ul. Pańska 57, tel. (+48) 22 620 22 66,
www.restro.pl. As you may have noticed some central
Warsaw streets have a habit of ending abruptly before reappearing
again sometimes hundreds of metres away on
the other side of a busy road. Bear this in mind when you
hunt down Restro, a cafe restaurant that is a favoured lunch
spot of ours, which can be found to the south-east of the UN
roundabout (Rondo ONZ). The changing menu features offers
a choice of excellently priced set menus and dishes with a
distinct Mediterranean feel. The tagliatelle with scampi and
coriander is a steal at around 6 euros although we often have
a dilemma between that and one of the salads, the beef and
spinach being another winner. Recommended but mind the
opening hours. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00,
Sun 13:00 - 18:00. (19-39zł). PTAUVGS
SAM Restaurant & Bakery C-2, ul. Lipowa 7a,
tel. (+48) 600 80 60 84, www.sam.info.pl. Fresh
baked bread, plentiful salads, a shop with organic herbs
and superfoods like acai...it’s safe to say that SAM has
arrived in Warsaw with some strong credentials, and
after our visit we can declare it the Charlotte of the student
set. You’ll find the same lackadaisical service and
hipster clientele as the popular Pl. Zbawiciela hotspot,
and if you can overlook these flaws you’ll be delighted
with healthy dishes that ensure you’ll forever be able to
squeeze into those skinny jeans. QOpen 08:30 - 22:30,
Tue 10:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 22:30. (15-40zł).
TA6UGSW
Skwer - filia Centrum Artystycznego Fabryka
Trzciny B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 60a,
tel. (+48) 508 36 58 49, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl.
If location is everything then Skwer is the place to be.
Commanding a prime spot on Krakowskie Przedmieście
a stone’s throw from the presidential place it looks like an
architect’s show-home yet manages to create a decent
atmosphere thanks to the students who flock here for
coffee after lectures. By night the crowd gets trendier as
local arty-types turn up to be seen eating the well-priced
food through the glass walls. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (18-
45zł). PTAUEGSW
Socjal C-3, ul. Foksal 18, tel. (+48) 601 31 89 66.
Socjal comes with excellent pedigree - it’s the creation
of the folks behind 12 Stolikow, which was named one
of the top 5 restaurants in the city last year. Socjal is
another win for this crew, boasting a rotating menu of
Italian entrees and salads (prosciutto and melon for the
win) that diners order via the restaurant’s chalkboard.
The communal tables force diners to be “socjal” with
their neighbours, an asset when you see a delicious plate
and want to casually ask, “What’s that?” QOpen 10:00
- 24:00, Wed, Thu 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00.
(18-65zł). PAGBSW
Solec 44 ul. Solec 44, tel. (+48) 798 36 39 96,
www.solec.waw.pl. Solec 44 marries two of the best
things around at one location: delicious food and the joy of
beating the crap out of your friends at board games. Come
for the grub - which is a delectable menu of fresh, local
and seasonal options plus hearty sandwiches - but stay
for the chance to crack into Settlers of Catan or Scrabble
with a beer in hand. The space itself (which can be tough
to find and is tucked behind a kebab shop) is sprawling
and ideal for long evenings of dice rolling, especially when
the sun cruelly sets at 16:00. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Mon
16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (26-79zł).
PTA6XSW
NEW
Sowa i Przyjaciele G-5, ul. Gagarina 2 (entrance from
ul. Czerniakowska), tel. (+48) 22 840 70 71, www.
sowaiprzyjaciele.pl. The pet project of well-known Polish
master chef Robert Sowa, this outstanding restaurant raises
the bar not only with its extensive range of tantalising dishes
that sound so good you’ll want to eat the menu, but also with
the level of hospitality. The ostensibly casual, modern interior is
elevated to elite by elegant table settings and excellent service,
and includes not one, but two VIP rooms, plus a plush cigar room
that’s also stocked with Scottish single-malt whiskies. To give
you a sense of the calibre of the cuisine here, our “Guinea hen
with caramelised carrot and lavender puree, served with glazed
vegetables and vanilla sauce” was not only worthy of an award,
it was also the cheapest entree on the menu (a ridiculously
reasonable 48zł). So delicious it’s almost embarrassing to eat
in public, we worry what might happen when we try the venison.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (45-75zł). PTAUGSW
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
December 2012 - January 2013

46 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 47
Milk bars
Bar Mleczny Familijny C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 39,
tel. (+48) 22 826 45 79. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 17:00. (3-13zł). PUGS
Leniwa Gospodyni F-4, ul. Nowowiejska 12/18,
tel. (+48) 22 825 44 23, www.leniwagospodyni.pl.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
(10-25zł). AGS
Mleczarnia Jerozolimska C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie
32, tel. (+48) 602 38 17 34. This new milk bar has
the décor to look modern, but all the classic staples of a
traditional milk bar - bitchy staff, a dead bug in our drink,
not enough tables - to feel like a Communist-era classic.
Mleczarnia Jerozolimska is consistently busy, something
we chalk up to location more than anything else. Our
pierogis never materialized (anything not on hand behind
the small counter is sent down via a food elevator) though
the borscht and giant salad were both serviceable. Also
at ul. Bagatela 15 (G-5). QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 19:00. (6-12zł). PUGS
Wiking C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 28, tel. (+48) 22 828
06 44, www.restauracjewiking.pl. A modern take on
the often-dumpy milk bar, Wiking offers a spread of Polish
staples in helpings bigger than your head. Simply point to
the pile of meat or bursting veggie pancake you desire and
the cheery maids will toss it in the oven for a warm-up before
slapping it on an awaiting tray. The Nowy Świat location
means Wiking does a brisk business even though the food
skews towards the bland. QOpen 07:30 - 21:30, Sat 09:00
- 21:30, Sun 10:00 - 20:30. (11-34zł). PTAGS
STO900 H-3, ul. Solec 18/20, tel. (+48) 787 69
62 41, www.1500m2.com. Any time a chef will hold
up what he’s making - in this case wiggling a kluski
kładzione, a type of doughy Polish dumpling without filling,
in the air - to explain what you’re ordering then you
can feel good about where you’re dining. STO900 has the
appearance of a student clubhouse with mismatched furniture,
a glass rack made of hangers and a bumping Bob
Marley soundtrack, but the menu is surprisingly grown
up. Options are limited to the few dishes the aforementioned
chef is making that day (our choice was ribs, the
dumplings or a carrot-lemon soup) but he clearly thrives
when not dividing his focus. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri
09:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.
(15-50zł). TA6GSW
NEW
Żurawina Rest & Wine B-4, ul. Żurawia 32, tel.
(+48) 22 521 06 66, www.zurawina.eu. Stylish and
spacious, this upscale resto wine bar looks like it should
be attached to a modern art museum and is about as
fashionable as they come, while still maintaining a level
of casual comfort that won’t put off those of us who don’t
spend half our paychecks on our hair. Post-modernist
paintings and slick plastic seating are off-set by elegant
place settings, fresh flowers and gorgeously presented
dishes. Choose from a large selection of bruschetta,
sexy drinks and desserts, or dive into to-die-for dishes
like ‘rib-eye steak with apple pastry, roasted potatoes
and truffle butter’ (56zł). The place of choice for well-bred
Varsovians on rich dates, business meetings and mixers,
in the evening it’s a great cocktail and wine bar. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (30-50zł). PTA6GSW
Italian
NEW
Aioli Cantine B-3, ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. (+48)
22 290 10 20, www.aioli-cantine.com. Turning communist-era
commercial space into an appealing dining
destination is no easy illusion, but Aioli’s urban canteen
aesthetic turns the trick with aplomb. Dominated by two
large circular bars - one around the kitchen hung with
colanders and racks of prosciutto, the other an actual
drink bar ringed with wine glasses - wooden furnishings
dressed with fresh herbs do much to dispel the brick
and concrete, while excellent service further elevates
the atmosphere. The short menu of salads, sandwiches
(mango turkey burger, perhaps?), pasta and pizza, plus
some great breakfasts, makes the most of each option
by including tantalising ingredients (many of which
you can take home with you in jars) and the prices are
very reasonable. High quality all around, and therefore
high marks from us. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. (20-40zł).
PTAGSW
Festa Italiana Ristorante B-4, ul. Hoża 27a,
tel. (+48) 516 61 61 06, www.festaitaliana.eu.
We know we shouldn’t fall for it, but Festa Italiana had
us at “waitress wearing an Italian flag skirt.” Throw in
a glossy menu that features three languages (Polish,
English and Italian) and there’s no excuse for not having
a large dollop of marinara somewhere on your clothes
before the night is through. The pizzas taste wood-fired
(though there’s no such oven in sight) and have a crisp
Roman-style crust that makes it easy to eat an entire pie
yourself. The creamy carbonara, highly recommended by
our flag-draped waitress, proved to be just as worthy as
the pizza. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
(22-60zł). PAGS
Nu Jazz Zone C-4, ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22 621
89 89, www.jazzone.pl. Slick, modern interiors with soaring
pillars and cavernous ceilings lend this place fantastic acoustics,
something you’ll notice the moment a live act appears.
Long established on what could be considered Warsaw’s
media street, the menu has been given a completely new
look with Italian replacing the international mix of old. And
once again the food hits the mark with our Gnocchi with pork
both tasty and a good value. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 23:00. (40-65zł). PTAEGSW
Roma G-5, ul. Belwederska 17 / ul. Grottgera 2, tel. (+48)
22 841 01 33, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Attention to detail is
apparent at Roma, and every aspect of this secretive restaurant
hints at the neighbourhood locales you’d find in the side alleys of
Italy. The interior is intimate, with silverware resting on cinnamon
sticks and piles of crispy breadsticks on every table. The menu
itself is encyclopaedic - - we’re talking three pages of pastas - -
enabling Roma to build a loyal fan base across the years. We’re
fans of the Neapolitan soup, especially on rainy days, and if you
like strings of mozzarella dangling from your lips we’re fairly certain
you will too. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun
14:00 - 21:00. (25-63zł). PTAUGBSW
Roma Bukieteria C-4, ul. Mokotowska 49a, tel. (+48)
22 621 03 11, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Pasta might be
the kind of thing you’re used to gorging on, but not here. Roma
Bukieteria is all romantic atmosphere - - think candles, terracotta
and heavy wood tables - - so bring your best manners
and your latest date. The only place with a larger selection of
pasta has to be Rome itself, so take your time when sorting
through the massive menu. It may look like a small trattoria,
but the wine list suggests seasoned pros who will ensure a
charming date. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00,
Sun 14:00 - 21:00. (25-63zł). PTAGSW
Trattoria Rucola B-2, ul. Miodowa 1, tel. (+48) 888
57 54 57, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Trattoria Rucola has
taught us a simple truth: we’d surely eat more salads if
they all came with smoky bacon. The smell of garlic wafting
onto Krakowskie Przedmieście will undoubtedly lure you in,
the strange leafy décor will encourage you to grab a table
and the hefty menu of Italian staples will mean a certain
belt-loosening. Thirty pizzas dominate the menu, but we
were intrigued by the rare sighting of doughy calzones. The
aforementioned salads are soaked in a lush balsamic dressing
that no one should be ashamed to lick from their fingers
(we did). Also at H-3, ul. Francuska 6 and C-4, ul. Krucza 6/14.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (20-55zł). PTAVGSW
Japanese
We could quite easily have a guide with only sushi restaurants
such has been the explosion of them in recent years. This
is a selection of the places we feel you ought to know about
but you are likely to find somewhere serving sushi in every
major mall these days.
77 Sushi A-4, ul. Sienna 83, tel. (+48) 22 890 18 11,
www.sushi77.com. The number 77 might well refer to the
number of sushi stops in town - in fact, it says a lot about
the city that it’s now easier to find sushi than it is a cabbage.
You’re guaranteed the real deal in Sushi 77, where imaginative
sets - try the California rolls, or even the hot sushi - come
chopped and sliced inside an attractive interior. Some
outlets offer local delivery. Also at (F-4), ul. Polna 48A, Open
12:00-22:30, Al. KEN 49 (Ursynów), Open 12:00-22:30 and
ul. Sławoja-Składkowskiego 4 (Ursus, CH Skorosze), Open
11:00-21:30, Sun 11:00-20:30. QOpen 11:00 - 22:30.
(29-49zł). PTAVGSW
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
December 2012 - January 2013

48 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 49
Festa Italiana
Ristorante
A place that
will stimulate
all the senses
ul. Hoża 27a, Warszawa
Tel/Fax. 516 616 106
festaitaliana@festaitaliana.eu
www.festaitaliana.eu
festaitalianaristorante
Besuto C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. (+48) 22 828 00 20,
www.besuto.pl. Besuto has moved from among the prefab
cabins and ramshackle pavilions inside Nowy Świat 22 to a
more visible location just down the street at 27. The good news
is the sushi, which has historically been very decent hot and
cold cuts prepared in front of your eyes, is still reliably delicious,
and the new storefront is significantly less likely to make your
date question your commitment - - the interior also gets marks
for being bright and modern. The bad news is that a better
location means higher prices than Besuto loyalists might be
used to, but it’s worth it to dig a little deeper. QOpen 12:00 -
23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (33-59zł). PTA6VGSW
Inaba B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. (+48) 22 622 59
55, www.inaba.pl. Here’s a restaurant that was around years
before sushi became a fashion statement. Japanese owned and
run everything about Inaba strives for authenticity, and this is one
of only three places in town that can claim a Japanese master
chef calling the shots in the kitchen. A pleasantly panelled interior
creates a great atmosphere and those who want more than just
raw fish should take a look at the grill dishes (be sure to try the
duck). QOpen 11:30 - 22:00. (25-58zł). PTAGSW
Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery B-2, ul. Senatorska
17/19, tel. (+48) 22 892 09 01, www.kiku.pl. Our advice
when coming to this typically Japan-in-a-packet decorated
place is simple: forget the sushi and just ask for the noodle
menu. Never before in this city have we eaten such fresh,
spicy and downright tasty noodles as we have at Kiku. At
around 25zł a bowl, a portion of noodles here - and the
seafood ones are best - represents terrific value. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (25-120zł). PTAUVGSW
Kintaro Sushi B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 38, tel. (+48) 22
881 78 51. This location on Nowogrodzka is like a black hole
for restaurants, with previous tenants including French and
Asian ventures. Now it has moved on to a Korean/sushi amalgamation
that leaves us less than optimistic that the space
won’t once again be changing hands. The Korean grill option,
while unique, requires an advanced order - so don’t roll up with
a craving - and the sushi is average even by Warsaw standards.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (22-50zł). PAUGSW
OTO!SUSHI F-3, ul. Nowy Świat 46, tel. (+48) 22 828
00 88, www.oto-sushi.pl. One of our favorite sushi spots in
Warsaw. Sure, the location helps - who can argue with sitting
outside on swanky Nowy Świat? - but the helpful staff, great
tea options and fair prices put it squarely on top. A vegetarian
sushi set for two with 22 pieces ranging from kappa maki to
inari was tops, and the tempura is crispy rather the soggy we
often encounter. Ducking in for a lunch special will get you
heaps of fresh sushi along with miso soup, a salad and green
tea for a reasonable price. The small storefront means you
may have to fight for a seat, though. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (20-60zł). PTAVGSW
Tomo Sushi C-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 22 434
23 44, www.tomo.pl. Many claim you won’t find better sushi
in Warsaw, and who are we to argue with the masses. Tomo’s
reputation is well earned, and as such don’t be surprised to
be knocking elbows with sushi snobs showing off deft chopstick
moves. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (45-95zł). PTA6UGSW
Kosher
Rambam Kosher Cafe & Restaurant A-3, ul. Grzybowska
4, tel. (+48) 22 243 26 93, www.rambamrestaurant.pl.
Make no mistake about it, Rambam is certified
kosher; in fact, they post their Glatt Kasher - Kasher Me-
hadrin min HaMehadrin certificate (courtesy of Rabbi Yossef
Karasik) right on the door. Inside you’ll find a menu that skews
Middle Eastern, with flavourful dishes like grilled eggplant and
tahini offered as a starter and mains like spicy beef tajjiin with
couscous. The only drawback to Rambam, which has some
of the most attentive waiters we’ve encountered, is that your
tasty plates can’t be accompanied by alcoholic beverages
as they have yet to land a liquor license. Note that Rambam
opens on Saturdays after sunset. QOpen 15:00 - 23:00.
Closed Fri, Sat. (39-79zł). PTAUGSW
Lebanese
Le Cedre 84 A-3, Al. Solidarności 84, tel. (+48) 22
618 89 99, www.lecedre.pl. This popular Middle Eastern
staple hops across the river to a more accessible location
at the intersection of Jana Pawła and al. Solidarności and
thankfully brings all their reliably exotic flavours along too.
The interior is a magenta masterpiece and sets the scene
for you and your Scheherazade to explore the hefty menu.
Our recommendation: though we’re fans of the entrees like
shawarma your best bet is to mix and match hot and cold
starters, of which there’s a dazzling array (stuffed grape
leaves and grilled halloumi top our list). QOpen 11:00 -
23:00. (32-59zł). PTAVGSW
Mediterranean
Olive Garden A-3, ul. Pereca 2, tel. (+48) 22 624 01 91,
www.restauracjaolivegarden.com. No need to squirm, this
isn’t the bland Olive Garden chain you’re familiar with. Rather,
this Olive Garden brings a decidedly exotic brand of dishes
to Warsaw in the form of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern
cuisine like homemade pita bread and sweet kunafeh. For 20zl
you can nab a lunch special of an appetiser (we suggest the
house-made hummus), entree and dessert, all delivered in
lightning speed to the hungry be-suited crowds. The available
summer garden and sheesha pipes means Olive Garden is
also a promising post-work spot to unwind. Q Open 10:00
- 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed December
24 - January 2. (20-50zł). PTAXSW
Paros B-3, ul. Jasna 14/16A, tel. (+48) 22 828 10 67,
www.paros-restauracja.pl. Paros is the first and last place in
Warsaw where a waiter pulled out our chair and helped us with
our coat - - colour us charmed by the gallantry. That attention
carried over to the meal, with Greek staples like hefty salads
and bite-sized spanakopitas as well as hybrid Greek burgers for
the carnivores, all imparting the taste of the Mediterranean. The
restaurant itself is so large it can be half filled with customers and
still seem spacious, even with a packed white wraparound bar in
the middle of the room. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (28-56zł). PTAUEGSW
Middle Eastern
NEW
Siriana ul. Smolna 14. Opening from December 5th -
within that short window between the time the guide goes to
the printing house and the time it gets into your hands - we
won’t have a chance to properly review this promising new
Middle-Eastern establishment until next issue, but we’ve
already heard plenty to recommend it. With a chef straight
from Damascus, Siriana promises authentic Arabic cuisine
prepared according to traditional techniques, and in lieu of
‘kebabs’ offers a wide selection of hummus, dry tartare, lamb
dishes and unique desserts. Before we give the final word, feel
free to let us (and thousands of others) know what you think
by leaving your own comments and reviews of Siriana on our
website. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (25-55zł). PTAGW
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December 2012 - January 2013

50 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 51
Mongolian
Cesarski Pałac (Tsinghis Chan) B-2, ul. Senatorska
27, tel. (+48) 22 827 97 07, www.cesarski-palac.com.
pl. A basement grill where diners line up at food stations, pile
ingredients into a bowl before handing it over for a Mongolian
chef to cook - either in a wok or on a Hibachi grill. There’s
plenty to choose from, and in the best traditions of East Asian
cooking the cuts of meat are lean, mean with not a slither of
fat to be seen. Perhaps that’s why it’s rare to spot a Polish
diner. Fifty five zloty gets you all you can eat, which sounds
a pretty fair deal to us. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:30 -
23:00, Sun 12:30 - 22:00. (55-65zł). PTAGBSW
Polish
There are basically three ways you can experience the Polish
dining experience. The cheapest is at one of the surprisingly
large number of surviving communist era Milk Bars, which
you can read about elsewhere. Then there are the chains of
‘country cottage’ style places which turn out Polish staples
of rye soup, stuffed dumplings and heaps of meat and veg
in gut-busting portions. The third form is still a relatively new
one and involves a growing number of young, world-class
chefs using their talents to bring Polish cuisine into the 21st
century. We can happily recommend all three forms depending
on the occasion. Take a look at the places listed here to
give you an idea of which is which.
99 Restaurant & Bar A-3, Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel.
(+48) 22 620 19 99, www.restaurant99.com. A fixture
on the Warsaw dining scene for over ten years and still going
strong in the local corporate lunch trade. An updated design
which is space age white and rather dashing compliments
a highly-recommended, global menu which includes what’s
possibly the best steak in Warsaw. Located within a stone’s
throw of some of the city’s finest hotels, this is one of the
most reliable places in town from breakfast through to supper
whether you’re socialising, doing business or a bit of both.
QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00,
Sun 15:00 - 22:00. (39-99zł). PTAUXSW
Atelier Amaro G-4, ul. Agrykola 1, tel. (+48) 22 628
57 47, www.atelieramaro.pl. It’s not hyperbole to call
Atelier Amaro one of Poland’s most modern restaurants,
with famed chef Wojciech Modest Amaro describing the
cuisine as “where nature meets science.” That ‘science’ is
molecular gastronomy, which means almost nothing is as it
seems: an amuse-bouche arrives on the table with a flourish
of dry ice fog, revealing caviar atop a surprisingly citrusy
foam. Meals can be 3, 5 or 8 “moments” (what us regular
folks call courses) and employ traditional Polish plants like
nettles and beetroot in unexpected, highly creative dishes -
like juniper ice cream hugging a miniature chocolate cake with
chestnuts (with dishes changing almost daily, your menu will
undoubtedly be different). Count us as impressed that Amaro
himself can be seen serving many of the dishes in this intimate
restaurant just inside Łazienki Park. An absolute must
for diehard foodies. Q Open 12:00 - 14:30, 18:00 - 22:30,
Sat 15:00 - 22:30, Mon 18:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. Closed
December 22 - January 3. (145-280zł). PTAUGW
Bistro Warszawa B-2, ul. Jezuicka 1/3, tel. (+48) 22
635 37 69, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Proof that not every
restaurant on the Old Town square has to be a kitschy Polish
throwback comes in the form of stylish Bistro Warszawa,
where soothing whites and greys - - and not a knick-knack
in site - - offer a modern oasis in the heart of the city. The
menu is similarly forward-thinking, with “pre-war Polish
cuisine” with marinated herring in truffle oil and a crisp pear
and walnut salad. And while the atmosphere (and the regular
jazz performances) suggest an upscale experience, don’t
be afraid to order the more pedestrian Bistro burger, which
comes complete with a paper cone of french fries. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (27-45zł). PTA6EGSW
Chłopskie Jadło F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 1 (entrance
from ul. Waryńskiego), tel. (+48) 22 339 17 17, www.
chlopskiejadlo.pl. If you’ve been dying to try Poland’s traditional
lard spread called smalec then this is your place. A
nationwide chain devoted to serving rustic Polish food from
the countryside, Chłopskie Jadło dishes up heaping portions
of meat and pierogis on wooden slabs, with a dish of smalec
and wedges of bread complimentary. The décor is country
farm kitsch, with strings of hams and ancient machinery
dangling from the walls. Slide onto a wooden bench (avoiding
the decorative rusty saw) and start with local soups served
inside a loaf of bread before loosening the belt and working
through homemade dumplings and shanks of meat served
by staff that appears as if they’ve just finished milking cows.
A winning intro to Polish food. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. (18-65zł). PTA6UGS
Delicja Polska F-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście
45, tel. (+48) 22 826 47 70, www.delicjapolska.pl.
One of the top eats around, set to a swish country manor
background of chintz, flowers and candles. Enjoy duck with
apple pancakes while aproned staff cater to your whim and
fancy in what is set to be one of the premier dining experiences
on the royal route. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (28-79zł).
PTAGSW
Dom Polski H-3, ul. Francuska 11, tel. (+48) 22 616
24 32, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Much ink has
been spilt over the virtues of Dom Polski, some of it in these
pages, but there is no getting away from the fact that this
is a good restaurant. Found in a discreet villa on Warsaw’s
millionaires’ row you can expect Rolls Royce service from
the minute you walk in. The food is equally good, chosen
from a menu which is mercifully short, with just a couple of
starters and several main courses to choose from; how it
should be, in other words. We went for the żurek followed by
the potato pancakes with smoked salmon and red caviar,
and couldn’t fault a thing. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-118zł).
PTAUGSW
Folk Gospoda E-2, ul. Waliców 13, tel. (+48) 22
890 16 05, www.folkgospoda.pl. Far from promising
on the outside, Folk Gospoda unravels on entry as a glorious
slice of traditional Poland. It’s inside a rugged interior
of stout furnishings and ceramic pots you’ll find boys and
girls in peasant attire rushing around carrying plates of
fortifying Polish food (think heaps of duck). Indeed, the
Polish highlands meet the city inside Gospoda, and that’s
never more so than when the band strikes up to hoot and
holler over the sound of busy diners. Be sure to check out
the wild Polish trout, an eco-friendly dish that will have your
shirt buttons pinging off in no time. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(22-66zł). PTAUIGSW
Halka restauracja po polsku E-3, ul. Pańska 85, tel.
(+48) 22 652 81 02, www.restauracjahalka.pl. Named
after one of Poland’s best loved operas Halka takes its name
seriously; interiors here have been painstakingly designed to
mimic a 19th century country manor, a clear nod to Stanisław
Moniuszko’s popular script. Dripping with elegance and lordly
touches this is upmarket Polish food at its best. And despite
what the well-done interior might suggest, they even have
a children’s corner. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 -
22:00. (21-59zł). PTA6EGSW
Tipping Tribulations
Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for
foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal
to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money,
you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the
word ‘dziękuje’ (thank you), or even ‘thank you’ in
English, is an indication that you won’t be wanting
any change back. This cultural slip-up can get very
embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress
then typically does their best to play the fool and make
you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or
conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your
change, no matter what the cost of the meal and size
of the note it was paid with. We suggest that you only
say ‘thank you’ if you are happy for the waitstaff to
keep all of the change. Otherwise we advise you to
only use the word ‘proszę’ when handing back the bill
and the payment.
Despite the fact that the average waitress in PL only
makes a paltry 10-15zł/hr, a customary tip is still
only around 10% of the meal’s total (though being
a foreigner may make staff expectant of a bit more
generosity). As such, we encourage you to reward
good service when you feel it’s deserved. Finally,
it is not common to add the tip to your credit card
payment because waitstaff are forced to then pay
tax on the gratuity; most likely you will not even be
able to leave a tip on your card. Have some change
handy so you can still leave a cash tip, or ask your
server for change.
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December 2012 - January 2013

52 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 53
Polish Food
Those wanting to take a quick foxtrot through the world
of the Polish kitchen should consider putting the following
to the test:
Smalec: Fried lard, often served complimentary before
a meal with hunks of homemade bread. It sounds evil,
but it works like a miracle any day, especially an arctic
one. Ideally partnered with a mug of local beer. Any Polish
restaurant worth its salt should give you lashings of this
prior to your meal. You only need ask.
Soup: Keep your eyes peeled for Poland’s two signature
soups; żurek (sour rye soup with sausages and potatoes
floating in it) and barszcz (beetroot, occasionally with dumplings
thrown in). Table manners go out of the window when
eating these two, so feel free to dunk bread rolls in them.
Bigos: You’ll either love it or vomit. Bigos, a.k.a hunters
stew, is made using meat, cabbage, onion and sauerkraut
before being left to simmer for a few days. If you have
second helpings then consider yourself a Pole by default.
Gołąbki: Boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion
and rice before being baked in a tomato sauce. Urban
myth claims Poland’s King Kazimierz fed his army gołąbki
before his victory outside Malbork in a battle against the
Teutonic Order. The unlikely victory was attributed to the
hearty meal his troops had enjoyed before hand.
Kiełbasa: Sausages, and in Poland you’ll find several varieties
made primarily with pork, but sometimes using turkey,
horse, lamb and even bison. Few varieties to watch for including
Krakowska, a Kraków specialty which uses pepper and
garlic, kabanosy which is a thin, dry sausage flavoured with
carraway seed and wiejska; a monster-looking u-shaped
sausage. Kiełbasa was also the nickname of one of Poland’s
most notorious gangland figures of the 90s.
Pierogi: Pockets of dough traditionally filled with meat,
cabbage or cheese, though you will also occasionally
find maverick fillings such as chocolate or strawberries.
Placki: Nothing more than potato pancakes, often paired
with lashings of sour cream. Again, all your traditional
folksy Polish restaurants will have these on the menu, if
not you have every right to raise a few questions in the
direction of the kitchen.
Zapiekanki: Also known as Polish pizza. Take a stale
baguette, pour melted cheese on it and then cover it
with mushrooms and ketchup from a squeezy bottle.
Best eaten when absolutely plastered. Where to buy it:
various fast food cabins dotted around the city centre.
Dessert: Few things in life get a Pole more animated than
a good dessert. Sernik (a kind of cheesecake) being a
must if you want to even attempt to convince a Pole you
have visited their country.
Kaszanka: This is the Polish variation of blood sausage,
in this case pig’s blood mixed with groats, and is generally
served fried with onions. Unlike in other countries it is not
served in the form of a sausage. A variation on the blood dish
is Czernina, a soup made of duck’s blood mixed with poultry
broth. An interesting tale is attached to this dish as it was the
dish served by the parents of young women to her suitors
as a sign that their proposal of marriage was not accepted.
Literatka B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 87/89
(second entrance - ul. Senatorska 3), tel. (+48) 22 827
30 54, www.literatka.com.pl. Located in the shadow of
Zygmunt’s column on the Warsaw’s poshest street, Literatka
is a traditional Polish restaurant with a cosy feel and an
impressive range of Polski and international dishes. Pierogi,
pork and duck all make an appearance as well as a more
than acceptable sirloin steak before finishing with what the
menu describes as apples in a bathrobe with strawberry
mousse. It’s not bad at all and a suitable way to finish a day
ploughing the tourist trail in the adjacent old town. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00. (30-70zł). PTA6IXSW
Masz Gulasz F-4, ul. Piękna 15, tel. (+48) 22 370 25
50. We thought it was a risk of celebrity chef Magda Gessler
to open a new restaurant so close to her most recent venture,
the wonderful and innovative Słony. And while diners have
yet to embrace this homey spot specialising in piping hot
goulashes like they have Słony, Gessler doesn’t disappoint
with her take on this popular Polish specialty. Traditional
options like pork and sauerkraut pack a filling punch, while
the chicken, dried tomato and spinach version actually
makes the dish feel surprisingly light - - not something you’d
normally say about a stew. Though the interior feels a little
trite (jars of grains and pickled sundries as decor has been
done to death) it thankfully doesn’t impede ingestion. Here’s
hoping some of Słony’s luck rubs off on Masz Gulasz. QOpen
11:00 - 22:00. (10-42zł). PTAUGSW
Oberża Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem (Under the Red
Hog) E-2, ul. Żelazna 68, tel. (+48) 22 850 31 44, www.
czerwonywieprz.pl. The story here’s a good ‘un. In 2006
workers uncovered a secret underground eatery frequented
by all the communist bad boys you’d ever think of; Mao, Lenin,
Castro and Brezhnev to name a few. Unearthed were a stack of
medals, manuscripts, menus and uniforms. This being capitalist
Poland a plan was hatched to make a mint from resurrecting
the restaurant and opening it to all. That’s the story anyhow. It’s
actually claptrap, designed to fool tourists and the occasional
half-witted magazine. Still, this place forms an intrinsic part of
any commie inspired tour you may be doing of Warsaw, and a
jolly good place to dine on Tito Boar, pig’s trotters in aspic and
Polish-style duck. In the background lots of sashes, portraits
and pretty young girls dressed for a May Day parade. Saturday
and Sunday find child minders available to entertain your tots.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (26-58zł). PTAUGSW
Pierrogeria B-1, ul. Krzywe Koło 30, tel. (+48) 604 17
90 02, www.pierrogeria.pl. If too many more top notch,
great value places like this open in Old Town, the area is in
serious danger of losing its tourist trap moniker. This divine
little pierogi stop keeps it simple, keeps it cheap and does
so in a gorgeous setting. The tables all get individual lamps,
and if you can bag one by the window at lunchtime then you
should settle in for a very long afternoon. Also at (F-4) Pl. Konstytucji
2. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (20-26zł). TAGSW
Polka, Magda Gessler po prostu B-2, ul. Świętojańska
2, tel. (+48) 22 635 35 35, www.restauracjapolka.pl. No
other restaurateur dominates the Warsaw scene like Magda
Gessler, and Polka is one of her Polish offerings to Warsaw’s
growing band of gastronauts. Like her other ventures Polka has
a fairytale design that makes use of floral prints and country
clutter, and the interiors here are a fancy muddle of frou frou
chambers. But it’s with good food that the name Gessler is
most commonly associated with, and here there’s plenty of
that to choose from. Find your usual assortment of Polish
delicacies, made using the finest locally sourced produce. In
added boon the prices are kind on the eye as well. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (24-68zł). PTAG
Radio Café B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. (+48) 22
625 27 84, www.radiocafe.pl. Penetrate the curtains
to enter a legend, a venue with shady connections to the
underground broadcasts of Radio Free Europe. Attesting
to this past are photos, cuttings and sketches, as well
as an ageing clientele all too familiar with the bad old
days. You wouldn’t define this venue as progressive, yet
it’s an immensely enjoyable way to glimpse pre-sushi
Warsaw and enjoy lively chat in an almost historic atmosphere.
The foods good as well, with central European
standards that do far more than just keep the cold at
bay. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.
(20-48zł). TAGS
Restauracja Różana G-5, ul. Chocimska 7, tel.
(+48) 22 848 12 25, www.restauracjarozana.
com.pl. A two floor pre-war villa full of chichi touches,
flowers and crockery. Very pretty, but you’ll soon learn
they attract return custom on account of the cooking,
not the interiors. The setting might look high end but
the prices are certainly not, and you’ll find Różana
recognized across the city as one of the best dinner
deals around. The veal liver with onions and cherry
sauce is divine. Plenty claim to open till the last customer
but only these guys are the real deal - if there’s
people dining then the kitchen will stay open, and that
doesn’t matter if it’s midnight or daybreak. Give a quick
call ahead to check. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (30-70zł).
PTAIEXSW
Słony G-4, ul. Piękna 11 (entrance from ul. Krucza),
tel. (+48) 22 629 03 64, www.slony.pl. Magda Gessler
strikes again, but not with the usual overdecorated sitdown
restaurant we’ve come to expect; this time the
celebrity restaurateur has created a grown-up snack bar
that’s a complete knockout. A glass case in the middle
of the restaurant houses a variety of canapés to choose
from - wouldn’t the French die to see smalec and pickles
on a canapé? - and the menu is populated with small
meaty dishes primarily in the 4-12zł range (can we call
it Polish tapas?). The simple homemade white sausage
with onion jam is on our city-wide best-of list, and with
one entire wall utilised for wine storage you can sip and
snack your way to pure bliss. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri
09:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.
(12-39zł). PA6GSW
Strauss Restaurant B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 45
(Polonia Palace Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 318 28 34,
www.strauss.pl. A classy restaurant serving Polish/
International cuisine inside the elegant confines of the
Polonia Palace. Check their Friday night deal where
105zł buys a Polish buffet accompanied by live music.
Q Open 06:30 - 10:00, 11:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30,
Sat, Sun 06:30 - 10:30, 18:00 - 22:30. (36-120zł).
PTAUGW
U Barssa B-1, Rynek Starego Miasta 14, tel. (+48)
22 635 24 76, www.ubarssa.pl. Old Town is packed
with standard places to eat, but has traditionally been
something of a desert when it comes to great places to eat.
Times are a-changing. As you walk into the elegant dining
room you will discover a world of luxury, craft and privilege
(oh yes, best save up before coming). Veal escalopes with
dill sauce and the signature duck a la Barssa (baked with
apples and served with cranberries and plum sauce and
accompanied by baked potatoes and beet konfiture) are
just a few of the treats you can expect, and we have yet
to mention the wine list. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (25-90zł).
TAEGSW
Restaurant Literatka
is pleased to invite you for delicious
dishes of traditional Polish and
international cuisine.
ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 87/89, Warsaw
Tel. +48 22 497 57 72
Tel./fax. +48 22 827 30 54
e-mail: biuro@literatka.com.pl
www.literatka.com.pl
Smoking
After holding out to be one of the few remaining EU countries
with no prohibitions on smoking, a new law put into
effect on November 15th, 2010 finally limited smoking
in public places. Smoking is now completely banned in
Poland on public transport, transport stops and stations,
schools and universities, workplaces, sports arenas and
other places where the public gather. Owners are obliged
to place a clear and visible ‘No Smoking’ sign and anyone
caught smoking by either the police or local city guards
(Straż Miejska) is supposedly subject to a 500zł fine.
However, in the case of bars, clubs, restaurants and
other public places, the law states that there can be
a separate room for smokers as long as it is properly
ventilated and closed off from the other public areas. In
response to the controversial legislation, many owners
have exercised their right to create a small smoking
room, however others have made the majority of their
establishment smoker-friendly with only a small area set
aside for non-smokers. Due to a lack of enforcement,
some establishments openly flout the law by allowing
smoking wherever they want. As such, while smoking
in public places in Poland has been greatly reduced, it
still continues in many places. To help you find or avoid
places which continue to allow smoking on the premises
we have used the following symbols throughout the guide:
G This place has a complete smoking ban on the
premises
X This place has a smoking section on the premises
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December 2012 - January 2013

54 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 55
A new kind of loo
Plenty of upgrades and
new additions have come
to Warsaw in courtesy
of the recent Euro 2012
tournament – check out
that shiny new stadium
across the river – but one
of the most interesting
improvements can be
found at Warsaw Central
Station. The station’s
reliably skuzzy communistera
bathrooms have been
stunningly replaced with
modern toilets and urinals that inexplicably offer walls
with images like wrinkly puppies or the White House for
the men, and shelves of books or sun-soaked terraces
for women. There is also an in-bathroom shop filled with
drinks and snacks in case you’ve worked up an appetite
in the stall. Dutch company 2theloo created the new
restrooms as part of the 48 million zloty overhaul the
station is currently undergoing, but fortunately it will
only cost you 2zł for the pleasure to use them. There are
large “2theloo” signs directing you to the three locations,
or you can head to Pasaz Polnocny on level -1, with the
entrance from Złote Tarasy for the 24 hour location.
Another location, which is open from 06:00-22:00, is on
level 0 with the entrance on the side the Marriott Hotel is
located (access from outside the station). The last option
is in the hallway in the lower level of the station that leads
to the northern end of the tram tracks.
The Incomes House
If ever there was a sign of how far Poland has come then
Plac Trzech Krzyży is it - lined up like diamond ducks are
top bracket boutiques, a five star hotel, and a phalanx
of Jeeps parked outside designer bars. This corner of
Warsaw has it all, and standing at the top of it is Dom
Dochodowy (the Incomes House), a glittering example
of when old meets new. Essentially a triangular faced
townhouse, the original Dom Dochodowy is thought to
have been constructed back in the 18th century, before
being improved on by Antoni Luciński - the supervisor of
King Poniatowski’s private cellar. Essentially comprised
of three separate houses (one facing Ujazdowskie,
another Mokotowska, and the final one staring down
Trzech Krzyży), the properties served countless uses
over the years, including that of distillery, playing card
factory and private laboratory for one budding Harry
Potter. The building survived the Warsaw Uprising, but
not in particularly good shape, and for the following
decades was allowed to rot slowly away. Finally, at
the start of this century, work was undertaken by the
Platan Group to restore the structure. The results are
fantastic - decorative plaster mouldings, polychromes
and historic decorations all saw the master touch, while
other details to look for include a floor mosaic making
use of four types of wood, iron balustrades and periodstyle
lampposts. Check the finer details for yourself by
spending in the Zegna and Burberry boutique inside,
the Ale Gloria restaurant in the cellar, or the stretch of
cafes/bars/restaurants to the side. Look for it on pl.
Trzech Krzyży 3.
U Fukiera B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, tel. (+48) 22
831 10 13, www.ufukiera.pl. The most famous restaurant
in town with a guestbook that speaks for itself; Naomi
Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Ferguson are a few of
the names who’ve taken a seat here. The interior is a work
of art, crowded with paintings and antiques, it’s hard not to
feel a part of history when dining here. The food is the perfect
indulgence with perfectly presented game dishes. Your bill is
a different matter, and may present a double Dutch situation.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (41-105zł). PTJAGSW
U Kucharzy B-2, ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. (+48) 22 826
79 36, www.gessler.pl. Cooking becomes theatre inside U
Kucharzy, a restaurant where chefs toil next to diners inside
what once served as the kitchen of the Europejski Hotel.
Black and white tiles, hams hanging from ceilings and floridfaced
chefs cursing over the din; eating here is like being
on the set of Ramsey’s Kitchen Nightmares. The food is no
nightmare, however, rather a collection of top priced game
dishes and other posh alternatives. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(39-79zł). TAEGS
Zapiecek C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. (+48) 22 826 74
84, www.zapiecek.eu. Packed through all hours this pierogi
kitchen assumes the ‘Grandmother’s country cottage’ look,
with pots and pans hanging from every shelf, and lots of hard
timber touches. Much talked about, their deliciously light dough
pockets come with all the fillings you can imagine. If you don’t
fancy a sit down then check their street-level take away window
for lunch-on-the-run. Also at Al. Jerozolimskie 28 (C-4). QOpen
11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (19-36zł). PTAGS
Russian
Babooshka C-3, ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 102, tel. (+48) 22
406 33 66, www.babooshka.pl. A smart little place, if
you’re a peasant, otherwise be prepared for benches, beer
and borscht. Russian cuisine isn’t for the faint hearted, and
the Babooshka chain excels at serving large portions of vein
clotting meats and veg to the masses. Also at ul. Krucza
41/43 (C-4) and ul. Grójecka 18/20 (E-4). QOpen 10:00 -
21:30. (30-40zł). PTYAUGSW
Seafood
Osteria F-3, ul. Koszykowa 54 (entrance from ul.
Poznańska), tel. (+48) 22 621 16 46, www.osteria.pl.
Some of the best seafood in Warsaw, with a menu featuring
fresh oysters, langoustines, parrotfish (yes, really) and
some very good octopus. The modern interior includes
hardwood and porthole finishes, as well as aquariums from
which African fish look on in alarm as their colleagues meet
a sticky end in the open kitchen. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
14:00 - 22:00. (56-122zł). PTAGSW
Spanish
Casa Pablo A-3, ul. Grzybowska 5a, tel. (+48) 22 324
57 81, www.casapablo.pl. Spanish restaurants are few
and far between in Warsaw, so it’s not hard to stand out if
that’s the menu you’re slinging. Yet Casa Pablo doesn’t rest
on those laurels and ups the ante with creative Spanishinfluenced
cuisine that meant we’d heard about their duck
breast burger and creamy cauliflower soup before crossing
their threshold (another notable entree that seafood lovers
will appreciate is the scallops). That doesn’t even touch on
the desserts, or the specials we’ve seen...not that you’ll
need any extra enticements once you’ve explored this unique
menu. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 18:00. (50-85zł). PTAUBXW
Ole Tapas Steak Restaurant C-4, ul. Bracka
2, tel. (+48) 519 87 57 67, www.ole-restaurant.
pl. The steak trend in Warsaw shows no sign of losing
steam as Ole adds to the stiff competition amongst
flesh slingers, but with a Spanish twist. That theme
is clear as soon as you step inside the small, modern
restaurant which uses images of Flamenco dancers to
line the mezzanine staircase. We’ve seen diners swoon
while consuming the fresh tuna, and the Spanish tortilla
packed with zucchini makes an ideal light lunch when
you don’t want a slab of beef weighing you down. Oh, but
when you do, Ole spoils diners for choice with Basque,
Kobe, Galician and even Sirloin with foie gras. Ask your
server what he recommends, as ours was liberal with
solid recommendations. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-
80zł). PTAGSW
Sol y Sombra A-3, ul. Grzybowska 2 lok.16, tel. (+48)
22 404 70 11, www.solysombra.pl. Formerly Cuatro
Caminos Tapas Bar, Sol y Sambra seems to have kept the
former’s kitschy décor as well as their consistently delicious
cuisine (new owner, new chef), which is authentically
Spanish to the core. The lunch special lands you soup and
a main, and we can’t say enough for the gazpacho when
it’s in season. The paella requires a bit of a wait, so get
yourself some grilled asparagus with Serrano ham to make
the time pass more enjoyably. As the third tapas bar to
call this address home we’re thinking this one is a keeper.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (29-49zł).
PA6UGSW
Steak
The steakhouse has enjoyed prime (get it?) placement on
Warsaw’s dining scene of late, and talk of the best cuts,
grass-fed beef and who has the juiciest New York strip can be
hashed out at this list of Warsaw’s steak-centric restaurants.
Butchery & Wine B-4, ul. Żurawia 22, tel. (+48) 22
502 31 18, www.butcheryandwine.pl. A wonderful addition
to the Warsaw dining scene winning points for originality
and simplicity. Try to put the image of mass slaughter over
a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon out of your mind and instead
visit to be met by a polite and well-drilled staff in pin-striped
butchers’ aprons inside a bright, modern, relaxed venue
with an open kitchen and enough wine on display to float a
battleship. The menu features a range of real steaks prepared
exactly to order and served on wooden boards with
additional sauce and side options. While it doesn’t have to
be steak (the rest of menu looked mouth-watering) we can’t
imagine ever daring to order anything but such was the enjoyment
we took from eating one. Recommended. Q Open
12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Closed December 23 - January
2. (29-220zł). PTAGSW
Downtown Restaurant & Steakhouse A-4, ul.
Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel), tel. (+48)
22 328 87 45, www.downtown.com.pl. Considering
these are the same folks who bust out one of Warsaw’s
most lavish Sunday buffet each week, it’s no surprise that
the Intercontinental’s Downtown restaurant holds nothing
back on their extravagant steak menu. The meaty choices
are global, with selections ranging from a cut of U.S. Longhorn
from Iowa to a tender hunk of Charolais beef from
France’s Burgundy region. Steaks can be paired with one
of five sauces and seven sides, and all you need to provide
is the post-meal belt-loosening. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30,
12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00
- 16:00, Sun 06:30 - 10:30, 12:30 - 16:00. (39-185zł).
PTAUEGW
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warsaw.inyourpocket.com
December 2012 - January 2013

56 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 57
Tex-Mex
Frida C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 34, tel. (+48) 22 826 42
18, www.restauracjafrida.pl. Mexican ballads, sombrero
shaped ashtrays and splashy pictures of Frida Kahlo; this
place has the lot. Service is great, flirty even, while the menu
gets gongs for featuring all the right Mexican suspects.
There’s a distinct lack of dynamite to the salsa, but all in all
this is a decent addition to Warsaw’s Mex offerings, and a
definite alternative to your more tried Nowy Świat venues.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (22-89zł).
PA6UEGS
The Mexican B-3/4, ul. Zgoda 6, tel. (+48) 22 826
00 09, www.mexican.pl. Unclog your system and get
your guts gargling by attending The Mexican, a venue with
shocking burritos that come served under a slurry of cabbage
and florid sauce. A lot of effort has been put into the
venue itself, and many a passerby will be wooed by the
scantily clad flamenco-inspired attire of the waitresses;
If only they focused half as much attention on the food.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 -
24:00. (30-40zł). TAGSW
Warsaw Tortilla Factory F-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel.
(+48) 22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.
pl. In a country that considers ketchup spicy we’re always
trepidacious when restaurants boast of any sort
of heat factor. Fortunately, the Warsaw Tortilla Factory
isn’t kidding when they call their habanero mango salsa
“explosive.” The rest of the Tex-Mex menu also lives up
to expectations, with outsized burritos few adults can
finish and a cheesy Philly taco that’s so wrong it’s right.
And don’t forget chicken wings for 1zł on Tuesdays. Heck
we’d probably lick the guacamole off the floor and wash it
The best steaks in town
down with a Corona. We doubt anyone at the WTF would
blink if we did since the mixed crowd of locals and expats
is equally as focused on their salsa-laden plates.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (18-60zł).
PTA6EXSW
Thai
Little Thai Gallery B-3, Pl. Dąbrowskiego 2/4, tel.
(+48) 22 827 44 10, www.littlethaigallery.pl. Often having
a good Thai meal in Warsaw means trading atmosphere
for authenticity. Thankfully you’ll have to make no such
compromises at Little Thai Gallery, where the food is every
bit as good as the lush surroundings. The 24zl lunch special
is a steal, with soup (we liked the soy noodle with pork) tea
and an entree like fresh veggie spring rolls leaving you happily
stuffed. Practically any dish has the option of being ramped
up to spicy hot, and the interiors will leave you as breathless
as the peppers; the giant painting of a praying monk that
dominates the south wall is almost as big as the restaurant
itself. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00
- 21:00. (25-69zł). PTA6UVGS
Natara A-2, Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. (+48) 666
10 15 00, www.natara.pl. Natara has one of the strangest
dining spaces we’ve encountered: five tables are squeezed
into a cramped, low-ceilinged second floor that’s so stuffy
we saw a diner apply deodorant mid-meal. But you know
what you’re going to do? Put up with it, because the food is
excellent. The pad Thai is the best we’ve had in Poland, and
the stir-fried rice with cocktail shrimps, pork and pineapple
is a steaming pile of excellence. The menu comes in two
giant tomes and has plenty of curries, vegetarian dishes
and noodles to hold you over until your next trip to Thailand.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (20-48zł). PAGS
Papaya C-3, ul. Foksal 16, tel. (+48) 22 826 11 99,
www.papaya.waw.pl. We’ll never tire of recommending
Papaya, an ice white venue rated as one of the best restaurants
in the city. Oysters come plucked from the aquarium,
while an open kitchen allows the pleasure of watching the
chefs at work; these guys don’t miss a beat, and show off
every trick in the book as they create standout dishes like
steamed bass in banana leaf and class pad Thai. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (32-265zł). PTAXSW
Ukrainian
Kamanda Lwowska C-3, ul. Foksal 10, tel. (+48) 22
828 10 31, www.kamandalwowska.pl. Here’s a restaurant
that gets back to basics, offering up a cavalcade of dishes
that have been otherwise deleted from modern Warsaw. The
emphasis is firmly on the good old days - before moustached
dictators started dictating Poland’s borders - and the design
is a pleasing jumble of craftwork and clutter. The menu, too,
has been painstakingly perfected, and includes such masterstrokes
as cheesecake cooked to a secret grandparent’s
recipe. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (37-49zł). PTAEGSW
Vegetarian
Biosfeera F-6, Al. Niepoległości 80, tel. (+48) 22 898
01 55, www.biosfeera.com. An ultra-funky interior full of
hanging canvas lamps, orange dashes and shining wood finishes
generates the hip atmosphere normally lacking in Polish
vegetarian haunts. The Koza Italiana is a fantastic way to prime
yourself for the meatless main courses that come with names
like Szpinakolada and Tortilla Kama Sutra. Freshly squeezed
juices and fruit cocktails come as refreshment, and expect
the thousand-yard stare if you ask for a beer and an ashtray.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (29-39zł). TA6UGSW
Green Bar B-3, ul. Szpitalna 6, tel. (+48) 22 625 00
55, www.greenbar.waw.pl. An oasis of veggie goodness
in the meaty heart of this carnivorous city, Green Bar keeps
it simple - soup, quiches, light meals and the like - but does
so very well indeed, and keeps prices low, ensuring it a
steady stream of customers - at lunchtime especially. Just
about your only veggie option this close to the city centre,
we say get here while you can. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 21:00. (12-15zł). PAUGS
smaczneGO! B-4, ul. Wspólna 54a, tel. (+48) 603
95 35 25. SmaczneGO is disarmingly simple: lots of food
for little money, all of it easily packed to go. Takeout orders
outnumber the sit-down diners and the employees earn their
wages hustling between the kitchen and the front counter
with containers of soup and piles of goulash. There’s more
vegetarian options than your average Warsaw restaurant,
though our veggie burrito stretched the boundaries of what
even the most liberal Mexican would consider legit (we’re
pretty sure the same tomato sauce used for the lasagne is
doused on top of the burrito). QOpen 09:30 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (9-16zł). PTA6GS
Vietnamese
Nam Sajgon C-4, ul. Bracka 18, tel. (+48) 880 63 39 85.
This Vietnamese gem has upgraded from its origins as a stall
in the National Stadium to a two-level spot on Bracka, but the
lines haven’t changed. That’s because you can’t beat the fresh
spring rolls or the large vermicelli salads, which will easily provide
tomorrow’s lunch too. The steaming bowls of Pho are one of the
most popular options thanks to the delicious meaty broth, and
the list of teas and Vietnamese coffee are equally impressive.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:30, Sun 10:00 - 20:30. (10-19zł). GS
Hot Beer
There’s a number of ways to survive winter in Poland,
and we’ve tried them all; from dressing up like Eskimos
to eating loads of fat and staying home. Of all the
methods none however rewards as much as heading
down the pub. It’s in these noble establishments you’ll
find the answer to the ice age, namely a pint of grzane
piwo – that’s hot beer to you and me. Now it might
sound rancid but give it a try. You’ll get a frothing beer
served piping hot with a choice of various flavourings
– cloves, cinnamon, honey, ginger and an array of fruit
juices. Grzane wino – mulled wine – is equally popular
at this time of year and is particularly decent when
using a dry red.
Couple of things a veteran will keep their eye out for;
firstly, the distant ping of a microwave is usually a giveaway
that they don’t know what they’re doing behind the
scenes. You most certainly don’t want your drink fried.
Secondly, ask for a mug, not a glass. Drinks lose their
temperature fast so it’s always best to have a mug,
preferably a sturdy clay chap. Thirdly, and a gentle prod
to any simpletons, remember your drink is going to be
scorching hot when it arrives. Gulping it down in one is
going to seriously hurt. And remember, if you’re trying
this at home, never let the drink hit boiling point. That’s
disaster. If you’re too scared to get creative yourself
then you’ll find ready-to-heat mulled wine on sale in off
licenses - look for Grzaniec Galicyjski. During the colder
months you will find most restaurants and bars offering
some form of hot alcohol and we can’t recommend
them enough.
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warsaw.inyourpocket.com
December 2012 - January 2013

58
CAFÉS CAFÉS
Blikle Café C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. (+48) 22 826
64 50, www.blikle.pl. A part of Warsaw folklore. This is
where Charles De Gaulle used to come for his donuts back in
his Warsaw days, and Blikle still sell a chocolate and marzipan
cake honouring their famous guest. A classy, august venue,
with a menu available until midnight that includes a range
of breakfasts, lunches, ice creams and a dessert selection
that will have you in heaven. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun
10:00 - 24:00. PTAGSW
Bubbleology B-3, ul. Chmielna 26, www.bubbleology.pl.
Few things have gotten us more excited than the
arrival (finally!) of bubble tea in Poland. Bubbleology is a
UK chain that offers milk and fruit teas that can be mixed
in any number of combinations - - just ask one of the lab
coat-wearing “bubbleologists” behind the counter for their
most creative recommendations; passionfruit and vanilla?
Taro and kumquat? It’s just tea and tables here, but that’s
all you need to enjoy this tall, cold refreshment. QOpen
11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 23:00, Sun 10:30 - 22:00.
PAGS
Cafe Baguette B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 69,
tel. (+48) 22 828 76 10. Confronted with Cafe Baguette’s
impressive wall of loaves and pastries it’s fair to question
whether you took a wrong turn on K-P and somehow ended
up in a cosy Parisian boulangerie. In a city where good bread
can be harder to find than happy stories Cafe Baguette is
a welcome (and already popular) addition. Salads, quiches
and thick sandwiches fill up their display case, while baskets
of croissants and desserty goodness surround the register.
The outdoor seats provide a great spot for people watching
while diving into sticky pastries. Q Open 06:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 06:00 - 01:00. TA6UGSW
Cafe Próżna B-3, ul. Próżna 12, tel. (+48) 22 620
32 57, www.cafeprozna.pl. Making a stir with Warsaw’s
intellectuals is Cafe Próżna, a cracking cafe set inside a
shattered building that looks ready to keel over. You’ll be
lucky to find a seat inside this narrow venue, even more so
if there’s a lecture or reading going on. Decorated with prewar
photographs, Próżna comes with a pile of well-thumbed
history books in the entrance, tiny tea candles and a basement
level to soak up any overflow of customers. The only
disappointment here are the smoothies; nowhere near as
good as the venue deserves. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Mon,
Sun 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. 6GSW
Café Vincent C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. (+48) 22
828 01 15. This place is a great French bakery and coffee
shop doing a huge range of authentic pastries and bread.
This is rather unfortunate as the large queue and tiny shop
space move quickly while you dither, and you also risk being
smacked by a baguette if you turn around too quickly, but
it’s worth it as a coffee and croissant will set you back less
than 20zl. Also at ul. Jana Pawła II 82 (D-1, Arkadia). QOpen
06:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 01:00. PAGSW
Chłodna 25 E-2, ul. Żelazna 75a (entrance from ul.
Chłodna), tel. (+48) 22 620 24 13, chlodna25.blog.pl.
The unofficial home of Warsaw counter-culture, and something
of a community centre for wacky art types; they’re all
here, from ex-pat hacks typing up tomorrow’s copy, to drama
queers committing theatre scripts to memory. Distracting
them from the duty at hand are jazzy tunes, poetry slams
and the occasional comedy show, plus plenty of wine and
beer. Chairs of varying style and condition, board games and
batty artwork all add to the atmosphere, making C25 every
bit as appealing as it is curious. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 23:00. P6GSW
Coffee Karma F-4, Pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. (+48) 22
875 87 09, www.coffeekarma.eu. Earnest looking intellectuals
read Hesse while taking languid sips of hand-roasted
coffee. Huge windows afford views of Pl. Zbawiciela, and the
staff are also adept at fixing exotic smoothies. Ten out of
ten. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 -
23:00. PTA6GSW
Costa by Coffee Heaven C-3, ul. Krakowskie
Przedmieście 8, tel. (+48) 22 828 28 58, www.
costacoffee.pl. Costa recently upgraded their digs from
a less-than-inspiring (and often faintly bathroom-spelling)
location on Nowy Świat to this new, airy and arty space on
Krakowskie Przedmieście. The transition hasn’t affected
the standard corporate menu of reliable coffees and premade
sandwiches, but the atmosphere is a major upgrade
and the clientele now skews decidedly younger thank to its
proximity to the University. One of the best renewals of a
tired brand that we’ve seen in a while. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00,
Fri 07:00 - 21:30, Sat 08:00 - 21:30, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.
PTAGSW
Green Caffe Nero G-5, ul. Tadeusza Boja-Żeleńskiego
2, tel. (+48) 22 118 25 20, www.greencaffenero.pl. It’s
the perfect caffeinated marriage: Poland’s popular Green
Coffee joins forces with the UK-based Caffe Nero to create
this first-of-its-kind joint venture. In this case everyone wins
- - Caffe Nero provides their Italian blends while Green Coffee
offers house-made sandwiches to the hungry PC-users that
swarm the fluffy couches and wood slab tables. The cafe
itself is on Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, one stop down on the tram from
the too-cool-for-school Pl. Zbawiciela, which means you won’t
be fighting underfed hipsters for a seat. There’s still some
growing pains to work out (the music’s too loud, the bathroom
has windows that allow you to wave at neighbours from the
seat) but overall it’s a match made in espresso heaven.
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PA6UGSW
Lody na Patyku C-2, ul. Lipowa 7a, tel. (+48) 602
13 46 34. Poles love their ice cream, and Lody na Patyku
(roughly “Ice Cream on a Stick”) takes that love affair to a
more sophisticated level with a large variety of ice cream
flavours and coatings that are slapped on sticks, reshaped
(hearts, giant paws) and sprinkled with toppings (coconut,
pistachios) that make deciding on the perfect stick a lengthy
process. The first floor offers seating and the option for
legitimate meals like soups and sandwiches, but embrace
your inner eight year old and go with an ice cream or two.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. TA6GSW
Loft B-3, ul. Złota 11, tel. (+48) 608 60 84 88, www.
cafeloft.pl. Mixed in amongst fast food choices like KFC
and Sphinx comes Loft, a welcome respite for those who
don’t necessarily want a meal in the city centre that requires
eating with your fingers. The space itself is fun, with bubbly
lights and bright furniture mixing with wacky S&M cartoonish
artwork and tableside aquariums. Lunch is your best bet, with
sandwiches flying out of the kitchen for just 15zł and large
salads setting you back 25zl. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. PTA6UEXSW
Ministerstwo Kawy F-4, ul. Marszałkowska 27/35,
tel. (+48) 503 08 09 06, www.ministerstwokawy.pl.
Another café at Plac Zbawiciela? Just when we thought it
had reached critical mass (Charlotte, Coffee Karma and
Kawiarnia Funky are all mere steps away) Ministerstwo
Kawy throws open its doors and proves that all you truly
need for a successful coffee shop is an espresso machine,
a few chairs and reliable Wi-Fi. Oh, and bathrooms. Students
have claimed this place as their own, and the tables are
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
consistently filled with backpacks and half-eaten bowls of
soup. Our favourite spot for pulling long laptop sessions
with no hassle or hipsters. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 22:00. PA6UGSW
Moments Tasty Life ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, www.
tastylife.pl. Yes, it sounds like a three-year-old named the
place. Overlook it. Moments occupies a prime spot at the
intersection of Nowy Świat and Jerozolimskie inside the
former stock exchange building, which means great people
watching while you nibble that carrot cake (or shovel it down
like us). There’s plenty of outdoor seating when the weather is
right, and inside it’s sparse, modern and populated by some
impressively well-made coffee drinks. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PTAUGSW
Petit Appetit C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. (+48) 22
826 44 61, www.petitappetit.pl. The sprawling street
of Nowy Świat/Krakowskie Przedmieście is now bookended
with boulangeries: on the northern end there’s Cafe Baguette,
and on the southern Petit Appetit. This French newcomer
already impresses by offering fantastic homemade crepes
and fluffy omelettes along with authentic crusty bread that
patrons can watch being baked via a large glass window on
the kitchen. The usual pain au chocolates and creme brulees
line the bakery case along with a mind-boggling array of
loaves that beg to be taken on the go (in your bicycle basket
no less). Our only complaint? The coffee cups lack useable
handles! Yet its a price we’re willing to pay for a little taste of
Paris. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. PA6UGSW
Piękna Bistro - Espresso F-4, ul. Piękna 20, tel.
(+48) 22 627 41 51, www.jazzzone.pl. Open early
and aimed at those who rush to work with computer bags
hoisted over their shoulders. Coffee on the run with in-house
baked croissants and baguettes inside the sleek interiors
one associates with what is now called the Jazz Zone chain.
Renovations were recently completed, so you can now experience
a refreshed Piekna Espresso. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
PTAUXSW
Słodki Słony G-4, ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. (+48) 22
622 49 34, www.slodkislony.pl. Exceedingly ornate
interiors announce the arrival of one more Magda Gessler
venture, this one with a heavy emphasis on cakes, pastries
and chocolate. There’s guilty pleasures aplenty in this place,
and all packaged inside a design that’s half Martha Stewart
and half English country house. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Mon
11:00 - 24:00. PA6GSW
Starbucks Coffee C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 62, tel. (+48)
713 86 19 53, www.starbucks.pl. Anti-globalists weep.
After years of threatening so the agents of Satan, Starbucks,
have opened shop in Warsaw, and in the most obvious location
of all - bang on Nowy Świat. And it’s everything you’d expect -
big, comfortable, popular, and with very good coffee combos
to keep the people coming over and over again. Also on (A-2)
Al. Solidarności 68a, (A-2), Al. Solidarności 82, (A-3) ul. Emilii
Plater 53 and (B-4) Al. Jerozolimskie 63. QOpen 07:30 - 21:30,
Fri, Sat 07:30 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:30. PAUGSW
To Lubię B-1, ul. Freta 10, tel. (+48) 22 635 90 23,
www.tolubie.pl. Divine. Coffee, cakes, pies, breakfast, coffee
and apple or plum crumble at 12zł a slice (not necessarily
in that order). Opposite the church on a street that is best
known as being tourist-trap central, this is the kind of place
you can get all twee and generally Krakow for a moment.
Old/New Town should be full of places like is. ‘I like this’ is
what the name means and we do. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00..
PTA6GS
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Chocolate Lounges
If there’s one universal truth about Poles it’s that
they love their dessert. What might be considered
a special treat or indulgence in your country is a
standard part of the meal, a staple not to be left out.
A lap past any ice cream parlour or bakery typically
reveals long lines and hefty purchases (yet still the
Poles stay impressively skinny. Unfair). Evidence of
this sugary fanaticism can be found in the long tradition
of ‘chocolate lounges,’ cafes that are devoted
to the cocoa-driven nectar in a way you thought only
Hansel and Gretel could imagine.
NEW
Karmello B-3, ul. Chmielna 11, www.karmello.
pl. Taking its time in coming to the capital, this general
newcomer to PL’s confectionery tradition has already
established itself as one of the country’s finest chocolatiers
with ten shops in seven other Polish cities.
Packed full of stunning display cases that practically
sparkle with over 50 varieties of exclusively-crafted
chocolates - plus truffles, chocolate bars, candied
chocolate-dipped fruit and other specialties - the
hot chocolate and coffee concoctions are perfect on
a cold day and there’s a lovely terrace in the warm
months. Ideal for picking up a nice gift in a pinch, or
plan ahead and get some sweets personalised in advance.
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PTA6UGSW
Pijalnie Czekolady Wedel B-3, ul. Szpitalna 8,
tel. (+48) 22 827 29 16, www.wedelpijalnie.pl.
The reason everyone at Czekolady Wedel looks like
they’re in a daze is because this is the mothership of
chocolate cafes, ground zero for all things dark, milk
and achingly sweet. Wedel is the country’s longest
established chocolate manufacturer and one of the
best known brands in Poland. This classy venue,
featuring comfortable seating in room after room of
tables, is located in what was once the factory and
cafe of the Wedel business. You’ll still be able to taste
the original chocolate creations of its founders which
were so popular that Karol Wedel had to introduce
a factory seal carrying his signature to combat the
number of forged ‘Wedel’ products that were filling
the market in the 1860s. The menu here is impressive
in both its size and scope, covering every variety of
chocolate drink, dessert, truffle and ice cream dish
imaginable. Chocolate comas are inevitable. QOpen
08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
PTAGSW
Wawel B-3, ul. Królewska 2, tel. (+48) 22 828
14 99, www.wawel.com.pl. Yes it sounds awfully
similar to Wedel, and their histories are equally alike.
Confectioner Adam Piasecki founded the company in
1898 in Krakow and, making it through World War II,
Wawel became a recognisable Polish brand for sweets.
Their Warsaw chocolate lounge is located on swank
Krakowskie Przedmieście, and though it is nowhere near
as vast as the Wedel lounge nor as daunting in menu
choices, chocoholics can still indulge in a ridiculous
array of truffles and treats. The hot chocolate’s impressively
diverse for the adventurous, with Cherry Crush
and Cinnamon Islands recommended for those who
like to compliment their chocolate with additional flavours.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 21:00.
PA6GSW
December 2012 - January 2013
59

60 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE
Night at a glance
A thriving capital city it might
be, but Warsaw still lags behind
other European hotspots
when it comes to hedonistic
capers. There is no area
truly set aside for nightlife,
and hailing taxis to get from
Bar A to Club B is a tediously
frequent occurrence. The area
around pl. Pilsudskiego and
pl. Teatralny has become a
firm favourite with a dressy crowd of new money Poles,
somewhat replacing the more established territories of
Nowy Swiat, pl. Trzech Krzyzy and ul. Sienkiewicza. If
dressing to the nines is firmly out of the question then
consider heading across the river to the artsy bars cropping
up in the Praga district. In a worrying development
many clubs have now assumed the thinking that the
clothes maketh the man, and you’ll find most places
now operating a velvet rope door policy to ensure only
those kitted in their Saturday finery make it as far as the
dance floor. Open hours listed should only be treated as
rough approximation; in practice many bars and clubs
will open way beyond the call of duty if the need arises,
but by the same benchmark will happily bolt the doors
if business is slow.
Here are a few recommendations depending on what
you are looking for.
Local
Bierhalle is a large microbrewery on Nowy Swiat that
churns out respectable vats of beer in a central location.
Newcomer Srodmiejska has live music, a legit food
menu and a relaxed Warsaw hipster vibe.
Cheap
It has to be The Secret Garden, a ramshackle collection
of dive bars in the courtyard behind Nowy Swiat that offers
Warsaw drinking in its rawest form. And if you don’t
mind herring and 5zl vodka shots explore the 24 hour
zakaskas bars like Warszawska and Pijalnia Wódki i
Piwa to drink like a local.
Lads
For Sky Sports and grub then take your pick from The
British Bulldog, Warsaw Tortilla Factory, Legends
and Someplace Else. If you’ve cleaned up and are ready
to impress hit up Foksal street for clubs like Sketch and
Foksal XVIII, which boast A-list clientele. But if your
requirements are a little more carnal read up on our
adult section and then proceed wisely.
Couples
If you like to swill custom cocktails try newcomer Pies
Czy Suka, but if you prefer your drinks in one of two
colours - white or red - then try Ż urawina Rest & Wine.
However if your true love is obscure beers then Konstytucja
Klubokawiarnia will melt your heart.
Splurge
Paparazzi’s cocktails are worth the dip into your wallet,
as are the drinks at the Marriott’s Panorama bar, which
offers views from the 40th floor that will cost you. If you’re
dressed to impress hit up Capitol for the chance to drink
like a champagne-loving oligarch.
Bars & Pubs
Warsaw has a thriving bar scene, and hitting up one of
the many venues listed here offers the chance to sample
Poland’s national beverage - vodka - long with plenty of
local beers. You’ll be offered beer either in 0.3 or 0.5
litre sizes, and prices depend greatly on how swank your
establishment; expect to pay 7-10zl for a large beer for
the most part.
Beirut Hummus & Music Bar B-4, ul. Poznańska
12. Our favorite new addition to Warsaw’s bar scene, Beirut
is pure atmosphere - the bar itself is made with sandbags,
after all - and offers traditional Lebanese snacks like olive
oil-soaked hummus and falafel to pair with your beer.
While the weather is nice the front is open to the street,
letting passersby marvel at the sound system and the
unique hairstyles of the hip staff. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00.
PAUGW
Bierhalle C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. (+48) 609 67
77 65, www.bierhalle.pl. Warsaw’s best beer served in
a bi-level space filled with chunky woods, bare bricks and
industrial flourishes. The menu, presented by girls dressed
in countryside apparel, features big photographs of what you
can expect, including life-size pics of the beer - order a big
one here and you’ll be left getting to grips with clunky two pint
steins that are ideal for showing off your bicep flexes. Also
at Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (D-1, Arkadia). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PAGW
British Bulldog Pub C-4, ul. Krucza 51, tel. (+48)
22 827 00 20, www.bbpub.pl. One of the biggest anticlimaxes
of 2012. Found in the venue that for many years
housed the uninviting London Steak House, the British
Bulldog pub saw the place completely rebuilt, a great year
round terrace added (where you can smoke) and the introduction
of British and Irish beers. A good looking menu and
satellite television promised some sort of choice for the
English speaking expat zloty. And then the British front man
leaves shortly after the re-launch and the place loses traction.
Far be it for us to declare this place as lost so early as
it still looks impressive and the beer is wet and the satellite
connected, but it’s got a lot to do particularly in the kitchen
and on the service front to get a thumbs up from us. QOpen
11:00 - 01:00. PAUGBW
Bufet Centralny B-4, ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. (+48)
532 74 91 60, www.bufetcentralny.pl. Houndstooth and
concrete don’t sound like the recipe for Warsaw’s hippest
bar, and when you throw in the view from the large patio - a
hulking parking garage - it sounds even more grim. But Bufet
Centralny is painfully cool, with its stark space populated by
drinkers that sport at minimum 3 tattoos apiece. We can’t
put our finger on exactly why they’ve become the ‘it’ bar (its
definitely not the service) but weekends this place is tighter
than a hipster’s jeans. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 05:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. PAG
Cafe Kulturalna (Culture Café) B-4, Pl. Defilad 1
(PKiN), tel. (+48) 22 656 62 81, www.kulturalna.pl.
Cafe, bar and club, Cafe Kulturalna is an amazing space,
and unmissable if you appreciate a venue with character.
Decorated with vinyl armchairs, artwork and tasteless
50s chandeliers this is a magnet for the student intelligentsia.
DJs, film screenings, readings and assorted artsy
tosh regularly held. Find it in the Palace of Culture on the
Marszałkowska side of the building next to the theatre in the
south-east corner. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
04:00. AUEGW
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com

62 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 63
Polish Friends of Beer Party
IYP_Capitol_Druk_free boutle.indd 1 1/23/12 6:15 PM
Sure, it started out as
a joke: In 1990 satirist
Janusz Rewinski formed
the Polish Friends of
Beer Party (Polska Partia
Przyjaciol Piwa
or PPPP in Polish) to
promote the country’s
second most beloved
polskapartianarodowa.org
beverage during the
new shift in government. The concept was popular
enough, in fact, to inspire a similar party in Russia as
well. And thanks to some disillusionment with Poland’s
democratic transition after the end of communism a
number of Poles voted for the prank party, and in the
1991 parliamentary elections 16 seats were nabbed
by the PPPP. What started out as a joke – their slogan
regarding the party running Poland: “it wouldn’t be
better but for sure it would be funnier” – evolved into
a semi-serious platform thanks to the newly acquired
seats. Of course, the divided cannot conquer, so when
the party split into Large Beer and Small Beer factions
it signalled the end of the jokey era, and eventually
the Large Beer faction transformed into the far less
humorous Polish Economic Program. Today little
remains of the group except for well-earned entries
in top ten lists of most ridiculous political parties and
Facebook groups celebrating the original idea: that
consuming quality beer is a symbol of freedom and a
better standard of living.
Champions Sports Bar & Restaurant B-4, Al.
Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. (+48)
22 630 51 19, www.champions.pl. A classic sports
bar filled with glittering trophies, signed shirts and other
sporting detritus. Some 30 screens and projectors beam
out action from across the world, while those wishing to
exercise more than their eyes can choose from pool tables,
playstations and dart machines that beep and whir during
moments of particular drama. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
PAUXW
Hard Rock Cafe B-4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Sure you
don’t need to see Freddie Mercury’s red leather pants to
enjoy a night out, but it certainly doesn’t hurt. The Hard Rock
Cafe’s large downstairs bar area is jumping at night even
when live rock shows aren’t on the agenda. The endless
bar mixes up a long list of colourful cocktails for a heavily
ex-pat crowd taking in paraphernalia like a well-worn Bee
Gees guitar and a black leather outfit that formerly clung
to Madonna’s early 90s frame. When music is on tap the
crowd becomes more varied (and youthful) but just as
devoted to the strum of a Fender. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
PAUEGW
Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22 (Praga), tel. (+48)
502 07 09 16, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. You will not
find a more unkempt bar than Hydrozagadka; this place
looks like it’s been ransacked by students, and it’s almost
advisable to check yourself for fleas when leaving. Decorations
aren’t so much limited as virtually non-existent, and
you won’t find much more than brick walls and a collection
of seats that appear to have been rescued from the rubbish.
But while it looks scruffy this has emerged as one of the
best places in town, with off-beat performances enjoyed
by a crowd that doesn’t get out of bed till way after noon.
Q Open Fri, Sat only 19:00 - 05:00 and during events.
PAUEXW
JP’s Bar A-3, Al. Jana Pawła II 21 (The Westin Hotel),
tel. (+48) 22 450 86 30, www.westin.pl/en. An airy
hotel bar whose name is actually a reference to the bar’s
designer, not the wildly popular Pope John Paul II. Light
coloured furnishings come interspersed by a smattering
of house plants which look on as a well-dressed yet casual
crowd enjoys expertly poured premium drinks in the finest
of settings. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00.
PAUGW
Kafefajka C-3, ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 101, www.kafefajka.
com. Duck inside Kafefajka and you’ll be rewarded with a bar
that simulates a Turkish tent complete with jangly music and
sweeping fabric hanging from the ceiling (and if you’re lucky,
a belly dancer or two). The draw here is water pipes with unusual
flavours; we’re partial to the melon, but apple-mint and
banana sound intriguing. The large space and open booths
are ideal for groups that like to pass the pipe and indulge
in Carlsberg or Okocim for less than 10zł. Also at (C-4), ul.
Nowy Świat 26/28 pav. 20. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 03:00. PAXW
Klaps C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 22/28 (Pavilion 12a).
Peculiarities abound in the drinking maze known as The
Secret Garden, but none come close to matching Klaps in
the weirdness stakes. There’s dildos for beer taps and a wall
of plastic boobs, and like everywhere in this area, you won’t
find beer costing more than 9zł. Finding it is a challenge in
itself - it’s close to the passage that connects the courtyard
to Smolna. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00, Mon 15:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 17:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. PAX
Konstytucja Klubokawiarnia F-4, Pl. Konstytucji
4, tel. (+48) 22 465 86 28, www.konstytucja.waw.
pl. Konstytucja Klub wants badly to be located at hip Pl.
Zbawicela, and to be a legitimate destination for your next
meal. It’s neither, but don’t strike it from your list just yet.
The beer list alone is why we’ll be returning, with more
than 30 local beers (Lwówek, Czarnków, Cormorant) and
even interlopers from Ukraine and the Czech Republic to
choose from. The menu card describes each in detail and
even offers pictures to boot, so your choices - regardless
of your blood alcohol level - will always be informed. Live
music on the weekend means you won’t be drinking alone,
either. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.
AUEGW
Kwadrat F-4, ul. Poznańska 7 (entrance from ul. Wilcza),
tel. (+48) 608 64 99 41, www.kwadrat.waw.pl.
One of our favourite finds this year, Kwadrat is a tiny little
place that’s not unlike popping round a mate’s house - provided
your mate had seven tables and a fridge full of beer. And
wow, what a fridge it is. Hiding inside it find some of the great
beers of Poland, the Czech Republic and Ukraine, including
Ciechan and Obolon: superb brews that do a lot to redress the
damage caused by the megabrand beers. There’s not much
more to this place, just a friendly welcome, cheap prices,
chilled out tracks and a hip 20s crowd usually engrossed in
some board game or other. Highly recommended, even more
so if you just want a good night with select friends. QOpen
16:00 - 22:00, Fri 16:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed
Sun. PAGW
Legends British Bar & Restaurant B-4, ul. Emilii
Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legendsbar.pl.
British owned and run, not 150 metres from the Marriott, this
is a resto-pub with a bright, clean look, four flatscreen tvs on
which you can watch SKY and Canal +, real dart boards and
a cracking menu of British-style grub to soak up the Polish
beer, British ales and rarely-seen spirits like Captain Morgan
dark rum. This is also one of the places that has built a new
indoor smoking room. To add that extra sports feel walls
come decorated with pictures depicting all the games the
British have invented for the rest of the world to beat them at.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PABXW
Panorama Bar & Lounge B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie
65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 630 74 34,
www.panoramabar.pl. Warsaw’s highest bar - and
indeed Poland’s - sits on the 40th floor of the Marriott
with prices to match the top tier location. The views of
Warsaw glimmering below are outstanding, and they’re
no longer the only reason to visit. Gone is the JR Ewing
glitz and chrome, replaced instead by a tasteful interior
consisting of flock print wallpaper, violet seating and clever
lighting. There’s no better place for Sleepless In Seattle
seduction, or a corporate chinwag. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00.
PAUEXW
Paparazzi B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. (+48) 22
828 42 19, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Not everyone’s cup
of tea perhaps, but every time we come here we always
think to ourselves ‘they get little wrong and a lot right.’
Serves good food - and the kitchen is open nearly as late
as the bar most nights (until 01:00) - good cocktails and
a decent pint. And, whisper it, but you can smoke here:
in fact, it is business as usual on the smoking front, as
the whole place is a smoking zone, apart from two small
tables at the entrance. That’s why it’s full when all around
is empty. Top marks. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun.
PAUXW
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
December 2012 - January 2013

64 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 65
Wine
Jung & Lecker B-4, ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. (+48)
22 866 67 49, www.jungilecker.pl. We loved the
back garden here, a cool courtyard space festooned
with paintings and plantlife. Good thing the rest of it
isn’t bad either as the garden is closed out of season.
A simple, chic design that doesn’t go overboard, a
wine list which is exhaustive, knowledgeable service
and an increasingly trendy location all win it points.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed
Sun. PAGW
NEW
Żurawina Rest & Wine B-4, ul. Żurawia 32, tel.
(+48) 22 521 06 66, www.zurawina.eu. One of
Warsaw’s most attractive new destinations, entering
Żurawina isn’t unlike attending an exclusive vernissage,
except instead of staring at esoteric art you
can train your eyes on the good looks of the glitterati
all around you. Nibble on the variety of bruschettas
that complement their large wine list and position
yourself to be seen through the wall-length street view
windows. There’s more filling fare as well of course,
and this is an ideal venue for impressing a date - the
swings hanging in the middle of the space are guaranteed
to make the two of you look absolutely adorable
together. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PTA6GSW
Sport on TV
We know that sometimes there’s a match and you just
have to see it. Where to go? Most bars with a screen will
subscribe to Canal + Sport, a channel that not only has
intensive coverage of the local sides, but also shows
English Premiership games each Saturday and Sunday.
The only downside is the droll Polish commentary rattling
on in the background. If you demand Sky Sports
then Warsaw has a number of decent options. All of
the following also relay the American version of football.
Legends British Bar & Restaurant B-4, ul. Emilii
Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legendsbar.pl.
Found 150 metres from the Marriott is a British
bar, run by a Brit and with Sky and Canal+ available. Add
in a British food and ale menu and you should be sorted.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 -
02:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PAXW
SomePlace Else C-4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton
Warsaw Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.
warszawa.someplace-else.pl. Located in the Sheraton,
SPE has flat screens stationed around an upmarket
industrial space - even during the Sunday brunch televisions
did double duty showing ski races and tennis. A
great menu of American classics like burgers and steaks
along with an extravagant selection of drinks. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
PAUEGW
Warsaw Tortilla Factory F-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel.
(+48) 22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl.
With Dubliner Niall in charge WTF have a set of screens
located around the bar, beer taps on tables, a killer
Tex-Mex menu and a separate smoking room. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PAEXW
NEW
Pardon, To Tu A-3, Pl. Grzybowski 12/14/16, tel.
(+48) 513 19 16 41, www.pardontotu.pl. There are
places that try to be cool, and then there are places that just
are. Pardon To Tu falls comfortably into the latter. A music
club for people who actually know and love music (not loud
bass and lasers), PTT essentially looks like someone rolled
the racks out of an indie record store, replaced them with
cheap tables and chairs and invited all their friends over.
Disinterested (re:cool) DJs play whatever they want for the
low-key crowd of hipsters and their dogs hanging out beneath
vinyl records that you can buy off the walls. They’ve got good,
cheap Italian food to curb the munchies and in summer the
space out front becomes a sprawling beer garden. Host to
frequent concerts and film screenings, this is a veritable cultural
centre and a great place to make new friends. QOpen
10:00 - 02:00. TA6UEGSW
Patrick’s Irish Pub B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 31, tel.
(+48) 22 628 93 71, www.patrickspub.pl. A grotty bar
that draws in sports fans and visiting stag parties in equal
measure. The air is thick with testosterone, the bar stools are
tree trunks covered in animal hides, there’s nary a peep of
daylight and the toilets are still in a sorry state. All appealing
for men, but ladies beware. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 03:00. PAEGW
Pies Czy Suka/Pure Bar B-3, ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel.
(+48) 22 881 83 73, www.piesczysuka.com. Pies
Czy Suka (“Dog or Bitch”) is a high-end design boutique
that opened a craft cocktail bar with stunning results. The
space itself is what you’d expect when design folk are in
charge: touchscreen menus and lots and lots of white. Yet
the imaginative drinks are they main focus, and though
they don’t arrive quickly, but they do come with a free show;
creating molecular foam and juicing figs takes some elbow
grease, and conversations are punctuated by the loud,
rhythmic thwack of ice against the cocktail shaker. The
recipes require the kind of precision normally reserved for
brain surgery, and unexpected ingredients like dry ice and
cranberry caviar can often mean your “drink” requires a
spoon. Expensive, but worth every zloty - try the Gin Basil
Smash or Tequila Rucola Smash. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 01:00. AGW
Plan B F-4, Al. Wyzwolenia 18, tel. (+48) 503 11 61 54,
www.planbe.pl. Walk up a curving stairwell to enter Plan
B, a venue where the ceilings are high and the windows are
low - so low you’ll have to crouch for views of pl. Zbawiciela.
Plan B has seen minimal investment, with a design that must
have set the owner back the price of a packet of sausages;
decor is limited to little more than tatty posters, white tiles
and sofas with springs practically sticking out of them. But
this place has become astonishingly popular, especially with
students and other sorts who look like they’ve just finished
band practice. Don’t be surprised to find the party spilling
outside, with gangs of drinkers chucking frisbees and sharing
sneaky puffs on Moroccan cigarettes. Drunkenness is
rife and encouraged, and it’s only fair to note this place has
become a bit of a magnet for expat lads looking to tap up
impressionable Polish girls. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 - 02:00. AEXW
Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra H-1, ul. Jagiellońska 22,
tel. (+48) 501 04 84 71, www.po2stronielustra.com.
This unique Praga bar used to be much like the district itself:
artsy, mysterious and a little bit junky. But after recently moving
locations, the bar has left behind the thick layers of grime
and history at their former Ząbkowska location and simply
brought their strongest suit - an endless collection of craft
beers - along with them to ul. Jagiellońska. Sure, it feels a little
weird to not stick to the tables and to use a toilet that has
an actual seat attached, but we’re happy to exchange that
“charm” for a more grown up (and cleaner!) headquarters.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. AEXW
Sheesha Lounge B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 3, tel. (+48)
22 828 25 25, www.sheesha.pl. Not your average Warsaw
hangout, Sheesha forgoes the mainstream dance hits
favoured by the competition to bring a slice of the orient
to your doorstep. The DJs play jangly rhythms as an occasional
belly dancer floats past tables filled with sheeshasmoking
Varsovians. The crowd, which seems to span all age
groups, is reliably fun and relaxed. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00,
Fri 10:00 - 04:00, Sat 16:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 - 02:00.
PAEBXW
Sketch C-3, ul. Foksal 19, tel. (+48) 602 76 27 64,
www.sketch.pl. Sketch is something of a Warsaw classic.
Set in a sterile white hall the bar’s major lure is the beer,
namely the best selection you’ll find in the city. There are
about 130 to pick from, and these range from gourmet
Belgian to banana stuff from Ghana. The heavy import duty
has been directly handed down to the customer, with some
bottles selling for a wincing 25zł, though you’ll find these
prices offset by calming lounge sounds and soothing lights
that glow from vertical columns. A smashing night, and one
which doesn’t end until you’re exactly that. QOpen 12:00 -
01:00. PAXW
Skwer - filia Centrum Artystycznego Fabryka
Trzciny B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 60a, tel.
(+48) 508 36 58 49, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. An offshoot
of Fabryka Trzciny, though a darn sight easier to get to than its
daddy bar/club. Situated inside a weird concrete bungle this
construction looks more like a car park than bar, but don’t let
that stop you from further investigations. Concerts are frequent,
and frequently excellent, as are the book signings and
vernissages. The location splat in the middle of Krakowskie
Przedmieście means there’s no shortage of lookers to train
your eyes on. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. PAUEGW
SomePlace Else C-4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw
Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.warszawa.
someplace-else.pl. Someplace Else is an expat legend,
and the comfortable open-plan space and industrial bar are
a great setting for the mix of live sports and music that can
be found here almost every night of the week. Still boasting
one of the best bar menus in the city - we’re fans of the Orient
Express burger - it’s easy to come for dinner and stay into the
night to sample from the long list of extravagant cocktails
(flaming Lamborghini, anyone?). QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEGW
Śródmiejska B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 66 (corner of ul.
Wilcza), tel. (+48) 22 629 25 76. Śródmiejska is the kind
of bar/hang out spot that we wandered past a million times
before going in. Why? Because we knew we’d be hooked.
Located in the middle of busy Marszałkowska, Śródmiejska
has so much space that you can catch the latest local warbler
in one room, nosh on their international menu in another
(Sri Lankan dishes!) or suck down drinks in the scattering of
chairs out front. The vibe is relaxed (so relaxed, in fact, that
you can expect to pay different prices for the same drink…).
An excellent spot to linger well into the night QOpen 09:00
- 01:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 13:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 -
01:00. AEXW
Metro Jazz Bar & Bistro F-3, ul. Marszałkowska
99a (Metropol Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 325 31 06,
www.hotelmetropol.com.pl. Bathed in a soothing
forest green glow this is a classic jazz bar where
aesthetic shortcomings are brushed over with a pot
of atmosphere. Take to one of the swivelly barside
stools to knock back the barman’s creations while
taking in nightly jazz performances that fluctuate
hugely in both style and volume. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
PAUEGW
Nu Jazz Zone C-4, ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. (+48)
22 621 89 89, www.jazzone.pl. A cavernous bar
decorated sparingly with slick furnishings and attractive
staff. Good cocktails, served by proficient
bartenders, and a strong fusion menu. The occasional
jazz performances can be excellent, and the basement
bar features comfortable seating and a big screen for
sports action. Neither loud nor lively, expect the tables
to be occupied by couples with single roses in front
of them. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
PAEGW
Piękna Bistro F/G-4, ul. Piękna 20, tel. (+48) 22
627 41 51, www.jazzzone.pl. Bright, modern, airy.
Piękna Bistro is everything you don’t expect of a jazz
bar, with a smart-casual set of customers picking at food
inside an attractive interior that could have come from a
catalogue. Recent renovations have created a modern
and inviting space to see live performances which are
consistently excellent, and better still, never loud enough
to completely sink conversation. Smokers will be happy
to note they can slip into the Espresso space to have
a puff. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.
PAUIEGW
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December 2012 - January 2013
Jazz

66 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 67
Warsaw Tortilla Factory F-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel. (+48)
22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. This longestablished
Tex-Mex bar is one of the go-to hangouts for ex-pats,
thanks in part to the Irish owner Niall, though discerning the various
accents becomes harder with every margarita and Corona
that goes missing. Once you’re inside there’s something for
everyone: Sky Sports on the TV, live music on weekends, a decent
pint of Murphys and 10zl tacos if you’re lucky enough to show up
on a Thursday. The global crowd is easy to mix with and accepting
of outsiders, especially when they buy the tequila shots. Added
bonus: the separate smoking room will save you a trip outside.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PAEXW
Warszawa Powiśle G-2, ul. Kruczkowskiego 3b, tel.
(+48) 22 474 40 84, www.powisle.blog.pl. Set in a former
ticket hall this PRL-era concrete rotunda proved one of the
hits of last summer, and a bit of a gathering ground for those
enjoying post-Luztro fix-me-ups. Interiors here are all cheap
and chipboard - tables included - and while it looks tatty and
torn it’s become a HQ of sorts for hardcore clubbers hiding
their horror behind reflective specs (which explains why the
neighbours want it shut down). How to find it? Walk down the
platform on Powiśle Station, then hang a right down the stairs.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. PAUGW
W Oparach Absurdu (In The Mists of Absurdity) H-1,
ul. Ząbkowska 6, tel. (+48) 660 78 03 19, www.oparyabsurdu.pl.
This bar could have a weird-off with fellow Praga bar Po
Drugiej Stronie Lustra that would easily end in a draw. Both favour
twinkle lights, flea market knick-knacks and crap furniture, though
Absurdu has embraced colour, and bright murals, to set it apart.
Absurdu is spread over numerous rickety levels and populated by
local bohemians who crave live music and strong drinks. A small
menu of snacks and Polish staples (yep, pierogis) are available
to line your stomach. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. PAUEXW
Znajomi Znajomych C-4, ul. Wilcza 58a, tel. (+48)
22 628 20 61, www.znajomiznajomych.waw.pl. With two
levels and a strange arrangement of rooms newcomer Zna Zna
can feel as if you’re wandering through an M.C. Escher drawing.
Here’s a primer: the first floor features a large smoking room
and several adjacent rooms with seating, and the main floor has
a bar with DJ/dance floor - we saw a keytar being played - and
more labyrinthine seating areas. The pile of taxis outside should
tell you this is currently one of Warsaw’s favourite places, with
huddles of hipsters and interpretive dancers sharing space
and spilling drinks together. There’s even a respectable menu
of pasta and pizza that’s available into the weekend wee hours
(weekdays 1 a.m., weekends 3 a.m.) to soak up the booze.
Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat
16:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PAEXW
Clubs
Clubs in Warsaw range from sedate to sinful, and we cover
the full gamut here. A night spent clubbing means you’ll most
likely greet the dawn because, unlike the closing times you
might be used to, Polish clubs stay open until the sun comes
up. Expect a cover charge at most venues that can range
from 5-20zl depending on events, and note that toilet paper is
often a luxury that seem to universally run out around 10 p.m.
For the specifics of what’s on daily visit warsaw.inyourpocket.
com and check out our Events Calendar, which givies you a
breakdown of all the evening’s club nights with one click.
1500m2 do wynajęcia H-3, ul. Solec 18/20, tel. (+48)
22 628 84 12, www.1500m2.com. Enormous, as in 1,500
square metres enormous, though strictly speaking still very
much the whispered meeting point of those In The Know.
There’s plenty of abandoned industrial space in Warsaw, and
places like this are finally utilizing it. It’s hard to define 1500m2,
and depending on the event you’ll find it functioning as either
a bar, club, concert venue or gallery - sometimes all four. The
interiors have seen it all, from a Valentine’s Fetish Ball to the
Prodigy Afterparty; this warehouse style ‘thing’ has hosted
some of the edgiest nights in town, so no wonder then some
scene people are touting it as the hippest haunt in the city. A
newly added restaurant called Bistro sto900 offers a place to
refuel as well. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
Thu, Sun. Open during the week when special events are being
held. Check Facebook for details. AEXW
Bank Club B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 14, tel. (+48) 22 468
85 10, www.bankclub.pl. Oh yes. A hit from day one this is
Warsaw’s latest bar and club of choice. We are no experts in
running a club (if we were we would own a chain of them) but
we know that whatever that certain something is which clubs
have to posses to be good, then Bank has it in abundance.
Smooth sounds, tastefully elegant decor and refreshingly
little kitsch. It is also a lovely building. With a well-aired smoking
section and drinks at a reasonable price it’s not only for
bankers, either. Q Open Thu, Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 04:00.
PAUEXW
Bollywood Lounge B-3, ul. Przeskok 2, tel. (+48) 22
827 02 83, www.bollywoodlounge.pl. A weird and horrid
location, you’ll find Bollywood sitting inside a nasty pre-fab
building overlooking kebab shops and potholed roads but
don’t be put off because while it promises little it delivers
plenty. Growing in popularity as the night moves on, it’s all
sequinned eastern drapes, scented water pipes and lowslung
armchairs. The staff with a few exceptions are Indian,
friendly and clearly know how to throw a party and the mix of
crowd sees Sikhs partying away alongside Polish blondies to
the sounds of Bhangra and disco. Poland is often perceived
to be not particularly cosmopolitan and rather conservative.
Bollywood kicks that perception right out of the park. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat
14:00 - 04:00. PAXW
Club Capitol B-2, ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. (+48)
608 08 96 71, www.clubcapitol.pl. Global recession
you say? Nobody told the chaps at Capitol, a jaw dropper
of a venue whose opening confirms north Warsaw’s status
as the official party part of the city. Filled with post-socialist
bling this venue is immense, and has seen the contents of
an oligarch’s deposit box thrown into impressive interiors.
A pneumatic set of breasts should be enough to guarantee
female entry, while boys should consider adding an arrogant
lope to their step and some designer horses to their clothes.
And the promoters haven’t been slouches either, having so
far secured the appearance of several club circuit legends.
There’s no set opening hours, though it’s safe enough to
assume that if it’s a weekend it’s open. Q Open Fri, Sat
only 21:30 - 05:00. PAXW
Club Mirage B-4, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance from ul. Emilii
Plater), tel. (+48) 22 620 14 54, www.clubmirage.pl.
A totally unique experience, this is a club like no other in
Warsaw. Not because it’s anything particularly special, but
because it is set in the bowels of the monstrous Palace of
Culture. Descend the stairs through the entrance facing the
central railway station into a mass of writhing young bodies
getting down around the centrepiece fountain. Once you’re
done there, retreat to the long bar and lounge area to relax
before heading back out into the surprisingly unpretentious
party crowd. The coat check looked after by moustachioed
men in their 50s gives a small hint of the days when this
place must have been frequented by the great and not so
good of communist Poland. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00, Wed, Thu
21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAEX
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December 2012 - January 2013

68 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 69
Dekada E-4, ul. Grójecka 19/25, tel. (+48) 22 823 55
58, www.dekada.pl. Adventures and amorous encounters
come guaranteed in this slice of Warsaw folklore, a direct
result of the people found inside. Here it’s all 007 Barbie
bombshells soaking up attention off expats twice their age,
an interesting mix that combines for colourful nights. Watch
the pantomime while sitting inside a 1950s tram, or else take
your chances on a dance floor that packs out most nights -
the musical menu changes daily, with weekends tending to
err towards disco and chart sounds. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00,
Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. May be open on
select Tuesdays if concerts booked. PAEX
de lite club C-4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.deliteclub.com.
Hot-pink newcomer De Lite already has a crush of
visitors wedging themselves on the dance floor and around
the backlit bar. A giant screen projects images on the wall
of the dance floor as DJs spin, while the elite can retreat to
a plush VIP area filled with couches and pillows for winding
down away from the masses. And yes, that’s an umbrella in
your cocktail. The quintessential club experience in Warsaw.
Q Open Wed 22:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 22:00 - 07:00 only.
PAXW
Fabryka Trzciny ul. Otwocka 14 (Praga Północ), tel.
(+48) 22 619 05 13, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. Housed in a
battered factory building this spot has the scummy charisma
of mid-90s Berlin. Brick walls, dials and pipes have been
left exposed, with leather sofas and red emergency lamps
sprinkled at random intervals. Edgy artwork and experimental
sounds complete the concoction. Not open daily, but you’ll
usually find special events going off each weekend and this
has emerged as one of the most popular haunts for private
fuctions, catwalk shows and launch parties. Q Open during
events only. PAUEGW
Foksal XVIII C-3, ul. Foksal 18, tel. (+48) 885 17 08 85.
The star-studded summer opening was our first clue that Foksal
XVIII aims to take the Warsaw club scene by storm. The interior
mixes swank (chandeliers) with urban (exposed brick) with the
inexplicable (cardboard animal mounts!) in this large basement
space. DJs keep the dance floor - accented with a massive disco
ball - packed for a crowd that is both classier and better dressed
than your typical booty-shaking slopfest. So visitors should take
note: To mingle with the A-list you’ll need to bring your A game.
Q Open Wed, Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 04:00. PAX
Opera B-2, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22 828 70 75,
www.operaclub.pl. A no-expense spared design masterpiece
found in the basement of the National Opera. Descend
the curving stairwell and all you’ll see is boys with attitude,
dressed in popped collared polo shirts, and a heart-stopping
spread of gazelle-like girls. If you were wondering where the
good lookers went, you’ve found the answer. Tread down wood
boards and through vaulted tunnels to reach the main arena,
checking out the numerous side rooms on the way; this place
was formerly known as Bedroom, and that’s because of the
alcoves found shooting off in every direction. Each comes
decorated with poufs, loungers and Persian drapes, and serve
as a great spot to enjoy illicit activities. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PAEXW
Organza B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. (+48) 513 13
77 44, www.kluborganza.pl. After a 10 year streak on the
Warsaw scene Organza had to close down and move, but
that short hiatus has not caused it to lose its footing. The
new black-and-orange bi-level space is regularly packed, and
apparently no one here thinks disco is dead as the regular
Wednesday “disco fever” dance parties attest. If hen parties
and students don’t make you cringe then neither will Organza.
QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue. PAX
Platinium Club B-2, ul. Fredry 6, tel. (+48) 22 596 46
66, www.platiniumclub.pl. Status is everything in Warsaw,
and you’ll be awarded plenty of it if you can wheedle past
the gatekeepers at Platinium. Door policy is stringent here,
mercilessly culling the beasts from the beautiful, thus ensuring
everyone inside is either rich or beautiful - sometimes
both. Regarded as Warsaw’s finest club this place, set inside
a historic former bank, has seen plenty of money spent, with
a design that includes marble columns, chandeliers and glowing
floors. This is champagne living Warsaw-style, meaning
hot sounds from the DJ decks and a riotous party that goes
way, way late. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 08:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAUEX
Room 13 Club & Lounge B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 13, tel.
(+48) 22 827 60 44, www.room13.pl. Warsaw has had
the benefit of a club explosion (clubsplosion?) lately, and after
visiting venue upon venue Room 13 is the one that stands
out. The interior has a striking fallen angel theme, with pillowy
clouds painted across the ceilings in the multiple rooms,
and giant images of what Victoria’s Secret has taught us
an ‘angel’ looks like. And if your idea of heaven is two bars,
VIP space, a wide array of music and lots of high heels, then
consider this your HQ. QOpen 22:13 - 05:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed, Sun. PAGW
The Eve Music Club B-3, Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. (+48)
604 14 54 62, www.theeve.pl. Run by the same team
behind Platinium, so expect a strict door cull to separate
the peasants from the players. Aimed at the rich and mighty
this design masterstroke scores points for a varied music
policy, and looks like flavour of the month among a playboy
set convinced they’re destined for celebrity - the VIP room
is like a scene from Caligula, with gleeful expats shooting
champagne over each other. Q Open Thu, Fri, Sat only
21:00 - 06:00. PAUEXW
Watch Me B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. (+48) 22 828
34 04, www.watchmeclub.pl. If we knew the exact recipe
for what makes one club door busting and the next a dead
zone we’d sell it by the bucketful. And our first client would likely
be Watch Me, a newcomer that hasn’t quite found its legs (or
its clientele) yet. The multi-level space isn’t necessarily doing
anything wrong - there’s a large dance space, capable barmen,
all the neon lights you could ask for - but so far it just hasn’t
caught on. Q Open Fri, Sat only 20:00 - 04:00. PAXW
Microbreweries
Bierhalle D-1, Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), tel. (+48)
601 67 79 62, www.bierhalle.pl. An industrial motif
prevails in Bierhalle, with giant tailor-made brewing vats,
brickwork and pipes springing from every corner. The beer
LET‘S FALL TOGETHER
IN ROOM13
Mazowiecka 13
+48 22 827 60 44
info@ room13.pl
www.room13.pl
www.facebook.com/room13club
WED-SAT: 22.13
is brewed on-site, and presented in frothy steins by wenches
squeezed into peasant bodices. Our favourite is the pils, and
it tastes even better when you ask for a dash of caramel to
be added to your brew. Domestic sad cases rejoice, bottles,
barrels even, of beer are available for takeaway. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. PAUGW
BrowArmia B-3, ul. Królewska 1, tel. (+48) 22 826
54 55, www.browarmia.pl. Warsaw’s other microbrewery
tends to live in the shadow of the more famous Bierhalle,
and though it fails to share the lively atmosphere of its rival
Browarmia is by no means second best. There’s a decent
design here, with all the requisite pipes, dials and tanks on
display, as well as a good menu that trounces the competition.
More importantly the beer is top standard and all,
and best imbibed on a seasonal terrace looking onto the
revamped Krakowskie Przedmiescie. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
PAEXW
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
December 2012 - January 2013

70 ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
Vice advice
Those who visited Warsaw in the nineties and around
the turn of the century may have lingering memories of a
seriously mucky city. With an estimated 1,500 brothels
in operation the city established a reputation as a destination
for hairy palmed perverts. Then along came the
late Lech Kaczynski as Mayor of Warsaw who became a
one man anti-sleaze machine driven by a zealous desire
to restore Warsaw’s lost innocence. While he never fully
succeeded in cleansing Warsaw of the brothels and the
flyers, Kaczynski’s crusade had a striking impact.
One of the results of this campaign is that Warsaw now
offers a collection of seemingly legitimate and, on the
whole, fairly presentable ‘Gentlemen’s Clubs. Brothels
still exist but not in the huge numbers that they once
did. Although there is no specific red light district you’ll
find a small concentration of brothels around al. Jerozolimskie,
ul. Wilcza and ul. Nowogrodzka. They’re simple
enough to find, just look for the flyers pinned to car
windscreens or clogging up the gutters. Don’t expect
English to be spoken, and don’t reckon on being greeted
by the sirens pictured on the aforementioned flyers.
Now, in the old days we’d use this space to fire some
recommendations your way. Legal factors now make
that a foolhardy path to pursue, so instead we advise
prospective punters to visit the Polish forums on www.
internationalsexguide.com, where the message boards
are alive with the latest despatches from the frontline, as
well as pics and maps from the more committed posters.
For independent girls check websites such as www.
odloty.pl and www.sexatlas.pl, where you’ll find a choice
of literally hundreds upon hundreds of feisty Polish girls
promising a lively time. Your third choice is to simply put
your faith in a taxi driver. More often than not this will involve
being driven to the suburbs and to whichever brothel
is giving the cabbie a kickback. Prices in these ‘high end’
establishments will tend to start at 200zl, though don’t
be tricked into buying champers for the lady unless you’re
sure you can afford it. Similarly, greenhorns should watch
their wallet in strip clubs - bills easily spiral, even more so
when the drinks start being poured.
Scumbag, fly-by-night brothels still exist; STDs are a
fact of the trade, and don’t think for one jiffy you’re
beyond reproach. Do not assume either that the Barbie
of your choice is in on the game because she enjoys rolling
around with aging baldies. Poland has an appalling
record where human trafficking is concerned, and it’s
safe to assume a fair few ladies staffing such venues
have been coerced into their ‘career’. Finally, the venues
listed here are generally central and established but
please be warned that in recent months we’ve had a
report of 8,000zl being spent willingly in one club listed
here and another of 8,000 sterling being spent unwillingly
in one which is not listed here. In the second case
half of the money was retrieved from the bank because
of ‘payment irregularities’ but be on your guard.
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Coyote Bar & Night Club B-3, ul. Mazowiecka
6/8, tel. (+48) 505 46 90 56, www.coyotebar.eu. On
the new Street of Sin that is ul. Mazowiecka, Coyote Club
is an adult entertainment establishment of the ‘girls in
their underwear which leaves little to the imagination will
dance for you’ variety. Drinks (the beers at least) are not
as outrageously priced as in other similar places and we
have to say that the girls we bumped into when we popped
in for a quick one were sirens. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00, Sun
20:00 - 03:00. PAUXW
Kokomo B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 53 (entrance
from ul.Pankiewicza 4), tel. (+48) 22 356 20 16,
www.kokomo.com.pl. One of the most central strip
bars in Warsaw, though don’t let that stop you taking
advantage of the Kokomo limo service. From there on
in it’s your eyes that will be doing all the work as they
pinball around their sockets focusing on the troupe of
pin-up bunnies. Two rooms to choose from, as well as
a well-stocked drink bar serving all the concoctions
necessary to complete your preview of heaven. QOpen
21:00 - 04:00. PAG
Libido Gentleman’s Club B-3, ul. Kredytowa 9, tel.
(+48) 22 828 23 07, www.libidoklub.pl. Newcomer Libido
was designed with the customer in mind: the large onyx
bar doubles as a runway for strippers, who sashay past
gaping customers (watch your drinks!) on their way to one
of three mid-bar poles. Head to the basement if you prefer
your dances more intimate, where closed-off booths let
the dancers get up close and personal for 50zl. Everything
from the coat check to the bathrooms is above board, a nice
change for those who like their entertainment without the
usual seedy undertones. Q Open 21:00 - 05:00. Closed
Sun. PAX
New Orleans Gentlemen’s Club B-3, ul. Zgoda
11, tel. (+48) 22 826 48 31, www.neworleans.pl.
From Monday to Thursday you’ll find the girls kitted out in
evening dress, with a higher-class of punter choosing the
girl of his dreams before sitting down to a good, intelligent
natter. Of course, this being a strip club, the removal of
the aforementioned evening dress is also an available option.
At weekends you’ll find New Orleans reverting to the
more standard formula, with girls tottering around in next
to nothing, and offering the usual hip-grinding action. Now
added, a ‘night restaurant’ with an ‘erotic’ menu featuring
oysters, lobster and Argie steak. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00.
PAXW
Sofia F-4, ul. Polna 13, tel. (+48) 22 224 25 24, www.
klubsofia.pl. A legend in nineties and noughties Warsaw,
there was a time no self-respecting male could leave Warsaw
without having first visited Sofia. Those days may have gone
and so it seemed had Sofia. But it appears not with the opening
of this place, three years after the original closed, just
down from Pl. Zbawiciela which boasts a modern spacious
club area and a host of minimally dressed women. In the wild
days of nineties Warsaw this was known in local parlance as
The Bulgarian Embassy. It’ll be interesting to see if it lives
up to the reputation it built then. Q Open 20:00 - 05:00.
Closed Sun. PAUX
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ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
December 2012 - January 2013
71

72 HISTORY
WHAT HISTORY TO SEE
Early fortified settlements are
believed to have existed in what is
now the district of Brodńo as far
back as the 9 th century, and while
historians struggle to conclusively
agree as to exactly when Warsaw
was founded most appear to accept
that the first recorded mention of
the city can be traced to 1313.
Things started looking up for the
city in 1413, when the ruling Dukes
decided to shift the capital of
Mazovia from Czersk to Warsaw. Over the next century it
gathered importance as a trading point, and was incorporated
into the Kingdom of Poland in 1526. The town was expanding
in both status and stature, though nothing was to prepare it
for the bombshell that arrived in 1569. The Union of Lublin
amalgamated Poland with Lithuania, and as such the decision
was taken to centralize parliament and move it from Kraków
to Warsaw. Twenty seven years later, in 1596, King Zygmunt
III Vasa decided to follow suit and shifted his Royal Court north
as well, thereby making Warsaw capital of this newly-formed
commonwealth. Of course, Warsaw then was a different
creature to the Warsaw of now. The old town area, secured by
its walls, consisted of 169 houses, while another 204 homes
stood just outside this protective boundary. In total just 14,000
people lived in the newborn capital.
Testing times lay ahead. Between 1665 and 1668 Warsaw was
ransacked three times, and if it the natives thought that was bad
you should have seen their faces in 1700; the Great Northern War
kicked off when an anti-Swedish alliance comprising of Russia,
Poland and Denmark launched the opening attack. The Swedes
weren’t having any of it, and by 1702 their counter-attack had
landed them at the gates of Warsaw. Over the next few years
Warsaw was passed back and forth like a bag of sweets, sustaining
heavy economic and physical damage in the process. The war,
a right epic scrap if ever there was, drew to a close in 1721 and
Warsaw was finally left to pick up the pieces and move forward.
The Collegium Nobilium, a posh boarding school for the
landed classes, was opened in 1740, and this was promptly
followed by Poland’s first library seven years later. This age
of enlightenment promised much for Poland, a fact not lost
on her three neighbours: Prussia, Russia and Austria. Little
Poland was clearly getting too big for her boots, so the three
acted swiftly by imposing the First Petition of Poland in 1772,
a move which essentially robbed the country of a third of
its territory and population. Nonetheless, her three bullying
neighbours clearly hadn’t counted on Stanisław August
Poniatowski, the country’s last king, and arguably her finest.
It was under his leadership the Constitution of May 3 rd was
ratified in 1791. This landmark code was the first of its kind
in Europe (and only second in the world after the USA), with
reforms focused on handing more power and freedom to
the general populace. Poniatowski was hailed as almost
visionary in his outlook, however his ideas once more stirred
his neighbours into action. This time round both Prussia and
Russia moved to weaken Poland in The Second Partition of
Poland (1793), snatching away 308,000 sq/km of territory,
and reducing her to just 223,000 sq/m.
Provoked by this latest aggression the Poles fought back
launching ‘The Peasant Uprising’ of 1794. Led by Tadeusz
Kościuszko the insurgents scored a notable victory at Racławicka,
but eventually superior numbers told and the rebellion ended in
surrender. The following year Russia, Prussia and Austria joined
together to carve what remained of Poland between them.
Napoleon offered the capital brief respite, and when his
armies marched eastwards in 1807 he created a semiindependent
Duchy of Warsaw. His failings on the battlefields
of Russia led to defeat, and within eight years Russian forces
had pushed the Frenchman back and regained Warsaw as
their own; Poland had effectively been wiped off the map.
Discontent with Russian rule was to come to a boil twice in the
following decades: first in the form of the November Insurrection
of 1831, and then again with the January Uprising of 1863. Both
rebellions were brutally crushed, and saw more patriots packed
off to serve penance in Siberia. Strangely, however, it was these
dark years that saw Warsaw blossom. Under the auspice of
Russian-born Mayor Sokrates Starynkiewicz the city developed
at lightning pace, and by the time of his death in 1902 the town
had acquired a modern sewage system, street-lighting, paved
streets and over 2,500 newly planted trees.
Still, resentment over foreign rule continued to linger, and it
was only the outbreak of World War One that promised hope.
The collapse of the Eastern Front saw the last Russian troops
leave in 1915, though these were immediately replaced
with German uniforms. Only when Germany signed the
armistice in 1918 was Poland finally freed from the shackles
of occupation. Arriving overnight in a sealed wagon, Jósef
Piłsudski, a patriot who had been imprisoned in Magdeburg,
reached Warsaw on November 11 to assume leadership of
the nation. By the time of his death in 1935 this national
hero witnessed the introduction of the złoty, a failed coup
and the assassination of President Narutowicz. Even allowing
for these, nothing came close to the defeat of the Red Army
during the Polish-Soviet War of 1919-1921, a triumph which
not just guaranteed Poland’s short-term future, but Europe’s.
The twenties and thirties saw Warsaw flourish into a
confident, successful city, alas, we all know what was to come.
September 1 saw Nazi Germany start WWII with their attack
on the Westerplatte Peninsula in north Poland. By morning
Luftwaffe squadrons were firebombing Warsaw, and in spite
of dogged resistance the capital finally fell on September 30 th .
The fate of the Jewish population, and the Warsaw Uprising, is
documented in detail elsewhere in the guide, so fast forward
instead to January 17, 1945. Liberation of sorts had arrived,
unfortunately for the Poles it meant spending much of the
following five decades under Soviet hegemony. In the wave
of Stalinist terror that followed businesses found themselves
nationalized, and political and religious leaders imprisoned.
Stalin died in 1953, but his legacy didn’t. The Warsaw Pact, a
military treaty between eight communist states, was signed
in 1955 the same year Stalin’s parting gift to the city the
Palace of Culture was completed. A year on Pozńan exploded
like a powder keg in what turned out to be the first street
demonstrations against communism. The communists
reacted in time honoured fashion, with their fists, and the
final score stood at 76 dead (unofficial estimates suggest
far, far more) and a city defeated.
In a bid to appease the people several hardliners were
dismissed and Władysław Gomułka was appointed as Poland’s
premier. Limited social reforms and a small-scale lifting of
press censorship followed, and a political thaw set in. This
veneer of social happiness was shattered in 1970 when new
protests broke out, this time in Gdańsk. Forty four died when
the army suppressed the demonstrations, and for a while
things appeared to settle down. Edward Gierek came in to
replace Gomułka as First Secretary, and he set about turning
the country round. Living standards increased, and for a time
Gierek carried the tag of miracle worker. He wasn’t. Gierek had
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
built a house of cards, propping up the Polish economy with
half-mad policies based on acquiring mountains of foreign
debt. The oil crisis of 1973 saw the creditors come calling and
by 1976 price increases were in the pipeline. A fresh batch of
riots broke out across the nation, and military might was once
more relied upon to bring the people to heel.
The public was starting to get restless, but their protests
needed focus and direction. That came in 1978 when Karol
Wojtyła, born in Wadowice close to Kraków, was appointed
Pope in 1978. Wojtyła, who had adopted the name John Paul
II, returned to Poland the following year, and his whirlwind tour
of the country is seen by many as the pivotal moment when
the nation gathered courage to defy the system. ‘Do not be
afraid’, spoke the pontiff to the masses, ‘change the image
of the land… this land’. It was a veiled message, but a clear
one, and from there on the fuse was lit.
In the form of Pope John Paul II the Poles had found a spiritual
direction, what was lacking was a physical one. That came
in the surprising shape of Lech Wałęsa, an unemployed
electrician with an extravagant moustache and a podgy look.
Within the space of a second he went from no-one to someone
and bulldozed Polish politics into the 21 st century. The year
was 1980 and workers in the Lenin Shipyards in Gdańsk were
fuming at the dismissal of a female crane operator. Talk and
promise of strike was rife, and the atmosphere heated. On the
spur of the moment Wałęsa climbed a gate and addressed
those below. Inadvertently he had made himself the public
face of Solidarność (Solidarity), a trade union that would
prove the slingshot that felled communism. This time round
the protestors had learned from their bloody mistakes and
rather than confronting the tanks simply locked themselves
in the shipyards. Leaders representing workers from across
the country joined, and hammered out a list of 21 demands
including the legalisation of trade unions. Days of tension
followed, with tanks and militia standing menacingly outside,
and for a moment Poland stood on a precipice.
Amazingly it was the government that backed down, on
August 31 it signed an agreement meeting the workers
demands. The first peaceful victory over communism had
been won.
This wasn’t to last – Solidarity continued to press for further
reform, and with the Soviet Union looking likely to invade the
Polish President General Jaruzelski declared Martial Law
on December 13, 1981. Though Solidarity was officially
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
dissolved, and its leaders imprisoned, it continued to operate
underground. When Father Jerzy Popieluszko, Solidarity’s
chaplain, was abducted and murdered by the secret police
over a million people attended his funeral.
Renewed labour strikes and a faltering economy forced
Jaruzelski into initiating talks with opposition figures in 1988,
and the following year Solidarity was once again granted
legal status. Soviet leader Gorbachev had made it clear he
wouldn’t intervene in Polish politics, and when Jaruzelski was
pressured into holding partly free elections Solidarity swept
the board with Wałęsa leading from the front. The regime
collapsed and in 1990 Wałęsa was elected the first president
of post-communist Poland. Shock capitalist tactics were used
to rotate Poland into a free market economy, and while this
left several losers the nation emerged stronger than before.
Acceptance into the European Union in 2004 was proof of
this, and Poland’s rise illustrated by the decision to award it
co-responsibility for the Euro 2012 Football Championships.
Today Poland, with Warsaw as its figurehead, stands as
an exemplary member of the EU, and notably was the one
European nation to avoid recession in the recent global crisis.
Warsaw’s Historical Timeline
1313: First written mention of Warsaw
1413: The regional capital of Mazovia is moved from
Czersk to Warsaw
1596: King Zygmunt III Vasa moves the Royal Court from
Kraków to Warsaw
1665-1668: The old town comes repeatedly under
siege, only just about surviving
1700: The Swedes invade Poland, capturing Warsaw
two years later and installing Stanisław Leszczyński as
a puppet king in 1704.
1764: Stanisław August Poniatowski is crowned King
1772: Poland is partitioned for the first time
1791: The historic May 3 Constitution is signed, inadvertently
prompting the second partition of Poland
two years later
1795: Third Partition of Poland
1807: A semi-independent Duchy of Warsaw is created
by Napoleon. It’s dissolved eight years later following
France’s military disasters and Warsaw falls once more
under Russian control.
1830: The November Uprising breaks out
1863: One more anti-Russian rising breaks out, this one
know as the January Uprising
1915: The Russians leave Warsaw in disarray but are
immediately replaced with Germans. Independence
takes another three years
1920: The Red Army is defeated at the gates of Warsaw,
saving post-war Europe from communism
1939: Nazi Germany invades Poland.
1943: Jews remaining in the Ghetto rise against the
Nazis. Their insurgency is crushed
1944: The people of Warsaw launch the Warsaw
Uprising, but are defeated following 63 days of resistance
1945: The Red Army liberates Warsaw but Poland is
forced to kowtow to Moscow for the next few decades
1989: The communist regime crumbles
2004: Poland enters the European Union
2010: Poland is plunged into national mourning after a
plane carrying President Lech Kaczyński and all on board
crashed while on its way to a memorial service in Katyń.
2012: Poland successfully co-hosts the Euro 2012
football tournament with neighbouring Ukraine (though
the Polish team didn’t make it out of the group stage).
December 2012 - January 2013
73

ESSENTIAL WARSAW
WHAT TO SEE
74 75
Sightseeing and Warsaw
don’t usually go together,
and the blame for that falls
on her citizens. While some
cities may have been happy
to wait out Nazi occupation,
the Warsaw locals
were having none of that.
The ensuing uprising which
took place in 1944 would
become both the most glorious
and tragic episode in
the city’s history. Doomed
from the outset the Warsaw
Uprising enraged Hitler, and
his retribution proved swift
and brutal. Warsaw was to
be wiped from the face of the map, and his cronies set about
their orders with a zealous fury. While Red Army tanks stood
stoically stationed across the river the Nazis set about blasting
western Warsaw from the map. Anything deemed of cultural
importance was dynamited, and whole districts were set on
fire. By the time ‘liberation’ arrived, over 90% of the city lay in
total ruin. ‘I have seen many towns destroyed, but nowhere
have I been faced with such destruction,’ commented a visibly
moved Eisenhower on a later visit to the city. That the city still
stands at all is tribute enough to the indefatigable spirit of the
Polish capital.
Nowhere bore the brunt of the Nazi malice more than the Old
Town, and it’s here that most tourists will choose to start
their tour of Warsaw. Using paintings and photographs as an
architectural blueprint the Old Town was painstakingly rebuilt,
the reconstruction of the historic centre only completed as late
as 1962. The areas inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage
List speaks volumes for the effort involved, and nothing is more
striking than the colourful, wonky-looking burgher houses that
frame the Old Town Square (B1/2, Rynek Starego Miasto).
The historic centre is also home to numerous churches, including
the striking St John’s Cathedral (B-2, ul. Świetojańska
8) whose details number the gothic artworks of Wit Stwosz
as well as the tombs of knights, regents and eminent citizens.
Marking the edge of old town is the Royal Castle (B-2, pl.
Zamkowy 4), reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incredible
cost between 1971 and 1984. The prescribed tour will
take you through the Kings’ apartments and chambers,
heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments.
Although you’ll find plenty of photographic opportunities in
and amongst the tight cobbled alleyways save a few shots for
the viewing platform at the top of St Anne’s Church (B-2, ul.
Krakowskie Przedmieśćie), and don’t leave the area without
first exploring the lesser known delights of the New Town.
Joanna Kortas
Paul Kowalow wikipedia.pl
There is far more to Warsaw than its old town however,
and one museum that demands to be visited is the
Warsaw Uprising Museum (D-3, ul. Przyokopowa 28). It’s
here, inside Poland’s best museum, that you’ll learn about
the city’s doomed rebellion against the Nazis in 1944.
Packed with interactive displays, photographs, video
footage and miscellaneous exhibits this is guaranteed to
leave a deep mark on all visitors, and will go a long way
in explaining why Warsaw is far from the architectural
pearl it once was.
Although the Nazis flattened
the Jewish Ghetto
after a heroic uprising
in 1943 there are still
traces of Warsaw’s Jewish
past, including a remaining
piece of the Ghetto
wall (E-3, ul. Sienna 55),
a memorial where the
loading ramp to Treblinka
once stood (E-1, Umschlagplatz)
as well as
one of the largest Jewish
cemeteries in Europe (D-1,
ul. Okopowa 49/51). Most
recently, a trail marking the Ghetto boundaries has been
unveiled, it’s course interspersed with 21 dual-language
plaques at sights of specific interest.
The city’s defining landmark however has to be the fearsome
Palace of Culture and Science (B-4, pl. Defilad 1). Looking
like something you’d see in Ghostbusters the building towers
at just over 231 metres in height - making it the tallest
and largest structure in Poland. Commissioned by Stalin as
a ‘gift from the Soviet people’, it was completed in 1955,
and built using an estimated 40 million bricks the crowning
glory is the viewing platform on the 30th floor. While it’s
the most obvious, it’s not the only example of the Socialist
Realist style, and visitors have plenty to marvel at from the
everyman residential units of Muranow and pl. Konsytucji,
to the stern looking block that once housed Communist HQ
(ul. Nowy Swiat 6).
Across the river the Praga suburb is undergoing a long due
revival, and its growing reputation as an artistic haven is
evident in the cafes that have sprung up along the pre-war
Zabkowska street. But while the Praga area is breathing
once more, it still looks shabby. For a glimpse of Warsaw’s
Imperial beauty head instead to her palaces, in particular
Łazienki Park and Palace (G-4, ul. Agrykola 1) and Wilanów
Palace - dubbed ‘The Polish Versailles’ - (ul. Stanisława
Kostki-Potockiego 10/16).
Churches
Many Poles still see a direct connection between the church
and patriotism, explained much by the fact that during centuries
of oppression by neighbouring powers, the church
helped the nation of Poland to survive by giving Poles an
identity. Although on the wane in post-communist Poland,
the church still plays an important role in many people’s
lives and churches reflect the importance of religion in the
history of the Polish nation.
Holy Cross Church (Kościół Św. Krzyża) C-3, ul.
Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10,
www.swkrzyz.pl. No Chopinologist can leave Warsaw without
first visiting the final resting place of his heart. Added to
the church in 1882 his heart was sealed in an urn and then
placed behind a tablet bearing his likeness specially carved
by Leonardo Marconi.
Although this serves as the church’s key draw there’s several
other features of note to tempt the visitor inside this
astonishing Baroque creation. The church’s history originally
dates from the 15th century when a small wooden
chapel stood on the site. Destroyed during the Swedish
Deluge of the 1650s, the church was rebuilt in 1682,
with the cornerstone being ceremoniously laid by Prince
Jakub, son of King Jan III Sobieski. Designed by the royal
architect, Jakub Bellotti, it was completed in 1696 though
over time would see numerous additions to its shape.
The most notable of these would come in the following
century when Józef Fontana added two Baroque crowns
to the square-cut twin towers. His son Jakub would later
extensively refurbish the façade with Jan Jerzy Plersch
adding elaborate decorative touches to the interior.
Throughout history the church has played its role in Warsaw’s
glories and calamities. It was here that the last Polish King
forged the Order of the Knights of St Stanislaus, and it was
directly outside in 1861 that Russian troops brutally suppressed
a patriotic protest. It was this bloodbath that lit the
touchpaper for the January Uprising of that year. Devastated
during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944 the church was painstakingly
rebuilt at the end of the war and is today a feast for the
heart, eyes and soul. The organ (built in Salzburg in 1925) is
the largest in Warsaw, and other points of note include an
urn with the remains of Nobel Prize winning author Władysław
Reymont, and tablets honouring various Polish icons including
poet Juliusz Słowacki and WWII hero Władysław Sikorski.
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00. No visiting during
mass please.
Jesuit Church (Kościół Jezuitów) B-2, ul.
Świętojańska 10, tel. (+48) 22 831 16 75, www.
laskawa.pl. Built at the behest of King Zygmunt III Waza’s
confessor, Piotr Skarga, this lovely little Renaissance
church was constructed between 1609 and 1626 for
the city’s Jesuit community. Having had something of a
varied and colourful history to say the least, it suffered
at the hands of the Swedes in the latter half of the 17th
century, who looted it of its entire contents, and it even
spent time as a storehouse during the Partitions. Also
known as the Holy Mother of Grace Church after the city’s
patron saint, the church was returned to the Jesuits at the
end of WWI only to be destroyed by the Germans in 1944.
Rebuilt between 1948 and 1957, the church has a few
remaining original interior parts - of particular interest is
the 17th-century picture of the Holy Mother herself. The
crypt, not open to visitors, contains the remains of Prince
Karol Ferdynand Waza and Maciej Kazimierz Sarbiewski
(1595-1640), the Jesuit priest, poet and court preacher
to King Władysław IV. QOpen 09:30 - 19:00. No visiting
during mass please.
Adventure Warsaw ul. Mińska 25 (Praga
Południe), tel. (+48) 606 22 55 25, www.adventurewarsaw.com.
Tours of Warsaw including the popular
“off the beaten path” tour which delves into Socialism,
communism and of course vodka, all while cruising in
a vintage Nysa 522. Group, private and walking tours
also available from this crew of young, enthusiastic
local guides, who will even take you out your stag party
or host a pub crawl.
City Sightseeing Warsaw, tel. (+48) 793 97
33 56, www.city-sightseeing.pl. If Warsaw needed
proof that it has finally arrived as a tourist destination
surely the launch of City Sightseeing is it. Tours by way
of a familiar red, double-decker bus let you take in sights
such as the Palace of Culture, the Royal Castle, Łazienki
Park and the Wybrzeże Gdańskie. Buy one ticket and hop
on and off the bus as you please. The bus departs from
the Palace of Culture on the Emilii Plater side every hour
between 11:00 and 15:00 Mon-Fri and 11:00 - 17:00
Sat and Sun. Commentary available in a multitude of
languages including English, Polish and Japanese. See
their website for tour details, routes and timetables. Q
Tickets 24hr 60zł, 48hr 80zł.
Eastern Station Warsaw, tel. (+48) 513 60 55
18, www.easternstation.eu. Warsaw’s first bike tour
company gets it right with six different 3 hour unique
routes that take visitors to places that promise great
photo opportunities and streets that stray from the
usual Old Town tourist traps. The Wild Vistula trip gets
you up close to the river that splits the city while the
Cold War HQ trip will have you climbing through a three
story underground Atomic Command Headquarters.
Trips are by request only. Those who prefer a walking
tour can meet at King Sigismund’s Column daily at
11:00 for a 2-hour wander through Old Town (free, but
be sure to tip).
The Connoisseur Tour, tel. (+48) 600 97
26 28, www.monopolpraski.pl. If you consider
Warsaw synonymous with vodka, this is the tour for
you. Meet at Sigismund’s Column for a chance to
learn about where this nectar comes from and how
its made. The tour includes sightseeing in Old Town,
Praga and at the former Koneser vodka factory as
well as samples of Polish vodka and appetisers. The
tour lasts around 3.5 hours and can be organised in
German, Italian, Russian or English at a cost of 140zl
per person. Adults only.
Warsaw City-Tour, tel. (+48) 500 03 34 14, www.
city-tour.com.pl. Bus tours of Warsaw on a yellow
double-decker bus. The tours start from the bus stop
on ul. Królewska and run at 09:50 and 11:50. The route
takes about 1.5 hours to cover and covers all the major
sites in the city including Old Town, Jewish Warsaw,
WWII, Palace of Culture and Lazienki Park. Be sure to
note this special promotion: one-day tickets are valid for
two days and two-day tickets are valid for three days! Q
Single journey ticket 40/34zł. One day ticket 60/54 zł.
Two day ticket 80/72zł. Family tickets (2 adults and 2
children) 205zl/day, 274zl/2days; 130zl single journey;
(2 adults and 3 children 254zl/day, 340zl 2 days; 160zl
single journey). One and two day tickets offer hop on/
hop off option.
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
December 2012 - January 2013
Tours

76 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE 77
Krakowskie Przedmieście...
Visits to Poland’s most prestigious street, Krakowskie
Przedmieście, start by the Royal Castle, next to the
sabre rattling statue of King Sigismund. A popular
meeting point with lovers and buskers alike we’d
suggest you start your tour by taking the Socialist
Realist era escalator. From there head to St Anne’s a
neo-classical effort that survived the war but came
within a whisker of collapse when work began on
the W-Z tunnel running beneath it. The 1949 tunnel
project caused several landslides and it took a team
of 400 workers two weeks to shore the foundations
and stabilise the soil. But the real hero of the hour
was Romauld Cebertowicz, a professor who invented
a way of solidifying the soil by way of directing electric
currents into it. The interiors of St Anne’s house
numerous intricate details, but the real reason for
visiting is the ‘taras widokowy’, a viewing platform on
top of the next door tower.
Next, make a beeline for the Mickiewicz monument
that honours Poland’s best loved bard. This statue was
erected in 1898, the centenary of his birth. Unveiled
at a time of Imperial Russian repression the very
creation of his likeness was regarded as something of
a bombshell, and over 12,000 patriotic Poles turned
up to cheer the ribbon cutting. Standing just behind
is one of the Warsaw’s biggest mysteries. Everyone
knows the pink building with that great big chunk
missing from its facade, but what the devil is it? Built
in 1784 to serve as a traveller’s inn this mysterious
structure is actually student digs, as well as home
to a branch of the WBK bank and a music shop. The
17th century Camelite Church next door is one of the
original examples of the classicist style to be found
in Poland, and comes topped off with a sea green orb
representing the world.
Next up it’s the Presidential Palace, that fenced-off
building guarded by stone lions and stern soldiers.
Construction on it started in 1643 at the behest of
Stanislaw Koniecpolski, though was only completed
after his death. It passed into the hands various aristocratic
families and in the 18th century became the
famed venue for lavish society banquets. None were
more celebrated than the party held to celebrate the
coronation of Stanislaw II August Poniatowski in 1789;
over two million zloty was spent on entertaining 4,000
guests, a sum which must have been unheard of in
those days. But it was money well spent; Poniatowski
would prove to be one of Poland’s finest monarchs, and
the constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on these very
grounds, is recognized as Europe’s first.
When Poland regained independence in 1918 the
reconstructed building was commandeered to serve
as home to the Prime Minister and his Council of
Ministers. When Herman Goering visited in 1937 he
spent so much time pottering around admiring the
architectural details he was late for his meeting with
the Polish Foreign Minister. It saw more momentous
events in 1955, this time when the Warsaw pact – the
Soviet Union’s answer to NATO – was ratified within
its walls. In 1989 round table talks between the communists
and opposition were held here, paving the way
for political freedom, and in 1994 it was appointed as
the official home of the Polish president.
Military Cathedral (Katedra Polowa Wojska
Polskiego) B-2, ul. Długa 13/15, tel. (+48) 22 687
77 02, www.katedrapolowa.pl. Comprised of both the St.
Francis of Assisi Church and monastery and built between
1662 and 1663 by the Piarist friars, the extraordinary
Military Cathedral, also known as the Church of Our Lady
Queen of the Polish Crown, is the capital’s main garrison
church. Having spent time as an Orthodox Church, prison,
orphanage and a depot for German soldiers during WWI the
church was reconstructed based on original 17th-century
drawings after independence in 1918 and became the seat
of the field bishop of the Polish Army. Again rebuilt after its
destruction during WWII, the church is now decorated with
a peculiar mix of religious and military artefacts, including a
number of large oil paintings depicting the most well known
of Poland’s battles and uprisings. Q No visiting during
mass please. Open by prior arrangement and for groups
only. Alternatively view the interior through the bars or get
in before the mass at 18:00.
St. Anne’s Church (Kościół Św. Anny) B-2, ul.
Krakowskie Przedmieście 68, tel. (+48) 22 826 89
91, www.swanna.waw.pl. St Anne’s survived the war
with a few token scratches and a collapsed roof, but what
the Nazis failed to destroy was very nearly demolished by a
team of incompetent builders - by 1949 the whole church
threatened to come crashing to the ground. The thoughtless
construction of the nearby Trasa W-Z tunnel had led to
several landslides, resulting in huge cracks appearing in the
floor of the church. It took a team of 400 people two weeks
of tireless work to stabilise the undersoil and shore up the
foundations. Intriguingly, this wasn’t the first time St Anne’s
had survived vicious conflict to find disaster around the
corner. It escaped destruction during the war with Sweden
(1650-1655) only to be gutted by fire two years later, apparently
the victim of an arson attack. The classicist façade
dates from 1788 and is the design of the royal architect Piotr
Aigner. The interior holds even more classicist and rococo
details. The viewing tower is one of the best in Warsaw and
worth the 147-step climb.
One other point of interest concerns a simple wooden cross
you will see there. These two planks of wood became the
focus of a battle that threatened to divide the country in
the summer of 2010. To read the story behind that see our
piece on the presidential cross. Q Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sun
08:00 - 22:00. No visiting during mass.
St. Benno’s Church (Kościół Św. Benona) B-1,
ul. Piesza 1, tel. (+48) 22 578 70 10, www.swbenon.
redemptorysci.eu. Benno’s has a wacky history. King Sigismund
III was a devotee of St. Benno and invited peer priests
from Bavaria to Warsaw in the 17th century. Their main aim
was to support Germans living outside their home country.
Ironically, in 1944, the chapel was blown to smithereens by
you-know-who. Rebuilt by the Poles in 1958, it now has an
interesting interior dating from 1977. Q Open during mass
and by prior arrangement.
St. Casimir’s Church (Kościół Benedyktynek
- Sakramentek) B-1, Rynek Nowego Miasta 2, tel.
(+48) 22 831 49 62, www.sakramentki.opoka.org.pl.
Founded by Mary Sobieski, wife of King Jan III Sobieski, to
commemorate her husband’s victory over the Turkish army
at the Gates of Vienna. The baroque-style church was designed
by Tylman van Gameren and was completed in 1692.
In 1944 it served as a Polish field hospital, and received
a direct hit from a German bomb, killing more than 1,000
civilians, priests, nuns and soldiers who were inside. Today
it has been fully restored and has a charred wooden cross
as tribute to those who died. Q Open by prior arrangement.
St. Francis Seraph Church (Kościół stygmatów
Św. Franciszka Serafickiego) B-1, ul. Zakroczymska
1, tel. (+48) 22 831 20 31, www.warszawa.franciszkanie.pl.
Completed in 1733 this baroque masterpiece holds
the remains of St Vitalis; see the glass coffin for yourself by
visiting the chapel to your left. Many of the religious relics
found scattered around were donated by Pope Benedict XIV
in 1754, and this church is also entered in the history books as
holding the first free mass in Warsaw following the flight of the
Nazis. Q Open 06:00 - 20:00. No visiting during mass please.
St. John the Baptist Cathedral (Bazylika Archikatedralna
Św. Jana Chrzciciela) B-2, ul. Świetojańska 8,
tel. (+48) 22 831 02 89, www.katedra.mkw.pl. Originally built
in the 14th century, St. John’s is steeped in history. The last king of
Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, was crowned and eventually
buried here, and in 1791 he also declared the Constitution of
May 3 inside the building. The crypt holds the bodies of Henryk
Sienkiewicz (writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Poland’s first president)
and various Mazovian knights, but its currently off-limits due to
renovations. Other interesting details to look for include the covered
walkway that links the Cathedral with the Royal Castle. It was added
in 1620 as a security measure following a failed assassination
attempt on King Sigismund III. As with most major landmarks, it
was the scene of heavy fighting during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising
and was subsequently left in a heap of ruins before being rebuilt
in pseudo-gothic style. On the external wall by the main entrance
are fragments of a Goliath - a remote-controlled tank used by the
German army. A 17th century bell made by artisan Daniel Tym (who
also made the statue of King Sigismund III atop the famed column)
can now be found in the centre of ul. Kanonia (B-2). The bell itself
never rang at the cathedral, but it has developed its own legend:
touch the top of the bell and walk its circumference and your wish
will come true. Q Open 10:00-17:30, Sun 15:00-17:30. No visiting
during mass please.
St. Mary’s Church (Kościół Nawiedzenia NMP) B-1,
ul. Przyrynek 2, tel. (+48) 22 831 24 73, www.przyrynek.
pl. Scan the horizon of the New Town and chances are you’ll
find your eyes settling on the Gothic shape of the Church of the
Visitation of St Mary. Built in the 15th century on the whim of a
Mazovian princess this brick beauty allegedly stands on the site
of an ancient pagan place of worship. Extensively remodelled
over the centuries it was rebuilt true to its original form after
WWII. Q Open half an hour before and during mass only.
Monuments
Adam Mickiewicz Monument (Pomnik Adama
Mickiewicza) B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5.
Patriot, poet and the man who inspired Romanticism in Poland,
Mickiewicz stands out as Poland’s greatest literary figure - as
well as a figure of hope during a bleak age of Russian oppression.
His involvement in politics saw him exiled east in 1824 by
the ruling Russians, before finally heading to western Europe in
1829. A bid to return to his homeland in 1830 was thwarted at
the border, and he never saw his native Poland again.
Much mystery surrounds his life; his role as a national cultural
icon meaning that much of the seamier side of his life has been
covered up, including his involvement in strange cults and alleged
womanising. To this day, even his birthplace remains a hot
source of argument. Some say Nowogródek (Lithuania), others
say the nearby Zaosie. A champion of freedom, he died during
a cholera outbreak in Turkey, 1855, while recruiting a Polish
legion to fight the Russians in the Crimea. Originally buried in
Paris, Mickiewicz’s body now lies in Wawel Cathedral, Kraków.
His defining masterpiece, Pan Tadeusz, is a beautifully written
epic portraying Polish society in the 19th century. His statue
dominates ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, and traces of bullet
holes dating from WWII are still visible on the monument.
...Krakowskie Przedmieście
Urbanlegend
Next door it’s the Le Meridien Bristol Hotel, long regarded
as one of Warsaw’s most exclusive hotels. Tread
through the marble lobby and you’ll learn why; etched
in brass by reception you’ll find the names of dozens
of celebrities who’ve stayed here, including Picasso,
Nixon and Dietrich. An even more interesting story
can be found opposite, namely inside ul. Krakowskie
Przedmieście 13. A superb bygone creation the Hotel
Europejski closed its doors in 2006 following nearly 130
years of service. Built on the site of a guesthouse called
the Gerlach the Europejski was funded by publisher
Aleksander Przezdziecki, and inspired by the designs he
had seen on his world travels. Touched up by architects
like Henryk Marconi it came to be known as Warsaw’s
first modern hotel. The hotel, which once greeted The
Rolling Stones, Robert Kennedy, Marlene Dietrich and
Indira Ghandi might have closed, but its current owners
have big plans. The lower floors are already occupied by
trendy spots like U Kucharzy, and there’s plans afoot to
develop the upper floors into luxury apartments, offices
and a prestigious hotel. Heading back on yourself don’t
miss a quick look in at ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście
15. Now home to the Ministry of Culture and Art this is
where Napoleon met his paramour Marie Walewska at
a ball held in his honour.
One thing that won’t have escaped your notice at this
stage is the preponderance of young people, some of
them carrying books, others staggering out of bars. Yep,
you’ve guessed it, the university is here, its main campus
lying behind the grand gateway at number 26/28. Dating
from the 17th century the main building, known as Villa
Regia, was remodelled and renovated several times,
before finally being earmarked as the home of Warsaw’s
new university. Established in 1819 and opened for class
a couple of years later the uni had a tough time under
Russian rule. Closed in retaliation for the 1830 - 31 Uprising
the university continued to operate underground,
though by 1859 the Tsar had been placated enough to
the extent he rubber stamped the creation of a School
of Medicine. Today, with some 57,000 students on the
roll call the university stands out as the largest in Poland,
as well as one of the best - a title hotly contested with
Kraków’s Jagiellonian Uni. Notable alumni include former
Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz,
award-winning hack Ryszard Kapusciński, the late president
Lech Kaczyński and poet Julian Tuwim.
Having failed in your attempt to get a few phone numbers
from the student body cross the street making a line for
the Church of the Holy Cross. Much has been written
about this place, so we won’t add anything other than
make sure you put it on your list of unmissables. Finally,
at the end of KP, it’s Copernicus himself and his statue
has also played its part in Warsaw’s recent history.
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78 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE 79
Cemeteries
Augsburg Lutheran Cemetery (Cmentarz
ewangelicko-augsburski) D-2, ul. Młynarska
54/56/58. Designed by Szymon Bogumił Zug in 1792
this treasure contains the elaborate tombs of countless
movers and shakers. Those interred include Samuel
Bogumił Linde - author of Poland’s first dictionary - and
Poland’s version of the Willie Wonka family: the Wedel’s.
Highlights include a cast iron chapel dating from 1821.
Calvinist Reformed Cemetery (Cmentarz
ewangelicko-reformowany) D-2, ul. Żytnia 42,
tel. (+48) 22 632 03 30. As well as containing the
remains of writer Stefan Żeromski, this cemetery is also
the resting place of the youngest victim of Pawiak Prison
and the then Gestapo regime, Kaj Silversjold aged six
months. Be sure to check out the Teutonic style inscriptions
on some of the graves. Looming over it all is the
Kronenburg mausoleum, a striking necropolis built for
one of Warsaw’s most famed industrialists. Q Open from
08:00 till dusk; Sat, Sun from 09:00 till dusk.
Italian Military Cemetery (Cmentarz Żołnierzy
Włoskich) ul. Marymoncka (Bielany). Originally established
in 1926 the Italian cemetery holds the bodies of
868 soldiers killed on Polish territory during WWI, and a
further 1,415 killed during the course of WWII. Maintained
by the Italian Embassy the cemetery features an entry
gate complete with legionnaire shields, and a central
avenue leading to a grandiose monument.
Northern Cemetery (Cmentarz Komunalny
Północny) ul. Wóycickiego 14 (Bielany), tel. (+48)
22 834 48 08. One of Europe’s largest cemeteries, and
a relatively new addition to the city. Created in 1973 this
vast graveyard contains over 135,000 graves, including
those of poet Edward Stachura, German WWII casualties,
and the bodies of those killed in Poland’s biggest
air disaster - the 1980 LOT plane crash just outside the
city limits. Q Open from 08:00 till dusk.
Powązki Catholic Cemetery (Cmentarz
Powązki) D-1, ul. Powązkowska 14, tel. (+48) 22
838 55 25. Warsaw’s biggest, oldest and most beautiful
cemetery. Famous corpses include the poet Leopold
Staff, aviators Żwirko and Wigura, and Nobel prize
winner Władysław Reymont. It also contains the ‘grave’
of Stefan Starzyński, the mayor of Warsaw at the time
of the German invasion. His body was never recovered
after he was detained by the Gestapo. Vast areas of
the cemetery are taken up by Home Army soldiers killed
during the Uprising. QOpen 07:00 - 16:00.
Soviet War Cemetery (Cmentarz Mauzoleum
Żołnierzy Radzieckich) E-6, Al. Żwirki i Wigury
10. Dominated by a huge needle-like monument this
is one of the first Warsaw landmarks seen on the way
from the airport. The towering monument features some
interesting socialist reliefs depicting Red Army troops
liberating Polish civilians, and the inscription reads ‘To
the memory of the soldiers lost in the liberation of Poland
1944-1945’. Mass graves containing the remains of
20,000 soldiers flank each side of the memorial.
Warsaw Uprising Cemetery (Cmentarz
Powstańców Warszawy) ul. Wolska 174/176
(Wola). Approximately 40,000 participants in the ‘44
Uprising are buried here, their resting places marked with
wood graves and red and white sashes.
Charles de Gaulle Monument
(Pomnik Charlesa
de Gaulle’a) C-4, Rondo de
Gaullea. Charles de Gaulle is
the subject of one of Warsaw’s
newer monuments. Striding
away from what was once the
Commie party HQ, the monument
is a gift from the French
government and can be found
on (C-4) Rondo de Gaulle’a.
A resident of Warsaw in the
1920s, de Gaulle is a bit of a
hero in these parts for the role
he played in The Battle of Warsaw in 1920. With Europe in
turmoil following the aftermath of WWI the Red Army launched
a huge military strike, aimed at enslaving the rest of Europe.
The Bolsheviks expected an easy march to Paris, but the
Poles has other ideas. With the Red Army just 23km from
Warsaw Marshal Piłsudski launched a deft action to split the
Bolshevik forces in two and encircle them. The battle raged
from August 13-August 25, 1920, with the Poles claiming a
historic victory in what Woodrow Wilson went on to describe
as the ‘seventh most important battle in history’. The Bolshevik
forces were decimated, and Europe saved. De Gaulle
fought with distinction and was awarded the highest military
honour in the country, the Virtuti Militari.
Cross-monument Pl.
Piłsudskiego. Nine metres
high and made of white granite
June 6, 2009 saw the
unveiling of giant cross on pl.
Piłsudskiego. It was here that
Pope John Paul II returned to
Warsaw for the first time after
being made pope, and it was
also on this spot a candlelit vigil
was held when news first broke
of his death. The inscription
is taken from his sermon and
reads: ‘Let your spirit come down and renew the face of earth,
this earth’. Unveiled by Warsaw Mayor Hanna Gronkiewicz
Waltz and Archbishop Kazimierz Nycz, the towering monument
was designed by Jerzy Mierzwiaka, Marek Kuciński
and Natalia Wilczak.
Ignacy Paderewski G-4,
Park Ujazdowski. Born in
Kuryłówka in 1860 Paderewski
is fondly remembered as a politican,
patriot and musician. Having
entered the Warsaw Conservatorium
at the age of 12 he worked
as a piano tutor after graduation.
The death of his wife, just a year
after they married, spurred him
to commit his life to music and in
1887 he made his public debut
in Vienna. His talent was obvious
and his growing popularity saw
Warszawa13/Wikipedia him storm both Europe and the
States, not just as a pianist, but
a masterful composer as well. He was based in Paris during WWI
and it was during this time he became actively involved in politics,
becoming spokesman for the Polish National Committee. With
the end of the war he sought a return to his homeland where,
having played a key role in the Wielkopolska Uprising (which saw
Poznań merged into the newly reformed Polish state), he was
elected Poland’s third ever prime minister. It was he who signed
for Poland’s part in the 1919 Treaty of Versailles, though his fall
from grace was just around the corner. Many thought he had
sold Poland short and in the face of growing public discontent he
resigned from office in December 1919. A short stint as Poland’s
representative in the League of Nations followed before he opted
to resume his musical career. Aside from being a skilled musician,
the mop haired Paderewski was also a popular public speaker,
known for his devastating wit. One anecdote recalls him being
introduced to a polo player with the words: ‘You are both leaders
in your spheres, though the spheres are very different’. Not one to
miss a beat Paderewski deadpanned ‘Not so very different, you
are a dear soul who plays polo, and I am a poor Pole who plays
solo’. During WWII he became an eminent figure in the London
based exiled Polish Parliament, though died in 1941 with the
country of his birth still under occupation.
Jan Kiliński Monument (Pomnik Jana Kilińskiego)
B-2, ul. Podwale. A huge monument honouring Jan Kiliński,
a Warsaw cobbler who became the unlikely hero of the 1794
Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice, Kiliński and
his troop of peasants captured the Russian Ambassador’s Warsaw
residence; an action that ultimately led to his imprisonment
in St. Petersburg. Said to embody the Polish virtues of bravery
and patriotism, his statue was erected in 1936 and originally
located on pl. Krasińskich. In reprisal for an attack on the Copernicus
Monument, Nazi troops hid Kiliński inside the vaults
of the National Museum. Within days, boy scouts had daubed
the museum with the graffiti ‘People of Warsaw! I am here, Jan
Kiliński.’ After the war the cobbler was returned to his rightful
place, before being finally relocated to ul. Podwale in 1959.
Józef Piłsudski Monument
(Pomnik Józefa
Piłsudskiego) F-2, Pl.
Piłsudskiego. Casting a steely
gaze over the square named in
his honour is a gloomy looking
Field Marshal Piłsudski, a man
many Poles hold responsible
for winning the country its independence
in 1918. Regarded
as a political and military hero
this man did more than most to
free Poland from the shackles
of Russian control; his early
years saw him imprisoned in Siberia after being wrongfully
convicted of plotting to assassinate the Tsar, though his
finest hour undoubtedly came in 1920 when he beat off
the Bolshevik hordes at the gates of Warsaw, inadvertently
saving a battered post-war Europe from being flooded by the
rampant Soviets. Unveiled in 1995 this particular monumen
is the work of Tadeusz Łodziany, and Piłsudski fans can view
another such monument to the man on ul. Belweder.
King Sigismund’s Column
(Kolumna Króla
Zygmunta) B-2, Pl. Zamkowy.
Built in honour of the
man who made Warsaw
the capital of Poland, the
column was erected back
in 1664 and stands twenty
two metres high. During the
war the column collapsed
under bombardment and
the original now lies close
to the Royal Castle (and is
considered lucky to touch).
The figure of Sigismund
survived and the new column was proudly re-erected in 1949.
Rosa Luxemburg
While the name sounds like that of a soap opera character
or possibly a romance novel heroine, Poland’s Rosa
Luxemburg was not a fictional figure – though her story as
a noted revolutionary socialist is just as dramatic. Born in
the southern city of Zamość (which was then controlled
by Russia) in 1871, Luxemburg was the fifth child born to a
Polish Jewish family that eventually moved to the capital of
Warsaw. There Luxemburg attended school and got her first
taste of political activity by becoming involved in the left-wing
Proletariat party, a short-lived socialist political party that
was essentially dissolved after most of its members were
executed or imprisoned around 1886. Luxemburg fled to
Switzerland in 1889 to escape persecution for her beliefs and
enrolled in Zurich University, where she met Leo Jogiches – a
fellow student and the man who would be her romantic and
political partner for the rest of her life.
Together the duo founded the Social Democratic Party of
the Kingdom of Poland and created a newspaper, Sprawa
Robotnicza (The Worker’s Cause) to oppose the policies
of the Polish Socialist Party. Luxemburg maintained the
position that an independent Poland would only come about
through socialist revolution, a position she held from across
the border in Germany (by 1898 Luxemburg had married
Gustav Lubeck in order to gain German citizenship and
settled in Berlin). In Germany Luxemburg was an active
participant in the Social Democratic Party of Germany (SPD)
and accurately foresaw the upcoming war, condemning
Germany’s militarization and writing analyses about European
socio-economic issues as well as speaking publicly
to workers about solidarity in the event of war.
Despite Luxemburg’s efforts to unite workers into a strike
against war, when the Balkans erupted in 1914 there was
no such strike, and the SPD itself voted to support financing
the war and refraining from strikes throughout its duration.
Not one to take things lying down, Luxemburg promptly
organised anti-war demonstrations and earned herself
a year in prison for “inciting to disobedience against the
authorities’ law and order.” Shortly thereafter Luxemburg
and likeminded friends, including Karl Liebknecht, founded
the Spartacus League which generated anti-war leaflets
and continued to encourage workers to strike against the
war. Those efforts landed Luxemburg back in prison once
again, this time for a 2.5 year stretch beginning in 1916.
Upon her release in November 1918 Luxemburg and
Liebknecht immediately regrouped the Spartacus League
and created the Red Flag newspaper to continue pressing
their ideas – which now included amnesty for political
prisoners and an end to capital punishment. The following
month saw the duo found the Communist Party of Germany
amidst the country’s post-war revolution, though
the revolution’s second wave would prove deadly for both
Luxemburg and Liebknecht. While Luxemburg herself opposed
the revolution’s violent grab at power, the Red Flag
backed the rebels and both Luxemburg and Liebknecht
were seized, questioned and summarily executed as a
result. Luxemburg’s corpse was thrown into the Landwehr
Canal, where it went undiscovered for four months.
Despite her untimely death Luxemburg left a vast legacy
of ideas and writings, with the term “Luxemburgism” even
used to describe a specific revolutionary theory within
Marxism that is based on her work. And while there are
currently no monuments or memorials to the revolutionary
in Poland, Berlin sports a U-Bahn station named in
her honour (Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz) and a memorial in
the city’s Tiergarten marking the spot where her body
was tossed in the canal.
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80 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE 81
Kościuszko Monument
Tadeusz Kościuszko Monument A/B-3, Pl. Za
Żelazną Bramą. History produces few men like Tadeusz
Kościuszko (1746-1817). Kościuszko’s highest ideal was
freedom, and he used his own to try and secure it for all
those less fortunate. In one country - Poland - he failed and
is remembered as the greatest hero who ever walked the
land. In another country - America - he succeeded, and yet
has been almost completely forgotten. A monument to the
man was unveiled in November 2010 in the presence of
the Polish President and the US Ambassador. The monument
is an exact copy of one in Washington by sculptor
Antoni Popiel given to Americans on behalf of the Polish
nation. At its unveiling outside of the White House in 1910
the promise was made to erect a copy in Poland if ever
the country regained its independence.
The man himself was educated in Warsaw and Paris during
which time Poland was partitioned for the first time in
1772. Kościuszko found himself attracted to the American
fight for independence and arrived in Philadelphia aged 30.
Upon arrival he read the Declaration of Independence and
found himself so inspired and in concert with its ideology
that he determined to meet the man who wrote it, Thomas
Jefferson. The two men later began a lifelong friendship
which became so binding that Kościuszko made Jefferson
the executor of his will. Jefferson was to call Kościuszko
“the purest son of liberty among you all that I have ever
known, and of that liberty which is to go to all, not to the
few or the rich alone.”
It was as a colonel in the engineering corps that Kościuszko
distinguished himself and it was his choice of Bemis Heights
as the place to engage the British that was to become the
decisive turning point of the northern campaign - the Battle
of Saratoga in October 1777. The victory at Saratoga won
the northern campaign and the alliance of the French as
Louis XVI officially recognised America as an independent
country. Kosciuszko was then charged with fortifying
West Point, New York, where he built an impenetrable
fortress that would later become America’s premier military
academy. Rewarded with citizenship, the rank of Brigadier
General and land near Columbus, Ohio, at the end of
hostilities, Kościuszko found himself instead drawn back
to Poland whose aggressive neighbours continued to
threaten its sovereignty.
Having first freed the serfs on his own estate back in
Poland, Kościuszko once again returned to the military.
On May 3, 1791 the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth
created the first constitution in modern Europe (second
in the world after America), which enacted widespread
reforms and four days later the Russian army crossed
the border triggering the Polish-Russian War of 1792.
Kościuszko again distinguished himself in battle and
became regarded as Poland’s leading military strategist
having never been defeated. However the neighbouring
powers further reduced the power and size of Poland
through the Second Partition of Poland (January 21,
1793) leaving Kościuszko to resolve that the Poles were
going to have to drive their oppressors out and to regain
their independence.
What followed came to be known as the Kościuszko Uprising.
Kościuszko, using his experience of the American
war of Independence, led his ill-equipped peasant army
to victory over the Russian army at Racławice. The
ultimate defeat of Poland resulted in the Third Partition
of Poland (October 24th, 1795) and Poland disappeared
from the map of Europe for the next 123 years. Read
more about the man in our feature online.
Nicolaus Copernicus
Monument (Pomnik
Mikołaja Kopernika) C-3,
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście.
The founder of modern astronomy.
A sheltered academic,
he made his observations a
century before the invention
of the telescope and without
help or guidance. His book De
Revolutionibus (1543) posited
that the earth rotated on its axis
once a day, travelled around the
sun once a year, and that man’s
place in the cosmos was peripheral. This may seem obvious
today, but it was an utterly radical idea at the time.
Although astronomers who propagated his ideas were burnt at
the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolutionibus
on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there was no turning
back progress. The modern cosmological view - that our
galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is this man’s legacy.
The statue itself was built in 1830 and has seen its fair
share of adventure. During WWII the Nazi’s placed a bronze
plaque insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp - a
German. In 1942, a boy scout called Alek Dawidowski ducked
the guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the
Nazis removed the statue, hid it in Silesia and dynamited a
few other surrounding monuments for good measure. The
statue was recovered in the years following the war, while
Dawidowski has entered Polish folklore as a result of his
bravery. The plaque at the centre of the storm is currently
held in Warsaw’s History Museum.
Nike B-2, near Pl. Zamkowy (Trasa W-Z scarp). Just before
hitting the WZ tunnel that rumbles below the old town visitors
can’t fail but see a giant cast iron statue of Nike: as in the Greek
Goddess of Victory, not the shoe. Standing with sword raised
aloft this noble structure is actually officially named ‘Monument
to the Heroes of Warsaw 1939-1945’, and remembers the
thousands of locals who fought against - and died under - Nazi
rule. The statue made its debut in 1964, originally standing on
pl. Teatralny. This was before there was any official memorial
to the Warsaw Uprising, and as such Nike became the favoured
assembly point for Polish veterans, as well as student agitators
in later years. In 1999 Pl. Teatralny underwent a well-deserved
facelift and the fearsome Nike found herself forklifted over to
her current spot where she stands with a watchful eye over the
cars and buses that gasp to-and-fro.
Syrena. The mermaid is the
symbol of Warsaw, and as
such you’ll find her likeness on
everything from buses to beer
cans. The legend dates to the
time of Prince Kazimierz, who
allegedly got lost while on a
hunting expedition in the area
that is now Warsaw. Behold, a
mermaid transpired from the
marshland, and guided the
hapless prince to safety by
firing burning arrows. Firmly
established as an icon of Warsaw you’ll find three mermaid
statues in Warsaw, specifically on (C-1), Old Town Square,
(D-2), Świętokrzyski Bridge and on (C-2/3), ul. Karowa. The
original mermaid - or syrena in local parlance - stands in
the Historical Museum, and was crafted from bronze by the
expert hand of Ludwika Nitschowa. Modelling for her was
actress Krystyna Krahelska, who was mortally injured on
the first day of the Uprising while working as a field nurse.
Tomb of the Unknown
Soldier (Grób Nieznanego
Żołnierza) B-3, Pl.
Piłsudskiego. The only surviving
part of the destroyed Saxon
Palace. The palace was constructed
during the 17th century
though the tomb was not added
to the complex until 1925. Eerily,
the tomb was the only part of
the structure to survive being
dynamited by the Nazis. The
ashes of unknown soldiers from WWII have been fittingly added.
To those deported and murdered in the East (Pomnik
Poległym i Pomordowanym na Wschodzie)
E-1, intersection of Bonifraterska, Andersa and Muranowska.
Dating from 1995, and designed by Maksymilian
Biskupski, this monument remembers the victims of Soviet
aggression and all those deported to the wastes of Siberia.
Museums
Warsaw now has an ever more impressive selection of
museums dotted around and even older ones are getting
facelifts to bring the visitor experience into the 21st century.
There are still instances of poor or no English language explanations
but these are becoming less common. Without
doubt the big three places on your list should be the Uprising
Museum which charts the defining period in the history of
modern Warsaw; the Copernicus Science Centre which is the
city’s most interactive and visitor friendly museum and the
Chopin Museum which is both interesting and Warsaw’s best
example of a modern museum experience. Most museums
listed present a cycle of temporary exhibitions, details of
which can be found in our culture and events section.
Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature (Muzeum
Literatury im. Adama Mickiewicza) B-1, Rynek
Starego Miasta 20, tel. (+48) 22 831 76 91, www.
muzeumliteratury.pl. Find out about the smart Alec who
inspired Romanticism in Poland. As well as aving a number
of manuscripts and historical artefacts connected with
Mickiewicz, the museum also has exhibits connected with
other leading Polish writers. If Polish writers are your bag be
sure to check out the three other related sites that are part
of the city’s Museum of Literature and celebrate historic
authors: the Władysław Broniewski Museum of Literature
at ul. J. Dąbrowskiego 51 (F-6), the Andrzej Struga Museum
of Literature at Al. Niepodległości 210/10 (F-4) and the
Maria Dąbrowska Museum of Literature at ul. Polna 40/31
(F-4). Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 18:00, Sun
11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat and every last Sun of the month.
Admission 6/5zł, Sun free for permanent exhibit only. Y
Gallery of Paintings, Sculpture and the Decorative
Arts (Galeria Malarstwa, Rzeźby i Sztuki
Zdobniczej) B-2, Pl. Zamkowy 4 (Royal Castle), tel.
(+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek-krolewski.pl. The east
wing of the Royal Castle’s main floor is now home to a permanent
exhibition of various works of art that had formerly
been spread throughout the property, including two works
by Rembrandt: The Girl in a Picture Frame and The Scholar
at the Lectern. Both paintings were part of a major donation
of 37 works of art given by Countess Karolina Lanckoronska,
a Polish resistance fighter and concentration camp survivor
who, upon Poland’s return to independence in 1989, bequeathed
her family’s art collection to the nation. The Castle
has done an impressive job of staging the artworks, with
muted walls and focused lighting keeping all the attention
Stanislaw Poniatowski
The wonderfully named
Stanisław II August Poniatowski
(born Count
Stanisław Antoni Poniatowski)
was the last
King and Grand Duke
of the Polish-Lithuanian
Commonwealth
(1764-95). His official
title was, memorably,
Stanisław August, by
the grace of God and
the will of the people
King of Poland, Grand
Duke of Lithuania and
Duke of Ruthenia,
Prussia, Masovia, Samogitia, Kiev, Volhynia,
Podolia, Podlasie, Livonia, Smolensk, Severia
and Chernihiv.
Born in Wolcyn (which today is in Belarus) in 1732,
Poniatowski first rose to prominence as an orator in the
nascent Polish parliament, the Sejm. Appointed ambassador
of Saxony to the court of Catherine the Great in
St. Petersburg in 1755, the tall, dashing Poniatowski
quickly became a regular lover of the insatiable Russian
Empress. When the Polish King August II died in 1763, it
was with Russian support that Poniatowski was elected
king, at the age of 32.
Opposed from the start by large numbers of the Polish
nobility, on first appearances Poniatowski’s three
decades on the throne do not look all that impressive.
He was powerless to prevent the first partition of the
Commonwealth in 1772 and relied heavily for much of
his reign on Russian patronage.
Yet he is remembered most for his championing of the
1791 Polish-Lithuanian Constitution: Europe’s first and
the world’s second (the United States had enacted the
first, in 1788) codified constitution. It greatly reduced the
power of the nobility, and introduced the idea of equality
amongst all citizens of the Commonwealth: noblemen,
townsfolk and peasants. Alas, the Commonwealth was
about to crumble, and the constitution came far too
late to save it.
Appalled, the Polish nobility, under the flag of the
Targowica Federation and allied with Russian nobles
keen to prevent similar ideas of equality infiltrating
into Russia, launched a full scale war (known, somewhat
incorrectly, as the Polish-Russian War of 1791-2)
on Poniatowski. Betrayed by Prussia (which had until
then been a keen ally), Poniatowski was defeated in
1792 and the constitution expunged from the statue
book. The status quo ante-bellum was restored, and
Poniatowski managed to cling on as King until 1795
when the final partition of the Commonwealth forced
him to abdicate. He fled to St. Petersburg, where
he lived at the grace of Catherine until he died in
1798. He was first buried at the Catholic Church of
St. Catherine in St. Petersburg, his remains being
transferred to a church at Wołczyn in 1938. In 1995,
in belated recognition of his role in creating the 1791
constitution, he was formally reburied at St. John’s
Cathedral in Warsaw.
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82 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE 83
The Citadel
The Citadel (Cytadela) F-1, ul. Skazańców 25
(entrance from ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie), tel. (+48)
22 839 12 68, www.muzeum-niepodleglosci.pl/
xpawilon. First off a tip. The entrance to the Citadel is on
Wybrzeże Gdyńskie and is not that easy to find. Once you
get there you discover a complex built in the wake of the
1830 November Insurrection, and commissioned by Tsar
Nicholas I to serve as a fortress for the occupying Russian
garrison - and as a political prison and execution ground.
Housing as many as 16,000 troops, the main purpose of
the citadel was to deter and quash any patriotic movement
within the city. Of the 40,000 prisoners who have passed
through its gates, familiar names include national hero Józef
Piłsudski, communist agitator ‘Red’ Rosa Luxembourg and
Feliks Dzierżyński - the monster who would progress to become
head of the Russian secret police. As well as being a
supreme example of 19th century fortress architecture, the
36 hectare site has several points of interest. The labyrinth
of tunnels and prison cells have been well preserved and
contain numerous exhibits, including paintings, prison relics
and firearms. Outside find a Nazi bunker dating from 1940,
a symbolic cemetery, and The Gate of Execution. It’s here
on the nearby southern hillsides of the Citadel that Polish
heroes like Traugutt were executed in front of a crowd
of 30,000 in 1864. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon,
Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
6/4zł, Thu free.
Gestapo HQ
Gestapo HQ (Mauzoleum Walki i Męczeństwa)
G-4, Al. Szucha 25, tel. (+48) 22 629 49 19, www.
muzeumniepodleglosci.art.pl. Every bit as disturbing
as Pawiak is the former Gestapo HQ, found on Al. Szucha
25. Built between 1927 and 1930, the building’s original
purpose was to serve as a centre for religious beliefs.
In 1939 it came under control of the Nazi regime, and
for the next five years became one of the most feared
addresses in Poland operating, among other capacities,
as a brutal interrogation centre. The imposing building,
currently housing the Ministry of Education, was left
untouched by the carnage of war and now also holds a
small but sobering museum within its bowels. Cells, where
prisoners were held prior to interrogation, have been left
largely as they were. Known as ‘trams,’ Poles would be
sat on wooden benches facing the wall as they awaited
their fate. Forbidden to eat or sleep, they were compelled
to sit motionless in darkness, sometimes for days on end.
Failure to do so would lead to almost certain death. The
bullet marks scarring the walls tell their own harrowing
story. Although the torture cells have long since been
blocked off, the English language tape that the curator
plays paints a vivid and repulsive picture. Prisoners were
subjected to savage beatings, attacked with dogs and
electrocuted. Those who didn’t co-operate would, in some
cases, be forced to watch their own families being tortured.
The office where prisoners would have been ‘checked in’
also remains, complete with a faded portrait of Hitler and
battered issues of Wehrmacht magazine lying around.
Manacles, bullwhips and other sinister instruments can
also be seen stacked on the bookshelf. QOpen 10:00 -
16:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 6/4zł, Thu free,
ticket also admits you to Pawiak Prison (ul. Dzielna 24/26).
on the various portraits of 16th and 17th century royalty like
Marie Antoinette and still life paintings of flower-filled bounties.
There’s also a room devoted to porcelain, tapestries
and glassware from the era. The Castle’s free admission on
Sundays have seen the new gallery overrun with visitors, so
serious art lovers will want to pay for the chance to wander
at a less harried pace. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00
- 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.
Note that the gallery is closed on December 24, 25, 30, 31
and January 1 and 6. Admission 20/15zł, family ticket 10zł
per person. Sun free.
Historical Museum of Warsaw (Muzeum Historyczne
Miasta Warszawy) B-1, Rynek Starego Miasta
28-42, tel. (+48) 22 635 16 25, www.mhw.pl. One of our
favourite museums, The Historical Museum of Warsaw has
been offline for several issues now but is easing into a return
after months of renovations. What can you see so far? Just
the main floor, which houses an excellent permanent exhibition
about the history of Warsaw through the 17th century
and plenty of archaeological materials to keep Indiana Jones
enthused for hours. A temporary exhibition is also open and
is dedicated to WWII hero Janusz Korczak. One aspect not
to be missed is the film “Warsaw Will Remember” in the
museum’s cinema. The film addresses the war years from
1939-1945 and the rebuilding of the city. The film is shown
Tue at 11:00 and 12:00, Wed-Fri at 10:00 and 12:00, and
Sat and Sun at 12:00 and 14:00 and lasts 20 minutes (in
French, Italian German and Spanish by request). Tickets are
10/5zł, and the entrance for the film is from Rynek Starego
Miasta 40. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Tue 11:00 - 18:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5zł.
Museum of Independence (Muzeum
Niepodległości) B-2, Al. Solidarności 62, tel. (+48)
22 826 90 91, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.art.pl.
Rather ironically, the museum that charts Poland’s struggle
for freedom was home to the Lenin Museum during communist
rule. Celebrating Polish patriotism, the museum covers all
the key dates of Polish history, including the 1794 Kościuszko
Uprising, the 19th century insurrections, Piłsudski’s return
to Poland, WWII and the rise of Solidarity (though this last
exhibit is currently unavailable). Among the 48,000 exhibits
are objects recovered from WWII concentration camps,
and some wonderful displays of Socialist Realist artwork.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
6/4zł. Thu free. Y
Museum of John Paul II Collection (Muzeum
Kolekcji im. Jana Pawła II) A-2, Pl. Bankowy 1, tel.
(+48) 22 620 27 25, www.muzeummalarstwa.pl. This
is exactly the kind of overlooked museum that houses gems
tourists will consider themselves lucky to stumble upon. In
1986 Janina and Zbigniew Carroll-Porczynski gifted the country
with 400 paintings and sculptures acquired through years
of dabbling in Western European art. The Carroll-Porczynskis
themselves are an interesting duo - she was sent to Sibera
in 1940, then matriculated to Rhodesia and England where
she obtained several degrees while he was part of the Home
Army and sent to Powiak Prison, Auschwitz and Buchenwald
before going to England and getting a PhD. Their collection
is now housed in the historical Bank of Poland building and
includes a unicorn sculpture by Salvador Dali, a painting of
Renoir’s son Pierre, an idyllic farm scene by Van Gogh, the
head of John the Baptist by Rodin…the mind boggles at the
list of noted artists housed here. The Bank’s soaring rotunda
is home to over 80 self-portraits, and the first floor houses
works of a more religious nature. One of the most stunning is
Wojciech Gerson’s Baptism of Lithuania, a massive painting
that represents Lithuania’s baptism into Christianity. A lack
of surly museum maids and a well-marked route make the
JPII museum even more enjoyable. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 13/8zł. Y
Museum of Polish People’s Movement (Muzeum
Historii Polskiego Ruchu Ludowego) Al. Wilanowska
204 (Mokotów), tel. (+48) 22 843 38 76, www.
mhprl.pl. Set in a neo-Renaissance villa designed by
Italian-born Mary Lanci the Museum of the Polish People’s
Movement is an absolute must for museum diehards - just try
to find any other English-speaker whose been here (though
recently the museum has added some English brochures to
help non-Polish visitors). As the title suggests, everything
here is focused on Polish people/peasants, with the oldest
exhibit being a 17th century manuscript approved by King
Jan III Sobieski granting serfs a tax reduction. Most of these
scrolls, documents and papers will be lost on the foreign
visitor; making more sense are the printed materials, which
include election posters from the interwar years, as well as
decrees, ration cards and purchase vouchers supplied by the
occupying Nazis during WWII. Times under communism are
particularly well represented, and visitors will see a number
of stirring Soviet chic posters encouraging hard work and
high production. Very Socialist Paradise indeed.
Patriotism plays a large part in understanding this oddity,
and art fans will be pleased to find a series of paintings
depicting peasants in full battle, including of course Tadeusz
Kościuszko doing his bit against the Russkies. Stamps,
flags, medals and caricatures, they’re all here, as well as a
great little war-themed section which presents bayonets,
armbands worn by peasant fighters during WWII, first aid
kits and a typewriter and printing contraption used in the
creation of subversive press. Q Open 08:30 - 15:30, Sat,
Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 2/1zł. Thu free. Y
Museum of Priest Jerzy Popiełuszko (Muzeum
Błogosławionego Ks. Jerzego Popiełuszki) ul.
Kardynała Stanisława Hozjusza 2 (Żoliborz), tel. (+48)
22 561 00 56, www.popieluszko.net.pl. You’d probably
think a museum honouring a priest doesn’t sound like much
fun, and indeed this place really isn’t. However, it is a very decent
detour if you happen to be in the Żoliborz area, and that’s
because Father Jerzy was no ordinary priest. Popiełuszko
came to national attention in the early1980s for his fierce
anti-communist rhetoric, and with close ties to Radio Free
Europe and Solidarity it wasn’t long till he ran afoul of the
internal security services. In 1984, with Poland in political
chaos, they decided to get rid of him altogether. A car accident
was set up for this purpose, though Popiełuszko somehow
survived unscathed. Six days later he was abducted, beaten
and murdered, his corpse dumped in a reservoir. His funeral
drew a crowd of 250,000 mourners and made headlines the
world over. Today the basement of his former parish church
has been turned into a museum to remember not just his life,
but the whole struggle for post-war freedom. Newssheets
printed by the underground, banners from the Solidarity
strikes and pictures of the funeral are among the many items
on display, as are the clothes he was wearing when he was
kidnapped. Particularly poignant is a curved wall, it’s bricks
inscribed with the names of martyrs ‘dealt with’ by security
services between 1981 and 1989. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free.
Donations welcome.
Museum of Sports and Tourism (Muzeum Sportu
i Turystyki) ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4 (Żoliborz), tel.
(+48) 22 560 37 80, www.muzeumsportu.waw.pl. Not
long back museums in Poland were largely dusty affairs with
stupid hours and hawk-like curators ensuring fingers and
Presidential Palace
Presidential Palace C-2, ul. Krakowskie
Przedmieście 46/48. If pre-war Warsaw was considered
the Paris of the East then Krakowskie Przedmieśćie would
have been its Champs Elysees, its importance recognized
by the number of palaces, institutions, monuments and
churches that line it. Of those none are more important than
the Presidential Palace at number 46/48, that mysterious
fenced-off building guarded by stone lions and stern looking
soldiers. Construction on it started in 1643 at the behest of
Stanisław Koniecpolski, though was only completed after
his death. It passed into the hands of various aristocratic
families and in the 18th century became famed for its banquets
- the most extravagant being held to commemorate
the coronation of Stanisław II August Poniatowski in 1789;
over two million złoty was spent entertaining the 4,000
guests. Poniatowski was to prove one of the nation’s finest
monarchs and the Constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on
these very grounds, is recognized as Europe’s first - and
only the second in the world. A statue of Poniatowski’s
brother, himself a military hero, was added to in 1965. Of its
residents none were more eccentric than General Zajączek,
a one legged Duke who was carried around in his armchair
by a team of simpering servants. His wife, an ageless looking
maiden, attributed her eternal youth to a strict diet that
banned any hot meals, and a rigorous set of guidelines that
included having pots of ice placed under her bed and freezing
cold baths. After 1818 it became the seat of the Viceroy of
the Polish Kingdom, and its halls entertained many a visiting
Tsar. In 1852 calamity struck and the palace was burned to
the ground. Reconstructed by Alfons Kropiwnicki the rebuilt
structure served as a home to the Agricultural Society, and
in 1879 Jan Matejko’s epic painting The Battle of Grunwald
was put on display to an appreciative Warsaw public. Extensively
remodelled throughout the course of history one of its
biggest revamps came at the beginning of the 20th century
when one wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel
Bristol. When Poland regained its independence in 1918 it
was commandeered to serve as home of the Prime Minister
and his Council of Ministers. When Herman Goering visited
in 1937 he spent so much time pottering around admiring
the architectural details he was late for his appointment with
the Polish Foreign Minister. Amazingly it survived both the
1939 Siege of Warsaw and the Warsaw Uprising five years
later, though that did little to stop the authorities employing
Antoni Brusche and Antoni Jawornicki to give it a further
facelift. It saw more momentous events in 1955, this time
when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO
- was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as
the official home of the Polish president, which is exactly
why you’ll find streams of limos heading in and out, and
square jawed soldiers pointing their weapons at anyone who
strays too close. Interestingly enough, however, is the fact
that current president Bronisław Komorowski does not live
there; instead he has chosen to reside at Belweder Palace
next to Łazienki Park.
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December 2012 - January 2013

84 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE 85
Palmiry
Palmiry - The National Memorial Museum
(Muzeum - Miejsce Pamięci Palmiry) Palmiry,
tel. (+48) 22 720 81 14, www.palmiry.mhw.pl. This
brand new and highly recommended museum in the
forest outside Warsaw significantly ups the standard
for how a small exhibit can pack a huge punch. A little
history: during World War II the forests of Palmiry and
Kampinos became a refuge for those fleeing the destruction
in Warsaw (many Home Army soldiers regrouped
in the woods). It also became the site for 21 separate
mass executions performed by German soldiers against
1,700 Poles and Jews, many of whom were academic and
cultural figures. Inside this well-organized modern block
visitors will see how the Poles used the forest for training
and hiding weapons, and how the Germans turned
their refuge into a killing field. Information boards clearly
explain what happened in the forest (these are some of
the best English translations we’ve seen) and displays
include exhumed items like documents and photos, even
sections of trees with ammunition still buried in their
bark. A video re-enacts how German soldiers systematically
marched civilians to their deaths, and the tour
ends with an endless audio loop that reads the names
of the victims. Outside visitors will see a giant cemetery
of marked and unmarked crosses (the museum also
describes the exhumation process that took place in
the forest) dedicated to the victims. While the museum
is mainly dedicated to what happened in the forests
during World War II it also makes note of the fact that
Poles have taken to these woods during the Kosciuszko
Uprising in 1794, the November Uprising in 1831 and the
January Uprising in 1863. Getting to the museum from
Warsaw involves a subway trip that connects to a slightly
stomach-churning 45-minute bus ride on the 800 bus,
which unfortunately only runs during holidays. During the
week catch the PKS bus from Warszawa Zachodnia Bus
Station Mon-Sat at 11:00 (direction: Mława), and Sun at
12:15 (direction: Żuromin). QOpen 10:00 - 15:00. Closed
Mon. Admission free. Guided tours in English are 100zl,
please book in advance.
noses were kept well away from the glass. Well here’s the
new face of sightseeing, a spanking new glass building that
could well have been sent down from space. Cynics might
say a seven floor Olympic Centre is largely wasted on the
Poles, a nation which hasn’t exactly dominated the planet
in the field of sport. This place is here to prove the naysayers
wrong, with over 47,000 exhibits testifying to Poland’s
contribution to recreation.
The exhibition starts off with a passing glance at Ancient
Greece, with Greco busts and murals celebrating the early
pioneers of games, before moving off in a more patriotic
direction and leaning towards the more Polski side of things.
Included are old penny farthing bicycles as well as trophies
and memorabilia from the Warsaw Rowing Association, apparently
the oldest sports organization in town.
Split into various zones (inter-war years, 70s glory years,
Salt Lake City etc), this is more than just a thorough look at
Polish sport, it’s the final word. Film reels and sound effects
complement often hilarious pictures (mustachioed supermen
from bygone times triumphantly lifting dumbbells). However
this is no circus sideshow, and it soon becomes clear that
the Poles have a proud and distinguished history across
all fields, something apparent in the Olympic Hall of Fame
which features scores of medals. Heroes such as ex Man City
legend Kazimierz Deyna and ski champ Adam Małysz are all
celebrated, and the vast collection even has room for a kayak
once used by Pope John Paul II to row around the Mazurian
Lakes. QOpen 09:15 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
10/6zł. Sat free.
National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) C-4, Al.
Jerozolimskie 3, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, www.mnw.
art.pl. Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre interwar
building, Warsaw’s National Museum has thankfully
just reopened after a long renovation that has seen many
changes including the renovation of the museum’s main
courtyard, a major rearrangement of the permanent galleries
and an impressive upcoming schedule of temporary
exhibits. Considering the new overhaul this museum is a
must for anyone visiting the city. Dating from 1862 and
operating under its current name since 1916, there’s a
Tourist information
Tourist Information (Stołeczne Biuro Turystyki)
ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 194
31, www.warsawtour.pl. Located in the arrivals hall of
the new part of the airport, the point is small but has all
the necessary guides and maps you might need including
In Your Pockets. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
Tourist Information (Stołeczne Biuro Turystyki)
B-4, Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance
from ul. Emilii Plater), tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www.
warsawtour.pl. This central tourist information office
is inside the Palace of Culture (if you exit central station
on the Złote Tarasy shopping complex side and cross
over the road you’ll see it). Inside you can choose from
a series of guides as well as buy some souvenir books
and gifts. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
Tourist Information (Stołeczne Biuro Turystyki)
B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 19/21/21a,
tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www.warsawtour.pl. Find
this point on the Market Square of Old Town where you
can pick up maps, guides, book tours and buy gifts and
souvenirs. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
huge array of permanent exhibitions and antiquities. Visitors
will find a wealth of delightful 15th-century Dutch and
Flemish paintings in the Gallery of Old European Paintings
and several galleries of Polish art from the 16th century
onwards, including some of the best work by the country’s
leading names in art - Chełmoński and Matejko to name a
few. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.
Ticket prices: permanent exhibitions 15/10zł, entire museum
20/15zł. Family ticket: 40zł permanent exhibits, 50zł entire
museum. Tue free for permanent exhibition. Last tickets sold
45 minutes before closing. Y
Polish Army Museum (Muzeum Wojska Polskiego)
C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. (+48) 22 629
52 71, www.muzeumwp.pl. The chronological history of
the Polish army is presented in a series of gloomy rooms.
Suits of armour, crossbows, muskets, medals and paintings
pack this museum, though the scarcity of English-language
explanations mean you’ll need to hire an English-speaking
guide to get the most out of the place. The room at the end
is dedicated to Poland’s role in WWII, with specific emphasis
on the Warsaw Uprising. Curiously, the best part of the
museum is actually free of charge: the outdoor collection of
20th century weaponry includes an array of tanks, missiles,
aircraft and rocket launchers. Note that visitors can see the
Transport Aircraft AN26 (or similar machines) for a 2zł fee.
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/5zł,
Sun free. Tours with audioguide 17/10zł.
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/
CSW) (Centrum Sztuki Współczesnej Zamek
Ujazdowski) G-4, ul. Jazdów 2, tel. (+48) 22 628
64 08, www.csw.art.pl. Completed in a baroque style in
1730, Ujazdowski was gutted by fire during WWII. Though
the original walls and foundations remained structurally
sound the communist authorities decided to tear down the
shell of the building with the intention of building a military
theatre on the site. Common sense prevailed and the 1970s
saw Ujazdowski rebuilt following its original style. Used as
a military hospital in the years leading up to the war, it now
has three large exhibition halls dedicated to showcasing the
very best of contemporary art; find a wild mix of the good,
the bad and the ugly, featuring the work of Poland’s leading
contemporary artists. Worthy and undoubtedly necessary,
the gallery also houses a very good bookshop and a café.
QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Last
entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6zł,
Thu free.
Places of interest
Invisible Exhibition (Niewidzialna Wystawa) A-4,
Al. Jerozolimskie 123a, tel. (+48) 504 32 44 44, www.
niewidzialna.pl. Would you pay good money for an exhibition
you can’t see? That’s the idea behind Niedwidzialna
Wystawa (“The Invisible Exhibition”), which takes visitors
into the world of the sightless. The roughly hour-long tours
(which we recommend you book in advance to avoid waiting)
are helmed by guides who know of what they speak: all are
partially or completely blind themselves. Tours begin with
several stations that help get you acclimated to the challenges
blind people face daily. You’ll get to tap on a Braille
typewriter, test out gadgets that help the sightless do tasks
in the kitchen, and try to solve simple puzzles while wearing
a blindfold. Once you’re sufficiently awed by your inability to
do even minor tasks the guide leads the group into the main
portion of the exhibition: a pitch-black series of rooms that
force you to rely on your other senses to get by (we’re not
kidding about the darkness level; be prepared). You’ll visit an
Royal Castle
Royal Castle (Zamek Królewski) B-2, Pl.
Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamekkrolewski.pl.
More a palace than a castle, this building is
the pride of Warsaw, reconstructed from a pile of rubble
at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the
furniture was donated by now deceased commie buddies
such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money for
rebuilding came from generous donations from exiled Poles.
Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has been the
residence of Polish kings, then of the president and then the
seat of parliament. The prescribed tour will take you through
the Kings’ apartments and chambers, heavily adorned
with paintings of famous Polish moments. Maps on the
wall reflect Poland’s greatest days, when it stretched from
the Baltic to the Black Sea. The apartments of Józef Poniatowski
have recently been opened to the public, though
unfortunately none of the accompany descriptions are in
English. The rooms are still a worthwhile part of the tour,
if for no other reason than to see the Prince’s surprisingly
cerulean bedroom and grand collection of paintings. Some
of the halls are reputed to be intermittently haunted by a
‘white lady.’ According to legend her appearance signals
imminent disaster. The nearby chapel boasts an urn containing
the heart of Polish hero and freedom fighter Tadeusz
Koścuiszko. Next on the tour, the Houses of Parliament. Last
but not least, the opulent Great Assembly Hall has so much
gold stuck to the walls it’s hard to resist the temptation to
scratch some off - just a bit, they wouldn’t notice. Behave or
get accosted by vigilant wardens and enjoy the views across
the river to the Praga district instead. For those interested in
the Castle’s reconstruction the basement exhibition “From
Destruction to Reconstruction” details the building’s resurrection
after World War II rendered the place a pile of rubble.
Note that this exhibition is free, so those not willing to spring
for a ticket for the entire tour can still visit this section of the
Castle. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. The castle will
be closed December 24, 25, 30 and 31 and January 1 and
6. Also the apartments of Józef Poniatowski will be closed
for conservation purposes from January 7-18. Admission
22/15zł, family ticket 14zł per person. Sun free. Poniatowski
apartments 14/7zl, family ticket 6zl per person. Sun free.
Guides in English 110zł, audioguides 17/12zł. Y
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December 2012 - January 2013

86 WHAT TO SEE
Ronald Reagan Monument
Courtesy of U.S. Embassy
in Warsaw
Ronald Reagan Monument
(Pomnik Ronalda
Reagana) C-4,
Al. Ujazdowskie. A large
bronze statue of U.S. President
Ronald Reagan now
calls Warsaw home after
an unveiling in November
2011 that included former
Polish President and Solidarity
leader Lech Wałęsa.
The large 3.5-metre monument
portrays Reagan, who
was the 40th president of
the United States and held
office from 1981-1989,
when he stood at a podium
at Berlin’s Brandenburg gate and declared, “Mr. Gorbachev,
tear down this wall,” back in 1987.
So why are the Poles using their valuable bronze on the
Gipper? In Poland Reagan is considered one of the 20th
century’s most important leaders thanks to his longstanding
opposition to communism. During Reagan’s
Christmas address in 1981 he cited the persecution of
the Solidarity trade union by the country’s communist
government as evidence that the regime was waging
“war against its own people.” That holiday season
candles were put in the windows of the White House to
show Reagan’s support of the Solidarity movement and
the Polish people.
Reagan’s continued policy of vigorously promoting
democracy and condemning communism is credited
as hastening the dissolution of the Soviet Union, and
along with Pope John Paul II he was a strong supporter
of Wałęsa’s campaign for presidency in 1990. During the
unveiling ceremony Wałęsa noted his belief that without
Reagan Poland wouldn’t be a free nation today. The
statue, which was created by Polish sculptor Władysław
Dudek, can be found across the street from the United
States embassy.
art gallery, a bar and take a walk ‘outside’ while the guides
ask questions about what you’re encountering - you’ll be
listening for the swoosh of cars before crossing the street,
or feeling a sculpture to discern what kind of art it is. If you
bring along change the guide will even serve you a drink in
the completely dark bar. An eye-opening experience that will
have you thinking heavily about what you take for granted.
QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Last entrance
60 minutes before closing. Admission 21-25/16-22zł, family
ticket 57-66zł.
Saski Palace. One piece of lost Warsaw that is set to rise
again is the Saski Palace, formerly located in the grounds
of Saski Park (B-2). Originally the residence of the Morsztyn
family the building was purchased by King Augustus II and
substantially enlarged and used by both him and his successor,
Augustus III. Off-topic, but nevertheless worth airing,
amateur historians will delight in learning that Augustus II
sired 12 children by different women, while his successor
managed to match the number, only this time staying loyal
to his wife in the process.
Back on track, when Augustus III passed away (shagged out
most likely) the building fell into disuse before being rented
out for accommodation. Between 1806-1816 the Prussians
established Warsaw Lyceum on the premises, and conflicting
evidence suggests that Chopin either lived there for a time,
or that his father taught French in one of the outbuildings.
Extensively remodelled in 1842 the Palace finally assumed
its best known shape in 1925 when the Tomb of the Unknown
soldier was added to the series of colonnades used
to link the two wings together. Serving as the seat of the
Polish General Staff after WWI it was here that the German
Enigma Code was first cracked by local science boffins.
WWII signalled the end of the Palace and it was flattened by
retreating Nazi troops, with only the Tomb of the Unknown
Soldier surviving the blasts.
But the story continues. In a rare act of foresight the city of
Warsaw has decided to cover the 201 million złoty cost of
rebuilding Saski Palace. Budimex Dromex have been awarded
the tender to undertake the work and the façade, thanks to
blueprints made available by the Central Military Archive, will
look just like it did in 1939. It’s not known what will occupy
the space, with ideas ranging from a Museum of Polish
History to an institute dedicated to the thoughts of Pope
John Paul II. Completion was originally set for 2010, though
so far building work has not entirely gone to plan. Although
sappers failed to find any undetonated devices, builders
have since come across over 10,000 rare archaeological
finds including baroque sculptures, secret tunnels, ancient
wells, German helmets and wine glasses bearing August
III’s monogram. The one problem being that no provision
was made for discoveries of this scale, meaning that many
of the treasures recovered have since corroded after being
incorrectly stored. For the time being work appears to have
stopped completely, with even the fences taken down - when
it’ll resume is anyone’s guess, though we could be in for a
bit of a wait.
The Eastern Wall. Reeling from near total annihilation
the post-war years saw Warsaw emerge as Europe’s biggest
brickyard as it struggled to rebuild itself from the ashes.
Initially the buzzword for architects in the region was Socialist
Realism, a severe style following strict guidelines from a
Soviet masterplan. The death of Stalin in 1953 changed all
that and architects looked to the west for inspiration, a disastrous
move that saw all manner of brutalist monstrosities
rise from the ruins. The competition in Warsaw is fierce, but
probably nastiest of the lot is the development dubbed ‘the
Eastern Wall’ (Ściana Wschodnia), a collection of buildings
and tower block running from Rondo Dmowskiego (B-4) to
ul. Świętokrzyska (B-3). Architect Zbigniew Karpiński - the
guy who also designed the bunker-like US Embassy on ul.
Piękna - won the competition to rebuild the area and set
about remodelling the centre of Warsaw with the zealous
glee of a complete nutter. Construction kicked off in 1962
and was completed seven years later, the result being four
department stores, the Rotunda bank building, a blockish
office building behind it, a cinema, and even a nightclub.
Towering over it all were three residential blocks situated on
Świętokrzyska (85 metres), Zgoda (87 metres) and Chmielna
(81 metres). Originally hailed a work of genius the Eastern
Wall soon became a bit of a rusty elephant, crippled and
blackened with age and neglect. The collapse of communism
breathed new life into the complex - Poland’s first McDonald’s
was opened at the Świętokrzyska end of the complex,
while the office block behind the Rotunda temporarily held
the title for having the largest billboard in the world. More
recently steps have been taken to polish up the area with
shining glass frontages added to the department stores,
and granite floored pedestrian walkways and modern tubular
lighting added to the section behind the Jerozolimskie end.
But snoop behind the area around McD’s and you’ll find a
glorious blast to the past, with smashed pavements, useless
bare-lit supermarkets and a couple of cafes selling ersatz
coffee to hunched old men smoking cigarettes by the fistful.
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Palace of Culture and Science (PKiN) (Pałac
Kultury i Nauki) B-4, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656
76 00, www.pkin.pl. Don’t let the name fool you - this is not
the cultural hub of Warsaw. That said, however long you’re in
the city for this is a must-see to experience Soviet Warsaw.
For all the aggressive westernisation that has overcome
Warsaw, the four decades of communism have yet to be
completely erased from the face of Warsaw.. You couldn’t
miss this hulking giant of a landmark if you tried. Soaring 231
metres into the sky the building remains the tallest in Poland,
in spite of recent competition from its highrise neighbours.
Originally commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet
people’ the structure actually takes its inspiration from the
capitalist world, namely the Empire State Building, but, believe
it or not, was specifically designed to include influences
from all of Poland’s architectural styles. Stalin had sent a
secret delegation to New York to learn both about the building
and American construction methods, though the outbreak
of WWII meant that it wasn’t until 1952 that his architects
were able to commence putting their knowledge into practice.
Lev Rudynev, the brains behind the equally monstrous
Lomonosov University in Moscow, was put in charge of the
design and set about making the building into one of the most
notorious examples of Socialist Realist architecture in the
world. Over 5,000 workers were ferried in from the Soviet
states and housed in a purpose-built village in Jelonki, west
Warsaw, where they were effectively cut off from the outside
world. Working around the clock, it took them just three years
to complete the Palace. In all 16 died during the construction,
though despite the Olympian efforts of the labourers Stalin
never lived to see his pet project completed.
Built using an estimated 40 million bricks and housing 3,288
rooms the Palace’s purpose was to serve as not just party
headquarters but also ‘the people’s castle’, with invitations
to the annual New Year’s Eve Ball issued to the best workers
in socialist Poland. Regardless of this the building became an
object of hatred and a stain on the skyline; like the imperialist
Nevsky Cathedral that once stood on pl. Piłsudskiego, the palace
was seen as no more than a symbol of Russian hegemony.
Viewed from a distance - apparently it can be spotted from
30km away - the palace appears a faceless monolith. Viewed
closely several intricate details appear in focus. Under Stalin’s
orders architects travelled around Poland’s key cultural sights,
from Wawel to Zamość, observing Polish architectural traditions,
hence the numerous crenulations, courtyards and motifs.
Once inside the ground floor becomes a maze of halls and
corridors, with chambers named after Eastern icons - Yuri
Gagarin, Marie Skłodowska-Curie (a famous communist
sympathiser), etc. Brass chandeliers hang over clacking
parquet flooring, secret lifts lie hidden around and allegorical
socialist reliefs take inspiration from ancient mythology - it’s
easy to imagine Bond snooping around planting listening devices.
Several conference rooms still hold original translator
booths, complete with huge dials and buttons. The crowning
glory of the ground floor is the Sala Kongresowa, a decadent
red theatre space apparently inspired by La Scala. Holding
2,880 its original use was to host party conferences, though
through the years it became better known as a concert venue
- hosting acts as diverse as the Rolling Stones in 1967 and
the Chippendales in 2006.
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PKIN
Kescior/Wikipedia
Given that the building boasts over 3,300 rooms there is
not a lot to see, unless you’re into conference facilities, so
visitors are best directed to the terrace on the 30th floor. To
get there you’ll need to buy a ticket for 15zł, after which you’ll
be shepherded into an old-style lift complete with a lovely
lift attendant who has probably been doing the job since
the building opened. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Admission for
the viewing level is 15/10zł. Group ticket for more than 10
people 8zł per person. Note that in December on Fridays
and Saturdays you can see the Warsaw panorama by night
(between 18:00 - 22:00) for 15zł per person.
Museum of Technology (Muzeum Techniki) B-4,
Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), tel. (+48) 22 656 67 47, www.
muzeumtechniki.warszawa.pl. A vast collection dedicated
to the history of everything technological inside the equally
enormous Palace of Culture & Science, this museum is only
missing a map. Truly huge, and clearly laid out by somebody
with a sadistic sense of humour, the scores of rooms are
scattered willy nilly and organised with what appears to be a
contemptuous disregard for reason and logic. Highlights include
a cavalcade of impossible-looking motorbikes and aeroplanes,
a room packed with 19th century musical boxes, historical cars
like a 1936 Lux-Sport limousine chassis and a small exhibition
celebrating space exploration that could do with some serious
updating. Decorated with lace curtains and staffed by an army
of sinister-looking old ladies, this museum guarantees that you
won’t learn a thing no matter how hard you try, but it’s a strangely
rewarding experience that really has to be seen to be believed.
Q Open 08:30 - 16:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 14/8zł. Family ticket (up to 5 people) 30zł. Guided
tours in English - additional 50zł per group.
December 2012 - January 2013
87

88 OLD TOWN
WHAT OLD TO TOWN SEE
Old Town (Stare Miasto) B-1/2. The Old Town is a
labyrinth of winding streets and squares full of olde worlde
charm. While it was entirely rebuilt after the Warsaw uprising
of 1944, it is well worth a visit to get lost amongst the
cobbles and tastefully recreated facades. Souvenirs ranging
from the tasteless - baseball hats and fridge magnets, paintings
of coquettish horses - to the tasteful - amber, lace and
ceramics - are best found here, though at premium tourist
prices. The best thing about the Old Town, however, is the
tangible sense of Polish pride in their city and if nothing else,
it’s a great place to relax with a beer and indulge in an hour
or two of nun spotting.
When US General Dwight Eisenhower visited Warsaw
immediately after the war he was moved to comment, “I
have seen many towns destroyed, but nowhere have
I been faced with such destruction.” Buried under
twenty million cubic metres of rubble the city resembled
a shattered shell; over half the population had been killed,
and 85% of the city razed to the ground. The Old Town had
been hit with particular Nazi efficiency, and by the time
the Red Army rolled across the river it was little more than
a smouldering heap of bricks. To their credit the Capital
Reconstruction Bureau chose to rebuild the historic centre,
a painstaking process that would last until 1962. Using
pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs the Old
Town was carefully rebuilt, though only at the considerable
expense of Poland’s ‘recovered territories’. Szczecin, for
instance, was coerced into demolishing many of its historic
buildings in order to ‘donate’ an estimated 27 million bricks
to the Warsaw rebuilding program. So too Wrocław, which
at one stage was sending a staggering one million bricks
to Warsaw per day; ‘He who loves Wrocław, loves Warsaw
as well’ pined a propaganda tune of the era. But forget the
other cities, look at the results in front of you. Although
it’s barely half a century old Warsaw’s historic quarter is
an architectural miracle, and a breathing tribute to a city
that refused to die.
Most visits to the Old Town begin on plac Zamkowy (B-2),
and if you’re Polish then right under the statue of Zygmunt.
There isn’t a more popular meeting spot in the city, and
there’s not a minute of the day when the steps to the
statue aren’t besieged by dating couples or banjo playing
irritants. Erected in 1644 by Zygmunt III’s son, Władysław
IV, the twenty two metre column was originally designed by
Italian architects Augustyn Locci and Constantino Tencalla,
and the figure of Zygmunt ranks as Poland’s second oldest
monument - beaten into runners up spot by the Neptun
Fountain in Gdańsk. Local legend asserts that Zygmunt
rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence
that was first reported during the 1794 Kościuszko
Uprising and again during WWII. One fact that can’t be
disputed is his good fortune. With the Warsaw Uprising in
full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and
came crashing down. Amazingly Zygmunt survived, losing
only his sword, and he was returned to a new perch in 1949.
The column he fell off is still knocking around as well, and
you can find it lying on its side within spitting distance of
the Royal Castle.
Moving forward head down Świętojańska to run a gauntlet
of buskers, ice cream queues and shoe shine boys.
Somewhere amid the melee you’ll spot the Cathedral (see
Churches), well worth popping into, not least to check out
the Baruczkowski Crucifix - a 16th century cross renowned
for its mysterious powers. Famed in particular for its crypt
this neo-Gothic masterpiece also contains stunning works
of art, as well as tank tracks on the exterior wall recovered
from a remote-controlled German tank used to attack the
cathedral in 1944. The overall effect is quite something, so
it’s no surprise many people bypass the Jesuit Church right
next door, a super renaissance building described in detail
in our Churches section.
It’s hard to believe that by the end of 1944 all before you
was just a skeletal set of ruins, but that’s exactly what it
was. Evidence of this can be viewed on ul. Zapiecka where
some black and white photographs show aerial views of the
war time devastation. The Old Town’s subsequent inclusion
on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1980 is remembered
in the form of some cobbled stones set into the ground. As
tempting as it is to make a beeline for the main square, the
Rynek, save yourself for now. Head instead down ul. Piwna,
or Beer Street as it translates. Although there’s no evidence
of the 15th century breweries that once thrived here you will
find a couple of half decent hostelries, though the real reason
many visit this street is for a glimpse of St. Martin’s Church
on ul. Piwna 9/11. This place was utterly annihilated during
the war, and the only fragment to survive was a half-burned
figure of Jesus. Since its inception the church has always
been linked with theological and political dissent, and this
was never more true than in the period of Martial Law, when
Solidarity supporters would convene here for both worship
and secret meetings. As with the rest of Old Town, the real
beauty of Piwna lies in the details - check out the elaborate
paintings and gargoyles that peer from the facades, and
don’t miss the portal at number 6. Known locally as Pod
Gołębiami (under the pigeons) and housing a restaurant
called Karmnik, this place acquired its name after the war
when a batty old woman settled in the ruins and made it her
calling to look after the flocks of pigeons that stalked around
the post-war debris.
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Stay on the left flank of the Old Town to check out the area
around ul. Piekarska and ul. Rycerska. This area was formerly
home to a small square used primarily for executions.
Nicknamed Piekarka this is where witches and other ne’er do
wells would be burned at the stake, hung or have their heads
lopped off. Marking the end of Piekarska, just outside the old
city walls, check out the sword waving figure of Jan Kiliński
(see Monuments), a legendary Polish patriot and a hero of the
1794 Kościuszko Uprising. The man who gave his name to
that Uprising, Tadeusz Kościuszko (the same lad who would
fight with distinction in the American War of Independence,
and would later have Australia’s highest peak named after
him), lived at Szeroki Dunaj 5. This wide street was formerly
home to Warsaw’s fish market, while the street running at a
90 degree angle, Wąski Dunaj, was the town’s original Jewish
Quarter back in medieval times. Directly behind the wall, and
onto Podwale, you’ll find one of Warsaw’s most photographed
landmarks; The Monument to the Little Insurgent. Depicting
a boy weighed down by a machine gun and outsized helmet
the monument honours the memory of the child soldiers who
fought and died in the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, and it’s not
rare to find the bronze statue surrounded by school groups
on their day out to the capital.
Follow Podwale as it curves northwards, and if you’re
feeling peckish at this stage search the radar for signs
of Podwale Kompania Piwna at number 25 (see Where to
Eat). Resembling a typical European beer hall this place
is an absolute legend, with servings of meat and cabbage
practically forklifted onto tables. At this stage it’s fair to say
you’ll probably be feeling like a python who swallowed a pig,
so waddle with great care and attention to the Barbakan
building, making sure to avoid those annoying street dudes
who’ll try and lead you to their executioners block to have
your pic snapped. Crowning the set of defensive walls which
once protected the city is the Barbakan, a fearsome rotund
structure that dates from 1548 and was apparently the work
of a Venetian architect. Today it serves as a bridge between
Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for
teenagers drinking super-strength lager. In summer tours of
the interior are available, and well worth the look if you don’t
have an aversion to confined spaces. Interestingly, the moat
that pins the Old Town in is another relatively recent addition
to Warsaw. The original ditch was filled in back in the 18th
century when the defences became obsolete, and the walls
were incorporated into the dense tangle of townhouses
that mushroomed up around. Fragments of these forgotten
defences were unearthed in 1937, and a decade later, with
Warsaw in ruins, architects took the decision to restore and
expose these ancient walls.
It’s at this point you’ll find your nose pointing straight down
ul. Nowomiejska, a street revered for Warsaw’s best ice
cream. Continue forward to reach the Old Town Square
(Rynek). No matter how often you see it, it can’t fail to leave
you breathless. The burgher houses that line the square
are particularly striking, with many boasting intricate details
on the facades. Measuring 90 metres by 73 this square is
Warsaw’s defining highlight, and presents unlimited ways
to squander your money - tourist junk stores and crappy
restaurants populated with stuffed animals come to mind.
One place that is worth popping into, even if it’s just to steal
the cutlery, is U Fukiera at number 27. The culinary tradition
here dates from 1810 when the Fukier family turned this
place into Warsaw’s top winery. Today the restaurant is
in the hands of the Gesslers, and their guest list reads as
something of a Who’s Who of stage and screen. Close by is
the Historical Museum of Warsaw, which has been closed
for renovations but reopens in May – be one of the first to
see this excellent museum’s overhaul.
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Back outside take stock of one of Poland’s finest town
squares. In the 15th century this was occupied by a town
hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never replaced.
Instead, today you’ll find a couple of water pumps
dating from the 19th century, as well as Warsaw’s best
loved monument - Syrenka. Cast in 1855 this mermaid’s
form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms you’ll find in
the capital. You’re also liable to run into a platoon of street
artists. Most famous of the lot is Piotr Bol, a weird, cloaked
little man who plays one of Europe’s last music boxes with
a parrot alongside him. But for real comedy gold check out
the mime artists who stand in frozen posture - a few years
back one such chap, dressed as a monk, collapsed after
a marathon booze binge leaving his giant genitals exposed
to the world.
Leaving the square head down ul. Kamienne Schodki.
Not only is this the longest stairwell in Old Town, it’s also
where Napoleon stood in 1806, pensively staring eastward
on the eve of his campaign on the plains of Russia.
From here walk south down ul. Brzozowa until you reach
the grassy bank that offers sweeping views of the River
Wisła. Known as Gnojna Góra (Compost Hill), this small
knoll once served as the town rubbish dump, and at one
stage was also renowned for its healing properties - this is
where the stupid rich would come to be buried up to their
necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis. Doesn’t
work, we’ve tried.
Head back towards the Old Town by walking towards ul.
Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most
picturesque sights in the city. Finally, conclude your epic
walking tour by swerving onto ul. Kanonia. Once a graveyard,
this small little square features a cracked cathedral
bell (that promises good luck if you touch the top and
circle it) as well as what is touted as the world’s narrowest
house at number 20/22 (though a new narrow home being
constructed in the crack between 22 Chłodna St. and 74
Żelazna St. that measures just 72 cm at its smallest point
may just top it). Close by note the covered walkway linking
the cathedral to the castle. This was built after a failed
assassination attempt on Zygmunt III. The King escaped
unmolested, but the hapless hitman, Michal Piekarski,
found himself skinned alive, stretched by four horses and
then chopped into pieces with an axe. And on that happy
note, consider your tour at an end.
December 2012 - January 2013
89

90 PRAGA
WHAT TO PRAGA SEE
Gritty. Bo-ho. Up-and-coming. There are a lot of terms being
tossed around to describe Praga, the eastern district of
Warsaw that hugs the Vistula River, and they’re all fairly apt.
Praga has long been regarded as off-limits to Western visitors
thanks to its criminal underclass and imposing tower blocks,
but a revival of sorts now makes this section of town worthy
of emphasising - especially if you prefer to see the city’s
artsy underbelly and get away from the well-trodden tourist
path in Old Town. The area is still at least five years away
from being hipster-soaked Brooklyn or boho Montmartre, but
that’s exactly why now is the time to go: a visit will mean you
can say you saw the evolution in progress.
In practice and geographically Praga has always been set
apart from Warsaw proper. Until 1791 the district was its own
separate town and the inability to build a permanent bridge
between Praga and Warsaw until the mid-18th century surely
proved a factor in the separatism (ferries in the summer
and a stroll across the iced-over Vistula in the winter were
the main option for transit in the pre-bridge days). Finally
in 1791 King Stanislaw August Poniatowski attached the
district officially to Warsaw, dissolving it of its independence
(at least on paper).
Praga wasn’t given much time to enjoy its new status as
part of Warsaw thanks to the The Battle of Praga in 1794,
which saw an aggressive invasion by the Russian army. Following
the quick but devastating battle the Russians burned
the entire district and massacred the 20,000 Poles living
there. During World War II Praga wasn’t quite as devastated
as Warsaw proper (which isn’t really saying much if you’ve
seen the condition Warsaw was left in). The Russians, again,
arrived in Praga in July 1944 and stopped at the Vistula,
famously leaving the Polish Home Army dangling during the
Warsaw Uprising.
Today working-class Praga is the standard-bearer for cool,
especially among those who find the tourist-heavy Old Town
too Disneyfied and the sterile clubs of Warsaw proper as
distasteful. Folks here prefer their bars dark and their fun
improvised, and visitors can easily spend a day checking
out the sights and an evening enjoying the often impressive
beer selection.
Agnieszka Osiecka Monument (Pomnik Agnieszki
Osieckiej) H-2, ul. Francuska (corner of ul.
Obrońców). Agnieszka Osiecka (1936 - 1997) was a Polish
poet and journalist, and the author of over 2,000 songs,
many of which were turned into pop hits. She’s also known
for a particularly grisly connection to the Swinging Sixties;
her first marriage ended in tragedy when her husband,
Wojciech Frykowski, became one of those slain by Charles
Getting there
By Public Transport:
From Centralna the 160 bus will take you across the
river and drop you at the Park Praski stop, a great place
to begin your tour of Praga (you can nod at the bears
as you disembark). If you’re in the Old Town simply walk
down the steps near the Royal Castle to Al. Solidarnosci
and the Stare Miasto tram stop and every tram heading
over the river (23, 26) stops at Park Praski as well. These
same trams will return you to the Stare Miasto as well.
By taxi:
You can also take a taxi which should cost around
20-30zł and should take you from the centre area to
Ząbkowska in less than 20 minutes. Please remember
that the price and time depends on the traffic, so your
journey may be longer during rush hours.
Manson’s family of weirdos in what would turn out to be
one of the crimes of the century. The statue is located in
Praga Południe, a more modern section of Praga (note the
surrounding embassies) than Stara Praga. To round out your
visit check out Osiecka’s favourite café, Maska, which stands
around the corner from her monument.
Bears C-1, Praski Park (from al. Solidarności), tel.
(+48) 22 619 40 41. Strangely enough, bears have been
living on the concrete island in Praski Park since 1949; over
400 have been reared here before being packed off to zoos,
safari parks and circuses around the globe. Although the
bears look rather sleepy they can still pack a punch. Several
years ago a drunken idiot was savaged after jumping into
the enclosure. The two current well-rested residents are
called Tatra and Turnia.
Buildings. Although in a sorry state of disrepair, much of
Praga survived the war. Nowadays, to walk around the bulletscarred
tenement houses found by the riverside is to immerse
yourself in pre-war Praga. The oldest surviving residential
building in the district can be found on (H-1) ul. Targowa 50/52.
Built in 1819, it once housed a Jewish elementary school and
bears a Hebrew inscription dating from 1934. The Praska
Informacja Turystyczna (Praga Tourist Information) offers a
brochure about the building’s history that is unfortunately only
in Polish, however the staff is happy to interpret.
Kapela Podwórkowa Monument G-1, corner of ul.
Floriańska and ul. Kłopotowskiego. The tradition of clothcapped
buskers goes back a long way in Warsaw, and the
best loved of the lot have been commemorated in the heart
of Praga. The pre-war Kapela Podwórkowa (The Courtyard
Band) are a bit of a local legend in these parts, and now the
five piece band have been honoured with a noisy monument
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
sculpted by Andrzej Renes. Send a text (SMS) message to tel.
7141 with the text KAPELA, then pick a number between 1
and 100 (the list of 100 songs to choose from is on the side
of the brass drum); that’s the signal for hidden speakers to
burst forth with pre-war and patriotic classics made famous
by these local heroes. However, recent visits to the statue
have shown the buskers to be temperamental, and texts did
not always result in a song being played.
Kościuszkowców Monument (Pomnik
Kościuszkowców) G-1, ul. Wybrzeże Szczecińskie,
Near Port Praski. A formidable monument erected in 1985
to act as a memorial for those who fought in the First Polish
Infantry Division. Formed in Russia, the division attempted
to cross the Wisła river several times without success, in a
bid to support the 1944 Uprising.
Orthodox Church of St. Mary Magdalene (Cerkiew
Św. Marii Magdaleny) G-1, Al. Solidarności 52, tel.
(+48) 22 619 84 67. Constructed between 1867 and 1869
to a design by Mikołaj Syczew, St. Mary Magdalene’s was
originally built for the large congregation of Russians living
around Jagiellońska as well as people arriving from the East
at the nearby Wileńska train station. Now belonging to the independent
Polish Autocephaly Orthodox Church, this stunning,
five-domed building features a breathtaking golden interior
and some unusually cheerful abstract designs. One of only
two Orthodox churches to survive a demolition campaign in
the 1920s, it’s easily the best-smelling church in Praga thanks
to the heavy burning of rich incense. QOpen 11:00 - 15:00.
Różycki Bazaar (Bazar Różyckiego) H-1, ul.
Targowa 54, tel. (+48) 22 619 44 06, www.bazarrozyckiego.pl.
Once regarded as Warsaw’s premier bazaar,
the rambling Bazar Różyckiego has seen its popularity wane
since 1989. Black market trade once thrived under Nazi
and communist governments, but nowadays the historic
102-year-old market is a ghostly image of its former self.
Once considered the place for cardigans, firearms and
spurious goods, it’s now a mildly depressing look into working
class Warsaw life. Visitors could easily outfit an entire
polyester wedding thanks to the heaps of vendors selling
cheap wedding dresses, tacky kiddie tuxes and chintzy
mother-of-the-bride gowns. QOpen 07:00 - 16:00, Sat
07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Soviet War Memorial (Pomnik Braterstwa Broni)
G-1, Pl. Wileński. Dedicated to the Soviet soldiers who died
during the ‘liberation’ of Warsaw, this monument has been
removed due to the construction of a new Metro station
and will spend some time being restored before relocating
80 metres down the road on Pl. Wileński (towards ul. Cyryla
i Metodego). Erected in the immediate aftermath of WWII,
the rusting edifice is the city’s least loved memorial and
is often littered with graffiti (though the clean-up should
temporarily take care of this). Its Praga location is quite
apt - this was where the Red Army halted their advance in
1944, while Nazi troops put down the Warsaw Uprising and
then demolished the city.
Tourist information
Praga Tourist Information (Praska Informacja
Turystyczna) H-1, ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, tel. (+48)
22 670 01 56, www.totu.travel.pl. Info on the local
area and guided tours in English and Polish, as well as
an application for smartphones that offers a tour of
Praga in English. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Sts. Michael & Florian
Cathedral (Katedra Św.
Michała Archanioła i
Św. Floriana) G-1, ul.
Floriańska 3, tel. (+48) 22
619 09 60, www.katedrafloriana.home.pl/cms/.
This
giant gothic cathedral viewable
from across the Vistula
in Warsaw proper was built
in reaction to the building of
an Orthodox Church and a
number of other structures on
the Tsar’s orders in the latter
half of the 19th century. A
certain Pole by the name of Father Ignacy Dutkiewicz decided
to hit back with the construction of a huge new Catholic
church, which was consecrated in 1901. Unsurprisingly this
vast Gothic beast was blown to pieces by the Germans in
September 1944 and is now almost exclusively the work of
ongoing reconstruction between 1947 and 1970. Featuring
a pair of steel-tipped 75-metre steeples, the church, which
includes a photograph of what remained of it after the Nazis
dynamited it on the left wall as you enter, has a rather plain
interior though the vaulted ceilings are well worth a look at if
you’re in the area. Q Open by prior arrangement.
Ząbkowska. Nowhere is Praga’s revival better illustrated
than ulica Ząbkowska, the natural gravitational point for all
the Boho and artistic types who have recently materialized
to upgrade the district. Originally lined with timber frame
houses, Ząbkowska experienced a fierce blaze in 1868 that
led to wooden lodgings being replaced with tall tenements, all
but one surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street hard,
with Ząbkowska allowed to fall into such disrepair that plans
for wholesale demolition were seriously considered. However
it survived, and today restoration work has seen many of
buildings returned to their former glory, streets repaved and
galleries opened. For some the very name Ząbkowska is synonymous
with lively bars filled with student revolutionaries.
Zoo C-1, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41,
www.zoo.waw.pl. If the bears piqued your interest in animals
then head to the nearby Warsaw Zoo, which was opened in
1928 and covers an area of 40 hectares. More than 5,000
species call it home and that includes all the biggies you’d
expect: lions, gorillas, giraffes and elephants to name a few.
As with every major Warsaw landmark, the zoo has plenty of
war stories. It was bombed at the beginning of the conflict and
by 1945 all the animals had either been killed, deported to
the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo
director, Jan Żabiński, became something of a hero; wounded
during the 1944 Uprising, Żabiński helped save countless lives
by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo. The
zoo officially re-opened in 1949. Q Open 09:00 - 15:30, Sun
09:00 - 16:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission
18/13zł. Children under 3 years free.
Where to drink
Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22. See Nightlife.
Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra H-1, ul. Jagiellońska 22.
See Nightlife.
Saturator ul. 11 listopada 22. See Nightlife.
W Oparach Absurdu H-1, ul. Ząbkowska 6. See
Nightlife.
Where to eat
DeCoteria H-1, ul. Ząbkowska 16. See Restaurants.
December 2012 - January 2013
91

92 WARSAW UPRISING
WARSAW WHAT UPRISING TO SEE
Insurgents charge into battle
August 1, 1944. Warsaw, subject to five years of fascist
hegemony, rose up in popular rebellion in what would go on
to be recorded as the largest ever uprising in the German
occupied territories. With German morale in ribbons, a retreat
from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army already on the
east bank of the Wisła, no time seemed better than the present.
Following close contact with the Polish government-inexile,
and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Poland’s
wartime military movement a.k.a the Armii Krajowy or AK)
launched a military strike with the aim of liberating Warsaw
and installing an independent government.
During the event the Red Army made no concerted attempt
to help the Poles, while promises of Allied support proved
largely empty. As for the Nazi hierarchy, they reacted with
blind rage to this stroke of Polish insolence, and what ensued
was an epic 63 day struggle during which the Home Army
faced the full wrath of Hitler. The most notorious chapter of
Warsaw’s history was about to be written.
Outbreak of War
At 4:45am on September 1, 1939, shots were fired from German
gun emplacements positioned inside the lighthouse
at Danzig Neufahrwasser, found in what was then known as
the Free City of Danzig (today Gdansk). The object of the
aggression was the military garrison stationed on the Polish
controlled Westerplatte Peninsula, and within minutes the
German battleship Schleswig Holstein joined the bombardment,
inadvertently kicking off a conflict that would last six
years and cost 55 million lives.
Approximately an hour after Westerplatte the capital itself
came under aerial bombardment; waves of Stuka dive bombers
swooped on the capital in what can only be described
as one of the world’s first ever terror bombings - hospitals,
schools and market places were all deemed legitimate
targets, while columns of fleeing refugees were strafed from
the air. Within a week German land forces had reached the
city limits, though any thoughts of a swift lightning victory
were quickly rebuffed. An opening tank assault on Ochota
was fended off, with the German’s losing 80 tanks from an
attacking force of 220. Spurred on by the stirring broadcasts
of Warsaw Mayor Stefan Starzynski the defenders dug in for
siege, fighting street by street and inch for inch. A German
demand for surrender on September 14th was rejected,
and in spite of claims of triumph in the German press the
city fought on, civilians and military alike joining together in
a desperate attempt to ward off the invaders.
Warsaw’s fate, and indeed Poland’s, was sealed days
later on the 17th of September when the Soviets invaded
from the east thereby fulfilling their part in the Nazi/Soviet
Molotov-Ribbentrop pact. Even so, with the odds stacked
against them, the Poles continued the fight on two fronts,
with segments of Chopin aired every 30 seconds by radio
to let the outside world know that Warsaw was still Polish.
However the human cost was starting to mount; the merciless
bombardment had claimed the lives of over 50,000
Varsovians, the Royal Castle lay in ruins, and supplies of
food, power and water had reached critical levels. With Allied
aid not forthcoming, and a humanitarian disaster looming
large, the capital finally raised the white flag on September
28th. To bring the Polish heroics into perspective, Paris,
defended by the largest standing army in the world, took
just nine days to fall.
Occupation
Hitler arrived in Warsaw for his one and only visit to the
Polish capital on October 5th, inspecting a victory parade
on (C-4) Al. Ujazdowskie before scuttling off for a reception
at the Belvedere Palace. If his pre-war rants hadn’t been
ominous enough, the Polish public were about to learn just
what a nutcase this man really was. “The Fuhrer’s verdict on
the Poles is damning,” wrote Goebbels shortly after Hitler’s
stopover. “More like animals than human beings, completely
primitive, stupid and amorphous.”
Hitler carved Poland into pieces - parts were annexed into
the Reich, other areas - Warsaw included - found themselves
under the General Government of Hans Frank, an expert chess
player and fanatical Nazi: “If I had to put up a poster for every
seven Poles I shot, the forests of Poland would not be sufficient
to manufacture the paper,” he is said to have bragged. His rule
was textbook despot, both brutal and bloody, and it was under
his suggestion that Ludwig Fischer was appointed governor of
Warsaw, a post he would hold right until 1945. Fischer was
more bureaucrat than butcher, yet nonetheless it was under
his authority that Warsaw became a city of blood.
The racial politics of the Reich were pursued with active
intent, with whole swathes of the city set aside for Germans
only. The largest Ghetto the world has ever seen was
constructed to the north, and Warsaw was marginalized in
importance and earmarked as a town whose true purpose
would be to soak up refugees expelled from Aryan territories
to the west. Chopin disappeared from his plinth, Copernicus
and his statue were awarded German identity, and the Polish
community alienated from their own city. Daily rations were
set to 669 calories (184 for Jews), and it’s estimated that a
quarter of the population were only saved from starvation
by the appearance of emergency soup kitchens. But worse
was to follow; from 1943 the Gestapo were granted carte
blanche to shoot people on mere suspicion of wrongdoing,
and street roundups and public executions became a daily
occurrence. This wasn’t so much a city under occupation as
a city under tyranny.
Into captivity
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
The Uprising
With such a malignant machine in force it’s little surprise
Poland gave birth to Europe’s largest resistance movement.
Even still, with the war moving towards its closing
stages it was far from obvious that the resistance would
abandon its partisan tactics and launch a bona fide military
assault on the Nazis. By July 1944 the Red Army
led by Marshal Rokossovsky had reached the Wisla, and
on July 22 a panicked Fischer ordered the evacuation of
German civilians from Warsaw; sensitive papers were
torched and destroyed, trains screeched westwards to
Berlin and all the signs suggested liberation was but days
away. German intelligence was aware that an uprising
was possible, yet nothing seemed clear cut. Fischer’s
appeals for 100,000 Poles to present themselves to
work on anti-tank defences were ignored, as were broadcasts
reminding the Poles of their heroic battle against
Bolshevism in 1923. Tensions increased with Red Army
leaflet drops urging Varsovians to arms, and were further
exacerbated on July 30th with a Soviet radio announcement
declaring, “People of the capital! To arms! Strike at
the Germans! May your million strong population become
a million soldiers, who will drive out the German invaders
and win freedom.” Still, like boxers prowling the ring, each
side appeared locked in a waiting game, so much so that
German military despatches on the afternoon of August
1, 1944 concluded with, “Warschau ist kalm.” Warsaw
was anything but.
On orders from General Tadeusz ‘Bor’ Komorowski 5pm
signalled W-Hour (Wybuch standing for outbreak), the
precise time when some 40,000 members of the Home
Army would attack key German positions. Warsaw at the
time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any
numerical supremacy the Poles could count on was offset
by a chronic lack of arms, and a complete dearth of heavy
armour. Nonetheless the element of surprise caught the
Germans off guard, and in spite of heavy losses the Poles
captured a string of strategic targets, including the old town,
Prudential Tower (then the tallest building in Poland), and
the post office. The first day had cost the lives of 2,000
Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag
fluttered once more over the capital.
Yet in spite of these initial successes their remained several
concerns. Polish battle groups were spread across
the city, and many had failed to link up as planned. More
worryingly, several objectives had been met with disaster
- the police district around (G-4) Al. Szucha remained
firmly in German hands, even more importantly, so did the
airport. Hitler, meanwhile, was roused out of his torpor,
screaming for “No prisoners to be taken,” and “Every
inhabitant to be shot.”
Within days German reinforcements started pouring in,
and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through
the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men,
women and children in what would become one of the most
savage episodes of the Uprising. Indeed, it was to prove a
mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, behind
the barricades, cultural life thrived - over 130 newspapers
sprang up, religious services were celebrated and a scout
run postal service introduced. Better still, the first allied air
drops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out,
this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under
the command of the Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy
artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks. Even
worse, the practice of using Polish women as human shields
was quickly introduced.
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Luftwaffe v Warsaw
The insurgents were a mixed bag, featuring over 4,000
women in their ranks, a unit of Slovaks, scores of Jews
liberated from a Warsaw concentration camp, a platoon
of deaf and dumb volunteers led by an officer called Yo
Yo, and an escaped English prisoner of war called John.
Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on their side was
an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were
almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans,
yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic self-assurance.
Air drops were vital if the uprising was to succeed, though
hopes were scuppered with Stalin’s refusal to allow Allied
planes landing rights in Soviet-held airports. Instead the
RAF set up a new route running from the Italian town of
Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved high with
over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccurate
- one such mission concluding with 960 canisters out of
a 1,000 falling into German hands. All hopes, it seemed,
rested on the Russians.
After six weeks of inaction Rokossovsky finally gave the go
ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross the
river and relieve the insurgents. The operation was a debacle,
and with heavy casualties and no headway made the assault
was called off. For the Russians, this single attempt at crossing
the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was on its own. Already
by this time the situation in Warsaw’s old town, defended by
8,000 Poles, had become untenable, and a daring escape
route was hatched through the sewers running under the
city. The Germans were now free to focus on wiping out
the remaining outposts of resistance, a task undertaken
with glee and armour. Six hundred millimetre shells were
landing on the centre every eight minutes, and casualties
were rising to alarming rates. Surrender negotiations were
initiated in early September, though it wasn’t till the end of
the month - by which time all hope had been exhausted - that
they took a concrete shape. Abandoned by her allies the
Poles were forced to capitulate once more, some 63 days
after they had taken on the Reich. “The battle is finished,”
wrote a eulogy in the final edition of the Information Bulletin.
“From the blood that has been shed, from the common toil
and misery, from the pains of our bodies and souls, a new
Poland will arise - free.”
December 2012 - January 2013
93

WARSAW UPRISING
94 95
Aftermath
Having deposited their weaponry at pre-designated sites,
11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity,
defeated but proud. The battle had cost up to 200,000
civilian lives, while military casualties between Germans
and Poles would add a further 40,000 to the figure. Hitler
was ecstatic; with the Uprising out of the way his plan to
raze Warsaw could finally be realized. Remaining inhabitants
were exiled (though around 2,000 are believed to
have seen the liberation by hiding in the ruins), and the
Germans set about obliterating what was left of the city.
“No stone can remain standing,” warned Himmler, and what
happened next can only be described as the methodical
and calculated murder of a city. Buildings were numbered
according to their importance to Polish culture before being
dynamited by teams of engineers, while less historic areas
were simply burned to the ground. Nothing was spared
the iconoclasm, not even trees. “I have seen many towns
destroyed,” exclaimed General Eisenhower after the war,
“But nowhere have I been faced with such destruction.”
Modern studies estimate the cost of damage at around
fifty four billion dollars. In human terms Poland lost
much more. With the Uprising died a golden generation,
the very foundation a new post-war Poland could build
on. Those veterans who survived were treated with
suspicion and disdain by the newly installed communist
government, others were persecuted for perceived
western sympathies. Post-war Soviet show trials
convicted 13 leaders of the Uprising for anti-Soviet
actions, and thereafter the Uprising was condemned
as a folly to serve the bourgeois ends of the Polish
government-in-exile. Today, finally, the event that has
come to define the spirit of Warsaw, has been awarded
the recognition it deserves.
‘Freedom came out against slavery. The flame of the
Uprising remained in people’s hearts and souls. It was
passed on by the baton of the generations. The spirit
proved indestructible and immortal. Soldiers of the
Rising. You did not die in vain.’
Lech Walesa, 1994
Berling Statue H-3, Wał Miedzeszyński. Zygmunt
Berling is best remembered as the commander of the 1st
Polish Army during WWII, a role that saw him honoured with
his own statue in 1985. Designed by Kazimierz Danilewicz
his white marble monument frequently falls foul of the
vandals, and it’s not uncommon to see Berling’s hands
daubed with blood red paint. That’s on account of Berling’s
associations with the USSR; the 1st Polish Army was little
more than a puppet wing of Stalin’s forces, and Berling’s
perceived inaction during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising still
rankles a great many Poles.
Bielański Bank B-2, ul. Bielańska 10. Few remnants
of the Uprising are more conspicuous than the hulking
shell on ul. Bielańska. It’s got quite a history. The site was
originally home to a mint, but that found itself demolished
to make way for the Warsaw division of the Imperial Bank
of Russia. Designed by Leontij Nikołajewicz Benois, a rector
of the Fine Arts Academy in St Petersburg, construction
began in 1907 and went on for a further four years. Within
another four years the Russian’s had left, the collapse
of the Empire seeing all Tsarist subjects head back east
with their tails between their legs. The Poles took over
the building, first employing it as the National Treasury,
then establishing it as the headquarters of Bank Polski in
1926. The structure became a key strategic target during
the Warsaw Uprising, and on capture served as a base for
Polish insurgents. Smashed to pieces by German bombs
the building was left to rot in the decades that followed.
Originally slated to house the Warsaw Uprising Museum,
the bank was subject to legal wrangles that saw that idea
bite the dust. Now Belgian property developer Ghelamco is
redeveloping the site as an office complex that will open
in mid-2012. According to plans the six-floor building will
expose parts of the walls of the ancient mint.
Execution Sites. The fall of communism brought
with it a huge desire to commemorate the Uprising,
which had hitherto been largely erased from Polish
history by anti-nationalist communist censors. Now
memorial plaques and tablets abound around Warsaw
and though they tend to be in Polish only, it doesn’t
take long to get the hang of them; on the whole they’ll
display the date and number of people executed by
the Nazis.
Monument to the Warsaw Uprising (Pomnik
Powstania Warszawskiego) B-2, Pl.
Krasińskich. It was only with the regime close to
collapse that this unconventional, not to say controversial
monument was unveiled. Completed in 1989
and designed by Wincent Kucma, it depicts a group
of insurgents in battle, and another faction retreating
into the sewers.
Uprising Museum
Warsaw Uprising Museum (Muzeum Powstania
Warszawskiego) D-3, ul. Grzybowska 79, tel.
(+48) 22 539 79 33, www.1944.pl. Opened in 2004,
this remains one of Poland’s best museums. Packed with
interactive displays, photographs, video footage and
miscellaneous exhibits it’s a museum that’s guaranteed
to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram
power station the 2,000m2 space is split over several
levels, leading visitors through the chronological story of
the Uprising (provided they don’t make any wrong turns,
alas, a common mistake).
Start off by learning about life under Nazi rule, your
tour accompanied by the background rattle of machine
guns, dive bombers and a thumping heartbeat.
Different halls focus on the many aspects of the
Uprising; walk through a replica radio station, or a
covert printing press.
The mezzanine level features film detailing the first month
of battle, before which visitors get to clamber through a
mock sewer. The final sections are devoted to the creation
of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of remembrance,
and a particularly poignant display about the destruction
of the city; take time to watch the black and white ‘before
and after’ shots of important Warsaw landmarks being
systematically obliterated by the Nazis as punishment.
Near the exit check out the film “City of Ruins,” a silenceinducing
5 minute 3-D aerial ‘film’ which took 2 years
to make and used old pictures and new technology to
recreate a picture of the desolation of ‘liberated’ Warsaw
in March 1945.
There is also an exact replica of a B24 Allied plane once
used to make supply drops over the besieged city. A viewing
platform and ‘peace garden’ wrap up this high impact
experience Q Open 08:00 - 18:00, Thu 08:00 - 20:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 14/10zł
(children under 7 free). Mon free. Audio guides for 10zł
per person. Film costs 2zł per person. Y
Old Town Square, 1945
Pasta B-3, ul. Zielna 37, www.pastadlamiasta.pl. A real
city landmark, and unmistakable thanks to the great big red
and white P attached to its roof. That P was a favoured sign
of the insurgents, and the buildings importance to the Rising
should not be underestimated. Built between 1904 and 1910
this weird tower like structure - ramparts et al - operated as a
telecommunications centre, a function it continued to serve
under the Nazis. Heavily defended by bunkers and guard
posts it was besieged for twenty two days by the Kilinski
battalion of the Home Army before finally surrendering on the
22nd. In 2000 Prime Minister Jerzy Buzek handed stewardship
of the building to a combatants association, and today,
among numerous other functions, the ground floors are home
to the recommended ‘Na Zielnej’ restaurant.
Prudential Tower B-3, ul. Świętokrzyska. The first building
in Warsaw to surpass fifteen floors. Built using 1,250,000
bricks Warsaw’s first true skyscraper became a major point
of attack on opening day of the Rising, the symbolic meaning
of a Polish flag on Poland’s tallest structure not lost on the
insurgents. The Nazis shelled it heavily, and though it was
gutted its prototype steel skeleton refused to topple. After the
war the tower was given a thinner look, and for decades operated
as the Hotel Warszawa. Closed in 2003, and currently in
various stages of reconstruction courtesy of the Likus Group,
the tower is due to be given a refit and new lease on life as
both a hotel and top-class apartment block.
Ruins of the Rising. Between 1939 and 1944 over 84
percent of Warsaw was completely destroyed, with the city
centre bearing the brunt of the damage. In spite of the Herculean
rebuilding work that has since taken place, bullet scarred walls
on pre-war tenements can still be found in relative abundance
round the few parts of the centre that escaped total destruction.
Perhaps most obvious of all is the building on ul. Waliców,
featuring shell-pocked facades and a wall half-tumbling down.
Sapper Monument (Pomnik Chwała Saperom)
H-3, Park Marszałka Edwarda Śmigłego-Rydza. Designed
by Stanisław Kulon and unveiled on May 8th, 1975,
the monument to the sappers is a typically formidable
piece of 70s brutalism. Designed to evoke the explosive
blast of a landmine this seventeen metre high monstrosity
commemorates the sappers who died defusing mines and
booby traps in the years after the war. “Free Warsaw will
never forget those who, with their pain and blood, started
the work on her reconstruction” reads the accompanying
plaque. The names and units of the sappers who died are
listed on the pylons, as well as Polish-language descriptions
of the hazardous work they undertook.
WARSAW UPRISING
Skaryszewski Park H-2. While the allied air lift to aid the
Uprising proved a disaster, the heroism of the Commonwealth
and Polish pilots who flew missions to relieve Warsaw cannot
be called into question. Standing in Skaryszewski Park on
Warsaw’s east bank is a memorial to commemorate these airmen.
It was here that a Liberator plane crash landed in 1944,
killing all but one of the seven crew on board. The sole survivor,
Henry Lloyd Lyne, unveiled the monument in 1988, and today
it is the sight of the British Embassy’s annual Remembrance
service. In 2000 Lloyd Lyne, a retired farmer, was presented
with a recovered piece of the plane by Queen Elizabeth II.
The Little Insurgent Monument (Pomnik Małego
Powstańca) B-2, ul. Podwale. The communist authorities
continually thwarted efforts to commemorate the Uprising,
though by the early 80s cracks in their resolve were
beginning to show. On October 1, 1983, the most poignant
of all Uprising monuments was unveiled by the walls of the
Barbakan. Designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz and funded by
collections undertaken by scouts, the bronze installation
shows the figure of a boy soldier clutching a Sten gun and
weighed down by an adult-sized helmet. Commemorating the
children who served as messengers and frontline troops, the
figure is inspired by the story of 13 year old corporal Antek,
himself killed in action close to the scene on August 8, 1944.
Wola Massacre Statue (Pomnik Pamięci
Ludności Woli Wymordowanej w Czasie Powstania
1944) D-2, Pl. Solidarności. No other event captures
the brutality of the Uprising better than the Wola Massacre.
Between August 5 and August 6 the Nazis embarked on a
savage bloodletting in an attempt to batter the Poles into
submission. Led by Heinz Reinfarth and Oskar Dirlewanger, a
despicable man with a history of sex crimes against minors,
German units executed approximately 40,000 civilians in
the Wola area of Warsaw. The massacre only came to a
halt when Hitler himself intervened and declared all civilians
be sent to concentration camps instead. While Dirlewanger
was beaten to death by Poles after the war, Reinfarth and
countless others evaded justice. The senseless slaughter
is commemorated by an impressive monument dating from
2006, designed by Ryszard Stryjecki and found practically
opposite the Ibis hotel on Solidarności.
Warsaw Uprising: Aug 1 - October 3
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
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December 2012 - January 2013

96 JEWISH WARSAW
JEWISH WHAT WARSAW TO SEE
Collection of Shalom Foundation by Gołda Tencer - Szurmiej
At the time Hitler chose to expand Germany’s territories
under the odious excuse of providing ‘living space’ for the
German people, Warsaw’s Jewish population numbered
350,000 and growing. Neither pogroms nor the occasional
boycott of Jewish businesses deterred Jews from settling
in the Polish capital and only New York could boast a larger
Jewish community. Yet within six years Warsaw’s thriving
Jewish scene was all but wiped from the map, with over
90 percent perishing either in the Ghetto that or the gas
chambers of Treblinka.
Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare Poland was
seen as a relative safe haven, and it drew settlers forced
into flight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the
inter-war years the Jewish population had made significant
contributions to the social, political and cultural fabric of
Poland, a contribution that would eventually be extinguished
by the monstrous racial policies of the Nazis. When Warsaw
fell following a brief yet brutal siege the city’s ancient Jewish
population was damned to destruction. By 1940 Jews were
forcibly penned into an area that already housed most of
the Jewish population. On March 27, 1940, the Judenrat, a
Jewish council answerable to the Nazi’s whims, was ordered
to build a wall around the ghetto and a resettlement deadline
of October 15 was handed to the city’s Jews. Failure to move
into the assigned area was punishable by death. Spanning
18 kilometres and enclosing 73 of Warsaw’s 1,800 streets,
the area was carved into a ‘small’ and ‘large’ ghetto, the two
linked by a wooden bridge standing over ul. Chłodna (E-2).
Today an installation titled ‘Footbridge of Memory’ stands at
this spot, with optical fibers illuminating the former handrails
over the street at night.
From the beginning conditions in the city were harsh; recovered
Nazi files show that while ethnic Germans were granted
a food allowance totalling 2,613 calories per day, Jews and
other groups deemed ‘sub-human’ were expected to survive
on 184 calories. Unsurprisingly a black market supported by
a smuggling network ran rife, with some 80 percent of the
food in the ghetto supplied through illegal means. Still it was
not enough and as the noose tightened starvation became
the principal enemy. In 1941 over 100,000 died in this way,
their bodies often left to rot in the streets. Of the 800 ghettos
scattered around the Third Reich Warsaw was the largest
and also the deadliest. At its zenith approximately 380,000
residents found themselves squashed into the ghetto, with
an average of eight people to a room. Yet amid this sea of
suffering a remarkable social scene flourished, as proved
by the meticulous ghetto diaries kept by Emanuel Ringelblum.
Although murdered by the Nazis in 1944 Ringelblum,
an intellectual and social activist, kept volumes of notes
documenting the day-to-day life of ghetto inhabitants. It is
from his painstaking notes we learn of the soup kitchens and
charities that existed, of the musical concerts and cabarets
and the fifty or so underground newspapers that circulated
amongst the masses.
The illusion of a self-contained cruel but surviving parallel
world was shattered in 1942 when the Wansee Conference
rubber-stamped plans for the ‘final solution to the Jewish
question’ and the first deportations to death camps began
in July. Over the next few weeks around 265,000 Jews were
harried to a waiting area known as Umschlagplatz, from
which they were loaded into cattle wagons destined for the
Treblinka gas chambers. A year later a new action to thin
the ghetto was launched, and by April 1943 a final push
to completely liquidate the biggest ghetto began. For too
long the Jews had been limited to passive resistance, but
now with rumours circulating about death camps a band of
ill-equipped insurgents faced up to the full weight of the Nazi
military machine. Led by Mordechaj Anielewicz, the Jewish
Fighting Organization (ŻOB) launched the Ghetto Uprising on
April 19, 1943. Numbering a few hundred the Jewish fighters
continued their dogged resistance, but faced with heavy artillery
and even Stuka Dive Bombers it was a doomed struggle.
Vicious street-to-street, house-to-house battles ensued, with
insurgents often burnt out of their boltholes by flamethrowers
and gas. On May 8 German forces surrounded the principal
command post of the rebels on ul. Miła 18 and rather than
face capture Anielewicz and his cabal opted for mass suicide.
By May 16 the Uprising was over, with German commander
Jurgen Stroop announcing, “The former Jewish quarter of
Warsaw is no longer in existence.” With the fighting over the
rest of the ghetto was levelled, and its inmates either sent
to Treblinka or assigned to Gęsiówka (ul. Gęsia), a small
concentration camp. It is estimated that some 15,000 Jews
survived the war hiding out on the Aryan side, but with the
war over and the vitriolic anti-Zionist policies of the post-war
government the majority sought a new life in Israel. Today
Warsaw’s Jewish population is estimated to stand at 2,000
and efforts are underway to gradually reintroduce the city’s
hollowed out Jewish culture.
Collection of Shalom Foundation by Gołda Tencer -
Szurmiej
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Heroes in Horror
Sometimes it takes tragedy to create heroes. This is never
truer than with the Holocaust, a black time where Nazi terror
was answered with dignity and courage. Anti-Semitism was
common in pre-war Poland (in fact so clear was this divide
that the inter-war years saw seated segregation in such grand
institutions as the local university) and under Nazi occupation
collaboration was commonplace - denouncing Jews and revealing
hiding places brought considerable financial reward.
Worse still, there were several instances of Poles actively
taking part in pogroms and ‘Jew hunts,’ the most notorious
occurring in the town of Jedwabne in 1941. It was here on
the 10th of July that a mob of Poles rounded up nearly 400
Jews and marching them to a barn which was subsequently
torched. It’s a shameful episode in Polish history, and one
immortalized in Jan Gross’s book Neighbours. Nevertheless,
such events should be offset by stories of those who
risked life and limb to help the persecuted. Poland was at
the forefront of Nazi terror, and the punishment for sheltering
Jews was death. The policy was unique in the occupied
territories, and ruthlessly enforced. Even so, it is estimated
that over three million Poles actively helped Jews to survive
and Yad Vashem has recognized over 6,000 Poles as being
‘Righteous Among Nations’ - more than in any other country.
In Rozwadow Dr.Eugeniusz Lazowski, a graduate of Warsaw
University, is credited with saving approximately 8,000 Jews after
putting his medical knowledge to use. Having injected the town’s
Jews with a benign form of typhus he then informed the Nazis
that an epidemic was at large. Terrified that it would spread, the
Nazis quarantined the town and left it to its own devices. Known
as ‘the Polish Schindler,’ Lazowski saved 12 ghetto communities
in this crafty manner. “I was not able to fight with a gun or
a sword,” Lazowski said. “But I was able to find a way to scare
the Germans.” In Krakow a gentile pharmacist named Tadeusz
Pankiewicz was given special dispensation to remain in the ghetto
and exploited this to lend aid to the Jews. Medicine and vaccines
were distributed for free, and his pharmacy - now a museum -
came to double as a centre of underground activity. Regarded
as a hero, Pankiewicz’s role in the Holocaust is remembered in
Thomas Kenneally’s epic Schindler’s List.
Another doctor, Irena Sendler, is credited with rescuing over
2,500 Jews from the Warsaw ghetto. Born in 1910, Sendler had
a long history of sympathising with the plight of the Jews and
was suspended for three years from Warsaw University after
voicing her vociferous opposition to segregated benches and
was active in the underground the moment the war broke out.
Aided by her colleagues she forged over 3,000 documents to
help Jewish families, and later headed the children’s section of
Zegota - a secret organization that was a ‘Council to Aid Jews.’
Using the fierce-looking court building on Solidarnosci as her
bridge from the ghetto to freedom she smuggled countless
children inside parcels and boxes. The children were then sent
to live in convents and rectories, but not before she recorded
their identities in a glass jar she kept buried at home. Her actions
aroused the attention of the Gestapo, and in 1943 she was
arrested, tortured and sentenced to death. A bribe from Zegota
saved her life, but nonetheless she was left unconscious in a
forest, with both her arms and legs broken. She was officially
declared dead by the Germans, and spent the rest of the war in
hiding. But even peace brought no respite; she was persecuted
by the communist authorities on account of her wartime relations
with the exiled government, and faced constant harassment.
In 2003 Pope John Paul II sent her a letter praising her
for courage, and later that year she was awarded the Order of
the White Eagle - Poland’s highest civilian decoration. She died
in 2008, though even now remains a target of hate for some; in
July 2010 her grave was vandalized with the words ‘Jews Out.’
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
I can still see their faces
I can still see their faces (I ciągle widzę ich twarze)
B-3, ul. Próżna. The Holocaust and the subsequent
destruction of Warsaw in WWII erased virtually all remnants
of the bustling pre-war Jewish community’s presence in the
city, but there is one place where it is still possible to sense
this lost age. There are two rows of dilapidated tenement
houses dating from 1880-1900 on ul. Próżna (B-3) showing
what Warsaw must have looked like, and adding to this is a
series of giant posters hanging outside the buildings that
depict members of the disappeared Jewish community.
These photos are there thanks to a project called ‘I ciągle
widzę ich twarze’ (I can still see their faces) which was created
by Gołda Tencer, a Polish actress with Jewish origins who is
the founder and director of the Shalom Foundation. In 1994
she appealed to people to send in photographs of Polish
Jews so that an exhibition could be created commemorating
those who died. The incredible response netted over 9,000
photographs, some from survivors and their families, some
from Polish neighbours or friends of those killed. Then in
2008 the ‘I can still see their faces exhibition’ was mounted
in ul. Próżna as part of the commemorations of the 65th anniversary
of the Ghetto Uprising. The effect is quite stunning,
particularly when you consider this street was once bustling
with life, full of traders, stores and Jewish families. Located
in the heart of a now modern city, this really is a place worth
a moment of your time, especially since the tenements are
set to be demolished soon as part of major renovations to the
street (one side of the building has already seen the photos
removed, but the other side remains intact).
Finally, Jan Karski is remembered in the history books as the man
who tried to stop the Holocaust. Born in Lodz in 1914, Karski’s
photographic memory and fluent command of foreign languages
caught the attention of the Polish diplomatic services, landing him
prestigious posts abroad. With Europe gearing up for war Karski
joined the horse artillery, with his unit captured by the Red Army.
Karski avoided death in the forests of Katyn when he escaped
from a train transporting him to a POW camp and headed to
Warsaw to join the Polish underground. Realizing the value of his
remarkable memory his superiors employed Karski as a courier, a
perilous position that involved crossing frontlines in order to swap
information with allies. One such foray saw him captured by the
Gestapo while crossing the Slovakian Tatra Mountains. He slit
his wrists following an intense bout of torture, and was locked in
a closely guarded hospital in Nowy Sacz. Determined not to lose
their star courier a crack team of Polish troops broke him out and
Karski resumed his duties. In 1942 he was chosen to undertake
a daring mission to meet Wladyslaw Sikorski - Prime Minister of
Poland’s government-in-exile - in London, the purpose being to
reveal the extent of German atrocities in occupied Poland. To
gather information he was smuggled into the Warsaw ghetto
and given a graphic tour of the hunger and horror manifesting
behind the walls. The experience proved so powerful that Karski
later found himself questioning his own memory and decided a
second visit was in order to convince him that what he had seen
was real. This time, disguised as a Ukrainian guard, he infiltrated
a transit camp in Izbica and witnessed random brutalities as well
as cattle wagon transports leading Jews to the gas chambers. He
successfully made it to England and was granted an audience with
foreign secretary Antony Eden as well as Sikorski and the leader
of the Jewish Bun. Maddeningly, his testimonies fell on deaf ears.
In the following decades his attempt to stop the Holocaust was
allowed to gather dust, and only came to public attention with
the release of the 1978 epic film Shoah. He died in 2000, eight
years after his Jewish/Polish wife, herself a Holocaust survivor,
committed suicide.
December 2012 - January 2013
97

98
JEWISH WARSAW
What to See
A Footbridge of Memory D-2, Intersection of ul.
Chłodna and ul. Żelazna. One of the most recognisable
images of the Warsaw Ghetto is that of the footbridge
constructed over ul. Chłodna to connect the large and small
ghettos. To commemorate that spot is one of Warsaw’s
newest memorials: a pair of metal poles connected via
optical fibers which, after the sun sets, project the shape of
the footbridge over the road via light. Designed by Tomasz
Tusch-Lec and installed in September 2011, the memorial
also has viewing windows inside the poles where visitors can
flip through images of life in the Warsaw Ghetto.
Jewish Cemetery (Cmentarz Żydowski) D-1, ul.
Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www.beisolam.jewish.org.pl.
A beautiful and poignant place to visit.
The cemetery was originally founded in 1806 and currently
houses around 250,000 tombs. Amongst those buried here
are Ludwik Zamenhof, inventor of the international language
Esperanto. Q Open from 10:00 till dusk, Fri 09:00 - 13:00,
Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission 8zł.
Jewish Historical Institute (Żydowski Instytut
Historyczny im. Emanuela Ringelbluma) B-2, ul.
Tłomackie 3/5, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl.
A chilling recollection of Polish Jewry and the only institution
in Poland focusing entirely on the study of the history and
culture of the Polish Jews. This amazing building houses
permanent and temporary exhibits relating to secular and
religious Jewish life in the country from its beginnings to the
annihilation during WWII and beyond. As well as an excellent
bookshop, the institute’s museum, opened in 1948, features
a large interactive display in the entrance hall that allows its
users to find out about Jewish life in any part of the country, an
extraordinary Warsaw Ghetto exhibition, religious treasures,
an archive and a small cinema. Particularly poignant is the
collection of photographs taken in the Warsaw Ghetto by Heinz
Jost, a German innkeeper who served in the German army and
whose photographs speak volumes about the era. Essential
visiting. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat.
Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5zł. Y
Jewish Museum (Muzeum Historii Żydów
Polskich) C-3, ul. Warecka 4/6 (entrance from ul.
Kubusia Puchatka), tel. (+48) 22 471 03 00, www.
jewishmuseum.org.pl. This place promises to be one of the
city’s biggest and best museums when it officially opens in
December 2013 (temporary exhibits and a cinema will open
this April). Currently being built at vast expense in what was
the Jewish Ghetto during World War II, the museum will tell
the story of Jews in Poland, and will also serve as a centre for
geneology, making the tracing of relatives easier than ever
before. A recent donation of 20 million zlotys from Poland’s
wealthiest citizen, oil mogul Jan Kulczyk, is earmarked for
the creation of the museum’s vast permanent exhibition.
Note that this address is the museum’s office, not the future
location of the museum. For up-to-date information visit their
website and Facebook page.
Monument to the Ghetto Heroes (Pomnik Bohaterów
Getta) A-1, ul. Zamenhofa. Designed by Natan
Rappaport, the monument pays tribute to the heroes of the
Ghetto Uprising of 1943. Found between (E-1) ul. Anielewicza,
Zamenhofa, Lewartowskiego and Karmelicka it is here that
the heaviest fighting took place. In an ironic quirk, the stone
cladding on the monument was originally ordered from
Sweden by Hitler for a victory arch.
Nożyk Synagogue (Synagoga Nożyków) E-3, ul.
Twarda 6, tel. (+48) 22 620 43 24, www.warszawa.
jewish.org.pl. Built between 1898 and 1902 in a neo-
Romanesque style, this was the only Warsaw synagogue to
survive the ravages of war. It was fully restored between 1977
and 1983. Now open for worship. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Fri
09:00 - 13:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat. No visiting
during services. Groups of more than ten should reserve in
advance. Admission 6zł.
Traces of the Ghetto. Following the Ghetto Uprising the
whole area was levelled so few traces remain. If you duck into
the courtyard at (E-3) ul. Sienna 55 you will see a remaining
part of the ghetto wall complete with a commemorative
plaque. Somewhat impressively, the local government have
decided to honour Warsaw’s Holocaust history by introducing
a ‘ghetto trail’. Developed with the help of the Jewish Historical
Institute the route has seen the boundary of the former
Ghetto outlined on pavements, as well as the appearance
of 21 dual language information boards positioned in places
of particular interest. Maps of the ghetto are available from
the Jewish Historical Institute for 10zl.
Umschlagplatz E-1. Found on ul. Stawki (E-1), close to
the intersection with ul. Dzika, Umschlagplatz is a bleak,
slightly disappointing monument marking the spot where
around 300,000 Jews were loaded on cattle wagons bound
for Treblinka. The Nazi commandant in charge of the deportations
lived directly opposite on ul. Stawki 5/7. Lying between
Umschlagplatz and the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes lies
the legendary monument labelled Miła 18 (note: this is not
the address where you can find the monument). Essentially
no more than a symbolic grassy knoll, it marks the spot from
where the Ghetto Uprising was directed.
Willy Brandt Statue A-2, Skwer Willy Brandta. On
December 7, 1970 images were flashed across the world
of German Chancellor Willy Brandt knelt in pensive apology
in front of Warsaw’s Monument to the Ghetto Heroes.
Popularly known as the ‘kniefall’ the spontaneous gesture
was to become a symbol of reconciliation between east
and west, with Brandt later confessing, “Under the weight
of German history, and carrying the burden of the millions
who were murdered, I did what people do when words fail
them.” A monument commemorating his landmark act was
unveiled 30 years later in the north east corner of the park
that houses the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes. Made
of brick, and featuring a brass relief designed by Wiktoria
Czechowska Antoniewska, the monument was unveiled
by a delegation that included Brandt’s widow, Danzig-born
author Gunter Grass, Chancellor Gerhard Schroeder and
Polish Prime Minister Jerzy Buzek. The square in which it
is located has also since been named in honour of Brandt.
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
For the overwhelming majority of Warsaw’s wartime Jews
their journey was destined to end in one place, a hitherto
unknown village called Treblinka. Set 100 kilometres north
east of Warsaw this small rural community would find itself
unwittingly thrust into the eye of the Holocaust, its name
forever etched in mankind’s roll of shame.
Getting There
Treblinka remains a backwater town, and as such travellers
are going struggle to reach it. Put simply, either hire a car
and fire up the GPS, or contact one of the Warsaw-based
tour companies listed in the Sightseeing section who will be
happy to tailor a visit for you. Alternatively, hire a six person
minibus for 250zł - call 604 89 63 97 for further details.
History
Split into two separate sections, Treblinka I and Treblinka II,
Treblinka I was originally established in the summer of 1941
and functioned as a Polish slave labour camp. Treblinka II,
the death camp, opened the following year, receiving its first
human cargo on July 22, 1942. It was designed for the sole
purpose of murder, a function it fulfilled well. Measuring 400
by 600 metres and surrounded with barbed wire fences and
watchtowers, the camp was carefully blended into the heavily
wooded landscape in an effort to mask its existence. Consisting
of a barracks, an armoury and storage areas, the camp
also had a fenced off living area housing 1,000 Jews employed
to clear bodies, hammer out teeth and shave hair. It was also
home to the reception area, where cattle wagons loaded with
Jews would screech to a halt. Built to resemble a legitimate
train station, it was decorated with clocks, timetables, posters
and even an infirmary replete with a Red Cross banner. In
actual fact the infirmary was no more than a sinister façade to
an execution pit, used to murder prisoners too weak to march
to the gas chambers.
Having been stripped naked, arrivals at Treblinka I were
then herded up the tube, a fenced off path leading to the
‘shower block’. It was here that prisoners were ushered into
gas chambers disguised as bathhouses. Carbon monoxide
would then be piped through showerheads, taking as long
as half an hour to asphyxiate those locked inside. At the
height of the killing process up to 20 railway carriages could
be processed within a period of one to two hours. At first
bodies were simply buried in mass graves but by 1943, in
an attempt to conceal all traces of genocide, corpses were
cremated on massive pyres.
Several escape attempts were launched by the permanent
staff of Jewish prisoners, with the biggest coming on August
2, 1943. Having obtained a key to the armoury, a core of
around 70 prisoners aimed to storm the Nazi barricades,
liberate the other prisoners and flee to the forests. The plan
was disrupted when an SS officer, Kurt Kuttner, noticed the
rebels raiding the munitions store. He was killed on the spot,
but the shots alerted the other guards who launched a swift
counter-action. In the brief but fierce gun battle that followed
many buildings were torched, but only a handful of prisoners
succeeded in escaping.
Following the uprising, and a similar one at Sobibor, Himmler
took the decision to close down the Aktion Reinhard
death camps. By October 4, 1943 Treblinka was levelled,
reforested and a family of Ukrainian peasants re-settled
on the adjacent farmland. Although it is impossible to
place an accurate figure on the number of people slaughtered,
conservative estimates suggest that anything from
700,000 to 900,000 people were murdered during the
camp’s existence. Of the number of Jews who passed
through its gates it is thought that fewer than 100 lived to
see the end of the war.
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
TREBLINKA
Following the war several German and Ukrainian guards
were charged with crimes relating to their time at Treblinka.
Most escaped with light sentences ranging from three to
twelve years. The camp commander, Franz Stangl, fled to
Syria and from there to Brazil, until he was finally extradited
to face justice in 1970. He died in prison the following year,
apparently unrepentant.
What to See
What is there to see? Well, not much. The Nazis did a deft
job of erasing their crimes, and visitors will require a vivid
imagination so as to picture what was. Nevertheless, with
some prior knowledge your bumpy journey will be ultimately
rewarded; what Treblinka lacks in physical sites it makes up
for with sheer skin-prickling menace, and a trip out here is
sure to leave you pondering for some time.
Stock up on literature at the car park hut before making your
way to the small exhibition house. Set across two rooms
visitors will find a series of items recovered from the site -
torah scrolls, cutlery, coins and other keepsakes - as well
as a few period photographs illustrating life at the camp.
However, the real pull here is the scale model, an intricate
work which really brings the grounds to life - details here
include a zoo built for the enjoyment of the SS, a Disneystyle
stone tower and the neatly trimmed flower beds
past which Jews would have filed on their way to the gas
chambers. It’s a fascinating work, and one which provides
plenty of pause for thought.
Back outside, a trail of symbolic train tracks show the
route trains from Warsaw would have followed before
finally terminating at Treblinka platform. For the Jews
crammed inside the cattle wagons this represented the
last stop in their persecution. Then, directly up ahead,
comes the climax of the camp - marking the execution
grounds lie hundreds of jagged memorial stones, each
one inscribed with the name of a lost community. It’s
among these - to the left of your approach - you’ll find
the only stone dedicated to a person. That man is Janusz
Korczak, a pedagogue and author who famously turned
down safe passage from the ghetto in order to stay with
the orphaned children entrusted in his care. His most
famous work is the children’s tale King Matt the First (Król
Maciuś Pierwszy), the adventure story of a young king.
As well as telling the story of how the young king deals
with the challenges of power in a bygone age, it is also a
thinly veiled representation of historical events in Poland
and describes a number of the social reforms the young
king introduces, many targeting children and many of which
Korczak himself introduced at his orphanage. While some
of the language might be considered politically incorrect
90 years on it is a fascinating book and one that children
today can still enjoy immensely.
Marking the site of the gas chamber stands an overpowering
monument designed by Franciszek Duszenki, a message in
front of it simply stating: “Never Again.” It’s an eerie experience,
and the sense of evil palpable. However, there is also
more. Unknown to many, a second camp also functioned
at Treblinka, a labour camp primarily populated by Poles.
Continuing through the route cut through the forest, a stony
path leads past a concrete guard bunker before culminating
at the vast gravel pit where up to 2,000 Poles were forced into
back breaking work. In the field further on concrete flooring
and some foundations mark the outline of former prisoner
barracks, while a number of crosses denote what was once
the execution grounds. Ultimately haunting, Treblinka is a
must see for anyone with a passing interest in modern history
- absent are the endless exhibits of Auschwitz, yet even
without these this place has a high impact factor which will
leave visitors silent.
December 2012 - January 2013
99

100 ŁAZIENKI WHAT ŁAZIENKI TO SEE
© Muzeum Łazienki Królewskie w Warszawie
Anyone who still thinks that Warsaw is a city of concrete and
cement has clearly never been to the city’s lung, the incomparable
Łazienki Park (G-4). Quite simply, this glorious, 17th
century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of the jewels
in Poland’s crown, which might explain why half of Warsaw
chooses to spend its summer Sundays here. Fear not though,
for so big is Łazienki that it never gives the impression of being
crowded, and even on the busiest of days you will always
be able to find a quiet, shady corner somewhere.
Belvedere Palace (Belweder) G-5, ul. Belwederska
56. Head next for the Belvedere Palace residence of the
Polish President from 1918 to 1995 (Presidents Aleksander
Kwaśniewski and Lech Kaczyński opting to live in the
Presidential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście) this is
once again the Warsaw residence of the Polish president
(now Bronisław Komorowski). Built in 1694 but thoroughly
remodelled in 1818, the building is predictably off limits. For
the best views of the palace and some outstanding photo
opportunities you should look at it from Al. Ujazdowskie: it is
a wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete with tympanium
and oversized Corinthian columns.
Chopin Monument & Temple of Sibyl (Pomnik
Chopina i Świątynia Diany) G-4. On entering the park
proper, make your first port of call the Chopin Monument,
sculpted by Witold Szymanowski and unveiled in 1926. It
depicts Chopin sitting right here in Łazienki, next to a willow
tree. The original sculpture was destroyed during WWII, and
the one we admire today went up in 1958. During the summer
impressive concerts take place around the statue almost
every Sunday. Almost hidden in the trees a few metres from
Chopin is the astonishing Temple of the Sibyl (closed to the
public), an 1820s replica Greek Temple built entirely of wood.
Look out too for a gaggle of other little buildings here such
as the Hermitage, the Egyptian Temple and the Water
Tower. None are currently open to the public.
Łazienki Park (Park Łazienkowski) G-4, ul. Agrykoli
1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienki-krolewskie.
pl. The name Łazienki means baths and is derived from the
park’s centrepiece and best-known attraction, the Palace on
the Island. The palace was originally built in the 17th century
as a private bathhouse for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski,
owner of the adjacent Ujazdów Castle and much of the surrounding
land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The
bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisław
August Poniatowski, in 1772 and converted into a private
residence (and taking the name Palace on the Island). It
was at this time that the grounds were formally laid out as
a private garden, most of the landscaping being carried out
to the designs of Karol Ludwig Agricola and Karol Schultz.
Today dotted with many palaces (big and small), summer
houses, pavilions, mansions, cafes, restaurants, lakes and
theatres, Łazienki offers much to see and to make the best
of it you should plan to spend a full day here.
One word of warning however before you pack a picnic and the
cricket set: Łazienki, for all its charms, is further evidence of the
fact that many Central Europeans have never quite grasped the
idea of what parks are actually for. With superbly kept grass at
every turn, perfect for picnics, pick up games of cricket, softball,
football or whatever else it is people get up to in parks in the
western world, Łazienki takes a very stern ‘look but don’t touch’
attitude when it comes to its lawns. If you don’t believe us, try
sitting on a Łazienki lawn and see what happens. That said, the
park has recently added two zones where you’re allowed to have
a picnic. Progress! Q Open from dawn till dusk.
Museum of Hunting and Horsemanship (Muzeum
Łowiectwa i Jeździectwa) H-4, ul. Szwoleżerów 9,
tel. (+48) 22 522 66 30, www.muzeum.warszawa.pl.
North of the Palace on the Island, the Museum of Hunting &
Horsemanship is worth a quick visit. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 3-8/2-5zł. Thu free. Y
© Muzeum Łazienki Królewskie w Warszawie
Getting there
Any number of buses stop in front of the park’s three
main entrances, on Al. Ujazdowskie, including Nos.
116, 166, 180 and 195. From the city centre however
perhaps the easiest way of reaching Łazienki is to take
a tram from Centrum to Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, and walk 100
metres along Bagatela to the park’s southern entrance,
in front of the Belvedere Palace. Orientation around the
park is relatively easy given the prominent placement of
maps and signs - in Polish and English - in key locations.
There is also a very good Łazienki complex map (again,
in Polish and English) which can be picked up for free from
the Palace on the Water or any of the museums in the
park. If you enter the park via any of the entrances on
Al. Ujazdowskie, chances are you will end up, willingly or
not, via some surprisingly hilly paths set with tall trees,
at the vast artificial lake in the park’s centre, straddled
by the magnificent Palace on the Island. In doing so
however, you risk missing out on a few treasures, so try
to circumnavigate the park instead.
While you can buy tickets for each Łazienki attraction
individually, you can also purchase a one-day ticket or
two-days combined ticket which offers single-access
to a chunk of the attractions (Ujazdowski Castle, The
Museum of Hunting and Horsemanship and the Botanical
Garden are not among them). A one-day ticket 20/10zł,
two-days tickets 25/15zł.
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Myślewicki Palace (Pałac Myślewicki) H-4, ul.
Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienkikrolewskie.pl.
Make sure you have time too for a guided
tour of the magnificent, semi-circular and recently restored
Myślewicki Palace. The residence of the king’s nephew,
Józef Poniatowski, the palace is very much ‘as was’ complete
with original murals, furniture and art. Q Open 09:00
- 16:00, Mon 11:00 - 16:00. Closed every last Mon of the
month. Admission 6/4zł. Thu free. Guided tours in English
70zł per group.
Palace on the Island (Pałac na Wyspie) G-4, ul.
Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienkikrolewskie.pl.
The Palace on the Island is Łazienki’s raison
d’etre. The palace - completed in 1683 to designs by Tylman
Gamerski - was originally a bathhouse, converted into a
residence in the late 1700s (after being bought by Stanisław
August Poniatowski). The palace is built on an artificial
island that divides the lake into two parts, and is connected
to the surrounding park by two colonnaded bridges. The
façades are unified by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its
two floors and are crowned by a balustrade that bears statues
of mythological figures. The northern façade is relieved
by a striking central portico, while the southern façade’s
deep central recess lies behind a screen of Corinthian
columns. Today a museum, almost all of the palace can
be visited, including the main reception room, Solomon’s
Hall, decorated in the most extravagant of Baroque styles
with a series of paintings depicting the History of Solomon.
They were executed for King Stanisław Augustus in 1791-93
by Marcello Bacciarelli and depicted the monarch himself
as the biblical king. Many of the king’s personal rooms are
also open to the public, set in their original context. To get
the best out of the palace we recommend taking one of
the excellent guided tours (call ahead to book such a tour).
Q Open 09:00 - 16:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Mon
11:00 -16:00. Closed every last Mon of the month. Admission
15/10zł. Thu free. Guides 100zł per group up to 25
people. To arrange guide call 22 50 60 028.
Theatre on the Island (Amfiteatr) G-4. Crossing the
tail of the serpentine lake, follow the path that leads along the
embankment until you hit the Amphitheatre, also known as
the Theatre on the Island. Built to resemble the amphitheatre
at Herculaneum, the theatre hosts productions throughout
the summer, though unless you fancy seeing Henry V in Polish
these will hold little interest for foreign visitors. (There
are exceptions: ballet and contemporary dance sometimes
get put on here).
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/
CSW) (Centrum Sztuki Współczesnej Zamek
Ujazdowski) G-4, ul. Jazdów 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 64
08, www.csw.art.pl. A castle of some description has
been on found on this site since the time of the Masovian
Dukes (1300s), but the Ujazdowski Castle we see today
was completed in a baroque style in 1730 for Stanisław
Herakliusz Lubomirski (it was his bathhouse that later
became the Palace on the Island and gave Łazienki park
its name). Ujazdowski survived two centuries before being
gutted by fire during WWII, and was indeed lucky to
escape total destruction: the retreating Nazis actually tried
to blow it to pieces, as they did a number of Łazienki’s
finest buildings. But - as is so often the case - what the
Nazis couldn’t do the communists could, and though the
original walls and foundations remained structurally sound
in the 1950s Poland’s communist authorities decided to
tear down the shell of the building and place a military
theatre on the site. Common sense prevailed however, and
the 1970s saw Ujazdowski rebuilt to its original plans. It
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today plays host to three large exhibition halls dedicated
to showcasing the very best of contemporary art inside;
find a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, featuring
the work of Poland’s leading contemporary artists
here. Worthy and undoubtedly necessary, the gallery
also houses a very good bookshop and a café, which has
a terrace whose views over the park, Warsaw and what
appears to be half of Poland are jaw dropping. One not
to miss. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed
Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
12/6zł, Thu free.
White House & Orangery (Biały Dom i Stara
Pomarańczarnia) G-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22
506 01 01, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Not quite
as grand as the Belvedere but equally impressive is the
little White House a gorgeous summer house built in
1774 for the king’s sisters which displays a fine collection
of period furniture and decorations (will is currently
closed during the winter season). A few steps away is
the impressive Old Orangery, one of very few surviving
court theatres in the world. It dates from 1774 and is still
used today to host chamber concerts, as well as being a
popular wedding venue for Warsaw’s wealthy. Part of the
building houses a museum of sculpture. From here head
back past the White House, resist the temptation to head
straight for the Palace on the Island and instead head
south, towards the New Orangery. Built in cast iron and
glass it was designed by Józef Orłowski and opened in
1861. It is home to the upmarket Belvedere restaurant,
which is currently closed for renovations. Q Open 09:00
- 16:00, Mon 11:00 - 16:00. Closed every last Mon of
the month. Admission 10/5zł. Thu free. Guided tours in
English 70zł per group.
© Muzeum Łazienki Królewskie w Warszawie
December 2012 - January 2013
101

102 WILANÓW
WHAT WILANÓW TO SEE
© The Wilanów Palace Museum, author: Magdalena Kulpa
It is very easy to visit Warsaw and imagine its history
stretches no further back than the communist post-war
era and that of WWII when the city was effectively wiped
from the map of Europe. But that would be to only understand
a small part of this city’s and country’s history. The
nation’s capital has been in Warsaw since the late 16th
century and at one time was the centre of the burgeoning
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, a union which lasted over
200 years and whose territory at once stretched from the
Baltic to the Black Sea (incorporating much of modern day
Poland, Ukraine, Belarus and the Baltic States). With so
much of pre-war Warsaw destroyed there are few places
to experience what this must have been like more than at
Wilanow’s palace and gardens.
The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers
applied to this splendid late 17th-century Palace which can
be found in the Warsaw district of Wilanów, 10 kilometres
south of the city centre. Essential visiting for all who come to
soak up the capital’s lavish culture and wish to understand
a little more about ancient Poland, Wilanów is more than
just a Palace - it represents an era from which much has
been lost. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of
buildings represent the height of Polish Baroque and this is
one of Poland’s greatest national treasures.The sprawling
45-hectare setting is also full of things to do, from visiting
the superb Poster Museum next door to renting a rowing
boat on the Palace’s lake. If the weather’s good and you’ve
got time to spare, it’s easy to spend an entire and thoroughly
rewarding day here.
History
Wilanów gets its name from the Warsaw borough in which
Wilanów Palace is located. First mentioned in the 13th
century as Milanów, the then tiny village changed hands
several times before being bought in the 17th century by
the family of Stanisław Leszczyński. Leszczyński began
building a Palace here, but the project was halted by the
Deluge and the subsequent capture and plundering of the
region by the Swedes. In 1676 the abandoned Milanów was
bought by King Jan III Sobieski looking for a country retreat
away from Warsaw, and he ordered a new Palace to be built
on the site. Originally called Villa Nova (New Village), the
name was soon polonised to the one it’s known by today.
A brick manor house was built in 1680, expanding in two
stages into a palace during the years 1681-1696 under
the supervision of Agostino Locci to his own design. It is
within the central part of the palace where you will see the
living quarters of King Jan III Sobieski and his French queen
consort, Marie (or Marysieńka as she was affectionately
called by Sobieski and still is by Poles today) in what is the
original part of the palace.
After Jan III Sobieski’s death in 1696, his widow returned
to France and the palace through their sons became the
property of Elzbieta Sieniawska. She continued to develop
the palace most notably the two wings which were built in the
years 1720-1729. Sieniawska, like many of the subsequent
owners, honoured Sobieski by conserving much of the palace
in memory of the victorious king. It was to become a royal residence
again in the early 1730s during the reign of August II the
Strong. Over the next two hundred years the palace became
the property of a succession of the most important Polish
families including the Czartoryskis, Lubomirskis, Potockis
and Branickis and each left their mark as they expanded and
developed the property. One of its most enlightened residents
was Stanislaw Kostka Potocki who in the early 19th century,
at a time when Poland as a country ceased to exist because
of the Russian/Prussian/Austrian partition, made his collection
of art and access to the royal apartments of King Jan III
Sobieski available to the public. Keep an eye out for the words
‘Cunctis patet ingressus’ on the palace floor signifying that
the palace and its collection were ‘open to all’.
The palace avoided the fate of the city of Warsaw and survived
the war virtually intact although its collections were
seriously looted. Confiscated by Poland’s post-war Communist
government, Wilanów became part of the National
Museum in Warsaw and was painstakingly renovated during
the 1950s and early 1960s, opening its doors to the public
again in 1962. Today it is the subject of a 32 million zloty
revitalisation program which is overseeing conservation
work in the royal apartments and archaeological research
of the area. The gardens have also recently been restored
to the splendour they enjoyed during Jan III Sobieski’s time.
Getting there
The Palace and Gardens at Wilanow can be reached best
of all by bus or taxi directly from the city centre. The city’s
metro system does run to a stop called Wilanowska but
this is about 5km from the palace and will involve taking
a bus from outside of the station.
By bus. From Old Town:
From (B-2) pl. Zamkowy take buses 116 or 180 Mon-Fri.
Journey takes about 30 minutes.
From Pl. Trzech Krzyży:
From (C-4) Pl. Trzech Krzyży take buses 116, 180 or
E-2. Journey takes about 25 minutes. The bus stops
can be found at the southern end of the square on Al.
Ujazdowskie.
From the centre:
From (B-4) outside the Cepelia store on Marszalkowska
take bus 519.
From Warszawa Centralna train station:
Take bus 130 or 700 from the southbound stop on (A-4)
ul. Chałubińskiego. Journey takes about 30 minutes.
All buses stop directly outside the palace gates.
By Taxi. At around 50-55zł with a recommended
company such as Sawa Taxi (tel. 22 644 44 44), a taxi
ride to Wilanów is something of a false economy, taking
more or less the same time as the bus to get there. If
you prefer the comfort and privacy of your own car then
also look for ELE taxis parked around the city, including
outside the (A/B-4) main train station.
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Lake & Island. There’s also a natural lake found behind the
Palace, where gondolas complete with gondoliers and rowing
boats can be hired for leisurely trips on the water beginning
in May (weather permitting). A trip here will reward you with
a glimpse of Enrico Marconi’s strange, Gothic-inspired pump
room, and an adventure to the Park’s island reveals a monument
to the Polish soldier, Captain Ksawery Burski, who served
in the army of the Duchy of Warsaw and who gave his life at
Wilanów fighting the Austrians at the Battle of Raszyn in 1809.
Park & Gardens. The 45 hectares that make up Wilanów
Park grew over the centuries according to the particular
fancies of its owners. The Park’s present form dates from
the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during
the 1950s, overseen by the architect and historian Professor
Gerard Ciołek (1909-1966). Made up of a series of
individual gardens, the Park includes a two-level Baroque
garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English
landscaped park and the so called English-Chinese landscape
park. The nearby Orangery and its garden serves as
a splendid venue for outdoor classical music concerts during
the summer season. The park near the Orangery, East, North
and Rose gardens and their associated architecture were
recently the subject of a major revitalisation program and
during work on the Baroque garden a series of archaeological
digs discovered several artefacts, including ceramics dating
from the 12th century. Now the gardens have been restored
to their appearance during the time of King Jan III Sobieski. Q
Park open 09:00 till dusk. Note that the palace and gardens
are closed to the public from December 17th until the first
week of January. Admission 5/3zł, Thu free.
Poster Museum (Muzeum Plakatu) ul. S. K. Potockiego
10/16, tel. (+48) 22 842 48 48, www.postermuseum.pl.
Housed inside the Palace’s former indoor
riding area, the Poster Museum features two large halls full
of wonderful posters from all over the world. At over 55,000
pieces, this is reportedly the largest poster collection to be
found anywhere. The museum focuses on the artistic merits
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
The Wilanów Palace Museum
© The Wilanów Palace Museum,
author: Zbigniew Reszka
The Wilanów Palace Museum (Pałac w
Wilanowie) ul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22
842 81 01, www.wilanow-palac.pl. The first museum at
Wilanów was opened in 1805 by the palace’s owner at the
time, Stanisław Kostka Potocki. His aim was to help educate
society and protect national identity and knowledge at a
time when Poland had ceased to exist. This tradition was
maintained by his son August and over two hundred years
on these values are still key to the museum’s role.
The current museum, which takes up a substantial portion
of the Palace’s interior, comes in two parts. Having bought
your ticket in the ticket office near the gate, enter the wing
on the right and descend the stairs. There you will have to
deposit your coat and place shoe covers on your shoes. It
is recommended that you pick up an audio guide, which is
available in a number of languages as well as English, as
there is very little description throughout the museum -
particularly in the Polish portrait gallery. Heading through
a small room containing some old royal coaches, head up
the stairs into the first part of the museum - The Polish
Portrait Gallery - featuring portraits from the 16th to 19th
century. Wander through room after room of portraits of
the rich and the powerful including some fascinating Polish
coffin portraits of important figures. If portraits are your
thing you will find this very interesting although the lack
of description and in some cases even the name of the
people portrayed is rather frustrating.
The tour leads you around the top of the house and then downstairs
once more where you will find yourself in the residence of
the palace. Featuring suits of armour, Etruscan vases, a room
featuring magnificent frescoes uncovered during restoration
work after the war, residential rooms, an exceedingly rare
18th-century glass grandfather clock and even a private chapel
there is a lot to admire. There are English language cards
available in most rooms which give you a basic description of
what to look for. The central part of the lower floor is the most
impressive. It is here that you will find the private apartments
of King Jan III Sobieski and his wife while the wings house the
apartments of the subsequent owners of the palace. There
are some lavish touches to be seen throughout the lower level
and it may be of interest that the leadership of communist
Poland would often use the palace to accommodate foreign
dignitaries. Jimmy Carter once stayed here, while one of the
beds had to be especially adapted to sleep the rather tall
Charles de Gaulle when he visited. It is quite easy to spend a
couple of hours wandering around the palace but be warned
that it tends to fill with schoolchildren during the week and
tourists at the weekends so there’s not really a best time to
visit. Q Open 09:30 - 16:00, Sun 10:30 - 16:00. Closed Tue.
Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Note that the palace and
gardens are closed from December 17 until the first week of
January. Admission 20/15zł, Sun free. Audioguide 12zł.
December 2012 - January 2013
103

104
WILANÓW
Jan III Sobieski
Jan Sobieski was born in
Olesko near Lwow (now
Ukrainian Lviv) in 1629.
His father was a Polish-
Lithuanian nobleman who
ensured young Jan and
his brother received a first
class education and they
both went onto study at the Jagiellonian University in Krakow
before Jan travelled abroad. He studied military history and
tactics including significantly as it would turn out in Turkey
(as an envoy of King Jan II Casimir) where he learned the
Tartar language in the 1650s. Sobieski also spoke French,
German and Italian and during this time met major European
political figures including Louis II deBourbon, William of
Orange and Charles II, where it is clear that he learnt the
value of diplomacy as well as military might.
Jan Sobieski would have a lifelong love of France thanks
in part to his French wife Marie (or Marysienka as he
fondly named her) whom he married in 1665 and fathered
14 children with (of whom 8 survived).
Having returned to Poland Sobieski went on to serve with
distinction in the Battle of Warsaw (1656), where he led a
Tartar cavalry regiment, and the Polish Swedish wars (1655-
1660) among others. In 1666 he sided with the king Michał
Korybut Wiśniowiecki during the Lubormirski rebellion and
added another major victory to his list by defeating the Turks
at the Battle of Chocim in 1673. It was this victory allied to
his reputation as a strong leader, astute military tactician
and a canny political knack that would result in him being
elected as Polish King the following year, in 1674.
Sobieski inherited a nation virtually penniless from 50
years of continuous war and set about stabilising the
country’s borders through treaties and strategic battles.
It is for this combination of wisdom and bravery that he
is well remembered today.
Sobieski’s greatest moment, however, was to come in
1683. Having marched through most of the Balkans a
vast Turkish army was massed on the outskirts of Vienna
threatening to overwhelm the Christian world. Led by
King Jan III Sobieski a joint Polish/German/Austrian army
scored a magnificent victory in a daylong battle on 12
September 1683 vanquishing the Turks. Sobieski led a
charge of Polish hussars breaking the opposition lines
and sending the Turks into disarray. Sobieski entered
the abandoned tent of the Turkish commander Kara
Mustapha in the early evening signifying victory and parts
of that tent are today on display within Wilanow Palace.
The Turks were to name Sobieski ‘The Lion of Lechistan’
(Lechistan being an ancient name of Poland) while
Danzig astronomer Johannes Hevelius would name a
newly discovered constellation Scutum Sobiescianum
(Sobieski’s Shield) after him, quite an accolade for a still
living, non-astronomer as was Sobieski.
The victory not only saved Christendom (Sobieski was
described as the saviour of European Christendom by
the Pope) but also made a lasting impact on European
food culture. According to urban legend pastries were created
baked in a shape designed to resemble Sobieski’s
stirrups (beugel in Austrian), which supposedly evolved
to become the bagels we enjoy today.
of the posters rather than their documentary value and plays
host to a cycle of temporary events and exhibitions. As a
contrast to the historic palace and collection of paintings next
door, this makes for interesting additional place to visit while
in Wilanów. You can also find many of the best examples of
the posters reproduced into postcards which can be bought
from the museum shop along with books and catalogues on
the various prints and exhibits. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Mon
12:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 10/7zł, Mon free.
Potocki Mausoleum (Mauzoleum Potockich)
Wilanów Park. A tomb dedicated to Stanisław Kostka Potocki
and his wife Aleksandra (nee Lubomirska) Potocka by
their son Aleksander. Designed in 1834 by Henryk Marconi
and built between 1834-1836 by Jakub Tatarkiewicz and
Konstanty Hegl, the mausoleum is made entirely of sandstone.
It is located in the park leading to Wilanów Palace and
consists of a Neo-Gothic canopy with lions holding shields
bearing the crests of the Potocki and Lubomirski families
in each corner. On the sarcophagus are the figures of the
deceased and around the sides symbols of their virtues and
interests are displayed.
SD Gallery (Galeria SD) ul. S. K. Potockiego 22,
tel. (+48) 783 40 77 70, www.galeriasd.pl. This small
collection of modern Polish art close to St. Anne’s Church
includes paintings and sculptures by many of the country’s
leading contemporary artists. Featuring some truly impressive
pieces of art, most of the work on display is available
for sale. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Admission free.
St. Anne’s Church (Kościół Św. Anny) ul. Kolegiacka
1, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www.parafiawilanow.
pl. A church on this site dates back to the 14th century when
the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here. This was
replaced by a Gothic wooden construction and graveyard
in the 16th century and it wasn’t replaced with a brick one
until well after the time of Jan III Sobieski in 1772. The new
church was called St. Anne’s and was founded by Prince
August Adam Czartoryski to a design by Jan Kotelnicki.
Czartoryski’s grand-daughter, Aleksandra Lubormirska
Potocka, decorated the church with art in the period 1799-
1831, the most precious of which is the Annunciation to the
Virgin Mary in the main altar.
Between 1857 and 1870, Aleksandra’s son August and his
wife extend the church to a design by Henri Marconi. The
church gets a Neo-Renaissance look and the marvellous
dome is added. In the gardens surrounding the church building
you will find terracotta shrines marking the fourteen Stations
of the Cross while within the church, in the crypt under
the chapel, are the tombs of the Potocki family.
The church suffered damage during both world wars and was
even used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who also
looted and damaged it. The church bells dating from 1723
and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local people
who hid them and these are now housed in the newly built
Third Millenium Tower.
The church is a particularly beautiful one to visit nowadays
thanks in no small part to the work of the parish priest
Bogusław Bijak and it is protected as part of a complex of
parks, buildings and original roads running into the centre
of the city as a national Historic Memorial. QOpen 06:30 -
17:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:00. No visiting during mass please.
Where to eat
China Garden ul. Kazachska 1. See Restaurants.
Restauracja Wilanów ul. S. K. Potockiego 27. See
Restaurants.
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
2010 saw the country toast Chopin with champagne;
Poland’s greatest composer, and Warsaw’s favourite son,
a man whose lent his name to everything from vodka to
airports (and even an asteroid). For 2010 marked the 200th
anniversary of Fryderyk Chopin’s birth and saw the city
celebrate his life with amongst other things the opening of
a fabulous new museum.
Chopin - Life & Times
And what a life it was. Of course, in the spirit of all the greats
there’s a considerable element of mystery surrounding the
man. Say it very, very quietly, but there’s even dispute as
to his birthday and parentage. Most sources agree he was
born on February 22, 1810, yet some claim his family could
be found celebrating his birth on March 1. At the time of his
death only Jane Stirling, his Scottish benefactor, claimed to
know the truth, and this she wrote on a piece of paper before
burying it with him. Furthermore, while most accept he was
the son of a French expatriate some experts argue he was
the bastard child of an unnamed aristocrat. The truth has
been lost to time.
One thing we can be certain of, and that’s his birthplace -
the town of Żelazowa Wola fifty kilometres west of Warsaw.
However, he stayed there for just a year, with the family
moving to Warsaw in 1811 after his ‘father’, a man who’d
fought the Russians in the Napoleonic Wars, found a job as
a French tutor.
By all accounts he was a prodigy from the offing. The young
Frederic started learning piano at the age of four, and by the
age of eight had already performed at what is now the Presidential
Palace. Yet in spite of his obvious talents applications
for a state grant were repeatedly refused. Nevertheless, his
childhood was happy, and the gingerbread eating Frederic
received gushing reviews in local columns and press.
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
CHOPIN
A diligent student he was educated at home for the first 13
years, before attending Warsaw’s Lyceum, and then the Warsaw
Music Conservatory. He continued to blossom under its director,
the Polish composer Joseph Elsner, who was wowed by Chopin’s
musical mastery. He graduated from the Conservatory in 1829,
the same year he was to meet Konstancha Gładkowska, and his
unrequited love for her inspired many of his early compositions.
Within three weeks of graduation he made a sparkling foreign
debut in Vienna, before returning to Poland to perform the
premier of his Piano Concerto in F minor. Already recognised
as an amazing talent, Chopin started showing the signs of
illness that would continue to blight the rest of his life. A keen
traveller (on record is a tour of Europe undertaken in 1826 during
which he visited Dresden, Kraków, Prague and numerous
other places as a tourist), Chopin set off to play in Vienna in
November 1830, following a farewell party in a Wola tavern.
Unbeknownst to him at the time, that was to be his last taste
of Warsaw. By the end of the month Poland had risen in rebellion
against the ruling Russians. Dissuaded from joining the
uprising himself Chopin drew inspiration from events to write
his masterpiece, Revolution. Passages of his Stuttgart diary
record his torment: “Oh God, do you exist? Or are you yourself a
Muscovite!” Choosing to stay in exile Chopin settled in playboy
Paris where he was welcomed by Polish émigrés, as well as
upcoming composers and high society. His friends numbered
Berlioz, Bellini (who he is buried next to) and Mendelssohn, as
well as high profile Poles like the uncrowned King, Prince Adam
Czartoryski and bard Adam Mickiewicz, while his dapper dress
and natural charms attracted a string of adoring females.
Drawing on his Polish upbringing the 1830s saw Chopin enjoy an
impressively productive spell, composing a series of acclaimed
polonaises and mazurkas. Ill health followed him however, so
much so that when he was taken ill on a trip to meet his parents
in 1835 some Polish scandal sheets reported him dead.
He wasn’t, and the defining point of his life was to occur two
years later when he met the controversial author George
Sand (yes, that’s a woman). His first impression is recorded
as being surprisingly acid: ‘what an unpleasant woman’, he is
known to have commented. Already secretly engaged to a 17
year old Polish girl, how Chopin’s life would have evolved if he
had never seen Sand again is open to speculation. Instead he
embarked on a torrid nine year affair with this classic ‘scarlet
woman’, with one stage of their rocky relationship marked by
a stint in an abandoned monastery on the island of Mallorca.
Racked with chronic lung problems and a near permanent
cough, the faltering affair span out of control when Sand, a
loose-moraled man-killer, serialised the novel Lucretia Floriani
in a Paris newspaper in 1846. The boorish, asexual antihero is
commonly recognized as being a parody of Chopin. Broke, ill and
now broken-hearted, Chopin led an increasingly miserable and
secluded life. He finally passed away in his Paris apartment aged
just 39 - though just like his birth, his death is equally contentious;
some believe tuberculosis as the cause of death, others
a malady such as emphysema or cystic fibrosis. If you believe
the stories he carried a lock of Sand’s hair till the day he died
(though by the same token he is also alleged to have carried an
urn of Polish soil). Buried in Pere-Lachaise cemetery in Paris, on
his insistence his body was cut open (he was petrified of being
buried alive) and his heart later interned in a pillar of Warsaw’s
Kościół Świętego Krzyża. His funeral was as weird as his life,
delayed for two weeks while church authorities debated whether
to grant his wish and allow Mozart’s Requiem to be sung at his
funeral (the point of contention being the presence of female
singers). Regarded as the pinnacle of the Romantic style his
music and legend survive to this day.
December 2012 - January 2013
105

CHOPIN CHOPIN
106 107
Fryderyk Chopin Museum
Fryderyk Chopin Museum (Muzeum Fryderyka
Chopina) C-3, ul. Okólnik 1, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51,
www.chopin.museum. The most anticipated museum
opening in Poland since the 2004 launch of the Uprising
Museum, the Fryderyk Chopin Museum is a jaw-dropping
venue if you’ve had previous experience of Polish museums.
Touted as one of the most high tech in Europe the museum
officially opened in the spring of 2010 to help mark the
200th anniversary of one of Poland’s most famous sons.
Over 81 million zlotys were siphoned from council coffers
to see this project realized, and the result is an amazing
space designed by Grzegory and Partnerzy and fitted out
by Migliore&Servetto of Milan. Taking up four floors the
museum features an interactive style and shares in the life
of Chopin from start to finish leaving absolutely no detail
out. Among the 5,000 exhibits are a lock of hair, his school
exercise books, a sweet box, a gold watch presented to
the ten year old Frederic by an admiring Italian singer and
the passport he used to enter England. So comprehensive
is the collection it even features the last letter he wrote
to his family and dried flowers from his deathbed. Also, of
course, are several paintings and sculptures (including
his death mask), and a recreation of his Paris drawing
room and even an intriguing section on the women who
made the man. And while there’s one small room of the
museum aimed at children, the other 95 percent of this
epic exhibition will probably have them whining to leave.
However, what really revolutionizes this museum is the
way your route is conducted. Aside from an avalanche of
e-books, audio-visuals, music games and touchscreen
options, the museum allows visitors to ‘adapt their trip
to their particular circumstances’. Put simply those entering
can choose exactly what they want to see, and how
much they want to know about it. Even better are the
micro-chipped tickets that can be swiped along different
interactive exhibits to allow the visitor to hear music,
stories or watch a film. One area that was particularly
popular is the musical Twister game, which had normally
stoic middle-aged tourists leaping from spot to spot as
music played. Mr Chopin, welcome to the 21st century.
As for the building, that’s worth getting to know as well.
Located in the Ostrogski Palace the structure housing the
museum is something of a Warsaw landmark, and was
originally designed by Tylman van Gameren. In the past it’s
been home to everything from a Napoleonic military hospital
to the riotous Morgan’s Pub, and its catacombs are said to
be home of the legendary Golden Duck; a princess charmed
by the devil before being transformed into a beaked amphibian.
QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 60
minutes before closing. Admission 22/13zł, family ticket
62zł, Tue free. Number of visitors is restricted, so it is
advisable to reserve tickets in advance online.
What to See
The Chopin Family Drawing Room C-3, ul. Krakowskie
Przedmieście 5, tel. (+48) 22 320 02 75,
www.chopin.museum. The young Chopin hopped around
three separate residences in Warsaw, though only one
will be of use to visitors. Saski Palace - where his father
worked as a tutor - was in the process of being rebuilt (work
now halted and temporarily abandoned), while Kazimierzowski
Palace is closed off to visitors as part of Warsaw
University - a plaque on the right wing commemorates his
fleeting presence. Instead pay a visit to Krasiński Palace
(formerly Czapski Palace) on Krakowskie Przedmieście,
a place Chopin himself described as his ‘refuge’. Reconstructed
in 1960 and opened to the public in 1969 none
of the original furnishings survived the war, though the
period furniture on display has been faithfully assembled
to recreate his drawing room as seen in an Antoni Kolberg
painting made in 1832. Chopin lived and entertained here
from 1827 until his last day in Poland, and today some of
the antiques on display include a writing desk owned by his
elder sister and a pianoforte dating from 1830, as well as
paintings of his mother, sister and tutor. Another pianoforte
on show was once allegedly used by Franz Liszt. That’s not
the only famous connection - poet Cyprian Norwid attended
school in this building. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
3/2zł, Wed free. Y
Holy Cross Church (Kościół Św. Krzyża) C-3,
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, tel. (+48) 22 826
89 10, www.swkrzyz.pl. No Chopinologist can leave
Warsaw without first visiting the final resting place of
his heart (the rest of him being in Paris’ famous Père
Lachaise cemetery). Added to the church in 1882 his
heart was sealed in an urn and then placed behind a
tablet bearing his likeness specially carved by Leonardo
Marconi. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00. No
visiting during mass please.
Łazienki Park. Our youthful cherry-cheeked hero frequently
gave concerts in the Belvedere Palace (G-5, ul.
Belwederska 52), then the stamping ground of the Russian
aristocracy. It was here he played for the Tsar’s brother, Great
Prince Konstanty, whose numerous duties included being the
commander-in-chief of the Polish Army. So taken was he by
Chopin’s skills that he persuaded him to pen a march to be
played during military parades.
Elsewhere in Łazienki don’t dare miss a visit to the art
nouveau Chopin Monument (G-4) next to the Botanical
Garden. Set in the midst of a rose garden it was erected
in 1926, the work of acclaimed sculptor Wacław Szymankowski.
As part of the Nazi brutalization of Warsaw
it was dynamited by German busybodies on May 31,
1940. The following day an unknown patriot had placed
a placard on the smouldering ruin declaring: ‘I don’t
know who destroyed me, but I know why; so I don’t
play the funeral march for your leader’. A plaster-cast
of the original model allowed the statue to be rebuilt
and a faithful reconstruction was unveiled in 1958. An
identical replica can be found at Japan’s Hamamatsu
Academy of Music.
Augsburg Evangelical Church of the Holy Trinity
(Kościół Św. Trójcy) B-3, Pl. Małachowskiego 1, tel.
(+48) 22 556 46 60, www.trojca.waw.pl. In 1825 Chopin
once more performed for the Russians, this time for the Tsar
himself who in return presented Chopin with a diamond ring.
Q Open by prior arrangement.
Church of the Nuns of the Visitation C-3, ul.
Krakowskie Przedmieście 34, tel. (+48) 22 826 65
85, www.wizytki.waw.pl. Visit the church that Chopin
attended in his youth by popping into this baroque beauty.
Pride of place goes to the original organ which our man
himself played during a part time stint as a school organist.
A plaque outside confirms the Chopin connection: ‘In honour
of Fryderyk Chopin, who played on the organ in this church as
a pupil of the Warsaw Lyceum in the years 1825-1826’. Q
Open 09:00 - 16:30, Mon 13:00 - 16:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00,
14:00 - 16:30. No visiting during mass please.
Chopin Monument (Pomnik Chopina) G-4, Łazienki
Park. Don’t dare miss a visit to the art nouveau Chopin Monument
(G-4) next to the Botanical Garden. Set in the midst of
a rose garden it was erected in 1926, the work of acclaimed
sculptor Wacław Szymankowski. As part of the Nazi brutalization
of Warsaw it was dynamited by German busybodies on May
31, 1940. The following day an unknown patriot had placed
a placard on the smoldering ruin declaring: ‘I don’t know who
destroyed me, but I know why; so I don’t play the funeral march
for your leader’. A plaster-cast of the original model allowed the
statue to be rebuilt and a reconstruction was unveiled in 1958.
Chopin Benches. The good city of Warsaw has devised
one more way to bring Chopin to the people, and that’s by way
of fifteen musical benches that have been placed at key sites
connected with his life. Made of cast iron and polished black
stone these benches, designed by Professor Jerzy Porebski,
feature a button which when pressed have been designed
to unleash a thirty second torrent of Chopin. They also come
equipped with a route map as well as brief explanations in Polish
and English as to the site’s relevance to Chopin. However, that’s
not all. These benches see Chopin go techno: each one comes
inscribed with a special code - take a pic on your phone, then
send it to the instructed number and you’ll be rewarded to free
access to Chopin melodies, facts, figures and photographs.
And the Rest
It didn’t have a Starbucks and it didn’t have Coffeeheaven,
but even back in those days Warsaw had a thriving café
culture. This wasn’t lost on Chopin who would frequent now
defunct venues such as Pod Kopciuszkiem and Dziurka on
ul. Miodowa. One venue that has survived is Honoratka,
named after it’s proprietor Honorata Zimerman, and a
particular favourite stomping ground of the composer. He
was also an avid reader, confessing to visiting the Brzezina
Bookstore (again, now gone) on Miodowa every day, as well
as stocking up on sheet music in Dal Trozza on Senatorska.
Elsewhere the building on the corner of ul. Kozia and Trębacka
formerly housed the Royal Post Office, and it’s here that Chopin
forwarded his luggage from before departing Poland for
what would prove to be his last time. Finally there’s Powązki
Cemetery, where his parents lie in plot 9-IV-1. Józef Elsner,
his mentor and teacher, can be found at plot 159-V-1.
Where to eat
Polka, Magda Gessler po prostu Żelazowa Wola 14,
tel. (+48) 46 863 21 68, www.restauracjapolka.pl. Set
in a modern manor house across from Chopin’s birthplace
is this classy venture by one of the country’s best known
celebrity chefs - Magda Gessler. The setting is beautiful and
features a summer terrace and grill for those warmer months.
The food is Polish with some nice touches at prices that
might surprise those who have eaten in city centre Gessler
restaurants and makes for an excellent end to an interesting
day outside of busy Warsaw. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (28-99zł). PTAUIEGSW
Żelazowa Wola
Żelazowa Wola - Birthplace Żelazowa Wola 15,
tel. (+48) 46 863 33 00, www.chopin.museum. True
enthusiasts are going to want to make the pilgrimage to
his place of birth, and a worthwhile trip it most certainly is.
The Chopin clan left for Warsaw in the autumn of 1810, but
even so Żelazowa Wola clearly held fond memories for the
family. Close friends with the neighbouring Skarbek family
the Chopins found themselves returning frequently for their
holidays, and we know for fact the composer spent Christmas
here in 1825 and New Year in 1826. The ZW manor
house which saw the birth of Chopin is thought to have been
built at the tail end of the 18th century, and came into the
ownership of Countess Ludwika Skarbek in 1801. Adam
Towiański, who resided there between 1859 and 1878,
was the first to raise the idea of turning the manor into a
place of memory, and he set about restoring the complex
to its Chopin-era glory. A change of ownership saw the
project stall for a decade and it was only in 1891 that work
was resumed on building a Chopin museum. Thwarted by
a lack of funds these efforts didn’t get much further than
the unveiling of a Chopin monument, and for the next couple
of decades work didn’t so much stall as die.
Poland regained her independence in 1918, and the
related surge in national pride and patriotism saw new
efforts to commemorate Chopin’s legacy. The building
was granted historic status and in 1928 the property
was purchased by a Sochaczew-based Chopin society.
Restoration on the buildings was initiated in 1930, as
were plans to landscape the gardens, and buoyed by donations
the curators started amassing a stack of Chopin
memorabilia, among them a Pleyel piano. Disaster struck
in the familiar form of the German army: the outbreak
of war in 1939 saw a German unit billeted here, and the
building was looted and damaged.
By the time the Chopin Institute was awarded trust of
the house in the late 1940s the house found itself in a
sorry state of rot. Working round the clock to restore
it Żelazowa Wola was re-opened to the public on the
centenary of his death in 1949.
Today no original fixtures and fittings remain, and even the
original layout has been altered somewhat. Even so, the
house has been filled with period keepsakes, instruments
and paintings, and visitors all attest to the haunting spirit
of Chopin that hangs in the rooms. Displays on view include
an early 19th century produced by Leszczyński of Warsaw,
portraits of Chopin and 19th century furniture in the Bierdermier
style. However, the bit that most will find themselves
drawn to is the ‘mother’s room’, the actual scene of Chopin’s
birth. Now a calm white room adorned with a decorative
bouquet this has become a real point of pilgrimage with a
reverential silence observed by all who visit.
Getting there:
Żelazowa Wola is 54km west of Warsaw and can be
reached by catching a mini-bus at ul. Marszałkowska
(next to Rossman) courtesy of www.motobuss.pl. Be
careful as some of these buses stop at Sochaczew and
not Żelazowa Wola. There is also this Plan B: take a train
to Sochaczew (journey time 40 minutes, tickets 13.80zł
- 17zł depending on the kind of train you take) and from
there jump on bus number 6 which terminates at Mokas
after stopping at Żelazowa Wola. This little adventure
should take a further twenty minutes.Q Open 09:00 -
17:00. Museum closed Mon (park open). Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/4zł for the park,
23/14zł for park and museum. Tue free.
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December 2012 - January 2013

108
COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE COPERNICUS SCIENCE WHAT CENTRE TO SEE
Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre
While the world’s attention was drawn towards the highlyvisible,
round-the-clock construction of Warsaw’s amazing
new stadium on the left bank of the Wisła, work was also
being carried out on the river’s right bank on a building
that might well outshine the stadium once the Euro 2012
hoopla has died down. Built on time and on budget (well,
just about), the Copernicus Science Centre (CSC) - - which
stands almost directly opposite the stadium along the
river - - looks set to become Warsaw’s top tourist attraction
for years to come.
Getting there
The centre can be found in the shadow of the Świętokrzyski
Bridge on the banks of the Wisła River. A journey to the CSC
from the centre of Warsaw should take around 10 minutes.
Buses 105, 118 and 128 will drop you at the Biblioteka
Uniwersytecka stop, requiring a short walk around the
corner to the unmissable building. Buses 102, 162 and
185 will drop you at the Pomnik Syreny stop with the CSC
clearly in sight. Alternatively visit the ‘About us’ section of
the English language website www.kopernik.org.pl, where
you can get directions by car, by bus, or by foot by typing
in your address.
Introduction
A rare example of European Union funding being used in
a genuinely visionary way, the CSC is many things, not
least (in the words of Poland’s Education Minister shortly
before the opening) an attempt to restate the case for
science and research in what can still be an intensely
and deeply religious country. In that sense, giving t he
centre the name of the man who did so much to end the
church’s monopoly of education in the first place is little
short of a masterstroke.
Not that Copernicus did it all his own way; in the aftermath of
the tragic death of Polish President Lech Kaczynski in April
2010 the president’s political party, PiS (Law & Justice), lobbied
heavily to have the CSC renamed for him. The request
was politely, respectfully, refused.
Given the stunning, futuristic sight - all glass and steel - - that
greets visitors at the €93 million (half of which came from the
EU, half of which came from the Polish taxpayer) CSC today,
it’s a little ironic that the building’s origins are slightly more
humble. The idea of creating the centre first took shape at
the informal Science Picnics - - outdoor science, culture
and art events aimed at the general public that have been
held in Warsaw’s Rynek Nowego Miasta since 1997. The
idea of the picnics (which were organised by Polskie Radio,
strangely enough) was to bring popular science to the
masses through handson experiments. Each year, as the
numbers of scientists, universities, schools and members
of the general public taking part grew, it became clear that
there was an expanding interest in science in Warsaw, while
the large numbers of foreign visitors who came to the events
suggested that there was an untapped market in the region
for hands-on scientific learning. Construction of the CSC was
the natural next step, though it took a number of years to
secure the site and funding.
Given the ad hoc Science Picnic origins of the CSC, it is no
surprise that the museum (if we can call it that) was opened
in a slightly ad hoc, it-will-be-all-right-eventually fashion. The
opening show, Wielki Wybuch (The Big Bang), directed by
Peter Greenaway and Saskia Boddeke, was a little underwhelming
(and at certain points quite bizarre), while visitors
to the centre in the first couple of weeks were greeted by an
annoyingly large number of ‘this exhibit is temporarily out of
order’ signs. Yet throughout 2011 as the CSC rolled out sections
of the museum to the public it quickly became clear that
this is unquestionably the very best science centre in Europe,
and today visitors can enjoy a fully completed attraction.
Visiting Today
Arriving at the main doors at the north end of the building,
you will be met by the centre’s very own Robothespian. A fully
programmable humanoid robot, the Robothespian was developed
in Britain by the Eden Project in Cornwall. He speaks,
interacts, mimics and performs, and visitors can prompt him
to make a number of sounds, speech and movements by the
adjacent control panel. This will keep the kids busy while you
queue at the central ticket desk where you will be given a set
of credit card-style entrance passes. You should keep hold
of these as not only do they allow you to enter and exit the
building throughout the day, but they will also become your
ID card as you move through the exhibitions, many of which
allow you to record your results (which are stored and then
emailed to you afterwards).
Passing through the barriers, the first display you come
to is a huge swinging ball. The ball swings backwards and
forwards, periodically knocking over mallets that strike a
bell as they fall. These bells are lined up around the swinging
ball in a circle and although the ball swings in a straight line
backwards and forwards, the knocking over of the mallets
proves that the earth is constantly, actually rotating.
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Getting in
Copernicus Science Centre (Centrum Nauki
Kopernik) G-2, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie
20, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.kopernik.org.pl.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Closed
Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Note that the
Planetarium has different opening hours. Open 09:30
- 19:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission
22/13-16zł, family ticket 57zł. (2adults+2children).
Use of the labs costs an additional 18/14zł. Note that
you must buy a separate ticket for the Planetarium.
Admission 18zł/11-14zł, family ticket 47zł.
(for young adults) on the ground floor, and Humans and the
Environment, LightZone and On the Move located upstairs.
Each area demonstrates a range of phenomenon by way of
experiments, button pressing, quizzes and in some cases
physical exertion with the aim of helping you to discover the
secrets of the world around us.
Not only will you learn an awful lot, but the place is great fun,
especially if you are (or are with) a child. There’s a genuine
flying carpet, you can pilot a spaceship, take a picture of your
own eye (and then try to recognise it among the others photographed
that day), discover who or what is living next to us
in a major city, get involved in some crime solving or - and this
was our favourite - try to outdo animals at their own game by
out-hanging an Orangutan or beating a hippo in a race at the
arena. There’s plenty to do and you can easily spend a whole
morning or afternoon there trying everything, particularly if
you stumble on a day free of the ever-present school groups.
Additional hands-on activities geared especially towards
teens can be found in the Re: generation Zone, where visitors
over 14 can experiment with psychology, sociology, economics
or biotechnology through 80 multimedia exhibits - we
swear we’ve never seen teens more effusive and excited
as they tried to identify a monkey’s emotions, or finish lyrics
to popular songs. There’s also four interactive labs dealing
with chemistry, biology, physics and robotics that offer
supervised experiments for kids over 13 (instructions are
in Polish however) and an outdoor Discovery Park filled with
installations lining the Wisła.
The attached Heavens of Copernicus planetarium adds
yet another option for visiting science buffs as it immerses
attendees in 20 million stars thanks to a giant spherical
screen that surrounds the 137 seats on all sides. The seven
different 40-minute films (which require heads ets for English)
Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre
Having admired this, the interactive exhibitions begin. First of
all, register your card with your name and email address at
one of the terminals so that you will be identified as you progress
through the CSC. You currently have over 350 experiments
to visit, spread over two floors and six areas: Roots of
Civilisation, Bzzz! (for preschool children) and RE:generation
Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
are geared towards different age ranges and interests - tots
will delight in the Sesame Street show “One World, One Sky”
while teens will prefer the more mysterious “Black Holes:
Journey into the Unknown.” Before each film is a 20-minute
live show (which is unfortunately only in Polish, though still
interesting due to the impressive venue) about the skies
over Warsaw that changes with the seasons.School groups
dominate the Planetarium’s seats during daytime hours,
and booking tickets in advance is highly recommended -
when we dropped in only one of the eight daily shows had
available space.
It’s easy to declare that the centre is well-worth a few hours of
your time and will impress you with its design and range of experiments.
Factor in the main floor cafeteria and the packed
Science Store (potentially the best spot for children’s gifts
in Warsaw) and it’s a one-stop day of fun. The staff is keen,
very helpful and English-speaking; we saw many interacting
happily with kids and helpfully controlling the chaos. If there
is one gripe we have it would concern the Robotics show,
which can be found inside the Roots of Civilisation section.
The 20-minute show we saw told an embarrassingly bad
story about a robot that wants to become human in order
to marry a princess, and used language that seemed slightly
out of reach for young children. The various accents can also
be baffling (one robot sounds like a drunken Sean Connery)
and the robots themselves are like stiff mannequins that
move back and forth on a small track. Completely skippable.
Considering the size and scope of this operation, one minor
flaw in an otherwise awe-inspiring complex is a feat unseen
in Warsaw. And if truth be told, it would have been very hard
to imagine such a potentially world-class visitor attraction
being built in this city just a few years ago. Yet here it is, which
ought to be worth an exhibit in and of itself about how the
impossible can become possible.
December 2012 - January 2013
109

110
LEISURE
Adrenaline Sports
Mr. Quad ul. Tysiąclecia 59a, Otwock, tel. (+48)
22 788 45 14, www.mrquad.pl. Q Open by prior
arrangement. 10 quads, 246zł per day (12 hrs) per
one quad.
Silt Paintball, tel. (+48) 503 41 41 75, www.paintball.silt.pl.
A minimum of ten people in a group generally
required so call in advance. Q 60zł per person, equipment
plus 200 shells.
Bike Rental
Veturilo, en.veturilo.waw.pl. Warsaw cements its bigcity
credentials with the arrival of its first city-wide bike
rental fleet in August, and the numbers are impressive.
With 57 stations spread throughout Warsaw, Wilanow,
Ursynow and Bielany offering 1,120 bikes there’s no question
you’ll be spotting the silvery fleet flying through the
city’s streets. And why not try one yourself? The system
is ridiculously easy: set up an account online (en.veturilo.
waw.pl is the English-language site) and pay the initial
10zł fee. Once you’re registered you can visit any of the
stations and select your ride, which has an individualized
code. Simply dial the enter your phone number, your PIN
and the bike’s code, and you’ll receive the number to unlock
the bicycle from the stand. Then you’re off! The first
20 minutes are free, and from there you pay 1zł for 21-60
minutes, 3zł for the second hour, 5zł for the third, and 7zł
for each hour after that up to 12 hours. There’s a 200zł
fee for exceeding 12 hours, and a whopping 2,000zł cost
for replacing a lost or damaged bike so behave yourself.
When you return the bike, which can be done at any of
the stations, you make another phone call confirming the
return and you’re finished.
Wygodny Rower C-3, Al. Jerozolimskie 4, tel. (+48)
888 94 99 49, www.wygodnyrower.pl. Choose from
two different styles of bicycles for cruising around the city.
A full day will cost 40zł, 24 hours is 50zł. Both require a
returnable deposit of 200zl. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
Bowling & Billiards
Arco Bowling Alley D-5, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej
1920r. 19, tel. (+48) 22 668 75 91, www.arco-bowling.
pl. Two floors, 32 lanes, restaurant and club. 80-150zł per
lane per hour, shoes and instructor included. QOpen 16:00
- 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
Hulakula Bowling Alley
C-2, ul. Dobra 56/66
(University Library), tel.
(+48) 22 552 74 00,
www.hulakula.com.pl.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Wed
12:00 - 01:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat
10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. 20-120zł per hour.
Shoes included.
Klub ArenA A-4, ul. Pańska 61, tel. (+48) 22 620
47 08, www.bilard.waw.pl. Billiards fans can take advantage
of Klub ArenA’s multiple pool tables as well as
access to foosball, darts, a well-stocked bar and plenty
of space for lounging. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 04:00.
Entertainment centres
Hulakula Leisure Centre C-2, ul. Dobra 56/66 (University
Library), tel. (+48) 22 552 74 00, www.hulakula.
com.pl. Includes a bowling alley, club, restaurant, pool hall,
climbing wall and indoor playground for children. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Wed 12:00 - 01:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri
12:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
Spin City ul. Powstańców Śląskich 126A (Cinema
City, Bemowo), tel. (+48) 22 560 42 42, www.spincity.
pl. Admission for bowling is 40-99zł per hour. Features a
bowling alley, a bar with pool tables and darts and a video
games area. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00.
Fitness & Gyms
Pure Health and Fitness A-4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote
Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22 379 77 77, www.purepoland.
com. Third floor of Złote Tarasy, with facilties including
gym, jacuzzi, sauna and solarium. QOpen 06:00 - 22:30,
Sat 08:00 - 22:30, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.
Ice Skating
“Arena” Ice rink A-3, Pl. Defilad 1 (in front of Palace of
Culture and Science), tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00, www.pkin.
pl. Skating is free of charge. Skate rental costs 7zł for the first hour
and 5zł for every subsequent hour. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. Open from December 5. Admission free.
Figlowisko Al. Komisji Edukacji Narodowej (Ursynów), tel.
(+48) 504 24 59 10, www.figlowisko.pl. Round the clock
skating at rink. Q Open 24hrs. Admission 10/8zł for one hour
plus a one-off skate hire price of 6zł. Every-other hour is free.
Torwar H-4, ul. Łazienkowska 6a, www.torwar.pl. Q Open
Thu 20:00 - 21:30, Sat 18:30 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 12:30, 18:30
- 20:00. From January open Thu 20:00 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 11:00
- 12:30, 18:30 - 20:00. Admission 12/8zł. Skate rental 7zł.
Outdoor Attractions & Parks
Zoo C-1, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41,
www.zoo.waw.pl. Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers
an area of 40 hectares and attracts some 500,000 visitors
each year. Four elephants, a family of seals and a lion
cub were added to the current collection of reptiles, birds
and tigers. Conditions have improved dramatically in recent
years, though a visit here will do little to change any opinions
you have on locking animals in cages. As with every major
Warsaw landmark, the zoo has plenty of war stories. It was
bombed at the beginning of the conflict and by 1945 all the
animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich,
eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan
Żabiński, became something of a hero; wounded during
the 1944 Uprising, Żabiński helped save countless lives by
sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo. The
zoo officially re-opened in 1949. Q Open 09:00 - 15:30, Sun
09:00 - 16:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission
18/13zł. Children under 3 years free.
Racquet Sports
City Sports Club G-6, ul. Merliniego 2, tel. (+48)
695 83 68 80, www.citysportsclub.pl. Located on ul.
Merliniego, they offer tennis courts (55-100zł/per hour),
lessons with an English-speaking instructor (45-160zł/per
hour), equipment rental (by prior arrangement) and social
lessons for expats. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00.
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Squash City Al. Jerozolimskie 179 (CH Blue City,
Ochota), tel. (+48) 22 499 64 66, www.squashcity.pl.
Nine air-conditioned courts. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 22:00. Admission 45-65zł.
Skiing
CSN Szczęśliwice ul. Drawska 22 (Ochota), tel.
(+48) 22 622 69 61, www.stok.wosir.waw.pl. Skiing
and snowboarding on an area of 35,000 sq/m. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 12-23zł per hour.
Sleigh Rides
Stajnia Agmaja ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 2 (Żoliborz),
tel. (+48) 722 95 01 86, www.agmaja.pl. One hour sleigh
rides for 6-8 people cost around 200zł. For additional fees
guests can add bonfires with food and mulled wine. Note
that you must book your sleigh ride one week in advance.
TKKF Ognisko “Podkowa” ul. Głogów 11, Podkowa
Leśna, tel. (+48) 22 758 94 26, www.tkkfpodkowa.
hg.pl. Small group sleigh rides (max 5 people) for 150zł per
group. For additional fees bonfires and food can be added.
Wilczeniec Country Club (Klub Wiejski Wilczeniec)
ul. Kościelna Droga 10, Łomianki, tel. (+48) 22 751 97
77, www.wilczeniec.pl. Sleigh rides available for groups of
8-9 for 250zł (smaller groups can be accomodated for the same
price) and 10-15 350zł. Fee includes tea and sausages during a
bonfire. There is also the possibility of other food and beverages
for additional fees. Sleigh rides typically last about one hour.
Spa & Beauty
Franck Provost C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 58a, tel. (+48)
22 826 81 01, www.franckprovost.pl. French-trained
English-speaking stylists offering unisex hair treatment
and styling from 100zł to 350zł. Manicure and pedicure also
available as well as cosmetic products by L’Oreal and Kerastase.
Also at ul. Puławska 25a (G-5), which has expanded
spa services like massage and microdermabrasion. QOpen
07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Sungate Beauty & Spa B-3, Pl.
Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. (+48)
517 01 28 80, www.spasungate.
pl. The menu of services available at
Sungate is staggering: from facials
and every imaginable type of massage
(shea butter to aromatherapy) to wax-
beauty & spa
ing and nailcare they have you covered
from head to foot. Package for couples, women and
just regular folks who like to indulge are also available.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
Swimming
Aquapark Wesolandia ul. Wspólna 4 (Wesoła), tel.
(+48) 22 773 91 91, www.wesolandia.pl. Includes a
junior swimming pool, Jacuzzi, slide, fitness centre. Length
25m, depth 1.1-1.8m. Q Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00
- 22:00. 12-17zł per hour. All day tickets 19-31zł.
Polna F-4, ul. Polna 7a, tel. (+48) 22 825 71 34, www.
osir-polna.pl. Includes a kids pool, sauna, Jacuzzi and water
slide. Length 25m, depth 1.25-1.8m. QOpen 06:30 - 21:30.
Admission 15/10zł per hour.
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
LEISURE
December 2012 - January 2013
111

112 ŁÓDŹ
BASICS
Łódź In Your Pocket
Łódź may look like it’s pronounced
Lodz, but it most certainly
isn’t. Think of it as Woodge,
and three hundred years ago a
visit here would have produced
the sight of little more than one
man and his dog. In terms of
age Łódź is one of the youngest
cities in the country, and a
direct product of the Industrial
Revolution. And while Łódź cannot
boast the twee charisma of
Prague and Kraków a scratch
Hollywood’s strangest
director and his love
affair with Lodz
Experience one of the
country’s treasured
traditions
of the surface rewards the intrepid traveller with a city
stuffed with wacky stories, dark history and some of the
countries finest after-dark venues – you’ll find them all
inside our 13th issue of Łódź In Your Pocket; Poland’s
first comprehensive English-language guide to the city.
Getting there
Lodz lies 140km south west of Warsaw and is easily accessed
by train. When modernization finishes Lodz will be
within an hour’s reach of Warsaw, but for the time being
journey time is around one hour and forty minutes, while they
continue to work on the new high speed link. If you’re travelling
from the capital you’ll need to book a ticket running to Łódź
Fabryczna train station. The city centre is directly across the
road from the main entrance: take the underpass and carry
on walking west and you’ll find yourself on the main street,
ulica Piotrkowska, within ten minutes. For longer journeys
taxis stand directly outside the main entrance, though travellers
should only use cabs that are clearly marked.
Some basics
Łódź first appeared in written records in 1332 under the
name of Łodzia and remained little more than a rural backwater
for the following centuries, with a population numbering
just 800 as late as the 16th century.
The birth of modern Łódź as we know it can be traced to 1820,
when statesman, philosopher and writer Stanisław Staszic began
a campaign to turn the Russian-controlled city into a centre
of manufacturing. The first cotton mill was opened in 1825
and by 1839 the first steam-powered factory in Poland and
Russia was officially christened. A massive influx of workers
from as far afield as Portugal, England and France flooded the
city, though the mainstay of the town’s population remained
Poles, Germans and Jews. Within a matter of decades Łódź
had grown into the biggest textile production centre in the
Russian Empire, during which time vast fortunes were made
and lost by the major industrialist families.
By the outbreak of WWI the town stood out as one of the
most densely populated cities on the planet with a population
of approximately 13,000 people per square kilometre.
But hard times were around the corner; the inter-war years
signaled an end to the town’s Golden Age, and the loss of
Russian and German economic markets led to strikes and
civil unrest that were to become a feature of inter-war Łódź.
Things were about to get worse: the outbreak of WWII saw
the city annexed into The Third Reich.
The following six years of occupation left the population
decimated with 120,000 Poles killed, and an estimated
300,000 Jews perishing in what was to become known as
the Litzmannstadt ghetto. Following the war, and with much
of Warsaw in ruins, Łódź was used as Poland’s temporary
capital until 1948. The wholesale war-time destruction of
Warsaw also saw many of Poland’s eminent artists and
cultural institutes decamp to the nearest big city; that city
was Łódż, and today the town can boast a rich cultural
heritage, with Poland’s leading film school, one of the most
important modern art galleries in Europe, and an exciting
underground culture.
Today Łódź is a city slowly rediscovering itself, growing in
confidence and coming to terms with its patchy history.
Overlooked by many visitors to Poland, this is a city full of
hidden charms: from the awesome palaces that belonged to
the hyper-rich industrialists who made the city, to Europe’s
longest pedestrian street (Piotrkowksa) to the largest
municipal park in Europe. You’ll find everything you need to
know about the city in our print guide to Łódź, as well as our
full content online at www.inyourpocket.com.
Manufaktura
How many times have you heard a shopping centre call itself
‘More than a shopping centre?’ In the case of Manufaktura, for
once the hyperbole is entirely justified. For this is indeed more
than a shopping centre. In fact, we really shouldn’t be calling
it a shopping centre at all. Covering a space of 150,000m 2
Manufaktura does of course feature a mall with endless
shopping opportunities, but that would not tell the full story.
Manufaktura today is the result of Poland’s largest
renovation project since the reconstruction of Warsaw’s
Old Town in the 1950s. Originally a series of factories that
were constructed in the latter part of the 19th century the
restoration of the old factories quite simply has to be seen to
be believed. Enter through the Poznański gate, where workers
used to file through everyday on their way to the mills, and
you’ll arrive at the projects ground zero: the 30,000m 2 Rynek
(main square). Featuring Europe’s longest fountain the square
is the cultural hub, with restaurants, fitness club and IMAX
cinema crowded around it. A full program of events is planned
to keep things lively, including pop concerts, beer festival and
big screen showings of sports events.
Manufaktura is visited by close on 20 million visitors a year and
has become the new heart of the city. For the more languorous
character two electric tramlines have also been added to ferry
visitors from one end of the complex to the other. And in spite
all of this Manufaktura remains very much a work in progress
with new additions and changes happening all the time. The
complex can boast a state of the art 4-star Andels hotel, a
Museum of Art as well as the History of Lodz museum set in
the palace of the former mill owner Izrael Poznanski.
Zbigniew Kotecki, courtesy of Łódź City Council
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Shopping Mall
1
Museum of Art
11
2
Museum of the Factory
8
3
7
9
Craftsman’s alley
4
8
Andels Hotel
5
Real
5
3
12
6
16
Restaurants
Bowling alley, restaurant
Restaurants
Cinema City with 15 screens including 3D IMAX
6
7
15
Museum of the History of Łódź
Kids play and Experymentarium - interactive science museum
8
8
14
9
4
10
10
13
11
The Market Square ‘Rynek’
Mid-size store*
Food court
The Family entertainment centre and restaurants
2
12
13
1
14
15
Disco - Elektrownia
16

114 SHOPPING
Shopping at a Glance
It’s not Dubai, it’s not Hong
Kong, it’s not Milan and it’s
not London. Warsaw has a
long way to go before it’s regarded
as a shopping mecca,
but the city is seeing true
growth in the array of shops
available and the number of
big-name labels that are opening storefronts. Whether
it’s western style malls, designer boutiques, dusty family
stores or antique markets a day spent shopping can result
in both bargains and treasures, and there’s presents to be
had for everyone on your list (including yourself).
Wife or girlfriend
When we think of what the ladies would like, one word
comes to mind: amber. Poland is well known as the
best place to find handsomely shaped fossilised resin,
and you can easily nab a piece that will please at the
appropriately named World of Amber or famed Polish
jeweller W. Kruk.
Husband or boyfriend
One word: vodka. Another word: lard. Take home Poland’s
famous nectar and a container of smalec (spreadable
lard) and you’ll make any man happy. Krakowski Kredens
carries tubs of the greasy stuff, while you’ll find
popular Polish vodka brands like Żubrówka and Belvedere
at Chopin Luxury and M&P.
Brother
Euro 2012 may be over, but football is always popular in
Poland and Intersport at Zlote Tarasy carries all the
gear to get fully kitted out. Grab your brother an official
national team jersey in bright red and white and he’ll feel
like his sporting best.
Sister
If sis is a stylish gal head to Morka+in Saska Kepa for
the fashion-forward pieces created by Polish designer
Ewa Morka. For high-end options the new domMody
VITKAC is filled with name brands like Gucci and Alexander
McQueen, and the Likus Concept Store is one
of our fashion favourites.
Child
If you’re looking for souvenir-y staples like bright red
Polska onesies and dolls dressed in traditional Polish
garb, look no further than Cepelia. For something on the
educational end of the spectrum we recommend you raid
the Science Store at the Copernicus Science Centre;
games, experiments and books for all ages await.
Mom
Give mom some monk-like zen with soaps and lotions
from Produkty Benedyktyńskie, which carries a variety
of products created by the brothers at Tyniec Abbey in
Krakow. If she skews towards sweets then snag a box
Polish truffles at Pijalnie Czekolady Wedel.
Dad
If your dad is anything like ours he can lose hours of his
life in interesting vintage bookshops. Warsaw is packed
with them, and Antykwariat Lamus is one of the best
for old postcards, unique prints, old books and yellowing
maps from last century.
Alcohol
Of course you didn’t come to Poland just for the booze, but while
you’re here it’d be rude not to check out what the country has to
offer. Primarily that means vodka, with the two most highly regarded
clear Polish vodkas being Belvedere and Chopin. Find them in any
alcohol store. Others to watch for include Żubrówka - that’s the one
with the blade of bison grass inside - krupnik, a sweet honey vodka,
and wiśniówka, a sickly sweet cherry drink usually consumed after
meals. Finally, check Goldwasser, a unique elixir characterized by
the 22 karat gold flakes floating in it. Bottle shops are numerous
in Poland, as common as cabbage, though the ones we list come
guaranteed to have no tramps or underage teens.
Chopin Luxury A-4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 22 222 01 03, www.chopinvodka.com. More than
an off-license, more like everything you’ve ever wished for
before embarking on a Leaving Las Vegas session. Expect
cream-of-the-crop alcohols of every name and origin, not just
Polish. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
Ekskluzywne Alkohole M&P E-3, ul. Pańska 81/83,
tel. (+48) 22 652 85 22, www.wina-mp.pl. Wines and
assorted alcohol from Poland and across the world. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Vinoteka La Bodega C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel.
(+48) 22 745 46 10, www.vinoteka.pl. A smart outlet
located in the building that used to serve as the home to the
Polish Communist party. Alongside a very good restaurant
find a retail outlet offering a wide range of wines from around
the world as well as high-end spirits and wine accessories.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.
Amber & Jewellery
Vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland; the
country is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who
handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and coveted
pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing
baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself a stint
in the doghouse. The best place to begin your search is the
Old Town, which is filled with purveyors of amber baubles.
Frey Wille C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. (+48) 22 827
55 03, www.freywille.com. Fine jewellery and fashion accessories
inspired by masters like Klimt and Mucha. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Galeria Artystycznego Rzemiosła B-2, ul.
Świętojańska 23/25, tel. (+48) 22 831 94 23, www.
galeria-czernicki.pl. Old Town store filled with all measure
of amber options as well as glassware, all housed immaculately
behind glass cases. One of the only shops where prices
are clearly displayed on all of the pieces, which gets our
thumbs up. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
Kelly Melu Al. Jerozolimskie 42, tel. (+48) 22 827 33
74, www.kellymelu.pl. The number of young men jostling
to make purchases for their sweethearts should tell you all
you need to know about Kelly Melu jewellery: it’s popular, it’s
stylish and it’s affordable. The brightly-coloured bracelets
with charms appear to be the current must-have. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Mokobelle G-3, ul. Wilcza 3 (entrance at Mokotowska
54), tel. (+48) 607 07 37 15, www.mokobelle.pl. Modern
jewellery from Polish and other European designers and
friendly staff that’s eager to let you try it on. QOpen 11:00
- 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
W.Kruk C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19, tel. (+48) 661
98 05 74, www.wkruk.pl. Polish jewellery, amber and
watches from various international brand names including
Emporio Armani, Rolex, Omega, Tag Heuer, Maurice Lacroix,
Longines, Anne Klein. Watches only available at these locations:
(C-4) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 8, ul. Okopowa 58/72 (D-1,
Klif) and Pl. Konstytucji 6 (F-4). QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
World of Amber B-2, ul. Świętojańska 11, tel. (+48)
22 831 16 00, www.worldofamber.pl. This is truth in advertising
at its best. World of Amber is, literally, a world filled
with all things amber. Interested in a three-masted pirate ship
made of amber? How about a goblet trimmed in amber? A
glasses case? Beyond these unusual trinkets World of Amber
also has the usual beads, rings, neck-breaking pendants and
bracelets that are a must-have souvenir. The shop has a large
number of knowledgeable staff, which means you’re never
left lingering over a glass case waiting in vain for service.
Which we like even more than the chess set made entirely of
amber. We swear. Also at (B-2) ul. Świętojańska 14, (B-2) ul.
Piwna 12/14 and (B-2) ul. Piwna 26. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Antiques & Art Galleries
A walk through the streets of old and new town is usually
enough to fulfil antiquarian designs, as will a short mooch along
Mokotowska. However, anybody whose anybody will tell you the
real treasures are found elsewhere, namely the excellent Bazar
Na Kole, an open-air market where haggling and bargaining are
considered de rigeur. For full details on that check Markets. If
you’re planning on taking an artwork out of the country, and
it was produced prior to 1945, you will need authorisation to
permit you to do so. Most shops will be able to provide you with
this straight off the bat, but do check beforehand.
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
SHOPPING
Anytkwariat Lamus B-1, ul. Nowomiejska 7, tel.
(+48) 22 831 63 21, www.lamus.pl. On first glance you’ll
spot the shelves packed with old books and encyclopaedias
and want to thumb your nose, but a further peek inside
Lamus reveals bins of prints waiting to be sifted through.
Old Warsaw cityscapes, drawings of Polish flora and fauna
and even the off bit of vintage erotica can be found by those
intrepid enough to dig, and the walls are hung with old maps
that are also for sale. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 -
15:00. Closed Sun.
Desa Modern H-5, ul. Bartycka 116, tel. (+48) 795
12 15 73, www.desamodern.pl. Modern art courtesy
of some of the biggest names in Polish contemporary art
circles. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Galeria aBo Art B-1, ul. Rynek Nowego Miasta 17,
tel. (+48) 604 78 18 81, www.aboart.eu. Miniscule
art gallery that sells only works by Polish artists. Watercolours
of Old Town landmarks, metal art, painted silks,
glassware and jewellery all jumbled together for your
perusal. A unique local offering. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Lapidarium B-1, ul. Nowomiejska 15/17, tel. (+48)
509 60 18 94, www.lapidarium.pl. We can (and probably
have) spend hours at Lapidarium wandering the cluttered
rooms filled with all manner of junk - - and we say that
with love. Old uniforms, reproduction propaganda posters,
busts of Lenin, ancient record players and even old farm
equipment fights for your attention here. Give yourself time
to wander and accumulate a weird selection for purchase.
How to spot this place? Look for the antique bicycle and
spindle sitting outside the entrance. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00,
Sun 13:00 - 19:00.
December 2012 - January 2013
115

116 SHOPPING SHOPPING 117
Krakowskie Przedmieście 47/51
Mon-Fri 11.00-19.00, Sat 11.00-17.00
THE BEST GIFT SHOP IN WARSAW!
• seashells, minerals and fossils
• silver and amber jewellery
• semiprecious stone necklaces
• African and Asian handcraft
• decorative stone products
Credit card charges
If you’re visiting Poland and plan to pay for any purchases
with a credit card whose base currency isn’t
Polish zloty (and unless you’re Polish, this probably
means you) odds are you may find merchants asking
whether you want to be charged in your home currency
or zlotys. At times (though this is more rare)
it’s not even a question – the merchant will simply
take it upon himself to charge your credit card in
your home currency, no questions asked. Don’t fall
into the trap of thinking your credit card company
won’t charge a foreign transaction fee if you opt to
be charged in your native currency; crossing the
border is what they care about, not the currency.
And that’s just one of the reasons why, when given
the choice, it’s in the best interest of your wallet to
choose zlotys.
Why? Because the companies that process
credit card transactions typically tack on fees for
converting the money, and then do so at a lousy
exchange rate. Depending on the size and number
of your purchases while in Poland, the cost can
really add up. Visitors will have to be vigilant and
monitor receipts when paying with a credit card,
and should you be charged in a different currency
put your foot down. Merchants don’t benefit from
those additional fees, only the company that
processes the transaction does. So be firm about
asking to have your purchase refunded and done
over again in zlotys.
Van Den Berg Galeria Sztuki ul. Emilii Plater 12
lok. 1, tel. (+48) 512 57 62 01, www.galeriaberg.
com. What’s a South African doing in Warsaw? Selling art,
of course. And not just any art - customers will find the work
of Salvador Dali mingling with that of the owner’s father Riaan
Van Den Berg and Polish artists like Andrzej Krawczak. Owner
Adriaan Van Den Berg amiably guides visitors through the
collection, which includes biographies of all the artists. A
must-visit for devoted art collectors. QOpen 11:30 - 19:00,
Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Books, Music & Films
Good luck finding your morning paper, despite the millions
of flights that land each morning at Okęcie most English
language dailys don’t hit the shops until the afternoon,
sometimes not till the next day. The most comprehensive
source of foreign press can be found at EMPiK, though Traffic
and Relay (main hall of central train station) also stock a
smattering of titles. Also try the newsagents found in five star
hotels. As far as magazines are concerned, EMPiK blows the
competition out of the water, though you can expect to pay
a hefty mark-up for your mag of choice. For books check out
one of the American Bookstores scattered around the city.
EMPiK C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 15/17, tel. (+48) 22 451
04 81, www.empik.com. A hefty selection of international
magazines and newspapers as well as music, video games
and movies. There’s also an EMPiK megastore nearby at
ul. Marszałkowska 116/122 QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
11:00 - 19:00.
Traffic Club C-4, ul. Bracka 25, tel. (+48) 22 692
14 50, www.traffic-club.pl. Vast multi-level store selling
English-language books, DVDs, CDs and foreign language
press. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.
Fashion & Accessories
The stylish denizens of Warsaw’s streets are an easy indicator
that fashion is important in the capital city. Trot out
anything less than your best and it won’t go unnoticed, we
promise you. With the opening of dom mody VITKAC the city
has seen the arrival of major labels like Gucci and Lanvin,
and the Likus Concept Store is a reliable go-to for the latest
designer offerings. But you don’t have to stick to the big
fashion houses here. Polish stores like Tatuum and Morka+
offer distinct style at reasonable prices, so kit yourself out
accordingly. For lots of options in one location check out
Warsaw’s shopping centers like Zlote Tarasy and Arkadia.
Blind Concept Store C-4, ul. Mokotowska 63/100,
tel. (+48) 501 77 06 61. The word quirky was invented
for shops like this one, which sells everything from neoncoloured
rubber flats to tote bags covered in skulls. Eclectic
jewellery and bizarre knickknacks (cupcake-flavoured
lipgloss, anyone?) round out the experience. QOpen 11:00
- 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Carolina Herrera C-4, ul. Mysia 5, tel. (+48) 22 412
36 00, www.carolinaherrera.com. The eponymous highend
designer opens her first Warsaw store for women loyal
to great style. Find clothing, accessories and fragrances
inside this elegant showroom. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun
11:00 - 16:00.
Likus Concept Store C-3, ul. Bracka 9, tel. (+48)
22 310 73 13, www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus
Concept Stores are one of the leading designer brand
retailers in Poland and Warsaw’s version is now housed at
Tax Free Shopping
As a traveler residing in a
non-EU country you are entitled
to claim back the VAT on your
purchases when you bring them
home.
You will find Global Blue Tax
Free Shopping service in the
major shops of Poland.
Spend a minimum of 200PLN,
and save up to 12% of the
purchase price.
For more details contact:
Global Blue Polska Sp. z o. o.
Phone: +48 22 500 18 51
e-mail: taxfree.pl@global-blue.com
www.global-blue.com
the high-end dom mody VITKAC shopping centre, where
it rubs shoulders with labels like Balenciaga, Gucci and
Alexander McQueen. Which should tell you straight away
that Likus is no slouch when it comes to fashion: the new
store is well stocked with all the Lanvin, Jimmy Choo and
Yves Saint Laurent you could ask for. The decor of washed
grey walls and shelves of old books - and don’t miss the
antler chandelier near the dressing rooms - make it look
like the most stylish library on earth. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Maciej Zień C-4, ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. (+48) 519
00 00 49, www.zien.pl/pl/butiki. A well-known name
in the Polish fashion industry, Maciej Zień is a Lublin-born
designer whose collections can be found in magazines and
on Polish stars. That said, the store is less intimidating than
Zień’s credentials so pop in and browse. QOpen 11:00 -
19:00. Closed Sun.
TAX FREE SHOPPING - GLOBAL BLUE
Non-EU residents are entitled to claim
a VAT refund when the purchased
goods are exported in an unused
condition outside the EU in personal
luggage. Shop wherever you see the
Global Blue logo. The minimum total
purchase value with VAT per Tax Free
Form is 200pln. Keep the Tax Free
Form, have it stamped when leaving
the final point of departure from the EU and reclaim
your money. For full details check www.global-blue.com.
1 GET IT
Once youíve found that perfect item, remember to ask the shop
staff for a Tax Free Form when youíre paying for it.
2 STAMP IT
When youíre leaving the country to head home
or to continue your journey, take your
purchases, receipt and passport to the customs
desk to get your Tax Free Form stamped. If
youíre travelling on to another EU country, get
the stamp on your Tax Free Form at your final
point of departure from the EU.
3 REFUND
Finally, show your stamped Tax Free Form and
passport to our staff at Global Blue Customer
Services or one of our partner refund points and
theyíll issue your refund immediately.
Moliera 2 B-2, ul. Moliera 2, tel. (+48) 22 827 70 99,
www.moliera2.com. Exclusive two level boutique featuring
collections by Valentino, Salvatore Ferragamo and Ralph Lauren.
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Morka + ul. Jana Styki 1 (entrance from ul. Zwycięzców,
Saska Kępa), tel. (+48) 505 82 75 50, www.ewamorka.
pl. This postage stamp-sized Saska Kępa boutique is filled
with the simple styles of local Polish designer Ewa Morka.
Designs cover casual and dress attire, and accessories like
handbags and jewelry are also on display. Browsing in this
mini-boutique will take minutes; it’s deciding how to spread
out your budget to cover all your wants that takes times.
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Odzieżowe Pole G-3, ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. (+48)
696 04 95 68. With no sign out front at this new location
there’s a good chance you’ll trot right past Odzieżowe Pole
and not realise what you’re missing. Don’t. Modern city
fashion calls this funky boutique home, and there’s even a
coffee bar offering lattes while you browse. Find everything
from work attire to cocktail dresses on offer, including a
stylish selection of accessories. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 F-4, ul. Hoża 1, tel. (+48) 22
622 14 16, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Label-conscious
shoppers will delight in the mix of designers like Ralph
Lauren, Moncler, Salvatore Ferragamo and TOD’s that are
spread across men’s and women’s apparel and accessories.
Displays of pristinely-folded sweaters are immaculate, and
the staff is eager to search for any size - and have an encyclopaedic
knowledge of which celebrities are sporting which
style. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
December 2012 - January 2013

118 SHOPPING SHOPPING 119
Secret Life (of things) F-4, ul. Polna 18/20, tel. (+48)
22 412 48 11, www.secretlife.pl. It’s hard to know how
to classify Secret Life since their bright, airy shop is home to
so many different things: there’s a case of unique jewellery,
a room devoted to clothes and shoes, a pile of handbags,
and then a scattering of funky home decor items and knickknacks
that demand your attention. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
TFH Tymczasowy Butik B-4, ul. Szpitalna 8a, tel.
(+48) 509 74 17 89. This one-time pop-up shop has set
down roots finally, which means you’ll know exactly where to
find the city’s hottest fashions. TFH’s new boutique displays
an impressive selection of stylish t-shirts, handbags and
hoodies from over 20 of Poland’s young fashion designers,
including Rozwadowska Bags, Alicja Saar and Odio Tees.
Don’t forget to check out the accessories and large pictorial
books about - what else? - fashion. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
Food & Sweets
Food-wise Poland has plenty of edible delights that will
tempt (or shock) your friends, from delicious sausages and
preserves to jars of smalec (yep, that’s spreadable lard for
your bread). Dine in true Polish style long after you’ve leapt
the border by bringing home traditional staples or any number
of the hearty sweets that end every Polish meal.
Krakowski Kredens C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 22, tel. (+48)
696 49 00 11, www.krakowskikredens.pl. Upmarket Polish
delicatessen selling jams, compotes, hams and cheeses.
Also on ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy). Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
09:00 - 21:00. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00,
Sun 11:00 - 14:00.
Pijalnie Czekolady Wedel B-3, ul. Szpitalna 8, tel.
(+48) 22 827 29 16, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. A Polish
legend that’s been operating since Karol Wedel first
opened a chocolate factory in 1851. Check the handmade
pralines. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00.
Produkty Benedyktyńskie A-2, Al. Jana Pawła II
43a/35, tel. (+48) 22 838 21 02, www.benedicite.pl.
This shop, set up by the Benedictine monks of Tyniec Abbey,
sells such an astounding variety of products - cheese, jam,
wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups, meats - it raises two
eyebrows over how they find the time. All the products are
completely natural, without pigment, and unilaterally excellent
and make excellent gifts and can even be purchased
through their (Polish only) website. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Gifts & Souvenirs
Polish glass and amber are highly thought of, though if
you want something clutz-proof then Polish linen, lace
and woodwork all look lovely on someone else’s mantle.
Folk art is an easily recognizable symbol of Poland, as is a
magnet of the country’s favorite hero and saint-in-waiting
Pope John Paul II. For the lads, pick up a Polski football shirt
or scarf off any of the stalls that spring up unannounced
around central station.
Artis Galeria Sztuki Użytkowej F-3, ul. Emilii Plater
47, tel. (+48) 22 620 59 30, www.artisgaleria.pl. Folkish
souvenirs including religious icons, angels, dolls, tapestries
and carvings. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun.
Art Manus G-4, ul. Mokotowska 41, tel. (+48) 22 627
21 04. Top quality Polish made linen on a street renowned
for its boutique elegance. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00
- 16:00. Closed Sun.
Cepelia B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, tel. (+48)
22 628 77 57, www.cepelia.pl. Your first stop for tacky
souveniers. Amongst the tat also find traditional Polish handicrafts:
table cloths, ceramics, glass etc. Also at ul. Krucza
23 (C-4) and ul. Chmielna 8 (C-3). QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat
11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Intersport A-4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. (+48)
12 444 88 88, www.intersport.pl. If you’re a fan of the
Polish national football team this is your HQ for all the official
gear, from jerseys to shorts to the balls themselves. Also a
great spot for general sports apparel should you require it.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.
Neptunea B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 47/51, tel.
(+48) 22 827 97 05, www.neptunea.pl. A weird little find
selling decorative sea shells, minerals, fossils, silver jewellery,
oriental furniture and exotic crafts. An absolute treasure, and
a must visit if you’re looking for a something a little unique.
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Rock Shop B-4, ul. Złota 59
(Złote Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22
222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl.
You know a city has
made it when it gets a Hard
Rock Cafe and is there anything
which says ‘I’ve been there’
more than a Hard Rock Cafe
t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the ‘Warsaw’
one to add to your collection at the shop inside the HRC in
the Złote Tarasy development opposite the train station. Classic
t-shirts cost 99zł, all others run 105zł. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
Markets
Cheapskates rejoice, while the closure of ‘The Russian
Market’ hit bargain hunters hard Warsaw still has a very
decent spread of bazaars. While rumours of pickpockets are
at times exaggerated, do nonetheless exercise a degree of
vigilance while perusing the swag on show.
Koło Bazar D-2, ul. Obozowa 99, tel. (+48) 22 836
23 51. Quality flea market held each weekend from dawn
till dusk. Attracting buyers and sellers from across the
country this is exactly the place if you’ve ever wanted to
own a Prussian helmet or set of palace doors from India
(yours for 16,000zł). What else can you find? We’ve spotted
pre-war posters advertising Polish toothpaste, early 19th
century postcards, prewar bathroom fixtures and grandfather
clocks. Vinyl records go for as little as 1zł. You’ll even find
the occasional celeb looking for something wacky to fill their
top-floor penthouse with. The traders themselves are a set
of curious characters, and watching these veterans at work
is one reason alone to visit. While early morning is the best
time to snap up the rare finds, 1pm on the closing Sunday
is the time to hit to try and get the last minute bargains. The
golden rule is to haggle at all times. Paying the asking price
means overpaying. QOpen 06:00 - 18:00.
Photography Market F-5, ul. Batorego 10 (Stodoła
Club). Discount camera equipment inside the Stodoła
nightclub. Lenses, lamps, filters, negatives etc. Highly recommended
for those who take their photography seriously and
know what they are looking for. Q Open Sun 10:00-14:00.
Shopping malls
Złote Tarasy A-4, ul.
Złota 59, tel. (+48) 22 222
22 00, www.zlotetarasy.
pl. Warsaw’s monstrous train
station now has a new neighbour
- the sparkling Złote
Tarasy complex. Officially
opened on February 7, 2007
by Warsaw mayor, Hanna
Gronkiewicz Waltz, the first
afternoon alone saw 64,000
people file through the doors.
The 250 million Euro project
includes 225,000m2 of office, retail and entertainment
space, with underground parking for 1,600 cars. Drawing
more than million visitors each month the complex
signals a bold shift away from the out-of-town malls
found in Warsaw, and familiar stores include Marks &
Spencers, Aldo, Poland’s first Body Shop, Hugo Boss,
Van Graf clothes store and EMPiK. For leisure, visitors
can not only visit Poland’s first Hard Rock Café which
is split over 2 levels, but also a multiplex cinema and
more than 20 restaurants and bars spread over 5 levels,
including a Burger King. Designed by Jerde Partnership
International (whose founder, Jon Adams Jerde, designed
the Olympic Village for LA 1984), the central showpiece is
a 10,000m glass dome, fitted with a special mechanism
to both filter sunrays and to stop snow from building up.
Q Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
Klif D-1, ul. Okopowa
58/72, tel. (+48) 22 531
45 00, www.klif.pl. The
nationwide Klif chain have
long been present in Warsaw,
though if you think you’ve seen
it all before then think again.
These chaps have rebranded
and re-launched with October
2008 refit resulting in the addition
of new floors, an updated
design and a thorough facelift.
But as with all shopping centres the proof comes in the
pudding, ie the tenants. Now on show are top tags from
MaxMara to PennyBlack, as well outlets for casual faves
like Paul & Shark. For the juniors watch for Casper and
Mothercare. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
FACTORY Outlet Pl.
Czerwca 1976r. 6 (Ursus),
tel. (+48) 22 478 22 70,
www.factory.pl. This outlet
centre is preoccupied with
fashion, offering top brand
names at 30-70% discounts
over other shopping malls. Recognisable names among
the brands include Pepe Jeans, Wrangler, Wittchen and
more. One of the only such outlet centres in Europe, you
can access it by taking the SKM train from Śródmieście
and getting off at SKM Ursus, or by catching bus 127 at
Dworzec Centralny and switching to bus 194 or 716 at
PKP Wlochy. Your final destination will be Ursus-Ratusz.
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
dom handlowy VITKAC C-4, ul. Bracka 9, tel.
(+48) 22 310 73 13, www.vitkac.com. The giant
glowing ‘Gucci’ sign will be your first hint that this isn’t
your typical shopping centre, and the heavy security is
the second. Shoppers can find the popular Likus Concept
Store on the main level of the sprawling structure
while abels like Givenchy, Armani, Dsquared2, Alexander
McQueen and Yves Saint Laurent are spread over the
remaining four levels of shopping space, with roughly
three employees available for every browsing customer.
The atmosphere is more museum than mall, but if you’re
looking to splurge on designer names then this is your
headquarters. If maxing out your credit card works up
an appetite be sure to head to Restauracja Concept 13,
which offers sweeping city views in a modern, open-concept
space. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Arkadia D-1, Al.
Jana Pawła II 82, tel.
(+48) 22 323 67 67,
www.arkadia.com.
pl. If you can’t find it in
Arkadia, you probably
never will. Covering a
total area of 287 000
m2 Arkadia stands out
as the biggest shopping mall in Central Europe. The five
floor leviathan contains everything you need to survive
Warsaw, so it’s little wonder we know of people who
spend their lives stalking around its corridors; approximately
45,000 - 70,000 people visit each day. It took
three years of work to complete, and now houses fashion
stores include Lacoste, Peek & Cloppenburg and Tommy
Hilfiger, as well as ubiquitous high street chains like Zara,
Esprit and Kappahl. A giant Saturn store takes care of
all your electronic needs: from DVDs to sound systems.
Carrefour takes a large chunk of the ground floor, though
most expats are making a beeline for the first Mark &
Spencers food department in the country. If you can’t find
what you’re after in there then head to Kuchnie Świata.
The shop is tiny but is home to everything from Marmite
and Pirri Pirri sauce to Weetabix, Cadburys Chocolate
and Dr Pepper. English language books are available
from American Bookstore, and foreign press from EM-
PiK. Entertainment comes in the form of a 15 screen
multiplex. Alongside some very decent dining options
is the microbrewery Bierhalle. Serving homemade beer
and plates of sausages, this is exactly the place to leave
the other half where he will be delightfully happy for a few
hours. Connected by 10 tram lines, 15 bus routes and
with space for 4,000 vehicles. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
December 2012 - January 2013

120 DIRECTORY
24-hour pharmacies
Apteka G-5, ul. Puławska 39, tel. (+48) 22 849 37 57,
www.apteka.jollymed.pl.
Apteka Beata E-2, Al. Solidarności 149, tel. (+48)
22 620 08 18.
Business associations
American Chamber of Commerce F-3, Warsaw
Financial Centre, ul. Emilii Plater 53, tel. (+48) 22 520
59 99, www.amcham.pl.
British Polish Chamber of Commerce G-4, Al. Szucha
3/14, tel. (+48) 22 622 20 56, www.bpcc.org.pl.
Computer repair
iSource C-2, ul. Dobra 56/66 (University Library), tel.
(+48) 22 550 86 86, www.isource.pl. Authorized Apple
products service point. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Consulates & Embassies
Australia B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 11, tel. (+48) 22 521
34 44, www.australia.pl.
Austria H-5, ul. Gagarina 34, tel. (+48) 22 841 00 81,
www.ambasadaaustrii.pl.
Canada C-4, ul. Matejki 1/5, tel. (+48) 22 584 31
00, www.canada.pl.
France G-4, ul. Piękna 1, tel. (+48) 22 529 30 00,
www.ambafrance-pl.org.
Germany G-4, ul. Jazdów 12, tel. (+48) 22 584 17 00,
www.warszawa.diplo.de.
Currency exchange
Changing money is increasingly less fretful to do, but
as with most international destinations it is still worth
keeping checking rates particularly at entry points
such as airports or in major tourist areas. We check
rates of a selection of money exchange offices (kantors)
every two months. Here were their buying rates
(how many zloty you would get for one unit of foreign
currency) for the 23.11.12 compared to the following
National Bank of Poland (NBP) published rates for that
morning of Euro 1 = 4,0655zł, US$ 1 = 3,1580zł,
GBP 1 = 5,0353zł.
Aurex C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 33, tel. (+48) 22 626
92 60, www.aurex.biz.
1 Euro = 4.08zl,
1 Dollar = 3.15zl,
1 Pound = 5.02zl,
No commission.
Kantor A-4, Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59 (level 0), tel.
(+48) 22 222 12 34.
1 Euro = 4.05zl,
1 Dollar = 3.12zl,
1 Pound = 5.00zl,
No commission.
Pekao SA ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48)
22 650 51 88, www.pekao.com.pl.
1 Euro = 3.78zł,
1 Dollar = 2.99zł,
1 Pound = 4.68zł.
No commission.
Ireland C-4, ul. Mysia 5, tel. (+48) 22 849 66 33, www.
embassyofireland.pl.
Israel F-4, ul. Krzywickiego 24, tel. (+48) 22 597 05
00, www.israel.pl.
Italy F-2, Pl. Dąbrowskiego 6, tel. (+48) 22 826 34 71,
www.ambvarsavia.esteri.it.
Lithuania G-3, Al. Ujazdowskie 14, tel. (+48) 22 625
33 68, pl.mfa.lt.
Netherlands H-4, ul. Kawalerii 10, tel. (+48) 22 559
12 00, www.nlembassy.pl.
Norway G-4, ul. Chopina 2a, tel. (+48) 22 696 40 30,
www.amb-norwegia.pl.
Russia G-5, ul. Belwederska 49, tel. (+48) 22 621 34
53, www.rusemb.pl.
Spain G-4, ul. Myśliwiecka 4, tel. (+48) 22 583 40 00.
Sweden G-5, ul. Bagatela 3, tel. (+48) 22 640 89 00,
www.swedenabroad.com/warsaw.
United Kingdom G-4, ul. Kawalerii 12, tel. (+48) 22
311 00 00, www.ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk.
USA G-4, Al. Ujazdowskie 29/31, tel. (+48) 22 504 20
00, poland.usembassy.gov.
Dentists
CCS Ludna G-3, ul. Ludna 10a, tel. (+48) 22 625 01
02, www.ccsludna.pl.
DentaLux D-6, ul. Racławicka 131, tel. (+48) 22 823
72 22, www.dentalux.pl.
Emergency Rooms
Szpital Kliniczny Dzieciątka Jezus A-4, ul. Lindleya
4, tel. (+48) 22 502 15 25, www.szpital-clo.med.pl.
Szpital na Solcu G-2, ul. Solec 93, tel. (+48) 22 250
62 26, www.cmsolec.pl.
Ex-Pat Organizations
Alcoholics Anonymous B-4, ul. Radna 14 flat 3,
www.warsawaa.org. Meetings on Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu
18:30, Fri 20:30 and Sat at 09:45 and 11:00. Note that on
the first Saturday of each month these meetings take place
at ul. Poznanska 38. Meetings at ul. Poznanska 38 also take
place every Sun at 13:30. For more info visit their website.
Fantasy Role-Playing Group, tel. (+48) 505 44 12
71, creativecowboy@yahoo.com. English-language players
welcome for game that constructs collective story narratives
using high-level language communication and a few simple
rules. Wholesome fun, with newcomers always welcome and
encouraged. Contact R.A. for dates, times and locations.
International Women’s Group of Warsaw, www.
iwgwarsaw.eu. Meetings are held twice a month on the
second Monday at the Sofitel between 10:30 and 12:30,
and on the fourth Monday of the month at Żółta Kaczka in
Złote Tarasy (A-4, ul. Złota 59) between 10:00 and 11:00.
For more information see www.iwgwarsaw.eu or contact
iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com
Genealogy
National Archive B-1, ul. Krzywe Koło 7, tel. (+48) 22
635 92 68, www.warszawa.ap.gov.pl.
Registry Office E-1, ul. Andersa 5, tel. (+48) 22 443
12 30, www.um.warszawa.pl.
International schools
American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202,
Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. (+48) 22 702 85 00, www.
aswarsaw.org.
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry ul. Nobla 16
(Praga Południe), tel. (+48) 22 616 14 99, www.
saint-exupery.pl.
International American School ul. Dembego 18
(Ursynów), tel. (+48) 22 649 14 40, www.ias.edu.pl.
International European School ul. Wiertnicza
140 (Wilanów), tel. (+48) 22 842 44 48, www.ieswarsaw.pl.
The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15 (Mokotów),
tel. (+48) 22 842 32 81, www.thebritishschool.pl.
Language schools
Edu&More B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 87 lok.81, tel.
(+48) 22 622 14 41, www.polishonlinenow.com.
Go from seeing Polish as a pile of consonants to fluency
with the fast and effective tutors at Edu & More, the 2011
Entrepreneurship Leader of the Year winners in the field of
innovations in teaching Polish. Individual and group lessons
are tailor made to your capabilities, learn business Polish to
help with your job and busy students can opt for online lessons.
Bonus: your initial meeting with a tutor is free of charge.
The Centre for Polish Studies B-3, ul. Świętokrzyska
20, tel. (+48) 22 826 19 04, www.learnpolish.edu.pl.
Private clinics
Damian Hospital G-3, ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. (+48) 22
566 22 22, www.damian.pl. English-speaking doctors
available.
Lux-Med A-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel),
tel. (+48) 22 33 22 888, www.luxmed.pl. Also on
ul. Domaniewska 41a, ul. 17 Stycznia 49, Al. Jana Pawła II
78 (E-1) and ul. Bobrowiecka 1 (H-6).
Real estate
Knight Frank C-3, ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. (+48) 22
596 50 50, www.knightfrank.com.pl.
Ober-Haus Real Estate Advisors B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie
123a, tel. (+48) 22 116 65 00, www.ober-haus.pl.
Long established experts in residential, office, logistics and
retail real estate, both in Poland and the Baltics. Founded
in 1994 the database includes all types of large and small
flats, luxury suites, houses and villas.
Religious Services
St Paul’s English Speaking Catholic Parish C-3,
ul. Radna 14, tel. (+48) 600 38 49 16, www.warsawcatholics.pl.
English-language mass held each Sunday at
11:30. English confessions at 10:30.
Relocation companies
AGS Worldwide Movers ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno,
tel. (+48) 22 702 10 72, www.agsmovers.com.
Take the stress out of an international move with reliable
AGS, who offer a range of independent services to complement
their turnkey removals solutions. Free quotes can be
requested via their website.
Move One Relocations F-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79,
tel. (+48) 22 630 81 69, www.moveoneinc.com.
PRO Relocation B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel.
(+48) 22 630 61 00, www.prorelo.com.
Translators & Interpreters
Komputekst ul. Międzyborska 82 (Praga-Południe),
tel. (+48) 22 825 40 50, www.komputekst.pl.
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
DIRECTORY
I
t took five seconds to transform Poland
from a country bustling with
confidence into one wracked with
grief on a scale not seen since the Second
World War.
At some point on a nondescript Saturday
morning on April 10, the aircraft carrying
the president, his wife and 94 others
clipped a tree with its left wing as it
approached Smolensk airport in western
Russia. Five seconds later, now devoid of
one wing, it barrel rolled anti-clockwise,
before slamming roof first into the ground.
As news of the accident broke in Poland,
and one by one television channels
interrupted their regular services, news
readers struggled to contain their emotions
as they realised the devastating blow the
Smolensk disaster had dealt the country.
Along with President Kaczynski, and
Maria his wife, the casualty list read like a
who’s who of the Polish elite.
The head of the national bank, the
chief of the armed forces, the heads of the
navy and air force, two ministers, leading
politicians and dozens of others. Many
household names in Poland; now all dead.
The irony that the Tupolev Tu-154
crashed at it was carrying a delegation
to mark the 70th-anniversary of the
Katyn massacre, when Stalin’s henchman
slaughtered Poland’s best, was not lost.
The parents of the pilot in charge of flying
the presidential plane have begged the world
not to blame their son for the crash.
Captain Arkadiusz Protasiuka was the
man responsible for landing the Polish
Air Force Tu-154M safely in Russia on
Saturday 10th April, but, for reason still
unknown, he was unable to successfully
carry out his task.
“The Soviets killed Polish elites in Katyn
70 years ago. Today, the Polish elite died
there while getting ready to pay homage to
the Poles killed there,” said Lech Walesa.
Aleksander Kwasniewski, another
former president, described Katyn as a
“cursed place, and of horrible symbolism”.
As Poles absorbed what Donald Tusk
called the “most tragic event in Poland’s
post-war history” thousands began to
make their way to the presidential palace
in central Warsaw, which was to become
the focal point of national mourning.
At noon on Sunday across the nation two
minutes silence was observed in memory
of the people that died in the air crash in
Smolensk. The silence was then pierced by
the claxons and sirens of local authority
warning systems and police vehicles. To
this mournful orchestra of wails, the Polish
nation stood to attention and reflected
on their loss in the forests near Katyn.
Warsaw’s Presidential Palace has become the focal point of the nation’s grief
A small patch of flowers and candles
left by mourners expanded and grew,
carpeting the pavement and the road in
a tribute to those who had died. Political
differences vanquished by grief, thousands
upon thousands of people made their way
to the palace to pay their respects in quiet
dignity.
The outpouring of sympathy for the
victims spoke volumes for the shock
and sadness that had touched Poles; it
also spoke volumes for the decency of
Poland.
The tragic death of the head of the
National Bank of Poland Slawomir
Skrzypek in Saturday’s plane crash leaves
questions open about who will replace
him, and how his loss will affect monetary
policy and other issues.
The succession issue is a major one, since
both the parliament and the president
must make the choice jointly.
December 2012 - January 2013
© www.prezydent.pl
121

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128 STREET REGISTER
1 Sierpnia D-6/7
29 Listopada H-4
Aleje Ujazdowskie C-4, (G-3/5)
Andersa, gen. A-1/2 (E-1/2)
Anielewicza A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Archiwalna D-5
Armii Ludowej, al. F/H-4
Bagatela G-4/5
Bagno B-3
Banachago D/E-5
Bankowy, pl. A-2 (F-2)
Barbary, św. B-4, (F-3)
Barokowa B-2
Barona D-2
Batorego E/F-5
Bednarska B/C-2
Bellottiego D-2
Belwederska G-5/6
Biała A-3 (E-2)
Białobrzeska D-4/5
Bielańska B-2 (F-2)
Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. D-4/5
Bobrowskiego D-5
Boduena B-3
Bohaterów Getta A-2 (E/F-1)
Bohdanowicza D-6
Boleść B-1
Bonifraterska A/B-1
Bracka C-4
Browarna C-2/3 (G-2)
Brylowska D-3
Brzeska H-1
Brzozowa B-1
Bugaj B-1/2
Bytnara F-6/7
Canaletta B-2
Celna B-1/2
Chałubińskiego A/B-4 (F-3/4)
Chełmska H-6
Chłodna A-3 (D/E-2)
Chmielna A-4, B/C-3/4, (E-3, F-3)
Chocimska G-5
Chodkiewicza E-5/6
Chopina G-4
Ciasna B-1
Ciepła A-3 (E-2)
Cicha C-3
Corazziego B-2
Czackiego B-3 (F-2)
Czerniakowska G/H-3
Czerska H-5/6
Czeska H-2
Dąbrowskiego, pl. B-3 (F/G-6)
Dawna B-1/2
Defilad, pl. B-4 (F-3)
Dickensa D-5
Długa A/B-1/2 (F-1)
Długosza D-2
Dobra C-2/3 (G-1/2)
Dobrzańskiego A-3
Dolna G-6
Drewniana C-3
Dubois A-1 (E-1)
Dzielna A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Dzika D/E-1
Elektoralna A-2/3 (E-2)
Emilii Plater A/B-3/4 (F-3)
Esperanto E-1/2
Etiudy Rewolucyjnej E-7
Filtrowa E-4
Floriańska G-1
Foksal C-3 (G-3)
Franciszkańska A/B-1
Francuska H-2
Frascati C-4
Fredry B-2 (F-2)
Freta B-1 (F-1)
Furmańska C-2 (F/G-2)
Gagarina G/H-5
Gałczyńskiego C-3
Gamerskiego B-2
Geodetów D-5
Gęsta C-2
Gibalskiego D-2
Górnośląska H-3
Górska H-5/6
Górskiego B/C-3
Goszczyńskiego F/G-6
Goworka G-5
Graniczna B-3
Grodzka C-2
Grójecka D/E-4/6
Grzybowska A-3 (E/F-2/3)
Grzybowski, pl. A/B-3
Grzymały D-4
Hoża B/C-4 (F/G-3)
Hynka D-7
Idzikowskiego G/H-6/7
Inflancka A-1
Iwicka H-5
Jaktorowska D-3
Jana Pawła II, al.
A-2/4, (D/E-1/3)
Jana Sobieskiego G/H-5/6
Jasielska D-6
Jasna B-3, (F-2/3)
Jazdów G-4
Jerozolimskie, Al.
A/C-3/4, (D/G-2/4)
Joliot-Curie F-7
Kacza D-2
Kaliska D-4
Kanonia B-2
Kapitulna B-2
Karasia C-3
Karmelicka A-2 (E-1/2)
Karolkowa D-2/3
Karowa C-2 (F/G-2)
Kasprzaka D-3
Kazimierzowska F-5
Kępna H-1
Kilińskiego B-1/2
Klonowa G-5
Kłopotowskiego G-1
Kolberga F-7
Kolejowa D/E-3/4
Konduktorska G-6
Konopnickiej C-4
Konstytucji, pl. F-4
Konwiktorska A/B-1
Kopernika C-3
Kopińska D-4
Korotyńskiego D-6
Kościelna B-1 (E/F-1)
Koszykowa E/G-4
Kotlarska D/E-2/3
Kozia B-2
Koźla B-1 (F-1)
Krakowskie Przedmieście
B/C-2/3, (F-2)
Krasickiego F/G-7
Krasińskich, pl. B-2 (F-1)
Krasnołęcka H-5
Kredytowa B-3 (F-2)
Krochmalna A-3 (E-2)
Królewska B-3 (F-2)
Krucza C-4 (F/G-3)
Kruczkowskiego C-3 (G-2)
Krywulta C-3
Krzywe Koło B-1
Krzywickiego E-4
Książęca C-4 (G-3)
Kubusia Puchatka C-3
Kusocińskiego G/H-4
Kwiatowa F-5
Lądowa G-5
Lechicka D-7
Lenartowicza F/G-6/7
Lennona G-4
Leszczyńska C-3
Leszno D-2
Leszowa E/F-4/5
Lewartowskiego A-1/2 (E-1)
Lindleya A-4 (E-3/4)
Lipowa C-2
Litewska G-4
Lubelska H-1
Ludna G/H-3
Ludowa G-6
Lwowska F-4
Łazienkowska H-4
Łucka A-3 (E-3)
Madalińskiego F/G-5/6
Majewskiego D-5
Małachowskiego, pl. B-3
Malczewskiego F/G-6
Mariańska A-3
Mariensztat C-2
Markowska H-1
Marszałkowska B-2/4 (F-2/4)
Matejki C-4
Mazowiecka B-3 (F-2)
Miączyńska E-6/7
Miedziana A-4 (E-3)
Miła A-1 (D/E-1)
Miłobędzka E-6
Miodowa B-2 (F-1)
Mireckiego D-2
Mirowski, pl. A-3 (E-2)
Młynarska D-2
Mokotowska C-4 (G-3/4)
Mołdawska D-6
Moliera B-2 (F-2)
Moniuszki B-3
Mostowa B-1 (F-1)
Muranowska A-1 (E-1)
Mysia C-4
Myśliwiecka G/H-4
Na Rozdrożu, pl. G-4
Na Skarpie, al. G-3
Nabielaka G-5
Nalewki A-1/2
Narbutta F/G-5
Narutowicza, pl. D-4
Nehru H-5
Niecała B-2, (F-2)
Niemcewicza D/E-4
Niepodległości, al. F/G-4
Niska A-1, (D/E-1)
Niska D/E-1
Niżyńskiego Pasaż B-3
Nowiniarska B-1
Nowogrodzka A/C-4 (E/F-3)
Nowolipie A-2 (E-2)
Nowolipki A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Nowowiejska E/G-4
Nowy Świat C-3/4 (G-2/3)
Oboźna C-3
Obozowa D-2
Oczki E/F-3/4
Odolańska F/G-6
Odyńca F/G-6
Ogrodowa A-3 (E-2)
Okólnik C-3
Okopowa 1/2-D
Okrąg G/H-3
Okrzei G-1
Oleandrów F/G-4
Olimpijska E-6
Olkuska G-6
Olszewska G-5
Olszowa G-1
Ondraszka E-4/5
Opolski, pl. D-2
Ordynacka C-3 (G-2)
Orla A-2/3 (E-2)
Orłowicza G-3
Ossolińskich B-2
Padewska G-6
Panieńska G-1
Pańska A-3/4 (E-3)
Parkowa G-5
Pasteura D-4/5
Paszyna D-1
Pawia A-2 (D/E-2, E-1)
Pawińskiego D-5/6
Pereca A-3 (E-3)
Piaseczyńska G-6
Piekarska B-2
Piękna F/G-4
Piłsudskiego, marsz. pl. B-3 (F-2)
Piwarskiego G/H-6
Piwna B-2
Płatowcowa E-6
Platynowa E-3
Podchorążych G/H-5
Podwale B-1/2 (F-1)
Pokorna A-1
Polna F/G-4
Poniatowskiego, ks. Al. H-2
Powązkowska D-1
Powstańców Warszawy, pl. B-3
Poznańska B-4 (F-3)
Promenada G-5/6
Prosta A-4 (D/E-3)
Próżna B-3
Prusa C-4
Pruszkowska D-6
Przechodnia A-2/3
Przemyska D-5
Przyokopowa D-3
Przyrynek B-1
Ptasia A/B-3 (F-2)
Puławska G-5/7
Pułku Baszta F-7
Pytlasińskiego G-6
Racławicka D/E-6
Radna C-3
Rajców B-1
Rakowiecka E/G-5
Raszyńska E-4
Rejtana G-5
Rokitnicka E-5
Rostafińskich E-5
Róż, al. G-4
Różana F/G-5/6
Rozbrat G-3
Rycerska B-2
Rynek Nowego Miasta B-1 (F-1)
Rynek Starego Miasta B-1/2
Rysia B-3
Sandomierska G-5
Sanguszki B-1
Sanocka D-5/6
Sapieżyńska A/B-1
Sasanki D-7
Senatorska B-2 (F-1/2)
Schillera B-2 (F-1)
Siedmiogrodzka D-3
Sielecka H-5/6
Siemieńskiego D-5
Sienkiewicza B-3
Sienna A-4 (E-3)
Skaryszewska H-1
Skarżyńskiego D-5
Skierniewicka D-3
Skorochód D-5/6
Sławińska D-3/4
Słoneczna G-5
Słupecka D-4
Smocza D/E-1/2
Smolna C-3/4
Sokola G/H-1/2
Solec G/H-2/3
Solidarności, al.
A/C-1/3, (D/G-1/2)
Sosnowa A-4
Spacerowa G-5
Spartańska E-7
Spiska D/E-4
Srebrna F-3
Stara B-1
Starościńska F/G-5
Starynkiewicza, pl. E-3
Staszica D-2
Stawki A-1 (D/E-1)
Stefana Batorego E/F-5
Stępińska H-5/6
Sulkiewicza G-5
Szara G-3
Szarych Szeregów D-3
Szczęśliwicka D-4
Szczygla C-3
Szkolna B-3
Szpitalna B-3/4
Szucha, al. G-4
Szwoleżerów H-4
Śliska A-4
Świętojańska B-2
Świętojerska A/B-1/2 (E/F-1)
Świętokrzyska B/C-3 (E/G-2/3)
Tagore’a F-6
Tamka C-3 (G-2)
Targowa G/H-1
Teatralny, pl. B-2 (F-2)
Tłomackie A/B-2
Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza
B-2/3
Topiel C-3
Towarowa D/E-2/3
Traugutta B/C-3
Trębacka B-2
Trojdena, ks. D/E-5
Trzech Krzyży, pl. C-4 (G-3)
Tuwima C-3
Twarda A-3/4 (E-3)
Tyniecka G-6/7
Unii Lubelskiej, pl. G-4/5
Ursynowska F/G-6
Wał Miedzeszyński H-2/3
Walecznych H-2
Waliców A-3 (E-2/3)
Wałowa A-1/2 (E-1)
Warecka B/C-3 (F-2)
Waryńskiego F/G-4/5
Wąski Dunaj B-2
Wawelska D/F-4
Widok B-4
Wiecha Pasaż B-3/4
Wiejska C-4 (G-3)
Wierzbowa B-2 (F-2)
Wiktorska F/G-6
Wilanowska H-3
Wilcza B/C-4 (F/G-3/4)
Wileński pl. G-1
Willowa G-5
Winnicka D-5
Wioślarska H-3
Wiślana C-2
Wiślicka D-5/6
Wiśniowa F/G-5, F/G-6
Witosa, al. H-6/7
Wodna B-1
Wójtowska B-1
Wolność D-2
Wołoska E/F-6/7
Wolska D-3
Woronicza E/G-7
Wronia E-2/3
Wspólna A/C-4 (F-3)
Wybrzeże Gdańskie
B/C-1/2, (F-1)
Wybrzeże Helskie C-1 (G-1)
Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie
C-2, (G-1/2)
Wybrzeże Szczecińskie
C-1/2, (G-1/2)
Ząbkowska H-1
Zajęcza C-3 (G-2)
Zakroczymska B-1
Zamenhofa A-1/2 (E-1)
Zamkowy, pl. B-2 (F-1)
Zamoyskiego H-1
Zapiecek B-2
Zawiszy, pl. E-3
Zbawiciela, pl. F-4
Zbierska G/H-5/6
Zgoda B-3/4
Zieleniecka, al. H-1/2
Zielna B-3
Zimna A-3
Złota B-3, A/B-4 (E/F-3)
Zoli G-4
Zwycięzców H-3
Żelazna A-3/4 (E-2/3)
Żelaznej Bramy, pl. A/B-3 (F-2)
Żurawia B/C-4 (F/G-3)
Żwirki i Wigury D/E-4/7
Żytnia D-2
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Radisson Blu Sobieski Hotel
30
Residence St. Andrew's
Palace 33
Rialto 29
Sheraton Warsaw Hotel 29
Sleepwell Apartments 32
Sofitel Warsaw Victoria 29
Start Hotel Atos 32
Team Hostel 33
The Westin Warsaw Hotel 29
RESTAURANTS
Adler 39
Aioli Cantine 46
Atelier Amaro 50
Babooshka 54
Banja Luka 36
Bar Mleczny Familijny 46
Barn Burger 36
Besuto 48
Bierhalle 40
Biosfeera 57
Bistro Warszawa 50
Bordo 40
Brasserie Warszawska 41
Browar de Brasil 36
BrowArmia 41
Buddha Indian Restaurant 39
LISTINGS INDEX
Symbol Key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G No smoking
K Restaurant X Smoking room available
D Sauna C Swimming pool
E Live music W Wi-Fi
6 Animal friendly S Take away
I Fireplace J Old Town location
Y Tourist Card accepted
w Wellness
V Home delivery
Burger Bar 37
Butchery & Wine 55
C.K. Oberża 39
Café 6/12 36
Casa Pablo 54
Cesarski Pałac 37
Cesarski Pałac (Tsinghis
Chan) 50
Concept 41
DeCoteria 41
Delicja Polska 51
Dom Polski 51
Downtown Restaurant &
Steakhouse 55
Festa Italiana Ristorante 46
Five 41
Flow 42
Folk Gospoda 51
Frida 56
Fusion 38
Galeria Freta 42
GR Bistro & Restaurant 42
Grand Kredens 42
Green Bar 57
Halka restauracja po polsku
51
Hard Rock Cafe 34
Hard Rock Cafe 36
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino 38
China Garden 37
Chłopskie Jadło 51
Inaba 48
Kamanda Lwowska 57
Kiku Japanese Dining
Gallery 48
Kintaro Sushi 48
Kosmos Kosmos 42
La MaMa 34
La Rotisserie 38
Le Cedre 84 49
Legends British Bar &
Restaurant 36
Leniwa Gospodyni 46
Literatka 52
Little Thai Gallery 56
Masz Gulasz 52
McDonald's 36
Meat Love 43
Mleczarnia Jerozolimska 46
Na Zielnej 43
Nam Sajgon 57
Namaste India 39
Namaste India Clay Oven 39
Natara 56
Nolita 43
Nu Jazz Zone 47
Oberża Pod Czerwonym
Wieprzem 52
Ole Tapas Steak Restaurant
55
Olive Garden 49
Osteria 54
OTO!SUSHI 48
Papaya 57
Paros 49
Piękna 56 43
Piękna Bistro 43
Pierrogeria 52
Podwale - Kompania Piwna
44
Polka, Magda Gessler po
prostu 52
Prosta Historia 37
Radio Café 53
Rambam Kosher Cafe &
Restaurant 48
Restauracja Concept 13 44
Restauracja Kultura 44
December 2012 - January 2013
129

130
LISTINGS INDEX
Restauracja Różana 53
Restauracja Wilanów 44
Restaurant @Ferdy's 44
Restro 44
Roma 47
Roma Bukieteria 47
Saffron Spices 40
Saint Jacques 38
SAM Restaurant & Bakery
45
Sheesha Lounge 40
Sioux 34
Siriana 49
Skwer - filia Centrum
Artystycznego Fabryka
Trzciny 45
Słony 53
smaczneGO! 57
Socjal 45
Sol y Sombra 55
Solec 44 45
SomePlace Else 34
Sowa i Przyjaciele 45
STO900 46
Strauss Restaurant 53
Subway 36
T.G.I. Friday's 34
The Mexican 56
The Oriental 37
Theatro 38
Tomo Sushi 48
Trattoria Rucola 47
U Barssa 53
U Fukiera 54
U Kucharzy 54
U Szwejka 37
Warsaw Tortilla Factory 56
Wiking 46
You & Me 36
Zapiecek 54
Żurawina Rest & Wine 46
CAFÉS
Blikle Café 58
Bubbleology 58
Cafe Baguette 58
Cafe Próżna 58
Café Vincent 58
Chłodna 25 58
Coffee Karma 58
Costa by Coffee Heaven 58
Green Caffe Nero 58
Lody na Patyku 58
Loft 58
Ministerstwo Kawy 58
Karmello 59
Moments Tasty Life 59
Petit Appetit 59
Piękna Bistro - Espresso 59
Pijalnie Czekolady Wedel 59
Słodki Słony 59
Starbucks Coffee 59
To Lubię 59
Wawel 59
NIGHTLIFE
Bank Club 67
Beirut Hummus & Music Bar
60
Bierhalle 60
Bierhalle 69
Bollywood Lounge 67
British Bulldog Pub 60
BrowArmia 69
Bufet Centralny 60
Cafe Kulturalna 60
Club Capitol 67
Club Mirage 67
Coyote Bar & Night Club 71
de lite club 68
Dekada 68
Fabryka Trzciny 68
Foksal XVIII 68
Hard Rock Cafe 62
Hydrozagadka 62
Champions Sports Bar &
Restaurant 62
JP's Bar 62
Jung & Lecker 64
Kafefajka 62
Klaps 62
Kokomo 71
Konstytucja Klubokawiarnia
63
Kwadrat 63
Legends British Bar &
Restaurant 63
Legends British Bar &
Restaurant 64
Libido Gentleman's Club 71
Metro Jazz Bar & Bistro 65
New Orleans Gentlemen's
Club 71
Nu Jazz Zone 65
Opera 68
Organza 68
Panorama Bar & Lounge 63
Paparazzi 63
Pardon, To Tu 64
Patrick's Irish Pub 64
Piękna Bistro 65
Pies Czy Suka/Pure Bar 64
Plan B 64
Platinium Club 69
Features index
Ask your Concierge 30
Breakfast 36
Cemeteries 78
Climate 17
Credit Card Charges 116
Currency exchange 120
Disaster at Smolensk 29
Eating at a glance 34
Facts & Figures 17
Gestapo HQ 82
Hot Beer 57
Chocolate Lounges 59
Christmas in Poland 8
Jan III Sobieski 104
Kościuszko Monument 80
Krakowskie Przedmieście 1 76
Krakowskie Przedmieście 1 77
Language Smarts 19
Lodgings at a glance 28
Market Values 18
Milk Bars 46
National Holidays 19
Night at a glance 60
Palmiry 84
Polish Food 52
Polish Friends of Beer Party 62
Presidential Palace 83
Quick Currency Convertor 18
Ronald Reagan Monument 86
Rosa Luxembourg 79
Royal Castle 85
Shopping at a Glance 114
Smoking 53
Stanislaw Poniatowski 81
Street Signs 13
The Citadel 82
The Incomes House 54
Three Kings 54
Tipping Tribulations 51
Vice Advice 70
Warsaw Central Station 16
Warsaw Historical Timeline 73
Witold Pilecki 31
Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra 64
Room 13 Club & Lounge 69
Sheesha Lounge 65
Sketch 65
Skwer - filia Centrum
Artystycznego Fabryka
Trzciny 65
Sofia 71
SomePlace Else 64
SomePlace Else 65
Śródmiejska 65
The Eve Music Club 69
W Oparach Absurdu 66
Warsaw Tortilla Factory 64
Warsaw Tortilla Factory 66
Warszawa Powiśle 66
Watch Me 69
Znajomi Znajomych 66
Żurawina Rest & Wine 64
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com

We invite you to dinner on New Year’s Eve 2012/2013.
Dinner will be served in our stylish villa,
where the beautiful, intimate interior will soothe your eyes,
the fine cuisine will be nectar to your palate
and the warm atmosphere and live music will lift your spirits into the New Year.
On New Year’s Day we invite guests for Brunch at 14:00.
11 Francuska St., Warsaw, Ph. 22 616 24 32, 22 616 24 88
www.restauracjadompolski.pl