Warsaw November 28th - In Your Pocket
Warsaw November 28th - In Your Pocket
Warsaw November 28th - In Your Pocket
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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
WARSAW<br />
N°71<br />
Poland - 5zł (w tym 8% VAT)<br />
UK - £5<br />
EU (excl. Poland & UK) - €3<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1641-5264<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
The holiday<br />
season<br />
Celebrate the Polish way<br />
Copernicus<br />
Science Center<br />
Hands-on science<br />
made fun
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
WARSAW<br />
N°71<br />
Poland - 5zł (w tym 8% VAT)<br />
UK - £5<br />
EU (excl. Poland & UK) - €3<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1641-5264<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
The holiday<br />
season<br />
Celebrate the Polish way<br />
Copernicus<br />
Science Center<br />
Hands-on science<br />
made fun
4<br />
CONTENTS<br />
Contents<br />
Arrival & Transport 12<br />
The Basics 17<br />
Culture & Events 20<br />
Where to stay 28<br />
Dining 34<br />
Cafés 58<br />
Nightlife 60<br />
History 72<br />
Sightseeing<br />
What to see 75<br />
Palace of Culture and Science 87<br />
Old Town 88<br />
Praga 90<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Uprising 92<br />
Science is fun? We were skeptics once too until the Copernicus<br />
Science Center opened in 2010 on the banks of the<br />
Vistula River. <strong>In</strong>side you’ll find all manner of hands-on experiments,<br />
activities and games that make science come<br />
alive for even the youngest family members. The CSC<br />
celebrated their two millionth visitor in September, which<br />
should tell you how popular this 15,000 square metre<br />
attraction is. Learn the ins and outs of visiting the CSC on<br />
page 108. Photo: Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Christmas in Poland comes with a whole host of unique<br />
traditions that can baffle the average tourist. Fortunately<br />
we’ve broken it all down in our feature on page 8 so you<br />
can avoid any and all faux pas. Plus it’s a great time of<br />
year (if a cold one) to get out and explore all the seasonal<br />
cheer in <strong>Warsaw</strong>, including the Christmas market. Toss<br />
on your wooliest sweater and find out what the holidays<br />
in Poland are like firsthand. Photo © Piotr Wierzbowski,<br />
Courtesy of <strong>Warsaw</strong> Tourist Office<br />
Jewish <strong>Warsaw</strong> 96<br />
Treblinka 99<br />
Łazienki 100<br />
Wilanów 102<br />
Chopin 105<br />
Copernicus Science Centre 108<br />
Leisure 110<br />
Łódź<br />
Directory<br />
112<br />
Shopping 114<br />
Directory 120<br />
Maps & <strong>In</strong>dex<br />
City centre map 123<br />
City map 124<br />
Country map 126<br />
Street index 128<br />
Listings <strong>In</strong>dex 129<br />
Feature <strong>In</strong>dex 130<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
6<br />
FOREWORD<br />
If you’re picking this guide up in December then it’s<br />
probably not technically winter yet, even though<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> has already seen its first snowflakes and some<br />
plummeting temperatures, not to mention the painfully<br />
early sunsets that come with the impending time<br />
change. But none of the residents of Poland’s capital<br />
seem to mind these things as December also brings on<br />
a string of holidays that make some of the more painful<br />
aspects of the upcoming winter easy to overlook. You’ll<br />
notice the streets are awash in signs for mulled wine<br />
and hot beer, and Christmas decorations creep out<br />
earlier and earlier each year.<br />
So what’s different about celebrating the holidays in<br />
Poland? Our feature on page 8 gives you all the details,<br />
but lets just say it’s a little more serious (and a lot more<br />
cooking) than you’re probably used to. It’s also not just<br />
confined to Christmas day itself, as Poles also celebrate<br />
Trzech Kroli (Three Kings) on January 6 and Dzien<br />
Swietego Mikolaja (St. Nick) on December 6th.<br />
Outside of celebrating until you have to loosen your belt<br />
the city is awash in activities regardless of the season,<br />
and one of our favourites is a visit to the Copernicus<br />
Science Centre. This €93 glass and steel monster<br />
hugging the Vistula River is a modern hands-on place to<br />
get your science on, and one the kids will be amazed by.<br />
Experiments cover all age groups – even the wee ones<br />
get their own exhibitions in the Buzzz! section, which<br />
teaches shapes, colours and sounds to kids ages 3-6.<br />
When we’re not experimenting at the CSC we’re doing the<br />
essential research of scoping <strong>Warsaw</strong> for the best new<br />
bars and restaurants to recommend, and this issue is<br />
heaping with fresh ventures that get our thumbs up. Wine<br />
lovers who like to drink in a fashionable atmosphere will<br />
appreciate Zurawina Rest & Wine, while Meat Love not<br />
only gets our attention for having an amazing name but<br />
also a Belgian waffle topped with pulled pork and maple<br />
syrup – sounds so wrong, but it’s so very, very right.<br />
As always we sincerely hope you enjoy your time in<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> and the guide we’ve put together. Be sure to like<br />
us on Facebook (facebook.com/warsawinyourpocket)<br />
and follow us on Twitter (Twitter.com/warsawiyp)<br />
for all the latest on what’s happening in the city, and<br />
you can leave comments about all the venues listed<br />
here (and more) on our website at inyourpocket.com/<br />
Poland/<strong>Warsaw</strong>. And of course we welcome your direct<br />
feedback at editor_poland@inyourpocket.com.<br />
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Copyright notice<br />
Estonia<br />
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warsaw.inyourpocket.com
8<br />
CHRISTMAS IN POLAND<br />
Christmas to us always seems a little bit more ‘Christmasy’<br />
if you have both some good old fashioned tradition and a<br />
wintery climate in which to enjoy it. We’re clearly not the only<br />
ones as demonstrated by the insistence of film makers to<br />
conjure up snow covered streets in places like the UK (think<br />
Love Actually etc.) at Christmas time when the reality is a<br />
white Christmas in places like London come around once<br />
in a blue moon.<br />
Poland therefore is a much better bet for Christmas if that’s<br />
what you’re after with snow pretty much guaranteed and<br />
Christian traditions still the foundations upon which the<br />
whole holiday is celebrated. Despite the country having<br />
heartily bought into much of the West’s consumerism, this<br />
is still a place where tradition and particularly religious<br />
tradition maintains an important role in the lives of most<br />
(even those who have long since given up going to mass<br />
on a regular basis).<br />
So pull on your scarf, hat and gloves and get into the spirit of<br />
the season which has its own unique feel and traditions which<br />
may very well be foreign compared to what you are used to<br />
in your home country. Arm yourself with the Polish Christmas<br />
greeting - “Wesołych Świat i Szczęśliwego Nowego Roku!”<br />
(Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!) (Ve-so-wick shveeont<br />
ee shchen-shlee-vego No-vego Ro-koo) - and off you go.<br />
Advent<br />
<strong>In</strong> contrast to western coca-cola cultures, Christmas<br />
in Poland isn’t as much of a shameless celebration of<br />
consumerism. Here, the holiday season doesn’t kick off with<br />
slashed prices and stampedes outside department stores,<br />
but rather a sobering 24-day period called ‘Adwent’ during<br />
which Poles are expected to spiritually prepare for Christ’s<br />
coming by refraining from indulgences like partying, dancing<br />
and drinking; are encouraged to help the less fortunate,<br />
and, of course, to attend mass as much as possible. The<br />
supposed last day of partying takes place on the Feast of<br />
St. Andrew on <strong>November</strong> 29th, a celebration known here as<br />
‘Andrzejki’ with Advent beginning on December 1st. How<br />
strictly these church-established guidelines are followed is<br />
entirely up to the individual, and having a look around town<br />
you’d hardly guess the holidays were a time of self-restraint<br />
and supposed prohibition. But it does go to underline the<br />
fact that in comparison to the west, Poland really puts the<br />
‘Christ’ in Christmas; traditionally speaking, ‘capturing the<br />
holiday spirit’ denotes an embodiment of Christian ideals.<br />
Saint Nicholas’ Day<br />
With Christmas Day reserved for family and busy with the<br />
celebration of Christ, seasonal gift-giving chores have been<br />
mostly outsourced to Saint Nicholas (Święty Mikołaj) who<br />
unofficially gets the holiday season started when he comes<br />
three weeks earlier on December 6th – ‘Dzień Świętego<br />
Mikołaja’, or Saint Nicholas Day. <strong>In</strong> Polish tradition, Ol’ Saint<br />
Nick (or ‘Mick’ as the case may be) isn’t a portly pipe-smoker<br />
who lives at the North Pole, but an actual dignified saint who<br />
comes down from heaven in a rather regal purple and gold<br />
robe and bishop’s hat, carrying a crosier (you know, one of<br />
those staffs shaped like a candy-cane) on the anniversary<br />
of his death. <strong>In</strong> the run-up to Dzień Świętego Mikołaja, eager<br />
children write letters to the Saint requesting the one, maybe<br />
two (if they’ve been really good) gifts they most desire that<br />
year and put the letter outside on the windowsill so the old<br />
codger can drop by and pick up their request during the<br />
night. On the 6th, Polish children awake to discover Mikołaj’s<br />
good graces with a gift under their pillow or next to the bed.<br />
This is one of those days where the 123 years of partition<br />
The Christmas Market<br />
70 wooden stalls make up the Christmas fair in the<br />
capital, even former Russian President Medvedev<br />
visited in the past, so it must be worth a look. It’s an<br />
international affair with traders from Germany, Latvia,<br />
Slovakia, Austria and Croatia among others arriving.<br />
Come and sample the German Bratwurst and mulled<br />
wine, Polish pies from Mazuria, bakery products and cold<br />
cuts. There will be no shortage of music either, especially<br />
carols and, of course, a huge Christmas tree. We will<br />
also have the chance to enjoy international, national<br />
and regional presentations and buy culinary goodies,<br />
tourist offers and folk art. The Nativity Scene was built<br />
by the charity Aid to the Church in Need and they will<br />
be also selling souvenirs, Christmas decorations and<br />
devotional articles, something for everyone. With the<br />
beautiful old town square as the backdrop, this will be<br />
the best place for cutesy pictures while warming yourself<br />
with the delicious grzane wino (mulled wine). The fair will<br />
run until the feast of the Three Kings on January 6th.<br />
that the country was subjected to between 1795 and 1918<br />
become evident. <strong>In</strong> other parts of the country such as the<br />
Prussian partition which incorporated places like Gdansk<br />
the evening of December 5 th sees children cleaning their<br />
shoes and leaving them by the door or window to await<br />
St Nicholas’ visit where sweets are the traditional gift for<br />
those who have been good in the preceding 12 months.<br />
Christmas Eve<br />
December 24th – or ‘Wigilia’ as it’s called in PL - is one<br />
of the biggest feast days of the year and an important<br />
time to be with family. As such, though Wigilia is not a work<br />
holiday you can expect virtually every shop to close early<br />
and stay closed until the 27th, so arrange accordingly. <strong>In</strong><br />
the evening it’s tradition that those gathered to eat the<br />
vigil feast together first share the blessed Christmas wafer,<br />
called opłatek. <strong>In</strong> an intimate (and potentially awkward if<br />
you don’t speak Polish) moment, each person goes to the<br />
others in turn, making a blessing for their happiness in the<br />
coming year, breaking off a piece of the other person’s<br />
wafer and eating it, then sealing the deal with a kiss on<br />
the cheek. Once that formality is out of the way and the<br />
kids have spotted the first star in the sky, the feast can<br />
officially begin. Traditionally, bits of hay are spread beneath<br />
the tablecloth in honour of Jesus’ manger pedigree, and an<br />
extra place is set at the table in case of the arrival by the<br />
‘unexpected visitor,’ Baby Jesus himself or a deceased<br />
relative (whoever arrives first). Dinner consists of a gutbusting<br />
twelve courses – one for each of Jesus’ disciples<br />
– and because it’s meant to be meatless, the main dish is<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
<br />
U Fukiera, Warszawa, Rynek Starego Miasta asta 27,<br />
tel. 022 831 10 13, tel./fax 022 831 58 08 8<br />
www.ufukiera.pl<br />
Taste polish tradition<br />
an invitation from
10<br />
CHRISTMAS IN POLAND<br />
Przykuta/Wikipedia/CC-BY-SA 3.0<br />
traditionally carp, which apparently isn’t recognised as meat<br />
by Catholics (fish was Jesus’ favourite vegetable). <strong>In</strong> the<br />
days before Wigilia, large pools of carp – half writhing, half<br />
floating belly-up – can be found in the city’s supermarkets<br />
waiting to be purchased and brought home to the family<br />
bathtub where they are kept until it’s time for the man of<br />
the house to carve the carp and serve it cold. ‘Smacznego’<br />
(Bon Appetite) (smach-Ney-go). If you’re fortunate to have<br />
a good cook in the family the carp might also be prepared<br />
fried in breadcrumbs which goes some way to making it<br />
more edible in our opinion, though many Poles will argue<br />
that carp is a tasty dish – each to their own.<br />
Other traditional dishes include żurek and barszcz – the<br />
traditional soups, poppy-seed pastries, stuffed cabbage<br />
rolls (gołąbki), herring in oil, pickles and an assortment<br />
of other Polish salads and sides many also containing<br />
fish. The meal concludes with a round of belt-unbuckling,<br />
carol-singing and gift-unwrapping after the revelation that<br />
during the feast an angel has laid presents beneath the<br />
Christmas tree (Mikołaj also gets an off-day for Wigilia).<br />
Alcoholic abstinence is the Wigila tradition most commonly<br />
overlooked, however, at midnight, most families head out<br />
in the cold to attend pasterka, or midnight mass. It’s at<br />
this time that animals, some believe, take on human voices<br />
apparently.<br />
Christmas Day<br />
After morning mass, December 25th is reserved for<br />
visiting family and friends and the continuation of feasting<br />
(this time including meat and alcohol). <strong>In</strong> comparison to<br />
the west, while Christmas Day holds less importance and<br />
symbolism for Poles than Christmas Eve, it is still a public<br />
holiday and a time for family. Despite moves by many,<br />
particularly the younger generation, away from the Catholic<br />
church in recent years, Christmas is still viewed with more<br />
religious significance than you might expect in your own<br />
country and even those who might not attend mass on<br />
a regular basis anymore still respect the traditions of<br />
the holiday period. You can still expect the majority of<br />
bars and restaurants to be closed on Christmas Day and<br />
the Second Day of Christmas (December 26) but more<br />
businesses have begun to take advantage of the holiday<br />
period in recent years. You’ll find many of the better hotels<br />
offering special offers with some even offering to cook you<br />
a full Christmas dinner which they’ll deliver to your door.<br />
You can also expect ex-pat favourites like the <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
Tortilla Factory to be open for December 26th with all of<br />
the sport live on TV.<br />
New Year’s Eve<br />
December 31st is known locally as Sylwester, and on this<br />
last night of the year every bar, club, restaurant and hotel<br />
in town will be hosting an all night New Year’s Eve bash.<br />
Unfortunately, you have to pay to play and it’s wise to plan<br />
where you want to spend your evening since expensive tickets<br />
are required to enter most venues, and therefore pub crawling<br />
is not really an option. On page 25 we’ve given you a cursory list<br />
of some local New Year’s offers, but your celebratory options<br />
are literally limitless; make sure you do the work of finding<br />
something that will suit you and your friends.<br />
Three Kings Day<br />
The holiday of Three Kings or Trzech Króli (January 6th)<br />
marks the end of the Christmas season in impressive style<br />
throughout Poland. A wholly Catholic holiday, 3 Kings honours<br />
Kaspar, Melchior and Balthazar, the three wise men who visited<br />
Jesus at his birth. Celebrations range from small to grand but<br />
often include a parade welcoming the wise men, with characters<br />
passing out candy and children dressed in colours signifying<br />
Asia, Africa and Europe (the respective homelands of the wise<br />
men). Mass is also a compulsory part of the Three Kings holiday<br />
as well, with families picking up a piece of blessed chalk during<br />
the service that is taken home and used to write the year and<br />
the initials “KMB,” with a cross between each letter, above the<br />
front door. <strong>In</strong> some places this honour is reserved for a priest<br />
who visits during the holiday season, blessing the house for the<br />
coming year by inscribing the commonly seen ‘K + M + B 2013’<br />
(for a small donation of course).<br />
This tradition is said to protect the family from sickness and<br />
misfortune for the year. Fun is also had during the day’s feast<br />
when a Three Kings cake is served with either an almond or<br />
coin baked inside. Whoever is fortunate enough to land the<br />
surprise slice is considered king (or queen) for the day and lucky<br />
for the rest of the year. If your cake – which varies by region and<br />
can be anything from sponge to fruitcake – is decorated with<br />
a crown the lucky almond-eater gets the honour of wearing<br />
it. An additional reason to celebrate: <strong>In</strong> 2011 Parliament<br />
officially restored the date as a non-working national public<br />
holiday in Poland for the first time since it was cancelled by the<br />
communists 50 years earlier, so there’s no need to go work!<br />
The Polish holiday season doesn’t actually officially wrap<br />
up until February 2nd when Saint Nick sees his shadow and<br />
it’s agreed that every family should toss its Christmas tree.<br />
For more information about specific holiday happenings<br />
around this merry miasto, head to our Events section (page<br />
20) where we give you even more on The Great Christmas<br />
Illuminations, New Year’s Eve and the Great Orchestra<br />
of Christmas Charity; tis the season of giving, they say…<br />
© Piotr Wierzbowski, Courtesy of <strong>Warsaw</strong> Tourist Office<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com
12 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>-Modlin Mazovia Airport<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>-Modlin Airport (Port Lotniczy<br />
Warszawa/Modlin) ul. Gen. Wiktora Thommee<br />
1a, Nowy Dwór Mazowiecki, tel. (+48) 22 346 43<br />
60, www.modlinairport.pl. The brand new Modlin<br />
airport looks like a shiny tin can in a forest in the middle<br />
of nowhere, which is essentially what it is. Fortunately<br />
the inside is clean, modern and well-equipped to handle<br />
international travelers with plenty of prominent signage.<br />
After collecting your luggage from one of two belts and<br />
exiting into the main hall you’ll find all the services you<br />
could want: ATMs, an information desk, bathrooms, currency<br />
exchange, vending machines, four food points for<br />
more legitimate meals and car rental companies (though<br />
the airport’s newness has these folks operating from<br />
makeshift IKEA desks at the moment).<br />
Those looking to end up in <strong>Warsaw</strong> have three main options<br />
for transport into the city: grab a cab, take a bus<br />
to the capital, or board a shuttle that will take you to<br />
Modlin Train Station where you can take a train to your<br />
destination. Glob Taxi is currently offering transport<br />
from Modlin to the city center for 99zł during the week,<br />
and on weekends/after 22:00 it costs an additional<br />
30zl. Bus riders will find Modlin Bus bus company offering<br />
two routes from the airport: the first deposits<br />
travelers outside Warszawa Centralna train station at<br />
Al. Jerozolimskie 56C (a guarded parking) for 33zł, while<br />
the other drops you at the Młociny metro station for<br />
29zł (tickets can be purchased at the well-marked desk<br />
near the airport’s exit, and all buses are equipped with<br />
wi-fi). Translud also offers bus service to the center<br />
of <strong>Warsaw</strong> (you’ll be dropped across the street from<br />
the <strong>In</strong>tercontinental on Emili Plater) but it requires an<br />
annoying bus change at Modlin Twierdza pętla stop.<br />
You pay 1zl for the first portion of the trip and 8zl for<br />
the second bus into the city for a total of 9zl. For the<br />
schedule visit their website at www.translud.pl. The<br />
final option involves a 10-minute shuttle bus ride to the<br />
Modlin train station. The green and yellow buses pull up<br />
in front of the airport every 20 minutes, and drivers sell<br />
12zl “airport” tickets that cover your fare on the train as<br />
well. The brand new modern and air-conditioned Koleje<br />
Mazowieckie (“Elf”) trains take 45-60 minutes to reach<br />
Warszawa Centralna (note you need to board the trains<br />
that terminate at Frederick Chopin Airport in order to<br />
reach Centralna, and this train also stops at Warszawa<br />
Wschodnia). The earliest train departure for Centralna is<br />
05:57, while the last is at 00:20. For the latest schedule<br />
information visit www.mazowieckie.com.pl/en. Note that<br />
we’ve heard horror stories about transfers purchased via<br />
the airlines - namely no-show buses - so buyer beware.<br />
Modlin Train Station ul.<br />
Mieszka I 3, Nowy Dwór<br />
Mazowiecki, tel. (+48) 22<br />
364 44 44, www.mazowieckie.com.pl/en.<br />
Modlin<br />
train station has recently<br />
been renovated and is as<br />
sparklingly new as the airport itself. That said, you won’t<br />
find much beyond a waiting room, toilets and a ticket window<br />
so far. Food-wise you can’t get much more than snacks<br />
and coffee, but a newly-opened attached hostel called<br />
Zaczarowana Stacyjka is welcoming guests. The shuttle<br />
to Modlin Airport picks up and drops off passengers in<br />
the front of the station. Q Ticket office open 24hrs, with a<br />
break between 01:00 - 03:00 when no trains are running.<br />
While <strong>Warsaw</strong> is generally well linked with both the outside<br />
world and the rest of Poland, both road and rail networks<br />
are undergoing major regeneration work, in part thanks to<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>’s recent hosting of the Euro 2012 football championships.<br />
Improvement work also extends to the airport, and<br />
for the time being travellers more used to the streamlined<br />
transport links of the west may find both patience and nerves<br />
severely tested.<br />
By Car<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> is located in the heart of the country and has extensive<br />
road links with other major Polish cities. Having said<br />
that the competition on the road’s front isn’t fierce. Roads<br />
leading into <strong>Warsaw</strong> tend to be of decent dual carriageway<br />
standard, though once you enter the city limits <strong>Warsaw</strong> traffic<br />
can become a serious problem - particularly during the<br />
week. Most major hotels are located in the central area and<br />
you should be heading in most cases for the Central Train<br />
Station (Dworzec Warszawa Centralna) and its neighbour,<br />
the Palace of Culture (PKiN). Parking in the central area<br />
is generally available on-street where there are standard<br />
parking charges payable at roadside machines. Most major<br />
hotels will offer some form of off-road guarded parking. Be<br />
warned that Polish roads and Polish drivers are not the best<br />
especially if you have driven in western Europe.<br />
<strong>In</strong>deed, Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road<br />
fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the<br />
pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor<br />
road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different<br />
traffic and, most of all, drivers who have no consideration<br />
for anybody else result in the common sight of mangled car<br />
wrecks around the country. Police seem unwilling to control<br />
irresponsible driving, and don’t be surprised to see cars<br />
shooting through red lights, cutting each other up and staking<br />
a claim for the Formula 1 championship.<br />
The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between<br />
23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/<br />
hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways.<br />
Seat belts must be worn at all times and it is illegal for<br />
drivers to use hand-held mobile phones. Following the letter<br />
of the law all cars should be equipped with a first aid kit,<br />
warning triangle, fire extinguisher, rear mud flaps and right<br />
and left hand outside mirrors. Flouting the rules will cost<br />
you 200zł (for using a mobile), 100zł (not wearing a seat<br />
belt) and up to 500zł for speeding. The legal limit for drink<br />
driving is 0.2‰ blood/alcohol level. Put simply, if you’re<br />
driving, don’t drink.<br />
EU citizens may use their home driving licenses as long as<br />
they are valid, however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify<br />
the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will<br />
find their licenses invalid (though that hasn’t stopped anyone<br />
we know from driving their girlfriend’s car). Carry your license<br />
and passport at all times when driving.<br />
Since April 2007 it has been compulsory for headlights to be<br />
switched on at all times.<br />
Guarded Parking B-3, ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
Victoria Hotel).<br />
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By Bus<br />
If you come to <strong>Warsaw</strong> by bus, odds are you’ll be landing at the<br />
main bus station on Al. Jerozolimskie, while budget options like<br />
PolskiBus drop passengers off at Dworzec Autobusowy Metro<br />
Wilanowska, a short distance from the Metro Wilanowska stop.<br />
Main Bus Station (Dworzec Autobusowy Warszawa<br />
Zachodnia) D-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 144, tel. (+48) 703 40<br />
33 30, www.pksbilety.pl. Coaches arrive and depart - unless<br />
otherwise stated - from the <strong>Warsaw</strong> West Bus Station (Dworzec<br />
Autobusowy Warszawa Zachodnia). Find a currency exchange<br />
and two ATM (bankomat) machines located in the main hall.<br />
There is no Tourist <strong>In</strong>fo point, for the closest you’ll have to make<br />
the journey into the Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance<br />
from ul. Emill Plater). There’s a legitimate left-luggage operation,<br />
as well as five payphones located in one of the side corridors<br />
(though you’ll need to buy phone cards to use them). You can<br />
do that by visiting one of the Relay kiosks in the main hall. You’ll<br />
also be able to buy SIM cards, prepaid cards and transport<br />
cards from here. HALO taxis stand outside the entrance and<br />
will charge you about 20zł to the centre. Refuse a lift from any<br />
of the smiling unlicensed operators who offer you a lift. The<br />
bus running to the centre is found right across a busy highway<br />
and getting there is an adventure in itself seeing there are no<br />
signposts in the subway leading there. Basically from the main<br />
hall duck down under the sign saying Dworzec PKP, head down<br />
the stairs, turn right, follow the corridor to its conclusion, turn<br />
right again - you’ll see two stairwells leading to the surface. Take<br />
the left one and presto, there’s your bus stop. Confused? Not<br />
half as much as we were. Good work <strong>Warsaw</strong>. To get to Central<br />
Station take bus number 127, 130, 158 or 517. At night you’ll<br />
be needing and N35 or N85. The journey takes approximately<br />
15 minutes so buy a 2,60zł ticket valid for 20 minutes (3,40zł<br />
starting in January). Remember to validate your ticket on boarding.<br />
Q Ticket office open 05:30 - 22:00.<br />
PolskiBus ul. Puławska 145 (Dworzec Autobusowy<br />
Metro Wilanowska, s.14), www.polskibus.pl. Note<br />
that the <strong>Warsaw</strong>-Gdansk route leaves from Metro Młociny.<br />
Street Signs<br />
Every single street<br />
in <strong>Warsaw</strong> is clearly<br />
marked by a number<br />
of well-positioned and<br />
highly visible street<br />
signs. It is almost impossible to go more than 100<br />
metres in <strong>Warsaw</strong> without knowing what street you are<br />
on. What’s more, the signs are almost always colour<br />
coded: each area of the capital has its own colour. As<br />
a visitor you are most likely to see blue signs (for the<br />
south and south-central part of the city) and brown<br />
(for the northern part of the city centre, and Old Town).<br />
But there’s far more helpful information on those<br />
street signs than the mere street name, however. If<br />
you look closely, the vast majority of also include the<br />
numbers of the building in the block to which they are<br />
attached. What’s more, there will often be an arrow<br />
showing which way the numbers climb. As anyone<br />
looking for ul. Marszalkowska 135 (or such like) will<br />
know, <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s central boulevards are incredibly long,<br />
and knowing which way to go makes life much, much<br />
easier. Whoever it was who decided to invest in the<br />
street signs (and they have been up for some time<br />
now, certainly for more than a decade) we hope that<br />
they became rich and famous.<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT<br />
98<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
13
14 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT 15<br />
By Plane<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> has been fortunate when it comes to airports: the<br />
main hub, Chopin Airport, recently received a modern overhaul<br />
while budget carriers like Wizzair and Ryanair now have a place<br />
to call their own in the new Modlin Airport northwest of the capital.<br />
Both airports offer plenty of options for transportation and<br />
make accessing the city an impressively smooth endeavour.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Chopin Airport (Lotnisko Chopina w Warszawie)<br />
ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. (+48) 22 650 42 20, www.<br />
lotnisko-chopina.pl. <strong>Warsaw</strong> Frederick Chopin Airport (Port<br />
Lotniczy im. Fryderyka Chopina) has recently seen the opening<br />
of Zone CDE, a glass and steel giant that sits rather awkwardly<br />
next to the older Zone AB (which is currently under major renovation<br />
and therefore closed). Collectively they are called Terminal<br />
A, and the spacious CDE now handles all incoming and outgoing<br />
traffic. The hallway connecting the zones houses ATMs, exchange<br />
offices, tourist info, coffee shops and snack marts.<br />
Taxis<br />
The days when cash<br />
bells would ring whenever<br />
a cab driver would<br />
hear a foreign accent<br />
might have passed, but<br />
it’s still always better<br />
to ring ahead rather<br />
than just hailing a taxi<br />
in the street. <strong>In</strong> particular avoid drivers who hawk their<br />
services in the arrivals hall at the airport; we’ve heard<br />
plenty of horror stories.<br />
All the companies we list will usually have someone on<br />
their switchboard who can speak English. MPT, the staterun<br />
firm, can boast the most reliable reputation. But you<br />
won’t find many cheaper than Super Taxi. Find ELE taxis<br />
on the Marriott tower side of the central station; it’s the<br />
second row of cars. Tipping is not expected, but if your<br />
driver gets you from A to B without a detour through the<br />
countryside then by all means, feel free<br />
Ele Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 811 11 11, www.eletaxi.pl.<br />
Halo Taxi O’K, tel. (+48) 22 196 23,<br />
www.halotaxiok.pl.<br />
Merc Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 677 77 77,<br />
www.6777777.pl.<br />
MPT, tel. (+48) 22 191 91, www.taximpt.pl.<br />
Sawa Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 644 44 44,<br />
www.sawataxi.com.pl.<br />
Super Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 196 22,<br />
www.supertaxi.pl.<br />
The taxi rank outside exits 1 and 2 offers three certified companies:<br />
Super Taxi, Sawa Taxi and Ele Taxi. The 15-30 minute<br />
ride to the centre costs around 25-40 złoty, though be on guard<br />
for unlicensed sharks - they’ll charge three or four times that.<br />
Cheapskates can catch the brand new train into the city or<br />
get bus number 175.<br />
The train station can be found underground by turning right<br />
outside of whichever arrivals area you leave from and going<br />
all the way to the end of the covered section where you will<br />
find escalators taking you down to ticket booths. Routes S2<br />
and S3C will take you Centralna train station, while S3S will<br />
take you to Śródmieście station in the city center. Trains are<br />
due to run 4 times per hour. Be sure to validate your ticket,<br />
which costs 3.60zł and will increase to 4.40zł in January, in<br />
the ‘kasowniks’ upon boarding. Bus stops can be found in<br />
front of arrivals at Zone AB and Zone CDE. Tickets for the<br />
bus are also 3.60zł (which will also increase to 4.40zł in January,<br />
and be sure to validate). Buses run frequently between<br />
05:05 and 23:05 with journey time taking approximately<br />
25 minutes. At night when the 175 stops running travelers<br />
can take the N32 night bus, which runs every 30 minutes.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Shuttle, tel. (+48) 506 17 54 95, www.warsawshuttle.com.<br />
The company offers private airport transfer<br />
services at competitive prices from 99PLN per run. Highest<br />
quality for the best possible price. Call in advance to book.<br />
Warszawa Lotnisko Chopina Train Station ul. Żwirki<br />
i Wigury 1 (Airport). The new railway station connecting the<br />
airport and the city centre can be found by exiting the arrivals<br />
hall in either terminal and turning right. The underground<br />
station can be accessed by escalators found just after the<br />
covered area outside the terminals. See ‘By Plane’ for information<br />
on train destinations, ticket prices and frequency.<br />
By Train<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>’s main train station, Centralna, is a hulking metal<br />
giant that sits conveniently in the city’s center and is the main<br />
hub for trains arriving in the capital. Additionally passengers<br />
may disembark at the smaller Warszawa Wschodnia on the<br />
eastern side of the Vistula river between Praga Polnoc and<br />
Praga Południe districts, and Warszawa Zachodnia on the<br />
border of Ochota and Wola districts to the west of the city.<br />
Warszawa Wschodnia Train Station H-1, ul. Kijowska<br />
8, tel. (+48) 197 57. Q Open 24hrs. Note that<br />
due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be<br />
made between 00:00 - 01:00.<br />
Warszawa Zachodnia Train Station D-4, ul.<br />
Tunelowa 1, tel. (+48) 197 57. Q Ticket office open 24<br />
hours. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations<br />
cannot be made between 00:00 - 01:00.<br />
Car rental<br />
Avis ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1<br />
(Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 48<br />
72, www.avis.pl. Avis provide<br />
short-term and long-term rentals,<br />
chauffeur drive service as well as cargo van rentals. There’s<br />
over 1,000 models available, equipped with air-conditioning,<br />
air bags and ABS for your guaranteed comfort and safety.<br />
Also possible to exchange and swap cars. Also at Al. Jerozolimskie<br />
65/79 (B-4, Marriott Hotel) and ul. Łopuszańska<br />
12a (Włochy). QOpen 07:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00.<br />
Budget ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650<br />
40 62, www.budget.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.<br />
Europcar ul. Żwirki<br />
i Wigury 1 (Airport),<br />
tel. (+48) 22 650 25<br />
64, www.europcar.pl. One of the worlds biggest car<br />
rental companies offers rental solutions tailor made for<br />
travellers (both short and long term) that will suit all needs<br />
(15 different categories of cars are available; Europcar is<br />
present at all Polish airports and many other convenient<br />
locations). Europcar creates flexible driving solutions to<br />
meet your individual mobility needs. Note that the Radisson<br />
Blue Sobieski is a meeting point (cars can be picked up and<br />
dropped off here). There’s also an office at the new Modlin<br />
Airport. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.<br />
Dollar Thrifty Rent a Car ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport),<br />
tel. (+48) 668 66 33 00, www.dollar-rentacar.<br />
com.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.<br />
Hertz ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650<br />
28 96, www.hertz.com.pl. Also at (F-3) ul. Nowogrodzka<br />
27 (Open 09:00 - 15:00, Mon, Fri 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat,<br />
Sun.) QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.<br />
Joka D-2, ul. Okopowa<br />
47, tel. (+48)<br />
609 18 10 20,<br />
www.joka.com.pl.<br />
A wide range of cars from the baby Fiat Panda to the<br />
spacious Mercedes E200 CDi station wagon. All cars<br />
are equipped with power assisted steering. Satellite<br />
navigation systems are also available. Special rates<br />
offered to those who order through the Joka website,<br />
and go online to find the latest seasonal promotions. Q<br />
Open 09:00-17:00, Sat 09:00-12:00. Outside of these<br />
hours open on request.<br />
Sixt ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1<br />
(Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650<br />
20 31, www.sixt.pl. One of<br />
the world’s largest and oldest<br />
car rental companies offers a choice of solutions from<br />
short and long rental periods to holiday cars. There’s<br />
even a fleet of limousines if you’re interested. Vehicles<br />
range from Seats to luxury Mercedes. Bonuses include<br />
GPS and Sixt cards. Also at ul. Emilii Plater 49 (A-4,<br />
<strong>In</strong>terContinental Hotel). QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.<br />
Local Rent A Car B-3, ul. Marszałkowska 140, tel.<br />
(+48) 501 21 61 93, www.lrc.com.pl. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
16 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT<br />
Warszawa Centralna<br />
Warszawa Centralna Train Station A/B-4, Al.<br />
Jerozolimskie 54, tel. (+48) 197 57. <strong>Warsaw</strong> Central<br />
Station (Warszawa Centralna) is exactly what it says on<br />
the tin: central. And thanks to recent renovations we’re<br />
happy to say it’s now easy to navigate as well. Centralna<br />
is looking better than it ever has with new storefronts and<br />
modern upgrades that will impress those who’ve been<br />
away for a while. From alighting the train you should take<br />
one of the two facing escalators (if they’re working) in the<br />
centre of the platform, which will lead you up into one of the<br />
underground passages that flank the main hall. Whichever<br />
side you come up on you will be one level below ground level<br />
and the ticket hall. Kantors can be found in the underground<br />
passageway between Centralna and the Marriott. Signs<br />
for ATMs (bankomats) are everywhere, and though once<br />
sparse the machines can be spotted at almost every turn.<br />
Tourist info can be found across the street at the Palace<br />
of Culture - just look for the ‘i’ sign (Open 08:00-18:00).<br />
They can provide you with maps, etc. Tickets for the<br />
public transport system can be bought from most of<br />
the newspaper kiosks. Left luggage is located in the<br />
underground corridor that runs below the main hall.<br />
Look for Przechowalnia Bagażu, where stewards will<br />
look after your bag, or opt for one of the plentiful lockers.<br />
Payphones can be found in the underground tunnels with<br />
cards available from all the kiosks. Connect to a Polish<br />
network via mobile by getting SIM and pre-paid cards<br />
from the same newsagents.<br />
Both entrances of the main hall are covered by taxi<br />
ranks, and by passing via tunnels under the main road<br />
you’ll find bus and tram stops though once you enter the<br />
signs are more of a hinderance than a help and you may<br />
never be seen or heard of again. Officially sanctioned ELE<br />
taxis can be found at the rank on Aleje Jerozolimskie and<br />
SAWA taxis can be found rank on the Złote Tarasy side.<br />
On the ground level there is a travel office run by Polish<br />
rail. Find it on the Złote Tarasy side of the building to the<br />
right of the stairs heading down to the platforms under<br />
the Centrum Obslugi Klienta sign (info line 197 57, www.<br />
intercity.pl). Open from 09:00 - 20:00, the multi-lingual<br />
staff (they can even assist the deaf) can search for the<br />
cheapest/easiest connection, sell you international and<br />
domestic tickets, and can help plan your trip for you.<br />
The selection of outlets selling food and drink at Centralna<br />
has improved dramatically with the renovations. Head to<br />
Green Coffee, Starbucks or Coffee Heaven for a range of<br />
good coffee or hot and cold snacks which are available to<br />
takeaway while McDonalds can also be found by following<br />
one of the many signs. If you have time to kill, Champions<br />
in the Marriott can be reached via the underground<br />
passageway and offers a far better place to sit and wait<br />
than the station itself, as does the nearby Złote Tarasy<br />
shopping centre. Don’t be alarmed to find Warszawa<br />
Centralna used as a drop-in centre by <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s homeless<br />
population - while most are harmless some like to pass<br />
their time being drunk and abusive. Bizarrely, while the<br />
Polish rail staff manning the ticket booths are mono-lingual<br />
(try booths number 14 and 16, which now claim Englishspeaking<br />
staff), the tramps in Centralna seem adept at<br />
begging in a multitude of tongues. Q Open 24hrs. Note<br />
that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot<br />
be made between 00:00 - 01:30.<br />
Public Transport<br />
www.ztm.waw.pl. <strong>Warsaw</strong> has an extensive bus and tram<br />
system criss-crossing the city as well as a good, but very<br />
limited, metro system running from north to south. Over<br />
1,200 buses operate in and around the city, and most run<br />
from between 05:00 and 23:00. After that night buses run<br />
on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the<br />
letter N, followed by a two digit number. ‘Fast buses’ (marked<br />
with red digits) skip the smaller stops.<br />
Tickets (all valid for use on metro, bus and tram) can be<br />
bought from some kiosks bearing the green and yellow RUCH<br />
logo, or anywhere with a sign reading Bilety. There are now<br />
also a series of ticket machines with instructions in English<br />
dotted around the city, and English translations are printed on<br />
tickets.To save yourself the hassle of working out which ticket<br />
you need or trying to buy to explain it to the lady in the kiosk.<br />
A standard public transport single ticket costs 3.60zł but<br />
will increase to 4.40zł in the new year. If you’re travelling to<br />
the further reaches of <strong>Warsaw</strong> you’ll be needing a ticket that<br />
covers both zones 1 and 2 - these are priced at 5.60zł (7zł<br />
starting in January). Note that the airport is in Zone 1. Still with<br />
us? Good. Tickets are also available for specific time periods<br />
and come valid for 20, 40 and 60 minutes. These are priced at<br />
2,60zł, 3,80zł and 5,20zł (which will increase to 3.40zł, 4.60zł<br />
and 6.40zł respectively in the new year). Tickets valid for 24<br />
hrs are priced at 12 or 19zł (15zł and 19zł with the January<br />
increase) if travelling through both zones. Three day tickets<br />
cost 24zł, or 38zł for both zones (30zł and 48zł starting January<br />
1). Children up to the age of 7 years travel for free (have<br />
proof of age ID handy). Everyone else pays full fare unless in<br />
possession of an ISIC card. This entitles you to buy a reduced<br />
ticket (ulgowy) which costs approximately 50% of the full fare.<br />
You can buy single tickets from the driver, though you must<br />
have exact change. Once you’ve got a ticket you will need to<br />
validate it in one of the box-style kasowniks, thus activating<br />
the magnetic strip on the back. On the metro this must be<br />
done before you get on board. It is no longer necessary to<br />
buy an extra ticket for animals<br />
or large pieces of luggage.<br />
Plain clothes ticket inspectors<br />
regularly stalk the lines, dishing<br />
out 180zł fines (which jump to<br />
220zł in the new year) for those<br />
without valid tickets. They often<br />
don’t look very official and you<br />
are within your rights to request<br />
identification, or even do as<br />
the locals do, and attempt to<br />
bargain them down.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Facts & Figures<br />
Territory<br />
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers<br />
and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders<br />
the Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic<br />
Sea (528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km),<br />
Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian<br />
exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and,<br />
Ukraine (529km).<br />
Longest River<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> is split by the river Vistula (Wisła). At 1,047km it<br />
is Poland’s longest river and flows into the Bay of Gdańsk<br />
(Zatoka Gdańska).<br />
Highest Point<br />
The highest peak in Poland is Rysy (2,499 metres) found<br />
in the Tatra mountains in the south of Poland.<br />
Population (2011)<br />
Poland: 38,538,447<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>: 1,708,491<br />
Kraków: 759,137<br />
Łódź: 728,892<br />
Wrocław: 631,235<br />
Poznań: 554,696<br />
Gdańsk: 460,517<br />
Katowice: 310,764<br />
Local time<br />
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone<br />
(GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in <strong>Warsaw</strong> it’s 11:00 in<br />
London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo.<br />
Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the<br />
last Sundays of March and October.<br />
Climate<br />
Poland has a temperate climate with hot summers and<br />
cold winters. Seasons tend to be more pronounced than<br />
in the west and temperatures can get down as low as -20<br />
C in winter and as high as +30 C in summer. The coldest<br />
weather tends to hit around February although the long<br />
winter of 2009/10 saw a record low temperature in Poland<br />
of -32 degrees. Below is a graphic showing average<br />
temperatures and rainfall.<br />
Customs<br />
If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take<br />
10 litres of spirits, 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer.<br />
Most countries will not allow more than 800 cigarettes from<br />
Poland. If purchasing art or books, you need to consider their<br />
age and value. <strong>In</strong> order to leave the country, art must be both<br />
less than 50 years old and under a certain value (varies<br />
depending by type; photos ‹6,000zł, other art ‹14,000zł, for<br />
example); if these conditions are met, the gallery curator can<br />
then provide you with a ‘zaświadczenie’ (permission document)<br />
describing the artwork’s price and when and where it<br />
was created. If the work exceeds the permitted age or value,<br />
you must get permission from the ‘Wojewódzki Konserwator<br />
Zabytków’ (Regional Curator’s Office) to take it out of Poland;<br />
bear in mind that this process will likely take 2-3 months.<br />
Books must be less than 100 years old and under 6,000zł in<br />
value in order to leave the country; if neither applies, permission<br />
must be obtained from the National Library. Obviously,<br />
problems arise when purchases are made at bazaars or flea<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
BASICS<br />
markets where vendors cannot provide the necessary documents;<br />
if there is any doubt about the value or age of your<br />
purchase, we suggest you visit an ‘Antykwariat’ (antiques<br />
dealer - see shopping) for advice.<br />
Electricity<br />
Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round<br />
with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from<br />
the UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug<br />
convertor. The best place to pick these up is at home as our<br />
residents Brits will testify although if you do arrive without<br />
a covertor you can try your hotel concierge or reception. If<br />
they don’t have one the best place to pick one up is at one<br />
of the big electrical outlets often situated on the edge of<br />
town. Our advice is save yourself the hassle and get one in<br />
the airport as you leave.<br />
Health & Emergency<br />
<strong>In</strong> case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or<br />
public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for an<br />
ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the police.<br />
Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded to the<br />
relevant department. English speaking assistance is not<br />
necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic capabilities<br />
of the operator.<br />
Between June 1st and September 30th English, German and<br />
Russian speakers have the option of using a separate line<br />
specifically designed for foreigners in distress: dial 800 200<br />
300 from a land-line or 608 599 999 from a mobile phone<br />
for troubles during high-tourist season.<br />
If you’ve woken up to find you’ve got a raging headache, a<br />
swollen foot you can’t put weight on and vague memories of<br />
some kind of calamity we suggest you sort it out by calling<br />
a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously<br />
long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clinics can<br />
be found in the Directory in the back of this guide. Further<br />
help can be provided by embassies and consulates, a list<br />
of which can also be found in the Directory. If it’s a financial<br />
emergency your hopes will rest on a Western Union money<br />
transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus (kantors)<br />
can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out<br />
for the Western Union logo.<br />
For a list of clinics and hospitals check the directory section<br />
at the back of this guide.<br />
Climate<br />
Rainfall (mm)<br />
80<br />
70<br />
60<br />
50<br />
40<br />
30<br />
20<br />
10<br />
0<br />
Rainfall<br />
Temperature<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12<br />
<strong>In</strong>stitute of Meteorology and Water Management,<br />
www.imgw.pl<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
20<br />
18<br />
16<br />
14<br />
12<br />
10<br />
8<br />
6<br />
4<br />
2<br />
0<br />
Temperature (°C)<br />
17
18 BASICS BASICS 19<br />
Market values<br />
Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite<br />
increases over the last couple of years particularly in<br />
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday<br />
products and prices.<br />
Market values as of <strong>November</strong> 23, 2012<br />
based on €1 = 4.07zł<br />
Product Price (zł) Price (€)<br />
McDonald's Big Mac 9.10 zł € 2.24<br />
Snickers 1.89 zł € 0.46<br />
0.5ltr vodka (shop) 20.90 zł € 5.14<br />
0.5ltr beer (shop) 3.24 zł € 0.80<br />
0.5ltr beer (bar) 9.00 zł € 2.21<br />
Loaf of white bread 2.89 zł € 0.71<br />
20 Marlboros 12.60 zł € 3.10<br />
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.92 zł € 1.45<br />
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 3.60 zł € 0.88<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternet<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternet access is typically free and widely available in Poland,<br />
with practically every café and restaurant offering wi-fi to<br />
customers with laptops and smartphones. Getting on the<br />
network often requires nothing more than a password, which<br />
you can request of your favorite bartender or barista with a<br />
simple, “Poproszę o hasło do internetu” If you don’t have<br />
your own gadgets we offer a few <strong>In</strong>ternet cafe options below.<br />
Arena B-4, Pl. Defilad 1 (Metro Station Center), tel.<br />
(+48) 22 620 80 32. Also at (F-4) Pl. Konstytucji 5. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. 6zł/hour, 10zł/2 hours,<br />
18zł/4 hours.<br />
Cyber Cafe ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (in Courtyard by Marriott),<br />
tel. (+48) 22 650 01 72, www.courtyardwarsawairport.com.<br />
Poland’s best internet cafe. Seating sixty people<br />
the Courtyard Cyber Cafe offers high-speed wireless access,<br />
as well as a menu that puts most <strong>Warsaw</strong> cafes to shame.<br />
20zł per hour. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.<br />
Law & Order<br />
<strong>In</strong> general <strong>Warsaw</strong> is far safer than most Western cities, and<br />
visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does<br />
exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets<br />
working tram and bus routes by the train station. If you’re<br />
in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser<br />
pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those<br />
travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park.<br />
Avoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi gits by using<br />
clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind around<br />
the train station and airport. The officially sanctioned state<br />
company MPT (tel. 22 19191) is possibly the best bet, and<br />
their switchboard features English speaking operators. The<br />
vagrants and pondlife who gather around the train station are<br />
by in large harmless and easily ignored. <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s right bank<br />
has traditionally enjoyed something of a no-go reputation,<br />
though is now fast becoming ever more trendy.<br />
Staying on the right side of the law is significantly easier for<br />
tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket<br />
fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to make an<br />
idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in front of the law.<br />
<strong>In</strong> recent years visitors ranging from folks in Chewbacca<br />
costumes to complete fools who’ve thought it’s perfectly acceptable<br />
to drop trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain<br />
have tested the patience of the local law enforcement. Their<br />
tolerance threshold is now decidedly low so don’t push your<br />
luck. Those who do may well be treated to a trip to <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s<br />
premier drunk tank (ul. Kolska 2/4), a chastening experience<br />
which will set you back 250zł for a 6-24 hour stay. <strong>In</strong> return<br />
for your cash expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas<br />
and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Those<br />
resisting arrest may well find themselves strapped down<br />
to a bed, One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest-style. Refreshment<br />
comes in the form of limitless coffee, though the mug<br />
sometimes comes with a smell of urine for a reason. Credit<br />
cards not accepted.<br />
The other well-known ways tourists can cross cops is by<br />
jaywalking. If you are from a country which has no (or doesn’t<br />
respect) jaywalking laws, you’ll be surprised to see a crowd<br />
of people standing obediently at a crossing waiting for the<br />
lights to change. This peculiarity has extra effect if you are<br />
aware of how little Poles respect the rules of the road in a<br />
vehicle, where it often feels like a survival of the fittest. The<br />
reason for the obedience of this particular rule is the fact that<br />
the local city police (Straż Miejska) will quite freely give you a<br />
100zł fine for crossing a road at a place where no crossing<br />
is marked or a 100zł fine when the ‘walk’ light is red. And<br />
don’t think you are exempt by being a foreign visitor. You are<br />
subject to the law too and your non-residency means you will<br />
need to pay the fine on the spot.<br />
Money<br />
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the<br />
100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops,<br />
newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional fast food<br />
franchise and bar, will refuse to break a large note for you.<br />
As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for such<br />
moments. Notes come in denominations of 200, 100, 50,<br />
20 and 10 złotys, and there are 1, 2 and 5 złoty coins. One<br />
złoty equals 100 groszy which come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and<br />
50 groszy coins.<br />
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and<br />
anywhere with a sign proclaiming it to be a Kantor and you<br />
will also be able to withdraw currency at a bankomat using<br />
your ATM card. A Kantor will often provide better value than<br />
the banks in your home country or the ATM although for<br />
obvious reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports,<br />
bus stations and close to tourist sights. Shopping around<br />
will reward you with the best rate. The Polish currency has<br />
been exceedingly strong in recent years and the value of<br />
Quick Currency Convertor<br />
PLN US$ Euro Pound<br />
3.16zł = $1 4.07zł = €1 5.04zł = £1<br />
1 zł $0.32 € 0.25 £0.20<br />
2 zł $0.63 € 0.49 £0.40<br />
3 zł $0.95 € 0.74 £0.60<br />
4 zł $1.27 € 0.98 £0.79<br />
5 zł $1.58 € 1.23 £0.99<br />
6 zł $1.90 € 1.47 £1.19<br />
7 zł $2.22 € 1.72 £1.39<br />
8 zł $2.53 € 1.97 £1.59<br />
9 zł $2.85 € 2.21 £1.79<br />
10 zł $3.16 € 2.46 £1.98<br />
20 zł $6.33 € 4.91 £3.97<br />
50 zł $15.82 € 12.29 £9.92<br />
100 zł $31.65 € 24.57 £19.84<br />
150 zł $47.47 € 36.86 £29.76<br />
200 zł $63.29 € 49.14 £39.68<br />
250 zł $79.11 € 61.43 £49.60<br />
1 000 zł $316.46 € 245.70 £198.41<br />
National Holidays<br />
December 25 First Day of Christmas<br />
December 26 Second Day of Christmas<br />
January 1, 2013 New Year’s Day<br />
January 6, 2013 Three Kings<br />
March 31, 2013 Easter Sunday<br />
April 1 Easter Monday<br />
May 1 Labour Day<br />
May 3 Constitution Day (May 3, 1791)<br />
May 19, 2013 Pentecost Sunday<br />
May 30, 2013 Corpus Christi<br />
August 15 Assumption of the Blessed Virgin<br />
Mary, also Polish Army Day<br />
<strong>November</strong> 1 All Saints’ Day<br />
<strong>November</strong> 11 <strong>In</strong>dependence Day (Nov 11, 1918)<br />
the dollar has nearly halved while you will be getting 25-<br />
40% less złoty for your euros and sterling than a couple of<br />
years back. Having said that prices for food, drink, cultural<br />
venues and transport still remain comparatively cheap<br />
in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the theatre or<br />
cinema will rarely cost more than 20zł while admission to<br />
most museums costs around 5-10zł.<br />
Post<br />
Central Post Office (Urząd Pocztowy Warszawa<br />
1) A-3, ul. Świętokrzyska 31/33, tel. (+48) 22 505 33<br />
20, www.poczta-polska.pl. Q Open 24hrs.<br />
Post Office (Urząd Pocztowy Warszawa 15) C-4,<br />
Pl. Trzech Krzyży 13, tel. (+48) 22 629 72 69, www.<br />
poczta-polska.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Religion<br />
For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of<br />
Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions<br />
and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national<br />
unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many<br />
turned to the church for solace and during the communist<br />
era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously<br />
held in churches.<br />
The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine<br />
source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more<br />
profound than cynics in the West can understand. Many Poles<br />
genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly started<br />
the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe.<br />
Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholicism<br />
very seriously. Those used to the more easy-going habits of<br />
the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at<br />
first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that<br />
occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass.<br />
Toilets<br />
Generally speaking toilets in Poland come marked with a<br />
circle for women, and a triangle for men. Although the habit<br />
is gradually dying some restaurants and bars still charge<br />
a nominal fee for use of their facilities - no matter how<br />
much cash you’ve already spent in the establishment. This<br />
is a practice also used in train stations and most public<br />
conveniences.<br />
2theloo A/B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 54 (Warszawa Centralna<br />
Train Station), www.2theloo.com.<br />
Toilet C-4, ul. Krucza 51.<br />
Toilet B-1, ul. Krzywe Koło 22/24.<br />
Language Smarts<br />
Many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy<br />
command of the English language. Many are also<br />
adept at other European languages with German being<br />
the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will fiercely<br />
contest that they have ’forgotten’ the Russian taught<br />
to them at school but most will still have a reasonable<br />
understanding.<br />
Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal,<br />
often resulting in personal degradation as shop<br />
assistants laugh at your flustered attempts. That aside,<br />
learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in<br />
Kraków and may even win you friends and admirers.<br />
On the downside, Polish is one of the most difficult<br />
languages for native English speakers to learn. On the<br />
upside, unlike in English, words in Polish are spelled<br />
the way they are pronounced. This is a great help once<br />
you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of<br />
letters. While many letters represent the same sounds<br />
as they do in English, below we have listed those<br />
particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and<br />
phrases. Powodzenia (good luck)!<br />
Basic pronunciation:<br />
’ą’ sounds like ’on’ in the French ’bon’<br />
’ę’ sounds like ’en’ as in the French ’bien’<br />
’ó’ is an open ’o’ sound like ’oo’ in ’boot’<br />
’c’ like the ’ts’ in ’bits’’<br />
’j’ like the ’y’ in ’yeah’<br />
’w’ is pronounced like the English ’v’<br />
’ł’ like the ’w’ in ’win’<br />
’ń’ like the ’ny’ in ’canyon’<br />
’cz’ and ’ć’ like the ’ch’ in ’beach’<br />
’dz’ like the ’ds’ in ’beds’<br />
’rz’ and ’ż’ like the ’su’ in ’treasure’<br />
’sz’ and ’ś’ like the ’sh’ in ’ship’<br />
’drz’ like the ’g’ in ’George’<br />
’r’ is always rolled<br />
Yes Tak (Tahk)<br />
No Nie (Nyeh)<br />
Hi/Bye (informal) Cześć (Cheshch)<br />
Hello/Good day<br />
(formal)<br />
Dzień dobry (Jen doh-bri)<br />
Good evening<br />
(formal)<br />
Dobry wieczór (Doh-bri vyeh-choor)<br />
Good-bye Do widzenia (Doh veet-zen-ya)<br />
Good Night Dobranoc (Doh-brah-noats)<br />
Please Proszę (Prosheh)<br />
Thank you Dziękuję (Jen-koo-yeh)<br />
Excuse me/Sorry Przepraszam (Psheh-prasham)<br />
My name is... Mam na imię... (Mam nah ee-myeh…)<br />
I’m from England. Jestem z Anglii (Yehstem zanglee)<br />
Do you speak Czy mówisz po (Che moo-veesh po<br />
English? angielsku? an-gyel-skoo?)<br />
I don’t speak Nie mówię po (Nyeh moo-vyeh po<br />
Polish.<br />
polsku.<br />
pol-skoo.)<br />
I don’t understand. Nie rozumiem. (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)<br />
Two beers, please. Dwa piwa proszę. (Dvah peevah prosheh.)<br />
Cheers! Na zdrowie! (Nah zdrovyeh!)<br />
Where are the<br />
toilets?<br />
Gdzie są toalety? (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih)<br />
You are beautiful. Jesteś piękna. (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)<br />
I love you. Kocham cię. (Ko-hahm chuh.)<br />
Please take me Proszę zabierz mnie (Prosheh za-byesh<br />
home.<br />
do domu. mnyeh doh doh-moo.)<br />
Call me! Zadzwoń do mnie! (Zads-dvoan doh<br />
mnyeh!)<br />
Airport Lotnisko (Lot-nees-ko)<br />
Train station Dworzec PKP (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)<br />
Bus station Dworzec PKS (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah<br />
Ess)<br />
One ticket to… Jeden bilet do… (Yeh-den bee-let doh…)<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
20 CULTURE & EVENTS<br />
Art galleries<br />
Klima Bocheńska’s Gallery (Galeria Klimy<br />
Bocheńskiej) H-1, ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, tel. (+48)<br />
601 51 17 13, www.bochenskagallery.pl.QOpen<br />
12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.<br />
Admission free.<br />
Kordegarda B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 15/17,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 421 01 25, www.kordegarda.org.Q Open<br />
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Stairs Gallery (Galeria Schody) C-3, ul. Nowy Świat<br />
39, tel. (+48) 22 828 89 43, www.galeriaschody.pl.<br />
Q Open 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.<br />
The Place of the Zachęta Project C-3, ul.<br />
Gałczyńskiego 3, tel. (+48) 22 826 01 36, www.zacheta.art.pl.QOpen<br />
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.<br />
Zachęta National Gallery of Art (Zachęta Narodowa<br />
Galeria Sztuki) B-3, Pl. Małachowskiego 3,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta.art.pl.QOpen<br />
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł, Thu free.<br />
Cinemas<br />
Femina A-2, Al. Solidarności 115, tel. (+48) 22 654<br />
45 45, www.helios.pl.Q Box office open 09:30 - 21:15.<br />
Tickets 16-27zł, Tue, Thu 15zł.<br />
IMAX ul. Powsińska 31 (Sadyba), tel. (+48) 22 550 33<br />
33, www.kinoimax.pl.Q Box office open from 30 minutes<br />
before the first showtime to 15 minutes after last showtime.<br />
Tickets 25-34zł.<br />
Kino.Lab G-4, Ujazdowski Castle (Centrum Sztuki<br />
Współczesnej), ul. Jazdów 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71<br />
ext. 135, www.kinolab.art.pl.Q Tickets 7-14zł. Box office<br />
open from 12:00 to 15 minutes after last show. Mon open<br />
30 minutes before the showtime.<br />
Multikino Złote Tarasy A-4, ul. Złota 59, tel. (+48)<br />
22 201 16 10, www.multikino.pl. Also on Al. Ken 60<br />
(Ursynów), Wola Park, ul. Górczewska 124 (Wola), Centrum<br />
Targówek, ul. Głębocka 15 (Targówek). Q Box office open<br />
from 15 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes<br />
after last showtime. Tickets 18-32zł.<br />
Cultural Centres<br />
History Meeting House (Dom Spotkań z Historią)<br />
C-2, ul. Karowa 20, tel. (+48) 22 255 05 05, www.dsh.<br />
waw.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.<br />
Closed Mon. Admission free.<br />
Mazovia Region Centre of Culture and Arts<br />
(Mazowieckie Centrum Kultury i Sztuki) A-3, ul.<br />
Elektoralna 12, tel. (+48) 22 586 42 00, www.mckis.<br />
waw.pl.QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Price<br />
depending on event.<br />
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/<br />
CSW) (Centrum Sztuki Współczesnej Zamek<br />
Ujazdowski) G-4, ul. Jazdów 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 64<br />
08, www.csw.art.pl.QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 -<br />
21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, Thu free.<br />
Opera Stages<br />
Great Theatre - National Opera (Teatr Wielki -<br />
Opera Narodowa) B-2, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22<br />
826 50 19, www.teatrwielki.pl.QBox office open 09:00<br />
- 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Tickets 25-145zł.<br />
Philharmonics<br />
National Philharmonic (Filharmonia Narodowa)<br />
B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 10, tel. (+48) 22 551 71 28,<br />
www.filharmonia.pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 14:00,<br />
15:00 - 19:00, Sun depending on the repertoire. Tickets<br />
25-250zł.<br />
Theatre Stages<br />
National Theatre (Teatr Narodowy) B-2, Pl. Teatralny<br />
3, tel. (+48) 22 692 06 04, www.narodowy.pl.Q<br />
Box office open 11:00 - 14:30, 15:00 - 19:00, Sun depending<br />
on repertoire. Closed Mon. Tickets 40-90zł.<br />
Och-Theatre ul. Grójecka 65 (Ochota), tel. (+48) 22<br />
589 52 00, www.ochteatr.com.pl. Q Box office open<br />
from 12:00 until the start of the performance. Tickets<br />
30-100zł.<br />
Sabat Theatre (Teatr Sabat) B-4, ul. Foksal 16, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 826 23 55 ext. 20, www.teatr-sabat.pl.Q<br />
Box office open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sat<br />
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Tickets 90-240zł.<br />
Square Theatre (Teatr Kwadrat) B-3, ul.<br />
Marszałkowska 138, tel. (+48) 22 826 23 89, www.<br />
teatrkwadrat.pl.QBox office open 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 -<br />
19:30, Mon 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 15:00<br />
- 19:30. Tickets 30-95zł.<br />
Theatre On Wola (Teatr Na Woli im. Tadeusza<br />
Łomnickiego) ul. Kasprzaka 22 (Wola), tel. (+48) 22<br />
632 24 78, www.teatrnawoli.pl.QBox office open 12:00<br />
- 19:00, or until show time. Tickets 20-70zł.<br />
The Music Theatre ROMA (Teatr Muzyczny<br />
ROMA) A-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 49, tel. (+48) 22 628<br />
89 98, www.teatrroma.pl.QBox office open 10:00 -<br />
19:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00, or until show time. Tickets<br />
30-150zł.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Ballet<br />
14.12 Friday - 15.12 Saturday<br />
Moscow City Ballet<br />
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 696 99<br />
00, www.makroconcert.com/pl. <strong>In</strong> what is becoming a<br />
yearly tradition, Viktora Smirnova-Golovanov’s Moscow City<br />
Ballet group is coming to Poland once again. With dancers<br />
culled from the best dance schools in Russia and Ukraine,<br />
they will present their rendition’s of Piotr Tchaikovsky’s Swan<br />
Lake and The Nutcracker. Q Events start at 15:00 and<br />
19:00. Tickets 90-250zł. Available at Congress Hall box office<br />
(Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).<br />
Concerts<br />
01.12 Saturday<br />
Imany<br />
F-5, Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10. After Ayo and Zaz here is<br />
another singer whose popularity in Poland is rising day by<br />
day. An afro-soul singer whose hit “You will never know” is<br />
sitting proudly on top of the charts as I type, so I’m told. Q<br />
Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 110/90zł. Available at www.<br />
ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Złota 59, B-3 (Open 09:00 - 22:00,<br />
Sun 09:00 - 21:00).<br />
02.12 Sunday<br />
Thomas Anders & Modern Talking Band<br />
H-4, Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A. It seems Thomas<br />
Anders must like it here, he performs in Poland every year.<br />
Giants of the 80’s, Modern Talking split a while ago, but<br />
Thomas Anders still uses the material. For those of a strong<br />
constitution. Q Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 70-400zł.<br />
Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Złota 59 (Open<br />
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).<br />
04.12 Tuesday<br />
Pepsi Rocks - Muchy<br />
B-4, Hard Rock Cafe, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel.<br />
(+48) 22 222 07 00, www.pepsirocks.pl. Poznan outfit<br />
Muchy were formed 6 years ago by Michal Wiraszko, Piotr<br />
Maciejewski and Szymon Waliszewski with Tomasz Skorka<br />
joining soon after. They list their inspirations as The Smiths,<br />
The Velvet Underground and Republika and first recorded<br />
a cover of “Nieprzytomna do bolu” which appeared on the<br />
compilation album “Tribute to Partia” in 2005. Their first single<br />
“Miasto doznan” peaked at 7 on the charts and a few months<br />
later they released their official debut album, “Terroromans”,<br />
album of the year on alt rock station Radio 3. Q Concert starts<br />
at 21:00. Tickets 32/24zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and<br />
Empik, ul. Złota 59 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).<br />
08.12 Saturday<br />
Hercules & Love Affair<br />
Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 4. A band whose songs go back to<br />
those golden days of disco, their compositions characterise<br />
the 70’s and 80’s rhythms of the famous 54 Club. Q Concert<br />
starts at 20:00. Tickets 30zł. Available at Empik, ul. Złota 59<br />
(Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).<br />
09.12 Sunday<br />
Maryla Rodowicz<br />
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656<br />
72 99, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Rodowicz is the<br />
best-selling and highest-earning Polish singer of all time.<br />
She plays pop, rock-pop and folk and has been doing so<br />
since 1962, recording 2000 songs, 20 albums, as well as<br />
releasing LPs in English, Czech, German and Russian. 2008’s<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
CULTURE & EVENTS<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
21
22 CULTURE & EVENTS CULTURE & EVENTS 23<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Chamber Opera<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Chamber Opera<br />
(Warszawska Opera Kameralna)<br />
A-1, Al. Solidarności<br />
76b, tel. (+48) 22 831 22 40,<br />
www.operakameralna.pl.<br />
The <strong>Warsaw</strong> Chamber Opera<br />
was founded in 1961 by Stefan<br />
Sutkowski, who has served<br />
as its Managing and Artistic<br />
Director ever since. The company’s<br />
inaugural production,<br />
performed on the 4th September<br />
1961, was Pergolesi’s La<br />
Serva Padrona. Since October<br />
1986 the Opera has performed at its own theatre, a<br />
listed building dating from 1775 whose audience contributes<br />
to the acoustic sound created.<br />
The repertoire of the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Chamber Opera spans a<br />
wide variety of musical styles and genres: from medieval<br />
mystery plays to the operas of the Baroque and Classical<br />
periods, 18th century pantomimes, the operas by<br />
Rossini and Donizetti, as well as works by contemporary<br />
composers.<br />
The <strong>Warsaw</strong> Chamber Opera ensembles also give<br />
regular concerts featuring chamber, oratorio and<br />
symphonic music of various epochs. <strong>In</strong> 1984 the<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Chamber Opera established the Research<br />
and Documentation Centre of Early Polish Music. It<br />
deals with the research, publication, performance<br />
and recording of newly-discovered works by Polish<br />
composers.<br />
The music of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart has long<br />
occupied a prominent place in the company’s<br />
repertoire. The <strong>Warsaw</strong> Chamber Opera is the<br />
only company in the world to have Mozart’s entire<br />
operatic output in its permanent repertoire and this<br />
unprecedented achievement has won the <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
company-wide international recognition. <strong>In</strong> addition<br />
to this the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Chamber Opera has also<br />
organized the 4th Claudio Monteverdi Festival, The<br />
Celebrations to mark 400 Years of Opera as a Genre<br />
and An Ode to Europe Festival. Q Box office open<br />
09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun depending on repertoire.<br />
Tickets 20-130zł.<br />
20.12 Thursday - 23.12 Sunday<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Chamber Orchestra Concerts in<br />
Royal Castle<br />
B-2, Royal Castle, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22<br />
831 22 40, www.operakameralna.pl. This special<br />
cycle of concerts by the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Chamber Orchestra<br />
takes place in the wonderful scenery of the Royal Castle.<br />
Organised for the 20th, 22nd and 23rd, the programme<br />
includes compositions by Handel and Bach. Q Concerts<br />
start at 19:00.<br />
Follow POLANDIYP on<br />
‘Jest Cudnie’ was produced by Smolik while last year’s best<br />
of ‘PRO-Fanacja’ collection was available to just 120 fans!<br />
The crazy world of rock, eh... Q Concert starts at 18:00.<br />
Tickets 80-180zł. Available at Empik, ul. Złota 59 (Open<br />
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).<br />
11.12 Tuesday<br />
Pepsi Rocks - Happysad<br />
B-4, Hard Rock Cafe, ul. Złota 59, tel. (+48) 22 222 07<br />
00, www.pepsirocks.pl. This popular Polish rock band will<br />
stop in Gdynia as part of their “Long Way Tour.” Their 2007<br />
album Nieprzygoda (Unadventure) hit number one in the<br />
Polish rock charts and was one of the best selling records<br />
of the year. Last year saw the addition of Daniel Pomorski<br />
on trumpet who worked on the latest album which translates<br />
as Live in the studio. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets<br />
60/45zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Złota<br />
59 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).<br />
18.12 Tuesday<br />
Glenn Miller Orchestra<br />
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656 72 99,<br />
www.makroconcert.com/pl. Without doubt the most popular<br />
and still most in demand swing big band in the world. It all started<br />
in the 30s, but after the founder’s death, his friend Tex Benek<br />
decided to continue the project as The World Famous Glenn<br />
Miller Orchestra, today they are lead by Will Salden. Their hits<br />
include Moonlight Serenade, <strong>In</strong> the Mood, Tuxedo Junction,<br />
Chattanooga Choo Choo and I’ve Got a Gal in Kalamazoo. Apparently<br />
they have has more number 1s than Elvis or The Beatles,<br />
so tickets will be going fast. Q Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets<br />
95-265zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Congress Hall box<br />
office (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).<br />
18.12 Tuesday<br />
PEPSI ROCK BATTLEFIELD 2012 - Great Final<br />
B-4, Hard Rock Cafe, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel.<br />
(+48) 22 222 07 00, www.pepsirocks.pl. This will be<br />
the grand final of the Pepsi Rocks Battle of the Bands. The<br />
winner will be chosen from three groups: Space Buzz, The<br />
Plants and The Electric Lemons who have defeated all the<br />
opposition in two previous rounds of the contest:acoustic<br />
and electrical, now it’s the final countdown. Q Concert starts<br />
at 21:00. Tickets 18/10zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and<br />
Empik, ul. Złota 59 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).<br />
18.12 Tuesday<br />
Smokie with Symphonic Orchestra<br />
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656<br />
72 99, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Bizarrely popular in<br />
Poland this tour will take in 9 cities. Together for 40 years,<br />
the one that gets everyone going here is “Living next door to<br />
Alice”. We can only marvel at the prospect of that and other<br />
favourites, name one - I dare you, being given the symphonic<br />
treatment. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 80-300zł.<br />
Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Congress Hall box office<br />
(Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).<br />
19.12 Wednesday<br />
Selah Sue<br />
F-5, Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10. Know the Kinder Bueno<br />
commercial with a vampire in Venice? If you do or you don’t<br />
makes no never mind - the song used was This World by<br />
Selah Sue. Her tracks bring to mind the neo-funk style of<br />
Erykah Badu and Lauryn Hill and her voice is close to Amy<br />
Winehouse. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 95-120zł.<br />
Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Złota 59, B-3<br />
(Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).<br />
20.12 Thursday<br />
Disney - Fantasia 2000<br />
Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, www.magicznekoncerty.pl.<br />
This is a project which joins symphony music<br />
with Disney animations, all parents of a certain age will<br />
know what we are talking about. The schedule includes<br />
Beethoven, Gershwin, Stravinsky, Dukas and more with a<br />
120-piece orchestra and choir performing. Q Concerts<br />
start at 17:00 and 19:30. Tickets 49-89zł. Available at<br />
www.ticketpro.pl.<br />
25.12 Tuesday<br />
Harlem Gospel Choir<br />
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656<br />
72 99, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Yes brothers and<br />
sisters, raise your hands in praise as the Harlem Choir<br />
starts a new European tour. One of the best known gospel<br />
bands in the world, they have played in Poland a few times,<br />
but this year they come with a new repertoire including their<br />
interpretations of Whitney Houston. Expect lots of energy.<br />
Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 80-250zł. Available at<br />
www.ticketpro.pl and Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00<br />
- 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).<br />
31.12 Monday<br />
New Year’s Eve Gala<br />
B-2, Great Theatre, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22<br />
826 50 19, www.teatrwielki.pl. 2013 has been designated<br />
Verdi Year to mark the great composer’s 200th<br />
anniversary. This concert will inaugurate proceedings in<br />
Poland, the repertoire includes all the most famous arias<br />
and compositions from Verdi’s works. It will be conducted<br />
by Carlo Montanaro, performing will be: Katarzyna Trylnik,<br />
Agnieszka Zwierko, Krzysztof Bednarek and Andrzej<br />
Dobber. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 300-450zł.<br />
Available at Great theatre box office (Open 09:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.<br />
30.01 Wednesday<br />
Marina and the Diamonds<br />
F-5, Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10, www.livenation.pl. If<br />
the name rings a bell, it’s because this outfit have already<br />
been busy this year supporting Coldplay. Now they are back<br />
to play songs from their two albums “The Family Jewels”<br />
and “Electra Heart”. The music is described as a mix of<br />
indie pop, new wave, synthpop and electronic. Q Concert<br />
starts at 18:00. Tickets 60zł. Available at www.livenation.<br />
pl and Empik, ul. Złota 59, B-3 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun<br />
09:00 - 21:00).<br />
Exhibitions<br />
02.10 Tuesday - 17.03 Sunday<br />
Everything plays!<br />
G-2, Copernicus Science Centre, ul. Wybrzeże<br />
Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.<br />
kopernik.org.pl. This is the first temporary interactive<br />
exhibition in the Copernicus science centre. Presenting 19<br />
atypical musical instruments on which various experiments<br />
can be made, come and play with the sound microscope on<br />
which you hear objects which normally don’t make sounds,<br />
like an ice-cream lolly stick!? You can also try to create music<br />
by balancing your body and, thanks to even more special<br />
electronical gizmos, you can hear how would you sound as a<br />
robot. Sounds great. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00<br />
- 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.<br />
Admission 22/13-16zł, family ticket 57zł. (2adults+2children).<br />
Use of the labs costs an additional 18/14zł.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
MAMY TWÓJ BILET.<br />
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES<br />
WWW.FABRYKAZESPOLOW.PL
24 CULTURE & EVENTS CULTURE & EVENTS 25<br />
12.10 Friday - 31.01 Thursday<br />
Art Beyond Time. Stefan Norblin 1892-1952<br />
Poster Museum, ul. S. K. Potockiego 10/16<br />
(Wilanów), tel. (+48) 22 842 48 48, www.postermuseum.pl.<br />
This exhibition presents works by the talented<br />
artist Norblin. Somewhat forgotten after his death, this<br />
is a retrospective of his works seen in Polish as well as<br />
foreign galleries. There are posters, graphics, portraits,<br />
theatre costumes and more. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00,<br />
Mon 12:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:00 - 18:00. Admission<br />
10/7zł, Mon free.<br />
16.11 Friday - 24.02 Sunday<br />
Maurizio Cattelan - AMEN<br />
G-4, Ujazdowski Castle, ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.<br />
pl. After one year of silence away from the art-world,<br />
Maurizio Cattelan and his works are once again arousing<br />
questions regarding life and death. This is the first<br />
museum exhibition after his well-known and successful<br />
Guggenheim retrospective. On display at the Centre<br />
for Contemporary Art, Ujazdowski Castle, is a selection<br />
of the artist’s most important works in which he<br />
investigates the deepest areas of human life. Q Open<br />
12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission<br />
12/6zł, Thu free.<br />
Stołeczna Estrada<br />
01.12 Saturday<br />
The Great Illuminations 2012<br />
B-2, Pl. Zamkowy, www.estrada.com.pl. As every<br />
year come to Pl. Zamkowy to see the great Christmas<br />
tree lights. This year the inspiration comes from the<br />
literature of winter, the show will be a mixture of<br />
music, dance and street theatre art. Everything will<br />
start very innocently as among the crowd appear<br />
fairy tale characters. Later the Winter Queen might<br />
appear, she might not - if she doesn’t come, there<br />
won’t be any presents or illuminations. It will finish<br />
with a firework show. One of the most popular mass,<br />
family event in <strong>Warsaw</strong>, the stars of this year’s edition<br />
will be Natalia Kukulska, Ania Rusowicz, the winner of<br />
a 2012 Fryderyk music award as well as Kuba Badach,<br />
the Sound & Grace choir known from Poland’s Got Talent.<br />
The star will be the ever popular singer Andrzej<br />
Piaseczny who is sure to warm our hearts. Q Event<br />
starts at 16:00. Admission free.<br />
28.12 Friday<br />
Christmas Concert<br />
B-2, St. John the Baptist Cathedral, ul.<br />
Świetojańska 8, www.estrada.com.pl. The<br />
Christmas concerts organised by Estrada have long<br />
a tradition and always take place in the churches<br />
of <strong>Warsaw</strong>. <strong>In</strong> previous years the stars invited have<br />
included Dee dee Bridgewater, Take 6, The Golden<br />
Gospel Singers, Barnara Hendricks and Chick Corea.<br />
The star of this year edition will be Angelique Kidjo,<br />
one of the most talented and popular African singers.<br />
Known as an “icon of afro-music”, she is also an<br />
ambassador for UNICEF and has performed with the<br />
exalted likes of Diana Krall, Carlos Santana, Peter<br />
Gabriel and Erykah Badu. Q Concert starts at 20:30.<br />
Tickets 100zł. Available at St. John’s Cathedral (Open<br />
10:00 - 12:30, 16:00 - 18:30) and empik, ul. Złota 59,<br />
B-3 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).<br />
For the Kids<br />
05.02 Tuesday - 06.02 Wednesday<br />
Disney on Ice<br />
Torwar, ul. Łazienkowsa 6A. The latest spectacle with Disney<br />
characters performing on ice has the theme of Christmas<br />
from various parts of the world, presented by 50 modern and<br />
classical Disney characters. their previous show Princesses<br />
and Heroes was a huge success in Poland, get your tickets<br />
quick! Q Tickets 60-150zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and<br />
Empik, ul. Złota 59 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).<br />
Special Events<br />
24.11 Saturday - 06.01 Sunday<br />
Christmas Fair<br />
B-1/2, Rynek Starego Miasta, www.jarmarkbozonarodzeniowy.org.<br />
70 wooden stalls make up the Christmas<br />
fair in the capital, even the President of Russia has visited in<br />
the past, it must be worth a look. It’s an international affair<br />
with traders from Latvia, Slovakia, Austria and Croatia arriving.<br />
Come and sample the German Bratwurst and mulled wine,<br />
Polish pies from Mazuria, bakery products and cold cuts. There<br />
will be no shortage of music either, especially carols and, of<br />
course, a huge Christmas tree. We will also have the chance<br />
to enjoy national and regional presentations from Slovakia,<br />
Hungary, Latvia and Austria and buy culinary goodies, tourist<br />
offers and folk art. The Nativity Scene was built by the charity<br />
Aid to the Church in Need and they will be also selling souvenirs,<br />
Christmas decorations and devotional articles, something for<br />
everyone. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00. Admission free.<br />
31.12 Monday<br />
New Year’s Eve at Le Méridien Bristol<br />
C-2, Le Méridien Bristol, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście<br />
42/44, tel. (+48) 22 551 10 00, www.lemeridien.pl.<br />
Here, again, you can choose between two restaurants: the<br />
Marconi or Malinowa. <strong>In</strong> Malinowa you wil be able to try the<br />
7-course meal prepared by Chef Michał Tkaczyk. The Marconi<br />
will host a seafood buffet with alcoholic and non-alcoholic<br />
beverages. The party will feature music played by DJ Andrzej<br />
Piotrowski. Q Event starts at 20:00. Price 590 for seats in<br />
Marconi Restaurant and 400zł for Malinowa Restaurant.<br />
Reservation on reservations.bristol@lemeridien.com.<br />
31.12 Monday<br />
New Year’s Eve at the Hyatt Regency <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
G-5, Hyatt Regency <strong>Warsaw</strong>, ul. Belwederska 23, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 558 12 34, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com.<br />
After a splendid 5-course meal DJ Philip will entertain us in<br />
the Łazienki Lounge, where we can dance the night away. At<br />
Midnight it’s all up to the Regency Club on the 5th floor to enjoy<br />
the city Fireworks and toast with a glass of Champagne.The<br />
Beverage Package, which includes red and white wine, beer,<br />
all standard spirits as well as soft drinks, is available to book<br />
for only 125zł per person, not bad. Q Event starts at 20:00.<br />
Price 390zł per person.Reservation on (+48) 22 558 10 21.<br />
31.12 Monday<br />
New Year’s Eve at the <strong>In</strong>terContinental<br />
A-4, <strong>In</strong>terContinental, ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. (+48) 22<br />
328 88 88, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. There<br />
are two restaurants to choose from here. The Downtown<br />
Restaurant will have a buffet for 295zł per person or 395zł<br />
with alcohol. Meanwhile the Platter will give us the chance to<br />
try the menu prepared by one of the best polish chefs, Karol<br />
Okrasa. There will be also live piano music and dancing till<br />
dawn; all for 695zł. per person. Q Event starts at 20:00.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
26 CULTURE & EVENTS<br />
New Year’s Eve<br />
31.12 Monday<br />
New Year’s Eve Concert at the National<br />
Philharmonic<br />
B-3, National Philharmonic, ul. Sienkiewicza 10, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 551 71 28. This New Year’s Eve concert will<br />
feature the Symphony Orchestra and National Philharmonic<br />
choir conducted by Antoni Wit. He has invited Ewa<br />
Biegas, Nicolay Dorozhkin and Henryk Wojnarowski to<br />
the project; the programme of the concert is a surprise,<br />
but fans of the aria won’t be disappointed. Q Concert<br />
starts at 19:00. Tickets 90-230zł. Available at National<br />
Philharmonic box office (Open 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00 -<br />
19:00, Sun depending on repertoire).<br />
31.12 Monday<br />
New Year’s Eve at Basen<br />
C-4, Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 4. The recently opened<br />
Basen wants to surprise their clients with this New Year’s<br />
Eve offer. Apart from a great party there will be concert<br />
of stars, with Monnika Brodka so far confirmed. <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
DJs will make the party swing and at 200zł, including<br />
catering and a place to sit, the tickets sound like good<br />
value. Q Tickets 100-200zł. Available at Empik, ul. Złota<br />
59 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).<br />
31.12 Monday<br />
New Year’s Eve Gala at the Congress Hall<br />
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, www.estrada.<br />
com.pl. Another great New Year’s Eve event organised<br />
by the Stołeczna Estrada. This time there will be a concert<br />
by Aleksandra Kurzak. An incredible opera singer and<br />
soprano, she has performed at the most popular and prestigious<br />
concerts halls in the world. For this unique night she<br />
will give a wonderful concert with her guests: Francesco<br />
Demuro, the great Italian tenor, Anna Dereszowska, talented<br />
actress and singer, as well as the showman Maciej<br />
Miecznikowski. The artists will perform with the Sinfonia<br />
Varsovia conducted by the Russian Evgeny Volynsky. The<br />
repertoire includes Puccini, Strauss and Lehar, in addition<br />
to musical and popular songs so there’s something for<br />
everyone. Q Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 100-350zł.<br />
Available at Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00) and Empik, ul. Złota 59, B-3 (Open<br />
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).<br />
31.12 Monday<br />
New Year’s Eve Gala 2012/13 at the<br />
Sheraton <strong>Warsaw</strong> Hotel<br />
The Streets of old Havana<br />
C-4, Sheraton <strong>Warsaw</strong> Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. (+48)<br />
22 450 61 00, www.sheraton.pl/en. For this very<br />
special night the restaurants of the Sheraton <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
will be transformed into a Latino-Carribean wonderland.<br />
The splendid musicians and singers of ‘Cuban Melao’<br />
and ‘Optimystic’ will create rhythms and melodies that will<br />
make you dance until you drop. The aromas and tastes of<br />
the exquisite Caribbean cuisine mastered by Artur Grajber,<br />
the Sheraton’s renowned Executive Chef, will be a treat<br />
for all. Meanwhile the long cocktail list has been based on<br />
the finest recipes from the greatest Havana bartenders.<br />
After midnight there will be a lottery with prizes and a<br />
casino where you can play poker and black jack. For those<br />
who want to stay the night, a double room with breakfast<br />
comes in at a bargain 320zł. Q Price 795zł per person.<br />
Reservations on sylwester.warszawa@sheraton.com.<br />
31.12 Monday<br />
New Year’s Eve in Polonia Palace<br />
B-4, Polonia Palace Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 45,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 318 28 00, www.poloniapalace.com.<br />
Come and sample one of the many delicious dishes<br />
from buffet called “Culinary journey through Europe”.<br />
The drinks include wine from Chile and the party is lead<br />
by the DJ in Bojangles Bar. Q Event starts at 19:30.<br />
Price 450zł per person. Reservation on sylwester@<br />
syrena.com.pl.<br />
13.01 Sunday<br />
XXI Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity<br />
B-4, Pl. Defilad. All part of the 21th annual charity day<br />
with events nationwide to raise money for various children’s<br />
charities and medical equipment. Highlights will include the<br />
‘light to heaven’ fireworks display at 20.00. What’s different<br />
this year is that the appeal will be broadened slightly<br />
to include a number of projects involving the elderly, but<br />
as usual the main focus will be on collecting money to help<br />
poorly kids.<br />
Sport<br />
01.12 Saturday<br />
KSW 21<br />
H-4, Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6a, www.konfrontacja.<br />
com. Get ready to rumble for the latest KSW event where<br />
fighters slug it out for the KSW federation title. The stars of<br />
the night will be Mamed Chalidov, Michał Materla, Rodney<br />
Wallace, Jay Silva and many more. Q Event starts at 20:00.<br />
Tickets 50-500zł. Available at Empik, ul. Złota 59 (Open<br />
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).<br />
Theatre<br />
02.12 Sunday<br />
Phantom<br />
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 696<br />
99 00, www.makroconcert.com/pl. This is another<br />
play based on the world famous novel ‘Phantom of the<br />
Opera’. The audience are sure to feel the atmosphere of<br />
French opera and will hear unforgettable compositions<br />
of Webber and Yeston. With breathtaking staging, music<br />
and a wonderful love story, it is well worth checking out.<br />
Q Event starts at 14:00 and 18:00. Tickets 70-220zł.<br />
Available at Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00) and Empik, ul. Złota 59 (Open<br />
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).<br />
16.12 Sunday<br />
Merlin - A Different Story<br />
Theatre on Wola, ul. Kasprzaka 22 (Wola), tel.<br />
(+22) 632 24 78, www.teatrnawoli.pl. Merlin<br />
decides to create the perfect Kingdom in Brittany.<br />
Arthur becomes the ruler and establishes the Order<br />
of the Round Table - as the sign of equality for all<br />
knights who will sit there. This version by Tadeusz<br />
Słobodzianek is a parable about betrayed alliance<br />
and the decline of faith in the idea of the possibility<br />
of universal happiness. It can also be read as an allegory<br />
on Polish history at the end of the twentieth<br />
century: the enthusiasm of the year 1989, the brutal<br />
war in the echelons of power and the following disappointments.<br />
It’s a play for everyone - for brainiacs as<br />
well as audiences simply expecting an interesting<br />
might out. Q Event starts at 18:00. Tickets 60/40zł.<br />
Available at theatre box office (Open 12:00 - 19:00)<br />
and before the event.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com
28 WHERE TO STAY<br />
Lodgings at a glance<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> is a business<br />
city first and<br />
foremost, and occupancy<br />
rates reflect<br />
that. Prices dip the<br />
moment the clock<br />
hits Friday, 5pm, and<br />
you’ll find some great<br />
discounts available<br />
if you hunt around<br />
online. A good place<br />
to start is at poland.<br />
inyourpocket.com<br />
where our Hotel Calculator scours booking engines for<br />
the best rates based on your criteria (you can thank us<br />
later). The <strong>Warsaw</strong> hotel market reflects the city’s image<br />
as the corporate briefcase of Eastern Europe and<br />
comes well equipped with five star offerings as well as<br />
a new breed of options for thrifty travellers. <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
now has a group of Golden Keys concierges and their<br />
tips for the coming months can be found in our Ask the<br />
Concierge box.<br />
Here is a list of recommendations depending on what<br />
you are looking for.<br />
Local<br />
Be King of the Castle by booking into Castle <strong>In</strong>n, where<br />
rooms custom designed by local artists offer a uniquely<br />
modern angle to the Old Town setting. For something<br />
more upmarket check into the Polonia Palace, a restored<br />
art nouveau building bang in the centre. Or why<br />
not see what it’s like to be a (wealthy) local, and rent out<br />
an apartment - we vouch for Residence St Andrews,<br />
class apartments in an A1 location.<br />
Cheap<br />
Team Hostel is ideal if you’re looking to meet up with<br />
random travelers from around the globe, while newcomer<br />
Moon Hostel is a little more upscale (flatscreens in the<br />
rooms) and a little less backpackeresque. If you prefer to<br />
party with the student set Fest Hostel is located right<br />
in the core of the University district.<br />
Lads<br />
If you’re touring in numbers then go for a name brand,<br />
all of which tend to drop their rates at weekends. If<br />
you want to be central and close to the action then try<br />
The Golden Tulip, Radisson Blu and Campanile. If<br />
quick access to the airport is an essential requirement<br />
then the new Holiday <strong>In</strong>n Express <strong>Warsaw</strong> Airport<br />
has you covered.<br />
Couples<br />
MaMaison Le Regina is the definitive honeymoon<br />
experience, and right in the middle of romantic new<br />
town. Not only are the rooms perfectly charming,<br />
but the restaurant is the ideal place for a candlelit<br />
dinner for two.<br />
Splurge<br />
The city has seen a number of new hotels in recent<br />
years and while we can vouch for all the major hotels,<br />
it might be worth taking a look at the price comparison<br />
service hotelcalculator on the hotel pages of poland.<br />
inyourpocket.com.<br />
Cream of the crop<br />
Hyatt Regency <strong>Warsaw</strong> G-5, ul. Belwederska<br />
23, tel. (+48) 22 558 12 34, www.warsaw.regency.<br />
hyatt.com. Situated right on the doorstep of Łazienki<br />
Park, the Hyatt not only has all the five star trimmings,<br />
but the biggest hotel swimming pool in <strong>Warsaw</strong>. By hotel<br />
standards the rooms are enormous, and come with<br />
easy-on-the-eye cream colours and huge showerheads<br />
designed for that mock rain experience. Q250 rooms<br />
(90 singles, 132 doubles, 10 suites, 2 Diplomatic Suite,<br />
1 Presidential Suite). PTHAR6UFLGK<br />
DCwW hhhhh<br />
<strong>In</strong>terContinental A-4, ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. (+48) 22<br />
328 88 88, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. A beautiful<br />
three-legged structure, the <strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong>terContinental is<br />
nothing short of an architectural marvel. Accommodation<br />
fits the setting, with spacious rooms using pleasant colour<br />
combinations and including every facility one would expect.<br />
Setting it apart from the competition is a fitness centre<br />
and swimming pool on the 43rd floor, and huge residential<br />
suites for long-term guests. Q414 rooms (336 singles, 336<br />
doubles, 78 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). PTHA<br />
R6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh<br />
Le Méridien Bristol C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście<br />
42/44, tel. (+48) 22 551 10 00, www.lemeridien.pl.<br />
Breathe in history by booking a night in <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s most famous<br />
hotel. The plaque in the marble clad lobby lists dozens<br />
of stars and royalty who have chosen to lodge here, and to<br />
countdown the facilities on offer would require an hour of<br />
your time. Art nouveau is the theme and rooms feature the<br />
classy ambiance of yesteryear. But for all the five star perks<br />
and trimmings our favourite touch is the courtyard garden;<br />
an oasis of luxury perfect for evening drinks. The hotel’s<br />
floor by floor renovations are still in progress but fortunately<br />
won’t affect guests. Q206 rooms (168 singles, 168 doubles,<br />
37 apartments, 1 Paderewski Suite). PTJHA<br />
R6UFGKDCW hhhhh<br />
Mamaison Hotel Le Regina <strong>Warsaw</strong> B-1, ul.<br />
Kościelna 12, tel. (+48) 22 531 60 00, www.mamaison.com/leregina.<br />
Rated by many as the most stylish<br />
hotel in <strong>Warsaw</strong>, the Regina is the bottom line in elegance<br />
and comes set behind a row of pastel coloured colonnades<br />
in <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s New Town area. No expense has been spared<br />
in creating this luxury retreat, with bleached oak and marble<br />
mocha used for flooring, and restored frescoes featuring in<br />
many of the rooms. A monastic quiet prevails throughout<br />
this courtyard centred hotel, with interiors featuring a soothing<br />
combo of whites, creams and caramel colours. Q61<br />
rooms (58 singles, 58 doubles, 1 Penthouse €, 1 Le Regina<br />
Suite, 1 Presidential Suite). PTJHARUFGK<br />
DCW hhhhh<br />
Marriott B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. (+48)<br />
22 630 63 06, www.warsawmarriott.pl. A hotel with<br />
real pedigree, the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Marriott has everything from<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>’s classiest doorman outside to award winning<br />
restaurants inside. The accommodation has been home to<br />
a long line of visiting nabobs, including President Obama. An<br />
extensive program of renovation has recently seen all the<br />
rooms upgraded and the beds are so comfortable you may<br />
not wish to leave them. Little details include lemon shampoo<br />
in the bathrooms, mini-bars complete with pipes of Pringles<br />
and views that stretch right across the city. Q518 rooms<br />
(423 singles, 423 doubles, 31 suites, 60 apartments, 2<br />
Vice Presidential Suite , 1 Presidential Suite). PTHA<br />
R6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel A-3, ul. Grzybowska<br />
24, tel. (+48) 22 321 88 88, www.radissonblu.com/<br />
hotel-warsaw. An excellent hotel with top-drawer facilities<br />
and rooms themed on Italian, Scandinavian and maritime<br />
styles. All come with dataports, free Wi-fi, three telephone<br />
lines, safes and pay-TV, and there’s also state-of-the-art<br />
conference, dining and fitness facilities. Q311 rooms (284<br />
singles, 284 doubles, 26 apartments, 1 Presidential Apartment).<br />
PTHAR6UFGKDCwW hhhhh<br />
Rialto F-4, ul. Wilcza 73, tel. (+48) 22 584 87 00,<br />
www.rialto.pl. Relive the days of Lempicka and Lindbergh<br />
inside Poland’s original boutique hotel, a stunning venue<br />
decorated exclusively in art deco style. Period furnishings<br />
have been plucked from the auction houses and antique<br />
stores of Europe, and all the individually designed rooms<br />
come with Italian linen, DVD players and a host of luxurious<br />
extras. If it’s available then book into lucky number 13, a<br />
colonial pearl which Hercule Poirot would have loved. He<br />
would have thought highly of the excellent in-house restaurant,<br />
too, which has a special menu that offers the cuisine<br />
of pre-war <strong>Warsaw</strong> for added authenticity. Q44 rooms (6<br />
singles, 27 doubles, 11 apartments). PTHARUF<br />
GKDW hhhhh<br />
Sheraton <strong>Warsaw</strong> Hotel C-4, ul. Prusa 2, tel. (+48)<br />
22 450 61 00, www.sheraton.pl/en. It’s all a bit Dynasty<br />
in the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Sheraton, with lots of marble and gold plate<br />
extras, as well as a selection of some of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s best<br />
eateries on the ground floor. Rooms are of generous size,<br />
though to really feel like king consider upgrading to executive,<br />
where perks include access to a great lounge featuring<br />
complimentary snacks and beverages. Q350 rooms<br />
(326 singles, 326 doubles, 18 suites, 5 apartments, 1<br />
Presidential Suite). PTHAR6UFLGKDW<br />
hhhhh<br />
Sofitel <strong>Warsaw</strong> Victoria B-3, ul. Królewska 11, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 657 80 11, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.<br />
com. For years the Sofitel was in very real danger of<br />
stagnation. Now this revamped concrete block finds itself<br />
at the heart of the action with revitalised Krakowskie<br />
Przedmieście on one side, and Saski Park on the other.<br />
And, right in front, Sir Norman Foster’s Metropolitan building,<br />
complete with its glass cased offices and designer<br />
boutiques. So what of the Sofitel itself? Rooms are dapper<br />
enough, fully equipped to deal with the steep demands<br />
of the five star traveller. Ask for a business class room if<br />
you require an additional study with fax and copy facilities.<br />
Q343 rooms (160 singles, 170 doubles, 52 apartments,<br />
1 Presidential Suite). POTHAR6UFLG<br />
KDCW hhhhh<br />
The Westin <strong>Warsaw</strong> Hotel A-3, Al. Jana Pawła II<br />
21, tel. (+48) 22 450 80 00, www.westin.pl/en. A<br />
top bracket sanctuary situated amid the skyscrapers of<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>’s business district. The lobby buzzes at all hours<br />
and a glass lift whisks guests to rooms decorated in warms<br />
tones and ultra-modern fittings. Each comes replete with<br />
dressing gowns and slippers, in-room movies and mini-bars<br />
that will take a considerable effort to clear. Splash out on the<br />
executive floor for access to a top floor lounge that features<br />
gourmet finger snacks and champagne on ice. Q361 rooms<br />
(345 singles, 345 doubles, 15 suites, 1 Presidential Suite).<br />
PTHAR6UFLGKDW hhhhh<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
Disaster at Smolensk<br />
Poland hit world headlines on April 10th 2010 when a<br />
plane carrying President Lech Kaczyński, his wife and<br />
ninety four other passengers crashed by the city of<br />
Smolensk killing all on board. The plane clipped trees as<br />
it came into land, before turning upside down and plunging<br />
to the ground. The president and his entourage had<br />
been flying in to mark the 70th anniversary of the Katyń<br />
Massacre, a notorious episode in which Stalin ordered<br />
the execution of approximately 22,000 Polish officers.<br />
For decades Russia had denied responsibility, and only<br />
recently had steps been taken to mend bridges.<br />
Strangely, the tragedy served to bring these two ancient<br />
foes closer together and many Poles, at the time, were left<br />
impressed by the sympathetic reaction of Putin & Co. As<br />
with all high profile disasters speculation as to the cause<br />
continues to be rife. The official Russian air authority report<br />
into the incident laid the blame squarely on the pilots who<br />
they claim ignored instructions to land elsewhere because<br />
of the poor weather conditions. They also suggested the<br />
presence and distraction of unauthorized personnel in the<br />
cockpit as the key to the tragedy. At first this had been<br />
thought to have been the president himself – a man who<br />
once notoriously insisted his pilots fly against their judgement<br />
and land in war torn Tbilisi – though black box evidence<br />
now points to the intrusion at members of the entourage.<br />
While Kaczyński had been widely forecast to lose heavily<br />
in elections due for the autumn of 2010, the episode had<br />
wider implications. Also on board were the first lady, the<br />
head of the national bank, leading politicians and the heads<br />
of the army, navy and air force; at a stroke Poland lost its<br />
political, military and economic elite. Despite Kaczyński’s<br />
unpopularity the outpouring of grief was unmatched since<br />
the death of Pope John Paul II, and churches packed out<br />
as mourners paid their respects. <strong>In</strong> the capital thousands<br />
lined the streets when the bodies of Mr and Mrs Kaczyński<br />
were returned, and for the next week the streets outside<br />
the Presidential Palace were turned into a giant shrine as<br />
people converged to lay flowers and light candles – on April<br />
17th alone, over 100,000 mourners gathered in Piłsudski<br />
Square to listen to a state service.<br />
But even in death Kaczyński remained a divisive and<br />
controversial figure. The decision to bury him in Kraków’s<br />
Wawel Cathedral, the ancient resting site of monarchs<br />
and saints, split Poles down the middle, with many<br />
protesting the decision with the slogan ‘<strong>Warsaw</strong> for<br />
Presidents, Kraków for Kings’. Held on April 18th 2010<br />
the funeral was marked with a service in Kraków’s St<br />
Mary’s Cathedral, before the coffins were transported<br />
with military escort to the crypt of Wawel.<br />
Since then however President Kaczynski’s twin brother<br />
and his opposition party have openly accused the current<br />
government of negligence and relations between Poland<br />
and Russia have been strained by what the Poles see<br />
as a total whitewash in the report of any Russian blame.<br />
www.prezydent.pl<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
29
30 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 31<br />
Ask your Concierge<br />
Dear Guests and<br />
readers of <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>, I am<br />
pleased to say that the fabulous<br />
winter time is on its way. This is<br />
my favourite time of the year as<br />
we’ll have the chance to enjoy the<br />
fabulous seasonal illuminations<br />
along the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Royal Route,<br />
which turns a simple walk into an<br />
almost fairytale experience. It’s<br />
also time for the Christmas Market in the Old Town Square!<br />
You’ll find me there among other <strong>Warsaw</strong> residents and<br />
tourists looking for handcrafted souvenirs, fur hats,<br />
traditional Polish cold cuts, breads, cakes, marinated<br />
mushrooms or simply having a cup of mulled wine, which<br />
tastes just great outdoors when thermometers show near<br />
or even below zero centigrade.<br />
Looking at the cultural offer of <strong>Warsaw</strong> theatres, I would like<br />
to mention the Roma Theater with its musical “Deszczowa<br />
piosenka” based on the 1952 movie “Dancing in the rain”<br />
with the legendary Gene Kelly. With its well-known story<br />
and songs, this will most likely be the musical mostly<br />
appreciated by foreigners. The Congress Hall of the<br />
Palace of Culture and Science, where congresses of the<br />
former Polish United Worker’s Party were held under the<br />
communist regime, is now a stage for attractive concerts<br />
and shows, including the “Nutcracker” and “Swan Lake”<br />
performed by the famous Moscow City Ballet on December<br />
14th and 15th respectively. You then have the chance<br />
to see the Glenn Miller Orchestra on December 16th<br />
and the legendary British band “Smokie” on December<br />
18th. Recommendations would not be complete without<br />
mentioning the biggest opera stage in Europe which we have<br />
here in <strong>Warsaw</strong>. For me the highlights of the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Opera<br />
House repertoire in December are “Madame Butterfly” and<br />
“Oniegin”. January will be the month of Giuseppe Verdi with<br />
“Don Carlo”, “Requiem” and finally “Nabucco”. Classical<br />
music fans should not miss the Philharmonic Hall, offering<br />
the opportunity to enjoy the music of some of the world’s<br />
greatest composers performed by renowned orchestras<br />
and soloists from Poland and abroad, nearly every day.<br />
From the long list of <strong>Warsaw</strong> museums and galleries I<br />
will only recommend one place not to be missed: the<br />
Copernicus Center of Science. Named after the Polish<br />
astronomer who first realized that the Earth orbits the<br />
Sun it’s a place where you may carry out your own<br />
experiments. Beware Saturday and Sunday can be quite<br />
busy and involve queuing.<br />
Dear Guest, if location matters for you, I’d assume you’d<br />
stay at our Sofitel <strong>Warsaw</strong>, which has all the sights<br />
mentioned above within a short walk, and is found in a<br />
quiet area overlooking the Saski Gardens and the Tomb<br />
of the Unknown Soldier. If you are not staying with us<br />
please pay us a visit to try the splendid menu in our<br />
restaurant where you will find your own good reasons to<br />
come back. Finally, no matter what questions you have,<br />
please contact any of my colleagues in other hotels or<br />
me at the Sofitel for any information which we will be<br />
delighted to tailor especially to your needs. We are always<br />
pleased to share our knowledge and experience. Enjoy<br />
your stay in our wonderful city - <strong>Warsaw</strong>!<br />
Piotr Prasuła<br />
Chief Concierge<br />
Sofitel <strong>Warsaw</strong> Victoria Hotel<br />
President of Les Clefs d’Or Poland<br />
Upmarket<br />
Hilton <strong>Warsaw</strong> Hotel & Convention Centre E-3,<br />
ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. (+48) 22 356 55 55, www.<br />
hiltonwarsaw.pl. Although only open since 2007 the Hilton<br />
already feels like an established big shot on <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s four<br />
star circuit. And it can’t be denied, there’s a hefty dose of<br />
wow factor to swallow - from a breathtaking glass lobby to<br />
the best (and biggest) conference facilities in the city. But<br />
it’s not just about business. The hotel touts a gorgeous 25<br />
metre pool, while the top floor executive lounge provides<br />
diversions by way of DVDs, snacks, computer games and<br />
private check in. As for the rooms, they’re just what you’d<br />
expect from a brand like Hilton. Accommodation comes with<br />
a stylish modern look, walk-in showers and flat screen televisions.<br />
Particularly impressive are the corner suites, complete<br />
with floor-to-ceiling views of downtown <strong>Warsaw</strong>. Q314 rooms<br />
(303 singles, 303 doubles, 10 apartments, 1 Presidential<br />
Suite). POTHAR6UFLGKDCW hhhh<br />
Holiday <strong>In</strong>n Warszawa (Mercure Warszawa Centrum)<br />
A-4, ul. Złota 48/54, tel. (+48) 22 697 39 99,<br />
www.orbis.pl. A trademark Holiday <strong>In</strong>n (which will become<br />
Mercure Warszawa Centrum as of January 1) with a location<br />
hemmed in by the Palace of Culture and Złote Tarasy shopping<br />
centre. Find immaculate facilities throughout, and a standard<br />
just typical of the HI crest. It might look small and squat compared<br />
to its neighbours but this hotel is deceptively large, with<br />
a quick tour revealing designer boutiques, fitness facilities and<br />
a beauty parlour. Q336 rooms (54 singles, 272 doubles, 10<br />
apartments). PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhh<br />
Novotel Warszawa Centrum B-4, ul. Marszałkowska<br />
94/98, tel. (+48) 22 596 00 00, www.accorhotels.<br />
com. A sleek silver skyscraper with grandstand views of the<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> skyline one of the big pluses. Subject of a thorough<br />
overhaul the Novotel Centrum gets points for both location<br />
and size, meaning it’s not rare to find it overrun with tour<br />
groups and conferences. Upstairs find revamped rooms<br />
offering all the four star extras, including “Executive” rooms<br />
(with iPod docking stations) and even studio and apartment<br />
options. Q733 rooms (50 singles, 661 doubles, 12 suites, 10<br />
apartments). PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhh<br />
Polonia Palace Hotel B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 318 28 00, www.poloniapalace.com. Originally<br />
built in 1913 the Polonia Palace has seen it all, from a victory<br />
banquet hosted by Eisenhower to the Miss World girls back<br />
in 2006. The exterior has benefited from a full facelift, and<br />
now dazzles amid its soot-clad neighbours. Slidey doors open<br />
onto a grand marble lobby, while upstairs amply portioned<br />
rooms reveal modern fittings among ‘made-to-look-old’<br />
furniture. New 32” and 40” LED TVs and hotel-wide Wi-Fi<br />
extend the modern upgrades. Pride of place goes to the<br />
apartment, whose defining feature is a raised lounge area<br />
with an oval-shaped window. Q206 rooms (198 singles, 198<br />
doubles, 7 suites, 1 apartment). PTHAR6UF<br />
GKDwW hhhh<br />
Radisson Blu Sobieski Hotel E-3, Pl. Zawiszy<br />
1, tel. (+48) 22 579 10 00, www.radissonblu.com/<br />
sobieski-warsaw. The façade has a garish rainbow-colored<br />
paint job, but fortunately this newest addition to the Radisson<br />
Blu chain has a much more subtle interior featuring a<br />
marble lobby, big rooms and fitness facilities. Rooms were<br />
recently refurbished and are now sparklingly modern. And<br />
we applaud any changes that mean this hotel isn’t going to<br />
charge guests for <strong>In</strong>ternet use anymore. Q435 rooms (60<br />
singles, 328 doubles, 40 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite).<br />
PTHAR6UFGKDwW hhhh<br />
Mid-range<br />
Boutique Bed & Breakfast C-4, ul. Smolna 14/6,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 829 48 01, www.bbwarsaw.com. Quiet<br />
and cobbled, Smolna is not a typical city centre street,<br />
and neither is this your typical set of apartments. Apartments<br />
suit all budgets, though the Queen - with a large<br />
living space - is well worth the extra outlay. Accommodation<br />
has been designed to evoke a real atmosphere<br />
of home-away-from-home and features lots of flowers,<br />
natural wood and personal touches courtesy of Jarek,<br />
your host. Q21 rooms (3 singles, 16 doubles, 2 apartments).<br />
THAGW<br />
Campanile E-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 582 72<br />
00, www.campanile.com.pl. Decorated with chequered<br />
patterns and green and yellow colour schemes the Campanile<br />
accommodation includes satellite TV and pristine<br />
bathrooms. High standards and a central location. Q194<br />
rooms (194 singles, 194 doubles). PTHA6UG<br />
KW hh<br />
Castle <strong>In</strong>n B-2, ul. Świętojańska 2 (entrance<br />
from Pl. Zamkowy), tel. (+48) 22 425 01 00, www.<br />
castleinn.pl. When students grow up, grow rich and<br />
can no longer stand hostels, they stay in places like<br />
this. A dream of a hotel at the centre of Old Town you<br />
can expect big rooms, all with individual decor - some<br />
classy, some kitsch, all good fun - and - wait for it -<br />
velvet doors. Best of all though are the rooms which<br />
have the massive (and we mean massive) bathrooms.<br />
We dare you to find bigger bathrooms than those on<br />
offer here in any other hotel in <strong>Warsaw</strong>. Much like their<br />
clientele the owners of this place have also graduated<br />
up from hostels (they run the Oki-Doki). If this is what<br />
becomes of hostels when they grow up, bring it on. Q22<br />
rooms (3 singles, 10 doubles, 1 triple, 8 apartments).<br />
TYHA6GW<br />
Golden Tulip <strong>Warsaw</strong> Centre E-3, ul. Towarowa<br />
2, tel. (+48) 22 582 75 00, www.goldentulipwarsawcentre.com.<br />
A very favourable price to quality<br />
trade-off here, with plenty of room, heavenly beds and<br />
a warm welcome all part of the deal. However, our favourite<br />
detail is the breakfast, clearly one of the best<br />
in the city. What a spread! A hotel with big ideas that<br />
is rightfully putting its sights on getting a fourth star<br />
very soon. Q144 rooms (144 singles, 144 doubles).<br />
PTHA6UFGKDW hhh<br />
Ibis Stare Miasto A-1, ul. Muranowska 2, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 310 10 00, www.accorhotels.com. More<br />
of the same from Ibis: international standards at competitive<br />
prices. Best of all, its location ten minutes<br />
from the Old Town means that your immediate choice<br />
is no longer limited to spending suitcases of cash in<br />
the Bristol. Q333 rooms (333 singles, 333 doubles).<br />
PTHA6UGKW hh<br />
Ibis Warszawa Centrum D-2, Al. Solidarności 165,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 520 30 00, www.accorhotels.com. Reliable<br />
international standards, sensibly priced. Rooms come armed<br />
with all expected mod-cons. Q189 rooms (189 singles, 189<br />
doubles). PTHA6UGKW hh<br />
Maria D-1, Al. Jana Pawła II 71, tel. (+48) 22 838 40<br />
62, www.hotelmaria.pl. A small, family run hotel offering<br />
moderate prices and prim rooms featuring random floral<br />
designs. Q24 rooms (21 singles, 16 doubles, 3 apartments).<br />
PTA6KW hh<br />
Witold Pilecki<br />
As far as assignments go, it<br />
doesn’t get much bolder than<br />
this one: get rounded up and<br />
taken to Auschwitz on purpose<br />
and report back what<br />
is happening inside. Yes,<br />
the camp most people were<br />
trying to avoid was exactly<br />
where Poland’s Witold Pilecki<br />
volunteered to go in order to<br />
find out firsthand just what<br />
the Nazis were up to.<br />
Who was this courageous<br />
fellow? Pilecki was an officer<br />
in the Polish military with<br />
a long and impressive career that began with service<br />
during World War I and continued in the famed Battle of<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> (also known as the Miracle at the Vistula) that<br />
helped earn Polish independence in 1920. His efforts<br />
landed him two Krzyz Waleczynch (Cross of Valour) and<br />
in the post-war years the silver Cross of Merit for his<br />
work in the community. With the outbreak of World War II<br />
Pilecki was once again mobilised, but the country’s swift<br />
defeat at the hands of the Germans led Pilecki to found<br />
the Taina Armia Polska (Secret Polish Army), one of the<br />
first resistance organizations.<br />
Pilecki’s idea to infiltrate Auschwitz took root while working<br />
with TAP, and in 1940 he deliberately walked into a<br />
street roundup in <strong>Warsaw</strong> and became inmate #4859<br />
(under the alias Tomasz Serafiński) at Auschwitz. <strong>In</strong>side<br />
he wasted no time: in addition to organizing the underground<br />
Zwiazek Organizacji Woskowej (Union of Military<br />
Organizations) to assist inmates with extra food and<br />
clothing and provide news from the outside Pilecki also<br />
secretly built a radio to relay messages to his contacts. It<br />
was these dispatches – detailing the state of the camps,<br />
number of deaths and conditions of the inmates – that<br />
were forwarded to the Polish government in exile in<br />
London and onward to the Western allies. <strong>In</strong> April 1943<br />
Pilecki escaped from Auschwitz, hoping to convince the<br />
Home Army to undertake a rescue mission at the camp.<br />
Unfortunately Pilecki’s detailed reports on the millions<br />
being killed at Auschwitz were largely considered unbelievable,<br />
and the British declined to assist the Home<br />
Army in a rescue mission. Pilecki went on to serve during<br />
the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Uprising, and following the end of the war<br />
he essentially became a spy for the exiled government.<br />
It was in this role that Pilecki was arrested in 1947 by<br />
the Ministry of Public Security, tortured, and put on trial<br />
under trumped-up charges (future Polish prime minister<br />
and fellow Auschwitz inmate Jozef Cyrankiewicz testified<br />
against Pilecki). Unsurprisingly Pilecki was found guilty<br />
and swiftly executed by the communists on May 25,<br />
1948 at Mokotow Prison.<br />
<strong>In</strong>terest in Pilecki’s heroic story was stirred last summer<br />
when Polish authorities began digging up a mass grave<br />
on the edge of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s Powazki Military Cemetery in<br />
the hope of identifying his remains and subsequently<br />
honouring the man. So far more than 100 skeletons have<br />
been exhumed from the pit, which is ironically located not<br />
far from the tombs of the very judges and prosecutors<br />
who condemned Pilecki to death.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
32 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 33<br />
MDM F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. (+48) 22 339 16<br />
00, www.hotelmdm.com.pl. Occupying a spot at the<br />
top of Marszałkowska most rooms in the MDM feature<br />
grandstand views of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s finest piece of socialist<br />
realism: pl. Konstytucji. Accommodation comes with<br />
plum coloured carpets and predictable three star comfort.<br />
Q134 rooms (21 singles, 108 doubles, 5 suites).<br />
THA6UGKW hhh<br />
Metropol F-3, ul. Marszałkowska 99a, tel. (+48)<br />
22 325 31 00, www.hotelmetropol.com.pl. For many<br />
years this hotel acted as a reminder of what <strong>Warsaw</strong> Cold<br />
War hotels used to look like, the difference to modern day<br />
standards made all the starker by the re-construction and<br />
re-modelling of neighbouring hotels including the Metropol’s<br />
sister hotel Polonia Palace. Those days are now past and<br />
the hotel has been scrubbed and rooms bought up to a<br />
decent standard. For price/location this is now one of<br />
the city’s better options for those on a budget. Q191<br />
rooms (180 singles, 180 doubles, 11 suites). PTA<br />
R6UGKW hhh<br />
Sleepwell Apartments C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 62,<br />
tel. (+48) 600 30 07 49, www.sleepwell-warsaw.pl.<br />
Sitting above Nowy Świat, <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s swankiest tourist<br />
stroll, Sleepwell has one of the best locations in the city;<br />
in one direction are the clubs of Foksal street, and in the<br />
other the stunning Old Town. <strong>In</strong>side the nine rooms all have<br />
home theatres, mini-fridges and giant LCD televisions, but<br />
each one is decorated in a unique and sometimes jarring<br />
style. One room features a murderous manga assassin<br />
painted on the wall, one room has a glittery carpet, and<br />
another has large fake roses romantically climbing the<br />
ceiling. Reception is in a separate building so guests must<br />
call ahead for initial access, and no common space means<br />
breakfast is not included (though a discount is available<br />
at Café Vincent downstairs). Q9 rooms (9 singles, 9<br />
doubles). A6GW<br />
Airport Hotels<br />
Courtyard by Marriott <strong>Warsaw</strong> Airport ul.<br />
Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 01 00,<br />
www.courtyardwarsawairport.com. <strong>In</strong> many senses<br />
this place, almost directly opposite the airline check-in<br />
desks, is an extension of <strong>Warsaw</strong> Airport. People use<br />
the superb lobby bar as a departure lounge, and for<br />
those with an early morning start the big, comfortable<br />
rooms here are as good a place as any to wait for a<br />
flight. Fear not the noise of the planes: we slept like<br />
a baby (as did our baby) even though our room had a<br />
direct view of the runway. Q236 rooms (113 singles,<br />
121 doubles, 2 apartments). PTHARUF<br />
GKW hhhh<br />
Holiday <strong>In</strong>n Express <strong>Warsaw</strong> Airport ul.<br />
Poleczki 31 (Ursynów), tel. (+48) 22 373 37 00,<br />
www.hiexpress.com/hotels/us/en/warsaw/<br />
wawwa/hoteldetail. Those wanting easy access<br />
to the airport just short of sleeping on the runway<br />
will find the brand new Holiday <strong>In</strong>n Express to fit the<br />
bill perfectly. Just three minutes away and accessible<br />
via a convenient hotel shuttle, the Holiday <strong>In</strong>n<br />
promises amenities that are miss-your-flight worthy:<br />
wifi and flatscreens in every room, a complimentary<br />
breakfast buffet and a business corner for last-minute<br />
work needs. Q124 rooms (124 singles, 124 doubles).<br />
PTHAUGW hhh<br />
Budget<br />
BEST WESTERN Hotel Felix ul. Omulewska 24<br />
(Praga Południe), tel. (+48) 22 210 70 00, www.<br />
bwfelix.pl. Located over on the east side of the river 6km<br />
from the city centre, the Best Western falls comfortably<br />
into the Polish business/conference class of hotels. Having<br />
received a complete makeover and refurb, what you now<br />
have is effectively a very comfortable, brand new hotel at<br />
extremely competitive prices. Handy if you’re planning on<br />
spending your time in the fashionable adjacent Praga district.<br />
Q227 rooms (96 singles, 120 doubles, 5 triples, 3 suites).<br />
TYHAR6ULGKW hhh<br />
BEST WESTERN Hotel Portos H-7, ul. Mangalia 3a,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 207 60 00, www.bwportos.pl. What was<br />
once a Start Hotel has been overhauled by Best Western,<br />
transforming this concrete block from outside (a stark<br />
new paint job that makes the building stand out next to its<br />
grubbier neighbours) to inside (that new carpet smell!). The<br />
chain seems to be angling for business travellers, and visitors<br />
will enjoy new LCD televisions, laptop computer rests<br />
and even slippers. We’re baffled as to why this makeover<br />
only includes Wi-Fi on select floors, but cosmetically it’s<br />
impressive. An ideal location for travelers looking for quick<br />
access to the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Trade Fair & Congress Center. Q230<br />
rooms (230 singles, 156 doubles, 8 suites). TYHA<br />
R6ULGKW hhh<br />
Ibis Budget Warszawa Centrum H-3, ul. Zagórna 1,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 745 36 60, www.accorhotels.com. A super<br />
addition to <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s budget bracket, this hotel is in the midst<br />
of a brand shift so you may find yourself checking into an Etap<br />
or, if the transition is complete, an Ibis hotel. Either way it’s a<br />
winning formula here: bright, modern rooms inside a sparkling<br />
white building in the quiet Powiśle district. The rooms come<br />
with a simple design but your cash gets you all the facilities<br />
the modern traveller requires: wireless net access, en-suite<br />
bathrooms and cable television. Q176 rooms (176 singles,<br />
176 doubles, 14 triples). PA6UGW h<br />
Noclegi Okęcie Al. Krakowska 236 (Włochy), tel.<br />
(+48) 696 07 00 40, www.noclegiokecie.pl. Magnolia,<br />
one of Noclegi Okęcie’s three accommodations coupled<br />
near the airport (the neighbouring two buildings, Pod Lipami<br />
and U Jakuba are set up hostel-style) has newly remodelled<br />
single and double en-suite modern rooms that will delight<br />
budget travelers: free Wi-fi, an outdoor space for lounging,<br />
immaculate cleanliness and enough distance from the road<br />
to make sleeping a breeze. Breakfast isn’t included, but<br />
the hotel’s nearby restaurant Totu (Al. Krakowska 236) has<br />
reasonably priced Polish fare. Q46 rooms (25 singles, 26<br />
doubles, 8 triples, 7 quads). PAR6GKW<br />
Premiere Classe E-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. (+48) 22<br />
624 08 00, www.premiereclasse.com. One of the best<br />
budget options in the city, and as such often fully booked.<br />
Basic, modern rooms come equipped with private bathrooms<br />
and television, and the location is just a tram stop from<br />
the train station. Q126 rooms (126 singles, 126 doubles).<br />
PTA6UGW h<br />
Start Hotel Atos H-7, ul. Mangalia 1, tel. (+48) 22<br />
207 70 00, www.hotelatos.pl. Another hotel where<br />
spending the extra on a premium ‘komfort’ room is wholly<br />
encouraged. Doing so gains you digs in clean, renovated<br />
rooms with functional furniture and wifi and tv. Cutting costs<br />
gets you something altogether more basic. Q231 rooms<br />
(231 singles, 106 doubles, 109 triples). TYHA<br />
R6ULGK h<br />
Apartments<br />
<strong>In</strong>terContinental A-4, ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. (+48)<br />
22 328 88 88, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com.<br />
Luxury apartments aimed at the long-stay corporate traveller.<br />
Guests are awarded all the privileges granted to those staying<br />
in the hotel, including 24hr room service and use of the<br />
fitness centre. Q78 rooms (78 apartments). PTHA<br />
R6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh<br />
P&O Apartments B-2, ul. Miodowa 12 lok.22, tel.<br />
(+48) 508 13 59 95, www.pandoapartments.com.pl.<br />
Good looking, modern furnished apartments in locations<br />
across <strong>Warsaw</strong> - both centre and out. All sizes, and all<br />
budgets, though with a distinct slant towards the higher end<br />
of the market. Q60 rooms (60 apartments). A6GW<br />
Residence St. Andrew’s Palace B-4, ul. Chmielna 30,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 826 46 40, www.residencestandrews.pl.<br />
Fantastic apartments in a wonderful, fully renovated building<br />
in the most central location possible: ul. Chmielna. Not a penny<br />
was spared in the decoration and kitting out of these places, and<br />
the nice little touches that are found all over - from the marble in<br />
the bathrooms to the fully fitted kitchens with washing machines<br />
and dishwashers - will convince you that this was money well<br />
spent. Free wifi and daily cleaning included. If this were a hotel,<br />
it would be in the Cream of the Crop section, these apartments<br />
are that nice. Q24 rooms (24 apartments). PTARGW<br />
Hostels<br />
Moon C-3, ul. Foksal 16, tel. (+48) 22 468 00 66,<br />
www.moonhostel.pl. If it’s all about location then Moon<br />
Hostel’s new <strong>Warsaw</strong> location is one of the best, with a prime<br />
building in the heart of bustling Foksal. The 26 rooms range<br />
from one to eight beds, some with ensuite bathrooms, and<br />
in-room flatscreen tvs. The combined kitchen/lounge area<br />
is naturally sparklingly new, with cushy leather sofas and a<br />
foosball table ready for action. Ideal for visitors who want their<br />
hostel to feel like a hotel. Q26 rooms (2 singles, 14 doubles,<br />
5 triples, 3 quads, 1 Five-person room , 1 Six-person room ,<br />
1 Seven-person room , 1 Eight-person room). A6GW<br />
Oki Doki B-3, Pl. Dąbrowskiego 3, tel. (+48) 22 828<br />
01 22, www.okidoki.pl. A charismatic hostel stuffed with<br />
abstract art, bits and pieces from thrift stores and wacky<br />
colour schemes. Rooms (and the reception area) are currently<br />
getting a small refurb though they still don’t have numbers, just<br />
themes, and have been designed by a team of local artists.<br />
Take a look at ‘The Realm of Narnia’, like something straight<br />
out of C.S. Lewis, or ‘The Communist Dorm’, filled with commie<br />
iconography and scenes from Socialist Paradise. Kitchen<br />
and internet also available for guests (iffy in rooms, always in<br />
common spaces), as well as what the owners promise is ‘the<br />
cheapest beer in <strong>Warsaw</strong>’. For something more upmarket<br />
check into the decidely boutique Castle <strong>In</strong>n, a second pet venture<br />
from the same team behind the Oki Doki. Q37 rooms (1<br />
single, 21 doubles, 5 triples, 60 Dorm beds). TYA6G<br />
Team Hostel D-7, ul. Lechicka 23 B, tel. (+48) 22 868<br />
09 68, www.teamhostel.com. Get recruited for Team<br />
Hostel, a newcomer that makes the hostelling experience<br />
rather plush with air conditioned rooms, free wi-fi and a location<br />
that splits the difference between the airport and the city<br />
centre. With easy access to public transit you’ll be in bunk<br />
bed heaven here, where guests can choose from the private<br />
two-bed option or the more communal 20-bed megaroom.<br />
Be sure to test the staff’s insider tips to the city, which are<br />
nothing short of comprehensive. Q14 rooms (2 singles, 2<br />
doubles, 100 Dorm beds). TA6GW<br />
Are you tired of staying in standard hotels?<br />
Feel at home in P&O Apartments in <strong>Warsaw</strong>.<br />
P&O Apartments offers you accommodation for rent<br />
in the center of the City for overnight stays or for longer<br />
visits and helps you to feel at home in <strong>Warsaw</strong>.<br />
We offer professional service, quality and excellent<br />
locations as well as competitive pricing.<br />
land line +48 22 636 86 99,<br />
mobile +48 508 135 995<br />
e-mail: booking@pandoapartments.eu<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternet: www.pandoapartments.com.pl<br />
For sun lovers we offer properties for<br />
Sale & Rental on the Costa Del Sol in Spain.<br />
Visit our new and modern office<br />
in Marbella on Costa del Sol or call us<br />
+34 663 652 145; +34951245424<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternet: www.pandoapartments.es<br />
email: costadelsol@pandoapartments.es<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
34 RESTAURANTS<br />
Eating at a glance<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>’s come a long<br />
way and fast, and nowhere<br />
is the urban vibrancy<br />
more apparent<br />
than in the city’s progressive<br />
culinary scene.<br />
The immediate postcommunist<br />
obsession<br />
with Italian has since<br />
given way to fusion, sushi and - most recently - steak,<br />
and dining out is now a truly international experience.<br />
Disappointments do still exist, however, with gruff, ditzy<br />
or plainly incompetent service being a common lament.<br />
You’d think the opening hours we list are self-explanatory.<br />
Not so. Venues will more often than not close their doors<br />
if business is slow. Other ‘restobars’ often employ different<br />
sets of hours for bar and kitchen - the times we<br />
list in such cases are for the kitchen, and the prices we<br />
list in brackets denote the cost of the cheapest and<br />
most expensive main course on the menu. <strong>In</strong> regards to<br />
tipping, either round the bill up or leave 10% - but only if<br />
you think the service warrants it. Here is a selection of<br />
recommendations depending what you are looking for.<br />
Business<br />
Restauracja Różana is an experienced local offering<br />
that will impress the client and give you room to talk shop,<br />
while Butchery and Wine recently won accolades as<br />
the city’s top restaurant. For a more casual atmosphere<br />
we’ve spotted many briefcases and ties at Socjal’s<br />
communal table.<br />
Cheap<br />
The many Bar Mleczny canteens (Milk Bars) are a<br />
legacy to the communist past, and while they’re cheap<br />
you may wish to skip them unless you really are bone<br />
broke and starving.<br />
Couples<br />
Solec 44 has a solid menu and a regular array of cultural<br />
events and lectures that you can take your sweetheart to<br />
(and talk about long afterwards) while Halka has elegant<br />
date night interiors and a menu to match.<br />
Kids<br />
Hard Rock Cafe is always going to be a favourite and<br />
they do know how to make your special ones feel special,<br />
with tot-friendly food and plenty of rock memorabilia to<br />
entertain them through their meal not to mention regular<br />
live music shows.<br />
Lads<br />
The <strong>Warsaw</strong> Tortilla Factory is the place to prove<br />
your worth to the team by guzzling lager from private<br />
taps while noshing on the city’s best burritos. If you like<br />
meatier fare we’ve got plenty of burger recommendations<br />
like Barn Burger and Burger Bar to share while<br />
steak lovers should head directly to 99 Restaurant<br />
and Bar.<br />
Polski<br />
Eat Commie style in Oberż a Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem,<br />
or for a more upscale take on Polish cuisine try Dom<br />
Polski. Celebrity chef Magda Gessler makes Polish food<br />
stylish at the popular Slony.<br />
African<br />
La MaMa A-2, ul. Andersa 23, tel. (+48) 22 226 35<br />
05, www.lamama.eu. It helps to have an adventurous<br />
appetite at <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s newest contribution to African dining,<br />
where no one bats an eye if you order the baked goat head<br />
or a pile of fried gizzards. Stick to safer fare like the African<br />
risotto with beef and fried plantain and your stomach will<br />
thank you - and be sure to add a Nigerian beer like Star or<br />
Gulder. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (20-40zł).<br />
PTAUEXSW<br />
American<br />
Hard Rock Cafe B-4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel.<br />
(+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Is there<br />
anything more American than sinking your teeth into a 10oz<br />
burger stacked with cheddar and bacon while staring at the<br />
jacket worn by Jimi Hendrix on the cover of Are You Experienced?<br />
The Hard Rock Cafe has based a business around the<br />
concept of unrivalled burgers and impressive memorabilia,<br />
and <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s chapter is no different. The two-story venue<br />
features a wall made of 675 guitars and menu items like hefty<br />
nachos and barbecue ribs. The dark basement bar churns<br />
out heaping drinks that look like they require two straws.<br />
Even the bathrooms are painfully cool, labelled “Guns” for<br />
him and “Roses” for her. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (33-115zł).<br />
TAUEGSW<br />
Sioux B-4, ul. Chmielna 35, tel. (+48) 22 827 82 55,<br />
www.sioux.com.pl. Sioux interprets the American Wild<br />
West as only a chain of themed restaurants can: cheesely.<br />
Grab a Conestoga wagon booth or a table under a framed<br />
photo of Chief Sitting Bull and peruse a menu that tries to<br />
recreate life around the campfire with unimpressive ribs,<br />
cold fries and a random selection of Mexican offerings like<br />
fajitas and burritos. You’ll find a Sioux serving up cheap,<br />
completely average food in almost every city of size in Poland,<br />
and unless you’re a diehard wagon wheel fanatic, trot<br />
your spurs on to a more interesting (and flavourful) option.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (20-99zł).<br />
PTAUGSW<br />
SomePlace Else C-4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.<br />
warszawa.someplace-else.pl. SPE has been serving<br />
up some of the best burgers in <strong>Warsaw</strong> for as long as<br />
we can remember, and a recent visit shows little has<br />
changed: the Orient Express burger is a marriage of lamb<br />
and roast beef doused in hallumi cheese and Mediterranean<br />
veggies - epic and creative. The large, open bar<br />
is capable of mixing up anything you can think of, including<br />
a spicy bloody Mary to accompany the Sheraton’s<br />
brunch, which is served here on Sunday. Recommended<br />
particularly if you are sleeping upstairs so you won’t have<br />
far to haul your happily fed self. QOpen 12:00 - 00:30,<br />
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (41-160zł).<br />
PTAUEGSW<br />
T.G.I. Friday’s E-2, Al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. (+48)<br />
22 653 83 60, www.tgifridays.pl. The Friday’s experience<br />
as replicated the world over, so no surprises to find<br />
Americana aplenty and staff fitted out with bells, whistles<br />
and other moronic markings. The <strong>Warsaw</strong> op features<br />
decent burgers and, if you catch them on the right day,<br />
some smashing steaks. By day a family fave, at night<br />
it’s a bit more grown up with expats and locals, usually<br />
in office attire, drinking shots and braying for cocktails.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (33-75zł).<br />
PTAUGSW<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com
36 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 37<br />
Breakfast<br />
Not everyone has the pleasure of waking to a five star<br />
breakfast, so it’s good news that there are early bird<br />
eating options that go beyond foraging in bins. First<br />
off, take a look at Żurawia - Café 6/12 is a legend,<br />
and their breakfasts cover all the bases from bagels<br />
to pancakes to something that isn’t too dissimilar to a<br />
British breakfast. Down the road and You & Me also<br />
attempt Brit brekkie as well as numerous continental<br />
options. Not bad, unlike your pl. Trzech Krżyży options.<br />
There’s always a crowd in Szpilka but go beyond a<br />
croissant and you’ll be wishing you hadn’t got out of<br />
bed. Subway have a bunch of locations around the city<br />
and you could do a lot worse for something on the run.<br />
Speaking of fast food, the ubiquitous McBreakfast<br />
is on sale from very early at the easiest location to<br />
get to, that being the one in the underground part of<br />
Warszawa Centralna railway station. Irish breakfast is<br />
available from in Bradley’s though for a true power<br />
breakfast head to 99.<br />
99 Restaurant & Bar A-3, Al. Jana Pawła II 23,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 620 19 99, www.restaurant99.com.<br />
Four types of breakfast on offer served from Monday<br />
to Friday - from simple French (pancakes, croissants<br />
and cakes, 17zł) to a Polish option (26zl) that includes<br />
scrambled eggs with extras, cottage cheese and a sausage<br />
and cheese platter. Q Breakfast served Mon - Fri,<br />
08:00 - 11:00. PTAUXSW<br />
Café 6/12 C-4, ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22<br />
622 53 33, www.612.pl. Around 40 breakfast options,<br />
including pancakes, bagels, sandwiches and ciabattas<br />
as well as a not bad attempt at English breakfast (eggs,<br />
home-made sausages, cocktail tomatoes, bread). Found<br />
close to the centre, the outdoor terrace on <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s<br />
main media agency street, is a great place to sit in<br />
warmer months. Q Breakfast served 08:00 - 23:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. TA6GSW<br />
Hard Rock Cafe B-4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy),<br />
tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl.<br />
Special breakfast menu featuring omelettes, pancakes,<br />
eggs, juices, coffee etc. Prices starts from 9zł.<br />
Q Breakfast served 09:00 - 12:00. PTAUG<br />
SW<br />
McDonald’s A-4, Al. Jerozolimskie/ Jana Pawła II,<br />
pawilon 64, WPP (Warszawa Centralna), tel. (+48)<br />
694 49 60 18, www.mcdonalds.pl. When only the Egg<br />
McMuffin will do or it’s really early in the morning. Find<br />
it in the tunnels under <strong>Warsaw</strong> Central Train Station. Q<br />
Breakfast served 05:30 - 10:30, Sat, Sun 05:30 - 11:00.<br />
PAUGSW<br />
Subway C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 24, tel. (+48) 22 828<br />
40 25, www.swiezo.pl. A fast breakfast option (think<br />
handy egg sandwiches) when only on-the-go will do. Q<br />
Breakfast served 07:00 - 11:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-11:00.<br />
PAUGSW<br />
You & Me C-4, ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22 379<br />
03 79, www.youandmebar.pl. A range of breakfast<br />
priced at 21zł featuring traditional French and English<br />
selections or lighter fare like muesli and yoghurt, all with<br />
free coffee. Q Breakfast served 08:30 - 11:30, Sat, Sun<br />
12:00 - 16:00. PTAXSW<br />
Balkan<br />
Banja Luka B-3, ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. (+48) 22 828<br />
10 60, www.banjaluka.pl. Reliable Banja Luka has<br />
moved! Sure, their Facebook page doesn’t seem to know<br />
it yet, but we do - where else do you head in <strong>Warsaw</strong> for<br />
monstrous portions of the best Balkan food in town?<br />
The more central spot means the city’s officebots have<br />
discovered a great new lunch special, with 24zł filling<br />
you with a new daily menu that sounds like what a small<br />
wrestling team might take down: large lumps of roast pork,<br />
pancakes with spinach, spicy fish soup and even baklava<br />
for dessert. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.<br />
(38-49zł). PTAEGSW<br />
Brazilian<br />
Browar de Brasil B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 76/80,<br />
tel. (+48) 534 60 09 90, www.browardebrasil.pl. The<br />
large copper tanks are your first clue that this new two-story<br />
churrascaria is serious about brewing their own high-quality<br />
beer. The attire worn by the waitresses might throw you off<br />
for a minute - yes, they are dressed in tacky, revealing faux<br />
football uniforms - but the four in-house beers are worthy,<br />
and carnivores will swoon at the ten different types of meat<br />
that arrive on a giant sword in all-you-can-eat style for<br />
64zł. Sure to be as popular as the flagship Łódź location.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (15-80zł).<br />
PTAXSW<br />
British<br />
Legends British Bar & Restaurant B-4, ul. Emilii<br />
Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legendsbar.<br />
pl. Legends is settling gently into its rhythm as the thinking<br />
(and eating) man’s football watching venue of choice.<br />
Basically has two things going for it: good British grub<br />
(a steak and kidney to relish is served), British ales and<br />
Sky Sports (if the waitress can work out which channel is<br />
showing what). What it needs now are a few pints spilt on<br />
the floor and a few rowdy evenings to knock off the ‘new’<br />
look. Find it a stone’s throw south of the Marriott hotel.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (25-50zł).<br />
PTA6XSW<br />
Burgers<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>’s restaurant trends come in tsunami-like waves that<br />
sweep over the city and change the dining landscape seemingly<br />
overnight. The latest culinary fad to dominate the city<br />
will please carnivorous folks: the two-handed burger is top of<br />
the heap, and there’s no shortage of great establishments<br />
slinging the city’s best patties.<br />
Barn Burger B-3, ul. Złota 9, tel. (+48) 512 15 75<br />
67, www.barnburger.pl. A success as soon as the doors<br />
opened, and so much so that they’ve already relocated to a<br />
larger space in the same neighbourhood, perhaps to make<br />
room for the expanding waistlines of their faithful clients.<br />
Decorated like a college common room with cult movie<br />
posters and some random Americana, Barn Burger has<br />
convinced plenty of coeds to ditch their diets and dive into<br />
juicy cheeseburgers or even the aptly-named ‘Heart Attack’<br />
burger (mmm, bacon!). Every sandwich is partnered with<br />
chubby fries and a cup of coleslaw, and you’re a champ if<br />
you can finish the entire wooden tray’s worth of food before<br />
you. If you’ve latched onto <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s current burger obsession,<br />
Barn Burger is the perfect place to play patty cake.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 21:30. (19-39zł).<br />
A6UGSW<br />
Burger Bar G-6, ul. Puławska 74/80. The space is<br />
small and the lines are long, but Burger Bar’s simple list of<br />
classic burgers makes up for what the location lacks (namely<br />
sides and much of a beverage selection). Choose from the<br />
chalkboard menu - we’ve had the juicy cheeseburger more<br />
than once - and tell the chef your selection. If the only other<br />
employee is on the phone he’ll ask you to pay later rather<br />
than handle your money, so grab a seat at one of the four<br />
odd tables and buckle up: this is a contender for <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s<br />
best burger, and you’re going to need both hands and plenty<br />
of napkins. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. AB<br />
Prosta Historia H-3, ul. Francuska 24, tel. (+48) 22<br />
870 13 25, www.prostahistoria.com. Prosta Historia is<br />
almost superhero-like in its ability to hide its true identity.<br />
The swank Saska Kępa location and bistro décor - butcher<br />
block tables, carnations in mason jars, French music tinkling<br />
from the speakers - make you think a menu of salads and<br />
soups await. But crack the menu and you’ll see a selection<br />
of creative burgers you’d expect to find at a greasy spoon.<br />
The Bollywood burger arrives with curry and chutney, while<br />
the more traditional Royal burger (which has the more typical<br />
cheddar, ketchup, onion and pickles) is a revelation. Throw<br />
in the fact that Prosta makes their own buns and French<br />
fries and it’s safe to say <strong>Warsaw</strong> has a new king of the beef<br />
patty. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 22:00. (18-58zł). PTAVGSW<br />
Chinese<br />
Cesarski Pałac B-2, ul. Senatorska 27, tel. (+48) 22<br />
827 97 07, www.cesarski-palac.com.pl. The lunch deal<br />
is one of the best value in the city, so expect a bit of a freefor-all<br />
once the clock hits one. The food is a mix of Chinese<br />
flavours, with more Szechuan than Beijing, though it’s this<br />
lack of focus that eventually hamstrings this locale: there’s<br />
just too much on offer. If they stuck to what they knew best<br />
it could easily become one of the better Asian eateries in<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:30 - 23:00, Sun<br />
12:30 - 22:00. (29-136zł). PTAUGSW<br />
China Garden ul. Kazachska 1 (Wilanów), tel. (+48) 22<br />
241 10 10, www.chinagarden.pl. Excellent food served in an<br />
elegant but relaxed atmosphere down in the moneyed Wilanów<br />
district of <strong>Warsaw</strong>. Unlike many Chinese restaurants the decoration<br />
is tastefully done with tiled floors, lanterns and lots of reds<br />
and blacks with an aquarium and fountain centrepieces. The<br />
food is authentic with a particular focus on the cuisine of the<br />
Jiangsu region and the menu offers a comprehensive choice of<br />
dishes including a beautifully presented Nanjing duck. Of note if<br />
you are visiting the palace at Wilanów, you’ll find it a 10 minute<br />
walk along Klimczaka, the start of which is the left of the two<br />
streets directly across the road from the palace entrance. It’s<br />
definitely worth the walk and arguably even the cab fare from the<br />
centre. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (22-59zł). PTAUGSW<br />
The Oriental C-3, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton <strong>Warsaw</strong> Hotel),<br />
tel. (+48) 22 450 67 05, www.theoriental.pl. Exquisite<br />
dishes at premium prices. The menu covers every kitchen<br />
from Japan to Singapore, with the seafood earning particularly<br />
high scores. Q Open 17:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:30.<br />
(35-140zł). PTAUGSW<br />
Czech<br />
U Szwejka F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. (+48) 22 339<br />
17 10, www.uszwejka.pl. This aging establishment,<br />
equipped with Czech street signs and images of simpleton<br />
Szwejk, is a bit of a <strong>Warsaw</strong> classic, and while it looks brash<br />
and basic the food is fine and the portions are scary. The<br />
GREAT PROMOTIONS<br />
ALL WEEK<br />
MONDAY<br />
Tap beer half price<br />
TUESDAY<br />
Two gurmańskia pljeskavica<br />
for the price of one<br />
WEDNESDAY<br />
Rakija‘s day<br />
THURSDAY & FRIDAY<br />
Fresh mussels<br />
SATURDAY<br />
Big butcher‘s swine<br />
SUNDAY<br />
Cooking school for kids<br />
ul. Szkolna 2/4, Warszawa<br />
tel. +48 (22) 828 10 60<br />
kontakt12@banjaluka.pl<br />
www.banjaluka.pl<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
38 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 39<br />
ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. (+48) 22 826 35 01<br />
www.buddha.info.pl<br />
www.facebook.com/Buddha.Poland<br />
steak is inconsistent, so best stick to ordering standards<br />
like sausages and schnitzel, and visit in summer when a<br />
terrace opens onto Pl. Konstytucji. Patience is a good tactic<br />
to use with the staff, but there’s certainly no criticism of the<br />
Pilsner on draught - cut the dismal waiting times by ordering<br />
in steins. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun<br />
13:00 - 24:00. (18-40zł). PTAEXSW<br />
French<br />
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino F-4, Al. Wyzwolenia 18<br />
(entrance from Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. (+48) 662 20 45<br />
55, www.bistrocharlotte.com. Sinking your teeth into<br />
Charlotte’s pain au chocolate you expect to hear La Seine<br />
bubbling past, but instead it’s your waitress bringing giant<br />
jars of jams, honey and chocolate spread to dig into - this<br />
doesn’t look like typical French portion control. This new<br />
French bakery/bistro is already a popular breakfast spot, and<br />
a communal table in the center of the restaurant is a genius<br />
solution for the many solo diners ducking in for a pastry and a<br />
latte. The service at this start-up is still spotty, but considering<br />
the crowds it’s also understandable. Charlotte is the ideal<br />
place to sip a Perrier and nibble a tart without feeling like le<br />
snob. QOpen 07:00 - 23:45, Fri 07:00 - 00:45, Sat 09:00 -<br />
00:45, Sun 09:00 - 21:45. (8-18zł). TA6UGSW<br />
La Rotisserie B-1, ul. Kościelna 12 (Mamaison Le Regina<br />
Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 531 60 70, www.rotisserie.com.pl.<br />
Tucked inside the elegant Mamaison Hotel, this high impact<br />
treasure presided over by chef Paweł Oszczyk will leave you<br />
bowled over. Decorated with calming vanilla and caramel colours,<br />
Rotisserie is a worthy indulgence if you’re looking to impress and<br />
have the bank to do it. The chef’s tasting menu is the place to<br />
splurge, with six courses of Polish/French cuisine that emphasises<br />
seasonal foods, while the three-course lunch menu lets<br />
budget conscious foodies get their hands on the likes of roasted<br />
loin of venison, risotto and a rich chocolate chestnut mousse<br />
with cognac ice cream. Recommended. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. (82-124zł). PTAUEGSW<br />
Saint Jacques A-3, ul. Świętokrzyska 34, tel. (+48)<br />
22 620 25 31, www.saintjacques.pl. Directly across<br />
the road from the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Financial Centre and a few more<br />
metres from the <strong>In</strong>tercontinental hotel, this French venture<br />
is adorably quaint and well located. A range of well-prepared<br />
French favourites (including frogs legs and snails) are served<br />
amongst black and white floor-to-ceiling pictures of French<br />
street scenes that make it easy to forget the busy city<br />
speeding by outside. The lamb shank with herbs and truffle<br />
puree and brunoise vegetables is their signature dish for a<br />
reason, but we were equally delighted with the rustic savoury<br />
crepes. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (28-56zł). PTAGSW<br />
Fusion<br />
Fusion A-3, Al. Jana Pawła II 21 (The Westin Hotel),<br />
tel. (+48) 22 450 86 31, www.restauracjafusion.pl.<br />
Beautifully presented food in the modern, if regularly quiet,<br />
interiors of the Westin hotel. The food here is very good, if a<br />
tad pricey compared to city restaurants, but you get what you<br />
pay for, with everything being of a superior quality. Regular<br />
seasonal specials based around particular ingredients keep<br />
happy local foodies coming back for more. Q Open 06:30 -<br />
10:30, 12:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:30 - 22:30.<br />
(45-150zł). PTAUGSW<br />
Theatro C-3, ul. Foksal 18, tel. (+48) 22 828 09 32,<br />
www.theatro1811.com. Newcomer Theatro is easily the<br />
most grown-up place on <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s busy Foksal Street. The<br />
interiors instantly wow - and make you reflexively smooth your<br />
attire - and show an impressive attention to detail in everything<br />
from the stone walls to the immaculately set tables. Where<br />
Theatro loses steam is its enormous menu; our waiter had to<br />
be sent away twice as we pawed through pages of just drink<br />
choices. “Fusion” seems to mean “everything but the kitchen<br />
sink,” and the well-priced entrees can be hit (mix vegetable<br />
salad) and miss (a gluey papardelle pasta). QOpen 10:00 -<br />
23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (30-54zł). PTAGSW<br />
Galician<br />
C.K. Oberża B-4, ul. Chmielna 28, tel. (+48) 22<br />
828 45 85, www.ckoberza.pl. Budget priced dinners,<br />
pints of lager and a bubbly atmosphere come presented<br />
inside a basic room decked out in dark woods. The menu<br />
is all pork chops, potato pancakes and plates of animals,<br />
and happily consumed by crowds who recognize a serious<br />
bargain. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
(17-35zł). AGS<br />
German<br />
Adler C-4, ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48) 22 628 73<br />
84, www.adlerrestauracja.pl. It’s been years since Adler<br />
was touted as a top restaurant, but those who do visit will<br />
find just that. Still popular with an over-40 business crowd<br />
this circular haunt comes laden with peasant contraptions,<br />
and serves up classic German recipes presented by girls<br />
dressed as Heidi. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 13:00 -<br />
23:30. (39-65zł). PTA6GS<br />
<strong>In</strong>dian<br />
Buddha <strong>In</strong>dian Restaurant C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 23,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 826 35 01, www.buddha.info.pl. Buddha<br />
really impressed when they opened up a couple of years<br />
back giving us very good <strong>In</strong>dian food right in the heart of the<br />
city. The decor is lush and extravagant, and the curries follow<br />
a similar suit with a spicy slap that puts them at the top<br />
of our list. The rest of the menu is monstrous, but helpfully<br />
benchmarked with symbols for hot, vegetarian and even kidfriendly<br />
dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
(30-130zł). PTAVGSW<br />
Namaste <strong>In</strong>dia C-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. (+48)<br />
22 357 09 39, www.namasteindia.pl. What began as a<br />
modest <strong>In</strong>dian-owned grocery store soon expanded into a<br />
full-on ethnic restaurant and proved so popular that a second<br />
location was needed to meet the demand for delicious <strong>In</strong>dian<br />
cuisine. For office workers around town, this - the original<br />
Namaste - remains the best, and we’ll agree that it simply<br />
doesn’t get much better for <strong>In</strong>dian food in the capital. Better<br />
still, the prices are set so low you can’t help but ask what’s<br />
the catch. There isn’t one; we’ve tried pretty much everything<br />
on the menu, and have yet to find a weak link. Consider ringing<br />
ahead for takeaway because waiting times can be torture.<br />
Also at ul. Piwna 12/14 (B-2). QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 22:00. (30-40zł). PUGSW<br />
Namaste <strong>In</strong>dia Clay Oven B-2, ul. Piwna 12/14,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 635 77 66, www.namasteindia.pl. When<br />
Namaste first opened it proved such a success story a new<br />
venue was needed to cope with the overflow custom. And if<br />
you thought the previous effort was pretty good, then bow<br />
down and worship at what is up there with the great <strong>In</strong>dian<br />
restaurants of Central Eastern Europe. There’s no such thing<br />
as a bad meal here, but to really hit the high notes order the<br />
butter chicken - incomparable to any other curry in town.<br />
Also at ul. Nowogrodzka 15 (C-4). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
(22-40zł). PTAVGS<br />
restauracja indyjska i tajska<br />
Authentic <strong>In</strong>dian and Thai cuisine<br />
prepared by chefs from <strong>In</strong>dia and Thailand.<br />
Wide range of alcoholic beverages.<br />
Special indian and thai lunch menu from 12 pm to 4 pm<br />
at very attractive prices.<br />
Ample space for organising private parties<br />
and corporate dinners.<br />
PL. KONSTYTUCJI 3, WARSAW<br />
For reservations please call<br />
TEL. 22 622 94 10, MOB. 797 597 100<br />
info@saffronspices.pl, www.saffronspices.pl<br />
Think <strong>In</strong>dia ... Think Namaste <strong>In</strong>dia<br />
ul. Nowogrodzka 15<br />
+48 22 357 09 39<br />
ul. Piwna 12/14 (Old Town)<br />
+48 22 635 77 66<br />
Mon-Sat 11.00 - 22.00, Sun 12.00 - 22.00<br />
info@namasteindia.pl | www.namasteindia.pl<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
40 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 41<br />
Saffron Spices F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. (+48) 22 622<br />
94 10, www.saffronspices.pl. Open less than a year and<br />
Saffron Spices has already made big changes, shifting the<br />
restaurant from a drab, undecorated space on Plac Konstytucji<br />
to a two-story mammoth with views of the street and more<br />
atmosphere. Fortunately the food remains consistently good:<br />
the restaurant’s signature lentil dish is an instant favourite, pairing<br />
deliciously with piping hot naan. The crunchy onion bhaji are<br />
also a good pre-meal option, especially since the speedy staff<br />
brings them out ahead of the main course. An additional Asian<br />
menu of dishes like pad Thai, fried rice and various Vietnamese<br />
dishes is now also available, but we’re partial to the <strong>In</strong>dian<br />
staples. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (20-80zł). PTUGSW<br />
Sheesha Lounge B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 3, tel. (+48)<br />
22 828 25 25, www.sheesha.pl. Already established<br />
as one of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s most exotic nightspots Sheesha also<br />
does a solid trade in luring the pre-drinks crowd in with a<br />
tantalising menu of eastern delights. Almost every table<br />
appears to order in bulk and share the piles of tikka masala<br />
or riyesh, then caps the meal off with a fruity sheesha pipe<br />
passed around the table for dessert. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,<br />
Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.<br />
(16-52zł). PTAEXSW<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational<br />
12 Stolików F-3, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 22 578<br />
23 88. If the idea of a restaurant not having a menu sounds<br />
pretentious, well, we thought the same thing. Fortunately the<br />
concept turns out to be charming at 12 Stolików, a small restaurant<br />
that writes the ever-changing offerings on a chalkboard<br />
facing diners. Waitresses are happy to interpret, and though<br />
the transient system means you might not get the delicious<br />
tomato soup with pesto or handmade ravioli that we did,<br />
FINE DINING UNTIL 24:00<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
their quality indicates you can’t go wrong. The high ceilings<br />
and stacks of wine crates are all that pass for décor, but we<br />
couldn’t take our eyes off the chef tempering chocolate on the<br />
centre island - call it dinner and show. And we’re not the only<br />
ones who think so: 12 Stolików was named one of the top five<br />
restaurants in <strong>Warsaw</strong> in 2011 by Gazeta Wyborcza newspaper.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Fri 08:00 - 22:30, Sat 10:00<br />
- 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (14-80zł). PA6UGSW<br />
Bierhalle C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. (+48) 609 67 77<br />
65, www.bierhalle.pl. Bierhalle have 2 locations in the city<br />
of which this is the more central. Located on the equivalent<br />
of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s main street, you’ll find bench seating, generous<br />
portions of good food and a tasty range of in-house brewed<br />
beers. Match a stein of fresh pils with something from their<br />
picture menu which features local favourites like pierogi, pork<br />
knuckle and kaszanka (a kind of black pudding) as well as<br />
dishes more often associated with Poland’s beer drinking<br />
neighbours; German Wurst, Austrian Schnitzel and Hungarian<br />
Goulash. Simple, accessible and with regular promotions<br />
make this a popular spot. Also at Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (D-1,<br />
Arkadia). QOpen 12:00 - 22:45, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:45, Sun<br />
12:00 - 21:45. (18-50zł). PTAGSW<br />
NEW<br />
Bordo C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 54/56 (entrance from ul.<br />
Gałczyńskiego), tel. (+48) 22 622 00 68, www.bordo.<br />
com.pl. Neatly tucked off Nowy Świat, this highly likeable,<br />
popular pre-party gem just wants to make you happy, and<br />
satisfaction is assured by a vast menu that covers all the<br />
food groups from soup, salad and sandwiches to pasta, pizza<br />
and grilled meats, shakes, cakes and ice cream. The drinks<br />
list is just as thorough, the breakfasts are a standout and<br />
prices are delightfully sub-Varsovian across the board. A<br />
modern interior full of comfortable, creme-coloured booths<br />
and a spacious downstairs means there’s plenty of room for<br />
every young couple on a cheap date, and every gaggle of gals<br />
getting ready to go out. If you don’t like Bordo, be advised:<br />
life is harder when you’re hard to please. Also at ul. Chmielna<br />
34 (B-4). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 22:00. (11-34zł). PiTA6IGSW<br />
NEW<br />
Brasserie Warszawska G-3, ul. Górnośląska 24,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 628 94 23, www.brasseriewarszawska.<br />
pl. From the fine folks behind the peerless Butchery & Wine<br />
comes Brasserie Warszawska - a culinary capstone that will<br />
surely court the attention of the folks at Michelin. Praise is<br />
well-deserved here with exquisitely prepared and presented<br />
cuisine matched by expert service in an interior that feels<br />
both modern and classic at the same time. Dishes like ‘baked<br />
monkfish with white beans, sun-dried tomatoes and chorizo’<br />
are worth every grosz, but Brasserie isn’t above offering their<br />
take on more pedestrian fare like the fish and chips special<br />
on Fridays. Elegant and upscale without overdoing it, if you’re<br />
looking to do some fine dining in the capital, you’ll be glad<br />
you did it here. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00.<br />
Closed Sun. (35-75zł). PTAUGW<br />
BrowArmia B-3, ul. Królewska 1, tel. (+48) 22 826 54<br />
55, www.browarmia.pl. <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s other microbrewery tends<br />
to mysteriously live in the shadow of the more famous Bierhalle,<br />
and though it fails to share the lively atmosphere of its rival, BrowArmia<br />
is by no means second best. The interior has a dark beer<br />
hall vibe with all the requisite pipes, dials and tanks on display, as<br />
well as a good menu that trounces the competition - the sticky<br />
wings pair perfectly with a BrowArmia pils. More importantly the<br />
beer is top standard and best imbibed on the seasonal terrace<br />
looking onto bustling Krakowskie Przedmieście. QOpen 12:00<br />
- 23:30. (27-66zł). PTAEXSW<br />
Concept C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 492 74 09, www.likusconceptstore.pl.<br />
It’s hard to do justice to Concept restaurant, one of the most<br />
impressive dining experiences to be found in <strong>Warsaw</strong>. Found<br />
inside a former pre-war bathhouse this place is accessed<br />
down a gloomy looking courtyard, flanked on each side by<br />
kebab stands and student dives. Don’t turn back. <strong>In</strong>stead<br />
duck through the entrance to find yourself in a whole different<br />
world. Decorated with glazed floor tiles, shimmery fabrics and<br />
a skylight this place looks every inch a masterpiece. Keeping<br />
up with the surrounds is the food, with a newly launched menu<br />
that includes a near perfect steak. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
Closed Sun. (29-99zł). PTAEXSW<br />
DeCoteria H-1, ul. Ząbkowska 16, tel. (+48) 603 60 22<br />
52, www.decoteriacafe.pl. A small restaurant with a pleasant<br />
orange interior, DeCoteria is one of the few clutter-free locations<br />
in Praga for a meal. Thanks to that role it has a crowd that mixes<br />
young Praga hipsters with moms toting strollers, all tucking<br />
into a menu that seems to offer dishes from around the globe<br />
(Hungarian-style pancakes with stew, for a start). We stuck to<br />
the Polish fare and found the potato pancakes to be a winner.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (14-45zł). PTA6UGSW<br />
Five A-3, ul. Grzybowska 5, tel. (+48) 793 53 53 53,<br />
www.fiverestaurant.eu. Guaranteed a steady flow of<br />
customers by its designer looks and top location amongst<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>’s biggest and best hotels, this place doesn’t have to<br />
be all that good, but is. <strong>In</strong> fact, recent visits have made us love<br />
the place all over again, as the menu of simple Italian classics<br />
always delivers a decent meal at a fair price. Look out for<br />
the changing specials, which on our last trip included some<br />
terrific grilled salmon with leek sauce. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30,<br />
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:30. (19-49zł). PTAUVGSW<br />
Concept 13 is located on the top fl oor<br />
of VITKAC - the fi rst luxury department<br />
store in the country. The bright, modern<br />
interior offers breathtaking views of<br />
the capital’s vibrant urban scenery. But<br />
the architecture is not all – the cuisine<br />
will satisfy even the most discerning<br />
gourmand. The modern international<br />
menu with Polish traditional accents<br />
guarantees culinary contentment.<br />
Bracka 9, <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
tel. +48 22 310 7373<br />
www.vitkac.com<br />
open: mon-sun 11.00-23.00<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
42 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 43<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Aleje Jerozolimskie 111, <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
tel. 22 629 80 08<br />
www.kredens.com.pl<br />
kredens@kredens.com.pl<br />
Flow C-3, ul. Chmielna 2, tel. (+48) 519 30 00<br />
68, www.flowbar.pl. A light, bright cafe bar on the<br />
corner of Chmielna and Nowy Świat, day time sees<br />
coffee and a decent choice of lunch options served in<br />
a modern setting with large windows offering plenty of<br />
people watching opportunities. As day turns to night,<br />
this turns into a decent pre-club option with guest DJs<br />
coming in to entertain the young and fashionable crowd.<br />
One of the few central places with an indoor smoking<br />
area incidentally. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (19-40zł).<br />
PAEXSW<br />
Galeria Freta B-1, ul. Freta 39, tel. (+48) 22 831<br />
02 35, www.galeriafreta.pl. Bar? Restaurant? Café?<br />
A mix of all to be honest, and a highly impressive addition<br />
to an area more known for its tourist traps. Landmarks<br />
here include a glass topped atrium filled with plants and<br />
posters, as well as a more formal chamber consisting of<br />
antiques and gilt. This place is huge, and well worth poking<br />
around, and while the design suggests dollar signs it<br />
actually transpires to be a very good deal. Salads are a<br />
particular forte, though more voracious appetites should<br />
look to the king prawns. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (30-90zł).<br />
PTAUEBXSW<br />
Grand Kredens A-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 629 80 08, www.kredens.com.pl. Few<br />
places in <strong>Warsaw</strong> match this for a fine, dare we say<br />
splendid dining experience. The decor is tremendously,<br />
enjoyably eclectic, and the menu - with a terrific variety<br />
of fish (amongst much else) to savour - well up to the<br />
challenge of its rivals. It is not by any means the cheapest<br />
place in town, but we would be fairly certain that however<br />
big the bill, you will leave feeling well satisfied. This has<br />
been around <strong>Warsaw</strong> longer than we have and it’s a treat.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (30-100zł).<br />
PTA6UIEGSW<br />
GR Bistro & Restaurant B-3, ul. Szpitalna<br />
8 (entrance from ul. Górskiego), tel. (+48) 22<br />
828 42 85, www.grbistro.pl. A two-level bistro<br />
set on a quiet street just away from the hustle and<br />
bustle in the centre of the city. A small downstairs<br />
area connects to an intimate upstairs with black<br />
and white prints on walls tastefully decorated with<br />
striped wallpaper set above wooden picture rails.<br />
The menu is concise featuring an international<br />
selection of well-prepared and presented dishes<br />
including soups, salads, pastas and meat dishes.<br />
Good as a lunch stop, where the daily specials are<br />
well-worth the few euro prices, it is a particularly<br />
recommendable as a place for an intimate meal away<br />
from the crowds of Chmielna with the food matched<br />
by a good selection of wines and cocktails. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.<br />
(25-54zł). TA6GSW<br />
Kosmos Kosmos F-4, ul. Koszykowa 55, tel.<br />
(+48) 535 55 85 52, www.kosmoskosmos.pl. Do<br />
tots and tipples mix? They do at Kosmos Kosmos, and<br />
surprisingly well. This new bar/restaurant has an entire<br />
separate play space just for kidlets, and it’s not just<br />
colouring books and blocks either - think ladders, slides<br />
and kid-sized tables and chairs. This basement space<br />
doesn’t sacrifice on design just because it’s aiming<br />
at families, so parents can retain their cool cred while<br />
enjoying an array of well-made burgers, pastas and<br />
vegetarian dishes along with that long-overdue drink.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:30. (18-36zł).<br />
TA6EGSW<br />
NEW<br />
Meat Love B-4, ul. Hoża 62, tel. (+48) 500 14 92 10,<br />
www.meatlove.pl. The audacious name would suggest a<br />
barbarian bone-sucking, finger-licking orgy of dripping meat<br />
juice (to us, anyway), but the reality is a woodsy, intimate, ecominded<br />
sandwich shop that effectively reclaims hipsterdom<br />
from the vegans. Meat Love’s specialty is fresh rolls and<br />
baguettes stuffed with tender, organic, hormone-free carnivorous<br />
delicacies, and there’s a good selection of teas, coffee<br />
and other drinks to accompany them. One also can’t help but<br />
admire the simple genius of their Belgian waffle topped with<br />
pulled pork and maple syrup. The staff have all the hallmarks<br />
a hip urbanite should: tattoos and studs, scraggly beards and<br />
suave haircuts, but the atmosphere is family-friendly and completely<br />
sincere. A great addition to the neighbourhood, in fact<br />
it’s places like this that create the illusion pocket neighbourhoods<br />
even exist in the capital. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat<br />
10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (13-20zł). A6GSW<br />
Na Zielnej B-3, ul. Zielna 37, tel. (+48) 22 338 63 33,<br />
www.nazielnej.pl. You may remember this as KOM, an old<br />
favourite housed in <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s former telephone exchange.<br />
Re-branded and given a slight makeover, this has been immediately<br />
installed as one of our fave places in the city. There<br />
are in fact now three venues in one: a bistro, which is open for<br />
lunch; a restaurant (both offering the same menu of simple<br />
yet wonderfully cooked food); and a small shop where you<br />
can buy traditional Polish fixings like preserves and honey.<br />
Not cheap but terrifically good value, it is well worth a visit.<br />
Take a moment to check out the remnants of the exchange<br />
on your way to the lavatory. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed<br />
Sun. (48-76zł). PTAUXSW<br />
NEW<br />
Nolita ul. Wilcza 46, tel. (+48) 22 292 04 24, www.<br />
nolita.pl. You know you’ve hit on haute cuisine when the first<br />
thing you see on the menu is ‘scallops with celeriac and squid<br />
ink.’ Nolita is as upscale as they get, and yet the large, open,<br />
modern dining area could just as easily come off as casual if it<br />
weren’t for the excellent service from black-tie wait staff and the<br />
superior quality and presentation of the food. Ease back with<br />
your partner (be they for business or pleasure) and enjoy almost<br />
100zł entrees with wine before ordering from their homemade<br />
ice cream and sorbet selection. Then practise your poker face<br />
when the check arrives. Q Open 12:00 - 15:30, 18:00 - 22:30,<br />
Sat 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (25-109zł). PAW<br />
Piękna 56 F-4, ul. Piękna 56, tel. (+48) 22 412 06<br />
56, www.piekna56.pl. Neighbourhood restaurants don’t<br />
get more charming than Piękna 56, a sentiment you’ll agree<br />
with as soon as you spot the bricks with tiny plants growing<br />
out of them that dot each birch table. The twee-ness doesn’t<br />
stop there, but let the menu distract you; our cod coated in<br />
sunflower seeds and Mexican tortilla soup were lick-yourplate<br />
worthy, and the wine list is easily navigable thanks<br />
to the helpful wait staff. We’d gladly suffer through more<br />
bad dates if they all came with meals like this one. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.<br />
(20-60zł). TAUGSW<br />
Piękna Bistro F/G-4, ul. Piękna 20, tel. (+48) 22 627<br />
41 51, www.jazzzone.pl. Piękna Bistro went through a<br />
major overhaul and reopened this classier spot in the fall.<br />
The look is sleek, modern and simple now, but what hasn’t<br />
changed is their very reliable mix of pastas, salads, grilled<br />
meat and fish dishes, whose preparation and presentation<br />
will delight hungry diners. A recommended venue if<br />
you like your meal served to the backdrop of live jazz.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (29-69zł).<br />
PTAUIEGSW<br />
The new place on the map of <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
Evenings with live music<br />
The new taste of Bistro<br />
with a large pinch of jazz<br />
Bistro Piękna<br />
ul. Piękna 20<br />
00-549 Warszawa<br />
Tel. +48 22 627 41 51<br />
piekna@jazzone.pl<br />
www.jazzone.pl<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
44 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 45<br />
Podwale - Kompania Piwna B-1, ul. Podwale 25,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 635 63 14, www.podwale25.pl. Enter<br />
via a mock Bavarian courtyard to discover a huge hall<br />
filled with the sound of beery antics and oompah music.<br />
The word here is size, with <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s biggest portions<br />
coming within a whisker of sending tables keeling.<br />
This is basically meat, cabbage and potatoes served<br />
on huge wooden boards by waitresses obviously less<br />
fragile than they look. Certainly the best value in Old<br />
Town, with beer usually playing a big part in the evening.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (20-50zł).<br />
PTAUEGSW<br />
Restauracja Concept 13 C-4, ul. Bracka 9, tel. (+48)<br />
22 310 73 73, www.likushoteleirestauracje.pl. Tucked<br />
inside the high-end VITKAC shopping center, Restauracja<br />
Concept 13 lives up to its luxurious location with soaring fifth<br />
floor views of the city and stylish design. The modern urban<br />
eatery offers its best deals at lunch, where 50zł gets you<br />
multiple courses of their creative cuisine - trust us, its a deal.<br />
If the weather allows then there’s no place better than the<br />
terrace, even if its just for a cocktail. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.<br />
(45-100zł). PTA6UXSW<br />
Restauracja Kultura B-2, ul. Krakowskie<br />
Przedmieście 21/23, tel. (+48) 784 04 40 51, www.<br />
restauracjakultura.pl. On the ground floor of the Kino<br />
Kultura, and therefore commanding one of the greatest<br />
locations on all Krakowskie, the Kultura makes good use<br />
of the space by serving food that lives up to its surroundings.<br />
Smart waitresses wearing freshly starched aprons<br />
will bring a hot bowl of żurek soup to your table before<br />
presenting you with a bill that should, given quality, be far<br />
higher. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (32-59zł).<br />
PTAEGSW<br />
Restauracja Wilanów ul. S. K. Potockiego 27<br />
(Wilanów), tel. (+48) 22 842 18 52, www.restauracjawilanow.com.<br />
An extraordinary excursion back to the days<br />
of a planned Polish economy, this much talked about classy<br />
restaurant serves a range of international and Polish food in<br />
a blast to the past atmosphere. Despite what they say about<br />
the place there’s no ignoring the service. Breathtakingly<br />
snobby, expect to be treated like something the cat dragged<br />
in if you’re not dressed for the opera. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00.<br />
(32-58zł). PTAGS<br />
Restaurant @Ferdy’s A-3, ul. Grzybowska 24 (Radisson<br />
Blu Centrum Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 321 88 22, www.<br />
ferdys.pl. A class act found on the ground floor of the Radisson.<br />
Veneered woods, potted plants and huge shutters lend<br />
an atmosphere not dissimilar to the first class deck of a cross<br />
Atlantic liner, while the steaks are reputed to be some of the<br />
best in the city. Not a cheap indulgence, but a worthwhile<br />
one. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (36-164zł). PTAUGS<br />
Restro A-4, ul. Pańska 57, tel. (+48) 22 620 22 66,<br />
www.restro.pl. As you may have noticed some central<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> streets have a habit of ending abruptly before reappearing<br />
again sometimes hundreds of metres away on<br />
the other side of a busy road. Bear this in mind when you<br />
hunt down Restro, a cafe restaurant that is a favoured lunch<br />
spot of ours, which can be found to the south-east of the UN<br />
roundabout (Rondo ONZ). The changing menu features offers<br />
a choice of excellently priced set menus and dishes with a<br />
distinct Mediterranean feel. The tagliatelle with scampi and<br />
coriander is a steal at around 6 euros although we often have<br />
a dilemma between that and one of the salads, the beef and<br />
spinach being another winner. Recommended but mind the<br />
opening hours. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sun 13:00 - 18:00. (19-39zł). PTAUVGS<br />
SAM Restaurant & Bakery C-2, ul. Lipowa 7a,<br />
tel. (+48) 600 80 60 84, www.sam.info.pl. Fresh<br />
baked bread, plentiful salads, a shop with organic herbs<br />
and superfoods like acai...it’s safe to say that SAM has<br />
arrived in <strong>Warsaw</strong> with some strong credentials, and<br />
after our visit we can declare it the Charlotte of the student<br />
set. You’ll find the same lackadaisical service and<br />
hipster clientele as the popular Pl. Zbawiciela hotspot,<br />
and if you can overlook these flaws you’ll be delighted<br />
with healthy dishes that ensure you’ll forever be able to<br />
squeeze into those skinny jeans. QOpen 08:30 - 22:30,<br />
Tue 10:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 22:30. (15-40zł).<br />
TA6UGSW<br />
Skwer - filia Centrum Artystycznego Fabryka<br />
Trzciny B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 60a,<br />
tel. (+48) 508 36 58 49, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl.<br />
If location is everything then Skwer is the place to be.<br />
Commanding a prime spot on Krakowskie Przedmieście<br />
a stone’s throw from the presidential place it looks like an<br />
architect’s show-home yet manages to create a decent<br />
atmosphere thanks to the students who flock here for<br />
coffee after lectures. By night the crowd gets trendier as<br />
local arty-types turn up to be seen eating the well-priced<br />
food through the glass walls. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (18-<br />
45zł). PTAUEGSW<br />
Socjal C-3, ul. Foksal 18, tel. (+48) 601 31 89 66.<br />
Socjal comes with excellent pedigree - it’s the creation<br />
of the folks behind 12 Stolikow, which was named one<br />
of the top 5 restaurants in the city last year. Socjal is<br />
another win for this crew, boasting a rotating menu of<br />
Italian entrees and salads (prosciutto and melon for the<br />
win) that diners order via the restaurant’s chalkboard.<br />
The communal tables force diners to be “socjal” with<br />
their neighbours, an asset when you see a delicious plate<br />
and want to casually ask, “What’s that?” QOpen 10:00<br />
- 24:00, Wed, Thu 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00.<br />
(18-65zł). PAGBSW<br />
Solec 44 ul. Solec 44, tel. (+48) 798 36 39 96,<br />
www.solec.waw.pl. Solec 44 marries two of the best<br />
things around at one location: delicious food and the joy of<br />
beating the crap out of your friends at board games. Come<br />
for the grub - which is a delectable menu of fresh, local<br />
and seasonal options plus hearty sandwiches - but stay<br />
for the chance to crack into Settlers of Catan or Scrabble<br />
with a beer in hand. The space itself (which can be tough<br />
to find and is tucked behind a kebab shop) is sprawling<br />
and ideal for long evenings of dice rolling, especially when<br />
the sun cruelly sets at 16:00. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Mon<br />
16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (26-79zł).<br />
PTA6XSW<br />
NEW<br />
Sowa i Przyjaciele G-5, ul. Gagarina 2 (entrance from<br />
ul. Czerniakowska), tel. (+48) 22 840 70 71, www.<br />
sowaiprzyjaciele.pl. The pet project of well-known Polish<br />
master chef Robert Sowa, this outstanding restaurant raises<br />
the bar not only with its extensive range of tantalising dishes<br />
that sound so good you’ll want to eat the menu, but also with<br />
the level of hospitality. The ostensibly casual, modern interior is<br />
elevated to elite by elegant table settings and excellent service,<br />
and includes not one, but two VIP rooms, plus a plush cigar room<br />
that’s also stocked with Scottish single-malt whiskies. To give<br />
you a sense of the calibre of the cuisine here, our “Guinea hen<br />
with caramelised carrot and lavender puree, served with glazed<br />
vegetables and vanilla sauce” was not only worthy of an award,<br />
it was also the cheapest entree on the menu (a ridiculously<br />
reasonable 48zł). So delicious it’s almost embarrassing to eat<br />
in public, we worry what might happen when we try the venison.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (45-75zł). PTAUGSW<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
46 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 47<br />
Milk bars<br />
Bar Mleczny Familijny C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 39,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 826 45 79. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 09:00 - 17:00. (3-13zł). PUGS<br />
Leniwa Gospodyni F-4, ul. Nowowiejska 12/18,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 825 44 23, www.leniwagospodyni.pl.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
(10-25zł). AGS<br />
Mleczarnia Jerozolimska C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie<br />
32, tel. (+48) 602 38 17 34. This new milk bar has<br />
the décor to look modern, but all the classic staples of a<br />
traditional milk bar - bitchy staff, a dead bug in our drink,<br />
not enough tables - to feel like a Communist-era classic.<br />
Mleczarnia Jerozolimska is consistently busy, something<br />
we chalk up to location more than anything else. Our<br />
pierogis never materialized (anything not on hand behind<br />
the small counter is sent down via a food elevator) though<br />
the borscht and giant salad were both serviceable. Also<br />
at ul. Bagatela 15 (G-5). QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun<br />
11:00 - 19:00. (6-12zł). PUGS<br />
Wiking C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 28, tel. (+48) 22 828<br />
06 44, www.restauracjewiking.pl. A modern take on<br />
the often-dumpy milk bar, Wiking offers a spread of Polish<br />
staples in helpings bigger than your head. Simply point to<br />
the pile of meat or bursting veggie pancake you desire and<br />
the cheery maids will toss it in the oven for a warm-up before<br />
slapping it on an awaiting tray. The Nowy Świat location<br />
means Wiking does a brisk business even though the food<br />
skews towards the bland. QOpen 07:30 - 21:30, Sat 09:00<br />
- 21:30, Sun 10:00 - 20:30. (11-34zł). PTAGS<br />
STO900 H-3, ul. Solec 18/20, tel. (+48) 787 69<br />
62 41, www.1500m2.com. Any time a chef will hold<br />
up what he’s making - in this case wiggling a kluski<br />
kładzione, a type of doughy Polish dumpling without filling,<br />
in the air - to explain what you’re ordering then you<br />
can feel good about where you’re dining. STO900 has the<br />
appearance of a student clubhouse with mismatched furniture,<br />
a glass rack made of hangers and a bumping Bob<br />
Marley soundtrack, but the menu is surprisingly grown<br />
up. Options are limited to the few dishes the aforementioned<br />
chef is making that day (our choice was ribs, the<br />
dumplings or a carrot-lemon soup) but he clearly thrives<br />
when not dividing his focus. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri<br />
09:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.<br />
(15-50zł). TA6GSW<br />
NEW<br />
Żurawina Rest & Wine B-4, ul. Żurawia 32, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 521 06 66, www.zurawina.eu. Stylish and<br />
spacious, this upscale resto wine bar looks like it should<br />
be attached to a modern art museum and is about as<br />
fashionable as they come, while still maintaining a level<br />
of casual comfort that won’t put off those of us who don’t<br />
spend half our paychecks on our hair. Post-modernist<br />
paintings and slick plastic seating are off-set by elegant<br />
place settings, fresh flowers and gorgeously presented<br />
dishes. Choose from a large selection of bruschetta,<br />
sexy drinks and desserts, or dive into to-die-for dishes<br />
like ‘rib-eye steak with apple pastry, roasted potatoes<br />
and truffle butter’ (56zł). The place of choice for well-bred<br />
Varsovians on rich dates, business meetings and mixers,<br />
in the evening it’s a great cocktail and wine bar. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00. (30-50zł). PTA6GSW<br />
Italian<br />
NEW<br />
Aioli Cantine B-3, ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. (+48)<br />
22 290 10 20, www.aioli-cantine.com. Turning communist-era<br />
commercial space into an appealing dining<br />
destination is no easy illusion, but Aioli’s urban canteen<br />
aesthetic turns the trick with aplomb. Dominated by two<br />
large circular bars - one around the kitchen hung with<br />
colanders and racks of prosciutto, the other an actual<br />
drink bar ringed with wine glasses - wooden furnishings<br />
dressed with fresh herbs do much to dispel the brick<br />
and concrete, while excellent service further elevates<br />
the atmosphere. The short menu of salads, sandwiches<br />
(mango turkey burger, perhaps?), pasta and pizza, plus<br />
some great breakfasts, makes the most of each option<br />
by including tantalising ingredients (many of which<br />
you can take home with you in jars) and the prices are<br />
very reasonable. High quality all around, and therefore<br />
high marks from us. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. (20-40zł).<br />
PTAGSW<br />
Festa Italiana Ristorante B-4, ul. Hoża 27a,<br />
tel. (+48) 516 61 61 06, www.festaitaliana.eu.<br />
We know we shouldn’t fall for it, but Festa Italiana had<br />
us at “waitress wearing an Italian flag skirt.” Throw in<br />
a glossy menu that features three languages (Polish,<br />
English and Italian) and there’s no excuse for not having<br />
a large dollop of marinara somewhere on your clothes<br />
before the night is through. The pizzas taste wood-fired<br />
(though there’s no such oven in sight) and have a crisp<br />
Roman-style crust that makes it easy to eat an entire pie<br />
yourself. The creamy carbonara, highly recommended by<br />
our flag-draped waitress, proved to be just as worthy as<br />
the pizza. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.<br />
(22-60zł). PAGS<br />
Nu Jazz Zone C-4, ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22 621<br />
89 89, www.jazzone.pl. Slick, modern interiors with soaring<br />
pillars and cavernous ceilings lend this place fantastic acoustics,<br />
something you’ll notice the moment a live act appears.<br />
Long established on what could be considered <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s<br />
media street, the menu has been given a completely new<br />
look with Italian replacing the international mix of old. And<br />
once again the food hits the mark with our Gnocchi with pork<br />
both tasty and a good value. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 23:00. (40-65zł). PTAEGSW<br />
Roma G-5, ul. Belwederska 17 / ul. Grottgera 2, tel. (+48)<br />
22 841 01 33, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Attention to detail is<br />
apparent at Roma, and every aspect of this secretive restaurant<br />
hints at the neighbourhood locales you’d find in the side alleys of<br />
Italy. The interior is intimate, with silverware resting on cinnamon<br />
sticks and piles of crispy breadsticks on every table. The menu<br />
itself is encyclopaedic - - we’re talking three pages of pastas - -<br />
enabling Roma to build a loyal fan base across the years. We’re<br />
fans of the Neapolitan soup, especially on rainy days, and if you<br />
like strings of mozzarella dangling from your lips we’re fairly certain<br />
you will too. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun<br />
14:00 - 21:00. (25-63zł). PTAUGBSW<br />
Roma Bukieteria C-4, ul. Mokotowska 49a, tel. (+48)<br />
22 621 03 11, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Pasta might be<br />
the kind of thing you’re used to gorging on, but not here. Roma<br />
Bukieteria is all romantic atmosphere - - think candles, terracotta<br />
and heavy wood tables - - so bring your best manners<br />
and your latest date. The only place with a larger selection of<br />
pasta has to be Rome itself, so take your time when sorting<br />
through the massive menu. It may look like a small trattoria,<br />
but the wine list suggests seasoned pros who will ensure a<br />
charming date. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00,<br />
Sun 14:00 - 21:00. (25-63zł). PTAGSW<br />
Trattoria Rucola B-2, ul. Miodowa 1, tel. (+48) 888<br />
57 54 57, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Trattoria Rucola has<br />
taught us a simple truth: we’d surely eat more salads if<br />
they all came with smoky bacon. The smell of garlic wafting<br />
onto Krakowskie Przedmieście will undoubtedly lure you in,<br />
the strange leafy décor will encourage you to grab a table<br />
and the hefty menu of Italian staples will mean a certain<br />
belt-loosening. Thirty pizzas dominate the menu, but we<br />
were intrigued by the rare sighting of doughy calzones. The<br />
aforementioned salads are soaked in a lush balsamic dressing<br />
that no one should be ashamed to lick from their fingers<br />
(we did). Also at H-3, ul. Francuska 6 and C-4, ul. Krucza 6/14.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (20-55zł). PTAVGSW<br />
Japanese<br />
We could quite easily have a guide with only sushi restaurants<br />
such has been the explosion of them in recent years. This<br />
is a selection of the places we feel you ought to know about<br />
but you are likely to find somewhere serving sushi in every<br />
major mall these days.<br />
77 Sushi A-4, ul. Sienna 83, tel. (+48) 22 890 18 11,<br />
www.sushi77.com. The number 77 might well refer to the<br />
number of sushi stops in town - in fact, it says a lot about<br />
the city that it’s now easier to find sushi than it is a cabbage.<br />
You’re guaranteed the real deal in Sushi 77, where imaginative<br />
sets - try the California rolls, or even the hot sushi - come<br />
chopped and sliced inside an attractive interior. Some<br />
outlets offer local delivery. Also at (F-4), ul. Polna 48A, Open<br />
12:00-22:30, Al. KEN 49 (Ursynów), Open 12:00-22:30 and<br />
ul. Sławoja-Składkowskiego 4 (Ursus, CH Skorosze), Open<br />
11:00-21:30, Sun 11:00-20:30. QOpen 11:00 - 22:30.<br />
(29-49zł). PTAVGSW<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
48 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 49<br />
Festa Italiana<br />
Ristorante<br />
A place that<br />
will stimulate<br />
all the senses<br />
ul. Hoża 27a, Warszawa<br />
Tel/Fax. 516 616 106<br />
festaitaliana@festaitaliana.eu<br />
www.festaitaliana.eu<br />
festaitalianaristorante<br />
Besuto C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. (+48) 22 828 00 20,<br />
www.besuto.pl. Besuto has moved from among the prefab<br />
cabins and ramshackle pavilions inside Nowy Świat 22 to a<br />
more visible location just down the street at 27. The good news<br />
is the sushi, which has historically been very decent hot and<br />
cold cuts prepared in front of your eyes, is still reliably delicious,<br />
and the new storefront is significantly less likely to make your<br />
date question your commitment - - the interior also gets marks<br />
for being bright and modern. The bad news is that a better<br />
location means higher prices than Besuto loyalists might be<br />
used to, but it’s worth it to dig a little deeper. QOpen 12:00 -<br />
23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (33-59zł). PTA6VGSW<br />
<strong>In</strong>aba B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. (+48) 22 622 59<br />
55, www.inaba.pl. Here’s a restaurant that was around years<br />
before sushi became a fashion statement. Japanese owned and<br />
run everything about <strong>In</strong>aba strives for authenticity, and this is one<br />
of only three places in town that can claim a Japanese master<br />
chef calling the shots in the kitchen. A pleasantly panelled interior<br />
creates a great atmosphere and those who want more than just<br />
raw fish should take a look at the grill dishes (be sure to try the<br />
duck). QOpen 11:30 - 22:00. (25-58zł). PTAGSW<br />
Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery B-2, ul. Senatorska<br />
17/19, tel. (+48) 22 892 09 01, www.kiku.pl. Our advice<br />
when coming to this typically Japan-in-a-packet decorated<br />
place is simple: forget the sushi and just ask for the noodle<br />
menu. Never before in this city have we eaten such fresh,<br />
spicy and downright tasty noodles as we have at Kiku. At<br />
around 25zł a bowl, a portion of noodles here - and the<br />
seafood ones are best - represents terrific value. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 23:00. (25-120zł). PTAUVGSW<br />
Kintaro Sushi B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 38, tel. (+48) 22<br />
881 78 51. This location on Nowogrodzka is like a black hole<br />
for restaurants, with previous tenants including French and<br />
Asian ventures. Now it has moved on to a Korean/sushi amalgamation<br />
that leaves us less than optimistic that the space<br />
won’t once again be changing hands. The Korean grill option,<br />
while unique, requires an advanced order - so don’t roll up with<br />
a craving - and the sushi is average even by <strong>Warsaw</strong> standards.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (22-50zł). PAUGSW<br />
OTO!SUSHI F-3, ul. Nowy Świat 46, tel. (+48) 22 828<br />
00 88, www.oto-sushi.pl. One of our favorite sushi spots in<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>. Sure, the location helps - who can argue with sitting<br />
outside on swanky Nowy Świat? - but the helpful staff, great<br />
tea options and fair prices put it squarely on top. A vegetarian<br />
sushi set for two with 22 pieces ranging from kappa maki to<br />
inari was tops, and the tempura is crispy rather the soggy we<br />
often encounter. Ducking in for a lunch special will get you<br />
heaps of fresh sushi along with miso soup, a salad and green<br />
tea for a reasonable price. The small storefront means you<br />
may have to fight for a seat, though. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (20-60zł). PTAVGSW<br />
Tomo Sushi C-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 22 434<br />
23 44, www.tomo.pl. Many claim you won’t find better sushi<br />
in <strong>Warsaw</strong>, and who are we to argue with the masses. Tomo’s<br />
reputation is well earned, and as such don’t be surprised to<br />
be knocking elbows with sushi snobs showing off deft chopstick<br />
moves. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (45-95zł). PTA6UGSW<br />
Kosher<br />
Rambam Kosher Cafe & Restaurant A-3, ul. Grzybowska<br />
4, tel. (+48) 22 243 26 93, www.rambamrestaurant.pl.<br />
Make no mistake about it, Rambam is certified<br />
kosher; in fact, they post their Glatt Kasher - Kasher Me-<br />
hadrin min HaMehadrin certificate (courtesy of Rabbi Yossef<br />
Karasik) right on the door. <strong>In</strong>side you’ll find a menu that skews<br />
Middle Eastern, with flavourful dishes like grilled eggplant and<br />
tahini offered as a starter and mains like spicy beef tajjiin with<br />
couscous. The only drawback to Rambam, which has some<br />
of the most attentive waiters we’ve encountered, is that your<br />
tasty plates can’t be accompanied by alcoholic beverages<br />
as they have yet to land a liquor license. Note that Rambam<br />
opens on Saturdays after sunset. QOpen 15:00 - 23:00.<br />
Closed Fri, Sat. (39-79zł). PTAUGSW<br />
Lebanese<br />
Le Cedre 84 A-3, Al. Solidarności 84, tel. (+48) 22<br />
618 89 99, www.lecedre.pl. This popular Middle Eastern<br />
staple hops across the river to a more accessible location<br />
at the intersection of Jana Pawła and al. Solidarności and<br />
thankfully brings all their reliably exotic flavours along too.<br />
The interior is a magenta masterpiece and sets the scene<br />
for you and your Scheherazade to explore the hefty menu.<br />
Our recommendation: though we’re fans of the entrees like<br />
shawarma your best bet is to mix and match hot and cold<br />
starters, of which there’s a dazzling array (stuffed grape<br />
leaves and grilled halloumi top our list). QOpen 11:00 -<br />
23:00. (32-59zł). PTAVGSW<br />
Mediterranean<br />
Olive Garden A-3, ul. Pereca 2, tel. (+48) 22 624 01 91,<br />
www.restauracjaolivegarden.com. No need to squirm, this<br />
isn’t the bland Olive Garden chain you’re familiar with. Rather,<br />
this Olive Garden brings a decidedly exotic brand of dishes<br />
to <strong>Warsaw</strong> in the form of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern<br />
cuisine like homemade pita bread and sweet kunafeh. For 20zl<br />
you can nab a lunch special of an appetiser (we suggest the<br />
house-made hummus), entree and dessert, all delivered in<br />
lightning speed to the hungry be-suited crowds. The available<br />
summer garden and sheesha pipes means Olive Garden is<br />
also a promising post-work spot to unwind. Q Open 10:00<br />
- 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed December<br />
24 - January 2. (20-50zł). PTAXSW<br />
Paros B-3, ul. Jasna 14/16A, tel. (+48) 22 828 10 67,<br />
www.paros-restauracja.pl. Paros is the first and last place in<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> where a waiter pulled out our chair and helped us with<br />
our coat - - colour us charmed by the gallantry. That attention<br />
carried over to the meal, with Greek staples like hefty salads<br />
and bite-sized spanakopitas as well as hybrid Greek burgers for<br />
the carnivores, all imparting the taste of the Mediterranean. The<br />
restaurant itself is so large it can be half filled with customers and<br />
still seem spacious, even with a packed white wraparound bar in<br />
the middle of the room. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -<br />
24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (28-56zł). PTAUEGSW<br />
Middle Eastern<br />
NEW<br />
Siriana ul. Smolna 14. Opening from December 5th -<br />
within that short window between the time the guide goes to<br />
the printing house and the time it gets into your hands - we<br />
won’t have a chance to properly review this promising new<br />
Middle-Eastern establishment until next issue, but we’ve<br />
already heard plenty to recommend it. With a chef straight<br />
from Damascus, Siriana promises authentic Arabic cuisine<br />
prepared according to traditional techniques, and in lieu of<br />
‘kebabs’ offers a wide selection of hummus, dry tartare, lamb<br />
dishes and unique desserts. Before we give the final word, feel<br />
free to let us (and thousands of others) know what you think<br />
by leaving your own comments and reviews of Siriana on our<br />
website. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (25-55zł). PTAGW<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
50 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 51<br />
Mongolian<br />
Cesarski Pałac (Tsinghis Chan) B-2, ul. Senatorska<br />
27, tel. (+48) 22 827 97 07, www.cesarski-palac.com.<br />
pl. A basement grill where diners line up at food stations, pile<br />
ingredients into a bowl before handing it over for a Mongolian<br />
chef to cook - either in a wok or on a Hibachi grill. There’s<br />
plenty to choose from, and in the best traditions of East Asian<br />
cooking the cuts of meat are lean, mean with not a slither of<br />
fat to be seen. Perhaps that’s why it’s rare to spot a Polish<br />
diner. Fifty five zloty gets you all you can eat, which sounds<br />
a pretty fair deal to us. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:30 -<br />
23:00, Sun 12:30 - 22:00. (55-65zł). PTAGBSW<br />
Polish<br />
There are basically three ways you can experience the Polish<br />
dining experience. The cheapest is at one of the surprisingly<br />
large number of surviving communist era Milk Bars, which<br />
you can read about elsewhere. Then there are the chains of<br />
‘country cottage’ style places which turn out Polish staples<br />
of rye soup, stuffed dumplings and heaps of meat and veg<br />
in gut-busting portions. The third form is still a relatively new<br />
one and involves a growing number of young, world-class<br />
chefs using their talents to bring Polish cuisine into the 21st<br />
century. We can happily recommend all three forms depending<br />
on the occasion. Take a look at the places listed here to<br />
give you an idea of which is which.<br />
99 Restaurant & Bar A-3, Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 620 19 99, www.restaurant99.com. A fixture<br />
on the <strong>Warsaw</strong> dining scene for over ten years and still going<br />
strong in the local corporate lunch trade. An updated design<br />
which is space age white and rather dashing compliments<br />
a highly-recommended, global menu which includes what’s<br />
possibly the best steak in <strong>Warsaw</strong>. Located within a stone’s<br />
throw of some of the city’s finest hotels, this is one of the<br />
most reliable places in town from breakfast through to supper<br />
whether you’re socialising, doing business or a bit of both.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00,<br />
Sun 15:00 - 22:00. (39-99zł). PTAUXSW<br />
Atelier Amaro G-4, ul. Agrykola 1, tel. (+48) 22 628<br />
57 47, www.atelieramaro.pl. It’s not hyperbole to call<br />
Atelier Amaro one of Poland’s most modern restaurants,<br />
with famed chef Wojciech Modest Amaro describing the<br />
cuisine as “where nature meets science.” That ‘science’ is<br />
molecular gastronomy, which means almost nothing is as it<br />
seems: an amuse-bouche arrives on the table with a flourish<br />
of dry ice fog, revealing caviar atop a surprisingly citrusy<br />
foam. Meals can be 3, 5 or 8 “moments” (what us regular<br />
folks call courses) and employ traditional Polish plants like<br />
nettles and beetroot in unexpected, highly creative dishes -<br />
like juniper ice cream hugging a miniature chocolate cake with<br />
chestnuts (with dishes changing almost daily, your menu will<br />
undoubtedly be different). Count us as impressed that Amaro<br />
himself can be seen serving many of the dishes in this intimate<br />
restaurant just inside Łazienki Park. An absolute must<br />
for diehard foodies. Q Open 12:00 - 14:30, 18:00 - 22:30,<br />
Sat 15:00 - 22:30, Mon 18:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. Closed<br />
December 22 - January 3. (145-280zł). PTAUGW<br />
Bistro Warszawa B-2, ul. Jezuicka 1/3, tel. (+48) 22<br />
635 37 69, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Proof that not every<br />
restaurant on the Old Town square has to be a kitschy Polish<br />
throwback comes in the form of stylish Bistro Warszawa,<br />
where soothing whites and greys - - and not a knick-knack<br />
in site - - offer a modern oasis in the heart of the city. The<br />
menu is similarly forward-thinking, with “pre-war Polish<br />
cuisine” with marinated herring in truffle oil and a crisp pear<br />
and walnut salad. And while the atmosphere (and the regular<br />
jazz performances) suggest an upscale experience, don’t<br />
be afraid to order the more pedestrian Bistro burger, which<br />
comes complete with a paper cone of french fries. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 23:00. (27-45zł). PTA6EGSW<br />
Chłopskie Jadło F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 1 (entrance<br />
from ul. Waryńskiego), tel. (+48) 22 339 17 17, www.<br />
chlopskiejadlo.pl. If you’ve been dying to try Poland’s traditional<br />
lard spread called smalec then this is your place. A<br />
nationwide chain devoted to serving rustic Polish food from<br />
the countryside, Chłopskie Jadło dishes up heaping portions<br />
of meat and pierogis on wooden slabs, with a dish of smalec<br />
and wedges of bread complimentary. The décor is country<br />
farm kitsch, with strings of hams and ancient machinery<br />
dangling from the walls. Slide onto a wooden bench (avoiding<br />
the decorative rusty saw) and start with local soups served<br />
inside a loaf of bread before loosening the belt and working<br />
through homemade dumplings and shanks of meat served<br />
by staff that appears as if they’ve just finished milking cows.<br />
A winning intro to Polish food. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 22:00. (18-65zł). PTA6UGS<br />
Delicja Polska F-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście<br />
45, tel. (+48) 22 826 47 70, www.delicjapolska.pl.<br />
One of the top eats around, set to a swish country manor<br />
background of chintz, flowers and candles. Enjoy duck with<br />
apple pancakes while aproned staff cater to your whim and<br />
fancy in what is set to be one of the premier dining experiences<br />
on the royal route. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (28-79zł).<br />
PTAGSW<br />
Dom Polski H-3, ul. Francuska 11, tel. (+48) 22 616<br />
24 32, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Much ink has<br />
been spilt over the virtues of Dom Polski, some of it in these<br />
pages, but there is no getting away from the fact that this<br />
is a good restaurant. Found in a discreet villa on <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s<br />
millionaires’ row you can expect Rolls Royce service from<br />
the minute you walk in. The food is equally good, chosen<br />
from a menu which is mercifully short, with just a couple of<br />
starters and several main courses to choose from; how it<br />
should be, in other words. We went for the żurek followed by<br />
the potato pancakes with smoked salmon and red caviar,<br />
and couldn’t fault a thing. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-118zł).<br />
PTAUGSW<br />
Folk Gospoda E-2, ul. Waliców 13, tel. (+48) 22<br />
890 16 05, www.folkgospoda.pl. Far from promising<br />
on the outside, Folk Gospoda unravels on entry as a glorious<br />
slice of traditional Poland. It’s inside a rugged interior<br />
of stout furnishings and ceramic pots you’ll find boys and<br />
girls in peasant attire rushing around carrying plates of<br />
fortifying Polish food (think heaps of duck). <strong>In</strong>deed, the<br />
Polish highlands meet the city inside Gospoda, and that’s<br />
never more so than when the band strikes up to hoot and<br />
holler over the sound of busy diners. Be sure to check out<br />
the wild Polish trout, an eco-friendly dish that will have your<br />
shirt buttons pinging off in no time. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
(22-66zł). PTAUIGSW<br />
Halka restauracja po polsku E-3, ul. Pańska 85, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 652 81 02, www.restauracjahalka.pl. Named<br />
after one of Poland’s best loved operas Halka takes its name<br />
seriously; interiors here have been painstakingly designed to<br />
mimic a 19th century country manor, a clear nod to Stanisław<br />
Moniuszko’s popular script. Dripping with elegance and lordly<br />
touches this is upmarket Polish food at its best. And despite<br />
what the well-done interior might suggest, they even have<br />
a children’s corner. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 -<br />
22:00. (21-59zł). PTA6EGSW<br />
Tipping Tribulations<br />
Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for<br />
foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal<br />
to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money,<br />
you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the<br />
word ‘dziękuje’ (thank you), or even ‘thank you’ in<br />
English, is an indication that you won’t be wanting<br />
any change back. This cultural slip-up can get very<br />
embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress<br />
then typically does their best to play the fool and make<br />
you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or<br />
conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your<br />
change, no matter what the cost of the meal and size<br />
of the note it was paid with. We suggest that you only<br />
say ‘thank you’ if you are happy for the waitstaff to<br />
keep all of the change. Otherwise we advise you to<br />
only use the word ‘proszę’ when handing back the bill<br />
and the payment.<br />
Despite the fact that the average waitress in PL only<br />
makes a paltry 10-15zł/hr, a customary tip is still<br />
only around 10% of the meal’s total (though being<br />
a foreigner may make staff expectant of a bit more<br />
generosity). As such, we encourage you to reward<br />
good service when you feel it’s deserved. Finally,<br />
it is not common to add the tip to your credit card<br />
payment because waitstaff are forced to then pay<br />
tax on the gratuity; most likely you will not even be<br />
able to leave a tip on your card. Have some change<br />
handy so you can still leave a cash tip, or ask your<br />
server for change.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
52 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 53<br />
Polish Food<br />
Those wanting to take a quick foxtrot through the world<br />
of the Polish kitchen should consider putting the following<br />
to the test:<br />
Smalec: Fried lard, often served complimentary before<br />
a meal with hunks of homemade bread. It sounds evil,<br />
but it works like a miracle any day, especially an arctic<br />
one. Ideally partnered with a mug of local beer. Any Polish<br />
restaurant worth its salt should give you lashings of this<br />
prior to your meal. You only need ask.<br />
Soup: Keep your eyes peeled for Poland’s two signature<br />
soups; żurek (sour rye soup with sausages and potatoes<br />
floating in it) and barszcz (beetroot, occasionally with dumplings<br />
thrown in). Table manners go out of the window when<br />
eating these two, so feel free to dunk bread rolls in them.<br />
Bigos: You’ll either love it or vomit. Bigos, a.k.a hunters<br />
stew, is made using meat, cabbage, onion and sauerkraut<br />
before being left to simmer for a few days. If you have<br />
second helpings then consider yourself a Pole by default.<br />
Gołąbki: Boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion<br />
and rice before being baked in a tomato sauce. Urban<br />
myth claims Poland’s King Kazimierz fed his army gołąbki<br />
before his victory outside Malbork in a battle against the<br />
Teutonic Order. The unlikely victory was attributed to the<br />
hearty meal his troops had enjoyed before hand.<br />
Kiełbasa: Sausages, and in Poland you’ll find several varieties<br />
made primarily with pork, but sometimes using turkey,<br />
horse, lamb and even bison. Few varieties to watch for including<br />
Krakowska, a Kraków specialty which uses pepper and<br />
garlic, kabanosy which is a thin, dry sausage flavoured with<br />
carraway seed and wiejska; a monster-looking u-shaped<br />
sausage. Kiełbasa was also the nickname of one of Poland’s<br />
most notorious gangland figures of the 90s.<br />
Pierogi: <strong>Pocket</strong>s of dough traditionally filled with meat,<br />
cabbage or cheese, though you will also occasionally<br />
find maverick fillings such as chocolate or strawberries.<br />
Placki: Nothing more than potato pancakes, often paired<br />
with lashings of sour cream. Again, all your traditional<br />
folksy Polish restaurants will have these on the menu, if<br />
not you have every right to raise a few questions in the<br />
direction of the kitchen.<br />
Zapiekanki: Also known as Polish pizza. Take a stale<br />
baguette, pour melted cheese on it and then cover it<br />
with mushrooms and ketchup from a squeezy bottle.<br />
Best eaten when absolutely plastered. Where to buy it:<br />
various fast food cabins dotted around the city centre.<br />
Dessert: Few things in life get a Pole more animated than<br />
a good dessert. Sernik (a kind of cheesecake) being a<br />
must if you want to even attempt to convince a Pole you<br />
have visited their country.<br />
Kaszanka: This is the Polish variation of blood sausage,<br />
in this case pig’s blood mixed with groats, and is generally<br />
served fried with onions. Unlike in other countries it is not<br />
served in the form of a sausage. A variation on the blood dish<br />
is Czernina, a soup made of duck’s blood mixed with poultry<br />
broth. An interesting tale is attached to this dish as it was the<br />
dish served by the parents of young women to her suitors<br />
as a sign that their proposal of marriage was not accepted.<br />
Literatka B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 87/89<br />
(second entrance - ul. Senatorska 3), tel. (+48) 22 827<br />
30 54, www.literatka.com.pl. Located in the shadow of<br />
Zygmunt’s column on the <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s poshest street, Literatka<br />
is a traditional Polish restaurant with a cosy feel and an<br />
impressive range of Polski and international dishes. Pierogi,<br />
pork and duck all make an appearance as well as a more<br />
than acceptable sirloin steak before finishing with what the<br />
menu describes as apples in a bathrobe with strawberry<br />
mousse. It’s not bad at all and a suitable way to finish a day<br />
ploughing the tourist trail in the adjacent old town. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 24:00. (30-70zł). PTA6IXSW<br />
Masz Gulasz F-4, ul. Piękna 15, tel. (+48) 22 370 25<br />
50. We thought it was a risk of celebrity chef Magda Gessler<br />
to open a new restaurant so close to her most recent venture,<br />
the wonderful and innovative Słony. And while diners have<br />
yet to embrace this homey spot specialising in piping hot<br />
goulashes like they have Słony, Gessler doesn’t disappoint<br />
with her take on this popular Polish specialty. Traditional<br />
options like pork and sauerkraut pack a filling punch, while<br />
the chicken, dried tomato and spinach version actually<br />
makes the dish feel surprisingly light - - not something you’d<br />
normally say about a stew. Though the interior feels a little<br />
trite (jars of grains and pickled sundries as decor has been<br />
done to death) it thankfully doesn’t impede ingestion. Here’s<br />
hoping some of Słony’s luck rubs off on Masz Gulasz. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 22:00. (10-42zł). PTAUGSW<br />
Oberża Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem (Under the Red<br />
Hog) E-2, ul. Żelazna 68, tel. (+48) 22 850 31 44, www.<br />
czerwonywieprz.pl. The story here’s a good ‘un. <strong>In</strong> 2006<br />
workers uncovered a secret underground eatery frequented<br />
by all the communist bad boys you’d ever think of; Mao, Lenin,<br />
Castro and Brezhnev to name a few. Unearthed were a stack of<br />
medals, manuscripts, menus and uniforms. This being capitalist<br />
Poland a plan was hatched to make a mint from resurrecting<br />
the restaurant and opening it to all. That’s the story anyhow. It’s<br />
actually claptrap, designed to fool tourists and the occasional<br />
half-witted magazine. Still, this place forms an intrinsic part of<br />
any commie inspired tour you may be doing of <strong>Warsaw</strong>, and a<br />
jolly good place to dine on Tito Boar, pig’s trotters in aspic and<br />
Polish-style duck. <strong>In</strong> the background lots of sashes, portraits<br />
and pretty young girls dressed for a May Day parade. Saturday<br />
and Sunday find child minders available to entertain your tots.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (26-58zł). PTAUGSW<br />
Pierrogeria B-1, ul. Krzywe Koło 30, tel. (+48) 604 17<br />
90 02, www.pierrogeria.pl. If too many more top notch,<br />
great value places like this open in Old Town, the area is in<br />
serious danger of losing its tourist trap moniker. This divine<br />
little pierogi stop keeps it simple, keeps it cheap and does<br />
so in a gorgeous setting. The tables all get individual lamps,<br />
and if you can bag one by the window at lunchtime then you<br />
should settle in for a very long afternoon. Also at (F-4) Pl. Konstytucji<br />
2. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (20-26zł). TAGSW<br />
Polka, Magda Gessler po prostu B-2, ul. Świętojańska<br />
2, tel. (+48) 22 635 35 35, www.restauracjapolka.pl. No<br />
other restaurateur dominates the <strong>Warsaw</strong> scene like Magda<br />
Gessler, and Polka is one of her Polish offerings to <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s<br />
growing band of gastronauts. Like her other ventures Polka has<br />
a fairytale design that makes use of floral prints and country<br />
clutter, and the interiors here are a fancy muddle of frou frou<br />
chambers. But it’s with good food that the name Gessler is<br />
most commonly associated with, and here there’s plenty of<br />
that to choose from. Find your usual assortment of Polish<br />
delicacies, made using the finest locally sourced produce. <strong>In</strong><br />
added boon the prices are kind on the eye as well. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 23:00. (24-68zł). PTAG<br />
Radio Café B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. (+48) 22<br />
625 27 84, www.radiocafe.pl. Penetrate the curtains<br />
to enter a legend, a venue with shady connections to the<br />
underground broadcasts of Radio Free Europe. Attesting<br />
to this past are photos, cuttings and sketches, as well<br />
as an ageing clientele all too familiar with the bad old<br />
days. You wouldn’t define this venue as progressive, yet<br />
it’s an immensely enjoyable way to glimpse pre-sushi<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> and enjoy lively chat in an almost historic atmosphere.<br />
The foods good as well, with central European<br />
standards that do far more than just keep the cold at<br />
bay. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.<br />
(20-48zł). TAGS<br />
Restauracja Różana G-5, ul. Chocimska 7, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 848 12 25, www.restauracjarozana.<br />
com.pl. A two floor pre-war villa full of chichi touches,<br />
flowers and crockery. Very pretty, but you’ll soon learn<br />
they attract return custom on account of the cooking,<br />
not the interiors. The setting might look high end but<br />
the prices are certainly not, and you’ll find Różana<br />
recognized across the city as one of the best dinner<br />
deals around. The veal liver with onions and cherry<br />
sauce is divine. Plenty claim to open till the last customer<br />
but only these guys are the real deal - if there’s<br />
people dining then the kitchen will stay open, and that<br />
doesn’t matter if it’s midnight or daybreak. Give a quick<br />
call ahead to check. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (30-70zł).<br />
PTAIEXSW<br />
Słony G-4, ul. Piękna 11 (entrance from ul. Krucza),<br />
tel. (+48) 22 629 03 64, www.slony.pl. Magda Gessler<br />
strikes again, but not with the usual overdecorated sitdown<br />
restaurant we’ve come to expect; this time the<br />
celebrity restaurateur has created a grown-up snack bar<br />
that’s a complete knockout. A glass case in the middle<br />
of the restaurant houses a variety of canapés to choose<br />
from - wouldn’t the French die to see smalec and pickles<br />
on a canapé? - and the menu is populated with small<br />
meaty dishes primarily in the 4-12zł range (can we call<br />
it Polish tapas?). The simple homemade white sausage<br />
with onion jam is on our city-wide best-of list, and with<br />
one entire wall utilised for wine storage you can sip and<br />
snack your way to pure bliss. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri<br />
09:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.<br />
(12-39zł). PA6GSW<br />
Strauss Restaurant B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 45<br />
(Polonia Palace Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 318 28 34,<br />
www.strauss.pl. A classy restaurant serving Polish/<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational cuisine inside the elegant confines of the<br />
Polonia Palace. Check their Friday night deal where<br />
105zł buys a Polish buffet accompanied by live music.<br />
Q Open 06:30 - 10:00, 11:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30,<br />
Sat, Sun 06:30 - 10:30, 18:00 - 22:30. (36-120zł).<br />
PTAUGW<br />
U Barssa B-1, Rynek Starego Miasta 14, tel. (+48)<br />
22 635 24 76, www.ubarssa.pl. Old Town is packed<br />
with standard places to eat, but has traditionally been<br />
something of a desert when it comes to great places to eat.<br />
Times are a-changing. As you walk into the elegant dining<br />
room you will discover a world of luxury, craft and privilege<br />
(oh yes, best save up before coming). Veal escalopes with<br />
dill sauce and the signature duck a la Barssa (baked with<br />
apples and served with cranberries and plum sauce and<br />
accompanied by baked potatoes and beet konfiture) are<br />
just a few of the treats you can expect, and we have yet<br />
to mention the wine list. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (25-90zł).<br />
TAEGSW<br />
Restaurant Literatka<br />
is pleased to invite you for delicious<br />
dishes of traditional Polish and<br />
international cuisine.<br />
ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 87/89, <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
Tel. +48 22 497 57 72<br />
Tel./fax. +48 22 827 30 54<br />
e-mail: biuro@literatka.com.pl<br />
www.literatka.com.pl<br />
Smoking<br />
After holding out to be one of the few remaining EU countries<br />
with no prohibitions on smoking, a new law put into<br />
effect on <strong>November</strong> 15th, 2010 finally limited smoking<br />
in public places. Smoking is now completely banned in<br />
Poland on public transport, transport stops and stations,<br />
schools and universities, workplaces, sports arenas and<br />
other places where the public gather. Owners are obliged<br />
to place a clear and visible ‘No Smoking’ sign and anyone<br />
caught smoking by either the police or local city guards<br />
(Straż Miejska) is supposedly subject to a 500zł fine.<br />
However, in the case of bars, clubs, restaurants and<br />
other public places, the law states that there can be<br />
a separate room for smokers as long as it is properly<br />
ventilated and closed off from the other public areas. <strong>In</strong><br />
response to the controversial legislation, many owners<br />
have exercised their right to create a small smoking<br />
room, however others have made the majority of their<br />
establishment smoker-friendly with only a small area set<br />
aside for non-smokers. Due to a lack of enforcement,<br />
some establishments openly flout the law by allowing<br />
smoking wherever they want. As such, while smoking<br />
in public places in Poland has been greatly reduced, it<br />
still continues in many places. To help you find or avoid<br />
places which continue to allow smoking on the premises<br />
we have used the following symbols throughout the guide:<br />
G This place has a complete smoking ban on the<br />
premises<br />
X This place has a smoking section on the premises<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
54 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 55<br />
A new kind of loo<br />
Plenty of upgrades and<br />
new additions have come<br />
to <strong>Warsaw</strong> in courtesy<br />
of the recent Euro 2012<br />
tournament – check out<br />
that shiny new stadium<br />
across the river – but one<br />
of the most interesting<br />
improvements can be<br />
found at <strong>Warsaw</strong> Central<br />
Station. The station’s<br />
reliably skuzzy communistera<br />
bathrooms have been<br />
stunningly replaced with<br />
modern toilets and urinals that inexplicably offer walls<br />
with images like wrinkly puppies or the White House for<br />
the men, and shelves of books or sun-soaked terraces<br />
for women. There is also an in-bathroom shop filled with<br />
drinks and snacks in case you’ve worked up an appetite<br />
in the stall. Dutch company 2theloo created the new<br />
restrooms as part of the 48 million zloty overhaul the<br />
station is currently undergoing, but fortunately it will<br />
only cost you 2zł for the pleasure to use them. There are<br />
large “2theloo” signs directing you to the three locations,<br />
or you can head to Pasaz Polnocny on level -1, with the<br />
entrance from Złote Tarasy for the 24 hour location.<br />
Another location, which is open from 06:00-22:00, is on<br />
level 0 with the entrance on the side the Marriott Hotel is<br />
located (access from outside the station). The last option<br />
is in the hallway in the lower level of the station that leads<br />
to the northern end of the tram tracks.<br />
The <strong>In</strong>comes House<br />
If ever there was a sign of how far Poland has come then<br />
Plac Trzech Krzyży is it - lined up like diamond ducks are<br />
top bracket boutiques, a five star hotel, and a phalanx<br />
of Jeeps parked outside designer bars. This corner of<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> has it all, and standing at the top of it is Dom<br />
Dochodowy (the <strong>In</strong>comes House), a glittering example<br />
of when old meets new. Essentially a triangular faced<br />
townhouse, the original Dom Dochodowy is thought to<br />
have been constructed back in the 18th century, before<br />
being improved on by Antoni Luciński - the supervisor of<br />
King Poniatowski’s private cellar. Essentially comprised<br />
of three separate houses (one facing Ujazdowskie,<br />
another Mokotowska, and the final one staring down<br />
Trzech Krzyży), the properties served countless uses<br />
over the years, including that of distillery, playing card<br />
factory and private laboratory for one budding Harry<br />
Potter. The building survived the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Uprising, but<br />
not in particularly good shape, and for the following<br />
decades was allowed to rot slowly away. Finally, at<br />
the start of this century, work was undertaken by the<br />
Platan Group to restore the structure. The results are<br />
fantastic - decorative plaster mouldings, polychromes<br />
and historic decorations all saw the master touch, while<br />
other details to look for include a floor mosaic making<br />
use of four types of wood, iron balustrades and periodstyle<br />
lampposts. Check the finer details for yourself by<br />
spending in the Zegna and Burberry boutique inside,<br />
the Ale Gloria restaurant in the cellar, or the stretch of<br />
cafes/bars/restaurants to the side. Look for it on pl.<br />
Trzech Krzyży 3.<br />
U Fukiera B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, tel. (+48) 22<br />
831 10 13, www.ufukiera.pl. The most famous restaurant<br />
in town with a guestbook that speaks for itself; Naomi<br />
Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Ferguson are a few of<br />
the names who’ve taken a seat here. The interior is a work<br />
of art, crowded with paintings and antiques, it’s hard not to<br />
feel a part of history when dining here. The food is the perfect<br />
indulgence with perfectly presented game dishes. <strong>Your</strong> bill is<br />
a different matter, and may present a double Dutch situation.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (41-105zł). PTJAGSW<br />
U Kucharzy B-2, ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. (+48) 22 826<br />
79 36, www.gessler.pl. Cooking becomes theatre inside U<br />
Kucharzy, a restaurant where chefs toil next to diners inside<br />
what once served as the kitchen of the Europejski Hotel.<br />
Black and white tiles, hams hanging from ceilings and floridfaced<br />
chefs cursing over the din; eating here is like being<br />
on the set of Ramsey’s Kitchen Nightmares. The food is no<br />
nightmare, however, rather a collection of top priced game<br />
dishes and other posh alternatives. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
(39-79zł). TAEGS<br />
Zapiecek C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. (+48) 22 826 74<br />
84, www.zapiecek.eu. Packed through all hours this pierogi<br />
kitchen assumes the ‘Grandmother’s country cottage’ look,<br />
with pots and pans hanging from every shelf, and lots of hard<br />
timber touches. Much talked about, their deliciously light dough<br />
pockets come with all the fillings you can imagine. If you don’t<br />
fancy a sit down then check their street-level take away window<br />
for lunch-on-the-run. Also at Al. Jerozolimskie 28 (C-4). QOpen<br />
11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (19-36zł). PTAGS<br />
Russian<br />
Babooshka C-3, ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 102, tel. (+48) 22<br />
406 33 66, www.babooshka.pl. A smart little place, if<br />
you’re a peasant, otherwise be prepared for benches, beer<br />
and borscht. Russian cuisine isn’t for the faint hearted, and<br />
the Babooshka chain excels at serving large portions of vein<br />
clotting meats and veg to the masses. Also at ul. Krucza<br />
41/43 (C-4) and ul. Grójecka 18/20 (E-4). QOpen 10:00 -<br />
21:30. (30-40zł). PTYAUGSW<br />
Seafood<br />
Osteria F-3, ul. Koszykowa 54 (entrance from ul.<br />
Poznańska), tel. (+48) 22 621 16 46, www.osteria.pl.<br />
Some of the best seafood in <strong>Warsaw</strong>, with a menu featuring<br />
fresh oysters, langoustines, parrotfish (yes, really) and<br />
some very good octopus. The modern interior includes<br />
hardwood and porthole finishes, as well as aquariums from<br />
which African fish look on in alarm as their colleagues meet<br />
a sticky end in the open kitchen. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun<br />
14:00 - 22:00. (56-122zł). PTAGSW<br />
Spanish<br />
Casa Pablo A-3, ul. Grzybowska 5a, tel. (+48) 22 324<br />
57 81, www.casapablo.pl. Spanish restaurants are few<br />
and far between in <strong>Warsaw</strong>, so it’s not hard to stand out if<br />
that’s the menu you’re slinging. Yet Casa Pablo doesn’t rest<br />
on those laurels and ups the ante with creative Spanishinfluenced<br />
cuisine that meant we’d heard about their duck<br />
breast burger and creamy cauliflower soup before crossing<br />
their threshold (another notable entree that seafood lovers<br />
will appreciate is the scallops). That doesn’t even touch on<br />
the desserts, or the specials we’ve seen...not that you’ll<br />
need any extra enticements once you’ve explored this unique<br />
menu. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 18:00. (50-85zł). PTAUBXW<br />
Ole Tapas Steak Restaurant C-4, ul. Bracka<br />
2, tel. (+48) 519 87 57 67, www.ole-restaurant.<br />
pl. The steak trend in <strong>Warsaw</strong> shows no sign of losing<br />
steam as Ole adds to the stiff competition amongst<br />
flesh slingers, but with a Spanish twist. That theme<br />
is clear as soon as you step inside the small, modern<br />
restaurant which uses images of Flamenco dancers to<br />
line the mezzanine staircase. We’ve seen diners swoon<br />
while consuming the fresh tuna, and the Spanish tortilla<br />
packed with zucchini makes an ideal light lunch when<br />
you don’t want a slab of beef weighing you down. Oh, but<br />
when you do, Ole spoils diners for choice with Basque,<br />
Kobe, Galician and even Sirloin with foie gras. Ask your<br />
server what he recommends, as ours was liberal with<br />
solid recommendations. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-<br />
80zł). PTAGSW<br />
Sol y Sombra A-3, ul. Grzybowska 2 lok.16, tel. (+48)<br />
22 404 70 11, www.solysombra.pl. Formerly Cuatro<br />
Caminos Tapas Bar, Sol y Sambra seems to have kept the<br />
former’s kitschy décor as well as their consistently delicious<br />
cuisine (new owner, new chef), which is authentically<br />
Spanish to the core. The lunch special lands you soup and<br />
a main, and we can’t say enough for the gazpacho when<br />
it’s in season. The paella requires a bit of a wait, so get<br />
yourself some grilled asparagus with Serrano ham to make<br />
the time pass more enjoyably. As the third tapas bar to<br />
call this address home we’re thinking this one is a keeper.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (29-49zł).<br />
PA6UGSW<br />
Steak<br />
The steakhouse has enjoyed prime (get it?) placement on<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>’s dining scene of late, and talk of the best cuts,<br />
grass-fed beef and who has the juiciest New York strip can be<br />
hashed out at this list of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s steak-centric restaurants.<br />
Butchery & Wine B-4, ul. Żurawia 22, tel. (+48) 22<br />
502 31 18, www.butcheryandwine.pl. A wonderful addition<br />
to the <strong>Warsaw</strong> dining scene winning points for originality<br />
and simplicity. Try to put the image of mass slaughter over<br />
a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon out of your mind and instead<br />
visit to be met by a polite and well-drilled staff in pin-striped<br />
butchers’ aprons inside a bright, modern, relaxed venue<br />
with an open kitchen and enough wine on display to float a<br />
battleship. The menu features a range of real steaks prepared<br />
exactly to order and served on wooden boards with<br />
additional sauce and side options. While it doesn’t have to<br />
be steak (the rest of menu looked mouth-watering) we can’t<br />
imagine ever daring to order anything but such was the enjoyment<br />
we took from eating one. Recommended. Q Open<br />
12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Closed December 23 - January<br />
2. (29-220zł). PTAGSW<br />
Downtown Restaurant & Steakhouse A-4, ul.<br />
Emilii Plater 49 (<strong>In</strong>terContinental Hotel), tel. (+48)<br />
22 328 87 45, www.downtown.com.pl. Considering<br />
these are the same folks who bust out one of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s<br />
most lavish Sunday buffet each week, it’s no surprise that<br />
the <strong>In</strong>tercontinental’s Downtown restaurant holds nothing<br />
back on their extravagant steak menu. The meaty choices<br />
are global, with selections ranging from a cut of U.S. Longhorn<br />
from Iowa to a tender hunk of Charolais beef from<br />
France’s Burgundy region. Steaks can be paired with one<br />
of five sauces and seven sides, and all you need to provide<br />
is the post-meal belt-loosening. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30,<br />
12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00<br />
- 16:00, Sun 06:30 - 10:30, 12:30 - 16:00. (39-185zł).<br />
PTAUEGW<br />
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<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
56 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 57<br />
Tex-Mex<br />
Frida C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 34, tel. (+48) 22 826 42<br />
18, www.restauracjafrida.pl. Mexican ballads, sombrero<br />
shaped ashtrays and splashy pictures of Frida Kahlo; this<br />
place has the lot. Service is great, flirty even, while the menu<br />
gets gongs for featuring all the right Mexican suspects.<br />
There’s a distinct lack of dynamite to the salsa, but all in all<br />
this is a decent addition to <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s Mex offerings, and a<br />
definite alternative to your more tried Nowy Świat venues.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (22-89zł).<br />
PA6UEGS<br />
The Mexican B-3/4, ul. Zgoda 6, tel. (+48) 22 826<br />
00 09, www.mexican.pl. Unclog your system and get<br />
your guts gargling by attending The Mexican, a venue with<br />
shocking burritos that come served under a slurry of cabbage<br />
and florid sauce. A lot of effort has been put into the<br />
venue itself, and many a passerby will be wooed by the<br />
scantily clad flamenco-inspired attire of the waitresses;<br />
If only they focused half as much attention on the food.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 -<br />
24:00. (30-40zł). TAGSW<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Tortilla Factory F-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.<br />
pl. <strong>In</strong> a country that considers ketchup spicy we’re always<br />
trepidacious when restaurants boast of any sort<br />
of heat factor. Fortunately, the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Tortilla Factory<br />
isn’t kidding when they call their habanero mango salsa<br />
“explosive.” The rest of the Tex-Mex menu also lives up<br />
to expectations, with outsized burritos few adults can<br />
finish and a cheesy Philly taco that’s so wrong it’s right.<br />
And don’t forget chicken wings for 1zł on Tuesdays. Heck<br />
we’d probably lick the guacamole off the floor and wash it<br />
The best steaks in town<br />
down with a Corona. We doubt anyone at the WTF would<br />
blink if we did since the mixed crowd of locals and expats<br />
is equally as focused on their salsa-laden plates.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (18-60zł).<br />
PTA6EXSW<br />
Thai<br />
Little Thai Gallery B-3, Pl. Dąbrowskiego 2/4, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 827 44 10, www.littlethaigallery.pl. Often having<br />
a good Thai meal in <strong>Warsaw</strong> means trading atmosphere<br />
for authenticity. Thankfully you’ll have to make no such<br />
compromises at Little Thai Gallery, where the food is every<br />
bit as good as the lush surroundings. The 24zl lunch special<br />
is a steal, with soup (we liked the soy noodle with pork) tea<br />
and an entree like fresh veggie spring rolls leaving you happily<br />
stuffed. Practically any dish has the option of being ramped<br />
up to spicy hot, and the interiors will leave you as breathless<br />
as the peppers; the giant painting of a praying monk that<br />
dominates the south wall is almost as big as the restaurant<br />
itself. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00<br />
- 21:00. (25-69zł). PTA6UVGS<br />
Natara A-2, Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. (+48) 666<br />
10 15 00, www.natara.pl. Natara has one of the strangest<br />
dining spaces we’ve encountered: five tables are squeezed<br />
into a cramped, low-ceilinged second floor that’s so stuffy<br />
we saw a diner apply deodorant mid-meal. But you know<br />
what you’re going to do? Put up with it, because the food is<br />
excellent. The pad Thai is the best we’ve had in Poland, and<br />
the stir-fried rice with cocktail shrimps, pork and pineapple<br />
is a steaming pile of excellence. The menu comes in two<br />
giant tomes and has plenty of curries, vegetarian dishes<br />
and noodles to hold you over until your next trip to Thailand.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (20-48zł). PAGS<br />
Papaya C-3, ul. Foksal 16, tel. (+48) 22 826 11 99,<br />
www.papaya.waw.pl. We’ll never tire of recommending<br />
Papaya, an ice white venue rated as one of the best restaurants<br />
in the city. Oysters come plucked from the aquarium,<br />
while an open kitchen allows the pleasure of watching the<br />
chefs at work; these guys don’t miss a beat, and show off<br />
every trick in the book as they create standout dishes like<br />
steamed bass in banana leaf and class pad Thai. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00. (32-265zł). PTAXSW<br />
Ukrainian<br />
Kamanda Lwowska C-3, ul. Foksal 10, tel. (+48) 22<br />
828 10 31, www.kamandalwowska.pl. Here’s a restaurant<br />
that gets back to basics, offering up a cavalcade of dishes<br />
that have been otherwise deleted from modern <strong>Warsaw</strong>. The<br />
emphasis is firmly on the good old days - before moustached<br />
dictators started dictating Poland’s borders - and the design<br />
is a pleasing jumble of craftwork and clutter. The menu, too,<br />
has been painstakingly perfected, and includes such masterstrokes<br />
as cheesecake cooked to a secret grandparent’s<br />
recipe. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (37-49zł). PTAEGSW<br />
Vegetarian<br />
Biosfeera F-6, Al. Niepoległości 80, tel. (+48) 22 898<br />
01 55, www.biosfeera.com. An ultra-funky interior full of<br />
hanging canvas lamps, orange dashes and shining wood finishes<br />
generates the hip atmosphere normally lacking in Polish<br />
vegetarian haunts. The Koza Italiana is a fantastic way to prime<br />
yourself for the meatless main courses that come with names<br />
like Szpinakolada and Tortilla Kama Sutra. Freshly squeezed<br />
juices and fruit cocktails come as refreshment, and expect<br />
the thousand-yard stare if you ask for a beer and an ashtray.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (29-39zł). TA6UGSW<br />
Green Bar B-3, ul. Szpitalna 6, tel. (+48) 22 625 00<br />
55, www.greenbar.waw.pl. An oasis of veggie goodness<br />
in the meaty heart of this carnivorous city, Green Bar keeps<br />
it simple - soup, quiches, light meals and the like - but does<br />
so very well indeed, and keeps prices low, ensuring it a<br />
steady stream of customers - at lunchtime especially. Just<br />
about your only veggie option this close to the city centre,<br />
we say get here while you can. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun<br />
11:00 - 21:00. (12-15zł). PAUGS<br />
smaczneGO! B-4, ul. Wspólna 54a, tel. (+48) 603<br />
95 35 25. SmaczneGO is disarmingly simple: lots of food<br />
for little money, all of it easily packed to go. Takeout orders<br />
outnumber the sit-down diners and the employees earn their<br />
wages hustling between the kitchen and the front counter<br />
with containers of soup and piles of goulash. There’s more<br />
vegetarian options than your average <strong>Warsaw</strong> restaurant,<br />
though our veggie burrito stretched the boundaries of what<br />
even the most liberal Mexican would consider legit (we’re<br />
pretty sure the same tomato sauce used for the lasagne is<br />
doused on top of the burrito). QOpen 09:30 - 20:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (9-16zł). PTA6GS<br />
Vietnamese<br />
Nam Sajgon C-4, ul. Bracka 18, tel. (+48) 880 63 39 85.<br />
This Vietnamese gem has upgraded from its origins as a stall<br />
in the National Stadium to a two-level spot on Bracka, but the<br />
lines haven’t changed. That’s because you can’t beat the fresh<br />
spring rolls or the large vermicelli salads, which will easily provide<br />
tomorrow’s lunch too. The steaming bowls of Pho are one of the<br />
most popular options thanks to the delicious meaty broth, and<br />
the list of teas and Vietnamese coffee are equally impressive.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 21:30, Sun 10:00 - 20:30. (10-19zł). GS<br />
Hot Beer<br />
There’s a number of ways to survive winter in Poland,<br />
and we’ve tried them all; from dressing up like Eskimos<br />
to eating loads of fat and staying home. Of all the<br />
methods none however rewards as much as heading<br />
down the pub. It’s in these noble establishments you’ll<br />
find the answer to the ice age, namely a pint of grzane<br />
piwo – that’s hot beer to you and me. Now it might<br />
sound rancid but give it a try. You’ll get a frothing beer<br />
served piping hot with a choice of various flavourings<br />
– cloves, cinnamon, honey, ginger and an array of fruit<br />
juices. Grzane wino – mulled wine – is equally popular<br />
at this time of year and is particularly decent when<br />
using a dry red.<br />
Couple of things a veteran will keep their eye out for;<br />
firstly, the distant ping of a microwave is usually a giveaway<br />
that they don’t know what they’re doing behind the<br />
scenes. You most certainly don’t want your drink fried.<br />
Secondly, ask for a mug, not a glass. Drinks lose their<br />
temperature fast so it’s always best to have a mug,<br />
preferably a sturdy clay chap. Thirdly, and a gentle prod<br />
to any simpletons, remember your drink is going to be<br />
scorching hot when it arrives. Gulping it down in one is<br />
going to seriously hurt. And remember, if you’re trying<br />
this at home, never let the drink hit boiling point. That’s<br />
disaster. If you’re too scared to get creative yourself<br />
then you’ll find ready-to-heat mulled wine on sale in off<br />
licenses - look for Grzaniec Galicyjski. During the colder<br />
months you will find most restaurants and bars offering<br />
some form of hot alcohol and we can’t recommend<br />
them enough.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
58<br />
CAFÉS CAFÉS<br />
Blikle Café C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. (+48) 22 826<br />
64 50, www.blikle.pl. A part of <strong>Warsaw</strong> folklore. This is<br />
where Charles De Gaulle used to come for his donuts back in<br />
his <strong>Warsaw</strong> days, and Blikle still sell a chocolate and marzipan<br />
cake honouring their famous guest. A classy, august venue,<br />
with a menu available until midnight that includes a range<br />
of breakfasts, lunches, ice creams and a dessert selection<br />
that will have you in heaven. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 24:00. PTAGSW<br />
Bubbleology B-3, ul. Chmielna 26, www.bubbleology.pl.<br />
Few things have gotten us more excited than the<br />
arrival (finally!) of bubble tea in Poland. Bubbleology is a<br />
UK chain that offers milk and fruit teas that can be mixed<br />
in any number of combinations - - just ask one of the lab<br />
coat-wearing “bubbleologists” behind the counter for their<br />
most creative recommendations; passionfruit and vanilla?<br />
Taro and kumquat? It’s just tea and tables here, but that’s<br />
all you need to enjoy this tall, cold refreshment. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 23:00, Sun 10:30 - 22:00.<br />
PAGS<br />
Cafe Baguette B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 69,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 828 76 10. Confronted with Cafe Baguette’s<br />
impressive wall of loaves and pastries it’s fair to question<br />
whether you took a wrong turn on K-P and somehow ended<br />
up in a cosy Parisian boulangerie. <strong>In</strong> a city where good bread<br />
can be harder to find than happy stories Cafe Baguette is<br />
a welcome (and already popular) addition. Salads, quiches<br />
and thick sandwiches fill up their display case, while baskets<br />
of croissants and desserty goodness surround the register.<br />
The outdoor seats provide a great spot for people watching<br />
while diving into sticky pastries. Q Open 06:00 - 24:00, Fri,<br />
Sat, Sun 06:00 - 01:00. TA6UGSW<br />
Cafe Próżna B-3, ul. Próżna 12, tel. (+48) 22 620<br />
32 57, www.cafeprozna.pl. Making a stir with <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s<br />
intellectuals is Cafe Próżna, a cracking cafe set inside a<br />
shattered building that looks ready to keel over. You’ll be<br />
lucky to find a seat inside this narrow venue, even more so<br />
if there’s a lecture or reading going on. Decorated with prewar<br />
photographs, Próżna comes with a pile of well-thumbed<br />
history books in the entrance, tiny tea candles and a basement<br />
level to soak up any overflow of customers. The only<br />
disappointment here are the smoothies; nowhere near as<br />
good as the venue deserves. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Mon,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. 6GSW<br />
Café Vincent C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. (+48) 22<br />
828 01 15. This place is a great French bakery and coffee<br />
shop doing a huge range of authentic pastries and bread.<br />
This is rather unfortunate as the large queue and tiny shop<br />
space move quickly while you dither, and you also risk being<br />
smacked by a baguette if you turn around too quickly, but<br />
it’s worth it as a coffee and croissant will set you back less<br />
than 20zl. Also at ul. Jana Pawła II 82 (D-1, Arkadia). QOpen<br />
06:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 01:00. PAGSW<br />
Chłodna 25 E-2, ul. Żelazna 75a (entrance from ul.<br />
Chłodna), tel. (+48) 22 620 24 13, chlodna25.blog.pl.<br />
The unofficial home of <strong>Warsaw</strong> counter-culture, and something<br />
of a community centre for wacky art types; they’re all<br />
here, from ex-pat hacks typing up tomorrow’s copy, to drama<br />
queers committing theatre scripts to memory. Distracting<br />
them from the duty at hand are jazzy tunes, poetry slams<br />
and the occasional comedy show, plus plenty of wine and<br />
beer. Chairs of varying style and condition, board games and<br />
batty artwork all add to the atmosphere, making C25 every<br />
bit as appealing as it is curious. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 23:00. P6GSW<br />
Coffee Karma F-4, Pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. (+48) 22<br />
875 87 09, www.coffeekarma.eu. Earnest looking intellectuals<br />
read Hesse while taking languid sips of hand-roasted<br />
coffee. Huge windows afford views of Pl. Zbawiciela, and the<br />
staff are also adept at fixing exotic smoothies. Ten out of<br />
ten. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 -<br />
23:00. PTA6GSW<br />
Costa by Coffee Heaven C-3, ul. Krakowskie<br />
Przedmieście 8, tel. (+48) 22 828 28 58, www.<br />
costacoffee.pl. Costa recently upgraded their digs from<br />
a less-than-inspiring (and often faintly bathroom-spelling)<br />
location on Nowy Świat to this new, airy and arty space on<br />
Krakowskie Przedmieście. The transition hasn’t affected<br />
the standard corporate menu of reliable coffees and premade<br />
sandwiches, but the atmosphere is a major upgrade<br />
and the clientele now skews decidedly younger thank to its<br />
proximity to the University. One of the best renewals of a<br />
tired brand that we’ve seen in a while. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00,<br />
Fri 07:00 - 21:30, Sat 08:00 - 21:30, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.<br />
PTAGSW<br />
Green Caffe Nero G-5, ul. Tadeusza Boja-Żeleńskiego<br />
2, tel. (+48) 22 118 25 20, www.greencaffenero.pl. It’s<br />
the perfect caffeinated marriage: Poland’s popular Green<br />
Coffee joins forces with the UK-based Caffe Nero to create<br />
this first-of-its-kind joint venture. <strong>In</strong> this case everyone wins<br />
- - Caffe Nero provides their Italian blends while Green Coffee<br />
offers house-made sandwiches to the hungry PC-users that<br />
swarm the fluffy couches and wood slab tables. The cafe<br />
itself is on Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, one stop down on the tram from<br />
the too-cool-for-school Pl. Zbawiciela, which means you won’t<br />
be fighting underfed hipsters for a seat. There’s still some<br />
growing pains to work out (the music’s too loud, the bathroom<br />
has windows that allow you to wave at neighbours from the<br />
seat) but overall it’s a match made in espresso heaven.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PA6UGSW<br />
Lody na Patyku C-2, ul. Lipowa 7a, tel. (+48) 602<br />
13 46 34. Poles love their ice cream, and Lody na Patyku<br />
(roughly “Ice Cream on a Stick”) takes that love affair to a<br />
more sophisticated level with a large variety of ice cream<br />
flavours and coatings that are slapped on sticks, reshaped<br />
(hearts, giant paws) and sprinkled with toppings (coconut,<br />
pistachios) that make deciding on the perfect stick a lengthy<br />
process. The first floor offers seating and the option for<br />
legitimate meals like soups and sandwiches, but embrace<br />
your inner eight year old and go with an ice cream or two.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. TA6GSW<br />
Loft B-3, ul. Złota 11, tel. (+48) 608 60 84 88, www.<br />
cafeloft.pl. Mixed in amongst fast food choices like KFC<br />
and Sphinx comes Loft, a welcome respite for those who<br />
don’t necessarily want a meal in the city centre that requires<br />
eating with your fingers. The space itself is fun, with bubbly<br />
lights and bright furniture mixing with wacky S&M cartoonish<br />
artwork and tableside aquariums. Lunch is your best bet, with<br />
sandwiches flying out of the kitchen for just 15zł and large<br />
salads setting you back 25zl. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. PTA6UEXSW<br />
Ministerstwo Kawy F-4, ul. Marszałkowska 27/35,<br />
tel. (+48) 503 08 09 06, www.ministerstwokawy.pl.<br />
Another café at Plac Zbawiciela? Just when we thought it<br />
had reached critical mass (Charlotte, Coffee Karma and<br />
Kawiarnia Funky are all mere steps away) Ministerstwo<br />
Kawy throws open its doors and proves that all you truly<br />
need for a successful coffee shop is an espresso machine,<br />
a few chairs and reliable Wi-Fi. Oh, and bathrooms. Students<br />
have claimed this place as their own, and the tables are<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
consistently filled with backpacks and half-eaten bowls of<br />
soup. Our favourite spot for pulling long laptop sessions<br />
with no hassle or hipsters. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun<br />
10:00 - 22:00. PA6UGSW<br />
Moments Tasty Life ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, www.<br />
tastylife.pl. Yes, it sounds like a three-year-old named the<br />
place. Overlook it. Moments occupies a prime spot at the<br />
intersection of Nowy Świat and Jerozolimskie inside the<br />
former stock exchange building, which means great people<br />
watching while you nibble that carrot cake (or shovel it down<br />
like us). There’s plenty of outdoor seating when the weather is<br />
right, and inside it’s sparse, modern and populated by some<br />
impressively well-made coffee drinks. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PTAUGSW<br />
Petit Appetit C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. (+48) 22<br />
826 44 61, www.petitappetit.pl. The sprawling street<br />
of Nowy Świat/Krakowskie Przedmieście is now bookended<br />
with boulangeries: on the northern end there’s Cafe Baguette,<br />
and on the southern Petit Appetit. This French newcomer<br />
already impresses by offering fantastic homemade crepes<br />
and fluffy omelettes along with authentic crusty bread that<br />
patrons can watch being baked via a large glass window on<br />
the kitchen. The usual pain au chocolates and creme brulees<br />
line the bakery case along with a mind-boggling array of<br />
loaves that beg to be taken on the go (in your bicycle basket<br />
no less). Our only complaint? The coffee cups lack useable<br />
handles! Yet its a price we’re willing to pay for a little taste of<br />
Paris. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. PA6UGSW<br />
Piękna Bistro - Espresso F-4, ul. Piękna 20, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 627 41 51, www.jazzzone.pl. Open early<br />
and aimed at those who rush to work with computer bags<br />
hoisted over their shoulders. Coffee on the run with in-house<br />
baked croissants and baguettes inside the sleek interiors<br />
one associates with what is now called the Jazz Zone chain.<br />
Renovations were recently completed, so you can now experience<br />
a refreshed Piekna Espresso. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
PTAUXSW<br />
Słodki Słony G-4, ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. (+48) 22<br />
622 49 34, www.slodkislony.pl. Exceedingly ornate<br />
interiors announce the arrival of one more Magda Gessler<br />
venture, this one with a heavy emphasis on cakes, pastries<br />
and chocolate. There’s guilty pleasures aplenty in this place,<br />
and all packaged inside a design that’s half Martha Stewart<br />
and half English country house. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Mon<br />
11:00 - 24:00. PA6GSW<br />
Starbucks Coffee C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 62, tel. (+48)<br />
713 86 19 53, www.starbucks.pl. Anti-globalists weep.<br />
After years of threatening so the agents of Satan, Starbucks,<br />
have opened shop in <strong>Warsaw</strong>, and in the most obvious location<br />
of all - bang on Nowy Świat. And it’s everything you’d expect -<br />
big, comfortable, popular, and with very good coffee combos<br />
to keep the people coming over and over again. Also on (A-2)<br />
Al. Solidarności 68a, (A-2), Al. Solidarności 82, (A-3) ul. Emilii<br />
Plater 53 and (B-4) Al. Jerozolimskie 63. QOpen 07:30 - 21:30,<br />
Fri, Sat 07:30 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:30. PAUGSW<br />
To Lubię B-1, ul. Freta 10, tel. (+48) 22 635 90 23,<br />
www.tolubie.pl. Divine. Coffee, cakes, pies, breakfast, coffee<br />
and apple or plum crumble at 12zł a slice (not necessarily<br />
in that order). Opposite the church on a street that is best<br />
known as being tourist-trap central, this is the kind of place<br />
you can get all twee and generally Krakow for a moment.<br />
Old/New Town should be full of places like is. ‘I like this’ is<br />
what the name means and we do. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00..<br />
PTA6GS<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Chocolate Lounges<br />
If there’s one universal truth about Poles it’s that<br />
they love their dessert. What might be considered<br />
a special treat or indulgence in your country is a<br />
standard part of the meal, a staple not to be left out.<br />
A lap past any ice cream parlour or bakery typically<br />
reveals long lines and hefty purchases (yet still the<br />
Poles stay impressively skinny. Unfair). Evidence of<br />
this sugary fanaticism can be found in the long tradition<br />
of ‘chocolate lounges,’ cafes that are devoted<br />
to the cocoa-driven nectar in a way you thought only<br />
Hansel and Gretel could imagine.<br />
NEW<br />
Karmello B-3, ul. Chmielna 11, www.karmello.<br />
pl. Taking its time in coming to the capital, this general<br />
newcomer to PL’s confectionery tradition has already<br />
established itself as one of the country’s finest chocolatiers<br />
with ten shops in seven other Polish cities.<br />
Packed full of stunning display cases that practically<br />
sparkle with over 50 varieties of exclusively-crafted<br />
chocolates - plus truffles, chocolate bars, candied<br />
chocolate-dipped fruit and other specialties - the<br />
hot chocolate and coffee concoctions are perfect on<br />
a cold day and there’s a lovely terrace in the warm<br />
months. Ideal for picking up a nice gift in a pinch, or<br />
plan ahead and get some sweets personalised in advance.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PTA6UGSW<br />
Pijalnie Czekolady Wedel B-3, ul. Szpitalna 8,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 827 29 16, www.wedelpijalnie.pl.<br />
The reason everyone at Czekolady Wedel looks like<br />
they’re in a daze is because this is the mothership of<br />
chocolate cafes, ground zero for all things dark, milk<br />
and achingly sweet. Wedel is the country’s longest<br />
established chocolate manufacturer and one of the<br />
best known brands in Poland. This classy venue,<br />
featuring comfortable seating in room after room of<br />
tables, is located in what was once the factory and<br />
cafe of the Wedel business. You’ll still be able to taste<br />
the original chocolate creations of its founders which<br />
were so popular that Karol Wedel had to introduce<br />
a factory seal carrying his signature to combat the<br />
number of forged ‘Wedel’ products that were filling<br />
the market in the 1860s. The menu here is impressive<br />
in both its size and scope, covering every variety of<br />
chocolate drink, dessert, truffle and ice cream dish<br />
imaginable. Chocolate comas are inevitable. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.<br />
PTAGSW<br />
Wawel B-3, ul. Królewska 2, tel. (+48) 22 828<br />
14 99, www.wawel.com.pl. Yes it sounds awfully<br />
similar to Wedel, and their histories are equally alike.<br />
Confectioner Adam Piasecki founded the company in<br />
1898 in Krakow and, making it through World War II,<br />
Wawel became a recognisable Polish brand for sweets.<br />
Their <strong>Warsaw</strong> chocolate lounge is located on swank<br />
Krakowskie Przedmieście, and though it is nowhere near<br />
as vast as the Wedel lounge nor as daunting in menu<br />
choices, chocoholics can still indulge in a ridiculous<br />
array of truffles and treats. The hot chocolate’s impressively<br />
diverse for the adventurous, with Cherry Crush<br />
and Cinnamon Islands recommended for those who<br />
like to compliment their chocolate with additional flavours.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 21:00.<br />
PA6GSW<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
59
60 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE<br />
Night at a glance<br />
A thriving capital city it might<br />
be, but <strong>Warsaw</strong> still lags behind<br />
other European hotspots<br />
when it comes to hedonistic<br />
capers. There is no area<br />
truly set aside for nightlife,<br />
and hailing taxis to get from<br />
Bar A to Club B is a tediously<br />
frequent occurrence. The area<br />
around pl. Pilsudskiego and<br />
pl. Teatralny has become a<br />
firm favourite with a dressy crowd of new money Poles,<br />
somewhat replacing the more established territories of<br />
Nowy Swiat, pl. Trzech Krzyzy and ul. Sienkiewicza. If<br />
dressing to the nines is firmly out of the question then<br />
consider heading across the river to the artsy bars cropping<br />
up in the Praga district. <strong>In</strong> a worrying development<br />
many clubs have now assumed the thinking that the<br />
clothes maketh the man, and you’ll find most places<br />
now operating a velvet rope door policy to ensure only<br />
those kitted in their Saturday finery make it as far as the<br />
dance floor. Open hours listed should only be treated as<br />
rough approximation; in practice many bars and clubs<br />
will open way beyond the call of duty if the need arises,<br />
but by the same benchmark will happily bolt the doors<br />
if business is slow.<br />
Here are a few recommendations depending on what<br />
you are looking for.<br />
Local<br />
Bierhalle is a large microbrewery on Nowy Swiat that<br />
churns out respectable vats of beer in a central location.<br />
Newcomer Srodmiejska has live music, a legit food<br />
menu and a relaxed <strong>Warsaw</strong> hipster vibe.<br />
Cheap<br />
It has to be The Secret Garden, a ramshackle collection<br />
of dive bars in the courtyard behind Nowy Swiat that offers<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> drinking in its rawest form. And if you don’t<br />
mind herring and 5zl vodka shots explore the 24 hour<br />
zakaskas bars like Warszawska and Pijalnia Wódki i<br />
Piwa to drink like a local.<br />
Lads<br />
For Sky Sports and grub then take your pick from The<br />
British Bulldog, <strong>Warsaw</strong> Tortilla Factory, Legends<br />
and Someplace Else. If you’ve cleaned up and are ready<br />
to impress hit up Foksal street for clubs like Sketch and<br />
Foksal XVIII, which boast A-list clientele. But if your<br />
requirements are a little more carnal read up on our<br />
adult section and then proceed wisely.<br />
Couples<br />
If you like to swill custom cocktails try newcomer Pies<br />
Czy Suka, but if you prefer your drinks in one of two<br />
colours - white or red - then try Ż urawina Rest & Wine.<br />
However if your true love is obscure beers then Konstytucja<br />
Klubokawiarnia will melt your heart.<br />
Splurge<br />
Paparazzi’s cocktails are worth the dip into your wallet,<br />
as are the drinks at the Marriott’s Panorama bar, which<br />
offers views from the 40th floor that will cost you. If you’re<br />
dressed to impress hit up Capitol for the chance to drink<br />
like a champagne-loving oligarch.<br />
Bars & Pubs<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> has a thriving bar scene, and hitting up one of<br />
the many venues listed here offers the chance to sample<br />
Poland’s national beverage - vodka - long with plenty of<br />
local beers. You’ll be offered beer either in 0.3 or 0.5<br />
litre sizes, and prices depend greatly on how swank your<br />
establishment; expect to pay 7-10zl for a large beer for<br />
the most part.<br />
Beirut Hummus & Music Bar B-4, ul. Poznańska<br />
12. Our favorite new addition to <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s bar scene, Beirut<br />
is pure atmosphere - the bar itself is made with sandbags,<br />
after all - and offers traditional Lebanese snacks like olive<br />
oil-soaked hummus and falafel to pair with your beer.<br />
While the weather is nice the front is open to the street,<br />
letting passersby marvel at the sound system and the<br />
unique hairstyles of the hip staff. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00.<br />
PAUGW<br />
Bierhalle C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. (+48) 609 67<br />
77 65, www.bierhalle.pl. <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s best beer served in<br />
a bi-level space filled with chunky woods, bare bricks and<br />
industrial flourishes. The menu, presented by girls dressed<br />
in countryside apparel, features big photographs of what you<br />
can expect, including life-size pics of the beer - order a big<br />
one here and you’ll be left getting to grips with clunky two pint<br />
steins that are ideal for showing off your bicep flexes. Also<br />
at Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (D-1, Arkadia). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PAGW<br />
British Bulldog Pub C-4, ul. Krucza 51, tel. (+48)<br />
22 827 00 20, www.bbpub.pl. One of the biggest anticlimaxes<br />
of 2012. Found in the venue that for many years<br />
housed the uninviting London Steak House, the British<br />
Bulldog pub saw the place completely rebuilt, a great year<br />
round terrace added (where you can smoke) and the introduction<br />
of British and Irish beers. A good looking menu and<br />
satellite television promised some sort of choice for the<br />
English speaking expat zloty. And then the British front man<br />
leaves shortly after the re-launch and the place loses traction.<br />
Far be it for us to declare this place as lost so early as<br />
it still looks impressive and the beer is wet and the satellite<br />
connected, but it’s got a lot to do particularly in the kitchen<br />
and on the service front to get a thumbs up from us. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 01:00. PAUGBW<br />
Bufet Centralny B-4, ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. (+48)<br />
532 74 91 60, www.bufetcentralny.pl. Houndstooth and<br />
concrete don’t sound like the recipe for <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s hippest<br />
bar, and when you throw in the view from the large patio - a<br />
hulking parking garage - it sounds even more grim. But Bufet<br />
Centralny is painfully cool, with its stark space populated by<br />
drinkers that sport at minimum 3 tattoos apiece. We can’t<br />
put our finger on exactly why they’ve become the ‘it’ bar (its<br />
definitely not the service) but weekends this place is tighter<br />
than a hipster’s jeans. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00<br />
- 05:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. PAG<br />
Cafe Kulturalna (Culture Café) B-4, Pl. Defilad 1<br />
(PKiN), tel. (+48) 22 656 62 81, www.kulturalna.pl.<br />
Cafe, bar and club, Cafe Kulturalna is an amazing space,<br />
and unmissable if you appreciate a venue with character.<br />
Decorated with vinyl armchairs, artwork and tasteless<br />
50s chandeliers this is a magnet for the student intelligentsia.<br />
DJs, film screenings, readings and assorted artsy<br />
tosh regularly held. Find it in the Palace of Culture on the<br />
Marszałkowska side of the building next to the theatre in the<br />
south-east corner. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -<br />
04:00. AUEGW<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com
62 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 63<br />
Polish Friends of Beer Party<br />
IYP_Capitol_Druk_free boutle.indd 1 1/23/12 6:15 PM<br />
Sure, it started out as<br />
a joke: <strong>In</strong> 1990 satirist<br />
Janusz Rewinski formed<br />
the Polish Friends of<br />
Beer Party (Polska Partia<br />
Przyjaciol Piwa<br />
or PPPP in Polish) to<br />
promote the country’s<br />
second most beloved<br />
polskapartianarodowa.org<br />
beverage during the<br />
new shift in government. The concept was popular<br />
enough, in fact, to inspire a similar party in Russia as<br />
well. And thanks to some disillusionment with Poland’s<br />
democratic transition after the end of communism a<br />
number of Poles voted for the prank party, and in the<br />
1991 parliamentary elections 16 seats were nabbed<br />
by the PPPP. What started out as a joke – their slogan<br />
regarding the party running Poland: “it wouldn’t be<br />
better but for sure it would be funnier” – evolved into<br />
a semi-serious platform thanks to the newly acquired<br />
seats. Of course, the divided cannot conquer, so when<br />
the party split into Large Beer and Small Beer factions<br />
it signalled the end of the jokey era, and eventually<br />
the Large Beer faction transformed into the far less<br />
humorous Polish Economic Program. Today little<br />
remains of the group except for well-earned entries<br />
in top ten lists of most ridiculous political parties and<br />
Facebook groups celebrating the original idea: that<br />
consuming quality beer is a symbol of freedom and a<br />
better standard of living.<br />
Champions Sports Bar & Restaurant B-4, Al.<br />
Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. (+48)<br />
22 630 51 19, www.champions.pl. A classic sports<br />
bar filled with glittering trophies, signed shirts and other<br />
sporting detritus. Some 30 screens and projectors beam<br />
out action from across the world, while those wishing to<br />
exercise more than their eyes can choose from pool tables,<br />
playstations and dart machines that beep and whir during<br />
moments of particular drama. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
PAUXW<br />
Hard Rock Cafe B-4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel.<br />
(+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Sure you<br />
don’t need to see Freddie Mercury’s red leather pants to<br />
enjoy a night out, but it certainly doesn’t hurt. The Hard Rock<br />
Cafe’s large downstairs bar area is jumping at night even<br />
when live rock shows aren’t on the agenda. The endless<br />
bar mixes up a long list of colourful cocktails for a heavily<br />
ex-pat crowd taking in paraphernalia like a well-worn Bee<br />
Gees guitar and a black leather outfit that formerly clung<br />
to Madonna’s early 90s frame. When music is on tap the<br />
crowd becomes more varied (and youthful) but just as<br />
devoted to the strum of a Fender. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
PAUEGW<br />
Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22 (Praga), tel. (+48)<br />
502 07 09 16, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. You will not<br />
find a more unkempt bar than Hydrozagadka; this place<br />
looks like it’s been ransacked by students, and it’s almost<br />
advisable to check yourself for fleas when leaving. Decorations<br />
aren’t so much limited as virtually non-existent, and<br />
you won’t find much more than brick walls and a collection<br />
of seats that appear to have been rescued from the rubbish.<br />
But while it looks scruffy this has emerged as one of the<br />
best places in town, with off-beat performances enjoyed<br />
by a crowd that doesn’t get out of bed till way after noon.<br />
Q Open Fri, Sat only 19:00 - 05:00 and during events.<br />
PAUEXW<br />
JP’s Bar A-3, Al. Jana Pawła II 21 (The Westin Hotel),<br />
tel. (+48) 22 450 86 30, www.westin.pl/en. An airy<br />
hotel bar whose name is actually a reference to the bar’s<br />
designer, not the wildly popular Pope John Paul II. Light<br />
coloured furnishings come interspersed by a smattering<br />
of house plants which look on as a well-dressed yet casual<br />
crowd enjoys expertly poured premium drinks in the finest<br />
of settings. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00.<br />
PAUGW<br />
Kafefajka C-3, ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 101, www.kafefajka.<br />
com. Duck inside Kafefajka and you’ll be rewarded with a bar<br />
that simulates a Turkish tent complete with jangly music and<br />
sweeping fabric hanging from the ceiling (and if you’re lucky,<br />
a belly dancer or two). The draw here is water pipes with unusual<br />
flavours; we’re partial to the melon, but apple-mint and<br />
banana sound intriguing. The large space and open booths<br />
are ideal for groups that like to pass the pipe and indulge<br />
in Carlsberg or Okocim for less than 10zł. Also at (C-4), ul.<br />
Nowy Świat 26/28 pav. 20. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat<br />
12:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 03:00. PAXW<br />
Klaps C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 22/28 (Pavilion 12a).<br />
Peculiarities abound in the drinking maze known as The<br />
Secret Garden, but none come close to matching Klaps in<br />
the weirdness stakes. There’s dildos for beer taps and a wall<br />
of plastic boobs, and like everywhere in this area, you won’t<br />
find beer costing more than 9zł. Finding it is a challenge in<br />
itself - it’s close to the passage that connects the courtyard<br />
to Smolna. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00, Mon 15:00 - 01:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 17:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. PAX<br />
Konstytucja Klubokawiarnia F-4, Pl. Konstytucji<br />
4, tel. (+48) 22 465 86 28, www.konstytucja.waw.<br />
pl. Konstytucja Klub wants badly to be located at hip Pl.<br />
Zbawicela, and to be a legitimate destination for your next<br />
meal. It’s neither, but don’t strike it from your list just yet.<br />
The beer list alone is why we’ll be returning, with more<br />
than 30 local beers (Lwówek, Czarnków, Cormorant) and<br />
even interlopers from Ukraine and the Czech Republic to<br />
choose from. The menu card describes each in detail and<br />
even offers pictures to boot, so your choices - regardless<br />
of your blood alcohol level - will always be informed. Live<br />
music on the weekend means you won’t be drinking alone,<br />
either. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.<br />
AUEGW<br />
Kwadrat F-4, ul. Poznańska 7 (entrance from ul. Wilcza),<br />
tel. (+48) 608 64 99 41, www.kwadrat.waw.pl.<br />
One of our favourite finds this year, Kwadrat is a tiny little<br />
place that’s not unlike popping round a mate’s house - provided<br />
your mate had seven tables and a fridge full of beer. And<br />
wow, what a fridge it is. Hiding inside it find some of the great<br />
beers of Poland, the Czech Republic and Ukraine, including<br />
Ciechan and Obolon: superb brews that do a lot to redress the<br />
damage caused by the megabrand beers. There’s not much<br />
more to this place, just a friendly welcome, cheap prices,<br />
chilled out tracks and a hip 20s crowd usually engrossed in<br />
some board game or other. Highly recommended, even more<br />
so if you just want a good night with select friends. QOpen<br />
16:00 - 22:00, Fri 16:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed<br />
Sun. PAGW<br />
Legends British Bar & Restaurant B-4, ul. Emilii<br />
Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legendsbar.pl.<br />
British owned and run, not 150 metres from the Marriott, this<br />
is a resto-pub with a bright, clean look, four flatscreen tvs on<br />
which you can watch SKY and Canal +, real dart boards and<br />
a cracking menu of British-style grub to soak up the Polish<br />
beer, British ales and rarely-seen spirits like Captain Morgan<br />
dark rum. This is also one of the places that has built a new<br />
indoor smoking room. To add that extra sports feel walls<br />
come decorated with pictures depicting all the games the<br />
British have invented for the rest of the world to beat them at.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PABXW<br />
Panorama Bar & Lounge B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie<br />
65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 630 74 34,<br />
www.panoramabar.pl. <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s highest bar - and<br />
indeed Poland’s - sits on the 40th floor of the Marriott<br />
with prices to match the top tier location. The views of<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> glimmering below are outstanding, and they’re<br />
no longer the only reason to visit. Gone is the JR Ewing<br />
glitz and chrome, replaced instead by a tasteful interior<br />
consisting of flock print wallpaper, violet seating and clever<br />
lighting. There’s no better place for Sleepless <strong>In</strong> Seattle<br />
seduction, or a corporate chinwag. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00.<br />
PAUEXW<br />
Paparazzi B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. (+48) 22<br />
828 42 19, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Not everyone’s cup<br />
of tea perhaps, but every time we come here we always<br />
think to ourselves ‘they get little wrong and a lot right.’<br />
Serves good food - and the kitchen is open nearly as late<br />
as the bar most nights (until 01:00) - good cocktails and<br />
a decent pint. And, whisper it, but you can smoke here:<br />
in fact, it is business as usual on the smoking front, as<br />
the whole place is a smoking zone, apart from two small<br />
tables at the entrance. That’s why it’s full when all around<br />
is empty. Top marks. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun.<br />
PAUXW<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
64 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 65<br />
Wine<br />
Jung & Lecker B-4, ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. (+48)<br />
22 866 67 49, www.jungilecker.pl. We loved the<br />
back garden here, a cool courtyard space festooned<br />
with paintings and plantlife. Good thing the rest of it<br />
isn’t bad either as the garden is closed out of season.<br />
A simple, chic design that doesn’t go overboard, a<br />
wine list which is exhaustive, knowledgeable service<br />
and an increasingly trendy location all win it points.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed<br />
Sun. PAGW<br />
NEW<br />
Żurawina Rest & Wine B-4, ul. Żurawia 32, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 521 06 66, www.zurawina.eu. One of<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>’s most attractive new destinations, entering<br />
Żurawina isn’t unlike attending an exclusive vernissage,<br />
except instead of staring at esoteric art you<br />
can train your eyes on the good looks of the glitterati<br />
all around you. Nibble on the variety of bruschettas<br />
that complement their large wine list and position<br />
yourself to be seen through the wall-length street view<br />
windows. There’s more filling fare as well of course,<br />
and this is an ideal venue for impressing a date - the<br />
swings hanging in the middle of the space are guaranteed<br />
to make the two of you look absolutely adorable<br />
together. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PTA6GSW<br />
Sport on TV<br />
We know that sometimes there’s a match and you just<br />
have to see it. Where to go? Most bars with a screen will<br />
subscribe to Canal + Sport, a channel that not only has<br />
intensive coverage of the local sides, but also shows<br />
English Premiership games each Saturday and Sunday.<br />
The only downside is the droll Polish commentary rattling<br />
on in the background. If you demand Sky Sports<br />
then <strong>Warsaw</strong> has a number of decent options. All of<br />
the following also relay the American version of football.<br />
Legends British Bar & Restaurant B-4, ul. Emilii<br />
Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legendsbar.pl.<br />
Found 150 metres from the Marriott is a British<br />
bar, run by a Brit and with Sky and Canal+ available. Add<br />
in a British food and ale menu and you should be sorted.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 -<br />
02:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PAXW<br />
SomePlace Else C-4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.<br />
warszawa.someplace-else.pl. Located in the Sheraton,<br />
SPE has flat screens stationed around an upmarket<br />
industrial space - even during the Sunday brunch televisions<br />
did double duty showing ski races and tennis. A<br />
great menu of American classics like burgers and steaks<br />
along with an extravagant selection of drinks. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
PAUEGW<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Tortilla Factory F-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl.<br />
With Dubliner Niall in charge WTF have a set of screens<br />
located around the bar, beer taps on tables, a killer<br />
Tex-Mex menu and a separate smoking room. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PAEXW<br />
NEW<br />
Pardon, To Tu A-3, Pl. Grzybowski 12/14/16, tel.<br />
(+48) 513 19 16 41, www.pardontotu.pl. There are<br />
places that try to be cool, and then there are places that just<br />
are. Pardon To Tu falls comfortably into the latter. A music<br />
club for people who actually know and love music (not loud<br />
bass and lasers), PTT essentially looks like someone rolled<br />
the racks out of an indie record store, replaced them with<br />
cheap tables and chairs and invited all their friends over.<br />
Disinterested (re:cool) DJs play whatever they want for the<br />
low-key crowd of hipsters and their dogs hanging out beneath<br />
vinyl records that you can buy off the walls. They’ve got good,<br />
cheap Italian food to curb the munchies and in summer the<br />
space out front becomes a sprawling beer garden. Host to<br />
frequent concerts and film screenings, this is a veritable cultural<br />
centre and a great place to make new friends. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 02:00. TA6UEGSW<br />
Patrick’s Irish Pub B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 31, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 628 93 71, www.patrickspub.pl. A grotty bar<br />
that draws in sports fans and visiting stag parties in equal<br />
measure. The air is thick with testosterone, the bar stools are<br />
tree trunks covered in animal hides, there’s nary a peep of<br />
daylight and the toilets are still in a sorry state. All appealing<br />
for men, but ladies beware. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat<br />
10:00 - 03:00. PAEGW<br />
Pies Czy Suka/Pure Bar B-3, ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 881 83 73, www.piesczysuka.com. Pies<br />
Czy Suka (“Dog or Bitch”) is a high-end design boutique<br />
that opened a craft cocktail bar with stunning results. The<br />
space itself is what you’d expect when design folk are in<br />
charge: touchscreen menus and lots and lots of white. Yet<br />
the imaginative drinks are they main focus, and though<br />
they don’t arrive quickly, but they do come with a free show;<br />
creating molecular foam and juicing figs takes some elbow<br />
grease, and conversations are punctuated by the loud,<br />
rhythmic thwack of ice against the cocktail shaker. The<br />
recipes require the kind of precision normally reserved for<br />
brain surgery, and unexpected ingredients like dry ice and<br />
cranberry caviar can often mean your “drink” requires a<br />
spoon. Expensive, but worth every zloty - try the Gin Basil<br />
Smash or Tequila Rucola Smash. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 11:00 - 01:00. AGW<br />
Plan B F-4, Al. Wyzwolenia 18, tel. (+48) 503 11 61 54,<br />
www.planbe.pl. Walk up a curving stairwell to enter Plan<br />
B, a venue where the ceilings are high and the windows are<br />
low - so low you’ll have to crouch for views of pl. Zbawiciela.<br />
Plan B has seen minimal investment, with a design that must<br />
have set the owner back the price of a packet of sausages;<br />
decor is limited to little more than tatty posters, white tiles<br />
and sofas with springs practically sticking out of them. But<br />
this place has become astonishingly popular, especially with<br />
students and other sorts who look like they’ve just finished<br />
band practice. Don’t be surprised to find the party spilling<br />
outside, with gangs of drinkers chucking frisbees and sharing<br />
sneaky puffs on Moroccan cigarettes. Drunkenness is<br />
rife and encouraged, and it’s only fair to note this place has<br />
become a bit of a magnet for expat lads looking to tap up<br />
impressionable Polish girls. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat<br />
11:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 - 02:00. AEXW<br />
Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra H-1, ul. Jagiellońska 22,<br />
tel. (+48) 501 04 84 71, www.po2stronielustra.com.<br />
This unique Praga bar used to be much like the district itself:<br />
artsy, mysterious and a little bit junky. But after recently moving<br />
locations, the bar has left behind the thick layers of grime<br />
and history at their former Ząbkowska location and simply<br />
brought their strongest suit - an endless collection of craft<br />
beers - along with them to ul. Jagiellońska. Sure, it feels a little<br />
weird to not stick to the tables and to use a toilet that has<br />
an actual seat attached, but we’re happy to exchange that<br />
“charm” for a more grown up (and cleaner!) headquarters.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. AEXW<br />
Sheesha Lounge B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 3, tel. (+48)<br />
22 828 25 25, www.sheesha.pl. Not your average <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
hangout, Sheesha forgoes the mainstream dance hits<br />
favoured by the competition to bring a slice of the orient<br />
to your doorstep. The DJs play jangly rhythms as an occasional<br />
belly dancer floats past tables filled with sheeshasmoking<br />
Varsovians. The crowd, which seems to span all age<br />
groups, is reliably fun and relaxed. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00,<br />
Fri 10:00 - 04:00, Sat 16:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 - 02:00.<br />
PAEBXW<br />
Sketch C-3, ul. Foksal 19, tel. (+48) 602 76 27 64,<br />
www.sketch.pl. Sketch is something of a <strong>Warsaw</strong> classic.<br />
Set in a sterile white hall the bar’s major lure is the beer,<br />
namely the best selection you’ll find in the city. There are<br />
about 130 to pick from, and these range from gourmet<br />
Belgian to banana stuff from Ghana. The heavy import duty<br />
has been directly handed down to the customer, with some<br />
bottles selling for a wincing 25zł, though you’ll find these<br />
prices offset by calming lounge sounds and soothing lights<br />
that glow from vertical columns. A smashing night, and one<br />
which doesn’t end until you’re exactly that. QOpen 12:00 -<br />
01:00. PAXW<br />
Skwer - filia Centrum Artystycznego Fabryka<br />
Trzciny B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 60a, tel.<br />
(+48) 508 36 58 49, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. An offshoot<br />
of Fabryka Trzciny, though a darn sight easier to get to than its<br />
daddy bar/club. Situated inside a weird concrete bungle this<br />
construction looks more like a car park than bar, but don’t let<br />
that stop you from further investigations. Concerts are frequent,<br />
and frequently excellent, as are the book signings and<br />
vernissages. The location splat in the middle of Krakowskie<br />
Przedmieście means there’s no shortage of lookers to train<br />
your eyes on. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. PAUEGW<br />
SomePlace Else C-4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.warszawa.<br />
someplace-else.pl. Someplace Else is an expat legend,<br />
and the comfortable open-plan space and industrial bar are<br />
a great setting for the mix of live sports and music that can<br />
be found here almost every night of the week. Still boasting<br />
one of the best bar menus in the city - we’re fans of the Orient<br />
Express burger - it’s easy to come for dinner and stay into the<br />
night to sample from the long list of extravagant cocktails<br />
(flaming Lamborghini, anyone?). QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEGW<br />
Śródmiejska B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 66 (corner of ul.<br />
Wilcza), tel. (+48) 22 629 25 76. Śródmiejska is the kind<br />
of bar/hang out spot that we wandered past a million times<br />
before going in. Why? Because we knew we’d be hooked.<br />
Located in the middle of busy Marszałkowska, Śródmiejska<br />
has so much space that you can catch the latest local warbler<br />
in one room, nosh on their international menu in another<br />
(Sri Lankan dishes!) or suck down drinks in the scattering of<br />
chairs out front. The vibe is relaxed (so relaxed, in fact, that<br />
you can expect to pay different prices for the same drink…).<br />
An excellent spot to linger well into the night QOpen 09:00<br />
- 01:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 13:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 -<br />
01:00. AEXW<br />
Metro Jazz Bar & Bistro F-3, ul. Marszałkowska<br />
99a (Metropol Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 325 31 06,<br />
www.hotelmetropol.com.pl. Bathed in a soothing<br />
forest green glow this is a classic jazz bar where<br />
aesthetic shortcomings are brushed over with a pot<br />
of atmosphere. Take to one of the swivelly barside<br />
stools to knock back the barman’s creations while<br />
taking in nightly jazz performances that fluctuate<br />
hugely in both style and volume. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
PAUEGW<br />
Nu Jazz Zone C-4, ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. (+48)<br />
22 621 89 89, www.jazzone.pl. A cavernous bar<br />
decorated sparingly with slick furnishings and attractive<br />
staff. Good cocktails, served by proficient<br />
bartenders, and a strong fusion menu. The occasional<br />
jazz performances can be excellent, and the basement<br />
bar features comfortable seating and a big screen for<br />
sports action. Neither loud nor lively, expect the tables<br />
to be occupied by couples with single roses in front<br />
of them. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
PAEGW<br />
Piękna Bistro F/G-4, ul. Piękna 20, tel. (+48) 22<br />
627 41 51, www.jazzzone.pl. Bright, modern, airy.<br />
Piękna Bistro is everything you don’t expect of a jazz<br />
bar, with a smart-casual set of customers picking at food<br />
inside an attractive interior that could have come from a<br />
catalogue. Recent renovations have created a modern<br />
and inviting space to see live performances which are<br />
consistently excellent, and better still, never loud enough<br />
to completely sink conversation. Smokers will be happy<br />
to note they can slip into the Espresso space to have<br />
a puff. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
PAUIEGW<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
Jazz
66 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 67<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Tortilla Factory F-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel. (+48)<br />
22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. This longestablished<br />
Tex-Mex bar is one of the go-to hangouts for ex-pats,<br />
thanks in part to the Irish owner Niall, though discerning the various<br />
accents becomes harder with every margarita and Corona<br />
that goes missing. Once you’re inside there’s something for<br />
everyone: Sky Sports on the TV, live music on weekends, a decent<br />
pint of Murphys and 10zl tacos if you’re lucky enough to show up<br />
on a Thursday. The global crowd is easy to mix with and accepting<br />
of outsiders, especially when they buy the tequila shots. Added<br />
bonus: the separate smoking room will save you a trip outside.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PAEXW<br />
Warszawa Powiśle G-2, ul. Kruczkowskiego 3b, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 474 40 84, www.powisle.blog.pl. Set in a former<br />
ticket hall this PRL-era concrete rotunda proved one of the<br />
hits of last summer, and a bit of a gathering ground for those<br />
enjoying post-Luztro fix-me-ups. <strong>In</strong>teriors here are all cheap<br />
and chipboard - tables included - and while it looks tatty and<br />
torn it’s become a HQ of sorts for hardcore clubbers hiding<br />
their horror behind reflective specs (which explains why the<br />
neighbours want it shut down). How to find it? Walk down the<br />
platform on Powiśle Station, then hang a right down the stairs.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. PAUGW<br />
W Oparach Absurdu (<strong>In</strong> The Mists of Absurdity) H-1,<br />
ul. Ząbkowska 6, tel. (+48) 660 78 03 19, www.oparyabsurdu.pl.<br />
This bar could have a weird-off with fellow Praga bar Po<br />
Drugiej Stronie Lustra that would easily end in a draw. Both favour<br />
twinkle lights, flea market knick-knacks and crap furniture, though<br />
Absurdu has embraced colour, and bright murals, to set it apart.<br />
Absurdu is spread over numerous rickety levels and populated by<br />
local bohemians who crave live music and strong drinks. A small<br />
menu of snacks and Polish staples (yep, pierogis) are available<br />
to line your stomach. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. PAUEXW<br />
Znajomi Znajomych C-4, ul. Wilcza 58a, tel. (+48)<br />
22 628 20 61, www.znajomiznajomych.waw.pl. With two<br />
levels and a strange arrangement of rooms newcomer Zna Zna<br />
can feel as if you’re wandering through an M.C. Escher drawing.<br />
Here’s a primer: the first floor features a large smoking room<br />
and several adjacent rooms with seating, and the main floor has<br />
a bar with DJ/dance floor - we saw a keytar being played - and<br />
more labyrinthine seating areas. The pile of taxis outside should<br />
tell you this is currently one of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s favourite places, with<br />
huddles of hipsters and interpretive dancers sharing space<br />
and spilling drinks together. There’s even a respectable menu<br />
of pasta and pizza that’s available into the weekend wee hours<br />
(weekdays 1 a.m., weekends 3 a.m.) to soak up the booze.<br />
Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat<br />
16:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PAEXW<br />
Clubs<br />
Clubs in <strong>Warsaw</strong> range from sedate to sinful, and we cover<br />
the full gamut here. A night spent clubbing means you’ll most<br />
likely greet the dawn because, unlike the closing times you<br />
might be used to, Polish clubs stay open until the sun comes<br />
up. Expect a cover charge at most venues that can range<br />
from 5-20zl depending on events, and note that toilet paper is<br />
often a luxury that seem to universally run out around 10 p.m.<br />
For the specifics of what’s on daily visit warsaw.inyourpocket.<br />
com and check out our Events Calendar, which givies you a<br />
breakdown of all the evening’s club nights with one click.<br />
1500m2 do wynajęcia H-3, ul. Solec 18/20, tel. (+48)<br />
22 628 84 12, www.1500m2.com. Enormous, as in 1,500<br />
square metres enormous, though strictly speaking still very<br />
much the whispered meeting point of those <strong>In</strong> The Know.<br />
There’s plenty of abandoned industrial space in <strong>Warsaw</strong>, and<br />
places like this are finally utilizing it. It’s hard to define 1500m2,<br />
and depending on the event you’ll find it functioning as either<br />
a bar, club, concert venue or gallery - sometimes all four. The<br />
interiors have seen it all, from a Valentine’s Fetish Ball to the<br />
Prodigy Afterparty; this warehouse style ‘thing’ has hosted<br />
some of the edgiest nights in town, so no wonder then some<br />
scene people are touting it as the hippest haunt in the city. A<br />
newly added restaurant called Bistro sto900 offers a place to<br />
refuel as well. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,<br />
Thu, Sun. Open during the week when special events are being<br />
held. Check Facebook for details. AEXW<br />
Bank Club B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 14, tel. (+48) 22 468<br />
85 10, www.bankclub.pl. Oh yes. A hit from day one this is<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>’s latest bar and club of choice. We are no experts in<br />
running a club (if we were we would own a chain of them) but<br />
we know that whatever that certain something is which clubs<br />
have to posses to be good, then Bank has it in abundance.<br />
Smooth sounds, tastefully elegant decor and refreshingly<br />
little kitsch. It is also a lovely building. With a well-aired smoking<br />
section and drinks at a reasonable price it’s not only for<br />
bankers, either. Q Open Thu, Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 04:00.<br />
PAUEXW<br />
Bollywood Lounge B-3, ul. Przeskok 2, tel. (+48) 22<br />
827 02 83, www.bollywoodlounge.pl. A weird and horrid<br />
location, you’ll find Bollywood sitting inside a nasty pre-fab<br />
building overlooking kebab shops and potholed roads but<br />
don’t be put off because while it promises little it delivers<br />
plenty. Growing in popularity as the night moves on, it’s all<br />
sequinned eastern drapes, scented water pipes and lowslung<br />
armchairs. The staff with a few exceptions are <strong>In</strong>dian,<br />
friendly and clearly know how to throw a party and the mix of<br />
crowd sees Sikhs partying away alongside Polish blondies to<br />
the sounds of Bhangra and disco. Poland is often perceived<br />
to be not particularly cosmopolitan and rather conservative.<br />
Bollywood kicks that perception right out of the park. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat<br />
14:00 - 04:00. PAXW<br />
Club Capitol B-2, ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. (+48)<br />
608 08 96 71, www.clubcapitol.pl. Global recession<br />
you say? Nobody told the chaps at Capitol, a jaw dropper<br />
of a venue whose opening confirms north <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s status<br />
as the official party part of the city. Filled with post-socialist<br />
bling this venue is immense, and has seen the contents of<br />
an oligarch’s deposit box thrown into impressive interiors.<br />
A pneumatic set of breasts should be enough to guarantee<br />
female entry, while boys should consider adding an arrogant<br />
lope to their step and some designer horses to their clothes.<br />
And the promoters haven’t been slouches either, having so<br />
far secured the appearance of several club circuit legends.<br />
There’s no set opening hours, though it’s safe enough to<br />
assume that if it’s a weekend it’s open. Q Open Fri, Sat<br />
only 21:30 - 05:00. PAXW<br />
Club Mirage B-4, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance from ul. Emilii<br />
Plater), tel. (+48) 22 620 14 54, www.clubmirage.pl.<br />
A totally unique experience, this is a club like no other in<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>. Not because it’s anything particularly special, but<br />
because it is set in the bowels of the monstrous Palace of<br />
Culture. Descend the stairs through the entrance facing the<br />
central railway station into a mass of writhing young bodies<br />
getting down around the centrepiece fountain. Once you’re<br />
done there, retreat to the long bar and lounge area to relax<br />
before heading back out into the surprisingly unpretentious<br />
party crowd. The coat check looked after by moustachioed<br />
men in their 50s gives a small hint of the days when this<br />
place must have been frequented by the great and not so<br />
good of communist Poland. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00, Wed, Thu<br />
21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAEX<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
68 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 69<br />
Dekada E-4, ul. Grójecka 19/25, tel. (+48) 22 823 55<br />
58, www.dekada.pl. Adventures and amorous encounters<br />
come guaranteed in this slice of <strong>Warsaw</strong> folklore, a direct<br />
result of the people found inside. Here it’s all 007 Barbie<br />
bombshells soaking up attention off expats twice their age,<br />
an interesting mix that combines for colourful nights. Watch<br />
the pantomime while sitting inside a 1950s tram, or else take<br />
your chances on a dance floor that packs out most nights -<br />
the musical menu changes daily, with weekends tending to<br />
err towards disco and chart sounds. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. May be open on<br />
select Tuesdays if concerts booked. PAEX<br />
de lite club C-4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.deliteclub.com.<br />
Hot-pink newcomer De Lite already has a crush of<br />
visitors wedging themselves on the dance floor and around<br />
the backlit bar. A giant screen projects images on the wall<br />
of the dance floor as DJs spin, while the elite can retreat to<br />
a plush VIP area filled with couches and pillows for winding<br />
down away from the masses. And yes, that’s an umbrella in<br />
your cocktail. The quintessential club experience in <strong>Warsaw</strong>.<br />
Q Open Wed 22:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 22:00 - 07:00 only.<br />
PAXW<br />
Fabryka Trzciny ul. Otwocka 14 (Praga Północ), tel.<br />
(+48) 22 619 05 13, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. Housed in a<br />
battered factory building this spot has the scummy charisma<br />
of mid-90s Berlin. Brick walls, dials and pipes have been<br />
left exposed, with leather sofas and red emergency lamps<br />
sprinkled at random intervals. Edgy artwork and experimental<br />
sounds complete the concoction. Not open daily, but you’ll<br />
usually find special events going off each weekend and this<br />
has emerged as one of the most popular haunts for private<br />
fuctions, catwalk shows and launch parties. Q Open during<br />
events only. PAUEGW<br />
Foksal XVIII C-3, ul. Foksal 18, tel. (+48) 885 17 08 85.<br />
The star-studded summer opening was our first clue that Foksal<br />
XVIII aims to take the <strong>Warsaw</strong> club scene by storm. The interior<br />
mixes swank (chandeliers) with urban (exposed brick) with the<br />
inexplicable (cardboard animal mounts!) in this large basement<br />
space. DJs keep the dance floor - accented with a massive disco<br />
ball - packed for a crowd that is both classier and better dressed<br />
than your typical booty-shaking slopfest. So visitors should take<br />
note: To mingle with the A-list you’ll need to bring your A game.<br />
Q Open Wed, Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 04:00. PAX<br />
Opera B-2, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22 828 70 75,<br />
www.operaclub.pl. A no-expense spared design masterpiece<br />
found in the basement of the National Opera. Descend<br />
the curving stairwell and all you’ll see is boys with attitude,<br />
dressed in popped collared polo shirts, and a heart-stopping<br />
spread of gazelle-like girls. If you were wondering where the<br />
good lookers went, you’ve found the answer. Tread down wood<br />
boards and through vaulted tunnels to reach the main arena,<br />
checking out the numerous side rooms on the way; this place<br />
was formerly known as Bedroom, and that’s because of the<br />
alcoves found shooting off in every direction. Each comes<br />
decorated with poufs, loungers and Persian drapes, and serve<br />
as a great spot to enjoy illicit activities. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00.<br />
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PAEXW<br />
Organza B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. (+48) 513 13<br />
77 44, www.kluborganza.pl. After a 10 year streak on the<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> scene Organza had to close down and move, but<br />
that short hiatus has not caused it to lose its footing. The<br />
new black-and-orange bi-level space is regularly packed, and<br />
apparently no one here thinks disco is dead as the regular<br />
Wednesday “disco fever” dance parties attest. If hen parties<br />
and students don’t make you cringe then neither will Organza.<br />
QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue. PAX<br />
Platinium Club B-2, ul. Fredry 6, tel. (+48) 22 596 46<br />
66, www.platiniumclub.pl. Status is everything in <strong>Warsaw</strong>,<br />
and you’ll be awarded plenty of it if you can wheedle past<br />
the gatekeepers at Platinium. Door policy is stringent here,<br />
mercilessly culling the beasts from the beautiful, thus ensuring<br />
everyone inside is either rich or beautiful - sometimes<br />
both. Regarded as <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s finest club this place, set inside<br />
a historic former bank, has seen plenty of money spent, with<br />
a design that includes marble columns, chandeliers and glowing<br />
floors. This is champagne living <strong>Warsaw</strong>-style, meaning<br />
hot sounds from the DJ decks and a riotous party that goes<br />
way, way late. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 08:00.<br />
Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAUEX<br />
Room 13 Club & Lounge B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 13, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 827 60 44, www.room13.pl. <strong>Warsaw</strong> has had<br />
the benefit of a club explosion (clubsplosion?) lately, and after<br />
visiting venue upon venue Room 13 is the one that stands<br />
out. The interior has a striking fallen angel theme, with pillowy<br />
clouds painted across the ceilings in the multiple rooms,<br />
and giant images of what Victoria’s Secret has taught us<br />
an ‘angel’ looks like. And if your idea of heaven is two bars,<br />
VIP space, a wide array of music and lots of high heels, then<br />
consider this your HQ. QOpen 22:13 - 05:00. Closed Mon,<br />
Tue, Wed, Sun. PAGW<br />
The Eve Music Club B-3, Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. (+48)<br />
604 14 54 62, www.theeve.pl. Run by the same team<br />
behind Platinium, so expect a strict door cull to separate<br />
the peasants from the players. Aimed at the rich and mighty<br />
this design masterstroke scores points for a varied music<br />
policy, and looks like flavour of the month among a playboy<br />
set convinced they’re destined for celebrity - the VIP room<br />
is like a scene from Caligula, with gleeful expats shooting<br />
champagne over each other. Q Open Thu, Fri, Sat only<br />
21:00 - 06:00. PAUEXW<br />
Watch Me B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. (+48) 22 828<br />
34 04, www.watchmeclub.pl. If we knew the exact recipe<br />
for what makes one club door busting and the next a dead<br />
zone we’d sell it by the bucketful. And our first client would likely<br />
be Watch Me, a newcomer that hasn’t quite found its legs (or<br />
its clientele) yet. The multi-level space isn’t necessarily doing<br />
anything wrong - there’s a large dance space, capable barmen,<br />
all the neon lights you could ask for - but so far it just hasn’t<br />
caught on. Q Open Fri, Sat only 20:00 - 04:00. PAXW<br />
Microbreweries<br />
Bierhalle D-1, Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), tel. (+48)<br />
601 67 79 62, www.bierhalle.pl. An industrial motif<br />
prevails in Bierhalle, with giant tailor-made brewing vats,<br />
brickwork and pipes springing from every corner. The beer<br />
LET‘S FALL TOGETHER<br />
IN ROOM13<br />
Mazowiecka 13<br />
+48 22 827 60 44<br />
info@ room13.pl<br />
www.room13.pl<br />
www.facebook.com/room13club<br />
WED-SAT: 22.13<br />
is brewed on-site, and presented in frothy steins by wenches<br />
squeezed into peasant bodices. Our favourite is the pils, and<br />
it tastes even better when you ask for a dash of caramel to<br />
be added to your brew. Domestic sad cases rejoice, bottles,<br />
barrels even, of beer are available for takeaway. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. PAUGW<br />
BrowArmia B-3, ul. Królewska 1, tel. (+48) 22 826<br />
54 55, www.browarmia.pl. <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s other microbrewery<br />
tends to live in the shadow of the more famous Bierhalle,<br />
and though it fails to share the lively atmosphere of its rival<br />
Browarmia is by no means second best. There’s a decent<br />
design here, with all the requisite pipes, dials and tanks on<br />
display, as well as a good menu that trounces the competition.<br />
More importantly the beer is top standard and all,<br />
and best imbibed on a seasonal terrace looking onto the<br />
revamped Krakowskie Przedmiescie. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
PAEXW<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
70 ADULT ENTERTAINMENT<br />
Vice advice<br />
Those who visited <strong>Warsaw</strong> in the nineties and around<br />
the turn of the century may have lingering memories of a<br />
seriously mucky city. With an estimated 1,500 brothels<br />
in operation the city established a reputation as a destination<br />
for hairy palmed perverts. Then along came the<br />
late Lech Kaczynski as Mayor of <strong>Warsaw</strong> who became a<br />
one man anti-sleaze machine driven by a zealous desire<br />
to restore <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s lost innocence. While he never fully<br />
succeeded in cleansing <strong>Warsaw</strong> of the brothels and the<br />
flyers, Kaczynski’s crusade had a striking impact.<br />
One of the results of this campaign is that <strong>Warsaw</strong> now<br />
offers a collection of seemingly legitimate and, on the<br />
whole, fairly presentable ‘Gentlemen’s Clubs. Brothels<br />
still exist but not in the huge numbers that they once<br />
did. Although there is no specific red light district you’ll<br />
find a small concentration of brothels around al. Jerozolimskie,<br />
ul. Wilcza and ul. Nowogrodzka. They’re simple<br />
enough to find, just look for the flyers pinned to car<br />
windscreens or clogging up the gutters. Don’t expect<br />
English to be spoken, and don’t reckon on being greeted<br />
by the sirens pictured on the aforementioned flyers.<br />
Now, in the old days we’d use this space to fire some<br />
recommendations your way. Legal factors now make<br />
that a foolhardy path to pursue, so instead we advise<br />
prospective punters to visit the Polish forums on www.<br />
internationalsexguide.com, where the message boards<br />
are alive with the latest despatches from the frontline, as<br />
well as pics and maps from the more committed posters.<br />
For independent girls check websites such as www.<br />
odloty.pl and www.sexatlas.pl, where you’ll find a choice<br />
of literally hundreds upon hundreds of feisty Polish girls<br />
promising a lively time. <strong>Your</strong> third choice is to simply put<br />
your faith in a taxi driver. More often than not this will involve<br />
being driven to the suburbs and to whichever brothel<br />
is giving the cabbie a kickback. Prices in these ‘high end’<br />
establishments will tend to start at 200zl, though don’t<br />
be tricked into buying champers for the lady unless you’re<br />
sure you can afford it. Similarly, greenhorns should watch<br />
their wallet in strip clubs - bills easily spiral, even more so<br />
when the drinks start being poured.<br />
Scumbag, fly-by-night brothels still exist; STDs are a<br />
fact of the trade, and don’t think for one jiffy you’re<br />
beyond reproach. Do not assume either that the Barbie<br />
of your choice is in on the game because she enjoys rolling<br />
around with aging baldies. Poland has an appalling<br />
record where human trafficking is concerned, and it’s<br />
safe to assume a fair few ladies staffing such venues<br />
have been coerced into their ‘career’. Finally, the venues<br />
listed here are generally central and established but<br />
please be warned that in recent months we’ve had a<br />
report of 8,000zl being spent willingly in one club listed<br />
here and another of 8,000 sterling being spent unwillingly<br />
in one which is not listed here. <strong>In</strong> the second case<br />
half of the money was retrieved from the bank because<br />
of ‘payment irregularities’ but be on your guard.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Coyote Bar & Night Club B-3, ul. Mazowiecka<br />
6/8, tel. (+48) 505 46 90 56, www.coyotebar.eu. On<br />
the new Street of Sin that is ul. Mazowiecka, Coyote Club<br />
is an adult entertainment establishment of the ‘girls in<br />
their underwear which leaves little to the imagination will<br />
dance for you’ variety. Drinks (the beers at least) are not<br />
as outrageously priced as in other similar places and we<br />
have to say that the girls we bumped into when we popped<br />
in for a quick one were sirens. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00, Sun<br />
20:00 - 03:00. PAUXW<br />
Kokomo B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 53 (entrance<br />
from ul.Pankiewicza 4), tel. (+48) 22 356 20 16,<br />
www.kokomo.com.pl. One of the most central strip<br />
bars in <strong>Warsaw</strong>, though don’t let that stop you taking<br />
advantage of the Kokomo limo service. From there on<br />
in it’s your eyes that will be doing all the work as they<br />
pinball around their sockets focusing on the troupe of<br />
pin-up bunnies. Two rooms to choose from, as well as<br />
a well-stocked drink bar serving all the concoctions<br />
necessary to complete your preview of heaven. QOpen<br />
21:00 - 04:00. PAG<br />
Libido Gentleman’s Club B-3, ul. Kredytowa 9, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 828 23 07, www.libidoklub.pl. Newcomer Libido<br />
was designed with the customer in mind: the large onyx<br />
bar doubles as a runway for strippers, who sashay past<br />
gaping customers (watch your drinks!) on their way to one<br />
of three mid-bar poles. Head to the basement if you prefer<br />
your dances more intimate, where closed-off booths let<br />
the dancers get up close and personal for 50zl. Everything<br />
from the coat check to the bathrooms is above board, a nice<br />
change for those who like their entertainment without the<br />
usual seedy undertones. Q Open 21:00 - 05:00. Closed<br />
Sun. PAX<br />
New Orleans Gentlemen’s Club B-3, ul. Zgoda<br />
11, tel. (+48) 22 826 48 31, www.neworleans.pl.<br />
From Monday to Thursday you’ll find the girls kitted out in<br />
evening dress, with a higher-class of punter choosing the<br />
girl of his dreams before sitting down to a good, intelligent<br />
natter. Of course, this being a strip club, the removal of<br />
the aforementioned evening dress is also an available option.<br />
At weekends you’ll find New Orleans reverting to the<br />
more standard formula, with girls tottering around in next<br />
to nothing, and offering the usual hip-grinding action. Now<br />
added, a ‘night restaurant’ with an ‘erotic’ menu featuring<br />
oysters, lobster and Argie steak. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00.<br />
PAXW<br />
Sofia F-4, ul. Polna 13, tel. (+48) 22 224 25 24, www.<br />
klubsofia.pl. A legend in nineties and noughties <strong>Warsaw</strong>,<br />
there was a time no self-respecting male could leave <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
without having first visited Sofia. Those days may have gone<br />
and so it seemed had Sofia. But it appears not with the opening<br />
of this place, three years after the original closed, just<br />
down from Pl. Zbawiciela which boasts a modern spacious<br />
club area and a host of minimally dressed women. <strong>In</strong> the wild<br />
days of nineties <strong>Warsaw</strong> this was known in local parlance as<br />
The Bulgarian Embassy. It’ll be interesting to see if it lives<br />
up to the reputation it built then. Q Open 20:00 - 05:00.<br />
Closed Sun. PAUX<br />
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ADULT ENTERTAINMENT<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
71
72 HISTORY<br />
WHAT HISTORY TO SEE<br />
Early fortified settlements are<br />
believed to have existed in what is<br />
now the district of Brodńo as far<br />
back as the 9 th century, and while<br />
historians struggle to conclusively<br />
agree as to exactly when <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
was founded most appear to accept<br />
that the first recorded mention of<br />
the city can be traced to 1313.<br />
Things started looking up for the<br />
city in 1413, when the ruling Dukes<br />
decided to shift the capital of<br />
Mazovia from Czersk to <strong>Warsaw</strong>. Over the next century it<br />
gathered importance as a trading point, and was incorporated<br />
into the Kingdom of Poland in 1526. The town was expanding<br />
in both status and stature, though nothing was to prepare it<br />
for the bombshell that arrived in 1569. The Union of Lublin<br />
amalgamated Poland with Lithuania, and as such the decision<br />
was taken to centralize parliament and move it from Kraków<br />
to <strong>Warsaw</strong>. Twenty seven years later, in 1596, King Zygmunt<br />
III Vasa decided to follow suit and shifted his Royal Court north<br />
as well, thereby making <strong>Warsaw</strong> capital of this newly-formed<br />
commonwealth. Of course, <strong>Warsaw</strong> then was a different<br />
creature to the <strong>Warsaw</strong> of now. The old town area, secured by<br />
its walls, consisted of 169 houses, while another 204 homes<br />
stood just outside this protective boundary. <strong>In</strong> total just 14,000<br />
people lived in the newborn capital.<br />
Testing times lay ahead. Between 1665 and 1668 <strong>Warsaw</strong> was<br />
ransacked three times, and if it the natives thought that was bad<br />
you should have seen their faces in 1700; the Great Northern War<br />
kicked off when an anti-Swedish alliance comprising of Russia,<br />
Poland and Denmark launched the opening attack. The Swedes<br />
weren’t having any of it, and by 1702 their counter-attack had<br />
landed them at the gates of <strong>Warsaw</strong>. Over the next few years<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> was passed back and forth like a bag of sweets, sustaining<br />
heavy economic and physical damage in the process. The war,<br />
a right epic scrap if ever there was, drew to a close in 1721 and<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> was finally left to pick up the pieces and move forward.<br />
The Collegium Nobilium, a posh boarding school for the<br />
landed classes, was opened in 1740, and this was promptly<br />
followed by Poland’s first library seven years later. This age<br />
of enlightenment promised much for Poland, a fact not lost<br />
on her three neighbours: Prussia, Russia and Austria. Little<br />
Poland was clearly getting too big for her boots, so the three<br />
acted swiftly by imposing the First Petition of Poland in 1772,<br />
a move which essentially robbed the country of a third of<br />
its territory and population. Nonetheless, her three bullying<br />
neighbours clearly hadn’t counted on Stanisław August<br />
Poniatowski, the country’s last king, and arguably her finest.<br />
It was under his leadership the Constitution of May 3 rd was<br />
ratified in 1791. This landmark code was the first of its kind<br />
in Europe (and only second in the world after the USA), with<br />
reforms focused on handing more power and freedom to<br />
the general populace. Poniatowski was hailed as almost<br />
visionary in his outlook, however his ideas once more stirred<br />
his neighbours into action. This time round both Prussia and<br />
Russia moved to weaken Poland in The Second Partition of<br />
Poland (1793), snatching away 308,000 sq/km of territory,<br />
and reducing her to just 223,000 sq/m.<br />
Provoked by this latest aggression the Poles fought back<br />
launching ‘The Peasant Uprising’ of 1794. Led by Tadeusz<br />
Kościuszko the insurgents scored a notable victory at Racławicka,<br />
but eventually superior numbers told and the rebellion ended in<br />
surrender. The following year Russia, Prussia and Austria joined<br />
together to carve what remained of Poland between them.<br />
Napoleon offered the capital brief respite, and when his<br />
armies marched eastwards in 1807 he created a semiindependent<br />
Duchy of <strong>Warsaw</strong>. His failings on the battlefields<br />
of Russia led to defeat, and within eight years Russian forces<br />
had pushed the Frenchman back and regained <strong>Warsaw</strong> as<br />
their own; Poland had effectively been wiped off the map.<br />
Discontent with Russian rule was to come to a boil twice in the<br />
following decades: first in the form of the <strong>November</strong> <strong>In</strong>surrection<br />
of 1831, and then again with the January Uprising of 1863. Both<br />
rebellions were brutally crushed, and saw more patriots packed<br />
off to serve penance in Siberia. Strangely, however, it was these<br />
dark years that saw <strong>Warsaw</strong> blossom. Under the auspice of<br />
Russian-born Mayor Sokrates Starynkiewicz the city developed<br />
at lightning pace, and by the time of his death in 1902 the town<br />
had acquired a modern sewage system, street-lighting, paved<br />
streets and over 2,500 newly planted trees.<br />
Still, resentment over foreign rule continued to linger, and it<br />
was only the outbreak of World War One that promised hope.<br />
The collapse of the Eastern Front saw the last Russian troops<br />
leave in 1915, though these were immediately replaced<br />
with German uniforms. Only when Germany signed the<br />
armistice in 1918 was Poland finally freed from the shackles<br />
of occupation. Arriving overnight in a sealed wagon, Jósef<br />
Piłsudski, a patriot who had been imprisoned in Magdeburg,<br />
reached <strong>Warsaw</strong> on <strong>November</strong> 11 to assume leadership of<br />
the nation. By the time of his death in 1935 this national<br />
hero witnessed the introduction of the złoty, a failed coup<br />
and the assassination of President Narutowicz. Even allowing<br />
for these, nothing came close to the defeat of the Red Army<br />
during the Polish-Soviet War of 1919-1921, a triumph which<br />
not just guaranteed Poland’s short-term future, but Europe’s.<br />
The twenties and thirties saw <strong>Warsaw</strong> flourish into a<br />
confident, successful city, alas, we all know what was to come.<br />
September 1 saw Nazi Germany start WWII with their attack<br />
on the Westerplatte Peninsula in north Poland. By morning<br />
Luftwaffe squadrons were firebombing <strong>Warsaw</strong>, and in spite<br />
of dogged resistance the capital finally fell on September 30 th .<br />
The fate of the Jewish population, and the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Uprising, is<br />
documented in detail elsewhere in the guide, so fast forward<br />
instead to January 17, 1945. Liberation of sorts had arrived,<br />
unfortunately for the Poles it meant spending much of the<br />
following five decades under Soviet hegemony. <strong>In</strong> the wave<br />
of Stalinist terror that followed businesses found themselves<br />
nationalized, and political and religious leaders imprisoned.<br />
Stalin died in 1953, but his legacy didn’t. The <strong>Warsaw</strong> Pact, a<br />
military treaty between eight communist states, was signed<br />
in 1955 the same year Stalin’s parting gift to the city the<br />
Palace of Culture was completed. A year on Pozńan exploded<br />
like a powder keg in what turned out to be the first street<br />
demonstrations against communism. The communists<br />
reacted in time honoured fashion, with their fists, and the<br />
final score stood at 76 dead (unofficial estimates suggest<br />
far, far more) and a city defeated.<br />
<strong>In</strong> a bid to appease the people several hardliners were<br />
dismissed and Władysław Gomułka was appointed as Poland’s<br />
premier. Limited social reforms and a small-scale lifting of<br />
press censorship followed, and a political thaw set in. This<br />
veneer of social happiness was shattered in 1970 when new<br />
protests broke out, this time in Gdańsk. Forty four died when<br />
the army suppressed the demonstrations, and for a while<br />
things appeared to settle down. Edward Gierek came in to<br />
replace Gomułka as First Secretary, and he set about turning<br />
the country round. Living standards increased, and for a time<br />
Gierek carried the tag of miracle worker. He wasn’t. Gierek had<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
built a house of cards, propping up the Polish economy with<br />
half-mad policies based on acquiring mountains of foreign<br />
debt. The oil crisis of 1973 saw the creditors come calling and<br />
by 1976 price increases were in the pipeline. A fresh batch of<br />
riots broke out across the nation, and military might was once<br />
more relied upon to bring the people to heel.<br />
The public was starting to get restless, but their protests<br />
needed focus and direction. That came in 1978 when Karol<br />
Wojtyła, born in Wadowice close to Kraków, was appointed<br />
Pope in 1978. Wojtyła, who had adopted the name John Paul<br />
II, returned to Poland the following year, and his whirlwind tour<br />
of the country is seen by many as the pivotal moment when<br />
the nation gathered courage to defy the system. ‘Do not be<br />
afraid’, spoke the pontiff to the masses, ‘change the image<br />
of the land… this land’. It was a veiled message, but a clear<br />
one, and from there on the fuse was lit.<br />
<strong>In</strong> the form of Pope John Paul II the Poles had found a spiritual<br />
direction, what was lacking was a physical one. That came<br />
in the surprising shape of Lech Wałęsa, an unemployed<br />
electrician with an extravagant moustache and a podgy look.<br />
Within the space of a second he went from no-one to someone<br />
and bulldozed Polish politics into the 21 st century. The year<br />
was 1980 and workers in the Lenin Shipyards in Gdańsk were<br />
fuming at the dismissal of a female crane operator. Talk and<br />
promise of strike was rife, and the atmosphere heated. On the<br />
spur of the moment Wałęsa climbed a gate and addressed<br />
those below. <strong>In</strong>advertently he had made himself the public<br />
face of Solidarność (Solidarity), a trade union that would<br />
prove the slingshot that felled communism. This time round<br />
the protestors had learned from their bloody mistakes and<br />
rather than confronting the tanks simply locked themselves<br />
in the shipyards. Leaders representing workers from across<br />
the country joined, and hammered out a list of 21 demands<br />
including the legalisation of trade unions. Days of tension<br />
followed, with tanks and militia standing menacingly outside,<br />
and for a moment Poland stood on a precipice.<br />
Amazingly it was the government that backed down, on<br />
August 31 it signed an agreement meeting the workers<br />
demands. The first peaceful victory over communism had<br />
been won.<br />
This wasn’t to last – Solidarity continued to press for further<br />
reform, and with the Soviet Union looking likely to invade the<br />
Polish President General Jaruzelski declared Martial Law<br />
on December 13, 1981. Though Solidarity was officially<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
dissolved, and its leaders imprisoned, it continued to operate<br />
underground. When Father Jerzy Popieluszko, Solidarity’s<br />
chaplain, was abducted and murdered by the secret police<br />
over a million people attended his funeral.<br />
Renewed labour strikes and a faltering economy forced<br />
Jaruzelski into initiating talks with opposition figures in 1988,<br />
and the following year Solidarity was once again granted<br />
legal status. Soviet leader Gorbachev had made it clear he<br />
wouldn’t intervene in Polish politics, and when Jaruzelski was<br />
pressured into holding partly free elections Solidarity swept<br />
the board with Wałęsa leading from the front. The regime<br />
collapsed and in 1990 Wałęsa was elected the first president<br />
of post-communist Poland. Shock capitalist tactics were used<br />
to rotate Poland into a free market economy, and while this<br />
left several losers the nation emerged stronger than before.<br />
Acceptance into the European Union in 2004 was proof of<br />
this, and Poland’s rise illustrated by the decision to award it<br />
co-responsibility for the Euro 2012 Football Championships.<br />
Today Poland, with <strong>Warsaw</strong> as its figurehead, stands as<br />
an exemplary member of the EU, and notably was the one<br />
European nation to avoid recession in the recent global crisis.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>’s Historical Timeline<br />
1313: First written mention of <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
1413: The regional capital of Mazovia is moved from<br />
Czersk to <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
1596: King Zygmunt III Vasa moves the Royal Court from<br />
Kraków to <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
1665-1668: The old town comes repeatedly under<br />
siege, only just about surviving<br />
1700: The Swedes invade Poland, capturing <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
two years later and installing Stanisław Leszczyński as<br />
a puppet king in 1704.<br />
1764: Stanisław August Poniatowski is crowned King<br />
1772: Poland is partitioned for the first time<br />
1791: The historic May 3 Constitution is signed, inadvertently<br />
prompting the second partition of Poland<br />
two years later<br />
1795: Third Partition of Poland<br />
1807: A semi-independent Duchy of <strong>Warsaw</strong> is created<br />
by Napoleon. It’s dissolved eight years later following<br />
France’s military disasters and <strong>Warsaw</strong> falls once more<br />
under Russian control.<br />
1830: The <strong>November</strong> Uprising breaks out<br />
1863: One more anti-Russian rising breaks out, this one<br />
know as the January Uprising<br />
1915: The Russians leave <strong>Warsaw</strong> in disarray but are<br />
immediately replaced with Germans. <strong>In</strong>dependence<br />
takes another three years<br />
1920: The Red Army is defeated at the gates of <strong>Warsaw</strong>,<br />
saving post-war Europe from communism<br />
1939: Nazi Germany invades Poland.<br />
1943: Jews remaining in the Ghetto rise against the<br />
Nazis. Their insurgency is crushed<br />
1944: The people of <strong>Warsaw</strong> launch the <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
Uprising, but are defeated following 63 days of resistance<br />
1945: The Red Army liberates <strong>Warsaw</strong> but Poland is<br />
forced to kowtow to Moscow for the next few decades<br />
1989: The communist regime crumbles<br />
2004: Poland enters the European Union<br />
2010: Poland is plunged into national mourning after a<br />
plane carrying President Lech Kaczyński and all on board<br />
crashed while on its way to a memorial service in Katyń.<br />
2012: Poland successfully co-hosts the Euro 2012<br />
football tournament with neighbouring Ukraine (though<br />
the Polish team didn’t make it out of the group stage).<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
73
ESSENTIAL WARSAW<br />
WHAT TO SEE<br />
74 75<br />
Sightseeing and <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
don’t usually go together,<br />
and the blame for that falls<br />
on her citizens. While some<br />
cities may have been happy<br />
to wait out Nazi occupation,<br />
the <strong>Warsaw</strong> locals<br />
were having none of that.<br />
The ensuing uprising which<br />
took place in 1944 would<br />
become both the most glorious<br />
and tragic episode in<br />
the city’s history. Doomed<br />
from the outset the <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
Uprising enraged Hitler, and<br />
his retribution proved swift<br />
and brutal. <strong>Warsaw</strong> was to<br />
be wiped from the face of the map, and his cronies set about<br />
their orders with a zealous fury. While Red Army tanks stood<br />
stoically stationed across the river the Nazis set about blasting<br />
western <strong>Warsaw</strong> from the map. Anything deemed of cultural<br />
importance was dynamited, and whole districts were set on<br />
fire. By the time ‘liberation’ arrived, over 90% of the city lay in<br />
total ruin. ‘I have seen many towns destroyed, but nowhere<br />
have I been faced with such destruction,’ commented a visibly<br />
moved Eisenhower on a later visit to the city. That the city still<br />
stands at all is tribute enough to the indefatigable spirit of the<br />
Polish capital.<br />
Nowhere bore the brunt of the Nazi malice more than the Old<br />
Town, and it’s here that most tourists will choose to start<br />
their tour of <strong>Warsaw</strong>. Using paintings and photographs as an<br />
architectural blueprint the Old Town was painstakingly rebuilt,<br />
the reconstruction of the historic centre only completed as late<br />
as 1962. The areas inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage<br />
List speaks volumes for the effort involved, and nothing is more<br />
striking than the colourful, wonky-looking burgher houses that<br />
frame the Old Town Square (B1/2, Rynek Starego Miasto).<br />
The historic centre is also home to numerous churches, including<br />
the striking St John’s Cathedral (B-2, ul. Świetojańska<br />
8) whose details number the gothic artworks of Wit Stwosz<br />
as well as the tombs of knights, regents and eminent citizens.<br />
Marking the edge of old town is the Royal Castle (B-2, pl.<br />
Zamkowy 4), reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incredible<br />
cost between 1971 and 1984. The prescribed tour will<br />
take you through the Kings’ apartments and chambers,<br />
heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments.<br />
Although you’ll find plenty of photographic opportunities in<br />
and amongst the tight cobbled alleyways save a few shots for<br />
the viewing platform at the top of St Anne’s Church (B-2, ul.<br />
Krakowskie Przedmieśćie), and don’t leave the area without<br />
first exploring the lesser known delights of the New Town.<br />
Joanna Kortas<br />
Paul Kowalow wikipedia.pl<br />
There is far more to <strong>Warsaw</strong> than its old town however,<br />
and one museum that demands to be visited is the<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Uprising Museum (D-3, ul. Przyokopowa 28). It’s<br />
here, inside Poland’s best museum, that you’ll learn about<br />
the city’s doomed rebellion against the Nazis in 1944.<br />
Packed with interactive displays, photographs, video<br />
footage and miscellaneous exhibits this is guaranteed to<br />
leave a deep mark on all visitors, and will go a long way<br />
in explaining why <strong>Warsaw</strong> is far from the architectural<br />
pearl it once was.<br />
Although the Nazis flattened<br />
the Jewish Ghetto<br />
after a heroic uprising<br />
in 1943 there are still<br />
traces of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s Jewish<br />
past, including a remaining<br />
piece of the Ghetto<br />
wall (E-3, ul. Sienna 55),<br />
a memorial where the<br />
loading ramp to Treblinka<br />
once stood (E-1, Umschlagplatz)<br />
as well as<br />
one of the largest Jewish<br />
cemeteries in Europe (D-1,<br />
ul. Okopowa 49/51). Most<br />
recently, a trail marking the Ghetto boundaries has been<br />
unveiled, it’s course interspersed with 21 dual-language<br />
plaques at sights of specific interest.<br />
The city’s defining landmark however has to be the fearsome<br />
Palace of Culture and Science (B-4, pl. Defilad 1). Looking<br />
like something you’d see in Ghostbusters the building towers<br />
at just over 231 metres in height - making it the tallest<br />
and largest structure in Poland. Commissioned by Stalin as<br />
a ‘gift from the Soviet people’, it was completed in 1955,<br />
and built using an estimated 40 million bricks the crowning<br />
glory is the viewing platform on the 30th floor. While it’s<br />
the most obvious, it’s not the only example of the Socialist<br />
Realist style, and visitors have plenty to marvel at from the<br />
everyman residential units of Muranow and pl. Konsytucji,<br />
to the stern looking block that once housed Communist HQ<br />
(ul. Nowy Swiat 6).<br />
Across the river the Praga suburb is undergoing a long due<br />
revival, and its growing reputation as an artistic haven is<br />
evident in the cafes that have sprung up along the pre-war<br />
Zabkowska street. But while the Praga area is breathing<br />
once more, it still looks shabby. For a glimpse of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s<br />
Imperial beauty head instead to her palaces, in particular<br />
Łazienki Park and Palace (G-4, ul. Agrykola 1) and Wilanów<br />
Palace - dubbed ‘The Polish Versailles’ - (ul. Stanisława<br />
Kostki-Potockiego 10/16).<br />
Churches<br />
Many Poles still see a direct connection between the church<br />
and patriotism, explained much by the fact that during centuries<br />
of oppression by neighbouring powers, the church<br />
helped the nation of Poland to survive by giving Poles an<br />
identity. Although on the wane in post-communist Poland,<br />
the church still plays an important role in many people’s<br />
lives and churches reflect the importance of religion in the<br />
history of the Polish nation.<br />
Holy Cross Church (Kościół Św. Krzyża) C-3, ul.<br />
Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10,<br />
www.swkrzyz.pl. No Chopinologist can leave <strong>Warsaw</strong> without<br />
first visiting the final resting place of his heart. Added to<br />
the church in 1882 his heart was sealed in an urn and then<br />
placed behind a tablet bearing his likeness specially carved<br />
by Leonardo Marconi.<br />
Although this serves as the church’s key draw there’s several<br />
other features of note to tempt the visitor inside this<br />
astonishing Baroque creation. The church’s history originally<br />
dates from the 15th century when a small wooden<br />
chapel stood on the site. Destroyed during the Swedish<br />
Deluge of the 1650s, the church was rebuilt in 1682,<br />
with the cornerstone being ceremoniously laid by Prince<br />
Jakub, son of King Jan III Sobieski. Designed by the royal<br />
architect, Jakub Bellotti, it was completed in 1696 though<br />
over time would see numerous additions to its shape.<br />
The most notable of these would come in the following<br />
century when Józef Fontana added two Baroque crowns<br />
to the square-cut twin towers. His son Jakub would later<br />
extensively refurbish the façade with Jan Jerzy Plersch<br />
adding elaborate decorative touches to the interior.<br />
Throughout history the church has played its role in <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s<br />
glories and calamities. It was here that the last Polish King<br />
forged the Order of the Knights of St Stanislaus, and it was<br />
directly outside in 1861 that Russian troops brutally suppressed<br />
a patriotic protest. It was this bloodbath that lit the<br />
touchpaper for the January Uprising of that year. Devastated<br />
during the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Uprising in 1944 the church was painstakingly<br />
rebuilt at the end of the war and is today a feast for the<br />
heart, eyes and soul. The organ (built in Salzburg in 1925) is<br />
the largest in <strong>Warsaw</strong>, and other points of note include an<br />
urn with the remains of Nobel Prize winning author Władysław<br />
Reymont, and tablets honouring various Polish icons including<br />
poet Juliusz Słowacki and WWII hero Władysław Sikorski.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00. No visiting during<br />
mass please.<br />
Jesuit Church (Kościół Jezuitów) B-2, ul.<br />
Świętojańska 10, tel. (+48) 22 831 16 75, www.<br />
laskawa.pl. Built at the behest of King Zygmunt III Waza’s<br />
confessor, Piotr Skarga, this lovely little Renaissance<br />
church was constructed between 1609 and 1626 for<br />
the city’s Jesuit community. Having had something of a<br />
varied and colourful history to say the least, it suffered<br />
at the hands of the Swedes in the latter half of the 17th<br />
century, who looted it of its entire contents, and it even<br />
spent time as a storehouse during the Partitions. Also<br />
known as the Holy Mother of Grace Church after the city’s<br />
patron saint, the church was returned to the Jesuits at the<br />
end of WWI only to be destroyed by the Germans in 1944.<br />
Rebuilt between 1948 and 1957, the church has a few<br />
remaining original interior parts - of particular interest is<br />
the 17th-century picture of the Holy Mother herself. The<br />
crypt, not open to visitors, contains the remains of Prince<br />
Karol Ferdynand Waza and Maciej Kazimierz Sarbiewski<br />
(1595-1640), the Jesuit priest, poet and court preacher<br />
to King Władysław IV. QOpen 09:30 - 19:00. No visiting<br />
during mass please.<br />
Adventure <strong>Warsaw</strong> ul. Mińska 25 (Praga<br />
Południe), tel. (+48) 606 22 55 25, www.adventurewarsaw.com.<br />
Tours of <strong>Warsaw</strong> including the popular<br />
“off the beaten path” tour which delves into Socialism,<br />
communism and of course vodka, all while cruising in<br />
a vintage Nysa 522. Group, private and walking tours<br />
also available from this crew of young, enthusiastic<br />
local guides, who will even take you out your stag party<br />
or host a pub crawl.<br />
City Sightseeing <strong>Warsaw</strong>, tel. (+48) 793 97<br />
33 56, www.city-sightseeing.pl. If <strong>Warsaw</strong> needed<br />
proof that it has finally arrived as a tourist destination<br />
surely the launch of City Sightseeing is it. Tours by way<br />
of a familiar red, double-decker bus let you take in sights<br />
such as the Palace of Culture, the Royal Castle, Łazienki<br />
Park and the Wybrzeże Gdańskie. Buy one ticket and hop<br />
on and off the bus as you please. The bus departs from<br />
the Palace of Culture on the Emilii Plater side every hour<br />
between 11:00 and 15:00 Mon-Fri and 11:00 - 17:00<br />
Sat and Sun. Commentary available in a multitude of<br />
languages including English, Polish and Japanese. See<br />
their website for tour details, routes and timetables. Q<br />
Tickets 24hr 60zł, 48hr 80zł.<br />
Eastern Station <strong>Warsaw</strong>, tel. (+48) 513 60 55<br />
18, www.easternstation.eu. <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s first bike tour<br />
company gets it right with six different 3 hour unique<br />
routes that take visitors to places that promise great<br />
photo opportunities and streets that stray from the<br />
usual Old Town tourist traps. The Wild Vistula trip gets<br />
you up close to the river that splits the city while the<br />
Cold War HQ trip will have you climbing through a three<br />
story underground Atomic Command Headquarters.<br />
Trips are by request only. Those who prefer a walking<br />
tour can meet at King Sigismund’s Column daily at<br />
11:00 for a 2-hour wander through Old Town (free, but<br />
be sure to tip).<br />
The Connoisseur Tour, tel. (+48) 600 97<br />
26 28, www.monopolpraski.pl. If you consider<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> synonymous with vodka, this is the tour for<br />
you. Meet at Sigismund’s Column for a chance to<br />
learn about where this nectar comes from and how<br />
its made. The tour includes sightseeing in Old Town,<br />
Praga and at the former Koneser vodka factory as<br />
well as samples of Polish vodka and appetisers. The<br />
tour lasts around 3.5 hours and can be organised in<br />
German, Italian, Russian or English at a cost of 140zl<br />
per person. Adults only.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> City-Tour, tel. (+48) 500 03 34 14, www.<br />
city-tour.com.pl. Bus tours of <strong>Warsaw</strong> on a yellow<br />
double-decker bus. The tours start from the bus stop<br />
on ul. Królewska and run at 09:50 and 11:50. The route<br />
takes about 1.5 hours to cover and covers all the major<br />
sites in the city including Old Town, Jewish <strong>Warsaw</strong>,<br />
WWII, Palace of Culture and Lazienki Park. Be sure to<br />
note this special promotion: one-day tickets are valid for<br />
two days and two-day tickets are valid for three days! Q<br />
Single journey ticket 40/34zł. One day ticket 60/54 zł.<br />
Two day ticket 80/72zł. Family tickets (2 adults and 2<br />
children) 205zl/day, 274zl/2days; 130zl single journey;<br />
(2 adults and 3 children 254zl/day, 340zl 2 days; 160zl<br />
single journey). One and two day tickets offer hop on/<br />
hop off option.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
Tours
76 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE 77<br />
Krakowskie Przedmieście...<br />
Visits to Poland’s most prestigious street, Krakowskie<br />
Przedmieście, start by the Royal Castle, next to the<br />
sabre rattling statue of King Sigismund. A popular<br />
meeting point with lovers and buskers alike we’d<br />
suggest you start your tour by taking the Socialist<br />
Realist era escalator. From there head to St Anne’s a<br />
neo-classical effort that survived the war but came<br />
within a whisker of collapse when work began on<br />
the W-Z tunnel running beneath it. The 1949 tunnel<br />
project caused several landslides and it took a team<br />
of 400 workers two weeks to shore the foundations<br />
and stabilise the soil. But the real hero of the hour<br />
was Romauld Cebertowicz, a professor who invented<br />
a way of solidifying the soil by way of directing electric<br />
currents into it. The interiors of St Anne’s house<br />
numerous intricate details, but the real reason for<br />
visiting is the ‘taras widokowy’, a viewing platform on<br />
top of the next door tower.<br />
Next, make a beeline for the Mickiewicz monument<br />
that honours Poland’s best loved bard. This statue was<br />
erected in 1898, the centenary of his birth. Unveiled<br />
at a time of Imperial Russian repression the very<br />
creation of his likeness was regarded as something of<br />
a bombshell, and over 12,000 patriotic Poles turned<br />
up to cheer the ribbon cutting. Standing just behind<br />
is one of the <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s biggest mysteries. Everyone<br />
knows the pink building with that great big chunk<br />
missing from its facade, but what the devil is it? Built<br />
in 1784 to serve as a traveller’s inn this mysterious<br />
structure is actually student digs, as well as home<br />
to a branch of the WBK bank and a music shop. The<br />
17th century Camelite Church next door is one of the<br />
original examples of the classicist style to be found<br />
in Poland, and comes topped off with a sea green orb<br />
representing the world.<br />
Next up it’s the Presidential Palace, that fenced-off<br />
building guarded by stone lions and stern soldiers.<br />
Construction on it started in 1643 at the behest of<br />
Stanislaw Koniecpolski, though was only completed<br />
after his death. It passed into the hands various aristocratic<br />
families and in the 18th century became the<br />
famed venue for lavish society banquets. None were<br />
more celebrated than the party held to celebrate the<br />
coronation of Stanislaw II August Poniatowski in 1789;<br />
over two million zloty was spent on entertaining 4,000<br />
guests, a sum which must have been unheard of in<br />
those days. But it was money well spent; Poniatowski<br />
would prove to be one of Poland’s finest monarchs, and<br />
the constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on these very<br />
grounds, is recognized as Europe’s first.<br />
When Poland regained independence in 1918 the<br />
reconstructed building was commandeered to serve<br />
as home to the Prime Minister and his Council of<br />
Ministers. When Herman Goering visited in 1937 he<br />
spent so much time pottering around admiring the<br />
architectural details he was late for his meeting with<br />
the Polish Foreign Minister. It saw more momentous<br />
events in 1955, this time when the <strong>Warsaw</strong> pact – the<br />
Soviet Union’s answer to NATO – was ratified within<br />
its walls. <strong>In</strong> 1989 round table talks between the communists<br />
and opposition were held here, paving the way<br />
for political freedom, and in 1994 it was appointed as<br />
the official home of the Polish president.<br />
Military Cathedral (Katedra Polowa Wojska<br />
Polskiego) B-2, ul. Długa 13/15, tel. (+48) 22 687<br />
77 02, www.katedrapolowa.pl. Comprised of both the St.<br />
Francis of Assisi Church and monastery and built between<br />
1662 and 1663 by the Piarist friars, the extraordinary<br />
Military Cathedral, also known as the Church of Our Lady<br />
Queen of the Polish Crown, is the capital’s main garrison<br />
church. Having spent time as an Orthodox Church, prison,<br />
orphanage and a depot for German soldiers during WWI the<br />
church was reconstructed based on original 17th-century<br />
drawings after independence in 1918 and became the seat<br />
of the field bishop of the Polish Army. Again rebuilt after its<br />
destruction during WWII, the church is now decorated with<br />
a peculiar mix of religious and military artefacts, including a<br />
number of large oil paintings depicting the most well known<br />
of Poland’s battles and uprisings. Q No visiting during<br />
mass please. Open by prior arrangement and for groups<br />
only. Alternatively view the interior through the bars or get<br />
in before the mass at 18:00.<br />
St. Anne’s Church (Kościół Św. Anny) B-2, ul.<br />
Krakowskie Przedmieście 68, tel. (+48) 22 826 89<br />
91, www.swanna.waw.pl. St Anne’s survived the war<br />
with a few token scratches and a collapsed roof, but what<br />
the Nazis failed to destroy was very nearly demolished by a<br />
team of incompetent builders - by 1949 the whole church<br />
threatened to come crashing to the ground. The thoughtless<br />
construction of the nearby Trasa W-Z tunnel had led to<br />
several landslides, resulting in huge cracks appearing in the<br />
floor of the church. It took a team of 400 people two weeks<br />
of tireless work to stabilise the undersoil and shore up the<br />
foundations. <strong>In</strong>triguingly, this wasn’t the first time St Anne’s<br />
had survived vicious conflict to find disaster around the<br />
corner. It escaped destruction during the war with Sweden<br />
(1650-1655) only to be gutted by fire two years later, apparently<br />
the victim of an arson attack. The classicist façade<br />
dates from 1788 and is the design of the royal architect Piotr<br />
Aigner. The interior holds even more classicist and rococo<br />
details. The viewing tower is one of the best in <strong>Warsaw</strong> and<br />
worth the 147-step climb.<br />
One other point of interest concerns a simple wooden cross<br />
you will see there. These two planks of wood became the<br />
focus of a battle that threatened to divide the country in<br />
the summer of 2010. To read the story behind that see our<br />
piece on the presidential cross. Q Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sun<br />
08:00 - 22:00. No visiting during mass.<br />
St. Benno’s Church (Kościół Św. Benona) B-1,<br />
ul. Piesza 1, tel. (+48) 22 578 70 10, www.swbenon.<br />
redemptorysci.eu. Benno’s has a wacky history. King Sigismund<br />
III was a devotee of St. Benno and invited peer priests<br />
from Bavaria to <strong>Warsaw</strong> in the 17th century. Their main aim<br />
was to support Germans living outside their home country.<br />
Ironically, in 1944, the chapel was blown to smithereens by<br />
you-know-who. Rebuilt by the Poles in 1958, it now has an<br />
interesting interior dating from 1977. Q Open during mass<br />
and by prior arrangement.<br />
St. Casimir’s Church (Kościół Benedyktynek<br />
- Sakramentek) B-1, Rynek Nowego Miasta 2, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 831 49 62, www.sakramentki.opoka.org.pl.<br />
Founded by Mary Sobieski, wife of King Jan III Sobieski, to<br />
commemorate her husband’s victory over the Turkish army<br />
at the Gates of Vienna. The baroque-style church was designed<br />
by Tylman van Gameren and was completed in 1692.<br />
<strong>In</strong> 1944 it served as a Polish field hospital, and received<br />
a direct hit from a German bomb, killing more than 1,000<br />
civilians, priests, nuns and soldiers who were inside. Today<br />
it has been fully restored and has a charred wooden cross<br />
as tribute to those who died. Q Open by prior arrangement.<br />
St. Francis Seraph Church (Kościół stygmatów<br />
Św. Franciszka Serafickiego) B-1, ul. Zakroczymska<br />
1, tel. (+48) 22 831 20 31, www.warszawa.franciszkanie.pl.<br />
Completed in 1733 this baroque masterpiece holds<br />
the remains of St Vitalis; see the glass coffin for yourself by<br />
visiting the chapel to your left. Many of the religious relics<br />
found scattered around were donated by Pope Benedict XIV<br />
in 1754, and this church is also entered in the history books as<br />
holding the first free mass in <strong>Warsaw</strong> following the flight of the<br />
Nazis. Q Open 06:00 - 20:00. No visiting during mass please.<br />
St. John the Baptist Cathedral (Bazylika Archikatedralna<br />
Św. Jana Chrzciciela) B-2, ul. Świetojańska 8,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 831 02 89, www.katedra.mkw.pl. Originally built<br />
in the 14th century, St. John’s is steeped in history. The last king of<br />
Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, was crowned and eventually<br />
buried here, and in 1791 he also declared the Constitution of<br />
May 3 inside the building. The crypt holds the bodies of Henryk<br />
Sienkiewicz (writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Poland’s first president)<br />
and various Mazovian knights, but its currently off-limits due to<br />
renovations. Other interesting details to look for include the covered<br />
walkway that links the Cathedral with the Royal Castle. It was added<br />
in 1620 as a security measure following a failed assassination<br />
attempt on King Sigismund III. As with most major landmarks, it<br />
was the scene of heavy fighting during the 1944 <strong>Warsaw</strong> Uprising<br />
and was subsequently left in a heap of ruins before being rebuilt<br />
in pseudo-gothic style. On the external wall by the main entrance<br />
are fragments of a Goliath - a remote-controlled tank used by the<br />
German army. A 17th century bell made by artisan Daniel Tym (who<br />
also made the statue of King Sigismund III atop the famed column)<br />
can now be found in the centre of ul. Kanonia (B-2). The bell itself<br />
never rang at the cathedral, but it has developed its own legend:<br />
touch the top of the bell and walk its circumference and your wish<br />
will come true. Q Open 10:00-17:30, Sun 15:00-17:30. No visiting<br />
during mass please.<br />
St. Mary’s Church (Kościół Nawiedzenia NMP) B-1,<br />
ul. Przyrynek 2, tel. (+48) 22 831 24 73, www.przyrynek.<br />
pl. Scan the horizon of the New Town and chances are you’ll<br />
find your eyes settling on the Gothic shape of the Church of the<br />
Visitation of St Mary. Built in the 15th century on the whim of a<br />
Mazovian princess this brick beauty allegedly stands on the site<br />
of an ancient pagan place of worship. Extensively remodelled<br />
over the centuries it was rebuilt true to its original form after<br />
WWII. Q Open half an hour before and during mass only.<br />
Monuments<br />
Adam Mickiewicz Monument (Pomnik Adama<br />
Mickiewicza) B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5.<br />
Patriot, poet and the man who inspired Romanticism in Poland,<br />
Mickiewicz stands out as Poland’s greatest literary figure - as<br />
well as a figure of hope during a bleak age of Russian oppression.<br />
His involvement in politics saw him exiled east in 1824 by<br />
the ruling Russians, before finally heading to western Europe in<br />
1829. A bid to return to his homeland in 1830 was thwarted at<br />
the border, and he never saw his native Poland again.<br />
Much mystery surrounds his life; his role as a national cultural<br />
icon meaning that much of the seamier side of his life has been<br />
covered up, including his involvement in strange cults and alleged<br />
womanising. To this day, even his birthplace remains a hot<br />
source of argument. Some say Nowogródek (Lithuania), others<br />
say the nearby Zaosie. A champion of freedom, he died during<br />
a cholera outbreak in Turkey, 1855, while recruiting a Polish<br />
legion to fight the Russians in the Crimea. Originally buried in<br />
Paris, Mickiewicz’s body now lies in Wawel Cathedral, Kraków.<br />
His defining masterpiece, Pan Tadeusz, is a beautifully written<br />
epic portraying Polish society in the 19th century. His statue<br />
dominates ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, and traces of bullet<br />
holes dating from WWII are still visible on the monument.<br />
...Krakowskie Przedmieście<br />
Urbanlegend<br />
Next door it’s the Le Meridien Bristol Hotel, long regarded<br />
as one of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s most exclusive hotels. Tread<br />
through the marble lobby and you’ll learn why; etched<br />
in brass by reception you’ll find the names of dozens<br />
of celebrities who’ve stayed here, including Picasso,<br />
Nixon and Dietrich. An even more interesting story<br />
can be found opposite, namely inside ul. Krakowskie<br />
Przedmieście 13. A superb bygone creation the Hotel<br />
Europejski closed its doors in 2006 following nearly 130<br />
years of service. Built on the site of a guesthouse called<br />
the Gerlach the Europejski was funded by publisher<br />
Aleksander Przezdziecki, and inspired by the designs he<br />
had seen on his world travels. Touched up by architects<br />
like Henryk Marconi it came to be known as <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s<br />
first modern hotel. The hotel, which once greeted The<br />
Rolling Stones, Robert Kennedy, Marlene Dietrich and<br />
<strong>In</strong>dira Ghandi might have closed, but its current owners<br />
have big plans. The lower floors are already occupied by<br />
trendy spots like U Kucharzy, and there’s plans afoot to<br />
develop the upper floors into luxury apartments, offices<br />
and a prestigious hotel. Heading back on yourself don’t<br />
miss a quick look in at ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście<br />
15. Now home to the Ministry of Culture and Art this is<br />
where Napoleon met his paramour Marie Walewska at<br />
a ball held in his honour.<br />
One thing that won’t have escaped your notice at this<br />
stage is the preponderance of young people, some of<br />
them carrying books, others staggering out of bars. Yep,<br />
you’ve guessed it, the university is here, its main campus<br />
lying behind the grand gateway at number 26/28. Dating<br />
from the 17th century the main building, known as Villa<br />
Regia, was remodelled and renovated several times,<br />
before finally being earmarked as the home of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s<br />
new university. Established in 1819 and opened for class<br />
a couple of years later the uni had a tough time under<br />
Russian rule. Closed in retaliation for the 1830 - 31 Uprising<br />
the university continued to operate underground,<br />
though by 1859 the Tsar had been placated enough to<br />
the extent he rubber stamped the creation of a School<br />
of Medicine. Today, with some 57,000 students on the<br />
roll call the university stands out as the largest in Poland,<br />
as well as one of the best - a title hotly contested with<br />
Kraków’s Jagiellonian Uni. Notable alumni include former<br />
Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz,<br />
award-winning hack Ryszard Kapusciński, the late president<br />
Lech Kaczyński and poet Julian Tuwim.<br />
Having failed in your attempt to get a few phone numbers<br />
from the student body cross the street making a line for<br />
the Church of the Holy Cross. Much has been written<br />
about this place, so we won’t add anything other than<br />
make sure you put it on your list of unmissables. Finally,<br />
at the end of KP, it’s Copernicus himself and his statue<br />
has also played its part in <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s recent history.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
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December 2012 - January 2013
78 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE 79<br />
Cemeteries<br />
Augsburg Lutheran Cemetery (Cmentarz<br />
ewangelicko-augsburski) D-2, ul. Młynarska<br />
54/56/58. Designed by Szymon Bogumił Zug in 1792<br />
this treasure contains the elaborate tombs of countless<br />
movers and shakers. Those interred include Samuel<br />
Bogumił Linde - author of Poland’s first dictionary - and<br />
Poland’s version of the Willie Wonka family: the Wedel’s.<br />
Highlights include a cast iron chapel dating from 1821.<br />
Calvinist Reformed Cemetery (Cmentarz<br />
ewangelicko-reformowany) D-2, ul. Żytnia 42,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 632 03 30. As well as containing the<br />
remains of writer Stefan Żeromski, this cemetery is also<br />
the resting place of the youngest victim of Pawiak Prison<br />
and the then Gestapo regime, Kaj Silversjold aged six<br />
months. Be sure to check out the Teutonic style inscriptions<br />
on some of the graves. Looming over it all is the<br />
Kronenburg mausoleum, a striking necropolis built for<br />
one of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s most famed industrialists. Q Open from<br />
08:00 till dusk; Sat, Sun from 09:00 till dusk.<br />
Italian Military Cemetery (Cmentarz Żołnierzy<br />
Włoskich) ul. Marymoncka (Bielany). Originally established<br />
in 1926 the Italian cemetery holds the bodies of<br />
868 soldiers killed on Polish territory during WWI, and a<br />
further 1,415 killed during the course of WWII. Maintained<br />
by the Italian Embassy the cemetery features an entry<br />
gate complete with legionnaire shields, and a central<br />
avenue leading to a grandiose monument.<br />
Northern Cemetery (Cmentarz Komunalny<br />
Północny) ul. Wóycickiego 14 (Bielany), tel. (+48)<br />
22 834 48 08. One of Europe’s largest cemeteries, and<br />
a relatively new addition to the city. Created in 1973 this<br />
vast graveyard contains over 135,000 graves, including<br />
those of poet Edward Stachura, German WWII casualties,<br />
and the bodies of those killed in Poland’s biggest<br />
air disaster - the 1980 LOT plane crash just outside the<br />
city limits. Q Open from 08:00 till dusk.<br />
Powązki Catholic Cemetery (Cmentarz<br />
Powązki) D-1, ul. Powązkowska 14, tel. (+48) 22<br />
838 55 25. <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s biggest, oldest and most beautiful<br />
cemetery. Famous corpses include the poet Leopold<br />
Staff, aviators Żwirko and Wigura, and Nobel prize<br />
winner Władysław Reymont. It also contains the ‘grave’<br />
of Stefan Starzyński, the mayor of <strong>Warsaw</strong> at the time<br />
of the German invasion. His body was never recovered<br />
after he was detained by the Gestapo. Vast areas of<br />
the cemetery are taken up by Home Army soldiers killed<br />
during the Uprising. QOpen 07:00 - 16:00.<br />
Soviet War Cemetery (Cmentarz Mauzoleum<br />
Żołnierzy Radzieckich) E-6, Al. Żwirki i Wigury<br />
10. Dominated by a huge needle-like monument this<br />
is one of the first <strong>Warsaw</strong> landmarks seen on the way<br />
from the airport. The towering monument features some<br />
interesting socialist reliefs depicting Red Army troops<br />
liberating Polish civilians, and the inscription reads ‘To<br />
the memory of the soldiers lost in the liberation of Poland<br />
1944-1945’. Mass graves containing the remains of<br />
20,000 soldiers flank each side of the memorial.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Uprising Cemetery (Cmentarz<br />
Powstańców Warszawy) ul. Wolska 174/176<br />
(Wola). Approximately 40,000 participants in the ‘44<br />
Uprising are buried here, their resting places marked with<br />
wood graves and red and white sashes.<br />
Charles de Gaulle Monument<br />
(Pomnik Charlesa<br />
de Gaulle’a) C-4, Rondo de<br />
Gaullea. Charles de Gaulle is<br />
the subject of one of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s<br />
newer monuments. Striding<br />
away from what was once the<br />
Commie party HQ, the monument<br />
is a gift from the French<br />
government and can be found<br />
on (C-4) Rondo de Gaulle’a.<br />
A resident of <strong>Warsaw</strong> in the<br />
1920s, de Gaulle is a bit of a<br />
hero in these parts for the role<br />
he played in The Battle of <strong>Warsaw</strong> in 1920. With Europe in<br />
turmoil following the aftermath of WWI the Red Army launched<br />
a huge military strike, aimed at enslaving the rest of Europe.<br />
The Bolsheviks expected an easy march to Paris, but the<br />
Poles has other ideas. With the Red Army just 23km from<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Marshal Piłsudski launched a deft action to split the<br />
Bolshevik forces in two and encircle them. The battle raged<br />
from August 13-August 25, 1920, with the Poles claiming a<br />
historic victory in what Woodrow Wilson went on to describe<br />
as the ‘seventh most important battle in history’. The Bolshevik<br />
forces were decimated, and Europe saved. De Gaulle<br />
fought with distinction and was awarded the highest military<br />
honour in the country, the Virtuti Militari.<br />
Cross-monument Pl.<br />
Piłsudskiego. Nine metres<br />
high and made of white granite<br />
June 6, 2009 saw the<br />
unveiling of giant cross on pl.<br />
Piłsudskiego. It was here that<br />
Pope John Paul II returned to<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> for the first time after<br />
being made pope, and it was<br />
also on this spot a candlelit vigil<br />
was held when news first broke<br />
of his death. The inscription<br />
is taken from his sermon and<br />
reads: ‘Let your spirit come down and renew the face of earth,<br />
this earth’. Unveiled by <strong>Warsaw</strong> Mayor Hanna Gronkiewicz<br />
Waltz and Archbishop Kazimierz Nycz, the towering monument<br />
was designed by Jerzy Mierzwiaka, Marek Kuciński<br />
and Natalia Wilczak.<br />
Ignacy Paderewski G-4,<br />
Park Ujazdowski. Born in<br />
Kuryłówka in 1860 Paderewski<br />
is fondly remembered as a politican,<br />
patriot and musician. Having<br />
entered the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Conservatorium<br />
at the age of 12 he worked<br />
as a piano tutor after graduation.<br />
The death of his wife, just a year<br />
after they married, spurred him<br />
to commit his life to music and in<br />
1887 he made his public debut<br />
in Vienna. His talent was obvious<br />
and his growing popularity saw<br />
Warszawa13/Wikipedia him storm both Europe and the<br />
States, not just as a pianist, but<br />
a masterful composer as well. He was based in Paris during WWI<br />
and it was during this time he became actively involved in politics,<br />
becoming spokesman for the Polish National Committee. With<br />
the end of the war he sought a return to his homeland where,<br />
having played a key role in the Wielkopolska Uprising (which saw<br />
Poznań merged into the newly reformed Polish state), he was<br />
elected Poland’s third ever prime minister. It was he who signed<br />
for Poland’s part in the 1919 Treaty of Versailles, though his fall<br />
from grace was just around the corner. Many thought he had<br />
sold Poland short and in the face of growing public discontent he<br />
resigned from office in December 1919. A short stint as Poland’s<br />
representative in the League of Nations followed before he opted<br />
to resume his musical career. Aside from being a skilled musician,<br />
the mop haired Paderewski was also a popular public speaker,<br />
known for his devastating wit. One anecdote recalls him being<br />
introduced to a polo player with the words: ‘You are both leaders<br />
in your spheres, though the spheres are very different’. Not one to<br />
miss a beat Paderewski deadpanned ‘Not so very different, you<br />
are a dear soul who plays polo, and I am a poor Pole who plays<br />
solo’. During WWII he became an eminent figure in the London<br />
based exiled Polish Parliament, though died in 1941 with the<br />
country of his birth still under occupation.<br />
Jan Kiliński Monument (Pomnik Jana Kilińskiego)<br />
B-2, ul. Podwale. A huge monument honouring Jan Kiliński,<br />
a <strong>Warsaw</strong> cobbler who became the unlikely hero of the 1794<br />
Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice, Kiliński and<br />
his troop of peasants captured the Russian Ambassador’s <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
residence; an action that ultimately led to his imprisonment<br />
in St. Petersburg. Said to embody the Polish virtues of bravery<br />
and patriotism, his statue was erected in 1936 and originally<br />
located on pl. Krasińskich. <strong>In</strong> reprisal for an attack on the Copernicus<br />
Monument, Nazi troops hid Kiliński inside the vaults<br />
of the National Museum. Within days, boy scouts had daubed<br />
the museum with the graffiti ‘People of <strong>Warsaw</strong>! I am here, Jan<br />
Kiliński.’ After the war the cobbler was returned to his rightful<br />
place, before being finally relocated to ul. Podwale in 1959.<br />
Józef Piłsudski Monument<br />
(Pomnik Józefa<br />
Piłsudskiego) F-2, Pl.<br />
Piłsudskiego. Casting a steely<br />
gaze over the square named in<br />
his honour is a gloomy looking<br />
Field Marshal Piłsudski, a man<br />
many Poles hold responsible<br />
for winning the country its independence<br />
in 1918. Regarded<br />
as a political and military hero<br />
this man did more than most to<br />
free Poland from the shackles<br />
of Russian control; his early<br />
years saw him imprisoned in Siberia after being wrongfully<br />
convicted of plotting to assassinate the Tsar, though his<br />
finest hour undoubtedly came in 1920 when he beat off<br />
the Bolshevik hordes at the gates of <strong>Warsaw</strong>, inadvertently<br />
saving a battered post-war Europe from being flooded by the<br />
rampant Soviets. Unveiled in 1995 this particular monumen<br />
is the work of Tadeusz Łodziany, and Piłsudski fans can view<br />
another such monument to the man on ul. Belweder.<br />
King Sigismund’s Column<br />
(Kolumna Króla<br />
Zygmunta) B-2, Pl. Zamkowy.<br />
Built in honour of the<br />
man who made <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
the capital of Poland, the<br />
column was erected back<br />
in 1664 and stands twenty<br />
two metres high. During the<br />
war the column collapsed<br />
under bombardment and<br />
the original now lies close<br />
to the Royal Castle (and is<br />
considered lucky to touch).<br />
The figure of Sigismund<br />
survived and the new column was proudly re-erected in 1949.<br />
Rosa Luxemburg<br />
While the name sounds like that of a soap opera character<br />
or possibly a romance novel heroine, Poland’s Rosa<br />
Luxemburg was not a fictional figure – though her story as<br />
a noted revolutionary socialist is just as dramatic. Born in<br />
the southern city of Zamość (which was then controlled<br />
by Russia) in 1871, Luxemburg was the fifth child born to a<br />
Polish Jewish family that eventually moved to the capital of<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>. There Luxemburg attended school and got her first<br />
taste of political activity by becoming involved in the left-wing<br />
Proletariat party, a short-lived socialist political party that<br />
was essentially dissolved after most of its members were<br />
executed or imprisoned around 1886. Luxemburg fled to<br />
Switzerland in 1889 to escape persecution for her beliefs and<br />
enrolled in Zurich University, where she met Leo Jogiches – a<br />
fellow student and the man who would be her romantic and<br />
political partner for the rest of her life.<br />
Together the duo founded the Social Democratic Party of<br />
the Kingdom of Poland and created a newspaper, Sprawa<br />
Robotnicza (The Worker’s Cause) to oppose the policies<br />
of the Polish Socialist Party. Luxemburg maintained the<br />
position that an independent Poland would only come about<br />
through socialist revolution, a position she held from across<br />
the border in Germany (by 1898 Luxemburg had married<br />
Gustav Lubeck in order to gain German citizenship and<br />
settled in Berlin). <strong>In</strong> Germany Luxemburg was an active<br />
participant in the Social Democratic Party of Germany (SPD)<br />
and accurately foresaw the upcoming war, condemning<br />
Germany’s militarization and writing analyses about European<br />
socio-economic issues as well as speaking publicly<br />
to workers about solidarity in the event of war.<br />
Despite Luxemburg’s efforts to unite workers into a strike<br />
against war, when the Balkans erupted in 1914 there was<br />
no such strike, and the SPD itself voted to support financing<br />
the war and refraining from strikes throughout its duration.<br />
Not one to take things lying down, Luxemburg promptly<br />
organised anti-war demonstrations and earned herself<br />
a year in prison for “inciting to disobedience against the<br />
authorities’ law and order.” Shortly thereafter Luxemburg<br />
and likeminded friends, including Karl Liebknecht, founded<br />
the Spartacus League which generated anti-war leaflets<br />
and continued to encourage workers to strike against the<br />
war. Those efforts landed Luxemburg back in prison once<br />
again, this time for a 2.5 year stretch beginning in 1916.<br />
Upon her release in <strong>November</strong> 1918 Luxemburg and<br />
Liebknecht immediately regrouped the Spartacus League<br />
and created the Red Flag newspaper to continue pressing<br />
their ideas – which now included amnesty for political<br />
prisoners and an end to capital punishment. The following<br />
month saw the duo found the Communist Party of Germany<br />
amidst the country’s post-war revolution, though<br />
the revolution’s second wave would prove deadly for both<br />
Luxemburg and Liebknecht. While Luxemburg herself opposed<br />
the revolution’s violent grab at power, the Red Flag<br />
backed the rebels and both Luxemburg and Liebknecht<br />
were seized, questioned and summarily executed as a<br />
result. Luxemburg’s corpse was thrown into the Landwehr<br />
Canal, where it went undiscovered for four months.<br />
Despite her untimely death Luxemburg left a vast legacy<br />
of ideas and writings, with the term “Luxemburgism” even<br />
used to describe a specific revolutionary theory within<br />
Marxism that is based on her work. And while there are<br />
currently no monuments or memorials to the revolutionary<br />
in Poland, Berlin sports a U-Bahn station named in<br />
her honour (Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz) and a memorial in<br />
the city’s Tiergarten marking the spot where her body<br />
was tossed in the canal.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
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80 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE 81<br />
Kościuszko Monument<br />
Tadeusz Kościuszko Monument A/B-3, Pl. Za<br />
Żelazną Bramą. History produces few men like Tadeusz<br />
Kościuszko (1746-1817). Kościuszko’s highest ideal was<br />
freedom, and he used his own to try and secure it for all<br />
those less fortunate. <strong>In</strong> one country - Poland - he failed and<br />
is remembered as the greatest hero who ever walked the<br />
land. <strong>In</strong> another country - America - he succeeded, and yet<br />
has been almost completely forgotten. A monument to the<br />
man was unveiled in <strong>November</strong> 2010 in the presence of<br />
the Polish President and the US Ambassador. The monument<br />
is an exact copy of one in Washington by sculptor<br />
Antoni Popiel given to Americans on behalf of the Polish<br />
nation. At its unveiling outside of the White House in 1910<br />
the promise was made to erect a copy in Poland if ever<br />
the country regained its independence.<br />
The man himself was educated in <strong>Warsaw</strong> and Paris during<br />
which time Poland was partitioned for the first time in<br />
1772. Kościuszko found himself attracted to the American<br />
fight for independence and arrived in Philadelphia aged 30.<br />
Upon arrival he read the Declaration of <strong>In</strong>dependence and<br />
found himself so inspired and in concert with its ideology<br />
that he determined to meet the man who wrote it, Thomas<br />
Jefferson. The two men later began a lifelong friendship<br />
which became so binding that Kościuszko made Jefferson<br />
the executor of his will. Jefferson was to call Kościuszko<br />
“the purest son of liberty among you all that I have ever<br />
known, and of that liberty which is to go to all, not to the<br />
few or the rich alone.”<br />
It was as a colonel in the engineering corps that Kościuszko<br />
distinguished himself and it was his choice of Bemis Heights<br />
as the place to engage the British that was to become the<br />
decisive turning point of the northern campaign - the Battle<br />
of Saratoga in October 1777. The victory at Saratoga won<br />
the northern campaign and the alliance of the French as<br />
Louis XVI officially recognised America as an independent<br />
country. Kosciuszko was then charged with fortifying<br />
West Point, New York, where he built an impenetrable<br />
fortress that would later become America’s premier military<br />
academy. Rewarded with citizenship, the rank of Brigadier<br />
General and land near Columbus, Ohio, at the end of<br />
hostilities, Kościuszko found himself instead drawn back<br />
to Poland whose aggressive neighbours continued to<br />
threaten its sovereignty.<br />
Having first freed the serfs on his own estate back in<br />
Poland, Kościuszko once again returned to the military.<br />
On May 3, 1791 the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth<br />
created the first constitution in modern Europe (second<br />
in the world after America), which enacted widespread<br />
reforms and four days later the Russian army crossed<br />
the border triggering the Polish-Russian War of 1792.<br />
Kościuszko again distinguished himself in battle and<br />
became regarded as Poland’s leading military strategist<br />
having never been defeated. However the neighbouring<br />
powers further reduced the power and size of Poland<br />
through the Second Partition of Poland (January 21,<br />
1793) leaving Kościuszko to resolve that the Poles were<br />
going to have to drive their oppressors out and to regain<br />
their independence.<br />
What followed came to be known as the Kościuszko Uprising.<br />
Kościuszko, using his experience of the American<br />
war of <strong>In</strong>dependence, led his ill-equipped peasant army<br />
to victory over the Russian army at Racławice. The<br />
ultimate defeat of Poland resulted in the Third Partition<br />
of Poland (October 24th, 1795) and Poland disappeared<br />
from the map of Europe for the next 123 years. Read<br />
more about the man in our feature online.<br />
Nicolaus Copernicus<br />
Monument (Pomnik<br />
Mikołaja Kopernika) C-3,<br />
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście.<br />
The founder of modern astronomy.<br />
A sheltered academic,<br />
he made his observations a<br />
century before the invention<br />
of the telescope and without<br />
help or guidance. His book De<br />
Revolutionibus (1543) posited<br />
that the earth rotated on its axis<br />
once a day, travelled around the<br />
sun once a year, and that man’s<br />
place in the cosmos was peripheral. This may seem obvious<br />
today, but it was an utterly radical idea at the time.<br />
Although astronomers who propagated his ideas were burnt at<br />
the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolutionibus<br />
on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there was no turning<br />
back progress. The modern cosmological view - that our<br />
galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is this man’s legacy.<br />
The statue itself was built in 1830 and has seen its fair<br />
share of adventure. During WWII the Nazi’s placed a bronze<br />
plaque insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp - a<br />
German. <strong>In</strong> 1942, a boy scout called Alek Dawidowski ducked<br />
the guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the<br />
Nazis removed the statue, hid it in Silesia and dynamited a<br />
few other surrounding monuments for good measure. The<br />
statue was recovered in the years following the war, while<br />
Dawidowski has entered Polish folklore as a result of his<br />
bravery. The plaque at the centre of the storm is currently<br />
held in <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s History Museum.<br />
Nike B-2, near Pl. Zamkowy (Trasa W-Z scarp). Just before<br />
hitting the WZ tunnel that rumbles below the old town visitors<br />
can’t fail but see a giant cast iron statue of Nike: as in the Greek<br />
Goddess of Victory, not the shoe. Standing with sword raised<br />
aloft this noble structure is actually officially named ‘Monument<br />
to the Heroes of <strong>Warsaw</strong> 1939-1945’, and remembers the<br />
thousands of locals who fought against - and died under - Nazi<br />
rule. The statue made its debut in 1964, originally standing on<br />
pl. Teatralny. This was before there was any official memorial<br />
to the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Uprising, and as such Nike became the favoured<br />
assembly point for Polish veterans, as well as student agitators<br />
in later years. <strong>In</strong> 1999 Pl. Teatralny underwent a well-deserved<br />
facelift and the fearsome Nike found herself forklifted over to<br />
her current spot where she stands with a watchful eye over the<br />
cars and buses that gasp to-and-fro.<br />
Syrena. The mermaid is the<br />
symbol of <strong>Warsaw</strong>, and as<br />
such you’ll find her likeness on<br />
everything from buses to beer<br />
cans. The legend dates to the<br />
time of Prince Kazimierz, who<br />
allegedly got lost while on a<br />
hunting expedition in the area<br />
that is now <strong>Warsaw</strong>. Behold, a<br />
mermaid transpired from the<br />
marshland, and guided the<br />
hapless prince to safety by<br />
firing burning arrows. Firmly<br />
established as an icon of <strong>Warsaw</strong> you’ll find three mermaid<br />
statues in <strong>Warsaw</strong>, specifically on (C-1), Old Town Square,<br />
(D-2), Świętokrzyski Bridge and on (C-2/3), ul. Karowa. The<br />
original mermaid - or syrena in local parlance - stands in<br />
the Historical Museum, and was crafted from bronze by the<br />
expert hand of Ludwika Nitschowa. Modelling for her was<br />
actress Krystyna Krahelska, who was mortally injured on<br />
the first day of the Uprising while working as a field nurse.<br />
Tomb of the Unknown<br />
Soldier (Grób Nieznanego<br />
Żołnierza) B-3, Pl.<br />
Piłsudskiego. The only surviving<br />
part of the destroyed Saxon<br />
Palace. The palace was constructed<br />
during the 17th century<br />
though the tomb was not added<br />
to the complex until 1925. Eerily,<br />
the tomb was the only part of<br />
the structure to survive being<br />
dynamited by the Nazis. The<br />
ashes of unknown soldiers from WWII have been fittingly added.<br />
To those deported and murdered in the East (Pomnik<br />
Poległym i Pomordowanym na Wschodzie)<br />
E-1, intersection of Bonifraterska, Andersa and Muranowska.<br />
Dating from 1995, and designed by Maksymilian<br />
Biskupski, this monument remembers the victims of Soviet<br />
aggression and all those deported to the wastes of Siberia.<br />
Museums<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> now has an ever more impressive selection of<br />
museums dotted around and even older ones are getting<br />
facelifts to bring the visitor experience into the 21st century.<br />
There are still instances of poor or no English language explanations<br />
but these are becoming less common. Without<br />
doubt the big three places on your list should be the Uprising<br />
Museum which charts the defining period in the history of<br />
modern <strong>Warsaw</strong>; the Copernicus Science Centre which is the<br />
city’s most interactive and visitor friendly museum and the<br />
Chopin Museum which is both interesting and <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s best<br />
example of a modern museum experience. Most museums<br />
listed present a cycle of temporary exhibitions, details of<br />
which can be found in our culture and events section.<br />
Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature (Muzeum<br />
Literatury im. Adama Mickiewicza) B-1, Rynek<br />
Starego Miasta 20, tel. (+48) 22 831 76 91, www.<br />
muzeumliteratury.pl. Find out about the smart Alec who<br />
inspired Romanticism in Poland. As well as aving a number<br />
of manuscripts and historical artefacts connected with<br />
Mickiewicz, the museum also has exhibits connected with<br />
other leading Polish writers. If Polish writers are your bag be<br />
sure to check out the three other related sites that are part<br />
of the city’s Museum of Literature and celebrate historic<br />
authors: the Władysław Broniewski Museum of Literature<br />
at ul. J. Dąbrowskiego 51 (F-6), the Andrzej Struga Museum<br />
of Literature at Al. Niepodległości 210/10 (F-4) and the<br />
Maria Dąbrowska Museum of Literature at ul. Polna 40/31<br />
(F-4). Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 18:00, Sun<br />
11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat and every last Sun of the month.<br />
Admission 6/5zł, Sun free for permanent exhibit only. Y<br />
Gallery of Paintings, Sculpture and the Decorative<br />
Arts (Galeria Malarstwa, Rzeźby i Sztuki<br />
Zdobniczej) B-2, Pl. Zamkowy 4 (Royal Castle), tel.<br />
(+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek-krolewski.pl. The east<br />
wing of the Royal Castle’s main floor is now home to a permanent<br />
exhibition of various works of art that had formerly<br />
been spread throughout the property, including two works<br />
by Rembrandt: The Girl in a Picture Frame and The Scholar<br />
at the Lectern. Both paintings were part of a major donation<br />
of 37 works of art given by Countess Karolina Lanckoronska,<br />
a Polish resistance fighter and concentration camp survivor<br />
who, upon Poland’s return to independence in 1989, bequeathed<br />
her family’s art collection to the nation. The Castle<br />
has done an impressive job of staging the artworks, with<br />
muted walls and focused lighting keeping all the attention<br />
Stanislaw Poniatowski<br />
The wonderfully named<br />
Stanisław II August Poniatowski<br />
(born Count<br />
Stanisław Antoni Poniatowski)<br />
was the last<br />
King and Grand Duke<br />
of the Polish-Lithuanian<br />
Commonwealth<br />
(1764-95). His official<br />
title was, memorably,<br />
Stanisław August, by<br />
the grace of God and<br />
the will of the people<br />
King of Poland, Grand<br />
Duke of Lithuania and<br />
Duke of Ruthenia,<br />
Prussia, Masovia, Samogitia, Kiev, Volhynia,<br />
Podolia, Podlasie, Livonia, Smolensk, Severia<br />
and Chernihiv.<br />
Born in Wolcyn (which today is in Belarus) in 1732,<br />
Poniatowski first rose to prominence as an orator in the<br />
nascent Polish parliament, the Sejm. Appointed ambassador<br />
of Saxony to the court of Catherine the Great in<br />
St. Petersburg in 1755, the tall, dashing Poniatowski<br />
quickly became a regular lover of the insatiable Russian<br />
Empress. When the Polish King August II died in 1763, it<br />
was with Russian support that Poniatowski was elected<br />
king, at the age of 32.<br />
Opposed from the start by large numbers of the Polish<br />
nobility, on first appearances Poniatowski’s three<br />
decades on the throne do not look all that impressive.<br />
He was powerless to prevent the first partition of the<br />
Commonwealth in 1772 and relied heavily for much of<br />
his reign on Russian patronage.<br />
Yet he is remembered most for his championing of the<br />
1791 Polish-Lithuanian Constitution: Europe’s first and<br />
the world’s second (the United States had enacted the<br />
first, in 1788) codified constitution. It greatly reduced the<br />
power of the nobility, and introduced the idea of equality<br />
amongst all citizens of the Commonwealth: noblemen,<br />
townsfolk and peasants. Alas, the Commonwealth was<br />
about to crumble, and the constitution came far too<br />
late to save it.<br />
Appalled, the Polish nobility, under the flag of the<br />
Targowica Federation and allied with Russian nobles<br />
keen to prevent similar ideas of equality infiltrating<br />
into Russia, launched a full scale war (known, somewhat<br />
incorrectly, as the Polish-Russian War of 1791-2)<br />
on Poniatowski. Betrayed by Prussia (which had until<br />
then been a keen ally), Poniatowski was defeated in<br />
1792 and the constitution expunged from the statue<br />
book. The status quo ante-bellum was restored, and<br />
Poniatowski managed to cling on as King until 1795<br />
when the final partition of the Commonwealth forced<br />
him to abdicate. He fled to St. Petersburg, where<br />
he lived at the grace of Catherine until he died in<br />
1798. He was first buried at the Catholic Church of<br />
St. Catherine in St. Petersburg, his remains being<br />
transferred to a church at Wołczyn in 1938. <strong>In</strong> 1995,<br />
in belated recognition of his role in creating the 1791<br />
constitution, he was formally reburied at St. John’s<br />
Cathedral in <strong>Warsaw</strong>.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
82 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE 83<br />
The Citadel<br />
The Citadel (Cytadela) F-1, ul. Skazańców 25<br />
(entrance from ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie), tel. (+48)<br />
22 839 12 68, www.muzeum-niepodleglosci.pl/<br />
xpawilon. First off a tip. The entrance to the Citadel is on<br />
Wybrzeże Gdyńskie and is not that easy to find. Once you<br />
get there you discover a complex built in the wake of the<br />
1830 <strong>November</strong> <strong>In</strong>surrection, and commissioned by Tsar<br />
Nicholas I to serve as a fortress for the occupying Russian<br />
garrison - and as a political prison and execution ground.<br />
Housing as many as 16,000 troops, the main purpose of<br />
the citadel was to deter and quash any patriotic movement<br />
within the city. Of the 40,000 prisoners who have passed<br />
through its gates, familiar names include national hero Józef<br />
Piłsudski, communist agitator ‘Red’ Rosa Luxembourg and<br />
Feliks Dzierżyński - the monster who would progress to become<br />
head of the Russian secret police. As well as being a<br />
supreme example of 19th century fortress architecture, the<br />
36 hectare site has several points of interest. The labyrinth<br />
of tunnels and prison cells have been well preserved and<br />
contain numerous exhibits, including paintings, prison relics<br />
and firearms. Outside find a Nazi bunker dating from 1940,<br />
a symbolic cemetery, and The Gate of Execution. It’s here<br />
on the nearby southern hillsides of the Citadel that Polish<br />
heroes like Traugutt were executed in front of a crowd<br />
of 30,000 in 1864. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon,<br />
Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission<br />
6/4zł, Thu free.<br />
Gestapo HQ<br />
Gestapo HQ (Mauzoleum Walki i Męczeństwa)<br />
G-4, Al. Szucha 25, tel. (+48) 22 629 49 19, www.<br />
muzeumniepodleglosci.art.pl. Every bit as disturbing<br />
as Pawiak is the former Gestapo HQ, found on Al. Szucha<br />
25. Built between 1927 and 1930, the building’s original<br />
purpose was to serve as a centre for religious beliefs.<br />
<strong>In</strong> 1939 it came under control of the Nazi regime, and<br />
for the next five years became one of the most feared<br />
addresses in Poland operating, among other capacities,<br />
as a brutal interrogation centre. The imposing building,<br />
currently housing the Ministry of Education, was left<br />
untouched by the carnage of war and now also holds a<br />
small but sobering museum within its bowels. Cells, where<br />
prisoners were held prior to interrogation, have been left<br />
largely as they were. Known as ‘trams,’ Poles would be<br />
sat on wooden benches facing the wall as they awaited<br />
their fate. Forbidden to eat or sleep, they were compelled<br />
to sit motionless in darkness, sometimes for days on end.<br />
Failure to do so would lead to almost certain death. The<br />
bullet marks scarring the walls tell their own harrowing<br />
story. Although the torture cells have long since been<br />
blocked off, the English language tape that the curator<br />
plays paints a vivid and repulsive picture. Prisoners were<br />
subjected to savage beatings, attacked with dogs and<br />
electrocuted. Those who didn’t co-operate would, in some<br />
cases, be forced to watch their own families being tortured.<br />
The office where prisoners would have been ‘checked in’<br />
also remains, complete with a faded portrait of Hitler and<br />
battered issues of Wehrmacht magazine lying around.<br />
Manacles, bullwhips and other sinister instruments can<br />
also be seen stacked on the bookshelf. QOpen 10:00 -<br />
16:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance<br />
30 minutes before closing. Admission 6/4zł, Thu free,<br />
ticket also admits you to Pawiak Prison (ul. Dzielna 24/26).<br />
on the various portraits of 16th and 17th century royalty like<br />
Marie Antoinette and still life paintings of flower-filled bounties.<br />
There’s also a room devoted to porcelain, tapestries<br />
and glassware from the era. The Castle’s free admission on<br />
Sundays have seen the new gallery overrun with visitors, so<br />
serious art lovers will want to pay for the chance to wander<br />
at a less harried pace. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00<br />
- 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.<br />
Note that the gallery is closed on December 24, 25, 30, 31<br />
and January 1 and 6. Admission 20/15zł, family ticket 10zł<br />
per person. Sun free.<br />
Historical Museum of <strong>Warsaw</strong> (Muzeum Historyczne<br />
Miasta Warszawy) B-1, Rynek Starego Miasta<br />
28-42, tel. (+48) 22 635 16 25, www.mhw.pl. One of our<br />
favourite museums, The Historical Museum of <strong>Warsaw</strong> has<br />
been offline for several issues now but is easing into a return<br />
after months of renovations. What can you see so far? Just<br />
the main floor, which houses an excellent permanent exhibition<br />
about the history of <strong>Warsaw</strong> through the 17th century<br />
and plenty of archaeological materials to keep <strong>In</strong>diana Jones<br />
enthused for hours. A temporary exhibition is also open and<br />
is dedicated to WWII hero Janusz Korczak. One aspect not<br />
to be missed is the film “<strong>Warsaw</strong> Will Remember” in the<br />
museum’s cinema. The film addresses the war years from<br />
1939-1945 and the rebuilding of the city. The film is shown<br />
Tue at 11:00 and 12:00, Wed-Fri at 10:00 and 12:00, and<br />
Sat and Sun at 12:00 and 14:00 and lasts 20 minutes (in<br />
French, Italian German and Spanish by request). Tickets are<br />
10/5zł, and the entrance for the film is from Rynek Starego<br />
Miasta 40. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Tue 11:00 - 18:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5zł.<br />
Museum of <strong>In</strong>dependence (Muzeum<br />
Niepodległości) B-2, Al. Solidarności 62, tel. (+48)<br />
22 826 90 91, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.art.pl.<br />
Rather ironically, the museum that charts Poland’s struggle<br />
for freedom was home to the Lenin Museum during communist<br />
rule. Celebrating Polish patriotism, the museum covers all<br />
the key dates of Polish history, including the 1794 Kościuszko<br />
Uprising, the 19th century insurrections, Piłsudski’s return<br />
to Poland, WWII and the rise of Solidarity (though this last<br />
exhibit is currently unavailable). Among the 48,000 exhibits<br />
are objects recovered from WWII concentration camps,<br />
and some wonderful displays of Socialist Realist artwork.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed<br />
Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission<br />
6/4zł. Thu free. Y<br />
Museum of John Paul II Collection (Muzeum<br />
Kolekcji im. Jana Pawła II) A-2, Pl. Bankowy 1, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 620 27 25, www.muzeummalarstwa.pl. This<br />
is exactly the kind of overlooked museum that houses gems<br />
tourists will consider themselves lucky to stumble upon. <strong>In</strong><br />
1986 Janina and Zbigniew Carroll-Porczynski gifted the country<br />
with 400 paintings and sculptures acquired through years<br />
of dabbling in Western European art. The Carroll-Porczynskis<br />
themselves are an interesting duo - she was sent to Sibera<br />
in 1940, then matriculated to Rhodesia and England where<br />
she obtained several degrees while he was part of the Home<br />
Army and sent to Powiak Prison, Auschwitz and Buchenwald<br />
before going to England and getting a PhD. Their collection<br />
is now housed in the historical Bank of Poland building and<br />
includes a unicorn sculpture by Salvador Dali, a painting of<br />
Renoir’s son Pierre, an idyllic farm scene by Van Gogh, the<br />
head of John the Baptist by Rodin…the mind boggles at the<br />
list of noted artists housed here. The Bank’s soaring rotunda<br />
is home to over 80 self-portraits, and the first floor houses<br />
works of a more religious nature. One of the most stunning is<br />
Wojciech Gerson’s Baptism of Lithuania, a massive painting<br />
that represents Lithuania’s baptism into Christianity. A lack<br />
of surly museum maids and a well-marked route make the<br />
JPII museum even more enjoyable. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Mon. Admission 13/8zł. Y<br />
Museum of Polish People’s Movement (Muzeum<br />
Historii Polskiego Ruchu Ludowego) Al. Wilanowska<br />
204 (Mokotów), tel. (+48) 22 843 38 76, www.<br />
mhprl.pl. Set in a neo-Renaissance villa designed by<br />
Italian-born Mary Lanci the Museum of the Polish People’s<br />
Movement is an absolute must for museum diehards - just try<br />
to find any other English-speaker whose been here (though<br />
recently the museum has added some English brochures to<br />
help non-Polish visitors). As the title suggests, everything<br />
here is focused on Polish people/peasants, with the oldest<br />
exhibit being a 17th century manuscript approved by King<br />
Jan III Sobieski granting serfs a tax reduction. Most of these<br />
scrolls, documents and papers will be lost on the foreign<br />
visitor; making more sense are the printed materials, which<br />
include election posters from the interwar years, as well as<br />
decrees, ration cards and purchase vouchers supplied by the<br />
occupying Nazis during WWII. Times under communism are<br />
particularly well represented, and visitors will see a number<br />
of stirring Soviet chic posters encouraging hard work and<br />
high production. Very Socialist Paradise indeed.<br />
Patriotism plays a large part in understanding this oddity,<br />
and art fans will be pleased to find a series of paintings<br />
depicting peasants in full battle, including of course Tadeusz<br />
Kościuszko doing his bit against the Russkies. Stamps,<br />
flags, medals and caricatures, they’re all here, as well as a<br />
great little war-themed section which presents bayonets,<br />
armbands worn by peasant fighters during WWII, first aid<br />
kits and a typewriter and printing contraption used in the<br />
creation of subversive press. Q Open 08:30 - 15:30, Sat,<br />
Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 2/1zł. Thu free. Y<br />
Museum of Priest Jerzy Popiełuszko (Muzeum<br />
Błogosławionego Ks. Jerzego Popiełuszki) ul.<br />
Kardynała Stanisława Hozjusza 2 (Żoliborz), tel. (+48)<br />
22 561 00 56, www.popieluszko.net.pl. You’d probably<br />
think a museum honouring a priest doesn’t sound like much<br />
fun, and indeed this place really isn’t. However, it is a very decent<br />
detour if you happen to be in the Żoliborz area, and that’s<br />
because Father Jerzy was no ordinary priest. Popiełuszko<br />
came to national attention in the early1980s for his fierce<br />
anti-communist rhetoric, and with close ties to Radio Free<br />
Europe and Solidarity it wasn’t long till he ran afoul of the<br />
internal security services. <strong>In</strong> 1984, with Poland in political<br />
chaos, they decided to get rid of him altogether. A car accident<br />
was set up for this purpose, though Popiełuszko somehow<br />
survived unscathed. Six days later he was abducted, beaten<br />
and murdered, his corpse dumped in a reservoir. His funeral<br />
drew a crowd of 250,000 mourners and made headlines the<br />
world over. Today the basement of his former parish church<br />
has been turned into a museum to remember not just his life,<br />
but the whole struggle for post-war freedom. Newssheets<br />
printed by the underground, banners from the Solidarity<br />
strikes and pictures of the funeral are among the many items<br />
on display, as are the clothes he was wearing when he was<br />
kidnapped. Particularly poignant is a curved wall, it’s bricks<br />
inscribed with the names of martyrs ‘dealt with’ by security<br />
services between 1981 and 1989. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free.<br />
Donations welcome.<br />
Museum of Sports and Tourism (Muzeum Sportu<br />
i Turystyki) ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4 (Żoliborz), tel.<br />
(+48) 22 560 37 80, www.muzeumsportu.waw.pl. Not<br />
long back museums in Poland were largely dusty affairs with<br />
stupid hours and hawk-like curators ensuring fingers and<br />
Presidential Palace<br />
Presidential Palace C-2, ul. Krakowskie<br />
Przedmieście 46/48. If pre-war <strong>Warsaw</strong> was considered<br />
the Paris of the East then Krakowskie Przedmieśćie would<br />
have been its Champs Elysees, its importance recognized<br />
by the number of palaces, institutions, monuments and<br />
churches that line it. Of those none are more important than<br />
the Presidential Palace at number 46/48, that mysterious<br />
fenced-off building guarded by stone lions and stern looking<br />
soldiers. Construction on it started in 1643 at the behest of<br />
Stanisław Koniecpolski, though was only completed after<br />
his death. It passed into the hands of various aristocratic<br />
families and in the 18th century became famed for its banquets<br />
- the most extravagant being held to commemorate<br />
the coronation of Stanisław II August Poniatowski in 1789;<br />
over two million złoty was spent entertaining the 4,000<br />
guests. Poniatowski was to prove one of the nation’s finest<br />
monarchs and the Constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on<br />
these very grounds, is recognized as Europe’s first - and<br />
only the second in the world. A statue of Poniatowski’s<br />
brother, himself a military hero, was added to in 1965. Of its<br />
residents none were more eccentric than General Zajączek,<br />
a one legged Duke who was carried around in his armchair<br />
by a team of simpering servants. His wife, an ageless looking<br />
maiden, attributed her eternal youth to a strict diet that<br />
banned any hot meals, and a rigorous set of guidelines that<br />
included having pots of ice placed under her bed and freezing<br />
cold baths. After 1818 it became the seat of the Viceroy of<br />
the Polish Kingdom, and its halls entertained many a visiting<br />
Tsar. <strong>In</strong> 1852 calamity struck and the palace was burned to<br />
the ground. Reconstructed by Alfons Kropiwnicki the rebuilt<br />
structure served as a home to the Agricultural Society, and<br />
in 1879 Jan Matejko’s epic painting The Battle of Grunwald<br />
was put on display to an appreciative <strong>Warsaw</strong> public. Extensively<br />
remodelled throughout the course of history one of its<br />
biggest revamps came at the beginning of the 20th century<br />
when one wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel<br />
Bristol. When Poland regained its independence in 1918 it<br />
was commandeered to serve as home of the Prime Minister<br />
and his Council of Ministers. When Herman Goering visited<br />
in 1937 he spent so much time pottering around admiring<br />
the architectural details he was late for his appointment with<br />
the Polish Foreign Minister. Amazingly it survived both the<br />
1939 Siege of <strong>Warsaw</strong> and the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Uprising five years<br />
later, though that did little to stop the authorities employing<br />
Antoni Brusche and Antoni Jawornicki to give it a further<br />
facelift. It saw more momentous events in 1955, this time<br />
when the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Pact - the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO<br />
- was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as<br />
the official home of the Polish president, which is exactly<br />
why you’ll find streams of limos heading in and out, and<br />
square jawed soldiers pointing their weapons at anyone who<br />
strays too close. <strong>In</strong>terestingly enough, however, is the fact<br />
that current president Bronisław Komorowski does not live<br />
there; instead he has chosen to reside at Belweder Palace<br />
next to Łazienki Park.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
84 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE 85<br />
Palmiry<br />
Palmiry - The National Memorial Museum<br />
(Muzeum - Miejsce Pamięci Palmiry) Palmiry,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 720 81 14, www.palmiry.mhw.pl. This<br />
brand new and highly recommended museum in the<br />
forest outside <strong>Warsaw</strong> significantly ups the standard<br />
for how a small exhibit can pack a huge punch. A little<br />
history: during World War II the forests of Palmiry and<br />
Kampinos became a refuge for those fleeing the destruction<br />
in <strong>Warsaw</strong> (many Home Army soldiers regrouped<br />
in the woods). It also became the site for 21 separate<br />
mass executions performed by German soldiers against<br />
1,700 Poles and Jews, many of whom were academic and<br />
cultural figures. <strong>In</strong>side this well-organized modern block<br />
visitors will see how the Poles used the forest for training<br />
and hiding weapons, and how the Germans turned<br />
their refuge into a killing field. <strong>In</strong>formation boards clearly<br />
explain what happened in the forest (these are some of<br />
the best English translations we’ve seen) and displays<br />
include exhumed items like documents and photos, even<br />
sections of trees with ammunition still buried in their<br />
bark. A video re-enacts how German soldiers systematically<br />
marched civilians to their deaths, and the tour<br />
ends with an endless audio loop that reads the names<br />
of the victims. Outside visitors will see a giant cemetery<br />
of marked and unmarked crosses (the museum also<br />
describes the exhumation process that took place in<br />
the forest) dedicated to the victims. While the museum<br />
is mainly dedicated to what happened in the forests<br />
during World War II it also makes note of the fact that<br />
Poles have taken to these woods during the Kosciuszko<br />
Uprising in 1794, the <strong>November</strong> Uprising in 1831 and the<br />
January Uprising in 1863. Getting to the museum from<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> involves a subway trip that connects to a slightly<br />
stomach-churning 45-minute bus ride on the 800 bus,<br />
which unfortunately only runs during holidays. During the<br />
week catch the PKS bus from Warszawa Zachodnia Bus<br />
Station Mon-Sat at 11:00 (direction: Mława), and Sun at<br />
12:15 (direction: Żuromin). QOpen 10:00 - 15:00. Closed<br />
Mon. Admission free. Guided tours in English are 100zl,<br />
please book in advance.<br />
noses were kept well away from the glass. Well here’s the<br />
new face of sightseeing, a spanking new glass building that<br />
could well have been sent down from space. Cynics might<br />
say a seven floor Olympic Centre is largely wasted on the<br />
Poles, a nation which hasn’t exactly dominated the planet<br />
in the field of sport. This place is here to prove the naysayers<br />
wrong, with over 47,000 exhibits testifying to Poland’s<br />
contribution to recreation.<br />
The exhibition starts off with a passing glance at Ancient<br />
Greece, with Greco busts and murals celebrating the early<br />
pioneers of games, before moving off in a more patriotic<br />
direction and leaning towards the more Polski side of things.<br />
<strong>In</strong>cluded are old penny farthing bicycles as well as trophies<br />
and memorabilia from the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Rowing Association, apparently<br />
the oldest sports organization in town.<br />
Split into various zones (inter-war years, 70s glory years,<br />
Salt Lake City etc), this is more than just a thorough look at<br />
Polish sport, it’s the final word. Film reels and sound effects<br />
complement often hilarious pictures (mustachioed supermen<br />
from bygone times triumphantly lifting dumbbells). However<br />
this is no circus sideshow, and it soon becomes clear that<br />
the Poles have a proud and distinguished history across<br />
all fields, something apparent in the Olympic Hall of Fame<br />
which features scores of medals. Heroes such as ex Man City<br />
legend Kazimierz Deyna and ski champ Adam Małysz are all<br />
celebrated, and the vast collection even has room for a kayak<br />
once used by Pope John Paul II to row around the Mazurian<br />
Lakes. QOpen 09:15 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />
Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission<br />
10/6zł. Sat free.<br />
National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) C-4, Al.<br />
Jerozolimskie 3, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, www.mnw.<br />
art.pl. Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre interwar<br />
building, <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s National Museum has thankfully<br />
just reopened after a long renovation that has seen many<br />
changes including the renovation of the museum’s main<br />
courtyard, a major rearrangement of the permanent galleries<br />
and an impressive upcoming schedule of temporary<br />
exhibits. Considering the new overhaul this museum is a<br />
must for anyone visiting the city. Dating from 1862 and<br />
operating under its current name since 1916, there’s a<br />
Tourist information<br />
Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation (Stołeczne Biuro Turystyki)<br />
ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 194<br />
31, www.warsawtour.pl. Located in the arrivals hall of<br />
the new part of the airport, the point is small but has all<br />
the necessary guides and maps you might need including<br />
<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>s. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.<br />
Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation (Stołeczne Biuro Turystyki)<br />
B-4, Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance<br />
from ul. Emilii Plater), tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www.<br />
warsawtour.pl. This central tourist information office<br />
is inside the Palace of Culture (if you exit central station<br />
on the Złote Tarasy shopping complex side and cross<br />
over the road you’ll see it). <strong>In</strong>side you can choose from<br />
a series of guides as well as buy some souvenir books<br />
and gifts. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.<br />
Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation (Stołeczne Biuro Turystyki)<br />
B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 19/21/21a,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www.warsawtour.pl. Find<br />
this point on the Market Square of Old Town where you<br />
can pick up maps, guides, book tours and buy gifts and<br />
souvenirs. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
huge array of permanent exhibitions and antiquities. Visitors<br />
will find a wealth of delightful 15th-century Dutch and<br />
Flemish paintings in the Gallery of Old European Paintings<br />
and several galleries of Polish art from the 16th century<br />
onwards, including some of the best work by the country’s<br />
leading names in art - Chełmoński and Matejko to name a<br />
few. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Ticket prices: permanent exhibitions 15/10zł, entire museum<br />
20/15zł. Family ticket: 40zł permanent exhibits, 50zł entire<br />
museum. Tue free for permanent exhibition. Last tickets sold<br />
45 minutes before closing. Y<br />
Polish Army Museum (Muzeum Wojska Polskiego)<br />
C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. (+48) 22 629<br />
52 71, www.muzeumwp.pl. The chronological history of<br />
the Polish army is presented in a series of gloomy rooms.<br />
Suits of armour, crossbows, muskets, medals and paintings<br />
pack this museum, though the scarcity of English-language<br />
explanations mean you’ll need to hire an English-speaking<br />
guide to get the most out of the place. The room at the end<br />
is dedicated to Poland’s role in WWII, with specific emphasis<br />
on the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Uprising. Curiously, the best part of the<br />
museum is actually free of charge: the outdoor collection of<br />
20th century weaponry includes an array of tanks, missiles,<br />
aircraft and rocket launchers. Note that visitors can see the<br />
Transport Aircraft AN26 (or similar machines) for a 2zł fee.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue.<br />
Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/5zł,<br />
Sun free. Tours with audioguide 17/10zł.<br />
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/<br />
CSW) (Centrum Sztuki Współczesnej Zamek<br />
Ujazdowski) G-4, ul. Jazdów 2, tel. (+48) 22 628<br />
64 08, www.csw.art.pl. Completed in a baroque style in<br />
1730, Ujazdowski was gutted by fire during WWII. Though<br />
the original walls and foundations remained structurally<br />
sound the communist authorities decided to tear down the<br />
shell of the building with the intention of building a military<br />
theatre on the site. Common sense prevailed and the 1970s<br />
saw Ujazdowski rebuilt following its original style. Used as<br />
a military hospital in the years leading up to the war, it now<br />
has three large exhibition halls dedicated to showcasing the<br />
very best of contemporary art; find a wild mix of the good,<br />
the bad and the ugly, featuring the work of Poland’s leading<br />
contemporary artists. Worthy and undoubtedly necessary,<br />
the gallery also houses a very good bookshop and a café.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Last<br />
entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6zł,<br />
Thu free.<br />
Places of interest<br />
<strong>In</strong>visible Exhibition (Niewidzialna Wystawa) A-4,<br />
Al. Jerozolimskie 123a, tel. (+48) 504 32 44 44, www.<br />
niewidzialna.pl. Would you pay good money for an exhibition<br />
you can’t see? That’s the idea behind Niedwidzialna<br />
Wystawa (“The <strong>In</strong>visible Exhibition”), which takes visitors<br />
into the world of the sightless. The roughly hour-long tours<br />
(which we recommend you book in advance to avoid waiting)<br />
are helmed by guides who know of what they speak: all are<br />
partially or completely blind themselves. Tours begin with<br />
several stations that help get you acclimated to the challenges<br />
blind people face daily. You’ll get to tap on a Braille<br />
typewriter, test out gadgets that help the sightless do tasks<br />
in the kitchen, and try to solve simple puzzles while wearing<br />
a blindfold. Once you’re sufficiently awed by your inability to<br />
do even minor tasks the guide leads the group into the main<br />
portion of the exhibition: a pitch-black series of rooms that<br />
force you to rely on your other senses to get by (we’re not<br />
kidding about the darkness level; be prepared). You’ll visit an<br />
Royal Castle<br />
Royal Castle (Zamek Królewski) B-2, Pl.<br />
Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamekkrolewski.pl.<br />
More a palace than a castle, this building is<br />
the pride of <strong>Warsaw</strong>, reconstructed from a pile of rubble<br />
at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the<br />
furniture was donated by now deceased commie buddies<br />
such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money for<br />
rebuilding came from generous donations from exiled Poles.<br />
Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has been the<br />
residence of Polish kings, then of the president and then the<br />
seat of parliament. The prescribed tour will take you through<br />
the Kings’ apartments and chambers, heavily adorned<br />
with paintings of famous Polish moments. Maps on the<br />
wall reflect Poland’s greatest days, when it stretched from<br />
the Baltic to the Black Sea. The apartments of Józef Poniatowski<br />
have recently been opened to the public, though<br />
unfortunately none of the accompany descriptions are in<br />
English. The rooms are still a worthwhile part of the tour,<br />
if for no other reason than to see the Prince’s surprisingly<br />
cerulean bedroom and grand collection of paintings. Some<br />
of the halls are reputed to be intermittently haunted by a<br />
‘white lady.’ According to legend her appearance signals<br />
imminent disaster. The nearby chapel boasts an urn containing<br />
the heart of Polish hero and freedom fighter Tadeusz<br />
Koścuiszko. Next on the tour, the Houses of Parliament. Last<br />
but not least, the opulent Great Assembly Hall has so much<br />
gold stuck to the walls it’s hard to resist the temptation to<br />
scratch some off - just a bit, they wouldn’t notice. Behave or<br />
get accosted by vigilant wardens and enjoy the views across<br />
the river to the Praga district instead. For those interested in<br />
the Castle’s reconstruction the basement exhibition “From<br />
Destruction to Reconstruction” details the building’s resurrection<br />
after World War II rendered the place a pile of rubble.<br />
Note that this exhibition is free, so those not willing to spring<br />
for a ticket for the entire tour can still visit this section of the<br />
Castle. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed<br />
Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. The castle will<br />
be closed December 24, 25, 30 and 31 and January 1 and<br />
6. Also the apartments of Józef Poniatowski will be closed<br />
for conservation purposes from January 7-18. Admission<br />
22/15zł, family ticket 14zł per person. Sun free. Poniatowski<br />
apartments 14/7zl, family ticket 6zl per person. Sun free.<br />
Guides in English 110zł, audioguides 17/12zł. Y<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
86 WHAT TO SEE<br />
Ronald Reagan Monument<br />
Courtesy of U.S. Embassy<br />
in <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
Ronald Reagan Monument<br />
(Pomnik Ronalda<br />
Reagana) C-4,<br />
Al. Ujazdowskie. A large<br />
bronze statue of U.S. President<br />
Ronald Reagan now<br />
calls <strong>Warsaw</strong> home after<br />
an unveiling in <strong>November</strong><br />
2011 that included former<br />
Polish President and Solidarity<br />
leader Lech Wałęsa.<br />
The large 3.5-metre monument<br />
portrays Reagan, who<br />
was the 40th president of<br />
the United States and held<br />
office from 1981-1989,<br />
when he stood at a podium<br />
at Berlin’s Brandenburg gate and declared, “Mr. Gorbachev,<br />
tear down this wall,” back in 1987.<br />
So why are the Poles using their valuable bronze on the<br />
Gipper? <strong>In</strong> Poland Reagan is considered one of the 20th<br />
century’s most important leaders thanks to his longstanding<br />
opposition to communism. During Reagan’s<br />
Christmas address in 1981 he cited the persecution of<br />
the Solidarity trade union by the country’s communist<br />
government as evidence that the regime was waging<br />
“war against its own people.” That holiday season<br />
candles were put in the windows of the White House to<br />
show Reagan’s support of the Solidarity movement and<br />
the Polish people.<br />
Reagan’s continued policy of vigorously promoting<br />
democracy and condemning communism is credited<br />
as hastening the dissolution of the Soviet Union, and<br />
along with Pope John Paul II he was a strong supporter<br />
of Wałęsa’s campaign for presidency in 1990. During the<br />
unveiling ceremony Wałęsa noted his belief that without<br />
Reagan Poland wouldn’t be a free nation today. The<br />
statue, which was created by Polish sculptor Władysław<br />
Dudek, can be found across the street from the United<br />
States embassy.<br />
art gallery, a bar and take a walk ‘outside’ while the guides<br />
ask questions about what you’re encountering - you’ll be<br />
listening for the swoosh of cars before crossing the street,<br />
or feeling a sculpture to discern what kind of art it is. If you<br />
bring along change the guide will even serve you a drink in<br />
the completely dark bar. An eye-opening experience that will<br />
have you thinking heavily about what you take for granted.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Last entrance<br />
60 minutes before closing. Admission 21-25/16-22zł, family<br />
ticket 57-66zł.<br />
Saski Palace. One piece of lost <strong>Warsaw</strong> that is set to rise<br />
again is the Saski Palace, formerly located in the grounds<br />
of Saski Park (B-2). Originally the residence of the Morsztyn<br />
family the building was purchased by King Augustus II and<br />
substantially enlarged and used by both him and his successor,<br />
Augustus III. Off-topic, but nevertheless worth airing,<br />
amateur historians will delight in learning that Augustus II<br />
sired 12 children by different women, while his successor<br />
managed to match the number, only this time staying loyal<br />
to his wife in the process.<br />
Back on track, when Augustus III passed away (shagged out<br />
most likely) the building fell into disuse before being rented<br />
out for accommodation. Between 1806-1816 the Prussians<br />
established <strong>Warsaw</strong> Lyceum on the premises, and conflicting<br />
evidence suggests that Chopin either lived there for a time,<br />
or that his father taught French in one of the outbuildings.<br />
Extensively remodelled in 1842 the Palace finally assumed<br />
its best known shape in 1925 when the Tomb of the Unknown<br />
soldier was added to the series of colonnades used<br />
to link the two wings together. Serving as the seat of the<br />
Polish General Staff after WWI it was here that the German<br />
Enigma Code was first cracked by local science boffins.<br />
WWII signalled the end of the Palace and it was flattened by<br />
retreating Nazi troops, with only the Tomb of the Unknown<br />
Soldier surviving the blasts.<br />
But the story continues. <strong>In</strong> a rare act of foresight the city of<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> has decided to cover the 201 million złoty cost of<br />
rebuilding Saski Palace. Budimex Dromex have been awarded<br />
the tender to undertake the work and the façade, thanks to<br />
blueprints made available by the Central Military Archive, will<br />
look just like it did in 1939. It’s not known what will occupy<br />
the space, with ideas ranging from a Museum of Polish<br />
History to an institute dedicated to the thoughts of Pope<br />
John Paul II. Completion was originally set for 2010, though<br />
so far building work has not entirely gone to plan. Although<br />
sappers failed to find any undetonated devices, builders<br />
have since come across over 10,000 rare archaeological<br />
finds including baroque sculptures, secret tunnels, ancient<br />
wells, German helmets and wine glasses bearing August<br />
III’s monogram. The one problem being that no provision<br />
was made for discoveries of this scale, meaning that many<br />
of the treasures recovered have since corroded after being<br />
incorrectly stored. For the time being work appears to have<br />
stopped completely, with even the fences taken down - when<br />
it’ll resume is anyone’s guess, though we could be in for a<br />
bit of a wait.<br />
The Eastern Wall. Reeling from near total annihilation<br />
the post-war years saw <strong>Warsaw</strong> emerge as Europe’s biggest<br />
brickyard as it struggled to rebuild itself from the ashes.<br />
<strong>In</strong>itially the buzzword for architects in the region was Socialist<br />
Realism, a severe style following strict guidelines from a<br />
Soviet masterplan. The death of Stalin in 1953 changed all<br />
that and architects looked to the west for inspiration, a disastrous<br />
move that saw all manner of brutalist monstrosities<br />
rise from the ruins. The competition in <strong>Warsaw</strong> is fierce, but<br />
probably nastiest of the lot is the development dubbed ‘the<br />
Eastern Wall’ (Ściana Wschodnia), a collection of buildings<br />
and tower block running from Rondo Dmowskiego (B-4) to<br />
ul. Świętokrzyska (B-3). Architect Zbigniew Karpiński - the<br />
guy who also designed the bunker-like US Embassy on ul.<br />
Piękna - won the competition to rebuild the area and set<br />
about remodelling the centre of <strong>Warsaw</strong> with the zealous<br />
glee of a complete nutter. Construction kicked off in 1962<br />
and was completed seven years later, the result being four<br />
department stores, the Rotunda bank building, a blockish<br />
office building behind it, a cinema, and even a nightclub.<br />
Towering over it all were three residential blocks situated on<br />
Świętokrzyska (85 metres), Zgoda (87 metres) and Chmielna<br />
(81 metres). Originally hailed a work of genius the Eastern<br />
Wall soon became a bit of a rusty elephant, crippled and<br />
blackened with age and neglect. The collapse of communism<br />
breathed new life into the complex - Poland’s first McDonald’s<br />
was opened at the Świętokrzyska end of the complex,<br />
while the office block behind the Rotunda temporarily held<br />
the title for having the largest billboard in the world. More<br />
recently steps have been taken to polish up the area with<br />
shining glass frontages added to the department stores,<br />
and granite floored pedestrian walkways and modern tubular<br />
lighting added to the section behind the Jerozolimskie end.<br />
But snoop behind the area around McD’s and you’ll find a<br />
glorious blast to the past, with smashed pavements, useless<br />
bare-lit supermarkets and a couple of cafes selling ersatz<br />
coffee to hunched old men smoking cigarettes by the fistful.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Palace of Culture and Science (PKiN) (Pałac<br />
Kultury i Nauki) B-4, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656<br />
76 00, www.pkin.pl. Don’t let the name fool you - this is not<br />
the cultural hub of <strong>Warsaw</strong>. That said, however long you’re in<br />
the city for this is a must-see to experience Soviet <strong>Warsaw</strong>.<br />
For all the aggressive westernisation that has overcome<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>, the four decades of communism have yet to be<br />
completely erased from the face of <strong>Warsaw</strong>.. You couldn’t<br />
miss this hulking giant of a landmark if you tried. Soaring 231<br />
metres into the sky the building remains the tallest in Poland,<br />
in spite of recent competition from its highrise neighbours.<br />
Originally commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet<br />
people’ the structure actually takes its inspiration from the<br />
capitalist world, namely the Empire State Building, but, believe<br />
it or not, was specifically designed to include influences<br />
from all of Poland’s architectural styles. Stalin had sent a<br />
secret delegation to New York to learn both about the building<br />
and American construction methods, though the outbreak<br />
of WWII meant that it wasn’t until 1952 that his architects<br />
were able to commence putting their knowledge into practice.<br />
Lev Rudynev, the brains behind the equally monstrous<br />
Lomonosov University in Moscow, was put in charge of the<br />
design and set about making the building into one of the most<br />
notorious examples of Socialist Realist architecture in the<br />
world. Over 5,000 workers were ferried in from the Soviet<br />
states and housed in a purpose-built village in Jelonki, west<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>, where they were effectively cut off from the outside<br />
world. Working around the clock, it took them just three years<br />
to complete the Palace. <strong>In</strong> all 16 died during the construction,<br />
though despite the Olympian efforts of the labourers Stalin<br />
never lived to see his pet project completed.<br />
Built using an estimated 40 million bricks and housing 3,288<br />
rooms the Palace’s purpose was to serve as not just party<br />
headquarters but also ‘the people’s castle’, with invitations<br />
to the annual New Year’s Eve Ball issued to the best workers<br />
in socialist Poland. Regardless of this the building became an<br />
object of hatred and a stain on the skyline; like the imperialist<br />
Nevsky Cathedral that once stood on pl. Piłsudskiego, the palace<br />
was seen as no more than a symbol of Russian hegemony.<br />
Viewed from a distance - apparently it can be spotted from<br />
30km away - the palace appears a faceless monolith. Viewed<br />
closely several intricate details appear in focus. Under Stalin’s<br />
orders architects travelled around Poland’s key cultural sights,<br />
from Wawel to Zamość, observing Polish architectural traditions,<br />
hence the numerous crenulations, courtyards and motifs.<br />
Once inside the ground floor becomes a maze of halls and<br />
corridors, with chambers named after Eastern icons - Yuri<br />
Gagarin, Marie Skłodowska-Curie (a famous communist<br />
sympathiser), etc. Brass chandeliers hang over clacking<br />
parquet flooring, secret lifts lie hidden around and allegorical<br />
socialist reliefs take inspiration from ancient mythology - it’s<br />
easy to imagine Bond snooping around planting listening devices.<br />
Several conference rooms still hold original translator<br />
booths, complete with huge dials and buttons. The crowning<br />
glory of the ground floor is the Sala Kongresowa, a decadent<br />
red theatre space apparently inspired by La Scala. Holding<br />
2,880 its original use was to host party conferences, though<br />
through the years it became better known as a concert venue<br />
- hosting acts as diverse as the Rolling Stones in 1967 and<br />
the Chippendales in 2006.<br />
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Kescior/Wikipedia<br />
Given that the building boasts over 3,300 rooms there is<br />
not a lot to see, unless you’re into conference facilities, so<br />
visitors are best directed to the terrace on the 30th floor. To<br />
get there you’ll need to buy a ticket for 15zł, after which you’ll<br />
be shepherded into an old-style lift complete with a lovely<br />
lift attendant who has probably been doing the job since<br />
the building opened. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Admission for<br />
the viewing level is 15/10zł. Group ticket for more than 10<br />
people 8zł per person. Note that in December on Fridays<br />
and Saturdays you can see the <strong>Warsaw</strong> panorama by night<br />
(between 18:00 - 22:00) for 15zł per person.<br />
Museum of Technology (Muzeum Techniki) B-4,<br />
Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), tel. (+48) 22 656 67 47, www.<br />
muzeumtechniki.warszawa.pl. A vast collection dedicated<br />
to the history of everything technological inside the equally<br />
enormous Palace of Culture & Science, this museum is only<br />
missing a map. Truly huge, and clearly laid out by somebody<br />
with a sadistic sense of humour, the scores of rooms are<br />
scattered willy nilly and organised with what appears to be a<br />
contemptuous disregard for reason and logic. Highlights include<br />
a cavalcade of impossible-looking motorbikes and aeroplanes,<br />
a room packed with 19th century musical boxes, historical cars<br />
like a 1936 Lux-Sport limousine chassis and a small exhibition<br />
celebrating space exploration that could do with some serious<br />
updating. Decorated with lace curtains and staffed by an army<br />
of sinister-looking old ladies, this museum guarantees that you<br />
won’t learn a thing no matter how hard you try, but it’s a strangely<br />
rewarding experience that really has to be seen to be believed.<br />
Q Open 08:30 - 16:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Admission 14/8zł. Family ticket (up to 5 people) 30zł. Guided<br />
tours in English - additional 50zł per group.<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
87
88 OLD TOWN<br />
WHAT OLD TO TOWN SEE<br />
Old Town (Stare Miasto) B-1/2. The Old Town is a<br />
labyrinth of winding streets and squares full of olde worlde<br />
charm. While it was entirely rebuilt after the <strong>Warsaw</strong> uprising<br />
of 1944, it is well worth a visit to get lost amongst the<br />
cobbles and tastefully recreated facades. Souvenirs ranging<br />
from the tasteless - baseball hats and fridge magnets, paintings<br />
of coquettish horses - to the tasteful - amber, lace and<br />
ceramics - are best found here, though at premium tourist<br />
prices. The best thing about the Old Town, however, is the<br />
tangible sense of Polish pride in their city and if nothing else,<br />
it’s a great place to relax with a beer and indulge in an hour<br />
or two of nun spotting.<br />
When US General Dwight Eisenhower visited <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
immediately after the war he was moved to comment, “I<br />
have seen many towns destroyed, but nowhere have<br />
I been faced with such destruction.” Buried under<br />
twenty million cubic metres of rubble the city resembled<br />
a shattered shell; over half the population had been killed,<br />
and 85% of the city razed to the ground. The Old Town had<br />
been hit with particular Nazi efficiency, and by the time<br />
the Red Army rolled across the river it was little more than<br />
a smouldering heap of bricks. To their credit the Capital<br />
Reconstruction Bureau chose to rebuild the historic centre,<br />
a painstaking process that would last until 1962. Using<br />
pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs the Old<br />
Town was carefully rebuilt, though only at the considerable<br />
expense of Poland’s ‘recovered territories’. Szczecin, for<br />
instance, was coerced into demolishing many of its historic<br />
buildings in order to ‘donate’ an estimated 27 million bricks<br />
to the <strong>Warsaw</strong> rebuilding program. So too Wrocław, which<br />
at one stage was sending a staggering one million bricks<br />
to <strong>Warsaw</strong> per day; ‘He who loves Wrocław, loves <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
as well’ pined a propaganda tune of the era. But forget the<br />
other cities, look at the results in front of you. Although<br />
it’s barely half a century old <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s historic quarter is<br />
an architectural miracle, and a breathing tribute to a city<br />
that refused to die.<br />
Most visits to the Old Town begin on plac Zamkowy (B-2),<br />
and if you’re Polish then right under the statue of Zygmunt.<br />
There isn’t a more popular meeting spot in the city, and<br />
there’s not a minute of the day when the steps to the<br />
statue aren’t besieged by dating couples or banjo playing<br />
irritants. Erected in 1644 by Zygmunt III’s son, Władysław<br />
IV, the twenty two metre column was originally designed by<br />
Italian architects Augustyn Locci and Constantino Tencalla,<br />
and the figure of Zygmunt ranks as Poland’s second oldest<br />
monument - beaten into runners up spot by the Neptun<br />
Fountain in Gdańsk. Local legend asserts that Zygmunt<br />
rattles his sabre whenever <strong>Warsaw</strong> is in trouble, an occurrence<br />
that was first reported during the 1794 Kościuszko<br />
Uprising and again during WWII. One fact that can’t be<br />
disputed is his good fortune. With the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Uprising in<br />
full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and<br />
came crashing down. Amazingly Zygmunt survived, losing<br />
only his sword, and he was returned to a new perch in 1949.<br />
The column he fell off is still knocking around as well, and<br />
you can find it lying on its side within spitting distance of<br />
the Royal Castle.<br />
Moving forward head down Świętojańska to run a gauntlet<br />
of buskers, ice cream queues and shoe shine boys.<br />
Somewhere amid the melee you’ll spot the Cathedral (see<br />
Churches), well worth popping into, not least to check out<br />
the Baruczkowski Crucifix - a 16th century cross renowned<br />
for its mysterious powers. Famed in particular for its crypt<br />
this neo-Gothic masterpiece also contains stunning works<br />
of art, as well as tank tracks on the exterior wall recovered<br />
from a remote-controlled German tank used to attack the<br />
cathedral in 1944. The overall effect is quite something, so<br />
it’s no surprise many people bypass the Jesuit Church right<br />
next door, a super renaissance building described in detail<br />
in our Churches section.<br />
It’s hard to believe that by the end of 1944 all before you<br />
was just a skeletal set of ruins, but that’s exactly what it<br />
was. Evidence of this can be viewed on ul. Zapiecka where<br />
some black and white photographs show aerial views of the<br />
war time devastation. The Old Town’s subsequent inclusion<br />
on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1980 is remembered<br />
in the form of some cobbled stones set into the ground. As<br />
tempting as it is to make a beeline for the main square, the<br />
Rynek, save yourself for now. Head instead down ul. Piwna,<br />
or Beer Street as it translates. Although there’s no evidence<br />
of the 15th century breweries that once thrived here you will<br />
find a couple of half decent hostelries, though the real reason<br />
many visit this street is for a glimpse of St. Martin’s Church<br />
on ul. Piwna 9/11. This place was utterly annihilated during<br />
the war, and the only fragment to survive was a half-burned<br />
figure of Jesus. Since its inception the church has always<br />
been linked with theological and political dissent, and this<br />
was never more true than in the period of Martial Law, when<br />
Solidarity supporters would convene here for both worship<br />
and secret meetings. As with the rest of Old Town, the real<br />
beauty of Piwna lies in the details - check out the elaborate<br />
paintings and gargoyles that peer from the facades, and<br />
don’t miss the portal at number 6. Known locally as Pod<br />
Gołębiami (under the pigeons) and housing a restaurant<br />
called Karmnik, this place acquired its name after the war<br />
when a batty old woman settled in the ruins and made it her<br />
calling to look after the flocks of pigeons that stalked around<br />
the post-war debris.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Stay on the left flank of the Old Town to check out the area<br />
around ul. Piekarska and ul. Rycerska. This area was formerly<br />
home to a small square used primarily for executions.<br />
Nicknamed Piekarka this is where witches and other ne’er do<br />
wells would be burned at the stake, hung or have their heads<br />
lopped off. Marking the end of Piekarska, just outside the old<br />
city walls, check out the sword waving figure of Jan Kiliński<br />
(see Monuments), a legendary Polish patriot and a hero of the<br />
1794 Kościuszko Uprising. The man who gave his name to<br />
that Uprising, Tadeusz Kościuszko (the same lad who would<br />
fight with distinction in the American War of <strong>In</strong>dependence,<br />
and would later have Australia’s highest peak named after<br />
him), lived at Szeroki Dunaj 5. This wide street was formerly<br />
home to <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s fish market, while the street running at a<br />
90 degree angle, Wąski Dunaj, was the town’s original Jewish<br />
Quarter back in medieval times. Directly behind the wall, and<br />
onto Podwale, you’ll find one of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s most photographed<br />
landmarks; The Monument to the Little <strong>In</strong>surgent. Depicting<br />
a boy weighed down by a machine gun and outsized helmet<br />
the monument honours the memory of the child soldiers who<br />
fought and died in the 1944 <strong>Warsaw</strong> Uprising, and it’s not<br />
rare to find the bronze statue surrounded by school groups<br />
on their day out to the capital.<br />
Follow Podwale as it curves northwards, and if you’re<br />
feeling peckish at this stage search the radar for signs<br />
of Podwale Kompania Piwna at number 25 (see Where to<br />
Eat). Resembling a typical European beer hall this place<br />
is an absolute legend, with servings of meat and cabbage<br />
practically forklifted onto tables. At this stage it’s fair to say<br />
you’ll probably be feeling like a python who swallowed a pig,<br />
so waddle with great care and attention to the Barbakan<br />
building, making sure to avoid those annoying street dudes<br />
who’ll try and lead you to their executioners block to have<br />
your pic snapped. Crowning the set of defensive walls which<br />
once protected the city is the Barbakan, a fearsome rotund<br />
structure that dates from 1548 and was apparently the work<br />
of a Venetian architect. Today it serves as a bridge between<br />
Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for<br />
teenagers drinking super-strength lager. <strong>In</strong> summer tours of<br />
the interior are available, and well worth the look if you don’t<br />
have an aversion to confined spaces. <strong>In</strong>terestingly, the moat<br />
that pins the Old Town in is another relatively recent addition<br />
to <strong>Warsaw</strong>. The original ditch was filled in back in the 18th<br />
century when the defences became obsolete, and the walls<br />
were incorporated into the dense tangle of townhouses<br />
that mushroomed up around. Fragments of these forgotten<br />
defences were unearthed in 1937, and a decade later, with<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> in ruins, architects took the decision to restore and<br />
expose these ancient walls.<br />
It’s at this point you’ll find your nose pointing straight down<br />
ul. Nowomiejska, a street revered for <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s best ice<br />
cream. Continue forward to reach the Old Town Square<br />
(Rynek). No matter how often you see it, it can’t fail to leave<br />
you breathless. The burgher houses that line the square<br />
are particularly striking, with many boasting intricate details<br />
on the facades. Measuring 90 metres by 73 this square is<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>’s defining highlight, and presents unlimited ways<br />
to squander your money - tourist junk stores and crappy<br />
restaurants populated with stuffed animals come to mind.<br />
One place that is worth popping into, even if it’s just to steal<br />
the cutlery, is U Fukiera at number 27. The culinary tradition<br />
here dates from 1810 when the Fukier family turned this<br />
place into <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s top winery. Today the restaurant is<br />
in the hands of the Gesslers, and their guest list reads as<br />
something of a Who’s Who of stage and screen. Close by is<br />
the Historical Museum of <strong>Warsaw</strong>, which has been closed<br />
for renovations but reopens in May – be one of the first to<br />
see this excellent museum’s overhaul.<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Back outside take stock of one of Poland’s finest town<br />
squares. <strong>In</strong> the 15th century this was occupied by a town<br />
hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never replaced.<br />
<strong>In</strong>stead, today you’ll find a couple of water pumps<br />
dating from the 19th century, as well as <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s best<br />
loved monument - Syrenka. Cast in 1855 this mermaid’s<br />
form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms you’ll find in<br />
the capital. You’re also liable to run into a platoon of street<br />
artists. Most famous of the lot is Piotr Bol, a weird, cloaked<br />
little man who plays one of Europe’s last music boxes with<br />
a parrot alongside him. But for real comedy gold check out<br />
the mime artists who stand in frozen posture - a few years<br />
back one such chap, dressed as a monk, collapsed after<br />
a marathon booze binge leaving his giant genitals exposed<br />
to the world.<br />
Leaving the square head down ul. Kamienne Schodki.<br />
Not only is this the longest stairwell in Old Town, it’s also<br />
where Napoleon stood in 1806, pensively staring eastward<br />
on the eve of his campaign on the plains of Russia.<br />
From here walk south down ul. Brzozowa until you reach<br />
the grassy bank that offers sweeping views of the River<br />
Wisła. Known as Gnojna Góra (Compost Hill), this small<br />
knoll once served as the town rubbish dump, and at one<br />
stage was also renowned for its healing properties - this is<br />
where the stupid rich would come to be buried up to their<br />
necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis. Doesn’t<br />
work, we’ve tried.<br />
Head back towards the Old Town by walking towards ul.<br />
Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most<br />
picturesque sights in the city. Finally, conclude your epic<br />
walking tour by swerving onto ul. Kanonia. Once a graveyard,<br />
this small little square features a cracked cathedral<br />
bell (that promises good luck if you touch the top and<br />
circle it) as well as what is touted as the world’s narrowest<br />
house at number 20/22 (though a new narrow home being<br />
constructed in the crack between 22 Chłodna St. and 74<br />
Żelazna St. that measures just 72 cm at its smallest point<br />
may just top it). Close by note the covered walkway linking<br />
the cathedral to the castle. This was built after a failed<br />
assassination attempt on Zygmunt III. The King escaped<br />
unmolested, but the hapless hitman, Michal Piekarski,<br />
found himself skinned alive, stretched by four horses and<br />
then chopped into pieces with an axe. And on that happy<br />
note, consider your tour at an end.<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
89
90 PRAGA<br />
WHAT TO PRAGA SEE<br />
Gritty. Bo-ho. Up-and-coming. There are a lot of terms being<br />
tossed around to describe Praga, the eastern district of<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> that hugs the Vistula River, and they’re all fairly apt.<br />
Praga has long been regarded as off-limits to Western visitors<br />
thanks to its criminal underclass and imposing tower blocks,<br />
but a revival of sorts now makes this section of town worthy<br />
of emphasising - especially if you prefer to see the city’s<br />
artsy underbelly and get away from the well-trodden tourist<br />
path in Old Town. The area is still at least five years away<br />
from being hipster-soaked Brooklyn or boho Montmartre, but<br />
that’s exactly why now is the time to go: a visit will mean you<br />
can say you saw the evolution in progress.<br />
<strong>In</strong> practice and geographically Praga has always been set<br />
apart from <strong>Warsaw</strong> proper. Until 1791 the district was its own<br />
separate town and the inability to build a permanent bridge<br />
between Praga and <strong>Warsaw</strong> until the mid-18th century surely<br />
proved a factor in the separatism (ferries in the summer<br />
and a stroll across the iced-over Vistula in the winter were<br />
the main option for transit in the pre-bridge days). Finally<br />
in 1791 King Stanislaw August Poniatowski attached the<br />
district officially to <strong>Warsaw</strong>, dissolving it of its independence<br />
(at least on paper).<br />
Praga wasn’t given much time to enjoy its new status as<br />
part of <strong>Warsaw</strong> thanks to the The Battle of Praga in 1794,<br />
which saw an aggressive invasion by the Russian army. Following<br />
the quick but devastating battle the Russians burned<br />
the entire district and massacred the 20,000 Poles living<br />
there. During World War II Praga wasn’t quite as devastated<br />
as <strong>Warsaw</strong> proper (which isn’t really saying much if you’ve<br />
seen the condition <strong>Warsaw</strong> was left in). The Russians, again,<br />
arrived in Praga in July 1944 and stopped at the Vistula,<br />
famously leaving the Polish Home Army dangling during the<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Uprising.<br />
Today working-class Praga is the standard-bearer for cool,<br />
especially among those who find the tourist-heavy Old Town<br />
too Disneyfied and the sterile clubs of <strong>Warsaw</strong> proper as<br />
distasteful. Folks here prefer their bars dark and their fun<br />
improvised, and visitors can easily spend a day checking<br />
out the sights and an evening enjoying the often impressive<br />
beer selection.<br />
Agnieszka Osiecka Monument (Pomnik Agnieszki<br />
Osieckiej) H-2, ul. Francuska (corner of ul.<br />
Obrońców). Agnieszka Osiecka (1936 - 1997) was a Polish<br />
poet and journalist, and the author of over 2,000 songs,<br />
many of which were turned into pop hits. She’s also known<br />
for a particularly grisly connection to the Swinging Sixties;<br />
her first marriage ended in tragedy when her husband,<br />
Wojciech Frykowski, became one of those slain by Charles<br />
Getting there<br />
By Public Transport:<br />
From Centralna the 160 bus will take you across the<br />
river and drop you at the Park Praski stop, a great place<br />
to begin your tour of Praga (you can nod at the bears<br />
as you disembark). If you’re in the Old Town simply walk<br />
down the steps near the Royal Castle to Al. Solidarnosci<br />
and the Stare Miasto tram stop and every tram heading<br />
over the river (23, 26) stops at Park Praski as well. These<br />
same trams will return you to the Stare Miasto as well.<br />
By taxi:<br />
You can also take a taxi which should cost around<br />
20-30zł and should take you from the centre area to<br />
Ząbkowska in less than 20 minutes. Please remember<br />
that the price and time depends on the traffic, so your<br />
journey may be longer during rush hours.<br />
Manson’s family of weirdos in what would turn out to be<br />
one of the crimes of the century. The statue is located in<br />
Praga Południe, a more modern section of Praga (note the<br />
surrounding embassies) than Stara Praga. To round out your<br />
visit check out Osiecka’s favourite café, Maska, which stands<br />
around the corner from her monument.<br />
Bears C-1, Praski Park (from al. Solidarności), tel.<br />
(+48) 22 619 40 41. Strangely enough, bears have been<br />
living on the concrete island in Praski Park since 1949; over<br />
400 have been reared here before being packed off to zoos,<br />
safari parks and circuses around the globe. Although the<br />
bears look rather sleepy they can still pack a punch. Several<br />
years ago a drunken idiot was savaged after jumping into<br />
the enclosure. The two current well-rested residents are<br />
called Tatra and Turnia.<br />
Buildings. Although in a sorry state of disrepair, much of<br />
Praga survived the war. Nowadays, to walk around the bulletscarred<br />
tenement houses found by the riverside is to immerse<br />
yourself in pre-war Praga. The oldest surviving residential<br />
building in the district can be found on (H-1) ul. Targowa 50/52.<br />
Built in 1819, it once housed a Jewish elementary school and<br />
bears a Hebrew inscription dating from 1934. The Praska<br />
<strong>In</strong>formacja Turystyczna (Praga Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation) offers a<br />
brochure about the building’s history that is unfortunately only<br />
in Polish, however the staff is happy to interpret.<br />
Kapela Podwórkowa Monument G-1, corner of ul.<br />
Floriańska and ul. Kłopotowskiego. The tradition of clothcapped<br />
buskers goes back a long way in <strong>Warsaw</strong>, and the<br />
best loved of the lot have been commemorated in the heart<br />
of Praga. The pre-war Kapela Podwórkowa (The Courtyard<br />
Band) are a bit of a local legend in these parts, and now the<br />
five piece band have been honoured with a noisy monument<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
sculpted by Andrzej Renes. Send a text (SMS) message to tel.<br />
7141 with the text KAPELA, then pick a number between 1<br />
and 100 (the list of 100 songs to choose from is on the side<br />
of the brass drum); that’s the signal for hidden speakers to<br />
burst forth with pre-war and patriotic classics made famous<br />
by these local heroes. However, recent visits to the statue<br />
have shown the buskers to be temperamental, and texts did<br />
not always result in a song being played.<br />
Kościuszkowców Monument (Pomnik<br />
Kościuszkowców) G-1, ul. Wybrzeże Szczecińskie,<br />
Near Port Praski. A formidable monument erected in 1985<br />
to act as a memorial for those who fought in the First Polish<br />
<strong>In</strong>fantry Division. Formed in Russia, the division attempted<br />
to cross the Wisła river several times without success, in a<br />
bid to support the 1944 Uprising.<br />
Orthodox Church of St. Mary Magdalene (Cerkiew<br />
Św. Marii Magdaleny) G-1, Al. Solidarności 52, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 619 84 67. Constructed between 1867 and 1869<br />
to a design by Mikołaj Syczew, St. Mary Magdalene’s was<br />
originally built for the large congregation of Russians living<br />
around Jagiellońska as well as people arriving from the East<br />
at the nearby Wileńska train station. Now belonging to the independent<br />
Polish Autocephaly Orthodox Church, this stunning,<br />
five-domed building features a breathtaking golden interior<br />
and some unusually cheerful abstract designs. One of only<br />
two Orthodox churches to survive a demolition campaign in<br />
the 1920s, it’s easily the best-smelling church in Praga thanks<br />
to the heavy burning of rich incense. QOpen 11:00 - 15:00.<br />
Różycki Bazaar (Bazar Różyckiego) H-1, ul.<br />
Targowa 54, tel. (+48) 22 619 44 06, www.bazarrozyckiego.pl.<br />
Once regarded as <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s premier bazaar,<br />
the rambling Bazar Różyckiego has seen its popularity wane<br />
since 1989. Black market trade once thrived under Nazi<br />
and communist governments, but nowadays the historic<br />
102-year-old market is a ghostly image of its former self.<br />
Once considered the place for cardigans, firearms and<br />
spurious goods, it’s now a mildly depressing look into working<br />
class <strong>Warsaw</strong> life. Visitors could easily outfit an entire<br />
polyester wedding thanks to the heaps of vendors selling<br />
cheap wedding dresses, tacky kiddie tuxes and chintzy<br />
mother-of-the-bride gowns. QOpen 07:00 - 16:00, Sat<br />
07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Soviet War Memorial (Pomnik Braterstwa Broni)<br />
G-1, Pl. Wileński. Dedicated to the Soviet soldiers who died<br />
during the ‘liberation’ of <strong>Warsaw</strong>, this monument has been<br />
removed due to the construction of a new Metro station<br />
and will spend some time being restored before relocating<br />
80 metres down the road on Pl. Wileński (towards ul. Cyryla<br />
i Metodego). Erected in the immediate aftermath of WWII,<br />
the rusting edifice is the city’s least loved memorial and<br />
is often littered with graffiti (though the clean-up should<br />
temporarily take care of this). Its Praga location is quite<br />
apt - this was where the Red Army halted their advance in<br />
1944, while Nazi troops put down the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Uprising and<br />
then demolished the city.<br />
Tourist information<br />
Praga Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation (Praska <strong>In</strong>formacja<br />
Turystyczna) H-1, ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, tel. (+48)<br />
22 670 01 56, www.totu.travel.pl. <strong>In</strong>fo on the local<br />
area and guided tours in English and Polish, as well as<br />
an application for smartphones that offers a tour of<br />
Praga in English. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Sts. Michael & Florian<br />
Cathedral (Katedra Św.<br />
Michała Archanioła i<br />
Św. Floriana) G-1, ul.<br />
Floriańska 3, tel. (+48) 22<br />
619 09 60, www.katedrafloriana.home.pl/cms/.<br />
This<br />
giant gothic cathedral viewable<br />
from across the Vistula<br />
in <strong>Warsaw</strong> proper was built<br />
in reaction to the building of<br />
an Orthodox Church and a<br />
number of other structures on<br />
the Tsar’s orders in the latter<br />
half of the 19th century. A<br />
certain Pole by the name of Father Ignacy Dutkiewicz decided<br />
to hit back with the construction of a huge new Catholic<br />
church, which was consecrated in 1901. Unsurprisingly this<br />
vast Gothic beast was blown to pieces by the Germans in<br />
September 1944 and is now almost exclusively the work of<br />
ongoing reconstruction between 1947 and 1970. Featuring<br />
a pair of steel-tipped 75-metre steeples, the church, which<br />
includes a photograph of what remained of it after the Nazis<br />
dynamited it on the left wall as you enter, has a rather plain<br />
interior though the vaulted ceilings are well worth a look at if<br />
you’re in the area. Q Open by prior arrangement.<br />
Ząbkowska. Nowhere is Praga’s revival better illustrated<br />
than ulica Ząbkowska, the natural gravitational point for all<br />
the Boho and artistic types who have recently materialized<br />
to upgrade the district. Originally lined with timber frame<br />
houses, Ząbkowska experienced a fierce blaze in 1868 that<br />
led to wooden lodgings being replaced with tall tenements, all<br />
but one surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street hard,<br />
with Ząbkowska allowed to fall into such disrepair that plans<br />
for wholesale demolition were seriously considered. However<br />
it survived, and today restoration work has seen many of<br />
buildings returned to their former glory, streets repaved and<br />
galleries opened. For some the very name Ząbkowska is synonymous<br />
with lively bars filled with student revolutionaries.<br />
Zoo C-1, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41,<br />
www.zoo.waw.pl. If the bears piqued your interest in animals<br />
then head to the nearby <strong>Warsaw</strong> Zoo, which was opened in<br />
1928 and covers an area of 40 hectares. More than 5,000<br />
species call it home and that includes all the biggies you’d<br />
expect: lions, gorillas, giraffes and elephants to name a few.<br />
As with every major <strong>Warsaw</strong> landmark, the zoo has plenty of<br />
war stories. It was bombed at the beginning of the conflict and<br />
by 1945 all the animals had either been killed, deported to<br />
the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo<br />
director, Jan Żabiński, became something of a hero; wounded<br />
during the 1944 Uprising, Żabiński helped save countless lives<br />
by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo. The<br />
zoo officially re-opened in 1949. Q Open 09:00 - 15:30, Sun<br />
09:00 - 16:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission<br />
18/13zł. Children under 3 years free.<br />
Where to drink<br />
Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22. See Nightlife.<br />
Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra H-1, ul. Jagiellońska 22.<br />
See Nightlife.<br />
Saturator ul. 11 listopada 22. See Nightlife.<br />
W Oparach Absurdu H-1, ul. Ząbkowska 6. See<br />
Nightlife.<br />
Where to eat<br />
DeCoteria H-1, ul. Ząbkowska 16. See Restaurants.<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
91
92 WARSAW UPRISING<br />
WARSAW WHAT UPRISING TO SEE<br />
<strong>In</strong>surgents charge into battle<br />
August 1, 1944. <strong>Warsaw</strong>, subject to five years of fascist<br />
hegemony, rose up in popular rebellion in what would go on<br />
to be recorded as the largest ever uprising in the German<br />
occupied territories. With German morale in ribbons, a retreat<br />
from <strong>Warsaw</strong> in full swing, and the Red Army already on the<br />
east bank of the Wisła, no time seemed better than the present.<br />
Following close contact with the Polish government-inexile,<br />
and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Poland’s<br />
wartime military movement a.k.a the Armii Krajowy or AK)<br />
launched a military strike with the aim of liberating <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
and installing an independent government.<br />
During the event the Red Army made no concerted attempt<br />
to help the Poles, while promises of Allied support proved<br />
largely empty. As for the Nazi hierarchy, they reacted with<br />
blind rage to this stroke of Polish insolence, and what ensued<br />
was an epic 63 day struggle during which the Home Army<br />
faced the full wrath of Hitler. The most notorious chapter of<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>’s history was about to be written.<br />
Outbreak of War<br />
At 4:45am on September 1, 1939, shots were fired from German<br />
gun emplacements positioned inside the lighthouse<br />
at Danzig Neufahrwasser, found in what was then known as<br />
the Free City of Danzig (today Gdansk). The object of the<br />
aggression was the military garrison stationed on the Polish<br />
controlled Westerplatte Peninsula, and within minutes the<br />
German battleship Schleswig Holstein joined the bombardment,<br />
inadvertently kicking off a conflict that would last six<br />
years and cost 55 million lives.<br />
Approximately an hour after Westerplatte the capital itself<br />
came under aerial bombardment; waves of Stuka dive bombers<br />
swooped on the capital in what can only be described<br />
as one of the world’s first ever terror bombings - hospitals,<br />
schools and market places were all deemed legitimate<br />
targets, while columns of fleeing refugees were strafed from<br />
the air. Within a week German land forces had reached the<br />
city limits, though any thoughts of a swift lightning victory<br />
were quickly rebuffed. An opening tank assault on Ochota<br />
was fended off, with the German’s losing 80 tanks from an<br />
attacking force of 220. Spurred on by the stirring broadcasts<br />
of <strong>Warsaw</strong> Mayor Stefan Starzynski the defenders dug in for<br />
siege, fighting street by street and inch for inch. A German<br />
demand for surrender on September 14th was rejected,<br />
and in spite of claims of triumph in the German press the<br />
city fought on, civilians and military alike joining together in<br />
a desperate attempt to ward off the invaders.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>’s fate, and indeed Poland’s, was sealed days<br />
later on the 17th of September when the Soviets invaded<br />
from the east thereby fulfilling their part in the Nazi/Soviet<br />
Molotov-Ribbentrop pact. Even so, with the odds stacked<br />
against them, the Poles continued the fight on two fronts,<br />
with segments of Chopin aired every 30 seconds by radio<br />
to let the outside world know that <strong>Warsaw</strong> was still Polish.<br />
However the human cost was starting to mount; the merciless<br />
bombardment had claimed the lives of over 50,000<br />
Varsovians, the Royal Castle lay in ruins, and supplies of<br />
food, power and water had reached critical levels. With Allied<br />
aid not forthcoming, and a humanitarian disaster looming<br />
large, the capital finally raised the white flag on September<br />
<strong>28th</strong>. To bring the Polish heroics into perspective, Paris,<br />
defended by the largest standing army in the world, took<br />
just nine days to fall.<br />
Occupation<br />
Hitler arrived in <strong>Warsaw</strong> for his one and only visit to the<br />
Polish capital on October 5th, inspecting a victory parade<br />
on (C-4) Al. Ujazdowskie before scuttling off for a reception<br />
at the Belvedere Palace. If his pre-war rants hadn’t been<br />
ominous enough, the Polish public were about to learn just<br />
what a nutcase this man really was. “The Fuhrer’s verdict on<br />
the Poles is damning,” wrote Goebbels shortly after Hitler’s<br />
stopover. “More like animals than human beings, completely<br />
primitive, stupid and amorphous.”<br />
Hitler carved Poland into pieces - parts were annexed into<br />
the Reich, other areas - <strong>Warsaw</strong> included - found themselves<br />
under the General Government of Hans Frank, an expert chess<br />
player and fanatical Nazi: “If I had to put up a poster for every<br />
seven Poles I shot, the forests of Poland would not be sufficient<br />
to manufacture the paper,” he is said to have bragged. His rule<br />
was textbook despot, both brutal and bloody, and it was under<br />
his suggestion that Ludwig Fischer was appointed governor of<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>, a post he would hold right until 1945. Fischer was<br />
more bureaucrat than butcher, yet nonetheless it was under<br />
his authority that <strong>Warsaw</strong> became a city of blood.<br />
The racial politics of the Reich were pursued with active<br />
intent, with whole swathes of the city set aside for Germans<br />
only. The largest Ghetto the world has ever seen was<br />
constructed to the north, and <strong>Warsaw</strong> was marginalized in<br />
importance and earmarked as a town whose true purpose<br />
would be to soak up refugees expelled from Aryan territories<br />
to the west. Chopin disappeared from his plinth, Copernicus<br />
and his statue were awarded German identity, and the Polish<br />
community alienated from their own city. Daily rations were<br />
set to 669 calories (184 for Jews), and it’s estimated that a<br />
quarter of the population were only saved from starvation<br />
by the appearance of emergency soup kitchens. But worse<br />
was to follow; from 1943 the Gestapo were granted carte<br />
blanche to shoot people on mere suspicion of wrongdoing,<br />
and street roundups and public executions became a daily<br />
occurrence. This wasn’t so much a city under occupation as<br />
a city under tyranny.<br />
<strong>In</strong>to captivity<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
The Uprising<br />
With such a malignant machine in force it’s little surprise<br />
Poland gave birth to Europe’s largest resistance movement.<br />
Even still, with the war moving towards its closing<br />
stages it was far from obvious that the resistance would<br />
abandon its partisan tactics and launch a bona fide military<br />
assault on the Nazis. By July 1944 the Red Army<br />
led by Marshal Rokossovsky had reached the Wisla, and<br />
on July 22 a panicked Fischer ordered the evacuation of<br />
German civilians from <strong>Warsaw</strong>; sensitive papers were<br />
torched and destroyed, trains screeched westwards to<br />
Berlin and all the signs suggested liberation was but days<br />
away. German intelligence was aware that an uprising<br />
was possible, yet nothing seemed clear cut. Fischer’s<br />
appeals for 100,000 Poles to present themselves to<br />
work on anti-tank defences were ignored, as were broadcasts<br />
reminding the Poles of their heroic battle against<br />
Bolshevism in 1923. Tensions increased with Red Army<br />
leaflet drops urging Varsovians to arms, and were further<br />
exacerbated on July 30th with a Soviet radio announcement<br />
declaring, “People of the capital! To arms! Strike at<br />
the Germans! May your million strong population become<br />
a million soldiers, who will drive out the German invaders<br />
and win freedom.” Still, like boxers prowling the ring, each<br />
side appeared locked in a waiting game, so much so that<br />
German military despatches on the afternoon of August<br />
1, 1944 concluded with, “Warschau ist kalm.” <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
was anything but.<br />
On orders from General Tadeusz ‘Bor’ Komorowski 5pm<br />
signalled W-Hour (Wybuch standing for outbreak), the<br />
precise time when some 40,000 members of the Home<br />
Army would attack key German positions. <strong>Warsaw</strong> at the<br />
time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any<br />
numerical supremacy the Poles could count on was offset<br />
by a chronic lack of arms, and a complete dearth of heavy<br />
armour. Nonetheless the element of surprise caught the<br />
Germans off guard, and in spite of heavy losses the Poles<br />
captured a string of strategic targets, including the old town,<br />
Prudential Tower (then the tallest building in Poland), and<br />
the post office. The first day had cost the lives of 2,000<br />
Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag<br />
fluttered once more over the capital.<br />
Yet in spite of these initial successes their remained several<br />
concerns. Polish battle groups were spread across<br />
the city, and many had failed to link up as planned. More<br />
worryingly, several objectives had been met with disaster<br />
- the police district around (G-4) Al. Szucha remained<br />
firmly in German hands, even more importantly, so did the<br />
airport. Hitler, meanwhile, was roused out of his torpor,<br />
screaming for “No prisoners to be taken,” and “Every<br />
inhabitant to be shot.”<br />
Within days German reinforcements started pouring in,<br />
and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through<br />
the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men,<br />
women and children in what would become one of the most<br />
savage episodes of the Uprising. <strong>In</strong>deed, it was to prove a<br />
mixed first week for the Poles. <strong>In</strong> liberated areas, behind<br />
the barricades, cultural life thrived - over 130 newspapers<br />
sprang up, religious services were celebrated and a scout<br />
run postal service introduced. Better still, the first allied air<br />
drops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out,<br />
this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under<br />
the command of the Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy<br />
artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks. Even<br />
worse, the practice of using Polish women as human shields<br />
was quickly introduced.<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Luftwaffe v <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
The insurgents were a mixed bag, featuring over 4,000<br />
women in their ranks, a unit of Slovaks, scores of Jews<br />
liberated from a <strong>Warsaw</strong> concentration camp, a platoon<br />
of deaf and dumb volunteers led by an officer called Yo<br />
Yo, and an escaped English prisoner of war called John.<br />
Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on their side was<br />
an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were<br />
almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans,<br />
yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic self-assurance.<br />
Air drops were vital if the uprising was to succeed, though<br />
hopes were scuppered with Stalin’s refusal to allow Allied<br />
planes landing rights in Soviet-held airports. <strong>In</strong>stead the<br />
RAF set up a new route running from the Italian town of<br />
Brindisi to <strong>Warsaw</strong>, though casualty rates proved high with<br />
over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccurate<br />
- one such mission concluding with 960 canisters out of<br />
a 1,000 falling into German hands. All hopes, it seemed,<br />
rested on the Russians.<br />
After six weeks of inaction Rokossovsky finally gave the go<br />
ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross the<br />
river and relieve the insurgents. The operation was a debacle,<br />
and with heavy casualties and no headway made the assault<br />
was called off. For the Russians, this single attempt at crossing<br />
the Wisla was enough; <strong>Warsaw</strong> was on its own. Already<br />
by this time the situation in <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s old town, defended by<br />
8,000 Poles, had become untenable, and a daring escape<br />
route was hatched through the sewers running under the<br />
city. The Germans were now free to focus on wiping out<br />
the remaining outposts of resistance, a task undertaken<br />
with glee and armour. Six hundred millimetre shells were<br />
landing on the centre every eight minutes, and casualties<br />
were rising to alarming rates. Surrender negotiations were<br />
initiated in early September, though it wasn’t till the end of<br />
the month - by which time all hope had been exhausted - that<br />
they took a concrete shape. Abandoned by her allies the<br />
Poles were forced to capitulate once more, some 63 days<br />
after they had taken on the Reich. “The battle is finished,”<br />
wrote a eulogy in the final edition of the <strong>In</strong>formation Bulletin.<br />
“From the blood that has been shed, from the common toil<br />
and misery, from the pains of our bodies and souls, a new<br />
Poland will arise - free.”<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
93
WARSAW UPRISING<br />
94 95<br />
Aftermath<br />
Having deposited their weaponry at pre-designated sites,<br />
11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity,<br />
defeated but proud. The battle had cost up to 200,000<br />
civilian lives, while military casualties between Germans<br />
and Poles would add a further 40,000 to the figure. Hitler<br />
was ecstatic; with the Uprising out of the way his plan to<br />
raze <strong>Warsaw</strong> could finally be realized. Remaining inhabitants<br />
were exiled (though around 2,000 are believed to<br />
have seen the liberation by hiding in the ruins), and the<br />
Germans set about obliterating what was left of the city.<br />
“No stone can remain standing,” warned Himmler, and what<br />
happened next can only be described as the methodical<br />
and calculated murder of a city. Buildings were numbered<br />
according to their importance to Polish culture before being<br />
dynamited by teams of engineers, while less historic areas<br />
were simply burned to the ground. Nothing was spared<br />
the iconoclasm, not even trees. “I have seen many towns<br />
destroyed,” exclaimed General Eisenhower after the war,<br />
“But nowhere have I been faced with such destruction.”<br />
Modern studies estimate the cost of damage at around<br />
fifty four billion dollars. <strong>In</strong> human terms Poland lost<br />
much more. With the Uprising died a golden generation,<br />
the very foundation a new post-war Poland could build<br />
on. Those veterans who survived were treated with<br />
suspicion and disdain by the newly installed communist<br />
government, others were persecuted for perceived<br />
western sympathies. Post-war Soviet show trials<br />
convicted 13 leaders of the Uprising for anti-Soviet<br />
actions, and thereafter the Uprising was condemned<br />
as a folly to serve the bourgeois ends of the Polish<br />
government-in-exile. Today, finally, the event that has<br />
come to define the spirit of <strong>Warsaw</strong>, has been awarded<br />
the recognition it deserves.<br />
‘Freedom came out against slavery. The flame of the<br />
Uprising remained in people’s hearts and souls. It was<br />
passed on by the baton of the generations. The spirit<br />
proved indestructible and immortal. Soldiers of the<br />
Rising. You did not die in vain.’<br />
Lech Walesa, 1994<br />
Berling Statue H-3, Wał Miedzeszyński. Zygmunt<br />
Berling is best remembered as the commander of the 1st<br />
Polish Army during WWII, a role that saw him honoured with<br />
his own statue in 1985. Designed by Kazimierz Danilewicz<br />
his white marble monument frequently falls foul of the<br />
vandals, and it’s not uncommon to see Berling’s hands<br />
daubed with blood red paint. That’s on account of Berling’s<br />
associations with the USSR; the 1st Polish Army was little<br />
more than a puppet wing of Stalin’s forces, and Berling’s<br />
perceived inaction during the 1944 <strong>Warsaw</strong> Uprising still<br />
rankles a great many Poles.<br />
Bielański Bank B-2, ul. Bielańska 10. Few remnants<br />
of the Uprising are more conspicuous than the hulking<br />
shell on ul. Bielańska. It’s got quite a history. The site was<br />
originally home to a mint, but that found itself demolished<br />
to make way for the <strong>Warsaw</strong> division of the Imperial Bank<br />
of Russia. Designed by Leontij Nikołajewicz Benois, a rector<br />
of the Fine Arts Academy in St Petersburg, construction<br />
began in 1907 and went on for a further four years. Within<br />
another four years the Russian’s had left, the collapse<br />
of the Empire seeing all Tsarist subjects head back east<br />
with their tails between their legs. The Poles took over<br />
the building, first employing it as the National Treasury,<br />
then establishing it as the headquarters of Bank Polski in<br />
1926. The structure became a key strategic target during<br />
the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Uprising, and on capture served as a base for<br />
Polish insurgents. Smashed to pieces by German bombs<br />
the building was left to rot in the decades that followed.<br />
Originally slated to house the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Uprising Museum,<br />
the bank was subject to legal wrangles that saw that idea<br />
bite the dust. Now Belgian property developer Ghelamco is<br />
redeveloping the site as an office complex that will open<br />
in mid-2012. According to plans the six-floor building will<br />
expose parts of the walls of the ancient mint.<br />
Execution Sites. The fall of communism brought<br />
with it a huge desire to commemorate the Uprising,<br />
which had hitherto been largely erased from Polish<br />
history by anti-nationalist communist censors. Now<br />
memorial plaques and tablets abound around <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
and though they tend to be in Polish only, it doesn’t<br />
take long to get the hang of them; on the whole they’ll<br />
display the date and number of people executed by<br />
the Nazis.<br />
Monument to the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Uprising (Pomnik<br />
Powstania Warszawskiego) B-2, Pl.<br />
Krasińskich. It was only with the regime close to<br />
collapse that this unconventional, not to say controversial<br />
monument was unveiled. Completed in 1989<br />
and designed by Wincent Kucma, it depicts a group<br />
of insurgents in battle, and another faction retreating<br />
into the sewers.<br />
Uprising Museum<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Uprising Museum (Muzeum Powstania<br />
Warszawskiego) D-3, ul. Grzybowska 79, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 539 79 33, www.1944.pl. Opened in 2004,<br />
this remains one of Poland’s best museums. Packed with<br />
interactive displays, photographs, video footage and<br />
miscellaneous exhibits it’s a museum that’s guaranteed<br />
to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram<br />
power station the 2,000m2 space is split over several<br />
levels, leading visitors through the chronological story of<br />
the Uprising (provided they don’t make any wrong turns,<br />
alas, a common mistake).<br />
Start off by learning about life under Nazi rule, your<br />
tour accompanied by the background rattle of machine<br />
guns, dive bombers and a thumping heartbeat.<br />
Different halls focus on the many aspects of the<br />
Uprising; walk through a replica radio station, or a<br />
covert printing press.<br />
The mezzanine level features film detailing the first month<br />
of battle, before which visitors get to clamber through a<br />
mock sewer. The final sections are devoted to the creation<br />
of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of remembrance,<br />
and a particularly poignant display about the destruction<br />
of the city; take time to watch the black and white ‘before<br />
and after’ shots of important <strong>Warsaw</strong> landmarks being<br />
systematically obliterated by the Nazis as punishment.<br />
Near the exit check out the film “City of Ruins,” a silenceinducing<br />
5 minute 3-D aerial ‘film’ which took 2 years<br />
to make and used old pictures and new technology to<br />
recreate a picture of the desolation of ‘liberated’ <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
in March 1945.<br />
There is also an exact replica of a B24 Allied plane once<br />
used to make supply drops over the besieged city. A viewing<br />
platform and ‘peace garden’ wrap up this high impact<br />
experience Q Open 08:00 - 18:00, Thu 08:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 14/10zł<br />
(children under 7 free). Mon free. Audio guides for 10zł<br />
per person. Film costs 2zł per person. Y<br />
Old Town Square, 1945<br />
Pasta B-3, ul. Zielna 37, www.pastadlamiasta.pl. A real<br />
city landmark, and unmistakable thanks to the great big red<br />
and white P attached to its roof. That P was a favoured sign<br />
of the insurgents, and the buildings importance to the Rising<br />
should not be underestimated. Built between 1904 and 1910<br />
this weird tower like structure - ramparts et al - operated as a<br />
telecommunications centre, a function it continued to serve<br />
under the Nazis. Heavily defended by bunkers and guard<br />
posts it was besieged for twenty two days by the Kilinski<br />
battalion of the Home Army before finally surrendering on the<br />
22nd. <strong>In</strong> 2000 Prime Minister Jerzy Buzek handed stewardship<br />
of the building to a combatants association, and today,<br />
among numerous other functions, the ground floors are home<br />
to the recommended ‘Na Zielnej’ restaurant.<br />
Prudential Tower B-3, ul. Świętokrzyska. The first building<br />
in <strong>Warsaw</strong> to surpass fifteen floors. Built using 1,250,000<br />
bricks <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s first true skyscraper became a major point<br />
of attack on opening day of the Rising, the symbolic meaning<br />
of a Polish flag on Poland’s tallest structure not lost on the<br />
insurgents. The Nazis shelled it heavily, and though it was<br />
gutted its prototype steel skeleton refused to topple. After the<br />
war the tower was given a thinner look, and for decades operated<br />
as the Hotel Warszawa. Closed in 2003, and currently in<br />
various stages of reconstruction courtesy of the Likus Group,<br />
the tower is due to be given a refit and new lease on life as<br />
both a hotel and top-class apartment block.<br />
Ruins of the Rising. Between 1939 and 1944 over 84<br />
percent of <strong>Warsaw</strong> was completely destroyed, with the city<br />
centre bearing the brunt of the damage. <strong>In</strong> spite of the Herculean<br />
rebuilding work that has since taken place, bullet scarred walls<br />
on pre-war tenements can still be found in relative abundance<br />
round the few parts of the centre that escaped total destruction.<br />
Perhaps most obvious of all is the building on ul. Waliców,<br />
featuring shell-pocked facades and a wall half-tumbling down.<br />
Sapper Monument (Pomnik Chwała Saperom)<br />
H-3, Park Marszałka Edwarda Śmigłego-Rydza. Designed<br />
by Stanisław Kulon and unveiled on May 8th, 1975,<br />
the monument to the sappers is a typically formidable<br />
piece of 70s brutalism. Designed to evoke the explosive<br />
blast of a landmine this seventeen metre high monstrosity<br />
commemorates the sappers who died defusing mines and<br />
booby traps in the years after the war. “Free <strong>Warsaw</strong> will<br />
never forget those who, with their pain and blood, started<br />
the work on her reconstruction” reads the accompanying<br />
plaque. The names and units of the sappers who died are<br />
listed on the pylons, as well as Polish-language descriptions<br />
of the hazardous work they undertook.<br />
WARSAW UPRISING<br />
Skaryszewski Park H-2. While the allied air lift to aid the<br />
Uprising proved a disaster, the heroism of the Commonwealth<br />
and Polish pilots who flew missions to relieve <strong>Warsaw</strong> cannot<br />
be called into question. Standing in Skaryszewski Park on<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>’s east bank is a memorial to commemorate these airmen.<br />
It was here that a Liberator plane crash landed in 1944,<br />
killing all but one of the seven crew on board. The sole survivor,<br />
Henry Lloyd Lyne, unveiled the monument in 1988, and today<br />
it is the sight of the British Embassy’s annual Remembrance<br />
service. <strong>In</strong> 2000 Lloyd Lyne, a retired farmer, was presented<br />
with a recovered piece of the plane by Queen Elizabeth II.<br />
The Little <strong>In</strong>surgent Monument (Pomnik Małego<br />
Powstańca) B-2, ul. Podwale. The communist authorities<br />
continually thwarted efforts to commemorate the Uprising,<br />
though by the early 80s cracks in their resolve were<br />
beginning to show. On October 1, 1983, the most poignant<br />
of all Uprising monuments was unveiled by the walls of the<br />
Barbakan. Designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz and funded by<br />
collections undertaken by scouts, the bronze installation<br />
shows the figure of a boy soldier clutching a Sten gun and<br />
weighed down by an adult-sized helmet. Commemorating the<br />
children who served as messengers and frontline troops, the<br />
figure is inspired by the story of 13 year old corporal Antek,<br />
himself killed in action close to the scene on August 8, 1944.<br />
Wola Massacre Statue (Pomnik Pamięci<br />
Ludności Woli Wymordowanej w Czasie Powstania<br />
1944) D-2, Pl. Solidarności. No other event captures<br />
the brutality of the Uprising better than the Wola Massacre.<br />
Between August 5 and August 6 the Nazis embarked on a<br />
savage bloodletting in an attempt to batter the Poles into<br />
submission. Led by Heinz Reinfarth and Oskar Dirlewanger, a<br />
despicable man with a history of sex crimes against minors,<br />
German units executed approximately 40,000 civilians in<br />
the Wola area of <strong>Warsaw</strong>. The massacre only came to a<br />
halt when Hitler himself intervened and declared all civilians<br />
be sent to concentration camps instead. While Dirlewanger<br />
was beaten to death by Poles after the war, Reinfarth and<br />
countless others evaded justice. The senseless slaughter<br />
is commemorated by an impressive monument dating from<br />
2006, designed by Ryszard Stryjecki and found practically<br />
opposite the Ibis hotel on Solidarności.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Uprising: Aug 1 - October 3<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
96 JEWISH WARSAW<br />
JEWISH WHAT WARSAW TO SEE<br />
Collection of Shalom Foundation by Gołda Tencer - Szurmiej<br />
At the time Hitler chose to expand Germany’s territories<br />
under the odious excuse of providing ‘living space’ for the<br />
German people, <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s Jewish population numbered<br />
350,000 and growing. Neither pogroms nor the occasional<br />
boycott of Jewish businesses deterred Jews from settling<br />
in the Polish capital and only New York could boast a larger<br />
Jewish community. Yet within six years <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s thriving<br />
Jewish scene was all but wiped from the map, with over<br />
90 percent perishing either in the Ghetto that or the gas<br />
chambers of Treblinka.<br />
Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare Poland was<br />
seen as a relative safe haven, and it drew settlers forced<br />
into flight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the<br />
inter-war years the Jewish population had made significant<br />
contributions to the social, political and cultural fabric of<br />
Poland, a contribution that would eventually be extinguished<br />
by the monstrous racial policies of the Nazis. When <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
fell following a brief yet brutal siege the city’s ancient Jewish<br />
population was damned to destruction. By 1940 Jews were<br />
forcibly penned into an area that already housed most of<br />
the Jewish population. On March 27, 1940, the Judenrat, a<br />
Jewish council answerable to the Nazi’s whims, was ordered<br />
to build a wall around the ghetto and a resettlement deadline<br />
of October 15 was handed to the city’s Jews. Failure to move<br />
into the assigned area was punishable by death. Spanning<br />
18 kilometres and enclosing 73 of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s 1,800 streets,<br />
the area was carved into a ‘small’ and ‘large’ ghetto, the two<br />
linked by a wooden bridge standing over ul. Chłodna (E-2).<br />
Today an installation titled ‘Footbridge of Memory’ stands at<br />
this spot, with optical fibers illuminating the former handrails<br />
over the street at night.<br />
From the beginning conditions in the city were harsh; recovered<br />
Nazi files show that while ethnic Germans were granted<br />
a food allowance totalling 2,613 calories per day, Jews and<br />
other groups deemed ‘sub-human’ were expected to survive<br />
on 184 calories. Unsurprisingly a black market supported by<br />
a smuggling network ran rife, with some 80 percent of the<br />
food in the ghetto supplied through illegal means. Still it was<br />
not enough and as the noose tightened starvation became<br />
the principal enemy. <strong>In</strong> 1941 over 100,000 died in this way,<br />
their bodies often left to rot in the streets. Of the 800 ghettos<br />
scattered around the Third Reich <strong>Warsaw</strong> was the largest<br />
and also the deadliest. At its zenith approximately 380,000<br />
residents found themselves squashed into the ghetto, with<br />
an average of eight people to a room. Yet amid this sea of<br />
suffering a remarkable social scene flourished, as proved<br />
by the meticulous ghetto diaries kept by Emanuel Ringelblum.<br />
Although murdered by the Nazis in 1944 Ringelblum,<br />
an intellectual and social activist, kept volumes of notes<br />
documenting the day-to-day life of ghetto inhabitants. It is<br />
from his painstaking notes we learn of the soup kitchens and<br />
charities that existed, of the musical concerts and cabarets<br />
and the fifty or so underground newspapers that circulated<br />
amongst the masses.<br />
The illusion of a self-contained cruel but surviving parallel<br />
world was shattered in 1942 when the Wansee Conference<br />
rubber-stamped plans for the ‘final solution to the Jewish<br />
question’ and the first deportations to death camps began<br />
in July. Over the next few weeks around 265,000 Jews were<br />
harried to a waiting area known as Umschlagplatz, from<br />
which they were loaded into cattle wagons destined for the<br />
Treblinka gas chambers. A year later a new action to thin<br />
the ghetto was launched, and by April 1943 a final push<br />
to completely liquidate the biggest ghetto began. For too<br />
long the Jews had been limited to passive resistance, but<br />
now with rumours circulating about death camps a band of<br />
ill-equipped insurgents faced up to the full weight of the Nazi<br />
military machine. Led by Mordechaj Anielewicz, the Jewish<br />
Fighting Organization (ŻOB) launched the Ghetto Uprising on<br />
April 19, 1943. Numbering a few hundred the Jewish fighters<br />
continued their dogged resistance, but faced with heavy artillery<br />
and even Stuka Dive Bombers it was a doomed struggle.<br />
Vicious street-to-street, house-to-house battles ensued, with<br />
insurgents often burnt out of their boltholes by flamethrowers<br />
and gas. On May 8 German forces surrounded the principal<br />
command post of the rebels on ul. Miła 18 and rather than<br />
face capture Anielewicz and his cabal opted for mass suicide.<br />
By May 16 the Uprising was over, with German commander<br />
Jurgen Stroop announcing, “The former Jewish quarter of<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> is no longer in existence.” With the fighting over the<br />
rest of the ghetto was levelled, and its inmates either sent<br />
to Treblinka or assigned to Gęsiówka (ul. Gęsia), a small<br />
concentration camp. It is estimated that some 15,000 Jews<br />
survived the war hiding out on the Aryan side, but with the<br />
war over and the vitriolic anti-Zionist policies of the post-war<br />
government the majority sought a new life in Israel. Today<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>’s Jewish population is estimated to stand at 2,000<br />
and efforts are underway to gradually reintroduce the city’s<br />
hollowed out Jewish culture.<br />
Collection of Shalom Foundation by Gołda Tencer -<br />
Szurmiej<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Heroes in Horror<br />
Sometimes it takes tragedy to create heroes. This is never<br />
truer than with the Holocaust, a black time where Nazi terror<br />
was answered with dignity and courage. Anti-Semitism was<br />
common in pre-war Poland (in fact so clear was this divide<br />
that the inter-war years saw seated segregation in such grand<br />
institutions as the local university) and under Nazi occupation<br />
collaboration was commonplace - denouncing Jews and revealing<br />
hiding places brought considerable financial reward.<br />
Worse still, there were several instances of Poles actively<br />
taking part in pogroms and ‘Jew hunts,’ the most notorious<br />
occurring in the town of Jedwabne in 1941. It was here on<br />
the 10th of July that a mob of Poles rounded up nearly 400<br />
Jews and marching them to a barn which was subsequently<br />
torched. It’s a shameful episode in Polish history, and one<br />
immortalized in Jan Gross’s book Neighbours. Nevertheless,<br />
such events should be offset by stories of those who<br />
risked life and limb to help the persecuted. Poland was at<br />
the forefront of Nazi terror, and the punishment for sheltering<br />
Jews was death. The policy was unique in the occupied<br />
territories, and ruthlessly enforced. Even so, it is estimated<br />
that over three million Poles actively helped Jews to survive<br />
and Yad Vashem has recognized over 6,000 Poles as being<br />
‘Righteous Among Nations’ - more than in any other country.<br />
<strong>In</strong> Rozwadow Dr.Eugeniusz Lazowski, a graduate of <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
University, is credited with saving approximately 8,000 Jews after<br />
putting his medical knowledge to use. Having injected the town’s<br />
Jews with a benign form of typhus he then informed the Nazis<br />
that an epidemic was at large. Terrified that it would spread, the<br />
Nazis quarantined the town and left it to its own devices. Known<br />
as ‘the Polish Schindler,’ Lazowski saved 12 ghetto communities<br />
in this crafty manner. “I was not able to fight with a gun or<br />
a sword,” Lazowski said. “But I was able to find a way to scare<br />
the Germans.” <strong>In</strong> Krakow a gentile pharmacist named Tadeusz<br />
Pankiewicz was given special dispensation to remain in the ghetto<br />
and exploited this to lend aid to the Jews. Medicine and vaccines<br />
were distributed for free, and his pharmacy - now a museum -<br />
came to double as a centre of underground activity. Regarded<br />
as a hero, Pankiewicz’s role in the Holocaust is remembered in<br />
Thomas Kenneally’s epic Schindler’s List.<br />
Another doctor, Irena Sendler, is credited with rescuing over<br />
2,500 Jews from the <strong>Warsaw</strong> ghetto. Born in 1910, Sendler had<br />
a long history of sympathising with the plight of the Jews and<br />
was suspended for three years from <strong>Warsaw</strong> University after<br />
voicing her vociferous opposition to segregated benches and<br />
was active in the underground the moment the war broke out.<br />
Aided by her colleagues she forged over 3,000 documents to<br />
help Jewish families, and later headed the children’s section of<br />
Zegota - a secret organization that was a ‘Council to Aid Jews.’<br />
Using the fierce-looking court building on Solidarnosci as her<br />
bridge from the ghetto to freedom she smuggled countless<br />
children inside parcels and boxes. The children were then sent<br />
to live in convents and rectories, but not before she recorded<br />
their identities in a glass jar she kept buried at home. Her actions<br />
aroused the attention of the Gestapo, and in 1943 she was<br />
arrested, tortured and sentenced to death. A bribe from Zegota<br />
saved her life, but nonetheless she was left unconscious in a<br />
forest, with both her arms and legs broken. She was officially<br />
declared dead by the Germans, and spent the rest of the war in<br />
hiding. But even peace brought no respite; she was persecuted<br />
by the communist authorities on account of her wartime relations<br />
with the exiled government, and faced constant harassment.<br />
<strong>In</strong> 2003 Pope John Paul II sent her a letter praising her<br />
for courage, and later that year she was awarded the Order of<br />
the White Eagle - Poland’s highest civilian decoration. She died<br />
in 2008, though even now remains a target of hate for some; in<br />
July 2010 her grave was vandalized with the words ‘Jews Out.’<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
I can still see their faces<br />
I can still see their faces (I ciągle widzę ich twarze)<br />
B-3, ul. Próżna. The Holocaust and the subsequent<br />
destruction of <strong>Warsaw</strong> in WWII erased virtually all remnants<br />
of the bustling pre-war Jewish community’s presence in the<br />
city, but there is one place where it is still possible to sense<br />
this lost age. There are two rows of dilapidated tenement<br />
houses dating from 1880-1900 on ul. Próżna (B-3) showing<br />
what <strong>Warsaw</strong> must have looked like, and adding to this is a<br />
series of giant posters hanging outside the buildings that<br />
depict members of the disappeared Jewish community.<br />
These photos are there thanks to a project called ‘I ciągle<br />
widzę ich twarze’ (I can still see their faces) which was created<br />
by Gołda Tencer, a Polish actress with Jewish origins who is<br />
the founder and director of the Shalom Foundation. <strong>In</strong> 1994<br />
she appealed to people to send in photographs of Polish<br />
Jews so that an exhibition could be created commemorating<br />
those who died. The incredible response netted over 9,000<br />
photographs, some from survivors and their families, some<br />
from Polish neighbours or friends of those killed. Then in<br />
2008 the ‘I can still see their faces exhibition’ was mounted<br />
in ul. Próżna as part of the commemorations of the 65th anniversary<br />
of the Ghetto Uprising. The effect is quite stunning,<br />
particularly when you consider this street was once bustling<br />
with life, full of traders, stores and Jewish families. Located<br />
in the heart of a now modern city, this really is a place worth<br />
a moment of your time, especially since the tenements are<br />
set to be demolished soon as part of major renovations to the<br />
street (one side of the building has already seen the photos<br />
removed, but the other side remains intact).<br />
Finally, Jan Karski is remembered in the history books as the man<br />
who tried to stop the Holocaust. Born in Lodz in 1914, Karski’s<br />
photographic memory and fluent command of foreign languages<br />
caught the attention of the Polish diplomatic services, landing him<br />
prestigious posts abroad. With Europe gearing up for war Karski<br />
joined the horse artillery, with his unit captured by the Red Army.<br />
Karski avoided death in the forests of Katyn when he escaped<br />
from a train transporting him to a POW camp and headed to<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> to join the Polish underground. Realizing the value of his<br />
remarkable memory his superiors employed Karski as a courier, a<br />
perilous position that involved crossing frontlines in order to swap<br />
information with allies. One such foray saw him captured by the<br />
Gestapo while crossing the Slovakian Tatra Mountains. He slit<br />
his wrists following an intense bout of torture, and was locked in<br />
a closely guarded hospital in Nowy Sacz. Determined not to lose<br />
their star courier a crack team of Polish troops broke him out and<br />
Karski resumed his duties. <strong>In</strong> 1942 he was chosen to undertake<br />
a daring mission to meet Wladyslaw Sikorski - Prime Minister of<br />
Poland’s government-in-exile - in London, the purpose being to<br />
reveal the extent of German atrocities in occupied Poland. To<br />
gather information he was smuggled into the <strong>Warsaw</strong> ghetto<br />
and given a graphic tour of the hunger and horror manifesting<br />
behind the walls. The experience proved so powerful that Karski<br />
later found himself questioning his own memory and decided a<br />
second visit was in order to convince him that what he had seen<br />
was real. This time, disguised as a Ukrainian guard, he infiltrated<br />
a transit camp in Izbica and witnessed random brutalities as well<br />
as cattle wagon transports leading Jews to the gas chambers. He<br />
successfully made it to England and was granted an audience with<br />
foreign secretary Antony Eden as well as Sikorski and the leader<br />
of the Jewish Bun. Maddeningly, his testimonies fell on deaf ears.<br />
<strong>In</strong> the following decades his attempt to stop the Holocaust was<br />
allowed to gather dust, and only came to public attention with<br />
the release of the 1978 epic film Shoah. He died in 2000, eight<br />
years after his Jewish/Polish wife, herself a Holocaust survivor,<br />
committed suicide.<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
97
98<br />
JEWISH WARSAW<br />
What to See<br />
A Footbridge of Memory D-2, <strong>In</strong>tersection of ul.<br />
Chłodna and ul. Żelazna. One of the most recognisable<br />
images of the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Ghetto is that of the footbridge<br />
constructed over ul. Chłodna to connect the large and small<br />
ghettos. To commemorate that spot is one of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s<br />
newest memorials: a pair of metal poles connected via<br />
optical fibers which, after the sun sets, project the shape of<br />
the footbridge over the road via light. Designed by Tomasz<br />
Tusch-Lec and installed in September 2011, the memorial<br />
also has viewing windows inside the poles where visitors can<br />
flip through images of life in the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Ghetto.<br />
Jewish Cemetery (Cmentarz Żydowski) D-1, ul.<br />
Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www.beisolam.jewish.org.pl.<br />
A beautiful and poignant place to visit.<br />
The cemetery was originally founded in 1806 and currently<br />
houses around 250,000 tombs. Amongst those buried here<br />
are Ludwik Zamenhof, inventor of the international language<br />
Esperanto. Q Open from 10:00 till dusk, Fri 09:00 - 13:00,<br />
Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission 8zł.<br />
Jewish Historical <strong>In</strong>stitute (Żydowski <strong>In</strong>stytut<br />
Historyczny im. Emanuela Ringelbluma) B-2, ul.<br />
Tłomackie 3/5, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl.<br />
A chilling recollection of Polish Jewry and the only institution<br />
in Poland focusing entirely on the study of the history and<br />
culture of the Polish Jews. This amazing building houses<br />
permanent and temporary exhibits relating to secular and<br />
religious Jewish life in the country from its beginnings to the<br />
annihilation during WWII and beyond. As well as an excellent<br />
bookshop, the institute’s museum, opened in 1948, features<br />
a large interactive display in the entrance hall that allows its<br />
users to find out about Jewish life in any part of the country, an<br />
extraordinary <strong>Warsaw</strong> Ghetto exhibition, religious treasures,<br />
an archive and a small cinema. Particularly poignant is the<br />
collection of photographs taken in the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Ghetto by Heinz<br />
Jost, a German innkeeper who served in the German army and<br />
whose photographs speak volumes about the era. Essential<br />
visiting. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat.<br />
Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5zł. Y<br />
Jewish Museum (Muzeum Historii Żydów<br />
Polskich) C-3, ul. Warecka 4/6 (entrance from ul.<br />
Kubusia Puchatka), tel. (+48) 22 471 03 00, www.<br />
jewishmuseum.org.pl. This place promises to be one of the<br />
city’s biggest and best museums when it officially opens in<br />
December 2013 (temporary exhibits and a cinema will open<br />
this April). Currently being built at vast expense in what was<br />
the Jewish Ghetto during World War II, the museum will tell<br />
the story of Jews in Poland, and will also serve as a centre for<br />
geneology, making the tracing of relatives easier than ever<br />
before. A recent donation of 20 million zlotys from Poland’s<br />
wealthiest citizen, oil mogul Jan Kulczyk, is earmarked for<br />
the creation of the museum’s vast permanent exhibition.<br />
Note that this address is the museum’s office, not the future<br />
location of the museum. For up-to-date information visit their<br />
website and Facebook page.<br />
Monument to the Ghetto Heroes (Pomnik Bohaterów<br />
Getta) A-1, ul. Zamenhofa. Designed by Natan<br />
Rappaport, the monument pays tribute to the heroes of the<br />
Ghetto Uprising of 1943. Found between (E-1) ul. Anielewicza,<br />
Zamenhofa, Lewartowskiego and Karmelicka it is here that<br />
the heaviest fighting took place. <strong>In</strong> an ironic quirk, the stone<br />
cladding on the monument was originally ordered from<br />
Sweden by Hitler for a victory arch.<br />
Nożyk Synagogue (Synagoga Nożyków) E-3, ul.<br />
Twarda 6, tel. (+48) 22 620 43 24, www.warszawa.<br />
jewish.org.pl. Built between 1898 and 1902 in a neo-<br />
Romanesque style, this was the only <strong>Warsaw</strong> synagogue to<br />
survive the ravages of war. It was fully restored between 1977<br />
and 1983. Now open for worship. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Fri<br />
09:00 - 13:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat. No visiting<br />
during services. Groups of more than ten should reserve in<br />
advance. Admission 6zł.<br />
Traces of the Ghetto. Following the Ghetto Uprising the<br />
whole area was levelled so few traces remain. If you duck into<br />
the courtyard at (E-3) ul. Sienna 55 you will see a remaining<br />
part of the ghetto wall complete with a commemorative<br />
plaque. Somewhat impressively, the local government have<br />
decided to honour <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s Holocaust history by introducing<br />
a ‘ghetto trail’. Developed with the help of the Jewish Historical<br />
<strong>In</strong>stitute the route has seen the boundary of the former<br />
Ghetto outlined on pavements, as well as the appearance<br />
of 21 dual language information boards positioned in places<br />
of particular interest. Maps of the ghetto are available from<br />
the Jewish Historical <strong>In</strong>stitute for 10zl.<br />
Umschlagplatz E-1. Found on ul. Stawki (E-1), close to<br />
the intersection with ul. Dzika, Umschlagplatz is a bleak,<br />
slightly disappointing monument marking the spot where<br />
around 300,000 Jews were loaded on cattle wagons bound<br />
for Treblinka. The Nazi commandant in charge of the deportations<br />
lived directly opposite on ul. Stawki 5/7. Lying between<br />
Umschlagplatz and the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes lies<br />
the legendary monument labelled Miła 18 (note: this is not<br />
the address where you can find the monument). Essentially<br />
no more than a symbolic grassy knoll, it marks the spot from<br />
where the Ghetto Uprising was directed.<br />
Willy Brandt Statue A-2, Skwer Willy Brandta. On<br />
December 7, 1970 images were flashed across the world<br />
of German Chancellor Willy Brandt knelt in pensive apology<br />
in front of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s Monument to the Ghetto Heroes.<br />
Popularly known as the ‘kniefall’ the spontaneous gesture<br />
was to become a symbol of reconciliation between east<br />
and west, with Brandt later confessing, “Under the weight<br />
of German history, and carrying the burden of the millions<br />
who were murdered, I did what people do when words fail<br />
them.” A monument commemorating his landmark act was<br />
unveiled 30 years later in the north east corner of the park<br />
that houses the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes. Made<br />
of brick, and featuring a brass relief designed by Wiktoria<br />
Czechowska Antoniewska, the monument was unveiled<br />
by a delegation that included Brandt’s widow, Danzig-born<br />
author Gunter Grass, Chancellor Gerhard Schroeder and<br />
Polish Prime Minister Jerzy Buzek. The square in which it<br />
is located has also since been named in honour of Brandt.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
For the overwhelming majority of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s wartime Jews<br />
their journey was destined to end in one place, a hitherto<br />
unknown village called Treblinka. Set 100 kilometres north<br />
east of <strong>Warsaw</strong> this small rural community would find itself<br />
unwittingly thrust into the eye of the Holocaust, its name<br />
forever etched in mankind’s roll of shame.<br />
Getting There<br />
Treblinka remains a backwater town, and as such travellers<br />
are going struggle to reach it. Put simply, either hire a car<br />
and fire up the GPS, or contact one of the <strong>Warsaw</strong>-based<br />
tour companies listed in the Sightseeing section who will be<br />
happy to tailor a visit for you. Alternatively, hire a six person<br />
minibus for 250zł - call 604 89 63 97 for further details.<br />
History<br />
Split into two separate sections, Treblinka I and Treblinka II,<br />
Treblinka I was originally established in the summer of 1941<br />
and functioned as a Polish slave labour camp. Treblinka II,<br />
the death camp, opened the following year, receiving its first<br />
human cargo on July 22, 1942. It was designed for the sole<br />
purpose of murder, a function it fulfilled well. Measuring 400<br />
by 600 metres and surrounded with barbed wire fences and<br />
watchtowers, the camp was carefully blended into the heavily<br />
wooded landscape in an effort to mask its existence. Consisting<br />
of a barracks, an armoury and storage areas, the camp<br />
also had a fenced off living area housing 1,000 Jews employed<br />
to clear bodies, hammer out teeth and shave hair. It was also<br />
home to the reception area, where cattle wagons loaded with<br />
Jews would screech to a halt. Built to resemble a legitimate<br />
train station, it was decorated with clocks, timetables, posters<br />
and even an infirmary replete with a Red Cross banner. <strong>In</strong><br />
actual fact the infirmary was no more than a sinister façade to<br />
an execution pit, used to murder prisoners too weak to march<br />
to the gas chambers.<br />
Having been stripped naked, arrivals at Treblinka I were<br />
then herded up the tube, a fenced off path leading to the<br />
‘shower block’. It was here that prisoners were ushered into<br />
gas chambers disguised as bathhouses. Carbon monoxide<br />
would then be piped through showerheads, taking as long<br />
as half an hour to asphyxiate those locked inside. At the<br />
height of the killing process up to 20 railway carriages could<br />
be processed within a period of one to two hours. At first<br />
bodies were simply buried in mass graves but by 1943, in<br />
an attempt to conceal all traces of genocide, corpses were<br />
cremated on massive pyres.<br />
Several escape attempts were launched by the permanent<br />
staff of Jewish prisoners, with the biggest coming on August<br />
2, 1943. Having obtained a key to the armoury, a core of<br />
around 70 prisoners aimed to storm the Nazi barricades,<br />
liberate the other prisoners and flee to the forests. The plan<br />
was disrupted when an SS officer, Kurt Kuttner, noticed the<br />
rebels raiding the munitions store. He was killed on the spot,<br />
but the shots alerted the other guards who launched a swift<br />
counter-action. <strong>In</strong> the brief but fierce gun battle that followed<br />
many buildings were torched, but only a handful of prisoners<br />
succeeded in escaping.<br />
Following the uprising, and a similar one at Sobibor, Himmler<br />
took the decision to close down the Aktion Reinhard<br />
death camps. By October 4, 1943 Treblinka was levelled,<br />
reforested and a family of Ukrainian peasants re-settled<br />
on the adjacent farmland. Although it is impossible to<br />
place an accurate figure on the number of people slaughtered,<br />
conservative estimates suggest that anything from<br />
700,000 to 900,000 people were murdered during the<br />
camp’s existence. Of the number of Jews who passed<br />
through its gates it is thought that fewer than 100 lived to<br />
see the end of the war.<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
TREBLINKA<br />
Following the war several German and Ukrainian guards<br />
were charged with crimes relating to their time at Treblinka.<br />
Most escaped with light sentences ranging from three to<br />
twelve years. The camp commander, Franz Stangl, fled to<br />
Syria and from there to Brazil, until he was finally extradited<br />
to face justice in 1970. He died in prison the following year,<br />
apparently unrepentant.<br />
What to See<br />
What is there to see? Well, not much. The Nazis did a deft<br />
job of erasing their crimes, and visitors will require a vivid<br />
imagination so as to picture what was. Nevertheless, with<br />
some prior knowledge your bumpy journey will be ultimately<br />
rewarded; what Treblinka lacks in physical sites it makes up<br />
for with sheer skin-prickling menace, and a trip out here is<br />
sure to leave you pondering for some time.<br />
Stock up on literature at the car park hut before making your<br />
way to the small exhibition house. Set across two rooms<br />
visitors will find a series of items recovered from the site -<br />
torah scrolls, cutlery, coins and other keepsakes - as well<br />
as a few period photographs illustrating life at the camp.<br />
However, the real pull here is the scale model, an intricate<br />
work which really brings the grounds to life - details here<br />
include a zoo built for the enjoyment of the SS, a Disneystyle<br />
stone tower and the neatly trimmed flower beds<br />
past which Jews would have filed on their way to the gas<br />
chambers. It’s a fascinating work, and one which provides<br />
plenty of pause for thought.<br />
Back outside, a trail of symbolic train tracks show the<br />
route trains from <strong>Warsaw</strong> would have followed before<br />
finally terminating at Treblinka platform. For the Jews<br />
crammed inside the cattle wagons this represented the<br />
last stop in their persecution. Then, directly up ahead,<br />
comes the climax of the camp - marking the execution<br />
grounds lie hundreds of jagged memorial stones, each<br />
one inscribed with the name of a lost community. It’s<br />
among these - to the left of your approach - you’ll find<br />
the only stone dedicated to a person. That man is Janusz<br />
Korczak, a pedagogue and author who famously turned<br />
down safe passage from the ghetto in order to stay with<br />
the orphaned children entrusted in his care. His most<br />
famous work is the children’s tale King Matt the First (Król<br />
Maciuś Pierwszy), the adventure story of a young king.<br />
As well as telling the story of how the young king deals<br />
with the challenges of power in a bygone age, it is also a<br />
thinly veiled representation of historical events in Poland<br />
and describes a number of the social reforms the young<br />
king introduces, many targeting children and many of which<br />
Korczak himself introduced at his orphanage. While some<br />
of the language might be considered politically incorrect<br />
90 years on it is a fascinating book and one that children<br />
today can still enjoy immensely.<br />
Marking the site of the gas chamber stands an overpowering<br />
monument designed by Franciszek Duszenki, a message in<br />
front of it simply stating: “Never Again.” It’s an eerie experience,<br />
and the sense of evil palpable. However, there is also<br />
more. Unknown to many, a second camp also functioned<br />
at Treblinka, a labour camp primarily populated by Poles.<br />
Continuing through the route cut through the forest, a stony<br />
path leads past a concrete guard bunker before culminating<br />
at the vast gravel pit where up to 2,000 Poles were forced into<br />
back breaking work. <strong>In</strong> the field further on concrete flooring<br />
and some foundations mark the outline of former prisoner<br />
barracks, while a number of crosses denote what was once<br />
the execution grounds. Ultimately haunting, Treblinka is a<br />
must see for anyone with a passing interest in modern history<br />
- absent are the endless exhibits of Auschwitz, yet even<br />
without these this place has a high impact factor which will<br />
leave visitors silent.<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
99
100 ŁAZIENKI WHAT ŁAZIENKI TO SEE<br />
© Muzeum Łazienki Królewskie w Warszawie<br />
Anyone who still thinks that <strong>Warsaw</strong> is a city of concrete and<br />
cement has clearly never been to the city’s lung, the incomparable<br />
Łazienki Park (G-4). Quite simply, this glorious, 17th<br />
century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of the jewels<br />
in Poland’s crown, which might explain why half of <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
chooses to spend its summer Sundays here. Fear not though,<br />
for so big is Łazienki that it never gives the impression of being<br />
crowded, and even on the busiest of days you will always<br />
be able to find a quiet, shady corner somewhere.<br />
Belvedere Palace (Belweder) G-5, ul. Belwederska<br />
56. Head next for the Belvedere Palace residence of the<br />
Polish President from 1918 to 1995 (Presidents Aleksander<br />
Kwaśniewski and Lech Kaczyński opting to live in the<br />
Presidential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście) this is<br />
once again the <strong>Warsaw</strong> residence of the Polish president<br />
(now Bronisław Komorowski). Built in 1694 but thoroughly<br />
remodelled in 1818, the building is predictably off limits. For<br />
the best views of the palace and some outstanding photo<br />
opportunities you should look at it from Al. Ujazdowskie: it is<br />
a wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete with tympanium<br />
and oversized Corinthian columns.<br />
Chopin Monument & Temple of Sibyl (Pomnik<br />
Chopina i Świątynia Diany) G-4. On entering the park<br />
proper, make your first port of call the Chopin Monument,<br />
sculpted by Witold Szymanowski and unveiled in 1926. It<br />
depicts Chopin sitting right here in Łazienki, next to a willow<br />
tree. The original sculpture was destroyed during WWII, and<br />
the one we admire today went up in 1958. During the summer<br />
impressive concerts take place around the statue almost<br />
every Sunday. Almost hidden in the trees a few metres from<br />
Chopin is the astonishing Temple of the Sibyl (closed to the<br />
public), an 1820s replica Greek Temple built entirely of wood.<br />
Look out too for a gaggle of other little buildings here such<br />
as the Hermitage, the Egyptian Temple and the Water<br />
Tower. None are currently open to the public.<br />
Łazienki Park (Park Łazienkowski) G-4, ul. Agrykoli<br />
1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienki-krolewskie.<br />
pl. The name Łazienki means baths and is derived from the<br />
park’s centrepiece and best-known attraction, the Palace on<br />
the Island. The palace was originally built in the 17th century<br />
as a private bathhouse for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski,<br />
owner of the adjacent Ujazdów Castle and much of the surrounding<br />
land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The<br />
bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisław<br />
August Poniatowski, in 1772 and converted into a private<br />
residence (and taking the name Palace on the Island). It<br />
was at this time that the grounds were formally laid out as<br />
a private garden, most of the landscaping being carried out<br />
to the designs of Karol Ludwig Agricola and Karol Schultz.<br />
Today dotted with many palaces (big and small), summer<br />
houses, pavilions, mansions, cafes, restaurants, lakes and<br />
theatres, Łazienki offers much to see and to make the best<br />
of it you should plan to spend a full day here.<br />
One word of warning however before you pack a picnic and the<br />
cricket set: Łazienki, for all its charms, is further evidence of the<br />
fact that many Central Europeans have never quite grasped the<br />
idea of what parks are actually for. With superbly kept grass at<br />
every turn, perfect for picnics, pick up games of cricket, softball,<br />
football or whatever else it is people get up to in parks in the<br />
western world, Łazienki takes a very stern ‘look but don’t touch’<br />
attitude when it comes to its lawns. If you don’t believe us, try<br />
sitting on a Łazienki lawn and see what happens. That said, the<br />
park has recently added two zones where you’re allowed to have<br />
a picnic. Progress! Q Open from dawn till dusk.<br />
Museum of Hunting and Horsemanship (Muzeum<br />
Łowiectwa i Jeździectwa) H-4, ul. Szwoleżerów 9,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 522 66 30, www.muzeum.warszawa.pl.<br />
North of the Palace on the Island, the Museum of Hunting &<br />
Horsemanship is worth a quick visit. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.<br />
Admission 3-8/2-5zł. Thu free. Y<br />
© Muzeum Łazienki Królewskie w Warszawie<br />
Getting there<br />
Any number of buses stop in front of the park’s three<br />
main entrances, on Al. Ujazdowskie, including Nos.<br />
116, 166, 180 and 195. From the city centre however<br />
perhaps the easiest way of reaching Łazienki is to take<br />
a tram from Centrum to Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, and walk 100<br />
metres along Bagatela to the park’s southern entrance,<br />
in front of the Belvedere Palace. Orientation around the<br />
park is relatively easy given the prominent placement of<br />
maps and signs - in Polish and English - in key locations.<br />
There is also a very good Łazienki complex map (again,<br />
in Polish and English) which can be picked up for free from<br />
the Palace on the Water or any of the museums in the<br />
park. If you enter the park via any of the entrances on<br />
Al. Ujazdowskie, chances are you will end up, willingly or<br />
not, via some surprisingly hilly paths set with tall trees,<br />
at the vast artificial lake in the park’s centre, straddled<br />
by the magnificent Palace on the Island. <strong>In</strong> doing so<br />
however, you risk missing out on a few treasures, so try<br />
to circumnavigate the park instead.<br />
While you can buy tickets for each Łazienki attraction<br />
individually, you can also purchase a one-day ticket or<br />
two-days combined ticket which offers single-access<br />
to a chunk of the attractions (Ujazdowski Castle, The<br />
Museum of Hunting and Horsemanship and the Botanical<br />
Garden are not among them). A one-day ticket 20/10zł,<br />
two-days tickets 25/15zł.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Myślewicki Palace (Pałac Myślewicki) H-4, ul.<br />
Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienkikrolewskie.pl.<br />
Make sure you have time too for a guided<br />
tour of the magnificent, semi-circular and recently restored<br />
Myślewicki Palace. The residence of the king’s nephew,<br />
Józef Poniatowski, the palace is very much ‘as was’ complete<br />
with original murals, furniture and art. Q Open 09:00<br />
- 16:00, Mon 11:00 - 16:00. Closed every last Mon of the<br />
month. Admission 6/4zł. Thu free. Guided tours in English<br />
70zł per group.<br />
Palace on the Island (Pałac na Wyspie) G-4, ul.<br />
Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienkikrolewskie.pl.<br />
The Palace on the Island is Łazienki’s raison<br />
d’etre. The palace - completed in 1683 to designs by Tylman<br />
Gamerski - was originally a bathhouse, converted into a<br />
residence in the late 1700s (after being bought by Stanisław<br />
August Poniatowski). The palace is built on an artificial<br />
island that divides the lake into two parts, and is connected<br />
to the surrounding park by two colonnaded bridges. The<br />
façades are unified by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its<br />
two floors and are crowned by a balustrade that bears statues<br />
of mythological figures. The northern façade is relieved<br />
by a striking central portico, while the southern façade’s<br />
deep central recess lies behind a screen of Corinthian<br />
columns. Today a museum, almost all of the palace can<br />
be visited, including the main reception room, Solomon’s<br />
Hall, decorated in the most extravagant of Baroque styles<br />
with a series of paintings depicting the History of Solomon.<br />
They were executed for King Stanisław Augustus in 1791-93<br />
by Marcello Bacciarelli and depicted the monarch himself<br />
as the biblical king. Many of the king’s personal rooms are<br />
also open to the public, set in their original context. To get<br />
the best out of the palace we recommend taking one of<br />
the excellent guided tours (call ahead to book such a tour).<br />
Q Open 09:00 - 16:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Mon<br />
11:00 -16:00. Closed every last Mon of the month. Admission<br />
15/10zł. Thu free. Guides 100zł per group up to 25<br />
people. To arrange guide call 22 50 60 028.<br />
Theatre on the Island (Amfiteatr) G-4. Crossing the<br />
tail of the serpentine lake, follow the path that leads along the<br />
embankment until you hit the Amphitheatre, also known as<br />
the Theatre on the Island. Built to resemble the amphitheatre<br />
at Herculaneum, the theatre hosts productions throughout<br />
the summer, though unless you fancy seeing Henry V in Polish<br />
these will hold little interest for foreign visitors. (There<br />
are exceptions: ballet and contemporary dance sometimes<br />
get put on here).<br />
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/<br />
CSW) (Centrum Sztuki Współczesnej Zamek<br />
Ujazdowski) G-4, ul. Jazdów 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 64<br />
08, www.csw.art.pl. A castle of some description has<br />
been on found on this site since the time of the Masovian<br />
Dukes (1300s), but the Ujazdowski Castle we see today<br />
was completed in a baroque style in 1730 for Stanisław<br />
Herakliusz Lubomirski (it was his bathhouse that later<br />
became the Palace on the Island and gave Łazienki park<br />
its name). Ujazdowski survived two centuries before being<br />
gutted by fire during WWII, and was indeed lucky to<br />
escape total destruction: the retreating Nazis actually tried<br />
to blow it to pieces, as they did a number of Łazienki’s<br />
finest buildings. But - as is so often the case - what the<br />
Nazis couldn’t do the communists could, and though the<br />
original walls and foundations remained structurally sound<br />
in the 1950s Poland’s communist authorities decided to<br />
tear down the shell of the building and place a military<br />
theatre on the site. Common sense prevailed however, and<br />
the 1970s saw Ujazdowski rebuilt to its original plans. It<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
today plays host to three large exhibition halls dedicated<br />
to showcasing the very best of contemporary art inside;<br />
find a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, featuring<br />
the work of Poland’s leading contemporary artists<br />
here. Worthy and undoubtedly necessary, the gallery<br />
also houses a very good bookshop and a café, which has<br />
a terrace whose views over the park, <strong>Warsaw</strong> and what<br />
appears to be half of Poland are jaw dropping. One not<br />
to miss. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed<br />
Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission<br />
12/6zł, Thu free.<br />
White House & Orangery (Biały Dom i Stara<br />
Pomarańczarnia) G-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22<br />
506 01 01, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Not quite<br />
as grand as the Belvedere but equally impressive is the<br />
little White House a gorgeous summer house built in<br />
1774 for the king’s sisters which displays a fine collection<br />
of period furniture and decorations (will is currently<br />
closed during the winter season). A few steps away is<br />
the impressive Old Orangery, one of very few surviving<br />
court theatres in the world. It dates from 1774 and is still<br />
used today to host chamber concerts, as well as being a<br />
popular wedding venue for <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s wealthy. Part of the<br />
building houses a museum of sculpture. From here head<br />
back past the White House, resist the temptation to head<br />
straight for the Palace on the Island and instead head<br />
south, towards the New Orangery. Built in cast iron and<br />
glass it was designed by Józef Orłowski and opened in<br />
1861. It is home to the upmarket Belvedere restaurant,<br />
which is currently closed for renovations. Q Open 09:00<br />
- 16:00, Mon 11:00 - 16:00. Closed every last Mon of<br />
the month. Admission 10/5zł. Thu free. Guided tours in<br />
English 70zł per group.<br />
© Muzeum Łazienki Królewskie w Warszawie<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
101
102 WILANÓW<br />
WHAT WILANÓW TO SEE<br />
© The Wilanów Palace Museum, author: Magdalena Kulpa<br />
It is very easy to visit <strong>Warsaw</strong> and imagine its history<br />
stretches no further back than the communist post-war<br />
era and that of WWII when the city was effectively wiped<br />
from the map of Europe. But that would be to only understand<br />
a small part of this city’s and country’s history. The<br />
nation’s capital has been in <strong>Warsaw</strong> since the late 16th<br />
century and at one time was the centre of the burgeoning<br />
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, a union which lasted over<br />
200 years and whose territory at once stretched from the<br />
Baltic to the Black Sea (incorporating much of modern day<br />
Poland, Ukraine, Belarus and the Baltic States). With so<br />
much of pre-war <strong>Warsaw</strong> destroyed there are few places<br />
to experience what this must have been like more than at<br />
Wilanow’s palace and gardens.<br />
The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers<br />
applied to this splendid late 17th-century Palace which can<br />
be found in the <strong>Warsaw</strong> district of Wilanów, 10 kilometres<br />
south of the city centre. Essential visiting for all who come to<br />
soak up the capital’s lavish culture and wish to understand<br />
a little more about ancient Poland, Wilanów is more than<br />
just a Palace - it represents an era from which much has<br />
been lost. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of<br />
buildings represent the height of Polish Baroque and this is<br />
one of Poland’s greatest national treasures.The sprawling<br />
45-hectare setting is also full of things to do, from visiting<br />
the superb Poster Museum next door to renting a rowing<br />
boat on the Palace’s lake. If the weather’s good and you’ve<br />
got time to spare, it’s easy to spend an entire and thoroughly<br />
rewarding day here.<br />
History<br />
Wilanów gets its name from the <strong>Warsaw</strong> borough in which<br />
Wilanów Palace is located. First mentioned in the 13th<br />
century as Milanów, the then tiny village changed hands<br />
several times before being bought in the 17th century by<br />
the family of Stanisław Leszczyński. Leszczyński began<br />
building a Palace here, but the project was halted by the<br />
Deluge and the subsequent capture and plundering of the<br />
region by the Swedes. <strong>In</strong> 1676 the abandoned Milanów was<br />
bought by King Jan III Sobieski looking for a country retreat<br />
away from <strong>Warsaw</strong>, and he ordered a new Palace to be built<br />
on the site. Originally called Villa Nova (New Village), the<br />
name was soon polonised to the one it’s known by today.<br />
A brick manor house was built in 1680, expanding in two<br />
stages into a palace during the years 1681-1696 under<br />
the supervision of Agostino Locci to his own design. It is<br />
within the central part of the palace where you will see the<br />
living quarters of King Jan III Sobieski and his French queen<br />
consort, Marie (or Marysieńka as she was affectionately<br />
called by Sobieski and still is by Poles today) in what is the<br />
original part of the palace.<br />
After Jan III Sobieski’s death in 1696, his widow returned<br />
to France and the palace through their sons became the<br />
property of Elzbieta Sieniawska. She continued to develop<br />
the palace most notably the two wings which were built in the<br />
years 1720-1729. Sieniawska, like many of the subsequent<br />
owners, honoured Sobieski by conserving much of the palace<br />
in memory of the victorious king. It was to become a royal residence<br />
again in the early 1730s during the reign of August II the<br />
Strong. Over the next two hundred years the palace became<br />
the property of a succession of the most important Polish<br />
families including the Czartoryskis, Lubomirskis, Potockis<br />
and Branickis and each left their mark as they expanded and<br />
developed the property. One of its most enlightened residents<br />
was Stanislaw Kostka Potocki who in the early 19th century,<br />
at a time when Poland as a country ceased to exist because<br />
of the Russian/Prussian/Austrian partition, made his collection<br />
of art and access to the royal apartments of King Jan III<br />
Sobieski available to the public. Keep an eye out for the words<br />
‘Cunctis patet ingressus’ on the palace floor signifying that<br />
the palace and its collection were ‘open to all’.<br />
The palace avoided the fate of the city of <strong>Warsaw</strong> and survived<br />
the war virtually intact although its collections were<br />
seriously looted. Confiscated by Poland’s post-war Communist<br />
government, Wilanów became part of the National<br />
Museum in <strong>Warsaw</strong> and was painstakingly renovated during<br />
the 1950s and early 1960s, opening its doors to the public<br />
again in 1962. Today it is the subject of a 32 million zloty<br />
revitalisation program which is overseeing conservation<br />
work in the royal apartments and archaeological research<br />
of the area. The gardens have also recently been restored<br />
to the splendour they enjoyed during Jan III Sobieski’s time.<br />
Getting there<br />
The Palace and Gardens at Wilanow can be reached best<br />
of all by bus or taxi directly from the city centre. The city’s<br />
metro system does run to a stop called Wilanowska but<br />
this is about 5km from the palace and will involve taking<br />
a bus from outside of the station.<br />
By bus. From Old Town:<br />
From (B-2) pl. Zamkowy take buses 116 or 180 Mon-Fri.<br />
Journey takes about 30 minutes.<br />
From Pl. Trzech Krzyży:<br />
From (C-4) Pl. Trzech Krzyży take buses 116, 180 or<br />
E-2. Journey takes about 25 minutes. The bus stops<br />
can be found at the southern end of the square on Al.<br />
Ujazdowskie.<br />
From the centre:<br />
From (B-4) outside the Cepelia store on Marszalkowska<br />
take bus 519.<br />
From Warszawa Centralna train station:<br />
Take bus 130 or 700 from the southbound stop on (A-4)<br />
ul. Chałubińskiego. Journey takes about 30 minutes.<br />
All buses stop directly outside the palace gates.<br />
By Taxi. At around 50-55zł with a recommended<br />
company such as Sawa Taxi (tel. 22 644 44 44), a taxi<br />
ride to Wilanów is something of a false economy, taking<br />
more or less the same time as the bus to get there. If<br />
you prefer the comfort and privacy of your own car then<br />
also look for ELE taxis parked around the city, including<br />
outside the (A/B-4) main train station.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Lake & Island. There’s also a natural lake found behind the<br />
Palace, where gondolas complete with gondoliers and rowing<br />
boats can be hired for leisurely trips on the water beginning<br />
in May (weather permitting). A trip here will reward you with<br />
a glimpse of Enrico Marconi’s strange, Gothic-inspired pump<br />
room, and an adventure to the Park’s island reveals a monument<br />
to the Polish soldier, Captain Ksawery Burski, who served<br />
in the army of the Duchy of <strong>Warsaw</strong> and who gave his life at<br />
Wilanów fighting the Austrians at the Battle of Raszyn in 1809.<br />
Park & Gardens. The 45 hectares that make up Wilanów<br />
Park grew over the centuries according to the particular<br />
fancies of its owners. The Park’s present form dates from<br />
the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during<br />
the 1950s, overseen by the architect and historian Professor<br />
Gerard Ciołek (1909-1966). Made up of a series of<br />
individual gardens, the Park includes a two-level Baroque<br />
garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English<br />
landscaped park and the so called English-Chinese landscape<br />
park. The nearby Orangery and its garden serves as<br />
a splendid venue for outdoor classical music concerts during<br />
the summer season. The park near the Orangery, East, North<br />
and Rose gardens and their associated architecture were<br />
recently the subject of a major revitalisation program and<br />
during work on the Baroque garden a series of archaeological<br />
digs discovered several artefacts, including ceramics dating<br />
from the 12th century. Now the gardens have been restored<br />
to their appearance during the time of King Jan III Sobieski. Q<br />
Park open 09:00 till dusk. Note that the palace and gardens<br />
are closed to the public from December 17th until the first<br />
week of January. Admission 5/3zł, Thu free.<br />
Poster Museum (Muzeum Plakatu) ul. S. K. Potockiego<br />
10/16, tel. (+48) 22 842 48 48, www.postermuseum.pl.<br />
Housed inside the Palace’s former indoor<br />
riding area, the Poster Museum features two large halls full<br />
of wonderful posters from all over the world. At over 55,000<br />
pieces, this is reportedly the largest poster collection to be<br />
found anywhere. The museum focuses on the artistic merits<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
The Wilanów Palace Museum<br />
© The Wilanów Palace Museum,<br />
author: Zbigniew Reszka<br />
The Wilanów Palace Museum (Pałac w<br />
Wilanowie) ul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22<br />
842 81 01, www.wilanow-palac.pl. The first museum at<br />
Wilanów was opened in 1805 by the palace’s owner at the<br />
time, Stanisław Kostka Potocki. His aim was to help educate<br />
society and protect national identity and knowledge at a<br />
time when Poland had ceased to exist. This tradition was<br />
maintained by his son August and over two hundred years<br />
on these values are still key to the museum’s role.<br />
The current museum, which takes up a substantial portion<br />
of the Palace’s interior, comes in two parts. Having bought<br />
your ticket in the ticket office near the gate, enter the wing<br />
on the right and descend the stairs. There you will have to<br />
deposit your coat and place shoe covers on your shoes. It<br />
is recommended that you pick up an audio guide, which is<br />
available in a number of languages as well as English, as<br />
there is very little description throughout the museum -<br />
particularly in the Polish portrait gallery. Heading through<br />
a small room containing some old royal coaches, head up<br />
the stairs into the first part of the museum - The Polish<br />
Portrait Gallery - featuring portraits from the 16th to 19th<br />
century. Wander through room after room of portraits of<br />
the rich and the powerful including some fascinating Polish<br />
coffin portraits of important figures. If portraits are your<br />
thing you will find this very interesting although the lack<br />
of description and in some cases even the name of the<br />
people portrayed is rather frustrating.<br />
The tour leads you around the top of the house and then downstairs<br />
once more where you will find yourself in the residence of<br />
the palace. Featuring suits of armour, Etruscan vases, a room<br />
featuring magnificent frescoes uncovered during restoration<br />
work after the war, residential rooms, an exceedingly rare<br />
18th-century glass grandfather clock and even a private chapel<br />
there is a lot to admire. There are English language cards<br />
available in most rooms which give you a basic description of<br />
what to look for. The central part of the lower floor is the most<br />
impressive. It is here that you will find the private apartments<br />
of King Jan III Sobieski and his wife while the wings house the<br />
apartments of the subsequent owners of the palace. There<br />
are some lavish touches to be seen throughout the lower level<br />
and it may be of interest that the leadership of communist<br />
Poland would often use the palace to accommodate foreign<br />
dignitaries. Jimmy Carter once stayed here, while one of the<br />
beds had to be especially adapted to sleep the rather tall<br />
Charles de Gaulle when he visited. It is quite easy to spend a<br />
couple of hours wandering around the palace but be warned<br />
that it tends to fill with schoolchildren during the week and<br />
tourists at the weekends so there’s not really a best time to<br />
visit. Q Open 09:30 - 16:00, Sun 10:30 - 16:00. Closed Tue.<br />
Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Note that the palace and<br />
gardens are closed from December 17 until the first week of<br />
January. Admission 20/15zł, Sun free. Audioguide 12zł.<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
103
104<br />
WILANÓW<br />
Jan III Sobieski<br />
Jan Sobieski was born in<br />
Olesko near Lwow (now<br />
Ukrainian Lviv) in 1629.<br />
His father was a Polish-<br />
Lithuanian nobleman who<br />
ensured young Jan and<br />
his brother received a first<br />
class education and they<br />
both went onto study at the Jagiellonian University in Krakow<br />
before Jan travelled abroad. He studied military history and<br />
tactics including significantly as it would turn out in Turkey<br />
(as an envoy of King Jan II Casimir) where he learned the<br />
Tartar language in the 1650s. Sobieski also spoke French,<br />
German and Italian and during this time met major European<br />
political figures including Louis II deBourbon, William of<br />
Orange and Charles II, where it is clear that he learnt the<br />
value of diplomacy as well as military might.<br />
Jan Sobieski would have a lifelong love of France thanks<br />
in part to his French wife Marie (or Marysienka as he<br />
fondly named her) whom he married in 1665 and fathered<br />
14 children with (of whom 8 survived).<br />
Having returned to Poland Sobieski went on to serve with<br />
distinction in the Battle of <strong>Warsaw</strong> (1656), where he led a<br />
Tartar cavalry regiment, and the Polish Swedish wars (1655-<br />
1660) among others. <strong>In</strong> 1666 he sided with the king Michał<br />
Korybut Wiśniowiecki during the Lubormirski rebellion and<br />
added another major victory to his list by defeating the Turks<br />
at the Battle of Chocim in 1673. It was this victory allied to<br />
his reputation as a strong leader, astute military tactician<br />
and a canny political knack that would result in him being<br />
elected as Polish King the following year, in 1674.<br />
Sobieski inherited a nation virtually penniless from 50<br />
years of continuous war and set about stabilising the<br />
country’s borders through treaties and strategic battles.<br />
It is for this combination of wisdom and bravery that he<br />
is well remembered today.<br />
Sobieski’s greatest moment, however, was to come in<br />
1683. Having marched through most of the Balkans a<br />
vast Turkish army was massed on the outskirts of Vienna<br />
threatening to overwhelm the Christian world. Led by<br />
King Jan III Sobieski a joint Polish/German/Austrian army<br />
scored a magnificent victory in a daylong battle on 12<br />
September 1683 vanquishing the Turks. Sobieski led a<br />
charge of Polish hussars breaking the opposition lines<br />
and sending the Turks into disarray. Sobieski entered<br />
the abandoned tent of the Turkish commander Kara<br />
Mustapha in the early evening signifying victory and parts<br />
of that tent are today on display within Wilanow Palace.<br />
The Turks were to name Sobieski ‘The Lion of Lechistan’<br />
(Lechistan being an ancient name of Poland) while<br />
Danzig astronomer Johannes Hevelius would name a<br />
newly discovered constellation Scutum Sobiescianum<br />
(Sobieski’s Shield) after him, quite an accolade for a still<br />
living, non-astronomer as was Sobieski.<br />
The victory not only saved Christendom (Sobieski was<br />
described as the saviour of European Christendom by<br />
the Pope) but also made a lasting impact on European<br />
food culture. According to urban legend pastries were created<br />
baked in a shape designed to resemble Sobieski’s<br />
stirrups (beugel in Austrian), which supposedly evolved<br />
to become the bagels we enjoy today.<br />
of the posters rather than their documentary value and plays<br />
host to a cycle of temporary events and exhibitions. As a<br />
contrast to the historic palace and collection of paintings next<br />
door, this makes for interesting additional place to visit while<br />
in Wilanów. You can also find many of the best examples of<br />
the posters reproduced into postcards which can be bought<br />
from the museum shop along with books and catalogues on<br />
the various prints and exhibits. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Mon<br />
12:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 30 minutes<br />
before closing. Admission 10/7zł, Mon free.<br />
Potocki Mausoleum (Mauzoleum Potockich)<br />
Wilanów Park. A tomb dedicated to Stanisław Kostka Potocki<br />
and his wife Aleksandra (nee Lubomirska) Potocka by<br />
their son Aleksander. Designed in 1834 by Henryk Marconi<br />
and built between 1834-1836 by Jakub Tatarkiewicz and<br />
Konstanty Hegl, the mausoleum is made entirely of sandstone.<br />
It is located in the park leading to Wilanów Palace and<br />
consists of a Neo-Gothic canopy with lions holding shields<br />
bearing the crests of the Potocki and Lubomirski families<br />
in each corner. On the sarcophagus are the figures of the<br />
deceased and around the sides symbols of their virtues and<br />
interests are displayed.<br />
SD Gallery (Galeria SD) ul. S. K. Potockiego 22,<br />
tel. (+48) 783 40 77 70, www.galeriasd.pl. This small<br />
collection of modern Polish art close to St. Anne’s Church<br />
includes paintings and sculptures by many of the country’s<br />
leading contemporary artists. Featuring some truly impressive<br />
pieces of art, most of the work on display is available<br />
for sale. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Admission free.<br />
St. Anne’s Church (Kościół Św. Anny) ul. Kolegiacka<br />
1, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www.parafiawilanow.<br />
pl. A church on this site dates back to the 14th century when<br />
the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here. This was<br />
replaced by a Gothic wooden construction and graveyard<br />
in the 16th century and it wasn’t replaced with a brick one<br />
until well after the time of Jan III Sobieski in 1772. The new<br />
church was called St. Anne’s and was founded by Prince<br />
August Adam Czartoryski to a design by Jan Kotelnicki.<br />
Czartoryski’s grand-daughter, Aleksandra Lubormirska<br />
Potocka, decorated the church with art in the period 1799-<br />
1831, the most precious of which is the Annunciation to the<br />
Virgin Mary in the main altar.<br />
Between 1857 and 1870, Aleksandra’s son August and his<br />
wife extend the church to a design by Henri Marconi. The<br />
church gets a Neo-Renaissance look and the marvellous<br />
dome is added. <strong>In</strong> the gardens surrounding the church building<br />
you will find terracotta shrines marking the fourteen Stations<br />
of the Cross while within the church, in the crypt under<br />
the chapel, are the tombs of the Potocki family.<br />
The church suffered damage during both world wars and was<br />
even used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who also<br />
looted and damaged it. The church bells dating from 1723<br />
and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local people<br />
who hid them and these are now housed in the newly built<br />
Third Millenium Tower.<br />
The church is a particularly beautiful one to visit nowadays<br />
thanks in no small part to the work of the parish priest<br />
Bogusław Bijak and it is protected as part of a complex of<br />
parks, buildings and original roads running into the centre<br />
of the city as a national Historic Memorial. QOpen 06:30 -<br />
17:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:00. No visiting during mass please.<br />
Where to eat<br />
China Garden ul. Kazachska 1. See Restaurants.<br />
Restauracja Wilanów ul. S. K. Potockiego 27. See<br />
Restaurants.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
2010 saw the country toast Chopin with champagne;<br />
Poland’s greatest composer, and <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s favourite son,<br />
a man whose lent his name to everything from vodka to<br />
airports (and even an asteroid). For 2010 marked the 200th<br />
anniversary of Fryderyk Chopin’s birth and saw the city<br />
celebrate his life with amongst other things the opening of<br />
a fabulous new museum.<br />
Chopin - Life & Times<br />
And what a life it was. Of course, in the spirit of all the greats<br />
there’s a considerable element of mystery surrounding the<br />
man. Say it very, very quietly, but there’s even dispute as<br />
to his birthday and parentage. Most sources agree he was<br />
born on February 22, 1810, yet some claim his family could<br />
be found celebrating his birth on March 1. At the time of his<br />
death only Jane Stirling, his Scottish benefactor, claimed to<br />
know the truth, and this she wrote on a piece of paper before<br />
burying it with him. Furthermore, while most accept he was<br />
the son of a French expatriate some experts argue he was<br />
the bastard child of an unnamed aristocrat. The truth has<br />
been lost to time.<br />
One thing we can be certain of, and that’s his birthplace -<br />
the town of Żelazowa Wola fifty kilometres west of <strong>Warsaw</strong>.<br />
However, he stayed there for just a year, with the family<br />
moving to <strong>Warsaw</strong> in 1811 after his ‘father’, a man who’d<br />
fought the Russians in the Napoleonic Wars, found a job as<br />
a French tutor.<br />
By all accounts he was a prodigy from the offing. The young<br />
Frederic started learning piano at the age of four, and by the<br />
age of eight had already performed at what is now the Presidential<br />
Palace. Yet in spite of his obvious talents applications<br />
for a state grant were repeatedly refused. Nevertheless, his<br />
childhood was happy, and the gingerbread eating Frederic<br />
received gushing reviews in local columns and press.<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
CHOPIN<br />
A diligent student he was educated at home for the first 13<br />
years, before attending <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s Lyceum, and then the <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
Music Conservatory. He continued to blossom under its director,<br />
the Polish composer Joseph Elsner, who was wowed by Chopin’s<br />
musical mastery. He graduated from the Conservatory in 1829,<br />
the same year he was to meet Konstancha Gładkowska, and his<br />
unrequited love for her inspired many of his early compositions.<br />
Within three weeks of graduation he made a sparkling foreign<br />
debut in Vienna, before returning to Poland to perform the<br />
premier of his Piano Concerto in F minor. Already recognised<br />
as an amazing talent, Chopin started showing the signs of<br />
illness that would continue to blight the rest of his life. A keen<br />
traveller (on record is a tour of Europe undertaken in 1826 during<br />
which he visited Dresden, Kraków, Prague and numerous<br />
other places as a tourist), Chopin set off to play in Vienna in<br />
<strong>November</strong> 1830, following a farewell party in a Wola tavern.<br />
Unbeknownst to him at the time, that was to be his last taste<br />
of <strong>Warsaw</strong>. By the end of the month Poland had risen in rebellion<br />
against the ruling Russians. Dissuaded from joining the<br />
uprising himself Chopin drew inspiration from events to write<br />
his masterpiece, Revolution. Passages of his Stuttgart diary<br />
record his torment: “Oh God, do you exist? Or are you yourself a<br />
Muscovite!” Choosing to stay in exile Chopin settled in playboy<br />
Paris where he was welcomed by Polish émigrés, as well as<br />
upcoming composers and high society. His friends numbered<br />
Berlioz, Bellini (who he is buried next to) and Mendelssohn, as<br />
well as high profile Poles like the uncrowned King, Prince Adam<br />
Czartoryski and bard Adam Mickiewicz, while his dapper dress<br />
and natural charms attracted a string of adoring females.<br />
Drawing on his Polish upbringing the 1830s saw Chopin enjoy an<br />
impressively productive spell, composing a series of acclaimed<br />
polonaises and mazurkas. Ill health followed him however, so<br />
much so that when he was taken ill on a trip to meet his parents<br />
in 1835 some Polish scandal sheets reported him dead.<br />
He wasn’t, and the defining point of his life was to occur two<br />
years later when he met the controversial author George<br />
Sand (yes, that’s a woman). His first impression is recorded<br />
as being surprisingly acid: ‘what an unpleasant woman’, he is<br />
known to have commented. Already secretly engaged to a 17<br />
year old Polish girl, how Chopin’s life would have evolved if he<br />
had never seen Sand again is open to speculation. <strong>In</strong>stead he<br />
embarked on a torrid nine year affair with this classic ‘scarlet<br />
woman’, with one stage of their rocky relationship marked by<br />
a stint in an abandoned monastery on the island of Mallorca.<br />
Racked with chronic lung problems and a near permanent<br />
cough, the faltering affair span out of control when Sand, a<br />
loose-moraled man-killer, serialised the novel Lucretia Floriani<br />
in a Paris newspaper in 1846. The boorish, asexual antihero is<br />
commonly recognized as being a parody of Chopin. Broke, ill and<br />
now broken-hearted, Chopin led an increasingly miserable and<br />
secluded life. He finally passed away in his Paris apartment aged<br />
just 39 - though just like his birth, his death is equally contentious;<br />
some believe tuberculosis as the cause of death, others<br />
a malady such as emphysema or cystic fibrosis. If you believe<br />
the stories he carried a lock of Sand’s hair till the day he died<br />
(though by the same token he is also alleged to have carried an<br />
urn of Polish soil). Buried in Pere-Lachaise cemetery in Paris, on<br />
his insistence his body was cut open (he was petrified of being<br />
buried alive) and his heart later interned in a pillar of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s<br />
Kościół Świętego Krzyża. His funeral was as weird as his life,<br />
delayed for two weeks while church authorities debated whether<br />
to grant his wish and allow Mozart’s Requiem to be sung at his<br />
funeral (the point of contention being the presence of female<br />
singers). Regarded as the pinnacle of the Romantic style his<br />
music and legend survive to this day.<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
105
CHOPIN CHOPIN<br />
106 107<br />
Fryderyk Chopin Museum<br />
Fryderyk Chopin Museum (Muzeum Fryderyka<br />
Chopina) C-3, ul. Okólnik 1, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51,<br />
www.chopin.museum. The most anticipated museum<br />
opening in Poland since the 2004 launch of the Uprising<br />
Museum, the Fryderyk Chopin Museum is a jaw-dropping<br />
venue if you’ve had previous experience of Polish museums.<br />
Touted as one of the most high tech in Europe the museum<br />
officially opened in the spring of 2010 to help mark the<br />
200th anniversary of one of Poland’s most famous sons.<br />
Over 81 million zlotys were siphoned from council coffers<br />
to see this project realized, and the result is an amazing<br />
space designed by Grzegory and Partnerzy and fitted out<br />
by Migliore&Servetto of Milan. Taking up four floors the<br />
museum features an interactive style and shares in the life<br />
of Chopin from start to finish leaving absolutely no detail<br />
out. Among the 5,000 exhibits are a lock of hair, his school<br />
exercise books, a sweet box, a gold watch presented to<br />
the ten year old Frederic by an admiring Italian singer and<br />
the passport he used to enter England. So comprehensive<br />
is the collection it even features the last letter he wrote<br />
to his family and dried flowers from his deathbed. Also, of<br />
course, are several paintings and sculptures (including<br />
his death mask), and a recreation of his Paris drawing<br />
room and even an intriguing section on the women who<br />
made the man. And while there’s one small room of the<br />
museum aimed at children, the other 95 percent of this<br />
epic exhibition will probably have them whining to leave.<br />
However, what really revolutionizes this museum is the<br />
way your route is conducted. Aside from an avalanche of<br />
e-books, audio-visuals, music games and touchscreen<br />
options, the museum allows visitors to ‘adapt their trip<br />
to their particular circumstances’. Put simply those entering<br />
can choose exactly what they want to see, and how<br />
much they want to know about it. Even better are the<br />
micro-chipped tickets that can be swiped along different<br />
interactive exhibits to allow the visitor to hear music,<br />
stories or watch a film. One area that was particularly<br />
popular is the musical Twister game, which had normally<br />
stoic middle-aged tourists leaping from spot to spot as<br />
music played. Mr Chopin, welcome to the 21st century.<br />
As for the building, that’s worth getting to know as well.<br />
Located in the Ostrogski Palace the structure housing the<br />
museum is something of a <strong>Warsaw</strong> landmark, and was<br />
originally designed by Tylman van Gameren. <strong>In</strong> the past it’s<br />
been home to everything from a Napoleonic military hospital<br />
to the riotous Morgan’s Pub, and its catacombs are said to<br />
be home of the legendary Golden Duck; a princess charmed<br />
by the devil before being transformed into a beaked amphibian.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 60<br />
minutes before closing. Admission 22/13zł, family ticket<br />
62zł, Tue free. Number of visitors is restricted, so it is<br />
advisable to reserve tickets in advance online.<br />
What to See<br />
The Chopin Family Drawing Room C-3, ul. Krakowskie<br />
Przedmieście 5, tel. (+48) 22 320 02 75,<br />
www.chopin.museum. The young Chopin hopped around<br />
three separate residences in <strong>Warsaw</strong>, though only one<br />
will be of use to visitors. Saski Palace - where his father<br />
worked as a tutor - was in the process of being rebuilt (work<br />
now halted and temporarily abandoned), while Kazimierzowski<br />
Palace is closed off to visitors as part of <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
University - a plaque on the right wing commemorates his<br />
fleeting presence. <strong>In</strong>stead pay a visit to Krasiński Palace<br />
(formerly Czapski Palace) on Krakowskie Przedmieście,<br />
a place Chopin himself described as his ‘refuge’. Reconstructed<br />
in 1960 and opened to the public in 1969 none<br />
of the original furnishings survived the war, though the<br />
period furniture on display has been faithfully assembled<br />
to recreate his drawing room as seen in an Antoni Kolberg<br />
painting made in 1832. Chopin lived and entertained here<br />
from 1827 until his last day in Poland, and today some of<br />
the antiques on display include a writing desk owned by his<br />
elder sister and a pianoforte dating from 1830, as well as<br />
paintings of his mother, sister and tutor. Another pianoforte<br />
on show was once allegedly used by Franz Liszt. That’s not<br />
the only famous connection - poet Cyprian Norwid attended<br />
school in this building. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,<br />
Sun. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission<br />
3/2zł, Wed free. Y<br />
Holy Cross Church (Kościół Św. Krzyża) C-3,<br />
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, tel. (+48) 22 826<br />
89 10, www.swkrzyz.pl. No Chopinologist can leave<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> without first visiting the final resting place of<br />
his heart (the rest of him being in Paris’ famous Père<br />
Lachaise cemetery). Added to the church in 1882 his<br />
heart was sealed in an urn and then placed behind a<br />
tablet bearing his likeness specially carved by Leonardo<br />
Marconi. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00. No<br />
visiting during mass please.<br />
Łazienki Park. Our youthful cherry-cheeked hero frequently<br />
gave concerts in the Belvedere Palace (G-5, ul.<br />
Belwederska 52), then the stamping ground of the Russian<br />
aristocracy. It was here he played for the Tsar’s brother, Great<br />
Prince Konstanty, whose numerous duties included being the<br />
commander-in-chief of the Polish Army. So taken was he by<br />
Chopin’s skills that he persuaded him to pen a march to be<br />
played during military parades.<br />
Elsewhere in Łazienki don’t dare miss a visit to the art<br />
nouveau Chopin Monument (G-4) next to the Botanical<br />
Garden. Set in the midst of a rose garden it was erected<br />
in 1926, the work of acclaimed sculptor Wacław Szymankowski.<br />
As part of the Nazi brutalization of <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
it was dynamited by German busybodies on May 31,<br />
1940. The following day an unknown patriot had placed<br />
a placard on the smouldering ruin declaring: ‘I don’t<br />
know who destroyed me, but I know why; so I don’t<br />
play the funeral march for your leader’. A plaster-cast<br />
of the original model allowed the statue to be rebuilt<br />
and a faithful reconstruction was unveiled in 1958. An<br />
identical replica can be found at Japan’s Hamamatsu<br />
Academy of Music.<br />
Augsburg Evangelical Church of the Holy Trinity<br />
(Kościół Św. Trójcy) B-3, Pl. Małachowskiego 1, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 556 46 60, www.trojca.waw.pl. <strong>In</strong> 1825 Chopin<br />
once more performed for the Russians, this time for the Tsar<br />
himself who in return presented Chopin with a diamond ring.<br />
Q Open by prior arrangement.<br />
Church of the Nuns of the Visitation C-3, ul.<br />
Krakowskie Przedmieście 34, tel. (+48) 22 826 65<br />
85, www.wizytki.waw.pl. Visit the church that Chopin<br />
attended in his youth by popping into this baroque beauty.<br />
Pride of place goes to the original organ which our man<br />
himself played during a part time stint as a school organist.<br />
A plaque outside confirms the Chopin connection: ‘<strong>In</strong> honour<br />
of Fryderyk Chopin, who played on the organ in this church as<br />
a pupil of the <strong>Warsaw</strong> Lyceum in the years 1825-1826’. Q<br />
Open 09:00 - 16:30, Mon 13:00 - 16:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00,<br />
14:00 - 16:30. No visiting during mass please.<br />
Chopin Monument (Pomnik Chopina) G-4, Łazienki<br />
Park. Don’t dare miss a visit to the art nouveau Chopin Monument<br />
(G-4) next to the Botanical Garden. Set in the midst of<br />
a rose garden it was erected in 1926, the work of acclaimed<br />
sculptor Wacław Szymankowski. As part of the Nazi brutalization<br />
of <strong>Warsaw</strong> it was dynamited by German busybodies on May<br />
31, 1940. The following day an unknown patriot had placed<br />
a placard on the smoldering ruin declaring: ‘I don’t know who<br />
destroyed me, but I know why; so I don’t play the funeral march<br />
for your leader’. A plaster-cast of the original model allowed the<br />
statue to be rebuilt and a reconstruction was unveiled in 1958.<br />
Chopin Benches. The good city of <strong>Warsaw</strong> has devised<br />
one more way to bring Chopin to the people, and that’s by way<br />
of fifteen musical benches that have been placed at key sites<br />
connected with his life. Made of cast iron and polished black<br />
stone these benches, designed by Professor Jerzy Porebski,<br />
feature a button which when pressed have been designed<br />
to unleash a thirty second torrent of Chopin. They also come<br />
equipped with a route map as well as brief explanations in Polish<br />
and English as to the site’s relevance to Chopin. However, that’s<br />
not all. These benches see Chopin go techno: each one comes<br />
inscribed with a special code - take a pic on your phone, then<br />
send it to the instructed number and you’ll be rewarded to free<br />
access to Chopin melodies, facts, figures and photographs.<br />
And the Rest<br />
It didn’t have a Starbucks and it didn’t have Coffeeheaven,<br />
but even back in those days <strong>Warsaw</strong> had a thriving café<br />
culture. This wasn’t lost on Chopin who would frequent now<br />
defunct venues such as Pod Kopciuszkiem and Dziurka on<br />
ul. Miodowa. One venue that has survived is Honoratka,<br />
named after it’s proprietor Honorata Zimerman, and a<br />
particular favourite stomping ground of the composer. He<br />
was also an avid reader, confessing to visiting the Brzezina<br />
Bookstore (again, now gone) on Miodowa every day, as well<br />
as stocking up on sheet music in Dal Trozza on Senatorska.<br />
Elsewhere the building on the corner of ul. Kozia and Trębacka<br />
formerly housed the Royal Post Office, and it’s here that Chopin<br />
forwarded his luggage from before departing Poland for<br />
what would prove to be his last time. Finally there’s Powązki<br />
Cemetery, where his parents lie in plot 9-IV-1. Józef Elsner,<br />
his mentor and teacher, can be found at plot 159-V-1.<br />
Where to eat<br />
Polka, Magda Gessler po prostu Żelazowa Wola 14,<br />
tel. (+48) 46 863 21 68, www.restauracjapolka.pl. Set<br />
in a modern manor house across from Chopin’s birthplace<br />
is this classy venture by one of the country’s best known<br />
celebrity chefs - Magda Gessler. The setting is beautiful and<br />
features a summer terrace and grill for those warmer months.<br />
The food is Polish with some nice touches at prices that<br />
might surprise those who have eaten in city centre Gessler<br />
restaurants and makes for an excellent end to an interesting<br />
day outside of busy <strong>Warsaw</strong>. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (28-99zł). PTAUIEGSW<br />
Żelazowa Wola<br />
Żelazowa Wola - Birthplace Żelazowa Wola 15,<br />
tel. (+48) 46 863 33 00, www.chopin.museum. True<br />
enthusiasts are going to want to make the pilgrimage to<br />
his place of birth, and a worthwhile trip it most certainly is.<br />
The Chopin clan left for <strong>Warsaw</strong> in the autumn of 1810, but<br />
even so Żelazowa Wola clearly held fond memories for the<br />
family. Close friends with the neighbouring Skarbek family<br />
the Chopins found themselves returning frequently for their<br />
holidays, and we know for fact the composer spent Christmas<br />
here in 1825 and New Year in 1826. The ZW manor<br />
house which saw the birth of Chopin is thought to have been<br />
built at the tail end of the 18th century, and came into the<br />
ownership of Countess Ludwika Skarbek in 1801. Adam<br />
Towiański, who resided there between 1859 and 1878,<br />
was the first to raise the idea of turning the manor into a<br />
place of memory, and he set about restoring the complex<br />
to its Chopin-era glory. A change of ownership saw the<br />
project stall for a decade and it was only in 1891 that work<br />
was resumed on building a Chopin museum. Thwarted by<br />
a lack of funds these efforts didn’t get much further than<br />
the unveiling of a Chopin monument, and for the next couple<br />
of decades work didn’t so much stall as die.<br />
Poland regained her independence in 1918, and the<br />
related surge in national pride and patriotism saw new<br />
efforts to commemorate Chopin’s legacy. The building<br />
was granted historic status and in 1928 the property<br />
was purchased by a Sochaczew-based Chopin society.<br />
Restoration on the buildings was initiated in 1930, as<br />
were plans to landscape the gardens, and buoyed by donations<br />
the curators started amassing a stack of Chopin<br />
memorabilia, among them a Pleyel piano. Disaster struck<br />
in the familiar form of the German army: the outbreak<br />
of war in 1939 saw a German unit billeted here, and the<br />
building was looted and damaged.<br />
By the time the Chopin <strong>In</strong>stitute was awarded trust of<br />
the house in the late 1940s the house found itself in a<br />
sorry state of rot. Working round the clock to restore<br />
it Żelazowa Wola was re-opened to the public on the<br />
centenary of his death in 1949.<br />
Today no original fixtures and fittings remain, and even the<br />
original layout has been altered somewhat. Even so, the<br />
house has been filled with period keepsakes, instruments<br />
and paintings, and visitors all attest to the haunting spirit<br />
of Chopin that hangs in the rooms. Displays on view include<br />
an early 19th century produced by Leszczyński of <strong>Warsaw</strong>,<br />
portraits of Chopin and 19th century furniture in the Bierdermier<br />
style. However, the bit that most will find themselves<br />
drawn to is the ‘mother’s room’, the actual scene of Chopin’s<br />
birth. Now a calm white room adorned with a decorative<br />
bouquet this has become a real point of pilgrimage with a<br />
reverential silence observed by all who visit.<br />
Getting there:<br />
Żelazowa Wola is 54km west of <strong>Warsaw</strong> and can be<br />
reached by catching a mini-bus at ul. Marszałkowska<br />
(next to Rossman) courtesy of www.motobuss.pl. Be<br />
careful as some of these buses stop at Sochaczew and<br />
not Żelazowa Wola. There is also this Plan B: take a train<br />
to Sochaczew (journey time 40 minutes, tickets 13.80zł<br />
- 17zł depending on the kind of train you take) and from<br />
there jump on bus number 6 which terminates at Mokas<br />
after stopping at Żelazowa Wola. This little adventure<br />
should take a further twenty minutes.Q Open 09:00 -<br />
17:00. Museum closed Mon (park open). Last entrance<br />
30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/4zł for the park,<br />
23/14zł for park and museum. Tue free.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
108<br />
COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE COPERNICUS SCIENCE WHAT CENTRE TO SEE<br />
Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre<br />
While the world’s attention was drawn towards the highlyvisible,<br />
round-the-clock construction of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s amazing<br />
new stadium on the left bank of the Wisła, work was also<br />
being carried out on the river’s right bank on a building<br />
that might well outshine the stadium once the Euro 2012<br />
hoopla has died down. Built on time and on budget (well,<br />
just about), the Copernicus Science Centre (CSC) - - which<br />
stands almost directly opposite the stadium along the<br />
river - - looks set to become <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s top tourist attraction<br />
for years to come.<br />
Getting there<br />
The centre can be found in the shadow of the Świętokrzyski<br />
Bridge on the banks of the Wisła River. A journey to the CSC<br />
from the centre of <strong>Warsaw</strong> should take around 10 minutes.<br />
Buses 105, 118 and 128 will drop you at the Biblioteka<br />
Uniwersytecka stop, requiring a short walk around the<br />
corner to the unmissable building. Buses 102, 162 and<br />
185 will drop you at the Pomnik Syreny stop with the CSC<br />
clearly in sight. Alternatively visit the ‘About us’ section of<br />
the English language website www.kopernik.org.pl, where<br />
you can get directions by car, by bus, or by foot by typing<br />
in your address.<br />
<strong>In</strong>troduction<br />
A rare example of European Union funding being used in<br />
a genuinely visionary way, the CSC is many things, not<br />
least (in the words of Poland’s Education Minister shortly<br />
before the opening) an attempt to restate the case for<br />
science and research in what can still be an intensely<br />
and deeply religious country. <strong>In</strong> that sense, giving t he<br />
centre the name of the man who did so much to end the<br />
church’s monopoly of education in the first place is little<br />
short of a masterstroke.<br />
Not that Copernicus did it all his own way; in the aftermath of<br />
the tragic death of Polish President Lech Kaczynski in April<br />
2010 the president’s political party, PiS (Law & Justice), lobbied<br />
heavily to have the CSC renamed for him. The request<br />
was politely, respectfully, refused.<br />
Given the stunning, futuristic sight - all glass and steel - - that<br />
greets visitors at the €93 million (half of which came from the<br />
EU, half of which came from the Polish taxpayer) CSC today,<br />
it’s a little ironic that the building’s origins are slightly more<br />
humble. The idea of creating the centre first took shape at<br />
the informal Science Picnics - - outdoor science, culture<br />
and art events aimed at the general public that have been<br />
held in <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s Rynek Nowego Miasta since 1997. The<br />
idea of the picnics (which were organised by Polskie Radio,<br />
strangely enough) was to bring popular science to the<br />
masses through handson experiments. Each year, as the<br />
numbers of scientists, universities, schools and members<br />
of the general public taking part grew, it became clear that<br />
there was an expanding interest in science in <strong>Warsaw</strong>, while<br />
the large numbers of foreign visitors who came to the events<br />
suggested that there was an untapped market in the region<br />
for hands-on scientific learning. Construction of the CSC was<br />
the natural next step, though it took a number of years to<br />
secure the site and funding.<br />
Given the ad hoc Science Picnic origins of the CSC, it is no<br />
surprise that the museum (if we can call it that) was opened<br />
in a slightly ad hoc, it-will-be-all-right-eventually fashion. The<br />
opening show, Wielki Wybuch (The Big Bang), directed by<br />
Peter Greenaway and Saskia Boddeke, was a little underwhelming<br />
(and at certain points quite bizarre), while visitors<br />
to the centre in the first couple of weeks were greeted by an<br />
annoyingly large number of ‘this exhibit is temporarily out of<br />
order’ signs. Yet throughout 2011 as the CSC rolled out sections<br />
of the museum to the public it quickly became clear that<br />
this is unquestionably the very best science centre in Europe,<br />
and today visitors can enjoy a fully completed attraction.<br />
Visiting Today<br />
Arriving at the main doors at the north end of the building,<br />
you will be met by the centre’s very own Robothespian. A fully<br />
programmable humanoid robot, the Robothespian was developed<br />
in Britain by the Eden Project in Cornwall. He speaks,<br />
interacts, mimics and performs, and visitors can prompt him<br />
to make a number of sounds, speech and movements by the<br />
adjacent control panel. This will keep the kids busy while you<br />
queue at the central ticket desk where you will be given a set<br />
of credit card-style entrance passes. You should keep hold<br />
of these as not only do they allow you to enter and exit the<br />
building throughout the day, but they will also become your<br />
ID card as you move through the exhibitions, many of which<br />
allow you to record your results (which are stored and then<br />
emailed to you afterwards).<br />
Passing through the barriers, the first display you come<br />
to is a huge swinging ball. The ball swings backwards and<br />
forwards, periodically knocking over mallets that strike a<br />
bell as they fall. These bells are lined up around the swinging<br />
ball in a circle and although the ball swings in a straight line<br />
backwards and forwards, the knocking over of the mallets<br />
proves that the earth is constantly, actually rotating.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Getting in<br />
Copernicus Science Centre (Centrum Nauki<br />
Kopernik) G-2, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie<br />
20, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.kopernik.org.pl.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Closed<br />
Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Note that the<br />
Planetarium has different opening hours. Open 09:30<br />
- 19:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission<br />
22/13-16zł, family ticket 57zł. (2adults+2children).<br />
Use of the labs costs an additional 18/14zł. Note that<br />
you must buy a separate ticket for the Planetarium.<br />
Admission 18zł/11-14zł, family ticket 47zł.<br />
(for young adults) on the ground floor, and Humans and the<br />
Environment, LightZone and On the Move located upstairs.<br />
Each area demonstrates a range of phenomenon by way of<br />
experiments, button pressing, quizzes and in some cases<br />
physical exertion with the aim of helping you to discover the<br />
secrets of the world around us.<br />
Not only will you learn an awful lot, but the place is great fun,<br />
especially if you are (or are with) a child. There’s a genuine<br />
flying carpet, you can pilot a spaceship, take a picture of your<br />
own eye (and then try to recognise it among the others photographed<br />
that day), discover who or what is living next to us<br />
in a major city, get involved in some crime solving or - and this<br />
was our favourite - try to outdo animals at their own game by<br />
out-hanging an Orangutan or beating a hippo in a race at the<br />
arena. There’s plenty to do and you can easily spend a whole<br />
morning or afternoon there trying everything, particularly if<br />
you stumble on a day free of the ever-present school groups.<br />
Additional hands-on activities geared especially towards<br />
teens can be found in the Re: generation Zone, where visitors<br />
over 14 can experiment with psychology, sociology, economics<br />
or biotechnology through 80 multimedia exhibits - we<br />
swear we’ve never seen teens more effusive and excited<br />
as they tried to identify a monkey’s emotions, or finish lyrics<br />
to popular songs. There’s also four interactive labs dealing<br />
with chemistry, biology, physics and robotics that offer<br />
supervised experiments for kids over 13 (instructions are<br />
in Polish however) and an outdoor Discovery Park filled with<br />
installations lining the Wisła.<br />
The attached Heavens of Copernicus planetarium adds<br />
yet another option for visiting science buffs as it immerses<br />
attendees in 20 million stars thanks to a giant spherical<br />
screen that surrounds the 137 seats on all sides. The seven<br />
different 40-minute films (which require heads ets for English)<br />
Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre<br />
Having admired this, the interactive exhibitions begin. First of<br />
all, register your card with your name and email address at<br />
one of the terminals so that you will be identified as you progress<br />
through the CSC. You currently have over 350 experiments<br />
to visit, spread over two floors and six areas: Roots of<br />
Civilisation, Bzzz! (for preschool children) and RE:generation<br />
Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
are geared towards different age ranges and interests - tots<br />
will delight in the Sesame Street show “One World, One Sky”<br />
while teens will prefer the more mysterious “Black Holes:<br />
Journey into the Unknown.” Before each film is a 20-minute<br />
live show (which is unfortunately only in Polish, though still<br />
interesting due to the impressive venue) about the skies<br />
over <strong>Warsaw</strong> that changes with the seasons.School groups<br />
dominate the Planetarium’s seats during daytime hours,<br />
and booking tickets in advance is highly recommended -<br />
when we dropped in only one of the eight daily shows had<br />
available space.<br />
It’s easy to declare that the centre is well-worth a few hours of<br />
your time and will impress you with its design and range of experiments.<br />
Factor in the main floor cafeteria and the packed<br />
Science Store (potentially the best spot for children’s gifts<br />
in <strong>Warsaw</strong>) and it’s a one-stop day of fun. The staff is keen,<br />
very helpful and English-speaking; we saw many interacting<br />
happily with kids and helpfully controlling the chaos. If there<br />
is one gripe we have it would concern the Robotics show,<br />
which can be found inside the Roots of Civilisation section.<br />
The 20-minute show we saw told an embarrassingly bad<br />
story about a robot that wants to become human in order<br />
to marry a princess, and used language that seemed slightly<br />
out of reach for young children. The various accents can also<br />
be baffling (one robot sounds like a drunken Sean Connery)<br />
and the robots themselves are like stiff mannequins that<br />
move back and forth on a small track. Completely skippable.<br />
Considering the size and scope of this operation, one minor<br />
flaw in an otherwise awe-inspiring complex is a feat unseen<br />
in <strong>Warsaw</strong>. And if truth be told, it would have been very hard<br />
to imagine such a potentially world-class visitor attraction<br />
being built in this city just a few years ago. Yet here it is, which<br />
ought to be worth an exhibit in and of itself about how the<br />
impossible can become possible.<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
109
110<br />
LEISURE<br />
Adrenaline Sports<br />
Mr. Quad ul. Tysiąclecia 59a, Otwock, tel. (+48)<br />
22 788 45 14, www.mrquad.pl. Q Open by prior<br />
arrangement. 10 quads, 246zł per day (12 hrs) per<br />
one quad.<br />
Silt Paintball, tel. (+48) 503 41 41 75, www.paintball.silt.pl.<br />
A minimum of ten people in a group generally<br />
required so call in advance. Q 60zł per person, equipment<br />
plus 200 shells.<br />
Bike Rental<br />
Veturilo, en.veturilo.waw.pl. <strong>Warsaw</strong> cements its bigcity<br />
credentials with the arrival of its first city-wide bike<br />
rental fleet in August, and the numbers are impressive.<br />
With 57 stations spread throughout <strong>Warsaw</strong>, Wilanow,<br />
Ursynow and Bielany offering 1,120 bikes there’s no question<br />
you’ll be spotting the silvery fleet flying through the<br />
city’s streets. And why not try one yourself? The system<br />
is ridiculously easy: set up an account online (en.veturilo.<br />
waw.pl is the English-language site) and pay the initial<br />
10zł fee. Once you’re registered you can visit any of the<br />
stations and select your ride, which has an individualized<br />
code. Simply dial the enter your phone number, your PIN<br />
and the bike’s code, and you’ll receive the number to unlock<br />
the bicycle from the stand. Then you’re off! The first<br />
20 minutes are free, and from there you pay 1zł for 21-60<br />
minutes, 3zł for the second hour, 5zł for the third, and 7zł<br />
for each hour after that up to 12 hours. There’s a 200zł<br />
fee for exceeding 12 hours, and a whopping 2,000zł cost<br />
for replacing a lost or damaged bike so behave yourself.<br />
When you return the bike, which can be done at any of<br />
the stations, you make another phone call confirming the<br />
return and you’re finished.<br />
Wygodny Rower C-3, Al. Jerozolimskie 4, tel. (+48)<br />
888 94 99 49, www.wygodnyrower.pl. Choose from<br />
two different styles of bicycles for cruising around the city.<br />
A full day will cost 40zł, 24 hours is 50zł. Both require a<br />
returnable deposit of 200zl. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 19:00.<br />
Bowling & Billiards<br />
Arco Bowling Alley D-5, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej<br />
1920r. 19, tel. (+48) 22 668 75 91, www.arco-bowling.<br />
pl. Two floors, 32 lanes, restaurant and club. 80-150zł per<br />
lane per hour, shoes and instructor included. QOpen 16:00<br />
- 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.<br />
Hulakula Bowling Alley<br />
C-2, ul. Dobra 56/66<br />
(University Library), tel.<br />
(+48) 22 552 74 00,<br />
www.hulakula.com.pl.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Wed<br />
12:00 - 01:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. 20-120zł per hour.<br />
Shoes included.<br />
Klub ArenA A-4, ul. Pańska 61, tel. (+48) 22 620<br />
47 08, www.bilard.waw.pl. Billiards fans can take advantage<br />
of Klub ArenA’s multiple pool tables as well as<br />
access to foosball, darts, a well-stocked bar and plenty<br />
of space for lounging. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat<br />
12:00 - 04:00.<br />
Entertainment centres<br />
Hulakula Leisure Centre C-2, ul. Dobra 56/66 (University<br />
Library), tel. (+48) 22 552 74 00, www.hulakula.<br />
com.pl. <strong>In</strong>cludes a bowling alley, club, restaurant, pool hall,<br />
climbing wall and indoor playground for children. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00, Wed 12:00 - 01:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri<br />
12:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.<br />
Spin City ul. Powstańców Śląskich 126A (Cinema<br />
City, Bemowo), tel. (+48) 22 560 42 42, www.spincity.<br />
pl. Admission for bowling is 40-99zł per hour. Features a<br />
bowling alley, a bar with pool tables and darts and a video<br />
games area. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00.<br />
Fitness & Gyms<br />
Pure Health and Fitness A-4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote<br />
Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22 379 77 77, www.purepoland.<br />
com. Third floor of Złote Tarasy, with facilties including<br />
gym, jacuzzi, sauna and solarium. QOpen 06:00 - 22:30,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 22:30, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.<br />
Ice Skating<br />
“Arena” Ice rink A-3, Pl. Defilad 1 (in front of Palace of<br />
Culture and Science), tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00, www.pkin.<br />
pl. Skating is free of charge. Skate rental costs 7zł for the first hour<br />
and 5zł for every subsequent hour. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Fri,<br />
Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. Open from December 5. Admission free.<br />
Figlowisko Al. Komisji Edukacji Narodowej (Ursynów), tel.<br />
(+48) 504 24 59 10, www.figlowisko.pl. Round the clock<br />
skating at rink. Q Open 24hrs. Admission 10/8zł for one hour<br />
plus a one-off skate hire price of 6zł. Every-other hour is free.<br />
Torwar H-4, ul. Łazienkowska 6a, www.torwar.pl. Q Open<br />
Thu 20:00 - 21:30, Sat 18:30 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 12:30, 18:30<br />
- 20:00. From January open Thu 20:00 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 11:00<br />
- 12:30, 18:30 - 20:00. Admission 12/8zł. Skate rental 7zł.<br />
Outdoor Attractions & Parks<br />
Zoo C-1, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41,<br />
www.zoo.waw.pl. Opened in 1928, <strong>Warsaw</strong> Zoo covers<br />
an area of 40 hectares and attracts some 500,000 visitors<br />
each year. Four elephants, a family of seals and a lion<br />
cub were added to the current collection of reptiles, birds<br />
and tigers. Conditions have improved dramatically in recent<br />
years, though a visit here will do little to change any opinions<br />
you have on locking animals in cages. As with every major<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> landmark, the zoo has plenty of war stories. It was<br />
bombed at the beginning of the conflict and by 1945 all the<br />
animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich,<br />
eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan<br />
Żabiński, became something of a hero; wounded during<br />
the 1944 Uprising, Żabiński helped save countless lives by<br />
sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo. The<br />
zoo officially re-opened in 1949. Q Open 09:00 - 15:30, Sun<br />
09:00 - 16:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission<br />
18/13zł. Children under 3 years free.<br />
Racquet Sports<br />
City Sports Club G-6, ul. Merliniego 2, tel. (+48)<br />
695 83 68 80, www.citysportsclub.pl. Located on ul.<br />
Merliniego, they offer tennis courts (55-100zł/per hour),<br />
lessons with an English-speaking instructor (45-160zł/per<br />
hour), equipment rental (by prior arrangement) and social<br />
lessons for expats. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Squash City Al. Jerozolimskie 179 (CH Blue City,<br />
Ochota), tel. (+48) 22 499 64 66, www.squashcity.pl.<br />
Nine air-conditioned courts. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun<br />
09:00 - 22:00. Admission 45-65zł.<br />
Skiing<br />
CSN Szczęśliwice ul. Drawska 22 (Ochota), tel.<br />
(+48) 22 622 69 61, www.stok.wosir.waw.pl. Skiing<br />
and snowboarding on an area of 35,000 sq/m. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 20:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.<br />
Admission 12-23zł per hour.<br />
Sleigh Rides<br />
Stajnia Agmaja ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 2 (Żoliborz),<br />
tel. (+48) 722 95 01 86, www.agmaja.pl. One hour sleigh<br />
rides for 6-8 people cost around 200zł. For additional fees<br />
guests can add bonfires with food and mulled wine. Note<br />
that you must book your sleigh ride one week in advance.<br />
TKKF Ognisko “Podkowa” ul. Głogów 11, Podkowa<br />
Leśna, tel. (+48) 22 758 94 26, www.tkkfpodkowa.<br />
hg.pl. Small group sleigh rides (max 5 people) for 150zł per<br />
group. For additional fees bonfires and food can be added.<br />
Wilczeniec Country Club (Klub Wiejski Wilczeniec)<br />
ul. Kościelna Droga 10, Łomianki, tel. (+48) 22 751 97<br />
77, www.wilczeniec.pl. Sleigh rides available for groups of<br />
8-9 for 250zł (smaller groups can be accomodated for the same<br />
price) and 10-15 350zł. Fee includes tea and sausages during a<br />
bonfire. There is also the possibility of other food and beverages<br />
for additional fees. Sleigh rides typically last about one hour.<br />
Spa & Beauty<br />
Franck Provost C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 58a, tel. (+48)<br />
22 826 81 01, www.franckprovost.pl. French-trained<br />
English-speaking stylists offering unisex hair treatment<br />
and styling from 100zł to 350zł. Manicure and pedicure also<br />
available as well as cosmetic products by L’Oreal and Kerastase.<br />
Also at ul. Puławska 25a (G-5), which has expanded<br />
spa services like massage and microdermabrasion. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.<br />
Sungate Beauty & Spa B-3, Pl.<br />
Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. (+48)<br />
517 01 28 80, www.spasungate.<br />
pl. The menu of services available at<br />
Sungate is staggering: from facials<br />
and every imaginable type of massage<br />
(shea butter to aromatherapy) to wax-<br />
beauty & spa<br />
ing and nailcare they have you covered<br />
from head to foot. Package for couples, women and<br />
just regular folks who like to indulge are also available.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.<br />
Swimming<br />
Aquapark Wesolandia ul. Wspólna 4 (Wesoła), tel.<br />
(+48) 22 773 91 91, www.wesolandia.pl. <strong>In</strong>cludes a<br />
junior swimming pool, Jacuzzi, slide, fitness centre. Length<br />
25m, depth 1.1-1.8m. Q Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00<br />
- 22:00. 12-17zł per hour. All day tickets 19-31zł.<br />
Polna F-4, ul. Polna 7a, tel. (+48) 22 825 71 34, www.<br />
osir-polna.pl. <strong>In</strong>cludes a kids pool, sauna, Jacuzzi and water<br />
slide. Length 25m, depth 1.25-1.8m. QOpen 06:30 - 21:30.<br />
Admission 15/10zł per hour.<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
LEISURE<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
111
112 ŁÓDŹ<br />
BASICS<br />
Łódź <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Łódź may look like it’s pronounced<br />
Lodz, but it most certainly<br />
isn’t. Think of it as Woodge,<br />
and three hundred years ago a<br />
visit here would have produced<br />
the sight of little more than one<br />
man and his dog. <strong>In</strong> terms of<br />
age Łódź is one of the youngest<br />
cities in the country, and a<br />
direct product of the <strong>In</strong>dustrial<br />
Revolution. And while Łódź cannot<br />
boast the twee charisma of<br />
Prague and Kraków a scratch<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Hollywood’s strangest<br />
director and his love<br />
affair with Lodz<br />
<br />
Experience one of the<br />
country’s treasured<br />
traditions<br />
of the surface rewards the intrepid traveller with a city<br />
stuffed with wacky stories, dark history and some of the<br />
countries finest after-dark venues – you’ll find them all<br />
inside our 13th issue of Łódź <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>; Poland’s<br />
first comprehensive English-language guide to the city.<br />
Getting there<br />
Lodz lies 140km south west of <strong>Warsaw</strong> and is easily accessed<br />
by train. When modernization finishes Lodz will be<br />
within an hour’s reach of <strong>Warsaw</strong>, but for the time being<br />
journey time is around one hour and forty minutes, while they<br />
continue to work on the new high speed link. If you’re travelling<br />
from the capital you’ll need to book a ticket running to Łódź<br />
Fabryczna train station. The city centre is directly across the<br />
road from the main entrance: take the underpass and carry<br />
on walking west and you’ll find yourself on the main street,<br />
ulica Piotrkowska, within ten minutes. For longer journeys<br />
taxis stand directly outside the main entrance, though travellers<br />
should only use cabs that are clearly marked.<br />
Some basics<br />
Łódź first appeared in written records in 1332 under the<br />
name of Łodzia and remained little more than a rural backwater<br />
for the following centuries, with a population numbering<br />
just 800 as late as the 16th century.<br />
The birth of modern Łódź as we know it can be traced to 1820,<br />
when statesman, philosopher and writer Stanisław Staszic began<br />
a campaign to turn the Russian-controlled city into a centre<br />
of manufacturing. The first cotton mill was opened in 1825<br />
and by 1839 the first steam-powered factory in Poland and<br />
Russia was officially christened. A massive influx of workers<br />
from as far afield as Portugal, England and France flooded the<br />
city, though the mainstay of the town’s population remained<br />
Poles, Germans and Jews. Within a matter of decades Łódź<br />
had grown into the biggest textile production centre in the<br />
Russian Empire, during which time vast fortunes were made<br />
and lost by the major industrialist families.<br />
By the outbreak of WWI the town stood out as one of the<br />
most densely populated cities on the planet with a population<br />
of approximately 13,000 people per square kilometre.<br />
But hard times were around the corner; the inter-war years<br />
signaled an end to the town’s Golden Age, and the loss of<br />
Russian and German economic markets led to strikes and<br />
civil unrest that were to become a feature of inter-war Łódź.<br />
Things were about to get worse: the outbreak of WWII saw<br />
the city annexed into The Third Reich.<br />
The following six years of occupation left the population<br />
decimated with 120,000 Poles killed, and an estimated<br />
300,000 Jews perishing in what was to become known as<br />
the Litzmannstadt ghetto. Following the war, and with much<br />
of <strong>Warsaw</strong> in ruins, Łódź was used as Poland’s temporary<br />
capital until 1948. The wholesale war-time destruction of<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> also saw many of Poland’s eminent artists and<br />
cultural institutes decamp to the nearest big city; that city<br />
was Łódż, and today the town can boast a rich cultural<br />
heritage, with Poland’s leading film school, one of the most<br />
important modern art galleries in Europe, and an exciting<br />
underground culture.<br />
Today Łódź is a city slowly rediscovering itself, growing in<br />
confidence and coming to terms with its patchy history.<br />
Overlooked by many visitors to Poland, this is a city full of<br />
hidden charms: from the awesome palaces that belonged to<br />
the hyper-rich industrialists who made the city, to Europe’s<br />
longest pedestrian street (Piotrkowksa) to the largest<br />
municipal park in Europe. You’ll find everything you need to<br />
know about the city in our print guide to Łódź, as well as our<br />
full content online at www.inyourpocket.com.<br />
Manufaktura<br />
How many times have you heard a shopping centre call itself<br />
‘More than a shopping centre?’ <strong>In</strong> the case of Manufaktura, for<br />
once the hyperbole is entirely justified. For this is indeed more<br />
than a shopping centre. <strong>In</strong> fact, we really shouldn’t be calling<br />
it a shopping centre at all. Covering a space of 150,000m 2<br />
Manufaktura does of course feature a mall with endless<br />
shopping opportunities, but that would not tell the full story.<br />
Manufaktura today is the result of Poland’s largest<br />
renovation project since the reconstruction of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s<br />
Old Town in the 1950s. Originally a series of factories that<br />
were constructed in the latter part of the 19th century the<br />
restoration of the old factories quite simply has to be seen to<br />
be believed. Enter through the Poznański gate, where workers<br />
used to file through everyday on their way to the mills, and<br />
you’ll arrive at the projects ground zero: the 30,000m 2 Rynek<br />
(main square). Featuring Europe’s longest fountain the square<br />
is the cultural hub, with restaurants, fitness club and IMAX<br />
cinema crowded around it. A full program of events is planned<br />
to keep things lively, including pop concerts, beer festival and<br />
big screen showings of sports events.<br />
Manufaktura is visited by close on 20 million visitors a year and<br />
has become the new heart of the city. For the more languorous<br />
character two electric tramlines have also been added to ferry<br />
visitors from one end of the complex to the other. And in spite<br />
all of this Manufaktura remains very much a work in progress<br />
with new additions and changes happening all the time. The<br />
complex can boast a state of the art 4-star Andels hotel, a<br />
Museum of Art as well as the History of Lodz museum set in<br />
the palace of the former mill owner Izrael Poznanski.<br />
Zbigniew Kotecki, courtesy of Łódź City Council<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Shopping Mall<br />
1<br />
Museum of Art<br />
11<br />
2<br />
Museum of the Factory<br />
8<br />
3<br />
7<br />
9<br />
Craftsman’s alley<br />
4<br />
8<br />
Andels Hotel<br />
5<br />
Real<br />
5<br />
3<br />
12<br />
6<br />
16<br />
Restaurants<br />
Bowling alley, restaurant<br />
Restaurants<br />
Cinema City with 15 screens including 3D IMAX<br />
6<br />
7<br />
15<br />
Museum of the History of Łódź<br />
Kids play and Experymentarium - interactive science museum<br />
8<br />
8<br />
14<br />
9<br />
4<br />
10<br />
10<br />
13<br />
11<br />
The Market Square ‘Rynek’<br />
Mid-size store*<br />
Food court<br />
The Family entertainment centre and restaurants<br />
2<br />
12<br />
13<br />
1<br />
14<br />
15<br />
Disco - Elektrownia<br />
16
114 SHOPPING<br />
Shopping at a Glance<br />
It’s not Dubai, it’s not Hong<br />
Kong, it’s not Milan and it’s<br />
not London. <strong>Warsaw</strong> has a<br />
long way to go before it’s regarded<br />
as a shopping mecca,<br />
but the city is seeing true<br />
growth in the array of shops<br />
available and the number of<br />
big-name labels that are opening storefronts. Whether<br />
it’s western style malls, designer boutiques, dusty family<br />
stores or antique markets a day spent shopping can result<br />
in both bargains and treasures, and there’s presents to be<br />
had for everyone on your list (including yourself).<br />
Wife or girlfriend<br />
When we think of what the ladies would like, one word<br />
comes to mind: amber. Poland is well known as the<br />
best place to find handsomely shaped fossilised resin,<br />
and you can easily nab a piece that will please at the<br />
appropriately named World of Amber or famed Polish<br />
jeweller W. Kruk.<br />
Husband or boyfriend<br />
One word: vodka. Another word: lard. Take home Poland’s<br />
famous nectar and a container of smalec (spreadable<br />
lard) and you’ll make any man happy. Krakowski Kredens<br />
carries tubs of the greasy stuff, while you’ll find<br />
popular Polish vodka brands like Żubrówka and Belvedere<br />
at Chopin Luxury and M&P.<br />
Brother<br />
Euro 2012 may be over, but football is always popular in<br />
Poland and <strong>In</strong>tersport at Zlote Tarasy carries all the<br />
gear to get fully kitted out. Grab your brother an official<br />
national team jersey in bright red and white and he’ll feel<br />
like his sporting best.<br />
Sister<br />
If sis is a stylish gal head to Morka+in Saska Kepa for<br />
the fashion-forward pieces created by Polish designer<br />
Ewa Morka. For high-end options the new domMody<br />
VITKAC is filled with name brands like Gucci and Alexander<br />
McQueen, and the Likus Concept Store is one<br />
of our fashion favourites.<br />
Child<br />
If you’re looking for souvenir-y staples like bright red<br />
Polska onesies and dolls dressed in traditional Polish<br />
garb, look no further than Cepelia. For something on the<br />
educational end of the spectrum we recommend you raid<br />
the Science Store at the Copernicus Science Centre;<br />
games, experiments and books for all ages await.<br />
Mom<br />
Give mom some monk-like zen with soaps and lotions<br />
from Produkty Benedyktyńskie, which carries a variety<br />
of products created by the brothers at Tyniec Abbey in<br />
Krakow. If she skews towards sweets then snag a box<br />
Polish truffles at Pijalnie Czekolady Wedel.<br />
Dad<br />
If your dad is anything like ours he can lose hours of his<br />
life in interesting vintage bookshops. <strong>Warsaw</strong> is packed<br />
with them, and Antykwariat Lamus is one of the best<br />
for old postcards, unique prints, old books and yellowing<br />
maps from last century.<br />
Alcohol<br />
Of course you didn’t come to Poland just for the booze, but while<br />
you’re here it’d be rude not to check out what the country has to<br />
offer. Primarily that means vodka, with the two most highly regarded<br />
clear Polish vodkas being Belvedere and Chopin. Find them in any<br />
alcohol store. Others to watch for include Żubrówka - that’s the one<br />
with the blade of bison grass inside - krupnik, a sweet honey vodka,<br />
and wiśniówka, a sickly sweet cherry drink usually consumed after<br />
meals. Finally, check Goldwasser, a unique elixir characterized by<br />
the 22 karat gold flakes floating in it. Bottle shops are numerous<br />
in Poland, as common as cabbage, though the ones we list come<br />
guaranteed to have no tramps or underage teens.<br />
Chopin Luxury A-4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel.<br />
(+48) 22 222 01 03, www.chopinvodka.com. More than<br />
an off-license, more like everything you’ve ever wished for<br />
before embarking on a Leaving Las Vegas session. Expect<br />
cream-of-the-crop alcohols of every name and origin, not just<br />
Polish. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Ekskluzywne Alkohole M&P E-3, ul. Pańska 81/83,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 652 85 22, www.wina-mp.pl. Wines and<br />
assorted alcohol from Poland and across the world. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Vinoteka La Bodega C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 745 46 10, www.vinoteka.pl. A smart outlet<br />
located in the building that used to serve as the home to the<br />
Polish Communist party. Alongside a very good restaurant<br />
find a retail outlet offering a wide range of wines from around<br />
the world as well as high-end spirits and wine accessories.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.<br />
Amber & Jewellery<br />
Vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland; the<br />
country is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who<br />
handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and coveted<br />
pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing<br />
baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself a stint<br />
in the doghouse. The best place to begin your search is the<br />
Old Town, which is filled with purveyors of amber baubles.<br />
Frey Wille C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. (+48) 22 827<br />
55 03, www.freywille.com. Fine jewellery and fashion accessories<br />
inspired by masters like Klimt and Mucha. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Galeria Artystycznego Rzemiosła B-2, ul.<br />
Świętojańska 23/25, tel. (+48) 22 831 94 23, www.<br />
galeria-czernicki.pl. Old Town store filled with all measure<br />
of amber options as well as glassware, all housed immaculately<br />
behind glass cases. One of the only shops where prices<br />
are clearly displayed on all of the pieces, which gets our<br />
thumbs up. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.<br />
Kelly Melu Al. Jerozolimskie 42, tel. (+48) 22 827 33<br />
74, www.kellymelu.pl. The number of young men jostling<br />
to make purchases for their sweethearts should tell you all<br />
you need to know about Kelly Melu jewellery: it’s popular, it’s<br />
stylish and it’s affordable. The brightly-coloured bracelets<br />
with charms appear to be the current must-have. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Mokobelle G-3, ul. Wilcza 3 (entrance at Mokotowska<br />
54), tel. (+48) 607 07 37 15, www.mokobelle.pl. Modern<br />
jewellery from Polish and other European designers and<br />
friendly staff that’s eager to let you try it on. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
W.Kruk C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19, tel. (+48) 661<br />
98 05 74, www.wkruk.pl. Polish jewellery, amber and<br />
watches from various international brand names including<br />
Emporio Armani, Rolex, Omega, Tag Heuer, Maurice Lacroix,<br />
Longines, Anne Klein. Watches only available at these locations:<br />
(C-4) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 8, ul. Okopowa 58/72 (D-1,<br />
Klif) and Pl. Konstytucji 6 (F-4). QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
World of Amber B-2, ul. Świętojańska 11, tel. (+48)<br />
22 831 16 00, www.worldofamber.pl. This is truth in advertising<br />
at its best. World of Amber is, literally, a world filled<br />
with all things amber. <strong>In</strong>terested in a three-masted pirate ship<br />
made of amber? How about a goblet trimmed in amber? A<br />
glasses case? Beyond these unusual trinkets World of Amber<br />
also has the usual beads, rings, neck-breaking pendants and<br />
bracelets that are a must-have souvenir. The shop has a large<br />
number of knowledgeable staff, which means you’re never<br />
left lingering over a glass case waiting in vain for service.<br />
Which we like even more than the chess set made entirely of<br />
amber. We swear. Also at (B-2) ul. Świętojańska 14, (B-2) ul.<br />
Piwna 12/14 and (B-2) ul. Piwna 26. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.<br />
Antiques & Art Galleries<br />
A walk through the streets of old and new town is usually<br />
enough to fulfil antiquarian designs, as will a short mooch along<br />
Mokotowska. However, anybody whose anybody will tell you the<br />
real treasures are found elsewhere, namely the excellent Bazar<br />
Na Kole, an open-air market where haggling and bargaining are<br />
considered de rigeur. For full details on that check Markets. If<br />
you’re planning on taking an artwork out of the country, and<br />
it was produced prior to 1945, you will need authorisation to<br />
permit you to do so. Most shops will be able to provide you with<br />
this straight off the bat, but do check beforehand.<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
SHOPPING<br />
Anytkwariat Lamus B-1, ul. Nowomiejska 7, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 831 63 21, www.lamus.pl. On first glance you’ll<br />
spot the shelves packed with old books and encyclopaedias<br />
and want to thumb your nose, but a further peek inside<br />
Lamus reveals bins of prints waiting to be sifted through.<br />
Old <strong>Warsaw</strong> cityscapes, drawings of Polish flora and fauna<br />
and even the off bit of vintage erotica can be found by those<br />
intrepid enough to dig, and the walls are hung with old maps<br />
that are also for sale. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 -<br />
15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Desa Modern H-5, ul. Bartycka 116, tel. (+48) 795<br />
12 15 73, www.desamodern.pl. Modern art courtesy<br />
of some of the biggest names in Polish contemporary art<br />
circles. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Galeria aBo Art B-1, ul. Rynek Nowego Miasta 17,<br />
tel. (+48) 604 78 18 81, www.aboart.eu. Miniscule<br />
art gallery that sells only works by Polish artists. Watercolours<br />
of Old Town landmarks, metal art, painted silks,<br />
glassware and jewellery all jumbled together for your<br />
perusal. A unique local offering. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Lapidarium B-1, ul. Nowomiejska 15/17, tel. (+48)<br />
509 60 18 94, www.lapidarium.pl. We can (and probably<br />
have) spend hours at Lapidarium wandering the cluttered<br />
rooms filled with all manner of junk - - and we say that<br />
with love. Old uniforms, reproduction propaganda posters,<br />
busts of Lenin, ancient record players and even old farm<br />
equipment fights for your attention here. Give yourself time<br />
to wander and accumulate a weird selection for purchase.<br />
How to spot this place? Look for the antique bicycle and<br />
spindle sitting outside the entrance. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00,<br />
Sun 13:00 - 19:00.<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
115
116 SHOPPING SHOPPING 117<br />
Krakowskie Przedmieście 47/51<br />
Mon-Fri 11.00-19.00, Sat 11.00-17.00<br />
THE BEST GIFT SHOP IN WARSAW!<br />
• seashells, minerals and fossils<br />
• silver and amber jewellery<br />
• semiprecious stone necklaces<br />
• African and Asian handcraft<br />
• decorative stone products<br />
Credit card charges<br />
If you’re visiting Poland and plan to pay for any purchases<br />
with a credit card whose base currency isn’t<br />
Polish zloty (and unless you’re Polish, this probably<br />
means you) odds are you may find merchants asking<br />
whether you want to be charged in your home currency<br />
or zlotys. At times (though this is more rare)<br />
it’s not even a question – the merchant will simply<br />
take it upon himself to charge your credit card in<br />
your home currency, no questions asked. Don’t fall<br />
into the trap of thinking your credit card company<br />
won’t charge a foreign transaction fee if you opt to<br />
be charged in your native currency; crossing the<br />
border is what they care about, not the currency.<br />
And that’s just one of the reasons why, when given<br />
the choice, it’s in the best interest of your wallet to<br />
choose zlotys.<br />
Why? Because the companies that process<br />
credit card transactions typically tack on fees for<br />
converting the money, and then do so at a lousy<br />
exchange rate. Depending on the size and number<br />
of your purchases while in Poland, the cost can<br />
really add up. Visitors will have to be vigilant and<br />
monitor receipts when paying with a credit card,<br />
and should you be charged in a different currency<br />
put your foot down. Merchants don’t benefit from<br />
those additional fees, only the company that<br />
processes the transaction does. So be firm about<br />
asking to have your purchase refunded and done<br />
over again in zlotys.<br />
Van Den Berg Galeria Sztuki ul. Emilii Plater 12<br />
lok. 1, tel. (+48) 512 57 62 01, www.galeriaberg.<br />
com. What’s a South African doing in <strong>Warsaw</strong>? Selling art,<br />
of course. And not just any art - customers will find the work<br />
of Salvador Dali mingling with that of the owner’s father Riaan<br />
Van Den Berg and Polish artists like Andrzej Krawczak. Owner<br />
Adriaan Van Den Berg amiably guides visitors through the<br />
collection, which includes biographies of all the artists. A<br />
must-visit for devoted art collectors. QOpen 11:30 - 19:00,<br />
Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun.<br />
Books, Music & Films<br />
Good luck finding your morning paper, despite the millions<br />
of flights that land each morning at Okęcie most English<br />
language dailys don’t hit the shops until the afternoon,<br />
sometimes not till the next day. The most comprehensive<br />
source of foreign press can be found at EMPiK, though Traffic<br />
and Relay (main hall of central train station) also stock a<br />
smattering of titles. Also try the newsagents found in five star<br />
hotels. As far as magazines are concerned, EMPiK blows the<br />
competition out of the water, though you can expect to pay<br />
a hefty mark-up for your mag of choice. For books check out<br />
one of the American Bookstores scattered around the city.<br />
EMPiK C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 15/17, tel. (+48) 22 451<br />
04 81, www.empik.com. A hefty selection of international<br />
magazines and newspapers as well as music, video games<br />
and movies. There’s also an EMPiK megastore nearby at<br />
ul. Marszałkowska 116/122 QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun<br />
11:00 - 19:00.<br />
Traffic Club C-4, ul. Bracka 25, tel. (+48) 22 692<br />
14 50, www.traffic-club.pl. Vast multi-level store selling<br />
English-language books, DVDs, CDs and foreign language<br />
press. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.<br />
Fashion & Accessories<br />
The stylish denizens of <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s streets are an easy indicator<br />
that fashion is important in the capital city. Trot out<br />
anything less than your best and it won’t go unnoticed, we<br />
promise you. With the opening of dom mody VITKAC the city<br />
has seen the arrival of major labels like Gucci and Lanvin,<br />
and the Likus Concept Store is a reliable go-to for the latest<br />
designer offerings. But you don’t have to stick to the big<br />
fashion houses here. Polish stores like Tatuum and Morka+<br />
offer distinct style at reasonable prices, so kit yourself out<br />
accordingly. For lots of options in one location check out<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>’s shopping centers like Zlote Tarasy and Arkadia.<br />
Blind Concept Store C-4, ul. Mokotowska 63/100,<br />
tel. (+48) 501 77 06 61. The word quirky was invented<br />
for shops like this one, which sells everything from neoncoloured<br />
rubber flats to tote bags covered in skulls. Eclectic<br />
jewellery and bizarre knickknacks (cupcake-flavoured<br />
lipgloss, anyone?) round out the experience. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Carolina Herrera C-4, ul. Mysia 5, tel. (+48) 22 412<br />
36 00, www.carolinaherrera.com. The eponymous highend<br />
designer opens her first <strong>Warsaw</strong> store for women loyal<br />
to great style. Find clothing, accessories and fragrances<br />
inside this elegant showroom. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun<br />
11:00 - 16:00.<br />
Likus Concept Store C-3, ul. Bracka 9, tel. (+48)<br />
22 310 73 13, www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus<br />
Concept Stores are one of the leading designer brand<br />
retailers in Poland and <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s version is now housed at<br />
Tax Free Shopping<br />
As a traveler residing in a<br />
non-EU country you are entitled<br />
to claim back the VAT on your<br />
purchases when you bring them<br />
home.<br />
You will find Global Blue Tax<br />
Free Shopping service in the<br />
major shops of Poland.<br />
Spend a minimum of 200PLN,<br />
and save up to 12% of the<br />
purchase price.<br />
For more details contact:<br />
Global Blue Polska Sp. z o. o.<br />
Phone: +48 22 500 18 51<br />
e-mail: taxfree.pl@global-blue.com<br />
www.global-blue.com<br />
the high-end dom mody VITKAC shopping centre, where<br />
it rubs shoulders with labels like Balenciaga, Gucci and<br />
Alexander McQueen. Which should tell you straight away<br />
that Likus is no slouch when it comes to fashion: the new<br />
store is well stocked with all the Lanvin, Jimmy Choo and<br />
Yves Saint Laurent you could ask for. The decor of washed<br />
grey walls and shelves of old books - and don’t miss the<br />
antler chandelier near the dressing rooms - make it look<br />
like the most stylish library on earth. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 18:00.<br />
Maciej Zień C-4, ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. (+48) 519<br />
00 00 49, www.zien.pl/pl/butiki. A well-known name<br />
in the Polish fashion industry, Maciej Zień is a Lublin-born<br />
designer whose collections can be found in magazines and<br />
on Polish stars. That said, the store is less intimidating than<br />
Zień’s credentials so pop in and browse. QOpen 11:00 -<br />
19:00. Closed Sun.<br />
TAX FREE SHOPPING - GLOBAL BLUE<br />
Non-EU residents are entitled to claim<br />
a VAT refund when the purchased<br />
goods are exported in an unused<br />
condition outside the EU in personal<br />
luggage. Shop wherever you see the<br />
Global Blue logo. The minimum total<br />
purchase value with VAT per Tax Free<br />
Form is 200pln. Keep the Tax Free<br />
Form, have it stamped when leaving<br />
the final point of departure from the EU and reclaim<br />
your money. For full details check www.global-blue.com.<br />
1 GET IT<br />
Once youíve found that perfect item, remember to ask the shop<br />
staff for a Tax Free Form when youíre paying for it.<br />
2 STAMP IT<br />
When youíre leaving the country to head home<br />
or to continue your journey, take your<br />
purchases, receipt and passport to the customs<br />
desk to get your Tax Free Form stamped. If<br />
youíre travelling on to another EU country, get<br />
the stamp on your Tax Free Form at your final<br />
point of departure from the EU.<br />
3 REFUND<br />
Finally, show your stamped Tax Free Form and<br />
passport to our staff at Global Blue Customer<br />
Services or one of our partner refund points and<br />
theyíll issue your refund immediately.<br />
Moliera 2 B-2, ul. Moliera 2, tel. (+48) 22 827 70 99,<br />
www.moliera2.com. Exclusive two level boutique featuring<br />
collections by Valentino, Salvatore Ferragamo and Ralph Lauren.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Morka + ul. Jana Styki 1 (entrance from ul. Zwycięzców,<br />
Saska Kępa), tel. (+48) 505 82 75 50, www.ewamorka.<br />
pl. This postage stamp-sized Saska Kępa boutique is filled<br />
with the simple styles of local Polish designer Ewa Morka.<br />
Designs cover casual and dress attire, and accessories like<br />
handbags and jewelry are also on display. Browsing in this<br />
mini-boutique will take minutes; it’s deciding how to spread<br />
out your budget to cover all your wants that takes times.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Odzieżowe Pole G-3, ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. (+48)<br />
696 04 95 68. With no sign out front at this new location<br />
there’s a good chance you’ll trot right past Odzieżowe Pole<br />
and not realise what you’re missing. Don’t. Modern city<br />
fashion calls this funky boutique home, and there’s even a<br />
coffee bar offering lattes while you browse. Find everything<br />
from work attire to cocktail dresses on offer, including a<br />
stylish selection of accessories. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 F-4, ul. Hoża 1, tel. (+48) 22<br />
622 14 16, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Label-conscious<br />
shoppers will delight in the mix of designers like Ralph<br />
Lauren, Moncler, Salvatore Ferragamo and TOD’s that are<br />
spread across men’s and women’s apparel and accessories.<br />
Displays of pristinely-folded sweaters are immaculate, and<br />
the staff is eager to search for any size - and have an encyclopaedic<br />
knowledge of which celebrities are sporting which<br />
style. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
118 SHOPPING SHOPPING 119<br />
Secret Life (of things) F-4, ul. Polna 18/20, tel. (+48)<br />
22 412 48 11, www.secretlife.pl. It’s hard to know how<br />
to classify Secret Life since their bright, airy shop is home to<br />
so many different things: there’s a case of unique jewellery,<br />
a room devoted to clothes and shoes, a pile of handbags,<br />
and then a scattering of funky home decor items and knickknacks<br />
that demand your attention. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
TFH Tymczasowy Butik B-4, ul. Szpitalna 8a, tel.<br />
(+48) 509 74 17 89. This one-time pop-up shop has set<br />
down roots finally, which means you’ll know exactly where to<br />
find the city’s hottest fashions. TFH’s new boutique displays<br />
an impressive selection of stylish t-shirts, handbags and<br />
hoodies from over 20 of Poland’s young fashion designers,<br />
including Rozwadowska Bags, Alicja Saar and Odio Tees.<br />
Don’t forget to check out the accessories and large pictorial<br />
books about - what else? - fashion. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 19:00.<br />
Food & Sweets<br />
Food-wise Poland has plenty of edible delights that will<br />
tempt (or shock) your friends, from delicious sausages and<br />
preserves to jars of smalec (yep, that’s spreadable lard for<br />
your bread). Dine in true Polish style long after you’ve leapt<br />
the border by bringing home traditional staples or any number<br />
of the hearty sweets that end every Polish meal.<br />
Krakowski Kredens C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 22, tel. (+48)<br />
696 49 00 11, www.krakowskikredens.pl. Upmarket Polish<br />
delicatessen selling jams, compotes, hams and cheeses.<br />
Also on ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy). Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun<br />
09:00 - 21:00. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 14:00.<br />
Pijalnie Czekolady Wedel B-3, ul. Szpitalna 8, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 827 29 16, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. A Polish<br />
legend that’s been operating since Karol Wedel first<br />
opened a chocolate factory in 1851. Check the handmade<br />
pralines. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 21:00.<br />
Produkty Benedyktyńskie A-2, Al. Jana Pawła II<br />
43a/35, tel. (+48) 22 838 21 02, www.benedicite.pl.<br />
This shop, set up by the Benedictine monks of Tyniec Abbey,<br />
sells such an astounding variety of products - cheese, jam,<br />
wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups, meats - it raises two<br />
eyebrows over how they find the time. All the products are<br />
completely natural, without pigment, and unilaterally excellent<br />
and make excellent gifts and can even be purchased<br />
through their (Polish only) website. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Gifts & Souvenirs<br />
Polish glass and amber are highly thought of, though if<br />
you want something clutz-proof then Polish linen, lace<br />
and woodwork all look lovely on someone else’s mantle.<br />
Folk art is an easily recognizable symbol of Poland, as is a<br />
magnet of the country’s favorite hero and saint-in-waiting<br />
Pope John Paul II. For the lads, pick up a Polski football shirt<br />
or scarf off any of the stalls that spring up unannounced<br />
around central station.<br />
Artis Galeria Sztuki Użytkowej F-3, ul. Emilii Plater<br />
47, tel. (+48) 22 620 59 30, www.artisgaleria.pl. Folkish<br />
souvenirs including religious icons, angels, dolls, tapestries<br />
and carvings. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Art Manus G-4, ul. Mokotowska 41, tel. (+48) 22 627<br />
21 04. Top quality Polish made linen on a street renowned<br />
for its boutique elegance. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00<br />
- 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Cepelia B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, tel. (+48)<br />
22 628 77 57, www.cepelia.pl. <strong>Your</strong> first stop for tacky<br />
souveniers. Amongst the tat also find traditional Polish handicrafts:<br />
table cloths, ceramics, glass etc. Also at ul. Krucza<br />
23 (C-4) and ul. Chmielna 8 (C-3). QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
<strong>In</strong>tersport A-4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. (+48)<br />
12 444 88 88, www.intersport.pl. If you’re a fan of the<br />
Polish national football team this is your HQ for all the official<br />
gear, from jerseys to shorts to the balls themselves. Also a<br />
great spot for general sports apparel should you require it.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.<br />
Neptunea B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 47/51, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 827 97 05, www.neptunea.pl. A weird little find<br />
selling decorative sea shells, minerals, fossils, silver jewellery,<br />
oriental furniture and exotic crafts. An absolute treasure, and<br />
a must visit if you’re looking for a something a little unique.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Rock Shop B-4, ul. Złota 59<br />
(Złote Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22<br />
222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl.<br />
You know a city has<br />
made it when it gets a Hard<br />
Rock Cafe and is there anything<br />
which says ‘I’ve been there’<br />
more than a Hard Rock Cafe<br />
t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the ‘<strong>Warsaw</strong>’<br />
one to add to your collection at the shop inside the HRC in<br />
the Złote Tarasy development opposite the train station. Classic<br />
t-shirts cost 99zł, all others run 105zł. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
Markets<br />
Cheapskates rejoice, while the closure of ‘The Russian<br />
Market’ hit bargain hunters hard <strong>Warsaw</strong> still has a very<br />
decent spread of bazaars. While rumours of pickpockets are<br />
at times exaggerated, do nonetheless exercise a degree of<br />
vigilance while perusing the swag on show.<br />
Koło Bazar D-2, ul. Obozowa 99, tel. (+48) 22 836<br />
23 51. Quality flea market held each weekend from dawn<br />
till dusk. Attracting buyers and sellers from across the<br />
country this is exactly the place if you’ve ever wanted to<br />
own a Prussian helmet or set of palace doors from <strong>In</strong>dia<br />
(yours for 16,000zł). What else can you find? We’ve spotted<br />
pre-war posters advertising Polish toothpaste, early 19th<br />
century postcards, prewar bathroom fixtures and grandfather<br />
clocks. Vinyl records go for as little as 1zł. You’ll even find<br />
the occasional celeb looking for something wacky to fill their<br />
top-floor penthouse with. The traders themselves are a set<br />
of curious characters, and watching these veterans at work<br />
is one reason alone to visit. While early morning is the best<br />
time to snap up the rare finds, 1pm on the closing Sunday<br />
is the time to hit to try and get the last minute bargains. The<br />
golden rule is to haggle at all times. Paying the asking price<br />
means overpaying. QOpen 06:00 - 18:00.<br />
Photography Market F-5, ul. Batorego 10 (Stodoła<br />
Club). Discount camera equipment inside the Stodoła<br />
nightclub. Lenses, lamps, filters, negatives etc. Highly recommended<br />
for those who take their photography seriously and<br />
know what they are looking for. Q Open Sun 10:00-14:00.<br />
Shopping malls<br />
Złote Tarasy A-4, ul.<br />
Złota 59, tel. (+48) 22 222<br />
22 00, www.zlotetarasy.<br />
pl. <strong>Warsaw</strong>’s monstrous train<br />
station now has a new neighbour<br />
- the sparkling Złote<br />
Tarasy complex. Officially<br />
opened on February 7, 2007<br />
by <strong>Warsaw</strong> mayor, Hanna<br />
Gronkiewicz Waltz, the first<br />
afternoon alone saw 64,000<br />
people file through the doors.<br />
The 250 million Euro project<br />
includes 225,000m2 of office, retail and entertainment<br />
space, with underground parking for 1,600 cars. Drawing<br />
more than million visitors each month the complex<br />
signals a bold shift away from the out-of-town malls<br />
found in <strong>Warsaw</strong>, and familiar stores include Marks &<br />
Spencers, Aldo, Poland’s first Body Shop, Hugo Boss,<br />
Van Graf clothes store and EMPiK. For leisure, visitors<br />
can not only visit Poland’s first Hard Rock Café which<br />
is split over 2 levels, but also a multiplex cinema and<br />
more than 20 restaurants and bars spread over 5 levels,<br />
including a Burger King. Designed by Jerde Partnership<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational (whose founder, Jon Adams Jerde, designed<br />
the Olympic Village for LA 1984), the central showpiece is<br />
a 10,000m glass dome, fitted with a special mechanism<br />
to both filter sunrays and to stop snow from building up.<br />
Q Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Klif D-1, ul. Okopowa<br />
58/72, tel. (+48) 22 531<br />
45 00, www.klif.pl. The<br />
nationwide Klif chain have<br />
long been present in <strong>Warsaw</strong>,<br />
though if you think you’ve seen<br />
it all before then think again.<br />
These chaps have rebranded<br />
and re-launched with October<br />
2008 refit resulting in the addition<br />
of new floors, an updated<br />
design and a thorough facelift.<br />
But as with all shopping centres the proof comes in the<br />
pudding, ie the tenants. Now on show are top tags from<br />
MaxMara to PennyBlack, as well outlets for casual faves<br />
like Paul & Shark. For the juniors watch for Casper and<br />
Mothercare. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.<br />
FACTORY Outlet Pl.<br />
Czerwca 1976r. 6 (Ursus),<br />
tel. (+48) 22 478 22 70,<br />
www.factory.pl. This outlet<br />
centre is preoccupied with<br />
fashion, offering top brand<br />
names at 30-70% discounts<br />
over other shopping malls. Recognisable names among<br />
the brands include Pepe Jeans, Wrangler, Wittchen and<br />
more. One of the only such outlet centres in Europe, you<br />
can access it by taking the SKM train from Śródmieście<br />
and getting off at SKM Ursus, or by catching bus 127 at<br />
Dworzec Centralny and switching to bus 194 or 716 at<br />
PKP Wlochy. <strong>Your</strong> final destination will be Ursus-Ratusz.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.<br />
dom handlowy VITKAC C-4, ul. Bracka 9, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 310 73 13, www.vitkac.com. The giant<br />
glowing ‘Gucci’ sign will be your first hint that this isn’t<br />
your typical shopping centre, and the heavy security is<br />
the second. Shoppers can find the popular Likus Concept<br />
Store on the main level of the sprawling structure<br />
while abels like Givenchy, Armani, Dsquared2, Alexander<br />
McQueen and Yves Saint Laurent are spread over the<br />
remaining four levels of shopping space, with roughly<br />
three employees available for every browsing customer.<br />
The atmosphere is more museum than mall, but if you’re<br />
looking to splurge on designer names then this is your<br />
headquarters. If maxing out your credit card works up<br />
an appetite be sure to head to Restauracja Concept 13,<br />
which offers sweeping city views in a modern, open-concept<br />
space. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.<br />
Arkadia D-1, Al.<br />
Jana Pawła II 82, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 323 67 67,<br />
www.arkadia.com.<br />
pl. If you can’t find it in<br />
Arkadia, you probably<br />
never will. Covering a<br />
total area of 287 000<br />
m2 Arkadia stands out<br />
as the biggest shopping mall in Central Europe. The five<br />
floor leviathan contains everything you need to survive<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>, so it’s little wonder we know of people who<br />
spend their lives stalking around its corridors; approximately<br />
45,000 - 70,000 people visit each day. It took<br />
three years of work to complete, and now houses fashion<br />
stores include Lacoste, Peek & Cloppenburg and Tommy<br />
Hilfiger, as well as ubiquitous high street chains like Zara,<br />
Esprit and Kappahl. A giant Saturn store takes care of<br />
all your electronic needs: from DVDs to sound systems.<br />
Carrefour takes a large chunk of the ground floor, though<br />
most expats are making a beeline for the first Mark &<br />
Spencers food department in the country. If you can’t find<br />
what you’re after in there then head to Kuchnie Świata.<br />
The shop is tiny but is home to everything from Marmite<br />
and Pirri Pirri sauce to Weetabix, Cadburys Chocolate<br />
and Dr Pepper. English language books are available<br />
from American Bookstore, and foreign press from EM-<br />
PiK. Entertainment comes in the form of a 15 screen<br />
multiplex. Alongside some very decent dining options<br />
is the microbrewery Bierhalle. Serving homemade beer<br />
and plates of sausages, this is exactly the place to leave<br />
the other half where he will be delightfully happy for a few<br />
hours. Connected by 10 tram lines, 15 bus routes and<br />
with space for 4,000 vehicles. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 21:00.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
December 2012 - January 2013
120 DIRECTORY<br />
24-hour pharmacies<br />
Apteka G-5, ul. Puławska 39, tel. (+48) 22 849 37 57,<br />
www.apteka.jollymed.pl.<br />
Apteka Beata E-2, Al. Solidarności 149, tel. (+48)<br />
22 620 08 18.<br />
Business associations<br />
American Chamber of Commerce F-3, <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
Financial Centre, ul. Emilii Plater 53, tel. (+48) 22 520<br />
59 99, www.amcham.pl.<br />
British Polish Chamber of Commerce G-4, Al. Szucha<br />
3/14, tel. (+48) 22 622 20 56, www.bpcc.org.pl.<br />
Computer repair<br />
iSource C-2, ul. Dobra 56/66 (University Library), tel.<br />
(+48) 22 550 86 86, www.isource.pl. Authorized Apple<br />
products service point. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Consulates & Embassies<br />
Australia B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 11, tel. (+48) 22 521<br />
34 44, www.australia.pl.<br />
Austria H-5, ul. Gagarina 34, tel. (+48) 22 841 00 81,<br />
www.ambasadaaustrii.pl.<br />
Canada C-4, ul. Matejki 1/5, tel. (+48) 22 584 31<br />
00, www.canada.pl.<br />
France G-4, ul. Piękna 1, tel. (+48) 22 529 30 00,<br />
www.ambafrance-pl.org.<br />
Germany G-4, ul. Jazdów 12, tel. (+48) 22 584 17 00,<br />
www.warszawa.diplo.de.<br />
Currency exchange<br />
Changing money is increasingly less fretful to do, but<br />
as with most international destinations it is still worth<br />
keeping checking rates particularly at entry points<br />
such as airports or in major tourist areas. We check<br />
rates of a selection of money exchange offices (kantors)<br />
every two months. Here were their buying rates<br />
(how many zloty you would get for one unit of foreign<br />
currency) for the 23.11.12 compared to the following<br />
National Bank of Poland (NBP) published rates for that<br />
morning of Euro 1 = 4,0655zł, US$ 1 = 3,1580zł,<br />
GBP 1 = 5,0353zł.<br />
Aurex C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 33, tel. (+48) 22 626<br />
92 60, www.aurex.biz.<br />
1 Euro = 4.08zl,<br />
1 Dollar = 3.15zl,<br />
1 Pound = 5.02zl,<br />
No commission.<br />
Kantor A-4, Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59 (level 0), tel.<br />
(+48) 22 222 12 34.<br />
1 Euro = 4.05zl,<br />
1 Dollar = 3.12zl,<br />
1 Pound = 5.00zl,<br />
No commission.<br />
Pekao SA ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48)<br />
22 650 51 88, www.pekao.com.pl.<br />
1 Euro = 3.78zł,<br />
1 Dollar = 2.99zł,<br />
1 Pound = 4.68zł.<br />
No commission.<br />
Ireland C-4, ul. Mysia 5, tel. (+48) 22 849 66 33, www.<br />
embassyofireland.pl.<br />
Israel F-4, ul. Krzywickiego 24, tel. (+48) 22 597 05<br />
00, www.israel.pl.<br />
Italy F-2, Pl. Dąbrowskiego 6, tel. (+48) 22 826 34 71,<br />
www.ambvarsavia.esteri.it.<br />
Lithuania G-3, Al. Ujazdowskie 14, tel. (+48) 22 625<br />
33 68, pl.mfa.lt.<br />
Netherlands H-4, ul. Kawalerii 10, tel. (+48) 22 559<br />
12 00, www.nlembassy.pl.<br />
Norway G-4, ul. Chopina 2a, tel. (+48) 22 696 40 30,<br />
www.amb-norwegia.pl.<br />
Russia G-5, ul. Belwederska 49, tel. (+48) 22 621 34<br />
53, www.rusemb.pl.<br />
Spain G-4, ul. Myśliwiecka 4, tel. (+48) 22 583 40 00.<br />
Sweden G-5, ul. Bagatela 3, tel. (+48) 22 640 89 00,<br />
www.swedenabroad.com/warsaw.<br />
United Kingdom G-4, ul. Kawalerii 12, tel. (+48) 22<br />
311 00 00, www.ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk.<br />
USA G-4, Al. Ujazdowskie 29/31, tel. (+48) 22 504 20<br />
00, poland.usembassy.gov.<br />
Dentists<br />
CCS Ludna G-3, ul. Ludna 10a, tel. (+48) 22 625 01<br />
02, www.ccsludna.pl.<br />
DentaLux D-6, ul. Racławicka 131, tel. (+48) 22 823<br />
72 22, www.dentalux.pl.<br />
Emergency Rooms<br />
Szpital Kliniczny Dzieciątka Jezus A-4, ul. Lindleya<br />
4, tel. (+48) 22 502 15 25, www.szpital-clo.med.pl.<br />
Szpital na Solcu G-2, ul. Solec 93, tel. (+48) 22 250<br />
62 26, www.cmsolec.pl.<br />
Ex-Pat Organizations<br />
Alcoholics Anonymous B-4, ul. Radna 14 flat 3,<br />
www.warsawaa.org. Meetings on Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu<br />
18:30, Fri 20:30 and Sat at 09:45 and 11:00. Note that on<br />
the first Saturday of each month these meetings take place<br />
at ul. Poznanska 38. Meetings at ul. Poznanska 38 also take<br />
place every Sun at 13:30. For more info visit their website.<br />
Fantasy Role-Playing Group, tel. (+48) 505 44 12<br />
71, creativecowboy@yahoo.com. English-language players<br />
welcome for game that constructs collective story narratives<br />
using high-level language communication and a few simple<br />
rules. Wholesome fun, with newcomers always welcome and<br />
encouraged. Contact R.A. for dates, times and locations.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational Women’s Group of <strong>Warsaw</strong>, www.<br />
iwgwarsaw.eu. Meetings are held twice a month on the<br />
second Monday at the Sofitel between 10:30 and 12:30,<br />
and on the fourth Monday of the month at Żółta Kaczka in<br />
Złote Tarasy (A-4, ul. Złota 59) between 10:00 and 11:00.<br />
For more information see www.iwgwarsaw.eu or contact<br />
iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com<br />
Genealogy<br />
National Archive B-1, ul. Krzywe Koło 7, tel. (+48) 22<br />
635 92 68, www.warszawa.ap.gov.pl.<br />
Registry Office E-1, ul. Andersa 5, tel. (+48) 22 443<br />
12 30, www.um.warszawa.pl.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational schools<br />
American School of <strong>Warsaw</strong> ul. Warszawska 202,<br />
Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. (+48) 22 702 85 00, www.<br />
aswarsaw.org.<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry ul. Nobla 16<br />
(Praga Południe), tel. (+48) 22 616 14 99, www.<br />
saint-exupery.pl.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational American School ul. Dembego 18<br />
(Ursynów), tel. (+48) 22 649 14 40, www.ias.edu.pl.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational European School ul. Wiertnicza<br />
140 (Wilanów), tel. (+48) 22 842 44 48, www.ieswarsaw.pl.<br />
The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15 (Mokotów),<br />
tel. (+48) 22 842 32 81, www.thebritishschool.pl.<br />
Language schools<br />
Edu&More B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 87 lok.81, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 622 14 41, www.polishonlinenow.com.<br />
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The Centre for Polish Studies B-3, ul. Świętokrzyska<br />
20, tel. (+48) 22 826 19 04, www.learnpolish.edu.pl.<br />
Private clinics<br />
Damian Hospital G-3, ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. (+48) 22<br />
566 22 22, www.damian.pl. English-speaking doctors<br />
available.<br />
Lux-Med A-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel),<br />
tel. (+48) 22 33 22 888, www.luxmed.pl. Also on<br />
ul. Domaniewska 41a, ul. 17 Stycznia 49, Al. Jana Pawła II<br />
78 (E-1) and ul. Bobrowiecka 1 (H-6).<br />
Real estate<br />
Knight Frank C-3, ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. (+48) 22<br />
596 50 50, www.knightfrank.com.pl.<br />
Ober-Haus Real Estate Advisors B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie<br />
123a, tel. (+48) 22 116 65 00, www.ober-haus.pl.<br />
Long established experts in residential, office, logistics and<br />
retail real estate, both in Poland and the Baltics. Founded<br />
in 1994 the database includes all types of large and small<br />
flats, luxury suites, houses and villas.<br />
Religious Services<br />
St Paul’s English Speaking Catholic Parish C-3,<br />
ul. Radna 14, tel. (+48) 600 38 49 16, www.warsawcatholics.pl.<br />
English-language mass held each Sunday at<br />
11:30. English confessions at 10:30.<br />
Relocation companies<br />
AGS Worldwide Movers ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 702 10 72, www.agsmovers.com.<br />
Take the stress out of an international move with reliable<br />
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Move One Relocations F-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79,<br />
tel. (+48) 22 630 81 69, www.moveoneinc.com.<br />
PRO Relocation B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel.<br />
(+48) 22 630 61 00, www.prorelo.com.<br />
Translators & <strong>In</strong>terpreters<br />
Komputekst ul. Międzyborska 82 (Praga-Południe),<br />
tel. (+48) 22 825 40 50, www.komputekst.pl.<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
DIRECTORY<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
I<br />
t took five seconds to transform Poland<br />
from a country bustling with<br />
confidence into one wracked with<br />
grief on a scale not seen since the Second<br />
World War.<br />
At some point on a nondescript Saturday<br />
morning on April 10, the aircraft carrying<br />
the president, his wife and 94 others<br />
clipped a tree with its left wing as it<br />
approached Smolensk airport in western<br />
Russia. Five seconds later, now devoid of<br />
one wing, it barrel rolled anti-clockwise,<br />
before slamming roof first into the ground.<br />
As news of the accident broke in Poland,<br />
and one by one television channels<br />
interrupted their regular services, news<br />
readers struggled to contain their emotions<br />
as they realised the devastating blow the<br />
Smolensk disaster had dealt the country.<br />
Along with President Kaczynski, and<br />
Maria his wife, the casualty list read like a<br />
who’s who of the Polish elite.<br />
The head of the national bank, the<br />
chief of the armed forces, the heads of the<br />
navy and air force, two ministers, leading<br />
politicians and dozens of others. Many<br />
household names in Poland; now all dead.<br />
The irony that the Tupolev Tu-154<br />
crashed at it was carrying a delegation<br />
to mark the 70th-anniversary of the<br />
Katyn massacre, when Stalin’s henchman<br />
slaughtered Poland’s best, was not lost.<br />
The parents of the pilot in charge of flying<br />
the presidential plane have begged the world<br />
not to blame their son for the crash.<br />
Captain Arkadiusz Protasiuka was the<br />
man responsible for landing the Polish<br />
Air Force Tu-154M safely in Russia on<br />
Saturday 10th April, but, for reason still<br />
unknown, he was unable to successfully<br />
carry out his task.<br />
“The Soviets killed Polish elites in Katyn<br />
70 years ago. Today, the Polish elite died<br />
there while getting ready to pay homage to<br />
the Poles killed there,” said Lech Walesa.<br />
Aleksander Kwasniewski, another<br />
former president, described Katyn as a<br />
“cursed place, and of horrible symbolism”.<br />
As Poles absorbed what Donald Tusk<br />
called the “most tragic event in Poland’s<br />
post-war history” thousands began to<br />
make their way to the presidential palace<br />
in central <strong>Warsaw</strong>, which was to become<br />
the focal point of national mourning.<br />
At noon on Sunday across the nation two<br />
minutes silence was observed in memory<br />
of the people that died in the air crash in<br />
Smolensk. The silence was then pierced by<br />
the claxons and sirens of local authority<br />
warning systems and police vehicles. To<br />
this mournful orchestra of wails, the Polish<br />
nation stood to attention and reflected<br />
on their loss in the forests near Katyn.<br />
<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong>’s Presidential Palace has become the focal point of the nation’s grief<br />
A small patch of flowers and candles<br />
left by mourners expanded and grew,<br />
carpeting the pavement and the road in<br />
a tribute to those who had died. Political<br />
differences vanquished by grief, thousands<br />
upon thousands of people made their way<br />
to the palace to pay their respects in quiet<br />
dignity.<br />
The outpouring of sympathy for the<br />
victims spoke volumes for the shock<br />
and sadness that had touched Poles; it<br />
also spoke volumes for the decency of<br />
Poland.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The tragic death of the head of the<br />
National Bank of Poland Slawomir<br />
Skrzypek in Saturday’s plane crash leaves<br />
questions open about who will replace<br />
him, and how his loss will affect monetary<br />
policy and other issues.<br />
The succession issue is a major one, since<br />
both the parliament and the president<br />
must make the choice jointly.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
© www.prezydent.pl<br />
121
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128 STREET REGISTER<br />
1 Sierpnia D-6/7<br />
29 Listopada H-4<br />
Aleje Ujazdowskie C-4, (G-3/5)<br />
Andersa, gen. A-1/2 (E-1/2)<br />
Anielewicza A-2 (D/E-1/2)<br />
Archiwalna D-5<br />
Armii Ludowej, al. F/H-4<br />
Bagatela G-4/5<br />
Bagno B-3<br />
Banachago D/E-5<br />
Bankowy, pl. A-2 (F-2)<br />
Barbary, św. B-4, (F-3)<br />
Barokowa B-2<br />
Barona D-2<br />
Batorego E/F-5<br />
Bednarska B/C-2<br />
Bellottiego D-2<br />
Belwederska G-5/6<br />
Biała A-3 (E-2)<br />
Białobrzeska D-4/5<br />
Bielańska B-2 (F-2)<br />
Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. D-4/5<br />
Bobrowskiego D-5<br />
Boduena B-3<br />
Bohaterów Getta A-2 (E/F-1)<br />
Bohdanowicza D-6<br />
Boleść B-1<br />
Bonifraterska A/B-1<br />
Bracka C-4<br />
Browarna C-2/3 (G-2)<br />
Brylowska D-3<br />
Brzeska H-1<br />
Brzozowa B-1<br />
Bugaj B-1/2<br />
Bytnara F-6/7<br />
Canaletta B-2<br />
Celna B-1/2<br />
Chałubińskiego A/B-4 (F-3/4)<br />
Chełmska H-6<br />
Chłodna A-3 (D/E-2)<br />
Chmielna A-4, B/C-3/4, (E-3, F-3)<br />
Chocimska G-5<br />
Chodkiewicza E-5/6<br />
Chopina G-4<br />
Ciasna B-1<br />
Ciepła A-3 (E-2)<br />
Cicha C-3<br />
Corazziego B-2<br />
Czackiego B-3 (F-2)<br />
Czerniakowska G/H-3<br />
Czerska H-5/6<br />
Czeska H-2<br />
Dąbrowskiego, pl. B-3 (F/G-6)<br />
Dawna B-1/2<br />
Defilad, pl. B-4 (F-3)<br />
Dickensa D-5<br />
Długa A/B-1/2 (F-1)<br />
Długosza D-2<br />
Dobra C-2/3 (G-1/2)<br />
Dobrzańskiego A-3<br />
Dolna G-6<br />
Drewniana C-3<br />
Dubois A-1 (E-1)<br />
Dzielna A-2 (D/E-1/2)<br />
Dzika D/E-1<br />
Elektoralna A-2/3 (E-2)<br />
Emilii Plater A/B-3/4 (F-3)<br />
Esperanto E-1/2<br />
Etiudy Rewolucyjnej E-7<br />
Filtrowa E-4<br />
Floriańska G-1<br />
Foksal C-3 (G-3)<br />
Franciszkańska A/B-1<br />
Francuska H-2<br />
Frascati C-4<br />
Fredry B-2 (F-2)<br />
Freta B-1 (F-1)<br />
Furmańska C-2 (F/G-2)<br />
Gagarina G/H-5<br />
Gałczyńskiego C-3<br />
Gamerskiego B-2<br />
Geodetów D-5<br />
Gęsta C-2<br />
Gibalskiego D-2<br />
Górnośląska H-3<br />
Górska H-5/6<br />
Górskiego B/C-3<br />
Goszczyńskiego F/G-6<br />
Goworka G-5<br />
Graniczna B-3<br />
Grodzka C-2<br />
Grójecka D/E-4/6<br />
Grzybowska A-3 (E/F-2/3)<br />
Grzybowski, pl. A/B-3<br />
Grzymały D-4<br />
Hoża B/C-4 (F/G-3)<br />
Hynka D-7<br />
Idzikowskiego G/H-6/7<br />
<strong>In</strong>flancka A-1<br />
Iwicka H-5<br />
Jaktorowska D-3<br />
Jana Pawła II, al.<br />
A-2/4, (D/E-1/3)<br />
Jana Sobieskiego G/H-5/6<br />
Jasielska D-6<br />
Jasna B-3, (F-2/3)<br />
Jazdów G-4<br />
Jerozolimskie, Al.<br />
A/C-3/4, (D/G-2/4)<br />
Joliot-Curie F-7<br />
Kacza D-2<br />
Kaliska D-4<br />
Kanonia B-2<br />
Kapitulna B-2<br />
Karasia C-3<br />
Karmelicka A-2 (E-1/2)<br />
Karolkowa D-2/3<br />
Karowa C-2 (F/G-2)<br />
Kasprzaka D-3<br />
Kazimierzowska F-5<br />
Kępna H-1<br />
Kilińskiego B-1/2<br />
Klonowa G-5<br />
Kłopotowskiego G-1<br />
Kolberga F-7<br />
Kolejowa D/E-3/4<br />
Konduktorska G-6<br />
Konopnickiej C-4<br />
Konstytucji, pl. F-4<br />
Konwiktorska A/B-1<br />
Kopernika C-3<br />
Kopińska D-4<br />
Korotyńskiego D-6<br />
Kościelna B-1 (E/F-1)<br />
Koszykowa E/G-4<br />
Kotlarska D/E-2/3<br />
Kozia B-2<br />
Koźla B-1 (F-1)<br />
Krakowskie Przedmieście<br />
B/C-2/3, (F-2)<br />
Krasickiego F/G-7<br />
Krasińskich, pl. B-2 (F-1)<br />
Krasnołęcka H-5<br />
Kredytowa B-3 (F-2)<br />
Krochmalna A-3 (E-2)<br />
Królewska B-3 (F-2)<br />
Krucza C-4 (F/G-3)<br />
Kruczkowskiego C-3 (G-2)<br />
Krywulta C-3<br />
Krzywe Koło B-1<br />
Krzywickiego E-4<br />
Książęca C-4 (G-3)<br />
Kubusia Puchatka C-3<br />
Kusocińskiego G/H-4<br />
Kwiatowa F-5<br />
Lądowa G-5<br />
Lechicka D-7<br />
Lenartowicza F/G-6/7<br />
Lennona G-4<br />
Leszczyńska C-3<br />
Leszno D-2<br />
Leszowa E/F-4/5<br />
Lewartowskiego A-1/2 (E-1)<br />
Lindleya A-4 (E-3/4)<br />
Lipowa C-2<br />
Litewska G-4<br />
Lubelska H-1<br />
Ludna G/H-3<br />
Ludowa G-6<br />
Lwowska F-4<br />
Łazienkowska H-4<br />
Łucka A-3 (E-3)<br />
Madalińskiego F/G-5/6<br />
Majewskiego D-5<br />
Małachowskiego, pl. B-3<br />
Malczewskiego F/G-6<br />
Mariańska A-3<br />
Mariensztat C-2<br />
Markowska H-1<br />
Marszałkowska B-2/4 (F-2/4)<br />
Matejki C-4<br />
Mazowiecka B-3 (F-2)<br />
Miączyńska E-6/7<br />
Miedziana A-4 (E-3)<br />
Miła A-1 (D/E-1)<br />
Miłobędzka E-6<br />
Miodowa B-2 (F-1)<br />
Mireckiego D-2<br />
Mirowski, pl. A-3 (E-2)<br />
Młynarska D-2<br />
Mokotowska C-4 (G-3/4)<br />
Mołdawska D-6<br />
Moliera B-2 (F-2)<br />
Moniuszki B-3<br />
Mostowa B-1 (F-1)<br />
Muranowska A-1 (E-1)<br />
Mysia C-4<br />
Myśliwiecka G/H-4<br />
Na Rozdrożu, pl. G-4<br />
Na Skarpie, al. G-3<br />
Nabielaka G-5<br />
Nalewki A-1/2<br />
Narbutta F/G-5<br />
Narutowicza, pl. D-4<br />
Nehru H-5<br />
Niecała B-2, (F-2)<br />
Niemcewicza D/E-4<br />
Niepodległości, al. F/G-4<br />
Niska A-1, (D/E-1)<br />
Niska D/E-1<br />
Niżyńskiego Pasaż B-3<br />
Nowiniarska B-1<br />
Nowogrodzka A/C-4 (E/F-3)<br />
Nowolipie A-2 (E-2)<br />
Nowolipki A-2 (D/E-1/2)<br />
Nowowiejska E/G-4<br />
Nowy Świat C-3/4 (G-2/3)<br />
Oboźna C-3<br />
Obozowa D-2<br />
Oczki E/F-3/4<br />
Odolańska F/G-6<br />
Odyńca F/G-6<br />
Ogrodowa A-3 (E-2)<br />
Okólnik C-3<br />
Okopowa 1/2-D<br />
Okrąg G/H-3<br />
Okrzei G-1<br />
Oleandrów F/G-4<br />
Olimpijska E-6<br />
Olkuska G-6<br />
Olszewska G-5<br />
Olszowa G-1<br />
Ondraszka E-4/5<br />
Opolski, pl. D-2<br />
Ordynacka C-3 (G-2)<br />
Orla A-2/3 (E-2)<br />
Orłowicza G-3<br />
Ossolińskich B-2<br />
Padewska G-6<br />
Panieńska G-1<br />
Pańska A-3/4 (E-3)<br />
Parkowa G-5<br />
Pasteura D-4/5<br />
Paszyna D-1<br />
Pawia A-2 (D/E-2, E-1)<br />
Pawińskiego D-5/6<br />
Pereca A-3 (E-3)<br />
Piaseczyńska G-6<br />
Piekarska B-2<br />
Piękna F/G-4<br />
Piłsudskiego, marsz. pl. B-3 (F-2)<br />
Piwarskiego G/H-6<br />
Piwna B-2<br />
Płatowcowa E-6<br />
Platynowa E-3<br />
Podchorążych G/H-5<br />
Podwale B-1/2 (F-1)<br />
Pokorna A-1<br />
Polna F/G-4<br />
Poniatowskiego, ks. Al. H-2<br />
Powązkowska D-1<br />
Powstańców Warszawy, pl. B-3<br />
Poznańska B-4 (F-3)<br />
Promenada G-5/6<br />
Prosta A-4 (D/E-3)<br />
Próżna B-3<br />
Prusa C-4<br />
Pruszkowska D-6<br />
Przechodnia A-2/3<br />
Przemyska D-5<br />
Przyokopowa D-3<br />
Przyrynek B-1<br />
Ptasia A/B-3 (F-2)<br />
Puławska G-5/7<br />
Pułku Baszta F-7<br />
Pytlasińskiego G-6<br />
Racławicka D/E-6<br />
Radna C-3<br />
Rajców B-1<br />
Rakowiecka E/G-5<br />
Raszyńska E-4<br />
Rejtana G-5<br />
Rokitnicka E-5<br />
Rostafińskich E-5<br />
Róż, al. G-4<br />
Różana F/G-5/6<br />
Rozbrat G-3<br />
Rycerska B-2<br />
Rynek Nowego Miasta B-1 (F-1)<br />
Rynek Starego Miasta B-1/2<br />
Rysia B-3<br />
Sandomierska G-5<br />
Sanguszki B-1<br />
Sanocka D-5/6<br />
Sapieżyńska A/B-1<br />
Sasanki D-7<br />
Senatorska B-2 (F-1/2)<br />
Schillera B-2 (F-1)<br />
Siedmiogrodzka D-3<br />
Sielecka H-5/6<br />
Siemieńskiego D-5<br />
Sienkiewicza B-3<br />
Sienna A-4 (E-3)<br />
Skaryszewska H-1<br />
Skarżyńskiego D-5<br />
Skierniewicka D-3<br />
Skorochód D-5/6<br />
Sławińska D-3/4<br />
Słoneczna G-5<br />
Słupecka D-4<br />
Smocza D/E-1/2<br />
Smolna C-3/4<br />
Sokola G/H-1/2<br />
Solec G/H-2/3<br />
Solidarności, al.<br />
A/C-1/3, (D/G-1/2)<br />
Sosnowa A-4<br />
Spacerowa G-5<br />
Spartańska E-7<br />
Spiska D/E-4<br />
Srebrna F-3<br />
Stara B-1<br />
Starościńska F/G-5<br />
Starynkiewicza, pl. E-3<br />
Staszica D-2<br />
Stawki A-1 (D/E-1)<br />
Stefana Batorego E/F-5<br />
Stępińska H-5/6<br />
Sulkiewicza G-5<br />
Szara G-3<br />
Szarych Szeregów D-3<br />
Szczęśliwicka D-4<br />
Szczygla C-3<br />
Szkolna B-3<br />
Szpitalna B-3/4<br />
Szucha, al. G-4<br />
Szwoleżerów H-4<br />
Śliska A-4<br />
Świętojańska B-2<br />
Świętojerska A/B-1/2 (E/F-1)<br />
Świętokrzyska B/C-3 (E/G-2/3)<br />
Tagore’a F-6<br />
Tamka C-3 (G-2)<br />
Targowa G/H-1<br />
Teatralny, pl. B-2 (F-2)<br />
Tłomackie A/B-2<br />
Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza<br />
B-2/3<br />
Topiel C-3<br />
Towarowa D/E-2/3<br />
Traugutta B/C-3<br />
Trębacka B-2<br />
Trojdena, ks. D/E-5<br />
Trzech Krzyży, pl. C-4 (G-3)<br />
Tuwima C-3<br />
Twarda A-3/4 (E-3)<br />
Tyniecka G-6/7<br />
Unii Lubelskiej, pl. G-4/5<br />
Ursynowska F/G-6<br />
Wał Miedzeszyński H-2/3<br />
Walecznych H-2<br />
Waliców A-3 (E-2/3)<br />
Wałowa A-1/2 (E-1)<br />
Warecka B/C-3 (F-2)<br />
Waryńskiego F/G-4/5<br />
Wąski Dunaj B-2<br />
Wawelska D/F-4<br />
Widok B-4<br />
Wiecha Pasaż B-3/4<br />
Wiejska C-4 (G-3)<br />
Wierzbowa B-2 (F-2)<br />
Wiktorska F/G-6<br />
Wilanowska H-3<br />
Wilcza B/C-4 (F/G-3/4)<br />
Wileński pl. G-1<br />
Willowa G-5<br />
Winnicka D-5<br />
Wioślarska H-3<br />
Wiślana C-2<br />
Wiślicka D-5/6<br />
Wiśniowa F/G-5, F/G-6<br />
Witosa, al. H-6/7<br />
Wodna B-1<br />
Wójtowska B-1<br />
Wolność D-2<br />
Wołoska E/F-6/7<br />
Wolska D-3<br />
Woronicza E/G-7<br />
Wronia E-2/3<br />
Wspólna A/C-4 (F-3)<br />
Wybrzeże Gdańskie<br />
B/C-1/2, (F-1)<br />
Wybrzeże Helskie C-1 (G-1)<br />
Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie<br />
C-2, (G-1/2)<br />
Wybrzeże Szczecińskie<br />
C-1/2, (G-1/2)<br />
Ząbkowska H-1<br />
Zajęcza C-3 (G-2)<br />
Zakroczymska B-1<br />
Zamenhofa A-1/2 (E-1)<br />
Zamkowy, pl. B-2 (F-1)<br />
Zamoyskiego H-1<br />
Zapiecek B-2<br />
Zawiszy, pl. E-3<br />
Zbawiciela, pl. F-4<br />
Zbierska G/H-5/6<br />
Zgoda B-3/4<br />
Zieleniecka, al. H-1/2<br />
Zielna B-3<br />
Zimna A-3<br />
Złota B-3, A/B-4 (E/F-3)<br />
Zoli G-4<br />
Zwycięzców H-3<br />
Żelazna A-3/4 (E-2/3)<br />
Żelaznej Bramy, pl. A/B-3 (F-2)<br />
Żurawia B/C-4 (F/G-3)<br />
Żwirki i Wigury D/E-4/7<br />
Żytnia D-2<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
BEST WESTERN Hotel Felix<br />
32<br />
BEST WESTERN Hotel<br />
Portos 32<br />
Boutique Bed & Breakfast 31<br />
Campanile 31<br />
Castle <strong>In</strong>n 31<br />
Courtyard by Marriott<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Airport 32<br />
Golden Tulip <strong>Warsaw</strong> Centre<br />
31<br />
Hilton <strong>Warsaw</strong> Hotel &<br />
Convention Centre 30<br />
Holiday <strong>In</strong>n Express <strong>Warsaw</strong><br />
Airport 32<br />
Holiday <strong>In</strong>n Warszawa (Mercure<br />
Warszawa Centrum) 30<br />
Hyatt Regency <strong>Warsaw</strong> 28<br />
Ibis Budget Warszawa<br />
Centrum 32<br />
Ibis Stare Miasto 31<br />
Ibis Warszawa Centrum 31<br />
<strong>In</strong>terContinental 28<br />
<strong>In</strong>terContinental 33<br />
Le Méridien Bristol 28<br />
Mamaison Hotel Le Regina<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> 28<br />
Maria 31<br />
Marriott 28<br />
MDM 32<br />
Metropol 32<br />
Moon 33<br />
Noclegi Okęcie 32<br />
Novotel Warszawa Centrum<br />
30<br />
warsaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Oki Doki 33<br />
P&O Apartments 33<br />
Polonia Palace Hotel 30<br />
Premiere Classe 32<br />
Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel<br />
29<br />
Radisson Blu Sobieski Hotel<br />
30<br />
Residence St. Andrew's<br />
Palace 33<br />
Rialto 29<br />
Sheraton <strong>Warsaw</strong> Hotel 29<br />
Sleepwell Apartments 32<br />
Sofitel <strong>Warsaw</strong> Victoria 29<br />
Start Hotel Atos 32<br />
Team Hostel 33<br />
The Westin <strong>Warsaw</strong> Hotel 29<br />
RESTAURANTS<br />
Adler 39<br />
Aioli Cantine 46<br />
Atelier Amaro 50<br />
Babooshka 54<br />
Banja Luka 36<br />
Bar Mleczny Familijny 46<br />
Barn Burger 36<br />
Besuto 48<br />
Bierhalle 40<br />
Biosfeera 57<br />
Bistro Warszawa 50<br />
Bordo 40<br />
Brasserie Warszawska 41<br />
Browar de Brasil 36<br />
BrowArmia 41<br />
Buddha <strong>In</strong>dian Restaurant 39<br />
LISTINGS INDEX<br />
Symbol Key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
O Casino H Conference facilities<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
R <strong>In</strong>ternet L Guarded parking<br />
F Fitness centre G No smoking<br />
K Restaurant X Smoking room available<br />
D Sauna C Swimming pool<br />
E Live music W Wi-Fi<br />
6 Animal friendly S Take away<br />
I Fireplace J Old Town location<br />
Y Tourist Card accepted<br />
w Wellness<br />
V Home delivery<br />
Burger Bar 37<br />
Butchery & Wine 55<br />
C.K. Oberża 39<br />
Café 6/12 36<br />
Casa Pablo 54<br />
Cesarski Pałac 37<br />
Cesarski Pałac (Tsinghis<br />
Chan) 50<br />
Concept 41<br />
DeCoteria 41<br />
Delicja Polska 51<br />
Dom Polski 51<br />
Downtown Restaurant &<br />
Steakhouse 55<br />
Festa Italiana Ristorante 46<br />
Five 41<br />
Flow 42<br />
Folk Gospoda 51<br />
Frida 56<br />
Fusion 38<br />
Galeria Freta 42<br />
GR Bistro & Restaurant 42<br />
Grand Kredens 42<br />
Green Bar 57<br />
Halka restauracja po polsku<br />
51<br />
Hard Rock Cafe 34<br />
Hard Rock Cafe 36<br />
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino 38<br />
China Garden 37<br />
Chłopskie Jadło 51<br />
<strong>In</strong>aba 48<br />
Kamanda Lwowska 57<br />
Kiku Japanese Dining<br />
Gallery 48<br />
Kintaro Sushi 48<br />
Kosmos Kosmos 42<br />
La MaMa 34<br />
La Rotisserie 38<br />
Le Cedre 84 49<br />
Legends British Bar &<br />
Restaurant 36<br />
Leniwa Gospodyni 46<br />
Literatka 52<br />
Little Thai Gallery 56<br />
Masz Gulasz 52<br />
McDonald's 36<br />
Meat Love 43<br />
Mleczarnia Jerozolimska 46<br />
Na Zielnej 43<br />
Nam Sajgon 57<br />
Namaste <strong>In</strong>dia 39<br />
Namaste <strong>In</strong>dia Clay Oven 39<br />
Natara 56<br />
Nolita 43<br />
Nu Jazz Zone 47<br />
Oberża Pod Czerwonym<br />
Wieprzem 52<br />
Ole Tapas Steak Restaurant<br />
55<br />
Olive Garden 49<br />
Osteria 54<br />
OTO!SUSHI 48<br />
Papaya 57<br />
Paros 49<br />
Piękna 56 43<br />
Piękna Bistro 43<br />
Pierrogeria 52<br />
Podwale - Kompania Piwna<br />
44<br />
Polka, Magda Gessler po<br />
prostu 52<br />
Prosta Historia 37<br />
Radio Café 53<br />
Rambam Kosher Cafe &<br />
Restaurant 48<br />
Restauracja Concept 13 44<br />
Restauracja Kultura 44<br />
December 2012 - January 2013<br />
129
130<br />
LISTINGS INDEX<br />
Restauracja Różana 53<br />
Restauracja Wilanów 44<br />
Restaurant @Ferdy's 44<br />
Restro 44<br />
Roma 47<br />
Roma Bukieteria 47<br />
Saffron Spices 40<br />
Saint Jacques 38<br />
SAM Restaurant & Bakery<br />
45<br />
Sheesha Lounge 40<br />
Sioux 34<br />
Siriana 49<br />
Skwer - filia Centrum<br />
Artystycznego Fabryka<br />
Trzciny 45<br />
Słony 53<br />
smaczneGO! 57<br />
Socjal 45<br />
Sol y Sombra 55<br />
Solec 44 45<br />
SomePlace Else 34<br />
Sowa i Przyjaciele 45<br />
STO900 46<br />
Strauss Restaurant 53<br />
Subway 36<br />
T.G.I. Friday's 34<br />
The Mexican 56<br />
The Oriental 37<br />
Theatro 38<br />
Tomo Sushi 48<br />
Trattoria Rucola 47<br />
U Barssa 53<br />
U Fukiera 54<br />
U Kucharzy 54<br />
U Szwejka 37<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Tortilla Factory 56<br />
Wiking 46<br />
You & Me 36<br />
Zapiecek 54<br />
Żurawina Rest & Wine 46<br />
CAFÉS<br />
Blikle Café 58<br />
Bubbleology 58<br />
Cafe Baguette 58<br />
Cafe Próżna 58<br />
Café Vincent 58<br />
Chłodna 25 58<br />
Coffee Karma 58<br />
Costa by Coffee Heaven 58<br />
Green Caffe Nero 58<br />
Lody na Patyku 58<br />
Loft 58<br />
Ministerstwo Kawy 58<br />
Karmello 59<br />
Moments Tasty Life 59<br />
Petit Appetit 59<br />
Piękna Bistro - Espresso 59<br />
Pijalnie Czekolady Wedel 59<br />
Słodki Słony 59<br />
Starbucks Coffee 59<br />
To Lubię 59<br />
Wawel 59<br />
NIGHTLIFE<br />
Bank Club 67<br />
Beirut Hummus & Music Bar<br />
60<br />
Bierhalle 60<br />
Bierhalle 69<br />
Bollywood Lounge 67<br />
British Bulldog Pub 60<br />
BrowArmia 69<br />
Bufet Centralny 60<br />
Cafe Kulturalna 60<br />
Club Capitol 67<br />
Club Mirage 67<br />
Coyote Bar & Night Club 71<br />
de lite club 68<br />
Dekada 68<br />
Fabryka Trzciny 68<br />
Foksal XVIII 68<br />
Hard Rock Cafe 62<br />
Hydrozagadka 62<br />
Champions Sports Bar &<br />
Restaurant 62<br />
JP's Bar 62<br />
Jung & Lecker 64<br />
Kafefajka 62<br />
Klaps 62<br />
Kokomo 71<br />
Konstytucja Klubokawiarnia<br />
63<br />
Kwadrat 63<br />
Legends British Bar &<br />
Restaurant 63<br />
Legends British Bar &<br />
Restaurant 64<br />
Libido Gentleman's Club 71<br />
Metro Jazz Bar & Bistro 65<br />
New Orleans Gentlemen's<br />
Club 71<br />
Nu Jazz Zone 65<br />
Opera 68<br />
Organza 68<br />
Panorama Bar & Lounge 63<br />
Paparazzi 63<br />
Pardon, To Tu 64<br />
Patrick's Irish Pub 64<br />
Piękna Bistro 65<br />
Pies Czy Suka/Pure Bar 64<br />
Plan B 64<br />
Platinium Club 69<br />
Features index<br />
Ask your Concierge 30<br />
Breakfast 36<br />
Cemeteries 78<br />
Climate 17<br />
Credit Card Charges 116<br />
Currency exchange 120<br />
Disaster at Smolensk 29<br />
Eating at a glance 34<br />
Facts & Figures 17<br />
Gestapo HQ 82<br />
Hot Beer 57<br />
Chocolate Lounges 59<br />
Christmas in Poland 8<br />
Jan III Sobieski 104<br />
Kościuszko Monument 80<br />
Krakowskie Przedmieście 1 76<br />
Krakowskie Przedmieście 1 77<br />
Language Smarts 19<br />
Lodgings at a glance 28<br />
Market Values 18<br />
Milk Bars 46<br />
National Holidays 19<br />
Night at a glance 60<br />
Palmiry 84<br />
Polish Food 52<br />
Polish Friends of Beer Party 62<br />
Presidential Palace 83<br />
Quick Currency Convertor 18<br />
Ronald Reagan Monument 86<br />
Rosa Luxembourg 79<br />
Royal Castle 85<br />
Shopping at a Glance 114<br />
Smoking 53<br />
Stanislaw Poniatowski 81<br />
Street Signs 13<br />
The Citadel 82<br />
The <strong>In</strong>comes House 54<br />
Three Kings 54<br />
Tipping Tribulations 51<br />
Vice Advice 70<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Central Station 16<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Historical Timeline 73<br />
Witold Pilecki 31<br />
Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra 64<br />
Room 13 Club & Lounge 69<br />
Sheesha Lounge 65<br />
Sketch 65<br />
Skwer - filia Centrum<br />
Artystycznego Fabryka<br />
Trzciny 65<br />
Sofia 71<br />
SomePlace Else 64<br />
SomePlace Else 65<br />
Śródmiejska 65<br />
The Eve Music Club 69<br />
W Oparach Absurdu 66<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Tortilla Factory 64<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> Tortilla Factory 66<br />
Warszawa Powiśle 66<br />
Watch Me 69<br />
Znajomi Znajomych 66<br />
Żurawina Rest & Wine 64<br />
<strong>Warsaw</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> warsaw.inyourpocket.com
We invite you to dinner on New Year’s Eve 2012/2013.<br />
Dinner will be served in our stylish villa,<br />
where the beautiful, intimate interior will soothe your eyes,<br />
the fine cuisine will be nectar to your palate<br />
and the warm atmosphere and live music will lift your spirits into the New Year.<br />
On New Year’s Day we invite guests for Brunch at 14:00.<br />
11 Francuska St., <strong>Warsaw</strong>, Ph. 22 616 24 32, 22 616 24 88<br />
www.restauracjadompolski.pl