BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

BUYING I GUIDE
CARIGNAN
90
Odfjell 2006 Orzada Carignan
(Maule Valley); $20. Cola, sarsaparilla
and fine rubber give this wine a dark personality
that’s infused with brighter raspberry and
black cherry. The palate has a thick, chewy,
mature feel to it, while the flavors are earthy,
rambunctious and savory. Finishes creamy and
full, with easing tannins and nice fruity leftovers.
Drink now through 2011. Imported by Select
Fine Wine. —M.S.
90
Odfjell 2007 Orzada Tres Esquinas
Organic Carignan (Maule Valley);
$20. Sweet smelling, with hints of tree bark,
molasses and rooty cola. The palate is softer and
easier than some Cauquenes Carignans, but it’s
deep and satisfying, with flavors of blackberry,
cola and fine herbs. Among Chile’s emerging crop
of high-end Carignans, this is one to try immediately
and over the next two or three years.
Imported by Select Fine Wine. —M.S.
90
Santa Ema 2006 Amplus Old Vines
Carignan (Peumo); $27. A rock-solid
wine with bright currant, berry and rooty, colainfused
aromas. The mouthfeel is excellent and
integrated, with earthy, savory, spicy flavors of
blackberry, cherry and tea. Long and savory on
the finish, with complexity. Wines like this are
what make the Chilean Carignan category worth
exploring. Drink now through 2012. Imported by
T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
89
Santa Ema 2007 Amplus Old Vine
Carignan (Peumo); $30. Bold, dark,
full and saucy, with aromas of plum and blackberry.
Jammy but lively on the palate, with vanilla
sweetness offsetting plum, blackberry, leather
and savory notes. This is true Peumo Carignan
with potency and blazing acidity. It’s not as flavorful
and complete as the 2006, but maybe it just
needs another year or two in bottle. Imported by
T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
87
Morandé 2007 Edición Limitada
Carignan (Loncomilla Valley); $22.
An aggressive, forward, high-acid wine with a lot
of quality as well. The nose mixes dried cheese,
leather, heat and savory red fruit aromas, while
the palate rides a tight line of acidity toward
angular raspberry and cherry flavors. Very zesty,
tart and lively, but also deep in terms of mineral-
ity, freshness and potency. Drink now through
2012. Imported by Morande USA. —M.S.
CARMENÈRE
90
Santa Carolina 2008 Reserva de
Familia Carmenère (Rapel Valley);
$20. This particular wine is fast becoming one of
Chile’s go-to Carmenères. For the second year in
a row it impresses with a heady nose of black
fruits, pastry and cola. After that, you get a palate
full of spicy, rich baked berry, dusty pepper and
smoked meat. As a whole it offers character,
structure and kick. Imported by QW Wine
Experts. —M.S.
89
San Pedro 2008 1865 Single Vineyard
Carmenère (Maule Valley);
$19. A controlled opening is welcome, as are the
soft, smooth aromas of tobacco, dark plum and
warm earth. Full and generous in the mouth,
with heft and balance. Tastes like a mix of roasted
dark plum, blackberry, fig and spice. Big and
blowsy, but it emphasizes what’s good about new
age Carmenère. Imported by Shaw-Ross International
Importers. —M.S.
88
Carmen 2007 Reserva Carmenère-
Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Val-
ley); $20. Dry, leafy and herbal, with cherry,
berry and mossy aromas. The palate is meaty and
chewy, with an extra dose of heft and body to
support black fruit and herbal flavors. The finish
is kind of quick and mild, but also clean and satisfying.
A nice mixture of Carmenère and
Cabernet Sauvignon. Imported by Aveniu
Brands, Inc. —M.S.
88
Concha y Toro 2008 Marques de
Casa Concha Carmenère (Peumo);
$22. Nice and aromatic, with cola, tobacco,
fallen dried leaves and dark fruits. The palate has
some scratch and acidity to it, but the flavors are
good and lively, with a focus on dark plum and
cherry. A bit more acidic than I like, but still
healthy and very nice for varietal Carmenère.
Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.S.
88
Crucero 2008 Carmenère (Colchagua
Valley); $10. Herbal, powerful
and varietally on the money, with common but
well-executed aromas of earth, blackberry and
olives. The palate offers proper weight and intensity,
while the flavors of black plum, raspberry
and tea are just herbal enough to scream out
7 0 | W I N E E N T H U S I A S T | D E C E M B E R 1 , 2 0 1 0
“Carmenère.” Tasty and consistent from nose to
finish. Imported by Kysela Père et Fils. Best
Buy. —M.S.
86
Asunto de Vino 2008 Carmenère
(Central Valley); $12. Nice and
familiar for the variety, with common herbal,
beefy, black fruit aromas followed by a chunky
palate of blackberry, black cherry, mocha and
herbs. Clean and solid on the finish, with 15%
Cabernet in the blend. Imported by Testa Wines
Of The World. —M.S.
86
Calina 2009 Reserva Carmenère
(Maule Valley); $10. Warm, syrupy,
jammy and brambly up front, with the grape’s
typical meaty, herbal aromas. The palate is soft
save for core acidity, while the flavors run
medium-rich and plummy, with controlled sourness.
Solid for the money, with a chunky disposition.
Imported by Sovereign Wine Imports. Best
Buy. —M.S.
86
Concha y Toro 2008 Xplorador
Carmenère (Central Valley); $8.
Rich and concentrated for an entry-level wine,
with earthy, bold aromas and a lush, well-balanced
palate feel. Deep and sweet in terms of flavor,
with a mix of ripe black fruits and herbs.
Shows a bit of faux oak flavor on a mocha-tinged
finish. Exemplary for this price range. Imported
by Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S.
86
Viña Bisquertt 2007 La Joya
Reserve Carmenère (Colchagua
Valley); $12. Kind of generic on the nose,
with licorice and shy black fruit and herbal aromas.
The palate is chunky and thick, with
blocky flavors of baked black fruits, olive and
caramel. A chunky, ripe wine with a hint of
raisin and a broad mouthfeel. Imported by
Prestige Wine Group. —M.S.
85
El Huique 2007 Reserve Carmenère
(Colchagua Valley); $13. A
bit sharp and volatile at first, but with time the
aromas mellow out to rest on black fruits and
olive. The palate has a lively kick to it but it’s also
sort of hard and heavy, with roasted, basic black
fruit and herbal flavors. Caramelized on the finish,
but aggressive as a whole. Imported by
Vidalco International, LLC. —M.S.
85
San Elias 2008 Carmenère (Central
Valley); $9. Earth, leather and roasted
berry fruit are exactly what a wine of this base