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BUYING I GUIDE Grenache and Syrah added; it is light and scented with sweet cracker. Fruit flavors favor cherry candy, with a leathery, tackroom undertone. The tannins are leathery and stick to the tongue, dampening the fruit. —P.G. 84 Airfield Estates 2008 Spitfire Red (Yakima Valley); $25. This is 60% Sangiovese, the rest a mix of Bordeaux grapes. Airfield Estates produces a wide variety of mixed red blends, each centered upon a particular grape. But here, as with the others, the dominant grape’s varietal character is subsumed in a wash of mixed reds, and the results tend to seem generic. Pleasant, quaffable, but without varietal distinction. —P.G. 84 Cave B 2008 Tempranillo (Columbia Valley); $28. It’s hard to distinguish much in the way of varietal character here, other than the higher acidity and hints of tobacco leaf. Otherwise, it’s a thin, generic red wine. —P.G. 83 Airfield Estates 2008 Bombshell Red (Yakima Valley); $16. A broadly fruity mélange of red grapes, moderately tart and pleasant enough as a simple pizza and pasta red. At the listed 14.4% alcohol, you might hope for a bit more concentration. —P.G. 82 Mount Baker 2007 Proprietor’s Limited Release Petit Verdot (Yakima Valley); $20. Petit Verdot is not an easy grape; here it turns volatile, the grapes pruney, and the finish tannic and short. —P.G. 82 Mount Baker 2008 Proprietor’s Limited Release Zinfandel (Red Mountain); $30. This Zinfandel tastes barely ripe; there is little or no fruit flavor, just a leafy, light, generic wine that quickly disappears from the palate. —P.G. ROSÉ WINES 84 Patterson Cellars 2009 Rosé (Washington); $15. This rosé is done by the saignée method, bleeding off excess juice from the fermenting tanks. It’s 48% Syrah and 52% Cabernet Franc, yielding a hard-edged yet buttery wine with lightly peppery, watermelon flavors. Not for everyone, but distinctive. —P.G. 83 Martinez & Martinez 2009 Cabernet Blanca Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills); $15. Like a white Zinfandel, this is a sweet, sugary, raspberry- and strawberry-flavored wine for chilling and sipping. —P.G. WASHINGTON WHITE WINES CHARDONNAY 91 L’Ecole No. 41 2009 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley); $20. This is pure Chardonnay, from cool-climate sites, showing a lean, sculpted spine that both defines and expands the flavors. Exceptionally complex for Washington Chardonnay, with good natural acidity, a mix of peach, apple and pineapple fruit, and a finish that shows tight layering. There is a dense core that should unravel with bottle age; this is that rare Washington Chardonnay that will prosper with cellaring. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 91 Tranche 2007 Chardonnay (Columbia Gorge); $30. This is tight when first opened, with a hard-edged herbal character. Beneath that shell are richer, tropical fruit flavors of ripe banana, yellow apple and a hint of papaya; and with plenty of breathing time the wine softens and opens out. Roughly two thirds of the barrels were new French oak; and that is still being resolved into the fruit. This wine has a good 6–8 years of life ahead of it, but if you are drinking it now, decant it. —P.G. 88 Arbor Crest 2008 Connor Lee Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia Valley); $18. Sweet oak and lightly tropical fruit flavors characterize this young, tight, full-bodied Chardonnay. With another year or two in bottle, the fruit should emerge from behind the new oak flavors and enhance the overall balance. In the meanwhile, decanting is a good idea. —P.G. 88 Milbrandt 2009 Evergreen Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia Val- ley); $23. From the Evergreen Vineyard, in the Ancient Lakes region north of the Wahluke Slope, this is surprisingly high-powered, at 13.9% alcohol, with a big smack of oak in the nose. That oak is wrapped around green banana and green apple fruit, with a little vanilla on the side. As 6 6 | W I N E E N T H U S I A S T | D E C E M B E R 1 , 2 0 1 0 young as it is, it seems likely to knit together and improve over the next year or two. —P.G. 87 Milbrandt 2009 Traditions Chardonnay (Columbia Valley); $13. Clean, fresh and simple, this does not claim to be “unoaked” but it carries that style in its flavors, a snappy mix of green apple, pineapple and grapefruit. Good everyday drinking. —P.G. 85 Airfield Estates 2009 Unoaked Chardonnay (Yakima Valley); $12. Juicy fruit gum flavors abound, a mix of citrus rind and candy. It must be chilled and enjoyed for its forward, simple fruit flavors. —P.G. 84 Cave B 2008 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley); $20. Barrel fermented, with light flavors of peaches and cream, and a watery mouthfeel that does not quite come together. —P.G. 83 Mount Baker 2008 Proprietor’s Limited Release Chardonnay (Yakima Valley); $17. Short and sharp, this “Proprietor’s Limited Release” is simply a plain, generic style, with a bitter finish. —P.G. 82 Patterson Cellars 2009 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley); $21. Barrel fermented, 20% of it new French oak, this is a bright lemon yellow, with scents of wood and toast. There’s a slim streak of something else in the aromas that seems not quite right, a little fishy smell. The wine does not come together in the mouth; it’s a jumble of round stone fruits, cardboard and a slightly rancid finish. —P.G. RIESLING 92 Nefarious Cellars 2009 Stone’s Throw Vineyard Riesling (Columbia Valley); $18. This is estate grown, from a Lake Chelan winery in an emerging region. Riesling is clearly a strength, as this has a delicate elegance often missing from the fruit bombs that can be grown in warmer sites. Bone dry, dusty and lightly floral in the nose. The balance of blossom, yellow fruits, juicy acidity and wet rock is impeccable; the wine extends itself gracefully into a lingering finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 88 Cave B 2009 Riesling (Columbia Valley); $18. Fruity and full-flavored, this quaffable Riesling brings a full share of
peachy fruit, honeysuckle and English breakfast tea. The residual sugar is just over 1%, and the acids compensate, giving it good balance. —P.G. 88 Milbrandt 2009 Traditions Riesling (Columbia Valley); $13. At just 12.5% alcohol, this comes across as dry and quite fresh, with vivid grapefruit flesh and acidity. Some mint and lemon flavors sneak in also. The emphasis is clearly on citrus rather than peach or apricot; a fine food wine. Best Buy. —P.G. 85 Mount Baker 2009 Proprietor’s Limited Release Riesling (Yakima Valley); $15. Simple and straightforward, this fruity wine offers lemon/lime fruit and moderate acidity. Fine for everyday consumption, best chilled. —P.G. SÉMILLON 91 L’Ecole No. 41 2008 Fries Vineyard Sémillon (Wahluke Slope); $20. This pure varietal, single-vineyard, barrel-fermented wine perfectly captures the baseline flavors and qualities of the best Washington Sémillons. Complex and slightly high-toned, it brings ripe stone fruits, a hint of honeyed tea, impressive length and penetration, and a waxy, polished, lingering finish. —P.G. 91 L’Ecole No. 41 2009 Sémillon (Columbia Valley); $15. Blended with 17% Sauvignon Blanc, this lovely Sémillon is exceptionally fragrant, satiny and rich, with fleshy, ripe fruits and just a hint of toast. A warm streak of caramel enlivens the finish, which lingers gracefully and fills the palate with delicious flavors of apples and spicy pears. Best Buy. —P.G. 90 Davenport Cellars 2009 Barrel Fermented Sémillon (Columbia Valley); $19. Thick, ripe, creamy and luscious, this 15.4% Sémillon carries itself with grace and style. The dense fruit flavors mix peaches, apricots, pears and spicy apples; with a hint of caramel and brown sugar. Though quite dry, it has so much fruit as to seem lightly sweet, and the high alcohol does not take away from the complexity. If it were not fermented dry, this would be a stunning late harvest dessert wine. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 90 Fidelitas 2008 Sémillon (Columbia Valley); $30. A fine example of pure, varietal, Columbia Valley Sémillon, this is like liq- uid honey, without the sweetness. It’s more like the essence of honey flavor, coating the mix of peach, pear and fig fruits. Smooth as silk, supple and soft, it’s a lovely effort. —P.G. 86 Cave B 2008 Sémillon (Columbia Valley); $20. This spent almost a year in mostly neutral oak, and has softened into a wine loaded with lemony, peachy fruit, so thick as to seem almost syrupy in the mouth. Fruit-driven and forward, it is ready to drink and should be chilled for the best flavor. —P.G. VIOGNIER 92 Stevens 2009 Divio Viognier (Yakima Valley); $21. Aromatically forward and lush, this greets you with lemon polish, beeswax, Satsuma oranges, and Key lime, backed with barrel-influenced coconut flavors. The flavors meld together in the mouth, holding firm with extra phenolic density through a lipsmacking, luscious and lingering finish Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 89 Nefarious Cellars 2009 Defiance Vineyard Viognier (Lake Chelan); $19. There is a lovely balance to this Viognier, and a sense that these cool-climate grapes were not pushed too far. The winemaker, happily, chose to make the wine that the vineyard gave her. Delicate and layered, with paper-thin suggestions of citrus rind, grapefruit and white peach. Still tightly knit, this wine very slowly unwinds long after you’ve swallowed that first sip or two. —P.G. 85 Cave B 2009 Viognier (Columbia Valley); $20. Pleasant and straightforward, with light fruit flavors of citrus and white peach. It’s simple, slightly dilute, with an awkward resolution. —P.G. 83 Martinez & Martinez 2009 Alder Ridge Vineyard Viognier (Horse Heaven Hills); $18. There is noticeable residual sugar, giving the wine a sweet, honeyed flavor. Along with that you’ll find some citrusy fruit, with a bitter edge. —P.G. OTHER WHITE WINES 94 Tranche 2008 Viognier-Roussanne (Columbia Valley); $30. Rich, almost unctuous, with a lush, lanolin mouthfeel, this is a passionfruit creamsicle of a wine. The fruit is a seductive and generous mix of peach, Asian pear and tropical; the alcohol a full-bodied 14.5%. The Roussanne part (58% of the blend) is barrel fermented; the Viognier done in stainless. Blended together they harmonize beautifully. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 91 Stevens 2009 AnotherThought Sauvignon Blanc (Yakima Valley); $19. This is just the third Sauvignon Blanc from Stevens (none was made in 2008), sourced from Klipsun vineyard and stainless steel fermented. Richly textural, with a creamy minerality, this has a pleasing intensity, a sort of nervosity (as the French might put it), limned with a sweet grain character. The fruits are tart and racy, a mix of citrus rind and pulp, tangerine and pineapple, finished with natural acidity. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 90 L’Ecole No. 41 2009 Walla Voila Chenin Blanc (Columbia Valley); $14. You’ll find beautiful, lush, complex, fruitdriven aromas here, as with all the L’Ecole white wines. This captures the complexity of the grape—rarely seen in domestic Chenin Blanc— ripe apples, spice, hints of honey and caramel, and a lovely, persistent floral overtone. In short, this is the Chenin Blanc that should be made, that can be made, and that is rarely made in this state. Best Buy. —P.G. 89 Davenport Cellars 2009 Snowflake White Wine (Columbia Valley); $16. Three quarters Sauvignon Blanc and the rest Sémillon, this attractive white wine has an appealing snap to the fruit and an underlying acidity that sets it up in lively fashion. It’s a food wine through and through, lightly toasty, with green berries and apples providing the clean fruit flavors. A fine value. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 88 Fidelitas 2008 Optu White Wine (Columbia Valley); $25. A white Bordeaux blend of 56% Gamache vineyard Sauvignon Blanc and 44% Stillwater Creek Sémillon. This is sleek and spicy, with a fresh mouthfeel. The juicy acidity supports flavors of lime, lemon and grapefruit, with a slight toastiness kicking in on the finish. —P.G. 88 Nefarious Cellars 2009 Consequence White Wine (Washington); W i n e M a g . c o m | 6 7
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Gainey 2008 Limited Selection 95 Pi
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