BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

BUYING I GUIDE
87
Fidelitas 2007 Merlot (Columbia
Valley); $25. Fidélitas offers three different
Merlots in its lineup, this being the least
expensive. It’s a fine, everyday bottle, broadly
displayed over the core fruit flavors of plum and
boysenberry. There are lightly applied highlights
of fresh spring herbs, and almost no traces of
barrel toast in the finish, just tart and tasty
fruit. —P.G.
CABERNET FRANC
92
Nefarious Cellars 2008 Cabernet
Franc (Wahluke Slope); $29. The
word inky must have been invented for this pure
Cabernet Franc, sourced from the Weinbau
vineyard (the label is misprinted). In the world of
Cabernet Franc, many are called, and few are
chosen. This is one of the chosen. Dense, tightly
threaded with smoke, earth, black olive, black
cherry, cassis and mocha scents and flavors, this
nonetheless drinks smoothly. The tannin management
is superb, softening up the hard edges
without stripping the wine of flavor. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
91
Stevens 2008 Franc Cabernet
Franc (Yakima Valley); $30. The
fruit is half Sheridan and half Dineen vineyard.
Although stylistically a brother to the Stevens
Merlot, this has the varietal earmarks of Cabernet
Franc – some green, leafy streaks, more spice
and sharpness to the tannins, and a definite
herbal component. The fruit is an equal but not
dominant partner – blackberry, cassis, and black
olive, finished with a whiff of very dark chocolate.
—P.G.
83
Cave B 2008 Cabernet Franc
(Columbia Valley); $28. Cabernet
Franc often shows more stem and herb than
either Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon, but here
there is little else to hang your hat on. Hard,
chewy and tannic, it might best be drunk with a
grilled steak, so those tough tannins are put to
work. —P.G.
MALBEC
90
Stevens 2008 Timley Malbec
(Yakima Valley); $34. Sharply acidic,
deep in color, and a bit more fruit forward than
the other Stevens reds, this is loaded with sweet
plum and delicious cinnamon-infused baking
spices. Young vines are the reason, adding light
floral top notes, with powdered sugar and sweet
candied grape in the finish. —P.G.
88
Nefarious Cellars 2008 Upland
Vineyard Malbec (Snipes Moun-
tain); $28. This new Malbec is a soft, fruity,
extremely dark wine, with scents of raisins and
pretty fruit flavors of boysenberries and black
cherries, with lighter streaks of coffee and
caramel woven through. The balance is excellent,
though the wine does not show the depth
of flavor that is expressed in its inky dark
colors. —P.G.
86
Fidelitas 2007 Malbec (Columbia
Valley); $35. Pure varietal, with ripe
fruit hinting at an encroaching pruney flavor, this
is wrapped in the big flavors of barrel toast,
smoke and coffee. Quite consistent with the overall
style of winemaker Charlie Hoppes, this is one
of those wines that will engender heated discussions
between admirers and critics. —P.G.
83
Cave B 2008 Malbec (Columbia
Valley); $32. Light and herbal, this
blend of Malbec, Syrah and Merlot fails to evoke
much flavor or charm. It’s thin and simple. —P.G.
SYRAH
91
Davenport Cellars 2007 Syrah
(Columbia Valley); $20. Sourced
about equally from Kiona (on Red Mountain) and
Rosebud (in the Wahluke Slope), this deep, dark,
well-made Syrah offers exception value. The fruit
is plenty ripe, a mix of berries, raisins and plums;
there is a generous chocolate note, firm tannins,
and the grapes’ earthy, lightly funky side displayed
as well. It’s all beautifully balanced. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
90
Alexandria Nicole 2007 Syrah
(Columbia Valley); $25. If you are
looking for a right-on, pure and typical example
of Washington Syrah, this is a good place to start.
The fruit is deep and black, a mix of berries,
plums and cassis, threaded with tobacco, earth
and iron ore. Everything seems softened and
smoothed, making this especially accessible, in
part, most likely, due to this supremely balanced
vintage. —P.G.
90
L’Ecole No. 41 2008 Seven Hills
Vineyard Estate Syrah (Walla
6 4 | W I N E E N T H U S I A S T | D E C E M B E R 1 , 2 0 1 0
Walla); $37. Deep and fruity, this hits you with
a dense core of black cherry, strawberry preserves
and cooked raisins. Interesting details emerge
throughout as it runs across the palate: pepper
and herb, baking spices and light chocolate. Good
balance and length, but drink up soon. —P.G.
90
Milbrandt 2007 The Estates Syrah
(Wahluke Slope); $25. A surefire success
in all the Milbrandt vineyard holdings, Syrah
shows stuffing and spine here. It’s firm, herbal
and earthy, with a lightly funky aspect. But the
fruit is there in support—black cherries and
blackberries—and the hint of toast and mocha in
the finish provides exactly the right send-off into
the next sip. —P.G.
90
Stevens 2008 BlackTongue Syrah
(Yakima Valley); $30. BlackTongue
has some of the same umami-soaked character as
the nearby Boushey vineyard Syrahs, with perhaps
more earth, smoke, tar and licorice, and a
little less funk and composty aromas. A stylistic
note—this is a very dry Syrah, deep, compact,
layered with black fruit flavors, cassis and very
dry tannins. —P.G.
89
Corliss Estates 2005 Syrah (Columbia
Valley); $55. Though it lacks the
precision of a single-vineyard Syrah (a grape that
meticulously reflects individual terroir), this is
balanced, clean and unmistakably varietal. There
is a spicy, sharply herbal underpinning and tannins
that suggest some stems in the fermentation.
The high alcohol does not intrude, and the wine
is complete and full. —P.G.
89
L’Ecole No. 41 2007 Syrah (Columbia
Valley); $25. This is a relatively
light style of Washington Syrah, elegant and
nuanced, with an interesting mix of herbs and
barrel spices over tangy raspberry/blueberry fruit.
Medium length, it tails out into a soft, gentle finish,
with a touch of heat from the alcohol. —P.G.
89
Nefarious Cellars 2008 Rocky
Mother Vineyard Estate Syrah
(Columbia Valley); $42. This is Syrah from
the far northwest corner of the Columbia Valley, a
cool region, whose wines show an underlying
minerality. The berry flavors are subtle; this is a
mélange of leaf, herb, rock and acid. Still young,
the tannins are drying and the wine seems to be
entering a dumb phase. Give it plenty of breathing
time. —P.G.