BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

88
Starmont 2007 Merlot (Napa Valley);
$26. A dry, gentle Merlot, likeable
for its rich tannic structure and complex flavors.
Shows berry, cherry, currant, dark chocolate and
sandalwood flavors, with a clean, spicy finish.
Drink now with a nice grilled steak, brushed with
garlic butter and plenty of pepper. —S.H.
87
Albeno Munari 2007 Merlot
(Calaveras County); $22. Hard to
beat the delicious flavors in this mountain Merlot.
It explodes in the mouth with blackberry jam,
cherry liqueur, melted milk chocolate, licorice
and sweet oak flavors. Pretty good in the modern
style, with a minor quibble that there’s some
sharpness throughout. —S.H.
87
Huntington 2008 Merlot (California);
$14. Lots of fresh, ripe blackberry
and cherry fruit in this clean, vibrant Merlot. It’s
soft and dry, with enough tannins to give it a little
bite. Drink now with meats, roast chicken,
cheeses. —S.H.
87
Robert Mondavi 2007 Merlot
(Napa Valley); $23. Here’s a good,
sound Merlot that’s fancy enough to serve with
special fare. It’s dry and rich in tannins, with oakinspired
black cherry, currant and pepper flavors.
Easy to find, with 29,000 cases produced. The
alcohol measures 16%. —S.H.
87
Schug 2007 Merlot (Sonoma Valley);
$28. This is a light, elegant Merlot
for drinking now. It’s very dry, and has pleasant
berry, red currant, herb and cedar flavors. A
good restaurant wine that won’t overwhelm the
food. —S.H.
87
Still Waters 2006 Merlot (Paso
Robles); $22. This is a very dry, soft
Merlot. At the age of four years, it’s fully resolved
and ready to drink now. Shows polished cherry,
currant, spice and cedar flavors, finished with a
bite of acidity. —S.H.
86
Stave 28 2007 Raven Merlot
(Napa Valley); $29. Feels a bit sharp
and aggressive in the mouth, with acidity cutting
across the currant, licorice and cola flavors. The
wine also is very dry and fairly tannic. The
impression is of a lack of generosity, especially at
this price. —S.H.
85
Napa Station 2007 Merlot (Napa
Valley); $19. A little rough and ready
around the edges, but nice and dry, with firm
tannins framing black cherry, cola and oak flavors.
—S.H.
85
Q Sonoma 2008 Merlot (Sonoma
County); $17. A sound, everyday wine
with some special qualities. It’s dryish and superfruity
in cherries and raspberries, and even has
some salty, smoky notes of bacon. The alcohol is
refreshingly low. —S.H.
84
Arrow Creek 2009 Merlot (California);
$18. Here’s a sweetly simple Mer-
lot. It’s juicy and jammy in ripe cherries and
berries, with a spicy finish. Drink now with everyday
fare. —S.H.
84
St. Clement 2007 Merlot (Napa
Valley); $28. Simple and fruity, a
sharply acidic, dry wine with forward cherry, raspberry
and green mint flavors. Drink now. —S.H.
83
Mirassou 2008 Merlot (California);
$12. Minty sharp, like a peppermint
sour candy, with raspberry jam flavors. Although
the wine is nice and dry, it’s pretty simple. —S.H.
83
Rangeland 2007 Merlot (Paso
Robles); $29. With hard tannins and a
jagged mouthfeel, this Merlot tastes fairly simple
in cherry and cola flavors, accented with sweet
oak. Drink now. —S.H.
82
Longevity 2008 Merlot (Livermore
Valley); $23. Tough and leathery.
Shows briary blackberry and cherry fruit and oak
flavors, with a bitter, sharp finish. Okay for everyday
purposes. —S.H.
82
Sineann 2008 Sugarloaf Mountain
Vineyard Merlot (California); $30.
Soft and sweet in Porty cherry, chocolate and
raisin flavors, with a burn from high alcohol.
Drink now. —S.H.
PINOT NOIR
95
Etude 2007 Deer Camp Pinot Noir
(Carneros); $60. This has been one of
Etude’s best bottlings, and 2007 was a great year.
If you enjoy sheer, decadent deliciousness in your
Pinot Noirs, this is one for you. The palate first is
struck by the rich waves of cherry pie filling, raspberry
essence and sweet, vanilla-tinged, smoky
oak. Then it discovers the soft silkiness, and
finally the firm, fine tannins kick in, providing
structure. Just beguiling, and should develop in
the bottle over the next 5–6 years. —S.H.
95
Gainey 2008 Limited Selection
Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $48. An
absolutely lovely Pinot, the best in Gainey’s long
career. Dry, smooth and silky, it defines Pinot’s
more Burgundian side, with mushroomy notes
along with perfectly ripe cherries and raspberries,
accented with brilliant acidity. The oak treatment
is tasteful and blends in seamlessly, offering
a hint of toast. The wine treads an exciting line
between ripeness and earthiness, while keeping
alcohol to a refreshingly low 14.1%. This is a connoisseur’s
wine. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
95
MacRostie 2007 Wildcat Mountain
Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast); $40. MacRostie’s Pinots from this vineyard
on the edge of the Sonoma side of Carneros
always are big, ripe, powerful and ageable. This
’07 shows the fat, ripe character of the vintage,
offering luscious raspberry, cherry, cola, red currant
liqueur, bacon, anise, spice and sandalwood
flavors. But it’s balanced enough to change in
interesting ways over the next 5–7 years. Really a
glamorous wine for your best meals. Editors’
Choice. —S.H.
94
Etude 2007 Temblor Pinot Noir
(Carneros); $60. Shows the Etude signature
of extraordinary richness and great structure,
along with the paradox of early appeal
combined with ageability. Floods the mouth with
raspberry, cherry, orange zest, Dr. Pepper cola,
vanilla and sweet oak flavors that turn dry and
refined in the finish. This bottling continues to
be one of the best, most flamboyantly enjoyable
Carneros Pinot Noirs. —S.H.
94
Etude 2007 Heirloom Pinot Noir
(Carneros); $90. Made in the Heirloom
style, which is huge, extracted and potent.
The ’07 shows the preternatural ripeness of the
vintage, offering massive cherry and black raspberry
fruit, along with sizable tannins. The winemaker
has framed this power with considerable
oak. The result admittedly is seismic, but it is
another success for Heirloom, and is likely to age
for at least a dozen years. —S.H.
94
Rusack 2008 Rancho Santa Rosa
Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $45.
Rusack’s best 2008 Pinot comes from this great
vineyard that displays such fine Santa Rita Hills
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