BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

BUYING I GUIDE
92
Vina Robles 2007 Suendero (Paso
Robles); $49. A little soft in acidity, in
the way of Paso wines, but with just-in-time zest
and tannins that give the flavors some structure.
Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, with 14% Petit Verdot,
the wine is dry and rich, with blackberry, currant,
cola, dark chocolate, violet, anise and cedar
flavors. One of the more complex Bordeaux-style
wines from this area. Drink now. —S.H.
91
Frog’s Leap 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Rutherford); $75. Frog’s Leap
strove for elegance above power in this modulated,
ageworthy wine. Tasted against bigger,
riper Cabs, it’s almost lean, with herb-infused red
cherry, violet and mineral flavors, wrapped into
complex tannins. The alcohol is a refreshingly low
13.6%. This is a connoisseur’s wine, and it should
develop for 10–15 years in a proper cellar. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
91
Skyhawk Lane 2007 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Paso Robles); $48. An
interesting wine for its moderate alcohol and
extreme dryness. Leaner and more structured
than a plump Napa Cab, it shows juicy blackberry,
currant, mineral and oak flavors that are
streamlined and elegant. A bite of alcohol makes
this pretty wine balanced and clean through the
finish. —S.H.
91
St. Clement 2007 Oroppas Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $55.
Continues a string of successful bottlings of this
Cabernet. The flavors are strong but subtle, suggesting
blackberries and black currants, with
earthier notes of dark chocolate and roasted
almonds. Very good, but also pretty tannic. You’ll
want to cellar this for 5–6 years to let it mellow.
Cellar Selection. —S.H.
91
White Cottage Ranch 2007 Risa
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley);
$40. What a nice Cabernet this is. It’s so
dry and well-structured, tantalizing your palate
with hints of richness instead of swamping it with
fruit and oak. Shows summer-ripe, briary blackberry
and black currant flavors, with grounding
notes of dried herbs, violets, tobacco, licorice and
cedar, leading to a distinguished finish.
Now–2013. —S.H.
90
Bugay 2007 The Empress Cabernet
Sauvignon (Sonoma County);
$75. There’s a good wine in here, but it needs
some time to escape the cage of hard tannins and
primary fruit. Floods the mouth with blackberry
pie, crème de cassis and sweet, vanilla oak flavors
that are just itching for a good 5–7 years in the
cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
90
Falcone 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paso Robles); $30. A terrific Caber-
net made from a blend of various Paso Robles
vineyards. Just delicious, a young, softly appealing
wine brimming with blackberry, cherry, currant,
mocha and cedar flavors. Beautiful now, especially
with a grilled steak or lamb chop. —S.H.
90
Frog’s Leap 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Rutherford); $75. Frog’s Leap
strove for elegance above power in this modulated
wine. It’s delicate in the mouth, with complex
notes of herbs, cherry tart, cherry Lifesaver
candy and cedar wood. Turns a bit sharp in the
finish, with a cut of acidity that should help the
wine age for 6–8 years. —S.H.
90
Hewitt 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Rutherford); $85. Made from 100%
Cabernet, this wine is very extracted and jammy,
in the modern style of extreme ripeness and fruitforwardness.
Sweet oak, 70% of it new, adds layers
of cream, vanilla and buttered toast. Appeals
now for its juicy, New World style. —S.H.
90
Louis M. Martini 2006 Lot 1 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley);
$120. At the age of four years, this Cab strikes
you as very fruity and also sharp. It has jammy
cherry, blackberry, black currant and baker’s
chocolate flavors that taste like they have a squirt
of lime juice for tartness. The oak overlay is strong
in char and vanilla, but balanced. The overall
impression is of power and elegance, but immaturity.
Try holding until 2013, and could develop for
many years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
90
Sineann 2008 Sugarloaf Mountain
Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
(California); $42. Deeply flavored, offering a
flood of ripe blackberry and black cherry fruit,
liberally enhanced with sweet, smoky oak. The
tannins are rich and soft, and acidity is brisk.
Immature now, and needs time. Give it a good
five years and see what happens. Cellar Selection.
—S.H.
90
Starmont 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley); $27. Pretty
good price for a Cabernet this elegant and rich.
Starmont is a kind of second label to the excel-
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lent producer, Merryvale, and this ’07 shows a
fine pedigree, as well as the general quality of
the vintage. It’s dry and balanced, with complex
blackberry, currant and oak flavors. Drink
now–2013. —S.H.
90
Watkins Family 2006 Nuns Cliff
Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
(Sonoma Valley); $38. What’s so likeable
about this Cabernet is the dryness and the overall
balance, which is stylish and elegant. It keeps the
blackberry and black currant fruit in check with
earthier tones of tobacco and olives. —S.H.
89
Ellman Family 2007 Jemma (Napa
Valley); $79. Hard to appreciate this
pricey blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Malbec
right now, it’s so sharp and tannic and jammy.
The big question is whether or not it will age.
The signs are there. One of the winemakers,
Kian Tavakoli, worked at Opus One. The grapes
come from Beckstoffer, in Oakville. Based on
that, you might want to give it a good six years in
the cellar. —S.H.
89
Farrier 2007 Countenance
(Alexander Valley); $35. A lovely
Bordeaux blend, fruity and incredibly rich.
Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, it shows the Alexander
Valley’s soft tannins and herb-tinged flavors of
blackberries and black cherries, topped with
smoky sweet new oak. Easy to like now with a
charred steak. —S.H.
89
Louis M. Martini 2006 Monte
Rosso Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
(Sonoma Valley); $85. Young and
fruity, offering an explosion of jammy cherries,
blackberries and currants. Oak adds a framework
of wood tannins that join grapeskin tannins to
provide astringency and bite. Immature, and the
question is ageability. Hold until 2013, but
longterm prospects seem risky, given a certain
raisiny superripeness. —S.H.
89
Martin Estate 2007 Collector’s
Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
(Rutherford); $120. A good 100% Cabernet,
with complex, pleasant cherry, blackberry and oak
flavors. Quite tannic now, with a sandpapery
mouthfeel, and very full-bodied. Feels a little
ponderous, but could be going through an awkward
phase. Try again after 2013. —S.H.
89
Terlato 2007 Devils’ Peak(Napa
Valley); $48. This is a lush wine, rich in