BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

weight and density. Give it a few years in the cellar
to mellow, and it should develop for a decade
or more. —S.H.
93
Beaulieu Vineyard 2007 Georges
de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Rutherford); $115. Dark,
bold, potent and young are just a few words to
describe this Cabernet, which contains a splash of
Petit Verdot and Malbec. Shows concentrated
blackberry, black currant and violet flavors that
turn sweet and chocolaty on the finish, although
the wine itself is perfectly dry. Quite tannic,
which suggests ageability, although high alcohol
of 15.5% will be controversial in some circles.
Best after 2013, in a proper cellar. Cellar Selection.
—S.H.
93
Monticello 2007 Tietjen Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford);
$65. Deeply scented, a big, powerhouse Cabernet
grown on the Rutherford bench. It’s dense,
chewy and meaty, showing blackberry jam, blueberry,
chocolate and sweet smoky oak. The tannins
are thick and furry, as befits such a young,
ageable wine. Hold until 2013, and it should
develop through 2019. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
93
Rubicon Estate 2007 Rutherford;
$145. New oak stands out in toast and
caramelized wood sweetness on this Cab, overshining
to some degree the underlying blackberry,
cherry and black currant fruit. It’s quite a
fashionable, delectable young wine, and will
probably be consumed too early by many people
who buy it, but it’s really a cellar candidate. Made
with a few drops of Petit Verdot and Cabernet
Franc, it should develop for 12–15 years. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
92
6 North 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley); $52. This new brand is
sourced from various vineyards throughout the
valley. It’s very ripe and interesting, offering the
rich flavors and balance of the vintage. Gentle
now in blackberries, black currants, anise and
sweet cedar wood, and should develop over the
next 5–6 years. —S.H.
92
Bonterra 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mendocino-Lake); $16. A
wonderful red wine, full-bodied, dry and elegant.
It shows Cabernet character in the blackberries,
cherries and black currants, but that’s balanced
with an earthiness and minerality and even some
smoked meat notes that must come from a per-
centage of Syrah and Petite Sirah. Tasted in a
flight of much more expensive Cabs, this one
easily stood out. Drink now–2011. Editors’
Choice. —S.H.
92
Etude 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Oakville); $100. Here’s a Cabernet to
age for a while. It’s very dry and richly flavored in
classic varietal flavors of blackberries, black currants
and cedar, with finely ground, intense tannins.
But it has a youthful immaturity that simply
isn’t ready to appreciate now. Really needs time
for all the parts to mesh together. Give it until
2012, and it should develop bottle complexity for
another 5–6 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
92
Etude 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Rutherford); $100. This is a very nice
Cabernet that feels rich in the mouth, a wine that
will have everybody remarking on its smooth, velvety
texture. Taste-wise, it shows an olive tinge
to the red and black cherry fruit, with a beautiful
overlay of smoky oak. You can drink it now, with a
good decant, and it should develop in the bottle
over the next 6–9 years, if not longer. —S.H.
92
Lieff 2007 Auberge Road Cabernet
Sauvignon (Rutherford); $75.
Made in a lean, elegantly structured manner,
with modulated coffee, violet and mineral notes
to the sour cherry candy fruit. Quite tannic, too,
with a zesty bite of acidity. A bit austere and shut
down now, and should slowly develop bottle softness
and complexity after 2013. Cellar Selection.
—S.H.
92
Meander 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley); $65. A beautiful
100% Cabernet that comes from Rutherford and
St. Helena. It’s soft and dry and ultrarich, with
blackberry, cherry, licorice, cola, spice and smoky
new oak flavors. Seems best now and through
2014. —S.H.
92
Piña 2007 Firehouse Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford);
$85. Classic Rutherford Cab. Dry, dusty and
slightly herbal, with refined, jammy flavors of red
and black cherries, currants, mocha and cedar.
The alcohol is a little high, giving this 100%
Cabernet a warm, full-bodied feel. The tannins
suggest mid-term aging. 2013–2018. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
92
Provenance Vineyards 2007
Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford);
$40. This beautiful Bordeaux blend is based
mostly on Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s likeable now
for the soft, refined texture and luscious flavors of
tart cherry candy, accented with nearly half new
oak. Shows real balance and flair, from a winery
known for objective pricing. Now–2013. Editors’
Choice. —S.H.
92
Rutherford Grove 2007 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Rutherford); $45. Textbook
Rutherford Cab. It’s forward and lush now
in ripe black and red cherry pie and dusty spice
flavors, with oak adding caramel, smoke and buttered
toast notes. Feels opulent and fat and just
plain good. Should continue to evolve in the bottle
for years. —S.H.
92
Sawyer 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Rutherford); $48. A beautifully
accessible wine, polished, pretty and likeable now
for its gentle texture and silky tannins. The sweet
cherry and raspberry fruit is encircled with a coat
of fancy smoked oak. Made from 100% Cabernet,
the wine is balanced enough to gain bottle complexity
for a decade. —S.H.
92
Slaughterhouse Cellars 2007
Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford);
$50. There’s lots of new French oak on this
Cabernet, but the underlying wine is powerful
enough to take it. Shows rich, gentle tannins and
fine acidity framing complex, flavorful cherry,
blackberry and raspberry fruit. The near-perfect
balance suggests cellaring for a decade or longer,
although the wine is pretty enough to drink
now. —S.H.
92
Sullivan 2007 Estate Cabernet
Sauvignon (Rutherford); $55.
Here’s a powerful Cabernet Sauvignon, ripe and
opulent, offering summer blackberry, sour cherry
candy, currant, dried herb and rose petal aromas
and flavors. The addition of 21% Merlot brings a
candied softness, but it’s still pretty tannic, and
wants 4–5 years in the cellar. —S.H.
92
Tres Sabores 2007 Perspective
Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford);
$80. Young and oaky now, with toast, vanilla and
woodspice aromas and flavors that tend to dominate
the underlying cherry, cranberry and raspberry
fruit. Feels fat and sweetly opulent, with
smooth, fine tannins. Should develop gradually
over the next decade. —S.H.
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