BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

86
Heritage 2008 Blanc de Blancs
(Bekaa Valley); $15. Bright and
lemony on the nose with freshly cut grass and a
hint of melon rind, this dry white wine is a blend
of Chardonnay, Ugni Blanc and Muscat. It’s not
very complex, but fresh apples and pear flavors
and a nice, luscious mouthfeel makes this
Lebanese wine a quaffable choice. Imported by
Vidalco International, LLC. —A.I.
81
Le Fleuron NV White (Bekaa Valley);
$12. This dry, medium-bodied
blend of Ugni Blanc and Clairette from Lebanon
is grassy and feline on the nose with lots of tinned
asparagus and pea flavors on the palate. Apple
and pear notes linger in the background, but
overall, the vegetal nature of this wine dominates.
Imported by Vidalco International, LLC. —A.I.
ROMANIA
RED WINES
87
Byzantium 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Dealu Mare); $10. At just
$10, Byzantium’s Cabernet Sauvignon offers
great bang for the buck. Pleasant aromas of ripe,
red plums, espresso and toasted oak complement
the lush black cherries and earth notes on the
palate. Balanced acidity and firm but pleasant
tannins extend through the coffee and black
cherry finish. Imported by Danex International.
Best Buy. —A.I.
87
Prahova Valley 2008 Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon (Dealurile
Munteniei); $10. Elegant and feminine on the
nose with lovely cassis, toasted oak and violet
notes, this medium-bodied Cab is another excellent
bargain from Romania’s Prahova Valley.
Sturdy tannins and a pleasant astringency add
structure to the luscious, ripe red fruits on the
palate. It’s high in acid, but well balanced, ending
in a puckery, sour cherry finish. Imported by
Terra Firma USA Inc. Best Buy. —A.I.
87
Prahova Valley 2008 Reserve
Pinot Noir (Dealu Mare); $10. This
bargain Pinot Noir is a pleasant surprise from
Romania’s Prahova Valley with pretty aromas of
black cherries, bark and menthol. Concentrated
plum and cherry flavors are countered by darker
notes of coffee grinds, earth and bramble.
Medium bodied with balanced tannins and acidity,
it’s a straightforward, everyday kind of wine,
but a promising start for Romania’s wine industry.
Imported by Terra Firma USA Inc. Best
Buy. —A.I.
86
Terra Romana 2007 Cuvée Charlotte
(Dealu Mare); $18. The nose
on this Romanian blend of Merlot, Cabernet
Sauvignon and Feteasca Neagra is dark and
smoky with charred oak, coffee and tobacco
melding into an herbaceous, woody backdrop.
Juicy black plums and cherries are offset by
strong grape and wood tannins and notes of cigar
smoke and black pepper on the palate. It’s fine
now, but a year or two in the cellar might smooth
out some jagged edges. Imported by Terra Firma
USA Inc. —A.I.
86
Werewolf 2008 Pinot Noir (Romania);
$9. While there’s lots of candied
black cherry and coffee grinds on the nose, on
the palate, this medium-bodied Romanian Pinot
Noir is rustic and herbaceous with balanced sour
cherry fruit and notes of grass and earth. With
such mild tannins, it lacks impact on the midpalate,
but bright acidity carries it through a fairly
long finish. Imported by Tri-Vin Imports. Best
Buy. —A.I.
85
Byzantium 2007 Rosso di Valachia
(Dealu Mare); $10. Although the
nose on this medium-bodied Romanian blend of
Pinot Noir, Merlot and Feteasca Neagra is pretty
with ripe, black plums, vanilla and a hint of
cashew nuts, it takes some airing out for the
charred oak flavors to settle, allowing red plum
and coffee grind notes to appear on the palate.
Gripping tannins and high acidity give this wine a
puckery astringency, but it’s not bad for the bargain
price. Imported by Danex International.
Best Buy. —A.I.
85
Prahova Valley 2008 Reserve Merlot
(Dealurile Munteniei); $10. This
medium-bodied Romanian Merlot is herbaceous
and woody on the nose with notes of vanilla,
toasted oak and black cherries. The fleshy red
plum flavors compete awkwardly with a green,
stalky profile and strong tannins, but finishes on a
pleasant sour cherry note. Imported by Terra
Firma USA Inc. Best Buy. —A.I.
84
Chevalier de Dyonis 2008 Pinot
Noir (Dealu Mare); $8. The promi-
nent barnyard scent in this bargain bin Pinot Noir
takes a while to blow off after pouring, but is
gradually replaced by aromas of black cherries,
leather and wet, autumn leaves. There’s subdued
black fruit on the palate, but plenty of earthy,
stalky and vegetal notes as well. Low in tannins
and body, the finish ends on a rather sour note.
Imported by Terra Firma USA Inc. Best
Buy. —A.I.
83
Dreamer 2007 Selected Harvest
Pinot Noir (Dealurile Munteniei);
$10. Dense and syrupy like black cherry juice,
this semisweet Romanian Pinot Noir is not a wine
with much finesse, but if you’re looking for a sugary
red wine low in tannins and acidity, this is
right up your alley. Imported by Terra Firma
USA Inc. —A.I.
ROSÉ WINE
82
Dreamer 2009 Late Harvest Merlot
Rosé (Dealurile Munteniei); $9.
Rose pink with a perfumed, confected aroma of
strawberry jam and Love’s Baby Soft perfume,
this semisweet late harvest Merlot rosé from
Romania is sugary and syrupy. Imported by Terra
Firma USA Inc. —A.I.
WHITE WINES
86
Verus Vineyards 2009 Riesling
(S v
tajerska); $20. This Riesling from
Slovenia is a bit perfumed on the nose with an
abundance of white blossoms, baby powder and
pink grapefruit aromas, but there’s a pleasant, citrusy
sweetness and acidity throughout. Medium
bodied, it finishes quite dry with a gentle white
tea astringency. Imported by Tasty Wine Company.
—A.I.
86
Verus Vineyards 2009 Sauvignon
Blanc (S v
tajerska); $20. Fragrant of
freshly cut grass, honeydew melon and orange
blossoms, this dry, medium-bodied Sauvignon
Blanc from Slovenia has pleasant grapefruit and
lemon flavors and a racy, zippy acidity that tingles
on the tongue. It’s a simple but refreshing wine
with a lime zest and smoke finish. Imported by
Tasty Wine Company. —A.I.
84
Terra Romana 2009 Chardonnay
(Dealu Mare); $10. Warm, toasty aromas
with notes of coconut and dill, along with
some honey and applesauce are pleasant on this
dry Chardonnay from Romania. Unfortunately,
the raw, aggressive acidity makes this wine lack
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