BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

wine finishes with high, vibrant acidity. Imported
by Circo Vino. —R.V.
92
Gritsch Mauritiushof 2009 1000
Eimerberg Riesling Smaragd
(Wachau); $40. Apricot aromas are followed
by ripe fruit flavors, giving a rich texture, yet
retaining a very clean, fresh character. Opulence
with steel. Imported by Winemonger. —R.V.
92
Markus Huber 2009 Engelreich
Riesling (Traisental); $NA. Steely.
Cool fruit joins an immense series of flavors—crisp
citrus, lime zest, pink grapefruit in the tightest texture.
For aging over 3–4 years, probably longer.
Imported by Circo Vino. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
91
Zull 2009 Innere Bergen Riesling
(Niederösterreich); $22. Beautifully
light, a steely core wrapped in apricot, citrus and
the brightest, perfumed acidity. A delicious wine,
packed with fresh, pure fruit character. Imported
by Magellan Wine Imports. —R.V.
90
Josef Ehmoser 2009 Vom Gelben
Löss Riesling (Wagram-
Donauland); $21. This is a full-bodied wine
with a citrus streak of acidity to go with peach
and apricot flavors. It is rich, just hinting at minerality,
generous in mouthfeel. Imported by Magellan
Wine Imports. —R.V.
88
Norbert Bauer 2009 Diermannsee
Riesling (Niederösterreich); $18. A
crisp style of Riesling, with freshly perfumed
green fruits and a steely edge. Flavors of white
currants and green plums finish with vivid acidity.
Imported by Epicur Wines. —R.V.
87
Gritsch Mauritiushof 2009 1000
Eimerberg Riesling Federspiel
(Wachau); $29. Dry, classic perfumed fruit,
bright and crisp. The wine is touched with a steely
edge, very mineral with delicious citrus and green
apple to finish. Imported by Winemonger. —R.V.
CHARDONNAY
94
Kollwentz 2008 Gloria Chardonnay
(Burgenland); $80. Tight, mineral,
taut wine, showing citrus, lime zest and pear
skin flavors. Stone fruits emerge in an elegant
texture. This is structured, powerful, offering
serious aging potential. Imported by Vos Selections.
—R.V.
92
Kollwentz 2008 Tatschler
Chardonnay (Burgenland); $NA.
From slate and limestone vineyards, this is an
intense wine, full of tropical fruit flavors, spice,
toast and hints of ginger. The wine rolls richly
around the mouth, a gorgeous, opulent texture.
Imported by Vos Selections. —R.V.
92
Zull 2006 Riesling Beerenauslese
(Niederösterreich); $40/375 ml.
Very rich in texture while also balanced, this is a
wine that shows extreme concentration—honey,
yellow fruits and final sugar all wrapped in
lively acidity. Imported by Magellan Wine
Imports. —R.V.
92
Zull 2008 Riesling Eiswein
(Niederösterreich); $40/375 ml.
Intense acidity, with the sweetness held in check
by a bright, crisp character. Rich honey is balanced
by an exquisite freshness, lightly perfumed,
so clean and clear in final taste. Imported by
Magellan Wine Imports. —R.V.
91
Kollwentz 2009 Leithagebirge
Chardonnay (Burgenland); $30.
Rich and creamy, yellow fruit ripeness over lime
zest acidity. This is powerful wine, although not
heavy, its acidity bursting out through the complex
flavors. Imported by Vos Selections. —R.V.
89
Judith Beck 2008 Pannobile Weiss
Chardonnay (Burgenland); $NA.
Certainly ripe, but with such elegant fruit—
quince, peach, mango, laced with grapefruit
freshness. The light touches of toast come from
barrel fermentation. —R.V.
SAUVIGNON BLANC
93
Neumeister 2008 Moarfeitl Sauvignon
Blanc (Südoststeiermark);
$48. Christoph Neumeister’s top wine, this is a
classic among Sauvignon Blancs. It is tightly
structured, very herbal, with greengage and
gooseberry flavors over asparagus and spice. It
can age well, needing 3–4 years to reach its peak.
Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.
Cellar Selection. —R.V.
92
Neumeister 2009 Klausen Sauvignon
Blanc (Südoststeiermark);
$NA. From a steep vineyard above the village of
Straden, this has wonderful tropical fruit aromas,
the fruit beautifully ripe. Ripe, smooth, rounded,
the acidity giving just the right final burst of
herbal freshness. Imported by Frederick Wildman
& Sons, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
90
Neumeister 2009 Sauvignon Blanc
Klassik (Südoststeiermark); $26.
Fresh and creamy wine, green herbs over apricots
and pears. The wine is textured, with a good
mineral, sea salt character, the fruit giving a rich
final mouthfeel. Imported by Frederick Wildman
& Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
89
Kollwentz 2009 Steinmühle Sauvignon
Blanc (Burgenland); $50. On
the tropical side of Sauvignon Blanc, this is
packed with mango and apricot flavors, direct and
fruity. There is just a final touch of green herbs.
Imported by Vos Selections. —R.V.
OTHER DRY WHITES
91
Neumeister 2008 Steintal Roter
Traminer (Südoststeiermark); $NA.
Perfumed and restrained, with aromas of rose oil.
The wine is balanced, elegant, restrained, acidity
pairing with flavors of star fruit, peach and just a
touch of spicy sweetness. Imported by Frederick
Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
90
Norbert Bauer 2009 Alter Weingarten
Mischsatz (Niederösterreich);
$NA. This vineyard was planted with a
whole range of varieties, with a predominance of
Pinot Blanc. The result is a smooth, creamy, ripe,
plum-textured wine, pierced by grapefruit. It is
full bodied, complex. Imported by Epicur Wines.
Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
90
Neumeister 2009 Grauburgunder
Klassik (Südoststeiermark); $23.
Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) has become popular
in Styria because of its ability to ripen easily.
The wine has a touch of spice to go with a complex
blend of ripe peach, white berries and final
intense, almost cool acidity. Imported by Frederick
Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
89
Josef Ehmoser 2009 Weissburgunder
(Wagram-Donauland); $19.
With a 10% barrel fermentation, this is a smooth
Pinot Blanc. It has a luscious creamy texture, with
pear, quince and green plum flavors. The ripe
richness is well balanced with a fine layer of acidity.
Imported by Magellan Wine Imports. —R.V.
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