BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

84
Marco Porello 2007 Torretta
(Roero); $15. This Roero from the
Canale area of Piedmont exhibits lactic notes of
creamy spice and cinnamon yogurt over ripe
berry and earthy tones. The mouthfeel is slightly
bitter and sharp. Imported by Martin Scott
Wines. —M.L.
84
Pace 2006 Riserva (Roero); $NA.
Meaty tones of beef broth and smoked
bacon are folded within darker tones of black
cherry and currant. You’ll also get a touch of wet
earth and black truffle. Thanks to its bigger concentration,
the wine is slight chewy and succulent
in addition to being firmly tannic. —M.L.
OTHER NEBBIOLO WINES
90
Cascina Corte di Barosi Alessandro
2007 Nebbiolo (Langhe); $25.
Made with organically grown grapes, this silky
and elegant expression of Nebbiolo offers a
youthful interpretation of the grape with bright
berry notes of cassis, currant and wild raspberry
backed by austere aromas of tar, licorice and
leather. Imported by Casa Bruno. —M.L.
90
Giacomo Vico 2008 Nebbiolo
(Langhe); $21. Presented in extremely
elegant packaging, this is a beautiful expression of
Nebbiolo from Piedmont. Not as austere as
Barolo or Barbaresco, this wine does offer familiar
aromas of black currant, pressed violets, tar,
licorice and leather. The wine is smooth, silky and
structured on the close. Imported by Vino
LeFebvre. —M.L.
90
Vietti 2006 Perbacco Nebbiolo
(Langhe); $25. Perbacco is a beautiful
expression of Nebbiolo with soft, linear harmony
and well defined aromas of black fruit, cola, spice
and leather. It tastes compact and firm on the
tongue and offers a long, delicious finish.
Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L.
88
Anna Maria Abbona 2006 Nebbiolo
(Langhe); $25. Here’s an informal
expression of Nebbiolo from young vines with
tight aromas of pressed blue flowers, licorice,
dried currants and cherry cola. The wine shows
both a healthy acidic and tannic component and
could pair with braised pork or lamb. Imported
by Oliver McCrum Wines. —M.L.
88
Pioiero 2007 Nebbiolo d’Alba;
$29. Here’s an easy-drinking expression
of Nebbiolo that sees 12 months of wood aging
in large oak casks for extra spice and tobacco on
the finish. Otherwise, the freshness of the fruit is
what you taste here backed by bright acidity
and firm tannins. Imported by Enotec Imports,
Inc. —M.L.
88
Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi
di Gresy 2008 Nebbiolo d’Alba;
$21. This light and luminous Nebbiolo d’Alba
offers fine aromas of cranberry, raspberry, white
chocolate and root beer. Instead of huge complexity,
you get good structure, freshness and a
wine with a natural ability to pair with most easy
meat dishes. Imported by Dalla Terra Winery
Direct. —M.L.
87
Cascina Bruciata 2007 Usignolo
Nebbiolo (Langhe); $20. Aged only
in stainless steel, Usignolo is a no-fuss expression
of Nebbiolo that presents direct and friendly aromas
of small berry fruit and blue flowers without
the aged complexity of Barbaresco or Barolo.
This would drink well with pizza or informal pasta
dishes. Imported by Villa Italia. —M.L.
87
Giacosa Fratelli 2007 Nebbiolo
d’Alba; $16. This bright and fruit-for-
ward Nebbiolo d’Alba offers clean notes of white
cherry, raspberry and cassis. There’s a subtle layer
of tar, spice and licorice and the wine is fresh and
well structured overall. Imported by Bedford
International. —M.L.
87
Produttori del Barbaresco 2008
Nebbiolo (Langhe); $20. Clean, sim-
ple and correct, this wine offers an excellent window
into the Nebbiolo grape. From a young
vintage and free of the aromas and textures associated
with long aging in wood, this bright wine
focuses on quality of fruit and fresh berry aromas
backed by crispness and good structure.
Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.
BARBERA
91
Tenuta Olim Bauda 2007 Barbera
d’Asti Superiore Nizza; $39. Here’s
a big, bold interpretation of Barbera that sees 18
months of careful aging in oak to achieve aromas
of black spice, cassis syrup, cola, mesquite and
cedar. You can taste the youthfulness and the
freshness of the fruit in the palate, and the wine
ends with persistency and a silky texture.
Imported by US Wine Imports. —M.L.
90
Cigliuti 2007 Campass (Barbera
d’Alba); $NA. This is a gorgeous
expression of Barbera with deeply sophisticated
notes of exotic spice, smoke and toast that follow
bursting notes of ripe fruit and blackberry. At first
the wine feels soft and velvety on the palate and
then that telltale acidity kicks in at the end.
Imported by David Vincent Selection. —M.L.
90
Coppo 2004 Riserva della Famiglia
(Barbera d’Asti Superiore Nizza);
$163. This beautiful Riserva della Famiglia
offers immense sophistication and density with
loads of spice, dark fruit and oak-related aromas.
It is unlike any other Barbera you will taste
thanks to the depth of its complexity and its overall
intensity. Imported by Winebow. —M.L.
90
Massimiliano Vivalda 2004 Amistà
(Barbera d’Asti Superiore); $30.
This Superiore’s winning card is intensity and
you’ll feel it in its aromas of cherry, blackberry
and spice as well as in the ripeness of the fruit
here. In fact, those mature berry flavors provide a
nice contrast to the wine’s bright acidity.
Imported by Testa Wines Of The World. —M.L.
89
Bricco Maiolica 2007 Vigna Vigia
(Barbera d’Alba); $35. An immediate
and vertical delivery of cherry cola, spice and
blackberry aromas makes this a very likeable
Barbera d’Alba on first impact. Those good
vibes continue to the mouth where the
wine is dense, fresh and crisp. Imported by Zig
Zagando. —M.L.
89
Cigliuti 2007 Serraboella (Barbera
d’Alba); $32. Black notes of spice,
plum and ripe prune emerge from the nose of
this concentrated and rich expression of Barbera
from Alba. The Serraboella interpretation puts a
lot of emphasis on the freshness and overall quality
of the fruit. Imported by Indigenous Selections.
—M.L.
89
Dacapo 2006 Vigna Dacapo (Barbera
d’Asti Superiore Nizza); $30.
This bright and luscious Barbera offers a full
range of aromas that span from blueberry to elegant
smoke and exotic spice. The wine ends with
a fresh, crisp finish but there’s also good density
and fullness here on the close. Imported by Zig
Zagando. —M.L.
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