BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

chestnuts and sage. Imported by Scoperta
Importing Co. Inc. —M.L.
89
Parusso 2006 Bussia (Barolo);
$100. This expression of Barolo from
the Bussia cru opens with fleshy pulp, rich concentration
and very intense aromas of cola,
cherry, hummus, licorice and grated ginger.
There’s a chunky, vinous quality and although the
wine lacks the finesse of the vintage, it will most
certainly evolve nicely over the years. Imported
by Montecastelli Selections. —M.L.
89
Piazzo Armando 2004 Sotto
Castello di Novello Riserva
(Barolo); $50. Here’s a Riserva Barolo from the
excellent 2004 vintage with elegant and traditional
characteristics and evolved aromas of
smoked meat, pressed fruit, chopped spice and
moist earth. The wine seems older than it is and
ends with meaty flavors of cured beef and honey
roasted ham. Imported by Angelini Wine. —M.L.
89
Prunotto 2006 Bussia (Barolo);
$100. Prunotto’s Barolo from the Bussia
cru delivers ripe and jammy tones of strawberry
preserves and blackberry pie that sit heavy over
Nebbiolo’s characteristically ethereal aromas.
This wine will appeal to those who enjoy a bigger,
bolder style of Barolo that finishes with rich, succulent
fruit. Imported by Winebow. —M.L.
89
Rocca Felice 2005 (Barolo); $19.
Here is a tight and polished Barolo with a
touch of ripe fruit surrounded by leather, black
pepper, cola, pressed violets and tar. The wine
reflects the characteristics of both the Langhe
and the Nebbiolo grape variety: it’s elegant, structured
and needs some cellar aging. Imported by
Total Wine & More. —M.L.
89
Silvano Bolmida 2006 Vigne dei
Fantini (Barolo); $NA. Barolo Vigne
dei Fantini presents an opening act of cherry,
wild berries, cinnamon, nutmeg, hummus, cola
and licorice. Act two consists of smoked ham,
dried beef and a hint of natural rubber. The wine
is rich, firm and powerful on the close. Imported
by Morgan Import LLC. —M.L.
89
Simone Scaletta 2006 Chirlet
(Barolo); $NA. There’s a slightly milky
note of caramel yogurt or milk chocolate that
gives this wine a warm, creamy feel. On the nose,
you’ll recognize oak-driven tones of cinnamon
and toasted almond with loads of plump cherry
and blackberry to follow. —M.L.
89
Vinchio-Vaglio Serra 2004 Cantina
Tre Serre (Barolo); $38. Here’s a
straightforward but elegant expression of Nebbiolo
that ages two years in oak to secure aromas of
spice, cola, root beer and leather behind fruity
tones of dried blueberries and currants. Pair this
wine with lamb chops or pork roll marinated in
fresh garden herbs. Imported by Bon Vivant
Imports. —M.L.
88
Bel Colle 2006 (Barolo); $53. This
base Barolo from Bel Colle opens with
slightly muddled aromas of cured ham, ripe fruit
and exotic spice. It scored the same as this estate’s
2007 Barbaresco Roncaglie although the finish is
perhaps more elegant and refined on this wine.
Imported by Aventine Hill LLC. —M.L.
88
Cantine Gemma 2006 Colarej
(Barolo); $NA. This wine shows a
touch of age or flatness and its ruby color also
shows some mild browning. The wine will hold a
few more years but the fruit tones present now
won’t last forever. You’ll get aromas of wild
berries and red apple. —M.L.
88
Cascina del Monastero 2006
(Barolo); $NA. Cascina del Monas-
tero’s base Barolo shows simple fruit tones and
offers an easy, straight shooter approach overall.
You’ll get aromas of wild berry, cola and spice and
the wine is firm and compact on the close. In all,
it comes off as an informal interpretation of one
of the world’s greatest wines. Imported by
Metropolis Wine Merchants, Inc. —M.L.
88
Germano Angelo 2006 Vigna Rué
(Barolo); $NA. The 2005 vintage of
this vineyard designate Nebbiolo scored an outstanding
94 points, but this edition of Barolo
Vigna Rué doesn’t quite live up to its predecessor.
There are some sharper notes of red apple,
carrot and raw spice here, and although the wine
is rich and chewy in the mouth, it ends with
gritty but firm tannins. Imported by K&L Wine
Merchants. —M.L.
88
Mario Gagliasso 2006 Torriglione
(Barolo); $NA. The overt ripeness of
the fruit here presents a slight obstacle at first
sniff. Once that is overcome, the wine offers a
free range of blackberry, cassis, tar, leather and
tobacco-like aromas. But, in the mouth you’ll
taste the jamminess and maturity of the fruit. It’s
a smooth, soft wine with a long strawberry fade.
Imported by Acid Inc Selections. —M.L.
88
San Biagio 2006 Sorano (Barolo);
$75. Earthy tones of white truffle and
moist tobacco open the nose of this Barolo from
the Sorano cru. There are some ripe fruit aromas
of plum and prune as well and the wine fades
slowly with a long, dusty finish. Imported by
Enoteca Diana. —M.L.
87
Virna Borgogno 2006 Preda Sarmassa
(Barolo); $NA. Slightly quirky
but wholly acceptable aromas of animal or natural
rubber make a fleeting first impression. The wine
then relaxes and delivers pleasing aromas of wild
berry, spice and forest floor. The jury’s out on how
long the wine will age, but five years is a safe bet.
Imported by Ionia Atlantic. —M.L.
86
Gigi Rosso 2006 Arione (Barolo);
$NA. Barolo Arione is a mature expression
of Barolo with strawberry and blackberry
preserves backed by volatile aromas of green
apple and old spice. The wine feels rich and thick
in the mouth with a thick, chewy finish. —M.L.
85
Borgogno F.lli Serio e Battista
2004 Cannubi Riserva (Barolo);
$NA. There’s a milky, lactic aspect to this wine
that takes a few seconds to absorb. Once you do,
the nose is greeted by cherry and black spice. The
mouthfeel is determined and sharp. —M.L.
85
Camerano 2006 Cannubi San
Lorenzo (Barolo); $75. There’s a pungent
or slightly volatile note of fresh cedar or red
apple that dominates this wine and leaves little
room for the wine’s natural complexity to show.
This Barolo is also less active in the mouth and
tastes older than it really is. Imported by Singular
Selections. —M.L.
85
Monti 2006 Bussia (Barolo); $NA.
Monti’s Bussia Barolo, from the Monforte
d’Alba subzone, opens with an aged, browning
color and aromas of apples, wild berries and
citrus. The wine shows a lean, thin quality in the
mouth. —M.L.
BARBARESCO
95
Moccagatta 2007 Basarin (Barbaresco);
$NA. Moccagatta’s expres-
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