BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

acidity. It is developing richness and weight,
although not likely to age over many years,
Imported by Laurent-Perrier U.S. —R.V.
92
Moët & Chandon 2003 Grand Vintage
Brut (Champagne); $NA. With
its high percentage of Champagne’s third grape,
Pinot Meunier, as a result of the growing conditions
of 2003, this is a great wine that is developing
fast. It has more toast, less fruit, although its
richness and weight are finely in balance with a
yeasty cookie dough character. Imported by Moët
Hennessy USA. —R.V.
92
Nicolas Feuillatte 2003 Cuvée 225
Brut (Champagne); $90. A wood-fermented
wine (in 225 litre barrels), this is naturally
a rich Champagne. With the added ripeness of
2003, this is big-hearted, glowing with yellow
fruits, the lightest touch of wood and a generous,
full and balanced aftertaste. Imported by Ste.
Michelle Wine Estates. —R.V.
91
J. Dumangin Fils 2002 Vintage Premier
Cru Brut (Champagne); $72.
From a great year for vintage Champagne, this is
a fine wine, bringing out minerality, green stone
fruits and mouthwatering acidity. It is a wine for
aging, so give this impressive Champagne 3–4
years. Imported by Palateur Imports. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
91
Louis Roederer 2004 Blanc de
Blancs Brut (Champagne); $69.
Somehow this pure Chardonnay wine suffers
from the Roederer preference for a higher
dosage. With the Blanc de Blancs style, more
minerality, something altogether more taut,
would be better. That said, there is plenty to
enjoy in this rich, full-bodied wine, with apricot as
well as citrus flavors. Imported by Maisons Marques
& Domaines USA. —R.V.
91
Mailly Grand Cru 2005 L’Intemporelle
Brut (Champagne); $80.
Literally timeless, L’Intemporelle is an elegant,
almost discreet style. It downplays the rich fruit
to present a stylish wine, with citrus highlights
over ripe yellow fruit. This 2005 is still young;
age for 3–4 years. Imported by Total Wine &
More. —R.V.
91
Nicolas Feuillatte 2000 Cuvée Spéciale
Millésimé Brut (Champagne);
$75. A soft product of a soft vintage, offering
rich fruit as well as a crisp texture. The balance is
just right: green apples and lime to go with yeast
and acidity that lies neatly under everything. Age
this excellent wine for 2–3 years. Imported by
Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —R.V.
91
Perrier Jouët 2000 Fleur de Champagne
Blanc de Blancs Brut
(Champagne); $399. A nutty aroma follows
through to the mature palate of this distinguished
Blanc de Blancs. It has a good element of acidity,
toast and spice and an intense pear and mineral
aftertaste. Imported by Pernod Ricard. —R.V.
91
Thienot 2002 Cuvée Garance
Blanc de Rouges (Champagne);
$150. This is 100% Pinot Noir, which gives richness
to the wine. It is generous, with red apple
and pear flavors, still very fresh. An attractive
final bite says that it will age. Imported by Dourthe
USA. —R.V.
90
Drappier 2000 Grande Sendrée
Brut (Champagne); $NA. A beautiful
ripe, soft and fruity wine. The acidity is sweet,
crisp pears and apricots giving a rich character.
This is a vintage that is for drinking, not aging.
Imported by A. Hardy USA. —R.V.
90
Duval-Leroy 2004 Clos des Bouveries
Brut (Champagne); $65. Sweet,
toasty wine, very ripe, full of yellow fruits, touched
with almonds and bright white currants. The texture
is rich, concentrated, a wine that could well
age as it knits its rich fruit and acidity together.
Imported by Duval-Leroy Imports. —R.V.
90
Mailly Grand Cru 2004 Millésime
Brut (Champagne); $57. Impressive,
but so young, this is a Pinot Noir-dominated vintage,
the richness as yet a mere hint in the welter
of acidity and fruit. Already, though, this is
shaping up to be a structured, tight wine, with
great final balance. Imported by Total Wine &
More. —R.V.
89
Canard-Duchêne 2004 Brut Millesimé
(Champagne); $60. A lightly
fresh-faced wine, with apple and grapefruit flavors
balanced with a soft texture. It is easy,
attractive, ready to drink. Imported by Dourthe
USA. —R.V.
87
Nicolas Feuillatte 2004 Chardonnay
Blanc de Blancs Brut (Cham-
pagne); $46. With a sweet dosage, this is soft
Blanc de Blancs. Pears, hints of apricots go with
some crisp acidity. It still tastes young and needs
time to integrate, but will always be on the sweet
side of Brut. Imported by Ste. Michelle Wine
Estates. —R.V.
VINTAGE ROSÉ
97
Moët & Chandon 1990 Dom
Pérignon Oenothèque Rosé Brut
(Champagne); $NA. This 20-year-old Champagne,
just released by Moët, is beautiful, ripe,
toasty, the fruit translated into almonds, French
toast and searing, intense mature acidity. Disgorged
in 2007, it is just now at its peak.
Imported by Moët Hennessy USA. —R.V.
95
Laurent-Perrier 1998 Grand Siècle
Alexandra Brut Rosé (Champagne);
$390. A wonderful wine that has preserved
its freshness while welcoming elements of
toasty maturity. It is crisp, definitely on the dry
side, with red currants, bright wild strawberries
over the purest acidity. It’s sure to age over many
years, but, if you must, can be drunk now.
Imported by Laurent-Perrier U.S. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
94
Louis Roederer 2004 Rosé Brut
(Champagne); $67. A beautiful
orange pink-colored wine. Young and fresh, it has
great depth of raspberry and red fruit flavors as
well as a delicious summer fruit brightness and
liveliness. A beautiful Champagne, that will repay
some bottle aging. Imported by Maisons Marques
& Domaines USA. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
94
Louis Roederer 2005 Rosé Brut
(Champagne); $67. This is a crisp,
high-wire-walking wine, just so poised. Its youthful
red fruits, laced with citrus, taste so fresh, with
a strawberry bite. At this stage, it is intensely
enjoyable as young Champagne, but it does need
to age for several years. Imported by Maisons
Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V.
94
Moët & Chandon 2000 Dom
Pérignon Rosé Brut (Champagne);
$NA. A beautifully balanced wine, with bitter
cherries in a core of dry toast. It is already
mature, its freshness transformed into a rich
texture. Like many rosé Champagnes, this is
made for food. Imported by Moët Hennessy
USA. —R.V.
W i n e M a g . c o m | 1 3