murakami, haruki - Norwegian wood

murakami, haruki - Norwegian wood murakami, haruki - Norwegian wood

09.01.2013 Views

still taste my morning coffee. By the time the number of curves began to decrease to the point where I felt some relief, the bus plunged into a chilling cedar forest. The trees might have been old growth the way they towered over the road, blocking out the sun and covering everything in gloomy shadows. The breeze flowing into the bus's open windows turned suddenly cold, its dampness sharp against the skin. The valley road hugged the river bank, continuing so long through the trees it began to seem as if the whole world had been buried for ever in cedar forest - at which point the forest ended, and we came to an open basin surrounded by mountain peaks. Broad, green farmland spread out in all directions, and the river by the road looked bright and clear. A single thread of white smoke rose in the distance. Some houses had laundry drying in the sun, and dogs were howling. Each farmhouse had firewood out front piled up to the eaves, usually with a cat resting somewhere on the pile. The road was lined with such houses for a time, but I saw not a single person. The scenery repeated this pattern any number of times. The bus would enter cedar forest, come out to a village, then go back into forest. It would stop at a village to let people off, but no one ever got on. Forty minutes after leaving the city, the bus reached a mountain pass with a wide-open view. The driver stopped the bus and announced that we would be waiting there for five or six minutes: people could step down from the bus if they wished. There were only four passengers left now, including me. We all got out and stretched or smoked and looked down at the panorama of Kyoto far below. The driver went off to one side for a pee. A suntanned man in his early fifties who had boarded the bus with a big, rope-tied cardboard carton asked me if I was going out to hike in the mountains. I said yes to keep things simple. Eventually another bus came climbing up from the other side of the pass and stopped next to ours. The driver got out, had a short talk with our driver, and the two men climbed back into their buses. The four of us returned to our seats, and the buses pulled out in opposite 110

directions. It was not immediately clear to me why our bus had had to wait for the other one, but a short way down the other side of the mountain the road narrowed suddenly. Two big buses could never have passed each other on the road, and in fact passing ordinary cars coming in the other direction required a good deal of manoeuvring, with one or the other vehicle having to back up and squeeze into the overhang of a curve. The villages along the road were far smaller now, and the level areas under cultivation even narrower. The mountain was steeper, its walls pressed closer to the bus windows. They seemed to have just as many dogs as the other places, though, and the arrival of the bus would set off a howling competition. At the stop where I got off, there was nothing - no houses, no fields, just the bus stop sign, a little stream, and the trail opening. I slung my rucksack over my shoulder and started up the track. The stream ran along the left side of the trail, and a forest of deciduous trees lined the right. I had been climbing the gentle slope for some 15 minutes when I came to a road leading into the woods on the right, the opening barely wide enough to accommodate a car. AMI HOSTEL PRIVATE NO TRESPASSING read the sign by the road. Sharply etched tyre tracks ran up the road through the trees. The occasional flapping of wings echoed in the woods. The sound came through with strange clarity, as if amplified above the other voices of the forest. Once, from far away, I heard what might have been a rifle shot, but it was a small and muffled sound, as though it had passed through several filters. Beyond the woods I came to a white stone wall. It was no higher than my own height and, lacking additional barriers on top, would have been easy for me to scale. The black iron gate looked sturdy enough, but it was wide open, and there was no one manning the guardhouse. Another sign like the last one stood by the gate: AMI HOSTEL 111

still taste my morning coffee. By the time the number of curves began<br />

to decrease to the point where I felt some relief, the bus plunged into a<br />

chilling cedar forest. The trees might have been old growth the way<br />

they towered over the road, blocking out the sun and covering<br />

everything in gloomy shadows. The breeze flowing into the bus's open<br />

windows turned suddenly cold, its dampness sharp against the skin.<br />

The valley road hugged the river bank, continuing so long through the<br />

trees it began to seem as if the whole world had been buried for ever<br />

in cedar forest - at which point the forest ended, and we came to an<br />

open basin surrounded by mountain peaks. Broad, green farmland<br />

spread out in all directions, and the river by the road looked bright and<br />

clear. A single thread of white smoke rose in the distance. Some<br />

houses had laundry drying in the sun, and dogs were howling. Each<br />

farmhouse had fire<strong>wood</strong> out front piled up to the eaves, usually with a<br />

cat resting somewhere on the pile. The road was lined with such<br />

houses for a time, but I saw not a single person.<br />

The scenery repeated this pattern any number of times. The bus would<br />

enter cedar forest, come out to a village, then go back into forest. It<br />

would stop at a village to let people off, but no one ever got on. Forty<br />

minutes after leaving the city, the bus reached a mountain pass with a<br />

wide-open view. The driver stopped the bus and announced that we<br />

would be waiting there for five or six minutes: people could step down<br />

from the bus if they wished. There were only four passengers left now,<br />

including me. We all got out and stretched or smoked and looked<br />

down at the panorama of Kyoto far below. The driver went off to one<br />

side for a pee. A suntanned man in his early fifties who had boarded<br />

the bus with a big, rope-tied cardboard carton asked me if I was going<br />

out to hike in the mountains. I said yes to keep things simple.<br />

Eventually another bus came climbing up from the other side of the<br />

pass and stopped next to ours. The driver got out, had a short talk with<br />

our driver, and the two men climbed back into their buses. The four of<br />

us returned to our seats, and the buses pulled out in opposite<br />

110

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