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The In Harmony With Education Program - Bose

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Black Line Masters for the<br />

MENC: <strong>The</strong> National Association for Music <strong>Education</strong><br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Harmony</strong> <strong>With</strong> <strong>Education</strong> ®<br />

<strong>Program</strong><br />

<strong>In</strong> this packet, you will find five masters, labeled with letters a-e, to be duplicated for use<br />

as you teach the lessons outlined in the <strong>In</strong> <strong>Harmony</strong> <strong>With</strong> <strong>Education</strong> ®<br />

program Teacher’s<br />

Guide.<br />

<strong>The</strong> remaining, numbered masters can be duplicated by you or your students as a source<br />

of ideas for the task of building musical instruments. <strong>The</strong>se masters are not, however, the only<br />

possibilities that you or your students should explore. <strong>The</strong>y are included here because they are<br />

instruments that are:<br />

• relatively inexpensive (most of the parts can be purchased at either a hardware store or,<br />

in the case of strings for some instruments, at a neighborhood music store).<br />

• likely to work well together.<br />

• well-suited to teaching important aspects of the production of musical sound.<br />

Your students may elect to make instruments that are much simpler than those described<br />

here. If limited by time or resources, for example, students may produce:<br />

• an <strong>In</strong>dian jaltarang, a percussion instrument consisting of a series of bowls tuned by the<br />

level of water in each bowl.<br />

• a zither consisting of a series of rubber bands stretched over a resonant cavity (large<br />

Styrofoam cups work well).<br />

• percussion instruments such as spoons (clappers) or shakers—or even an “instrument of<br />

defined body-percussion methods.<br />

Whenever students produce instruments with definite pitch, you will want to make certain<br />

that the pitches used will work in the context of the <strong>In</strong> <strong>Harmony</strong> <strong>With</strong> <strong>Education</strong> program.<br />

This means that the instruments should produce pitches from the pentatonic scale, G,<br />

A, B, D, E. (Note that some of the instruments defined in the Black Line Masters produce a<br />

plagal version of this scale, D, E, G, A, B). Whatever the students’ approach, you should<br />

encourage them to think through the cultural background of their instruments, the best musical<br />

uses of their instruments, and the scientific implications of the ways that they can use<br />

their instruments to control sound. <strong>The</strong> printed black line masters have notes on these<br />

aspects; the blank master gives students a place to spell out this information, as well.<br />

You should ask that all students submit plans for their instruments before making them.<br />

This will give you the chance to make certain that the students are thinking logically about<br />

the dimensions of sound to be controlled and the musical effects to be gained. It will also help<br />

parents who are involved enough to accompany the students on trips to buy (inexpensive)<br />

supplies—because the Black Line Masters used in planning contain parts lists.<br />

Finally, you should demand that students follow all appropriate safety procedures when<br />

making their instruments. <strong>In</strong>sist that students adhere strictly to all manufacturers’ instructions<br />

regarding ventilation for adhesives and safety glasses or other items for tools—and insist that<br />

they use common sense in their work.


1<br />

On the plywood, mark out<br />

an arc by using a compass set<br />

to 5" (or do it freehand).<br />

Tune the instrument:<br />

raise the pitch of any<br />

nail by hammering it in;<br />

lower the pitch by carefully<br />

pulling out a little<br />

with the hammer's claws.<br />

Tune to: D, E, G, A, B<br />

Making a Nail Violin/Nail Piano<br />

MENC: <strong>The</strong> National Association for Music <strong>Education</strong><br />

3<br />

12d<br />

MASTER #1<br />

2<br />

Starting 1" from the edge<br />

of the wood, pound in<br />

nails every 1-1/2" along<br />

the arc–putting the<br />

largest nails at the top<br />

and the smallest at the<br />

bottom. Don’t hammer<br />

them too deep.<br />

12d 12d<br />

10d<br />

8d


Materials<br />

❑ piece of 1/2" plywood, 12" x 6" or<br />

larger<br />

❑ 5 nails: 3 12d, 1 10d, 1 8d<br />

❑ violin or cello bow, or general<br />

instrument bow (see Master #2)<br />

Playing the Nail Violin<br />

Hold it in your left hand, with the arc of<br />

nails facing in front of you and the bottom<br />

resting on your left knee. <strong>The</strong>n, either:<br />

• bow the nails near the nail heads, or<br />

• strike the nails with a stick near the<br />

board<br />

<strong>The</strong> Nail Violin in<br />

Science and Culture<br />

<strong>The</strong> first nail violin that<br />

we know of was invented in<br />

1740 by a German violinist,<br />

Johann Wilde. <strong>The</strong> nails<br />

vibrate in much the same<br />

way as the bars on the xylophone<br />

and, like the xylophone<br />

bars, will give a pitch<br />

that gets progressively lower<br />

as the nails get longer and<br />

heavier. That is why the nail<br />

violin can be tuned by<br />

pounding the nails more to<br />

make them higher in pitch.<br />

[Note that, just as you can<br />

strike the nails on a nail violin,<br />

you can bow the bars of a<br />

xylophone or metallophone.]


4<br />

1<br />

5<br />

Run the strings<br />

over the rosin<br />

until they are well<br />

coated.<br />

Notch each end<br />

so that the notches<br />

go about 1/8" into<br />

the wood.<br />

Making a Multi-Purpose Bow<br />

MENC: <strong>The</strong> National Association for Music <strong>Education</strong><br />

Tie the other end<br />

around the stick about<br />

1/2" short of the lower<br />

notches. <strong>The</strong>n, slide<br />

the knot down (bending<br />

the stick as you do<br />

so) and pull tight.<br />

24"<br />

3<br />

MASTER #2<br />

2<br />

Run a loop of dental floss to a chair<br />

about 30" away from you, back to<br />

your hand, and back to the chair—<br />

until you have a pretty good size<br />

bundle.<br />

Tie one end of<br />

the bundle off<br />

to the upper<br />

notches and<br />

pull tight.


Materials<br />

❑ 1 flexible wood lath, about 1/4" x<br />

1/2", or 1/4" diameter dowel, about<br />

24" long (in a pinch, a relatively<br />

straight stick from a tree will do)<br />

❑ 1 roll unwaxed dental floss<br />

❑ 1 cake violin, cello, or bass rosin<br />

Tools<br />

❑ knife<br />

Playing with the Bow<br />

Grab the stick at the lower end (traditionally,<br />

with the right hand), and insert the<br />

ring and middle fingers between the stick<br />

and the fibers. Using those fingers, hold the<br />

fibers away from the stick and run them<br />

over the string to make it vibrate.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Bow in Science and<br />

Culture<br />

Bows for stringed instruments<br />

are used by cultures<br />

throughout the world—the<br />

European viol and violin families,<br />

the Arabic rebab, the<br />

Chinese er hu, to name a few.<br />

<strong>In</strong> playing with any bow, a<br />

musician needs to be able to<br />

control the tightness of the<br />

bow fibers. On modern violin<br />

bows, this is done with a screw<br />

mechanism; on many other<br />

bows, this tightness is regulated<br />

with the thumb.<br />

On many bows, the fiber<br />

that is rubbed across the strings<br />

of an instrument are made<br />

from animal hairs—the best<br />

known being the long hairs<br />

from the tails of horses. When<br />

the bow is rubbed across the<br />

string, friction helps it pull the<br />

string to one side. When the<br />

elastic force of the string (the<br />

way the string “wants” to go<br />

back to being straight) gets<br />

strong enough, it springs back.<br />

If the bow is still moving, it<br />

pulls it to the side again; it<br />

springs back again; and so on,<br />

over and over—many times a<br />

second.<br />

Rosin (made from the sap of<br />

certain trees) is rubbed on the<br />

bow hairs to add to the friction<br />

that makes the bow work.


1 Make an acute diagonal<br />

cut in one end of the<br />

1/2" diameter pipe with<br />

the hacksaw.<br />

6<br />

<strong>In</strong>sert into the<br />

13/16" pipe.<br />

Tape the reed in place<br />

so that its tip is just<br />

even with the top of<br />

the pipe; the flat side<br />

should be against the<br />

pipe.<br />

Making a Slide Clarinet<br />

MENC: <strong>The</strong> National Association for Music <strong>Education</strong><br />

5<br />

11"<br />

1<br />

2<br />

;;;;;<br />

;;;;;<br />

;;;;;<br />

4<br />

Roll the O-rings<br />

into place<br />

between the<br />

bands of tape,<br />

and coat with<br />

Vaseline.<br />

2<br />

MASTER #3<br />

Holding the sandpaper<br />

flat on the<br />

table, round off the<br />

diagonal cut so that<br />

it is convex.<br />

3<br />

On the other end of the<br />

pipe, wrap two bands of<br />

electrician’s tape about five<br />

or six layers deep, leaving<br />

about 1/4" free space<br />

between them.<br />

4 O-<br />

3


Materials<br />

❑ 1 piece 1/2" inside diameter PVC pipe,<br />

13" long<br />

❑ 1 piece 13/16" inside diameter PVC<br />

pipe, 11" long<br />

❑ 1 roll electrician’s (black) tape<br />

❑ 2 rubber O-rings ( 3/4 x 9/16 x<br />

3/32); you can get them in the<br />

plumbing section of a hardware<br />

store<br />

❑ Vaseline<br />

❑ 1 clarinet reed (#2)<br />

Tools<br />

❑ hacksaw<br />

❑ 100 grit sandpaper<br />

Playing the Slide Clarinet<br />

• Dampen the reed with saliva. Place it<br />

against your lower lip and blow hard.<br />

• Holding the top of the 1/2" pipe with your<br />

left hand, slide the 3/4" pipe in and out<br />

with your right hand. You should be able<br />

to get a range of about a Major 3rd, G<br />

to B.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Clarinet in Science<br />

and Culture<br />

<strong>The</strong> clarinet is technically a<br />

blown instrument with a cylindrical<br />

(straight) tube and a single<br />

reed. <strong>The</strong> reed is held in the<br />

player’s mouth in such a way<br />

that it “flaps” against the end of<br />

the clarinet, opening and closing<br />

many times a second and setting<br />

up a vibration in the air inside<br />

the instrument. <strong>The</strong> closed<br />

cylindrical shape of the air column<br />

gives it a distinctive sound<br />

(with only every other overtone);<br />

by opening holes in the<br />

side of the instrument, the player<br />

can effectively shorten the<br />

clarinet and produce higher<br />

pitches.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re are early clarinets—<br />

that is, single-reed instruments—in<br />

many cultures. One<br />

type was called the chalumeau—<br />

and the lower, fuller part of the<br />

modern clarinet’s range is still<br />

called the “chalumeau register.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> modern European clarinet<br />

was developed by Johann<br />

Christoph Denner in about<br />

1710. <strong>The</strong> fingering system was<br />

greatly improved in about 1840<br />

by H. Klose and L. Buffet (who<br />

followed the principals introduced<br />

on flutes by T. Boehm).<br />

Clarinets exist in many sizes,<br />

which allow players of the whole<br />

family of instruments to play<br />

very low and very high notes<br />

and to play conveniently in<br />

many keys.


1<br />

Drill a 1/4" hole in the<br />

center of the plywood,<br />

about 2" from one end.<br />

Run the guitar string<br />

through the small<br />

hole in the can and<br />

loop it several times<br />

so that it doesn’t<br />

slip—through the<br />

two small holes in<br />

the other end of the<br />

board.<br />

6<br />

MENC: <strong>The</strong> National Association for Music <strong>Education</strong><br />

<strong>In</strong>sert the dowel through the triangular<br />

openings in the can and then<br />

through the 1/4" hole in the board.<br />

About 2" from the lower end of the<br />

dowel, wrap tape around the dowel<br />

beneath the board to keep it from<br />

slipping back through the hole.<br />

5<br />

Making a Dan Bau<br />

1. 2.<br />

4<br />

2<br />

Drill a 1/8" hole<br />

in the center of<br />

the intact end of<br />

the can.<br />

MASTER #4<br />

About 5" from the<br />

other end, drill two<br />

1/8" holes.<br />

Taking the empty<br />

can with one end<br />

removed, use a can opener<br />

to make openings<br />

across from one another<br />

in the base near the<br />

intact end.<br />

4.<br />

3.<br />

3


Materials<br />

❑ sheet of 1/8" plywood, about 6" x 30"<br />

❑ dowel 1/4" diameter or larger, about 8"<br />

long<br />

❑ tin can (such as a soup can)<br />

❑ steel guitar string, about .014 gauge<br />

❑ tape (such as electrician's or masking tape)<br />

Tools<br />

❑ saw, to cut wood parts to size<br />

❑ 1/4" drill<br />

❑ 1/8" drill<br />

❑ can opener<br />

Playing the Dan Bau<br />

• Squatting on the floor, hold the dowel<br />

in the right hand with the other end of<br />

the board to your left. Hold down the far<br />

left end of the board with one foot.<br />

• Raise the can off the board by about 3"<br />

and pull the string tight.<br />

• Pluck the string with the left hand while<br />

pulling on the dowel to adjust tension<br />

with the right.<br />

• To get the real dan bau sound, you must<br />

play harmonics. Experiment with plucking<br />

the string with the index finger of<br />

the left hand while hitting the string at<br />

one point with the thumb—which you<br />

have to locate at a point 1/4, 2/3, or<br />

another simple ratio along the length of<br />

the string. It takes practice to find the<br />

exact point for a “harmonic node,” but<br />

the sound is worth it.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Dan Bau in Science<br />

and Culture<br />

Playing the dan bau shows<br />

the interaction between<br />

string tension and pitch—the<br />

tighter the string, the faster it<br />

vibrates, and the higher the<br />

pitch. It also shows the interesting<br />

sound quality that can<br />

come with harmonics. When<br />

the string is touched at a<br />

“node,” located at a point<br />

that cuts the string into<br />

lengths that form a simple<br />

ratio, only the “harmonic”<br />

that is still at that point can<br />

vibrate.<br />

Normally, strings vibrate<br />

simultaneously with many<br />

harmonics. <strong>The</strong> result is a<br />

high-pitched, pure sound.<br />

<strong>The</strong> dan bau is native to<br />

Vietnam. <strong>In</strong> that country, it<br />

is usually more elaborate—<br />

and the technique for producing<br />

harmonics is more<br />

elaborate than that given<br />

here. It is often used to<br />

accompany the reciting of<br />

epics, but is also played by<br />

itself.


1<br />

3<br />

Cut the bottom 2" or 3"<br />

out of the soda bottle.<br />

Fold about 1" of the<br />

remaining bottle material<br />

inside.<br />

Place the cloth tightly over<br />

the inner circle of the<br />

embroidery hoop. Place the<br />

outer hoop around it and<br />

tighten.<br />

Make a Tunable Drum<br />

MENC: <strong>The</strong> National Association for Music <strong>Education</strong><br />

MASTER #5<br />

2<br />

Run a thin line of glue<br />

around the place<br />

where the cloth disappears<br />

into the space<br />

between the hoops<br />

and let it dry. Make a<br />

thin “varnish” of<br />

watered-down glue<br />

and coat the entire<br />

cloth surface.


Materials<br />

❑ 1 embroidery hoop (6")<br />

❑ 1 square of linen or other cloth, about<br />

8" x 8"<br />

❑ white glue<br />

❑ 2-liter plastic soda bottle<br />

❑ pencil or mallet<br />

Tools<br />

❑ knife<br />

❑ scissors<br />

Playing the Tunable Drum<br />

Hold the soda bottle neck down, grab the<br />

bottle between your legs. Place the hoopand-cloth<br />

“drum head” over the wide opening.<br />

Holding the edges of the hoop down<br />

with the left hand, use a pencil end or<br />

other small stick to strike the head.<br />

Pressing down on the hoop will raise the<br />

pitch—and you can experiment with dampening<br />

the cloth of the head to tighten it<br />

and get a better sound.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Drum in Science<br />

and Culture<br />

Drums—membranes<br />

stretched over a resonant<br />

cavity—appear in almost all<br />

cultures. <strong>In</strong> any drum,<br />

tightening the head gives a<br />

higher pitch (though the<br />

pitch may be too complex<br />

to be heard as a single<br />

pitch). This effect is used by<br />

players of the dunsdun of<br />

the Yoruba people, who<br />

press on the strings that<br />

hold the heads of their<br />

hourglass-shaped instruments<br />

to vary the head tension<br />

while they play.<br />

Modern orchestral kettledrums,<br />

or timpani, have a<br />

mechanism to accomplish<br />

this same effect. <strong>The</strong> mechanism<br />

on these instruments<br />

is worked with a foot pedal<br />

or a hand crank.<br />

<strong>The</strong> difficulty in identifying<br />

exact pitches of many<br />

drums comes from the fact<br />

that the drum head can<br />

vibrate in many, extremely<br />

complex, ways—and not all<br />

of these ways of vibration<br />

give frequencies that line up<br />

according to the orderly overtone<br />

series produced by<br />

instruments of exact pitch.


1<br />

Coil the tube and tape<br />

the coils together.<br />

<strong>In</strong>sert the mouthpiece into one<br />

end of the tubing. Blow into it,<br />

using the same embouchure as on<br />

any brass instrument, and determine<br />

the note (which should be<br />

a little flat from G).<br />

Making a Hoseaphone<br />

MENC: <strong>The</strong> National Association for Music <strong>Education</strong><br />

4<br />

3<br />

MASTER #6<br />

2<br />

Using the knife, cut off a little<br />

of the free end of the<br />

hose and test again. Repeat<br />

as necessary until the fundamental<br />

note sounds as G.<br />

<strong>In</strong>sert the funnel into the free<br />

end. Test the tuning again; it<br />

may be necessary to trim the<br />

tube a little more.


Materials<br />

❑ 1 brass instrument mouthpiece<br />

❑ 3/8" inside diameter plastic tubing<br />

(about 5' 4")<br />

❑ kitchen funnel<br />

❑ electrician’s tape<br />

Tools<br />

❑ knife<br />

Playing the Hoseaphone<br />

You can hold the coiled tube in any way<br />

you want—keeping the funnel to the front<br />

will project more sound to your audience.<br />

Keeping your lips loosely compressed, put<br />

the mouthpiece to the center of your<br />

mouth and blow, allowing the lips to<br />

“buzz.” By increasing the pressure of your<br />

blowing and the tension of your lips, you<br />

will be able to play some of the overtones<br />

available on your instrument (you should<br />

be able to get at least G, D, and G an<br />

octave higher).<br />

<strong>The</strong> Hoseaphone in<br />

Science and Culture<br />

<strong>The</strong> hoseaphone is a fanciful<br />

instrument played by some musicians<br />

as a joke—but, in principle,<br />

it is equivalent to any one of<br />

a number of “lip-vibrated aerophones”<br />

(instruments into which<br />

the player blows, creating vibrations<br />

with his or her lips). <strong>In</strong><br />

Oceania, shells have holes cut<br />

into them that act as mouthpieces;<br />

in Tibet, large animal<br />

bones are hollowed out and<br />

blown in this way; in the northwestern<br />

corner of South<br />

America, some cultures made<br />

“trumpets” out of pottery; and<br />

the use of metal to make these<br />

“brass” instruments dates back at<br />

least to the first millennium<br />

B.C.E. in uses by Assyrian,<br />

Egyptian, and Hebrew cultures.<br />

One of the most interesting<br />

aspects of the science of trumpet-making<br />

is the effect of the<br />

shape of the tube on the sound.<br />

First, the tube can be curled<br />

around without any appreciable<br />

effect on the pitch or tone<br />

color—but the shape of the tube<br />

has a great effect. For example,<br />

modern orchestral trumpets are<br />

basically cylindrical (straight)<br />

tubes. Cornets, on the other<br />

hand, have a more conical tube,<br />

giving them a “softer” tone color<br />

with weaker upper overtones.


1<br />

MENC: <strong>The</strong> National Association for Music <strong>Education</strong><br />

Cut the PVC into<br />

the following<br />

lengths (in inches):<br />

9 1/2", 8 1/2",7 1/2",<br />

7" and 6". Sand the<br />

ends smooth.<br />

<strong>In</strong>sert a “cork” of rolled up plastic<br />

wrap into the lower ends, a little<br />

at a time, and tune the tubes to<br />

G, A, B, D, and E. Pushing the<br />

corks in will make the pitch<br />

higher—pushing out with a<br />

dowel or other stick will make<br />

the pitch lower.<br />

Making Panpipes<br />

3<br />

MASTER #7<br />

Align the top<br />

ends of the tubes<br />

and tape them<br />

together.<br />

2


Materials<br />

❑ 1/2" diameter PVC tubing<br />

(about 37" total)<br />

❑ duct tape<br />

❑ plastic kitchen wrap<br />

Tools<br />

❑ hacksaw<br />

❑ 100 grit sandpaper<br />

Playing the Panpipes<br />

Hold the pipes with the longest tube on<br />

your left. Blow strongly across the top, saying<br />

something like “doo” to get a definite<br />

beginning to the sound. Practice doing this<br />

with each tube in scale order and jumping<br />

from note to note.<br />

Panpipes in Science and<br />

Culture<br />

Also called raft pipes<br />

(because they look somewhat<br />

like a raft of logs), they are<br />

used by many cultures including<br />

the Aymara of the South<br />

American Andes and the<br />

Basque of Spain and France.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y were even specified as<br />

the instrument for the character<br />

Papageno in Mozart’s<br />

opera, <strong>The</strong> Magic Flute.<br />

<strong>The</strong> sikuri (singular siku),<br />

the pipes of the Aymara, are<br />

distinctive in that they are<br />

made in pairs. <strong>The</strong> notes of<br />

any given melody are divided<br />

between the players of each<br />

panpipe in the pair—and<br />

only by alternating, or interlocking,<br />

the notes of their<br />

two paired instruments can<br />

musicians play their relatively<br />

complex and very exciting<br />

pieces.<br />

When panpipes are<br />

played, blowing over the tops<br />

of the tubes causes turbulence<br />

in the air stream. <strong>The</strong><br />

air tends to alternate passing<br />

over the top and into the<br />

tube, setting up a vibration<br />

inside the tube. <strong>The</strong> speed of<br />

the vibration is set by the<br />

length of the tube—the<br />

longer the tube, the slower<br />

the vibration, and the lower<br />

the pitch.


5<br />

1<br />

Open one end of<br />

can. Make two<br />

holes with the nail<br />

or awl on opposite<br />

sides near closed<br />

end of can.<br />

Run the guitar string through<br />

the 1/8" hole in the big<br />

dowel, over the small piece of<br />

wood (the bridge) placed<br />

against the can, and through<br />

the 1/8" hole in the little<br />

dowel.<br />

Twist the little dowel to tune.<br />

MENC: <strong>The</strong> National Association for Music <strong>Education</strong><br />

4<br />

Stick the 1"<br />

dowel through<br />

the tube; stick<br />

the 3/8" dowel<br />

through the 1"<br />

dowel.<br />

Making an Erhu<br />

2<br />

MASTER #8<br />

Widen each hole with<br />

metal shears to 1"<br />

diameter.<br />

Tape around jagged<br />

edges of holes.<br />

On the 1" dowel, drill<br />

a 3/8" hole 2" from<br />

one end, and an 1/8"<br />

hole at other end.<br />

On the 3/8" dowel,<br />

drill an 1/8" hole near<br />

one end.<br />

3


Materials<br />

❑ can (large, such as 28 oz. tomato sauce)<br />

❑ 1" wooden dowel, about 20" long<br />

❑ 3/8" wooden dowel, about 4" long<br />

❑ piece of wood, about 3" x 1/2" x 1/4"<br />

❑ metal guitar string (about .010 gauge)<br />

❑ electrician’s or duct tape<br />

Tools<br />

❑ 1" drill<br />

❑ 3/8" drill<br />

❑ 1/8" drill<br />

❑ metal shears (tin snips)<br />

❑ nail or awl<br />

Playing the Erhu<br />

Hold the upright spike of the instrument<br />

between the thumb and palm of the left<br />

hand. Place the lower spike against the<br />

right thigh, and hold a bow in the right<br />

hand. While drawing the bow across the<br />

strings, you can lightly touch the strings<br />

with the fingers of the left hand to get new<br />

pitches. Don’t try to push the strings all the<br />

way down to the spike.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Erhu in Science and<br />

Culture<br />

<strong>The</strong> name “erhu” means<br />

two-stringed barbarian [fiddle]—it<br />

was introduced into<br />

China in a period of expanding<br />

foreign influence. <strong>The</strong><br />

real erhu has two strings,<br />

with the bow passed between<br />

them. <strong>The</strong> erhu fits into the<br />

general classification of<br />

“spike fiddle” or string instrument<br />

in which a single spike,<br />

which holds the string or<br />

strings, is driven through a<br />

resonator.<br />

<strong>In</strong>struments of this type<br />

show up in many cultures<br />

and are possibly at the basis<br />

of modern Western bowed<br />

string instruments.


MENC: <strong>The</strong> National Association for Music <strong>Education</strong><br />

Making a Maraca<br />

1 Put the rattling medium<br />

in the box or can. 2 Tape or seal it shut.<br />

MASTER #9


Materials<br />

❑ Anything that can hold things, like an<br />

old coffee can, juice can, cardboard box<br />

(such as a one-serving cereal box)<br />

❑ Anything that rattles, like rice, beans,<br />

popcorn, small stones<br />

Playing the Maraca<br />

Rattle, swirl, or strike it. Try to hold it so<br />

that it does not inhibit the vibration of the<br />

box.<br />

Maracas in Science &<br />

Culture<br />

Maracas are best known to<br />

most residents of the United<br />

States in the context of<br />

music from South America,<br />

but in the generic form of<br />

shakers, they are used in<br />

many musics, notably those<br />

of Native Americans. Folk<br />

instruments are often gourds<br />

(large seed-pods of various<br />

plants) filled with beads,<br />

seeds, or stones.


MENC: <strong>The</strong> National Association for Music <strong>Education</strong><br />

1 Take a cardboard paper towel<br />

tube. Coat it with a few layers<br />

of white glue. Alternatively, use<br />

a plastic tube or thick wooden<br />

dowel.<br />

Making a Güiro<br />

2 Cut a series of slits on one<br />

side of the tube.<br />

MASTER #10


Materials<br />

❑ 1 cardboard, wood, or plastic tube<br />

❑ 1 thin stick as scraper<br />

Playing the Güiro<br />

• Hold the instrument cupped in the left<br />

hand, leaving as much of the tube free to<br />

vibrate as possible.<br />

• Holding the stick in the right hand,<br />

scrape it along the serrations. Experiment<br />

with moving the stick more or less<br />

rapidly.<br />

• For a louder sound, hold one end of the<br />

güiro against a desk, box, or other<br />

resonator.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Güiro in Science and<br />

Culture<br />

An instrument most often<br />

found in the music of Central<br />

America and the Caribbean,<br />

it goes by many other names:<br />

rascador in Cuba, guachara<br />

in Panama and Colombia. It<br />

is usually a piece of wood or a<br />

gourd (plant) with serrations<br />

(rough spots) in one side.<br />

<strong>The</strong> player slides a scraper<br />

over the serrations. As a percussion<br />

instrument, it has the<br />

advantage of allowing very<br />

short, accented effects, or (by<br />

scraping more slowly) longer<br />

held “notes.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> güiro is called for in<br />

some very large orchestral<br />

scores, like Stravinsky’s Rite<br />

of Spring. <strong>In</strong> Ravel’s opera,<br />

<strong>The</strong> Child and the Sorcerers,<br />

the güiro is specified as a<br />

possible substitution for<br />

another instrument—the<br />

cheese grater.


3<br />

1<br />

Making a Prepared Piano<br />

MENC: <strong>The</strong> National Association for Music <strong>Education</strong><br />

Using great care not to drop or mar anything, screw<br />

a wood screw between one of the pairs of strings in<br />

the tenor register of the piano.<br />

Try moving it for different sounds.<br />

Try weaving a piece of paper over and under the strings<br />

about 5" in front of the hammers. Note: you can also try<br />

preparing an autoharp.<br />

MASTER #11<br />

2<br />

Try placing a rubber<br />

eraser between string<br />

pairs.<br />

Again, try moving it<br />

for different sounds.


Materials<br />

❑ 1 piano (preferably a grand rather than<br />

an upright)<br />

❑ several wood screws, erasers, paper<br />

Playing the Prepared Piano<br />

Play just as you would any piano—but you<br />

will find that the pitches aren’t necessarily<br />

in order any more. So in writing for prepared<br />

piano, you should think of each key<br />

as actuating a separate percussion instrument<br />

rather than a note on one instrument.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Prepared Piano in<br />

Science and Culture<br />

American composer John<br />

Cage developed the prepared<br />

piano as a way to get the<br />

variety of sounds offered by a<br />

large group of percussion<br />

instruments—without having<br />

to cart around a large group<br />

of percussion instruments. <strong>In</strong><br />

his 1940 composition,<br />

Bacchanale, he directed the<br />

performer to “prepare” a<br />

piano by placing screws,<br />

bolts, and bits of rubber in<br />

the strings.<br />

<strong>The</strong> exact placement of<br />

the items is essential—if a<br />

preparation is put at a “node”<br />

of one of the string’s overtones,<br />

it will tend to reinforce<br />

that overtone. If it is<br />

placed at a point that is not a<br />

node, it will tend to deaden<br />

the string and make the pitch<br />

less definite (harder to identify<br />

as a single note).<br />

<strong>The</strong> material is also<br />

important; if it is softer, it<br />

tends to deaden the string’s<br />

vibration.


7<br />

1<br />

Drill a 1/4" hole about<br />

1" from one end of the<br />

tube; use the nail or<br />

awl to poke a small<br />

hole in the other end.<br />

Loosen<br />

the<br />

string<br />

and cut<br />

notches at the marked<br />

positions. <strong>The</strong> notches<br />

should be deep enough that<br />

a Pospsicle stick placed in<br />

each one just clears the top<br />

of the tube<br />

Re-tighten the string.<br />

MENC: <strong>The</strong> National Association for Music <strong>Education</strong><br />

3<br />

6<br />

Press the string against the tube to find the<br />

notes E, G, A, B, and D. Mark the positions of<br />

each note. <strong>The</strong>y will be about 2 1/2", 5 3/4",<br />

7 1/4", 8 3/4", 10 3/4" from the screw.<br />

Making a Tube Vina<br />

1<br />

2<br />

2<br />

3<br />

MASTER #12<br />

Thread a nut and washer<br />

up to the top of the<br />

eye bolt; insert in the<br />

1/4" hole.<br />

Put the other washer<br />

and nut inside and<br />

tighten finger tight.<br />

4<br />

Saw a shallow<br />

notch perpindicular<br />

to<br />

the axis of the<br />

tube about 1/2"<br />

from the small<br />

hole. Place a<br />

Popsicle stick<br />

in it.<br />

5<br />

Working from inside out, poke guitar string<br />

through the small hole, run it over the<br />

Popsicle stick bridge, thread it through and<br />

around the eye bolt, twisting to bring it up<br />

to a “d”.<br />

5<br />

6<br />

4


Materials<br />

❑ 1 cardboard mailing tube (about 3"<br />

diameter, about 24" long)—must be<br />

thick cardboard<br />

❑ 1 eye bolt (1/4" x 2", with 2 nuts and<br />

washers)<br />

❑ 6 Popsicle sticks<br />

❑ 1 guitar string (D or 4th for nylon-string<br />

guitar)<br />

Tools<br />

❑ saw (preferably a keyhole saw)<br />

❑ 1/4" drill<br />

❑ nail or awl<br />

Playing the Vina<br />

• Hold the instrument upright, resting on<br />

your left knee.<br />

• <strong>With</strong> the left hand, place a finger just<br />

behind one of the Popsicle stick frets.<br />

• <strong>With</strong> the right hand, pluck the string<br />

close to the bridge.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Vina in Science<br />

and Culture<br />

<strong>The</strong> earliest references to<br />

the vina are about 3,000<br />

years old—and various related<br />

instruments are still<br />

played today in <strong>In</strong>dia and in<br />

Southeast Asia. <strong>The</strong> bin and<br />

the sitar are perhaps the best<br />

known such instruments. <strong>In</strong><br />

addition, the basic idea of a<br />

stretched string running over<br />

frets appears in many cultures—closest<br />

to home in the<br />

United States, in the guitar.<br />

Plucking the string gives<br />

energy for vibration, and the<br />

speed of vibration is directly<br />

proportional to the length of<br />

the string. That is why the<br />

fret for the octave D in this<br />

instrument ends up exactly<br />

half way between the bridge<br />

and the tuning bolt.


4<br />

1<br />

Glue down one<br />

Popsicle stick<br />

near one edge of<br />

the block of<br />

wood.<br />

Tighten the screws a little—<br />

still allowing some movement<br />

of the sticks. Pull in<br />

and push out to tune to G,<br />

A, B, D, E.<br />

MENC: <strong>The</strong> National Association for Music <strong>Education</strong><br />

Making a Mbira<br />

2<br />

1<br />

Put a screw in each hole<br />

and insert a Popsicle<br />

stick between each pair<br />

of screws. <strong>The</strong> sticks<br />

should project over the<br />

glued-down stick.<br />

2<br />

MASTER #13<br />

About 1/2" back<br />

from the stick,<br />

make holes for 6<br />

screws. Separate<br />

each hole by<br />

1/2".<br />

3


Materials<br />

❑ 6 Popsicle sticks (better to have more, as<br />

they can vary considerably in thickness<br />

and flexibility)<br />

❑ 1 block of 3/4" wood, about 5" x 3"<br />

❑ 6 screws (flathead #6 sheet metal screws)<br />

Tools<br />

❑ glue<br />

❑ screwdriver<br />

Playing the Mbira<br />

• Place on a resonant surface (such as a<br />

desk or table) and hold in place with the<br />

left hand; flick down on the Popsicle<br />

sticks with the right hand.<br />

• To make the mbira self-contained, mount<br />

it on a permanent resonator such as a<br />

box, a discarded one-gallon milk<br />

container, or other hollow body.<br />

• You can also make a bass mbira by using<br />

larger screws and wooden (not plastic)<br />

rulers in the place of Popsicle sticks.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Mbira in Science<br />

and Culture<br />

Mbira is only one word for<br />

a “lamellaphone”: an instrument<br />

that makes sound with<br />

lamella (thin plates of wood,<br />

metal, or another material).<br />

If the material is uniform, a<br />

longer lamella will produce a<br />

lower note. If it is not uniform,<br />

factors such as weight<br />

and flexibility come into play<br />

to complicate matters.<br />

<strong>In</strong> several parts of Africa,<br />

lamellaphones are used as<br />

important instruments to<br />

accompany song. Other<br />

names for it are malimba,<br />

kalimba, likembe, agidigbo,<br />

and sansa. <strong>In</strong> some cases, as<br />

among the Nsenga people,<br />

the music is purely instrumental.<br />

<strong>The</strong> resonator cavity<br />

for the instrument is sometimes<br />

a wooden box (often<br />

with soundholes that can be<br />

covered or uncovered by the<br />

player to alter the tone), and<br />

sometimes a gourd.


1<br />

Cut the cardboard as<br />

shown and tape<br />

together to form a box.<br />

4 Place the bars in<br />

order along the resonator<br />

cavity. For the<br />

best sound, they should be<br />

supported by the cardboard at<br />

points 1/4 of the way in from<br />

each end. When you find the<br />

best (most resonant) point for<br />

each bar, mark the spot and<br />

cut shallow notches in the<br />

cardboard to keep the bars in<br />

place. Note: you can use<br />

wooden dowels (at least 3/4"<br />

diameter) in place of the conduit<br />

to make a marimba—but<br />

you will have to experiment<br />

with the proper length to<br />

produce the pitches you want<br />

because lengths will vary<br />

depending on the type of<br />

wood and thickness. You can<br />

also experiment with other<br />

materials—even<br />

paper towel rolls<br />

will give a soft<br />

note (of less definite<br />

pitch) when<br />

struck in this<br />

way.<br />

Making a Metallophone<br />

MENC: <strong>The</strong> National Association for Music <strong>Education</strong><br />

12"<br />

3"<br />

3"<br />

3"<br />

11 3/4"<br />

8"<br />

4"<br />

MASTER #14<br />

2<br />

Cut the conduit to the<br />

following lengths: 13<br />

5/8", 12 3/4", 11 5/8",<br />

11", 10 5/8", 9 5/8"<br />

[Hint: cut the longest<br />

length first and use the<br />

file to tune (as you file<br />

a little off, the pitch<br />

rises). This way, if you<br />

file off too much, you<br />

can still use that<br />

length for a higher<br />

pitch.]<br />

3<br />

Hold up each length of<br />

tubing by a string tied<br />

around its center point<br />

and strike to tune by filing<br />

a little off either<br />

end. You should be able<br />

to get the notes D, E, G,<br />

A, B, and D. Color the<br />

“G” red—it is the<br />

“home” note of the<br />

scale.


Materials<br />

❑ corrugated cardboard (from an old<br />

packing box)<br />

❑ packing tape<br />

❑ 3/4" electrical conduit (about 70" total)<br />

Tools<br />

❑ hacksaw<br />

❑ metal file<br />

❑ knife<br />

Playing the Metallophone<br />

• Strike the bars near the center.<br />

• Experiment with different beaters—<br />

metal, wood, pencil eraser ends, and<br />

so on.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Metallophone in<br />

Science and Culture<br />

Metallophones first show<br />

up in Chinese tombs from<br />

around 700 C.E. Today, they<br />

are prominent in the music<br />

of <strong>In</strong>donesia and, in the form<br />

of the Glockenspiel and<br />

Vibraphone, in Western<br />

music. <strong>The</strong> shape and size of<br />

the resonant cavity in a metallophone<br />

is critical: that is<br />

why the vibraphone can get a<br />

pulsating effect by using a<br />

motor to close off and open<br />

up the resonating tubes that<br />

hang below each key.<br />

<strong>The</strong> marimba (the same<br />

instrument, with wooden<br />

keys) shows up around the<br />

world—notably in Africa and<br />

as an African import into<br />

South America.


1<br />

Mark out on the plywood two lines running<br />

up from the two lower corners (at about a<br />

45 degree angle).<br />

7 <strong>In</strong>sert the blocks<br />

under the strings,<br />

about halfway between the<br />

holes and the screw eyes.<br />

6 Sand the<br />

small wood<br />

blocks to make<br />

a peak on the top of<br />

each one. Fold the<br />

sandpaper and<br />

sand a notch<br />

across each<br />

peak.<br />

MENC: <strong>The</strong> National Association for Music <strong>Education</strong><br />

Making a Koto<br />

MASTER #15<br />

2 Drill a series of five 1/8"<br />

holes about every 2" along<br />

the lines.<br />

5<br />

Run nylon twine<br />

through the holes<br />

on the left, tie it to the screw eyes on<br />

the right, and twist the screw eyes to<br />

tighten.<br />

3<br />

Fasten the two<br />

wooden slats<br />

below the long sides of the<br />

plywood, using glue and<br />

nails.<br />

4<br />

<strong>With</strong> the angle<br />

formed by the<br />

lines on the plywood facing<br />

away from you, insert<br />

the screw eyes in the holes<br />

to the right.


Materials<br />

❑ 1 sheet 1/8" plywood, about 9" x 30"<br />

❑ 2 1/2" wooden slats, about 1" x 30"<br />

❑ 5 screw eyes, about 3/4"<br />

❑ 5 wooden blocks, about 3/4" x 3/4" x 3/8"<br />

❑ thin nylon twine<br />

❑ 6 small nails (brads)<br />

Tools<br />

❑ glue (white glue or carpenter’s glue)<br />

❑ 1/8" drill<br />

❑ hammer<br />

❑ coarse sandpaper<br />

Playing the Koto<br />

Tune the instrument to D, E, G, A, and B<br />

by turning the eyes and moving the woodblock<br />

“bridges” to the left or right. Pluck<br />

the segment of string to the right. When<br />

playing, you can get notes in between the<br />

tuned pitches by pressing down with the<br />

fingers of your left hand on the segment of<br />

each string to the left. This technique is<br />

called, on the Japanese koto, “ko.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> Koto in Science and<br />

Culture<br />

<strong>The</strong> koto is basically a<br />

zither with moveable bridges.<br />

As such, it is a member of a<br />

large family of instruments<br />

across eastern Asia such as<br />

the zheng of China or the<br />

kayagum of Korea. Zithers<br />

are also important to many<br />

other musical traditions. For<br />

example, the Latvians play a<br />

kokle; and in Burundi, musicians<br />

play an inanga.<br />

Tuning and playing the<br />

koto demonstrates the interdependence<br />

between length<br />

and tension in setting the<br />

pitch of a stringed instrument.<br />

Tuning the strings<br />

tighter (raising the tension)<br />

raises the pitch—but so does<br />

moving the bridge (adjusting<br />

the length). And the ko<br />

technique of increasing string<br />

tension while playing also<br />

changes the pitch.


Making a ______________<br />

MENC: <strong>The</strong> National Association for Music <strong>Education</strong><br />

(Create your own musical instrument)<br />

MASTER #16


Materials<br />

❑<br />

❑<br />

❑<br />

❑<br />

Tools<br />

❑<br />

❑<br />

❑<br />

Playing a ______________


Draw a continuous line for each of the four dimensions of musical sound. <strong>The</strong> first section of “dynamics” has been completed for you.<br />

0:00 0:27 1:03 1:38 2:12<br />

loud<br />

Brahms Hungarian Dance #5 Master a<br />

Dynamics<br />

soft<br />

high<br />

Pitch<br />

low<br />

rich<br />

Tone Color<br />

less rich<br />

long<br />

Duration<br />

short<br />

Melody A Melody B Melody C<br />

Melodies A & B


Rondo Planning Sheet<br />

A Section:<br />

Identify the instrument type for each instrumental part. <strong>The</strong>n decide if specific pitches are to<br />

be used, and write them in the space provided. Finally, add a melody (if desired).<br />

Melody<br />

Part 1<br />

type_________<br />

Part 2<br />

type_________<br />

Part 3<br />

type_________<br />

Part 4<br />

type_________<br />

Pitches?<br />

Pitches?<br />

Pitches?<br />

MASTER b<br />

– – – – – – – – – – – – – –<br />

– – – – –<br />

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –<br />

Pitches? – – –– – ––<br />

B Section:<br />

Identify the specific instruments to be used, describe the character of the music to be played, and specify<br />

and rythmic or melodic ideas.<br />

<strong>In</strong>struments________________________<br />

Description___________________________________________________________________<br />

____________________________________________________________________________<br />

Rhythm or melody<br />

MENC: <strong>The</strong> National Association for Music <strong>Education</strong>


MASTER #1<br />

C Section:<br />

<strong>In</strong>struments________________________<br />

Description___________________________________________________________________<br />

____________________________________________________________________________<br />

Rhythm or melody<br />

D Section:<br />

<strong>In</strong>struments________________________<br />

Description___________________________________________________________________<br />

____________________________________________________________________________<br />

Rhythm or melody<br />

E Section:<br />

<strong>In</strong>struments________________________<br />

Description___________________________________________________________________<br />

____________________________________________________________________________<br />

Rhythm or melody


Part 2<br />

Listen, and identify the sound used on CD Track 11. (It is the same sound as that used on CD<br />

track 12, with one difference.)<br />

• Musical Sounds - their “envelopes”<br />

Sound, Overtones, and <strong>In</strong>struments<br />

MENC: <strong>The</strong> National Association for Music <strong>Education</strong><br />

violin clarinet<br />

piano<br />

trumpet<br />

1 2 3 4 56 7 1 2 3 4 5 6 7<br />

1 2 3 4 56 7<br />

1 2 3 4 5<br />

flute sin wave sawtooth wave<br />

1 2 3 4<br />

intensity<br />

(loudness)<br />

1<br />

CD Track 1 CD Track 2<br />

time<br />

1 2 3 4 56 7<br />

MASTER c


Part 3<br />

Listen to the “envelopes” for a series of sounds on the same instrument.<br />

• CD track 13<br />

Identify the characteristics of your instrument<br />

<strong>In</strong>strument name:__________________________________<br />

Method of playing:_________________________________<br />

<strong>In</strong>strument richness (place a mark along the scale):<br />

<strong>In</strong>strument “envelope”<br />

➜<br />

• • • • • • •<br />

sin wave<br />

flute<br />

less rich richer ➜<br />

intensity<br />

(loudness)<br />

time<br />

clarinet<br />

trumpet<br />

piano<br />

violin<br />

sawtooth wave<br />

MASTER #1<br />

a b c d e


Careers That Combine<br />

Music, Science, and Math<br />

If you are considering a career in music, you may not be aware of the variety of music professions available to you and the opportunities<br />

they hold. <strong>In</strong> particular, there are several careers that can call on an individual’s talents and knowledge in the areas introduced<br />

in the <strong>Bose</strong> ® <strong>In</strong> <strong>Harmony</strong> <strong>With</strong> <strong>Education</strong> ® program.<br />

Studio Arranger<br />

Arrangers can be freelance or affiliated with a particular studio. <strong>The</strong>y score songs for the group and the instruments used in the<br />

recording session. <strong>The</strong> arranger may be a songwriter scoring his or her own works, be a member of a performing group, or work fulltime<br />

at arranging. Arrangers’ fees are set by union contracts based on number of score pages: the more scores an arranger prepares,<br />

the higher the fee. Many arrangers work nights; daytime hours are spent answering inquiries and sometimes conducting.<br />

If you want to become an arranger, it is important to read music quickly and write neatly. While you do not have to play any instruments<br />

well, it is very important that you have a working knowledge of each instrument for which you might be scoring, including<br />

their timbres, temperaments, and ranges. You will also need a strong sense of what is currently popular and an instinct for future<br />

trends. <strong>In</strong>come as an arranger is usually based on commissions when music is sold for publication, recording, or broadcast.<br />

Electronic Design Engineer<br />

<strong>The</strong> market for audio electronics—both for consumer and for professional applications—is very large. <strong>The</strong> engineers who design the<br />

equipment that supplies this market are, consequently, likely to be in demand.<br />

If you want to be an electronic design engineer you will need a high level of math proficiency and knowledge of the sciences (particularly<br />

the physical sciences and, perhaps, the life science of psychoacoustics). This means, in practice, taking as much math and<br />

science as you can in high school. <strong>With</strong> some vocational education, this would allow you to work as a technician, or it could allow<br />

you to get into engineering school. Once in college, you will need a four-year Bachelor’s degree in Electrical Engineering to start<br />

design work. Further study (useful in moving forward in the profession) generally includes specialization in fields such as programming,<br />

circuit design, power engineering, or manufacturing/process engineering.<br />

You have the necessary personal attributes if you are good at working as part of a team toward a well-defined, technical goal. And,<br />

of course, a love of music can help as a motivator. Salary range in this field for a graduate with a Bachelor’s degree is in the<br />

$40,000 range to start.<br />

<strong>In</strong>strument Production Worker<br />

MENC: <strong>The</strong> National Association for Music <strong>Education</strong><br />

MASTER d<br />

Different skills are required for the manufacture of different instruments. <strong>The</strong>re is a need in all phases, however, for tool and die<br />

makers, assemblers, screw machine operators, buffers, sanders, and tuners. Manufacturers of brass and some woodwind instruments<br />

have positions for die casters, solderers, engravers, lacquerers, platers, valve makers, and others skilled in assembling various elements<br />

as the instruments near completion.<br />

<strong>The</strong> newer instruments, such as synthesizers, require the talents of engineers who understand microcircuitry and computer technology.<br />

Since electronic instruments contain chips to handle a variety of functions, engineers must understand not only the functions<br />

of the components but their musical potential as well. (See the section on Design Engineers.)


MASTER #1<br />

Pianos, despite changes in style and appearance, are basically the same instruments they have always been. Modern production<br />

methods may be used to manufacture metal interior pieces and for primary woodworking, veneering, and mill operations, but the<br />

final product is the result of handcrafting and skilled artisanship.<br />

Likewise, there are few shortcuts in the manufacture of quality guitars, violins, and other stringed instruments. Highly refined woodworking<br />

skills are necessary for the production of a good stringed instrument and its decorative carving or inlay.<br />

Among traditional musical instruments, drums have perhaps benefited most from the development of new materials. Plastics have<br />

replaced animal skins as drumheads and are widely used for the bodies. <strong>The</strong> finished drum, however, still requires handwork. Skilled<br />

craftsmanship is necessary for gluing joints, centering the head, trimming, sanding, and tuning. <strong>The</strong> final assembly of any instrument,<br />

in fact, is reserved for the best trained and most highly skilled members of the production staff.<br />

After completion, each instrument is evaluated by a tester before it leaves the plant. Testers must be musicians as well as craftsmen,<br />

familiar with the instrument and its musical capabilities and able to make minor adjustments or pinpoint problems for adjustment<br />

by others on the production line.<br />

While some production functions can be handled by a person without musical training, knowing how to play the instrument is an<br />

important asset. According to one manufacturer, knowing how to play an instrument might be compared to having a college degree<br />

in another field. <strong>In</strong> many instances it will be helpful in progressing to a more skilled, better paying job.<br />

If you are interested in a career in musical instrument manufacturing, you can find job opportunities around the United States. <strong>The</strong><br />

supply industries, those making cast-iron plates, actions, keyboards, hardware, tuning pins, strings, and mouthpieces are generally<br />

located near the manufacturing site.<br />

For a career in instrument manufacturing, you must meet age requirements of various states as well as labor and insurance laws. You<br />

do not need any basic skills for a beginning job other than the ability to learn, since most manufacturers have on-the-job training<br />

programs. Some firms also have apprenticeship programs for the more skilled craft jobs. Salaries vary widely according to the wage<br />

and salary scale of each industry.<br />

<strong>In</strong>ventor<br />

Another possibility for a career in instrument manufacturing lies in design and development. Often, specialists in other fields, such<br />

as electronics and engineering, computer software, or music performance, have created new instruments that have led to the development<br />

of new industries.<br />

<strong>In</strong>fluential musical instrument inventors have included John Philip Sousa, sousaphone; Laurens Hammond, electric organ; Harold<br />

Rhodes, electric piano; Robert Moog and RCA engineers Harry Olson and Herbert Belar, synthesizer; and John Chowning of<br />

Stanford University, digital synthesizer. Hundreds of others have made refinements in basic instruments or created accessory items,<br />

amplification equipment, and adapters that have broadened the capabilities of instruments or have made them easier to play.<br />

Recording Engineer or Mixer<br />

<strong>The</strong> engineer sets up microphones and operates equipment necessary to record the session. <strong>The</strong> producer may give presession<br />

instructions to the engineer, including a studio floor plan showing instrumental groupings, microphone placement, and the acoustical<br />

baffles to be used. <strong>The</strong> engineer is concerned with five areas: musical range, rhythm, variety, dynamics, and spectral control.<br />

<strong>The</strong> engineer must be able to compensate for studio limitations, the recording medium, and reproduction equipment.<br />

Salaries in this field can vary widely, depending especially on the size and success of the studio. Since engineering is one of the most<br />

popular career areas in recording, studios are extremely selective in hiring. To prepare yourself, enroll in a college that offers specific<br />

courses in sound engineering, learn to operate all technical machines, read the trade magazines, and visit recording studios. Try to<br />

get a studio job to learn more about the capabilities of the equipment.


MENC: <strong>The</strong> National Association for Music <strong>Education</strong><br />

Glossary<br />

Analog: <strong>In</strong> sound, the method of recording and transmitting sound that was used until a few years ago. It involves<br />

transforming the changes in sound intensity directly into changes in another medium (and back again). For example,<br />

a phonograph record contains grooves that vary in width and depth according to the sounds they represent, so a needle<br />

in a spinning record’s groove vibrates in a way that can, with amplification, give a recognizable musical sound. A<br />

magnetic analog tape (like a cassette) contains particles of material that are magnetized more or less strongly—like<br />

the record groove’s higher or lower depth—in a way that can be amplified, converted to vibrations in the air by a<br />

transducer, and heard as a musical sound.<br />

Cardioid: A type of microphone that exhibits a heart-shaped pattern of sensitivity. <strong>In</strong> a cardioid microphone, the<br />

area behind the microphone (the “notch” at the top of a heart shape) picks up very little sound; the sides and front<br />

are quite sensitive.<br />

Chorusing: A type of sound effects processing that makes a single voice sound or instrument sound like a chorus. It<br />

is done by making copies of the sound and combining them back with the original signal—but a little later.<br />

Digital: Refers to the recording of sound not as an analog trace (such as the peaks and valleys of a phonograph<br />

record) but as a series of binary digits (numbers in a counting system that use only 0 and 1). A digital recording of<br />

the loudness of a sound that starts piano and increases to forte, for example, look like a smooth line going up but<br />

would be recorded as a series of numbers, each larger than the one before.<br />

MASTER e<br />

Distortion: “Errors” introduced in the recording or transmission of sound. <strong>The</strong>y are usually unwanted errors that lead<br />

to a lack of clarity in the sound, and engineers have designed devices such as limiters to avoid distortion. Some styles<br />

of rock, however, intentionally use more or less controlled distortion for musical and dramatic effect.<br />

Equalizer: A device that can be used to alter the relative strength of various frequencies in a sound. <strong>In</strong> its simplest<br />

form, an equalizer can be the device controlled by the “tone” knob on a radio. More sophisticated equalizers are generally<br />

“graphic equalizers,” which have one control for the relative strength every one of several fixed frequency<br />

ranges, or “parametric equalizers,” in which both the strength of a range and the frequency of that range are subject<br />

to control.<br />

Headroom: <strong>The</strong> extent to which a recorder can accept strong signals. If the signal being recorded exceeds the headroom,<br />

overload distortion results.<br />

Layering: <strong>The</strong> process of combining several tracks to produce a complete recording. <strong>The</strong> musicians providing individual<br />

tracks can, with this technique, work on a recording “together”—but on separate days. It is best done with a<br />

recorder that offers many tracks (standard for professional studios is 24 tracks), but can be done with only two tracks<br />

by recording track a, mixing the recording from a with a new signal on to track b, mixing that combined recording<br />

with a new signal back onto track a, and so on.<br />

Limiting: <strong>The</strong> setting of a limit on the intensity of a signal. It is usually done so that the signal does not exceed the<br />

headroom of a recorder.<br />

Mixing: <strong>The</strong> process of combining the signals from different sound sources to achieve a well-balanced final sound. It<br />

can be done for a live performance that must be amplified or for a recording.


MASTER #1<br />

MIDI: An acronym for Musical <strong>In</strong>strument Digital <strong>In</strong>terface. It was developed as a way to allow electronic instruments<br />

to communicate with one another by means of a “code” of digital numbers representing aspects of a musical<br />

performance. A signal in MIDI “code” might say, for example, that a middle C is turned on with an intensity of<br />

100 (on a scale of 1 to 128), and then the pitch is “bent” up by 40 percent, and then turned off. MIDI has<br />

become especially useful with computer programs that store these signals in much the same way that a word processing<br />

program stores the letters typed on a computer keyboard.<br />

Noise: This can simply mean unwanted sound—such as noise that someone makes in the next room when you<br />

are trying to record a song. It has a technical meaning, too; sound that contains all frequencies (rather than the<br />

few overtones found in pitched sounds).<br />

Noise reduction: All transducers, recorders, or other devices used to store and reproduce sound introduce some<br />

noise. This is particularly a problem with analog tape recorders, so a variety of noise reduction techniques have<br />

been developed to minimize noise. A series of techniques labeled Dolby A, Dolby B, Dolby C, and Dolby S are<br />

used on many recorders, as is a technique known as DBX.<br />

Omnidirectional: A type of microphone that picks up sound equally from all directions.<br />

Panning: <strong>The</strong> process of distributing a signal between two stereo tracks in the mixing process. A single piano<br />

note, for example, could have 50 percent of its signal to the left and 50 percent to the right, making it sound as<br />

though the piano player was sitting in the middle of the sound field. By changing the panning to 10 percent left<br />

and 90 percent right, however, a studio engineer can make it sound like the piano player just picked up the piano<br />

and moved it to the right.<br />

Patch: An electrical circuit set up to route a signal, especially one set up by means of “patch cords.”<br />

Reverberation: <strong>The</strong> quality of echoes in a room. All rooms (except for specially-built anechoic chambers) have<br />

some reverberation; that of a small room with a lot of cloth furniture is relatively minimal; that of a large, stone<br />

cathedral is almost enough to overwhelm sounds produced in the room. Because of its importance in coloring the<br />

way we hear sounds, recording engineers will often add reverberation by means of electronic devices.<br />

Sampling: <strong>The</strong> process of taking a digital sample—a sort of audio snapshot—of a sound. <strong>The</strong> sample can be stored<br />

in a computer’s memory and played back (in its original form or altered) at will.<br />

Track: One “line” of information that goes into a recording. Often, a track is the recording of one instrument<br />

that will be combined with other instrument parts in layering the final mix.<br />

Transducer: A device that changes sound to or from another medium—such as electricity. A microphone is a<br />

transducer, for example, that changes sound waves to waves of variation in an electrical signal. A speaker does the<br />

reverse, changing electrical variations into the mechanical vibration of air that is sound. A speaker can even<br />

function as a microphone—and some microphones can function as speakers (but don’t try the experiment unless<br />

you know what you’re doing or don’t mind destroying your microphone).<br />

Transient: A part of a sound that changes quickly in loudness and often in frequency content—especially, the<br />

first 1/2 of a second or so of a sound’s “envelope.”

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