colour chronicle-jan09.indd - Clariant

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6 textile Alkali-scheme Fixation formula Suitable Drimaren Soda – formula K – HF NaOH + Silicate K – HF and CL NaOH + Soda K – HF and CL Soda formula Soda formula has long bath stability even at temperature upto 30 – 35°C. Are mostly used for heavy material due to long fi xation (better penetration). Give the impression of better levelness. Easy wash-off, no silicate. NaOH + Silicate NaOH + Silicate, in some cases, has even longer bath stability than soda-formula and are also stable at higher temperature of 30 – 35°C. Fixation time around half of the sodaformula. The wash-off has to be very well monitored, beginning with cold water, to remove the silicate. colour chronicle 1 | 2009 Dyeing on PES/PAN Fibers Dyeing on PES/PAN depends on the material but we can try to give you a general process for this blend on knit goods by exhaustion. There are three kinds of process. 1. Two Bath Process with Carrier at 108°C This method is appropriate; if HT equipment is not available or if the dyebath cannot be brought to the boil, as a result there is no assurance of satisfactory shade buildup, particularly with dark shades such as black and navy. in the case of deep dyeings since the exhaustion of the cationic dye from the bath is retarded by the large amounts of carrier (retarding effect). Pre-dyeing the PES component has the advantage that the coloration of the PAC component by the Foron dye can be controlled. 1st bath: Dyeing the PES component Dyebath additions 2 – 6 ml/l Dilatin POE liquid 2 g/l ammonium sulphate pH – 5 using formic acid CL and HF dyes requires less silicate than normal Vinyl Sulphone dyes and about half the amount of silicate. NaOH + Soda NaOH + Soda has shortest bath stability and highest exhaustion of the bath due to substantivity of the individual dyestuff. This alkali – formula is very sensitive to temperature. Should only be used at a constant temperature of around 20 – 25°C. Fixation time is the shortest. Easy wash-off. Tailing Is caused by hydrolysis and difference in substantivity of the dyes. During hydrolysis the dye gets unstable and is reacting with the – OH group. Can only be controlled by alkali-scheme, temperature and time of the bath turnover. Substantivity is property of the selected dyes, individually. Dyeing Programme 2nd bath: Dyeing the PAC component Dyebath additions. 0.5 g/l sodium acetate pH 4.5 using acetic acid 0.5 – 2% Retargal ANI liquid 0.1 – 0.5 ml/l Ekaline FI liquid Dyeing programme Pad-Batch with Drimaren Parameters for Perfect Dyeing Dye selection. Alkali – formula. Temperature constant at 25°C (CDG has an advantage, dyestuff tank does not have to be cooled down and no urea). Dosing pumps; 1 : 4 alkali / dye. Most dye manufacturers have made their recipes after this dosing system. Pick-up 75 – 85 %, woven material, 110 – 120 %, knitwear. Bath content 20-30 litre. From going into the dyebath until the padding mangle at no more than 1.5 sec, else higher risk for exhaustion of the bath. Always use a wetting agent, like Hostapal UH. CN liq. The dye bath should only contain one roller at the bottom. With more rollers on top of each other, the pick-up cannot be controlled from side to side. Speed should not extend more than 50 m/min. The batching temperature has to be constant at 30°C.
2. One-Bath Two-Stage Process at 108°C Intead of the two-bath process, the more economical one-bath two stage process, with pre-dyeing of the acrylic fi ber, can be adopted. With this method there is no unwelcome retarding effect by the carrier on the basic dye. Dyebath additions for PAC. 0.5 g/l sodium acetate pH 4.5 acetic acid 0.5 – 2 % Retargal ANI liquid 0.1 – 0.5 ml/l Ekaline FI liquid X % Cationic dyes For PES. 2 – 6 ml/l Dilatin POE liquid Y % Foron dyes Dyeing Programme Sulphur Black v/s Reactive Black Light Fastness Sulphur black rates 5 on the grey scale after 40 hours xenon. Reactive black rates only 3.0. Perspiration Light Fastness Test is based on duplicating exposure to light combined with perspiration. Sulphur black rates 5.0 after 20 hrs. Reactive black shows break at 2 hrs with a rating of 2.5 after 20 hrs. Dyeing Cycles Sulphur black can be dyed in 3.5 – 4 hours vs typical reactive time of 6 – 7 hours. Sulphur cycles require much less salt (20 – 30 gm/l) vs reactive where 100 – 120 gm/l is needed. Wash Fastness Sulphur black gives practicaly no stain in the AATCC 2a wash test. As a result of this, sulphur black can be used in “color blocking” with pastel shades. Reactive black would require a fi x to obtain the best results. 3. One-Bath Process at 108°C Dyebath additions. 1 – 2 ml/l Dilatin POE liquid 0.3 – 1 ml/l Thiotan R paste 0.5 g/l sodium acetate pH 4.5 acetic acid X % Cationic dyes Y % Foron dyes Dyeing Programme Crock fastness Wet crock fastness for shades of equal depth is about equal. Most reactive black shades are much lighter in depth, giving slightly better crock fastness. Reworks and overdyes Sulphur blacks are easily reworked using the original process without stripping. Reactive blacks require a caustic/ hydro strip and full formula add. Sulphur black can be used to overdye many reactive colors without having to strip fi rst. Tendering Tendering is minimized by controlling the fabric pH. The fabric must have an alkaline pH from the dye machine prior to fi nishing. After fi nishing the pH must also be above 8.0. textile Lot Dyehouse Finished Original Aged %loss pH pH strength Strength 1 9.5 8 89 80 10% 2 9.8 7.4 90 81 10% 3 9.3 8 87 85 2% 4 9.8 8.1 97 94 3% 5 8.3 102 87 14% 6 8.4 104 95 9% 7 8.5 107 96 10% 8 9 107 93 13% 9 7.4 106 87 18% Summary Good fastness in repetitive domestic washing. Excellent light and perspiration light fastness. Minimal water use and low salt use. Dyebath re-cycling is possible. A much deeper, richer shade of black. Easier re-processing and over-dyeing possibilities. Shorter cycles. colour chronicle 1 | 2009 7
Page 1 and 2: TLP Division Colour Chronicle A Cla
Page 3 and 4: Inputs from the Industry on the Cur
Page 5: Dyebath Composition x % Cationic dy
Page 9 and 10: Hydroperm ECO liq Hydrophilizing Ag
Page 11: Antistatic behaviour according to C
Page 14 and 15: 14 leather colour chronicle 1 | 200
Page 17 and 18: Cartabond Why insolubilizers are us
Page 19 and 20: A fast reacting insolubilizer provi
Page 21: Summary Coating Binder Cartabond Ca
Page 24 and 25: 24 new arrivals colour chronicle 1
Page 26 and 27: 26 inside views high value (water,

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