colour chronicle-jan09.indd - Clariant

TLP Division
Colour Chronicle
A Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited Publication
for the Textile, Leather, Paper & allied processing industries
30 th year of publication
Number 1 | 2009

colour chronicle 1 | 2009
Contents
q&a 3
Inputs from the Industry on the Current Scenario
textile 4
Cationic Dyeable – PES Fibers
PA and Cationic Dyeable – PES Fibers
Dyeing on PES/PAN Fibers
Pad-Batch with Drimaren
Sulphur Black v/s Reactive Black
Moisture Management
leather 13
Clariant´s Feel Additives
paper 17
Cartabond
GOTS approved list 23
new arrivals 23
inside views 25
gleanings from press 27
2 colour chronicle 1 | 2009

Inputs from the Industry
on the Current Scenario
Do you think the Textile Industry today is facing a
global recession?
Yes defi nitely. Indian textile industry is facing the
effects of global recession. Textile industry is not
insulated from global recession because of shrinking
of demand from US and Europe. Several new units
have been set up in India in the past few years
expecting the demand from US and Europe will
continue to grow and now we are facing shrinkage
in demand. Shrinking of liquidity is also responsible
for shrinking of demand in textile.
This shrinkage of demand is expected to continue for
intermediate period since the supply and distribution
pipeline is fl ush with stocks. Only after liquidation
of this pipeline stock, is the demand expected to
increase.
How do you assess the threat from China?
Indian rupee has depreciated in last six months where
as Chinese currency has appreciated by nearly 8 to
10%. India will be very much competitive in future.
The deciding factors will be on time delivery and
quality of the products. Costs are going up in China.
In the last few months many production units have
closed down or are running in reduced activity
due to environment factors and power availability.
We will be very much cost competitive but China
will dominate the textile world as they have huge
production capacities and can achieve quick
turnaround of high volumes.
What innovations do you plan with reference
to branding, retailing, new products and new
fi nishes?
Raymond Zambaiti is a B2B business and our
emphasis is on becoming a strong player in the
industry. New product development is a continuous
process. We have a development team which is
working continuously on new products and new
fi nishes.
We are also working closely with our customers
on their specifi c needs and new ideas. We have also
expanded into Bottom Weights to better utilize our
production capacity.
How do you envisage the growth of brands and its
impact on textile business?
The growth of Brands has been phenomenal in the
last ten years. Till 2007 most of the brands have
grown by 20 to 40 % year after year. Number of
brands have not increased much, but the existing
brands have expanded. Capacities got built up in the
past 5 to 6 years based on the projected domestic
demand as well as growth in garment exports. In the
current scenario, I personally believe the domestic
brands will have a more “realistic growth” as
compared to the highs of the previous years.
What are your plans to expand your international
textiles and retail business?
Raymond Zambaiti is a Joint Venture between
Raymond and Gruppo Zambaiti form Italy. About
40% of our production is currently exported. Going
forward considering the high cost of production in
Italy compared to India, we expect our JV partners
to source more fabrics from our unit in India.
How do you see the role of dyes and chemical
manufacturing companies (like Clariant) in future
to help the textile industry?
We have a lot of pressure on cost so we expect that
chemical suppliers should come with innovative
solutions / processes / products to make us cost
competitive. Chemical suppliers should come
out with speciality products, which offer better
value for money in terms of perceivable benefi ts
to the consumer. The challenge for the chemical
companies is to come up with products and processes
that are more sensitive to environmental issues as
consumers become more and more environment
conscious. Another challenge is to minimize energy
consumption for which, the chemical suppliers have
to come up with innovative solutions.
Your message to the textile industry?
It is going to be a tough time for the textile
industry. In this period we have to focus on internal
improvement in all areas and weather the period
out. We will have to learn to work under a tight cost
control regime but at the same time look at value
addition at all levels.
Mr. V. Vasudevan,
Works Director,
Raymond Zambaiti.
q&a
He has 30 years of industrial
experience, with some of the
leading companies in India
like, Madura Coats Ltd.,
Vardhman, India Polycot and
Grasim Industries.
colour chronicle 1 | 2009 3

4
textile
colour chronicle 1 | 2009
Dyeing Methods and Dye Selection for Blends of:
Cationic Dyeable – PES Fibers
Cationic dyeable PES / CV is dyeable with same process
as PAC / CV
I – One Bath Method with Cationic/
Indosol Dyes
This method is only recommended for pastel and
medium shades.
Thiotan R paste prevents precipitation between
the cationic dyes and anionic Indosol dyes, which
may occur depending on the dyes and concentrations
used.
Standard Recipe
It is essential to set the dye bath in the following
order:
Liquor ratio: 1/10
a) 1 g/l Thiotan R paste
0.5 g/l sodium acetate
Run 5 – 10 min
b) x % Cationic dye
Run 5 – 10 min
c) y % Indosol dye
6 g/l sodium sulphate anhydrous
d) Adjust pH to 4.5 – 5 with acetic acid.
Dyeing Methods and Dye Selection for Blends of:
PA and Cationic Dyeable – PES
I. One bath method for pale to medium
shade depths
Dyeing Programme Dyebath Composition
Temperature (°C)
120
110
100
90
80
70
60
50
40
0 50 100 150
Time (min)
Dyeing Programme
Temperature (°C)
120
110
100
90
80
70
60
50
40
a - b - c - d
30
0 20 40 60 80
Time (min)
100 120 140 160
II – One Bath Method with Foron RD/
Indosol Dyes
Same process as with PES normal but with 120°C
fi xation temperature.
For these two processes, the dyeing will be fi xed
with Indosol E – 50.
For pale shade we recommend Optifi x WEI liq.
III – Two Bath Method with Cationic/
Drimaren K or CL and HF Dyes
For better brilliance and high wetfastness properties
we can dye this blend with two baths – cationic
dyes/cold reactive.
1. Dyeing the PES anionic component with cationic
dyes in the 1st bath.
0.5 – 1 g/l Thiotan R paste
6 g/l sodium sulphate
0.5 g/l sodium acetate
x % Cationic dye
y % Nylosan dye
pH 4.5 acetic acid 80%

Dyebath Composition
x % Cationic dye
0.5 – 1 g/l Thiotan R paste
6 g/l sodium sulphate anhydrous
0.5 g/l sodium acetate
pH = 4.5 acetic acid 80%
Dyeing Programme
Temperature (°C)
120
110
100
90
80
70
60
50
Fibers
0 30 60 90 120
Time (min)
2. Overdyeing the viscose component with
Drimaren dyes in the 2nd bath.
Classic Drimaren dyeing with Thiotan R paste.
II. One bath two stage method for
medium to dark shade depths
Dyeing Programme
Temperature (°C)
120
110
100
90
80
70
60
50
40
Cationic Dye
0 50 100 150
Time (min)
3. After treatment
Rinse well
Treat at 70 – 80°C for 15 min with,
1 g/l Lyocol OI liq
pH = 9 using soda ash
Rinse.
4. Special treatment for very high wetfastness
properties.
Aftertreat with Indosol E-50.
Same Method in Reverse Order
Although it is economical to carry out this method
in the reverse order, i.e. fi rst dyeing the viscose
component with Drimaren dye and then the PAC
with cationic dye, the dyed viscose component is
more heavily stained by the basic dyes while the
PAC is being overdyed (mordant effect), than when
dyeing according to the conventional method. For
this reason the reverse method can only be carried
out with especially selected basic dyes.
In the interest of reliability and reproducibility
we would not recommend this procedure.
Dye Bath Composition
1 g/l Thiotan R paste
6 g/l sodium sulphate
0.5 g/l sodium acetate
x % Cationic dye
y % Nylosan dye
pH 4.5 acetic acid 80%
Softening
If softening is not carried out simultaneously in
the dye liquor or brightening bath (this would be
advantageous), the goods are treated in a separate
bath with:
0.7 – 1.5 % Ceranine PNL liquid
At pH 5 – 6 for 15 min at 45°C
textile
colour chronicle 1 | 2009 5

6
textile
Alkali-scheme
Fixation formula Suitable Drimaren
Soda – formula K – HF
NaOH + Silicate K – HF and CL
NaOH + Soda K – HF and CL
Soda formula
Soda formula has long bath stability even
at temperature upto 30 – 35°C.
Are mostly used for heavy material due
to long fi xation (better penetration).
Give the impression of better
levelness.
Easy wash-off, no silicate.
NaOH + Silicate
NaOH + Silicate, in some cases, has even
longer bath stability than soda-formula and
are also stable at higher temperature of 30
– 35°C.
Fixation time around half of the sodaformula.
The wash-off has to be very well
monitored, beginning with cold water,
to remove the silicate.
colour chronicle 1 | 2009
Dyeing on PES/PAN Fibers
Dyeing on PES/PAN depends on the material
but we can try to give you a general process
for this blend on knit goods by exhaustion.
There are three kinds of process.
1. Two Bath Process with Carrier at 108°C
This method is appropriate;
if HT equipment is not available or if the
dyebath cannot be brought to the boil,
as a result there is no assurance of
satisfactory shade buildup, particularly with
dark shades such as black and navy.
in the case of deep dyeings since the
exhaustion of the cationic dye from the bath
is retarded by the large amounts of carrier
(retarding effect).
Pre-dyeing the PES component has the advantage
that the coloration of the PAC component by the
Foron dye can be controlled.
1st bath: Dyeing the PES component
Dyebath additions
2 – 6 ml/l Dilatin POE liquid
2 g/l ammonium sulphate
pH – 5 using formic acid
CL and HF dyes requires less silicate
than normal Vinyl Sulphone dyes and
about half the amount of silicate.
NaOH + Soda
NaOH + Soda has shortest bath stability
and highest exhaustion of the bath due to
substantivity of the individual dyestuff.
This alkali – formula is very sensitive
to temperature. Should only be used
at a constant temperature of around
20 – 25°C.
Fixation time is the shortest.
Easy wash-off.
Tailing
Is caused by hydrolysis and difference
in substantivity of the dyes.
During hydrolysis the dye gets unstable
and is reacting with the – OH group.
Can only be controlled by alkali-scheme,
temperature and time of the bath turnover.
Substantivity is property of the selected
dyes, individually.
Dyeing Programme
2nd bath: Dyeing the PAC component
Dyebath additions.
0.5 g/l sodium acetate
pH 4.5 using acetic acid
0.5 – 2% Retargal ANI liquid
0.1 – 0.5 ml/l Ekaline FI liquid
Dyeing programme
Pad-Batch with Drimaren Parameters for Perfect Dyeing
Dye selection.
Alkali – formula.
Temperature constant at 25°C (CDG
has an advantage, dyestuff tank does not
have to be cooled down and no urea).
Dosing pumps; 1 : 4 alkali / dye. Most
dye manufacturers have made their
recipes after this dosing system.
Pick-up 75 – 85 %, woven material,
110 – 120 %, knitwear.
Bath content 20-30 litre.
From going into the dyebath until the
padding mangle at no more than 1.5
sec, else higher risk for exhaustion of
the bath. Always use a wetting agent,
like Hostapal UH. CN liq.
The dye bath should only contain one
roller at the bottom. With more rollers
on top of each other, the pick-up cannot
be controlled from side to side.
Speed should not extend more than
50 m/min.
The batching temperature has to be
constant at 30°C.

2. One-Bath Two-Stage Process at 108°C
Intead of the two-bath process, the more economical
one-bath two stage process, with pre-dyeing of the
acrylic fi ber, can be adopted.
With this method there is no unwelcome retarding
effect by the carrier on the basic dye.
Dyebath additions for PAC.
0.5 g/l sodium acetate
pH 4.5 acetic acid
0.5 – 2 % Retargal ANI liquid
0.1 – 0.5 ml/l Ekaline FI liquid
X % Cationic dyes
For PES.
2 – 6 ml/l Dilatin POE liquid
Y % Foron dyes
Dyeing Programme
Sulphur Black v/s Reactive Black
Light Fastness
Sulphur black rates 5 on the grey
scale after 40 hours xenon.
Reactive black rates only 3.0.
Perspiration Light Fastness
Test is based on duplicating exposure
to light combined with perspiration.
Sulphur black rates 5.0 after 20 hrs.
Reactive black shows break at 2 hrs
with a rating of 2.5 after 20 hrs.
Dyeing Cycles
Sulphur black can be dyed in
3.5 – 4 hours vs typical reactive time
of 6 – 7 hours.
Sulphur cycles require much less
salt (20 – 30 gm/l) vs reactive where
100 – 120 gm/l is needed.
Wash Fastness
Sulphur black gives practicaly no stain
in the AATCC 2a wash test. As a result
of this, sulphur black can be used in
“color blocking” with pastel shades.
Reactive black would require a fi x
to obtain the best results.
3. One-Bath Process at 108°C
Dyebath additions.
1 – 2 ml/l Dilatin POE liquid
0.3 – 1 ml/l Thiotan R paste
0.5 g/l sodium acetate
pH 4.5 acetic acid
X % Cationic dyes
Y % Foron dyes
Dyeing Programme
Crock fastness
Wet crock fastness for shades of
equal depth is about equal.
Most reactive black shades are much
lighter in depth, giving slightly better
crock fastness.
Reworks and overdyes
Sulphur blacks are easily reworked
using the original process without
stripping.
Reactive blacks require a caustic/
hydro strip and full formula add.
Sulphur black can be used to overdye
many reactive colors without having
to strip fi rst.
Tendering
Tendering is minimized by
controlling the fabric pH.
The fabric must have an alkaline
pH from the dye machine prior to
fi nishing.
After fi nishing the pH must also be
above 8.0.
textile
Lot Dyehouse Finished Original Aged %loss
pH pH strength Strength
1 9.5 8 89 80 10%
2 9.8 7.4 90 81 10%
3 9.3 8 87 85 2%
4 9.8 8.1 97 94 3%
5 8.3 102 87 14%
6 8.4 104 95 9%
7 8.5 107 96 10%
8 9 107 93 13%
9 7.4 106 87 18%
Summary
Good fastness in repetitive domestic
washing.
Excellent light and perspiration light
fastness.
Minimal water use and low salt use.
Dyebath re-cycling is possible.
A much deeper, richer shade of black.
Easier re-processing and over-dyeing
possibilities.
Shorter cycles.
colour chronicle 1 | 2009 7

textile
8 colour chronicle 1 | 2009
Moisture Management
Complete removal of moisture combined with
an accelerated spreading and evaporation rate
results in a rapidly drying textile and thus increased
wearing comfort with Clariant’s products :
PA : Hydroperm RPU (best wash permanence)
Hydroperm ECO (low to medium wash
permanence)
Cotton : Hydroperm RPU (best wash permanence)
Hydroperm ECO (low to medium wash
permanence)
PES : Hydroperm SRHA (medium to high wash
permanence)
Remark: Hydoperm ECO is the best
product for improving vertical wicking on CO and PA.
Hydrophilic softener to be used with these
products :
Solusoft TOW Solusoft SE1
Hydroperm HV Dilasoft TF
Hydroperm RPU
(a) Moisture management on PA and Cotton
Moisture Management on polyamide with
Hydroperm RPU
Waterdrop absorbency
300
250
200
150
100
50
0
Hydroperm
RPU
Conventional
hydrophilic finish
Conventional
finish
Original 10 times washed at 40°C
Absorbing time in seconds
Vertical Wicking
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
Hydroperm
RPU
Conventional
hydrophilic finish
Conventional
finish
Original 10 times washed at 40°C
Wicking height after 5 min.
Washing conditions : ISO 6330 / 40°C gentle program
tumble dried.
b) Surface evaporation test (Clariant method)
100
90
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
Start 10 20 30 40 50
Drying time in minutes
100
90
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
Original finish
Conventional
hydrophilic finish
10 times washed at 40°C
Finished with
Hydroperm RPU
Testing conditions: 20°C, 65% air humidity
Conventional finish
Finished with
Hydroperm RPU
Testing conditions: 20°C, 65% air humidity
Conventional finish
Conventional
hydrophilic finish
0
Start 10 20 30 40 50
Drying time in minutes
Washing conditions : ISO 6330 / 40°C gentle program
tumble dried
Wicking height in mm
Residual moisture in %
Residual moisture in %

Hydroperm ECO liq
Hydrophilizing Agent for Moisture
Management Finishes
(a) Properties
Weakly cationic.
Chemical character : Aliphatic polyether amide
solution.
Improves perfectly wicking and surface
evaporation properties.
Supports the transport of moisture in an ideal
manner.
Causes no water drop marks.
Imparts soft handle to the goods.
Does not impair the degree of whiteness on
optically brightened goods.
First choice on cotton if wicking is the main
point.
Suitable for exhaust application on polyamide
and PA-blends.
For woven and knitwear.
Not suitable together with resins and their
catalysts.
Not recommended for polyester and their
blends.
(b) Wicking height
100 % cotton knitwear (Interlock)
9
8.5
8
7.5
7
6.5
6
Wicking height after 3 min according to M&S P136
Original After 20x40°C launderings
Unfinished 30 g/l Hydroperm ECO
30 g/l Competitor
product
30 g/l Hydroperm ECO +
15 g/l Solusoft TOW
Washing conditions ISO 6330 / 40°C gentle program
tumble dried.
Wicking height in cm
(c) Moisture management on PA and PA/Lycra:
Example recipes:
PA moisture management
30 g/l Hydroperm ECO liq
15 g/l Solusoft TOW liq c
Pad and dry at 120-140°C.
PA moisture management – best wash permanency
30 – 40 g/l Hydroperm RPU liq
15 g/l Solusoft TOW liq c
Pad, dry and cure at 170°C for 15 sec.
Permanent freshness and moisture transportation
on PA and PA/Lycra
40 g/l Hydroperm RPU liq
10 g/l Solusoft TOW liq c
13 g/l Sanitized T 27-22 Silver
Pad, pick up 75 %, pH 5.5 with acetic acid.
Dry and cure at 170°C for 15 sec.
(d) Moisture Management on Cotton
Guide recipes for cotton :
Hydrophilic fi nish
20 – 40 g/l Hydroperm ECO liq
5 – 15 g/l Solusoft TOW liq c
Pick up 70 %.
Pad and dry at 120°C – 130°C.
Hydrophilic Easy-Care fi nish
40 – 60 g/l Arkofi x NES liq c
10-15 g/l Catalyst NKC liq
20 – 40 g/l Hydroperm RPU liq
5 – 15 g/l Solusoft TOW liq c
Pad, pick up 70 %.
Dry and cure at 170°C for 20 sec.
Permanent Freshness, Easy-Care and Moisture
Transportation on Cotton
50 g/l Arkofi x NES liq c
13 g/l Catalyst NKC liq
40 g/l Hydroperm RPU liq
5 g/l Hydroperm HV liq
10 g/l Solusoft TOW liq c
8 – 10 g/l Sanitized T99 – 19
Pad, pick up 75 %.
Dry and cure at 170°C for 15 sec.
textile
colour chronicle 1 | 2009 9

10
textile
colour chronicle 1 | 2009
Permanent Freshness and Moisture Transportation
on Cotton
30 g/l Hydroperm RPU liq
10 g/l Solusoft TOW liq c
4 – 5 g/l Sanitized T27-22 Silver
Pad, pick up 75 %.
Dry and cure at 160°C for 20 sec.
effective curing temperature.
(e) Hydroperm ECO liquid on Polyamide by
Exhaustion
Waterdrop Test on Polyamide
Application condition :
4 – 4.5 % Hydroperm ECO liq
pH : 4.5 – 5.5 using acetic acid
Temperature : 40°C
Time : 20 min
No rinsing, hydroextract and dry
Hydroperm SRHA
Soil Release / Hydrophilic / Antistatic
a) Main features
Hydroperm SRHA liq is a soil release and
hydrophilizing agent for woven and knitted synthetic
fi ber textiles, especially those made from polyester
fi bers and polyester/cellulosic fi ber blends. This
auxiliary overcomes the well known uncomfort of
synthetic fi bers.
b) Features
Improves durable moisture absorbency of
polyester fi bers.
Imparts soil and stain release properties.
Minimizes static build-up and adds comfort to
the garments.
Prevents soil re-deposition.
Inhibits greying of polyester-containing fabrics
during laundering.
Saves time and money because it can be added
directly to the dye-bath during high-temperature
dyeing.
Acts as a lubricant in the dyeing process,
improving piece-to-piece consistency.
c) Durable hydrophilic properties
1. unfi nished (PES fi ber naturally hydrophobic).
2. 5% (owf) Hydroperm SRHA liq.
3. 5% (owf) Hydroperm SRHA liq / 1x 40 °C.
4. 5% (owf) Hydroperm SRHA liq / 5x 40 °C.
5. 5% (owf) Hydroperm SRHA liq / 10x 40 °C.
After this Hydroperm SRHA treatment the
uncomfortable PES is transformed into a hydrophilic,
comfortable PES fi ber.
d) Absorbency (Wicking test)
Conventional PES fi nish
Original 5 x 40°C wash 10 x 40°C wash
Finished with 5 % (o.w.f.) Hydroperm SRHA liq
Original 5 x 40°C wash 10 x 40°C wash

Antistatic behaviour according to Cling test
5% Hydroperm
SRHA liq unfi nished
Soil release (dirty motor oil)
Unfinished
Original soiling with a after soiling, one
drop of dirty motor oil additional wash
5 x 40°C then soiling with after soiling, one
a drop of dirty motor oil additional wash
10 x 40°C then soiling with after soiling, one
a drop of dirty motor oil additional wash
Finished with 5 % (o.w.f.) Hydroperm SRHA liq
Original soiling with a after soiling, one
drop of dirty motor oil additional wash
5 x 40°C then soiling with after soiling, one
a drop of dirty motor oil additional wash
10 x 40°C then soiling with after soiling, one
a drop of dirty motor oil additional wash
Stains are removed faster and easier during
laundering.
Application of Hydroperm SRHA liq
The preferred method for applying Hydroperm
SRHA is during high temperature dyeing in the
disperse dye procedure. The product will exhaust
onto the fabric like a dyestuff.
4 – 7 % (o.w.f.) Hydroperm SRHA liq
0.5 – 1 % (o.w.f.) Eganal PS liq
1 g/l Opticid PB liq
x % Disperse Dyestuff
Example for pad application (wash durability is
higher by exhaust application)
15 – 25 g/l Hydroperm SRHA liq
10 – 15 g/l Solusoft SE1 liq (20%)
textile
colour chronicle 1 | 2009 11

Clariant’s Feel Additives
Clariant´s wide spread range of feel agents/
additives hands out very versatile tools to the
fi nishers and enables them to make customer´s
wishes and dreams come true. But it’s not only
the variety of feels alone, some of them are
developed to improve selected properties too.
Product Details
In order to visualise the possibilities and
characteristics of these products several tables and
fi gures are given below. Besides the water based
feel agents given here, some solvent based products
are shown as well.
Product SC Feel Comments
Aqueous Feel Additives
Melio Fettgriff SZ 25 dry, waxy very nice feel when added into dry mill, 1:100, the last 30 minutes of dry
druming, slightly cationic, therefore check compatibility when used in mixes
with anionic products, effective additive for cationic applications.
Melio Fettgriff TRA 24 slightly dry, very close to Fettgriff SZ, more elegant effect, slightly cationic, therefore
waxy check compatibility when used in mixes with anionic products.
Melio Ground P 20 strong stoppy, for nappa types, gives a very natural feel, Do not overdose.
waxy
Melio Ground PS 20 stoppy, waxy- close to Ground P, more elegant, very useful for kind all kind of soft leathers
greasy with a natural aspect and only thin finish films.
Melio Wax 180 14,5 fatty/waxy soft wax, used as antisticking and feel improving agent in base coats, used
also in aqueous top coats and feel applications.
Melio WF – 5213.B 12 slightly dry, for all kind of leathers except white and automotive (yellowing), slightly
waxy cationic, can be used as additive in cationic applications.
Melio WF – 5220 36 warm-waxy special additive for automotive leathers, eliminates squeaking, can reduce
soiling, feel also very attractive for all soft leathers, even with heavy layers.
Melio WF – 5226 27,5 silky, slippery improves abrasion resistance and rubbings, counter type to HM-183.
Melio WF – 5227 45 waxy increases abrasion resistance, not to be used with WF-5233 (can cause
white spots), dries white, hence cannot be used as single product for
oversprays.
Melio WF – 5230 20 silky, greasy, very attractive feel for all kind of leathers, normaly not used for automotive
natural (VOC), improves scratch resistance when used in patent leather imitation
top coats, increases the gloss.
Melio WF – 5238 50 silky, slippery succeeder of Melio WF-5226 conc., especially for automotive top coats,
improves physicals especially when used as overspray.
Melio WF – 5243 30 silky, creamy pleaseant creamy wet touch, for all nappa types.
Melio WF – 5244 7 stoppy main use as hydrophobing agent, most effective when not used together
with other (hydrophilic) products.
Aqueous/Organic Feel Additives:
Melio OF – 5215 14 oily, slippery for nappa types.
Melio OF – 5216 57 slippery, can be used aqueous or organic, very nice for garment and nappa types,
slightly waxy improves gloss.
Organic Feel Additives:
Melio Guard 5228.A 15 strong stoppy, very effective hydrophobing agent, feel can be modified with other organic
Nubuck oils:
dry dilutable feel agents.
Melio Oil PO – 230 100 silky special feel oil for nubuck leathers, can be thinnend with Melio E – 700/710.
Melio Oil PO – 232 100 strong grabby special feel oil for nubuck leathers, can be thinnend with Melio E – 700/710,
for leathers with a very intensive feel.
leather
colour chronicle 1 | 2009 13

14
leather
colour chronicle 1 | 2009
Product Categories
Considering technical and promotional parameters we categorized our feel agents into the following groups:
A – Categories: From Slippy to Stoppy
Slippery Stoppy
Slippery Sliding Silky/Velvet Waxy/Smooth Waxy/Stoppy Stoppy Specialities
Melio OF – 5216 Melio WF – 5230 Melio WF – 5220 Melio Fettgriff SZ Melio Ground PS Melio Ground P Melio WF – 5244
Melio WF – 5226 Melio WF – 5243 Melio Fettgriff TRA Melio Guard 5228.A
Melio WF – 5238 Melio WF – 5213.B Melio Oil PO – 230
Melio OF – 5215
Melio Wax 180
Melio WF – 5227
Melio Oil PO – 232
Some more details are shown in the table below. Please be aware of the fact that the perception of a feel and
its description is very subjective. Never the less we would like to give you this table as a map to help you
to fi nally reach your destination.
B – Categories: Detailed Feel Descriptions
dry waxy slippy oily greasy stoppy
Melio Fettgriff SZ xx xxx 0 0 0 x
Melio Fettgriff TRA x xxx 0 0 0 x
Melio Ground P 0 xxx 0 0 0 xxx
Melio Ground PS 0 xxx 0 x 0 xx
Melio Wax 180 0 xxx x x x 0
Melio WF-5213.B xx xx x 0 0 0
Melio WF-5220 0 xx xxx xx 0 0
Melio WF-5226 x 0 xxx 0 0 0
Melio WF-5227 xx xxx 0 0 0 x
Melio WF-5230 0 0 xxx xx xxx 0
Melio WF-5238 x 0 xxx 0 0 0
Melio WF-5243 0 x xxx xx x 0
Melio OF-5215 0 x xxx xxx 0 0
Melio OF-5216 0 xxx xxx xx 0 0
C – Categories: Suitability by Leather Articles
In another table we would like to show you the main fi elds of applications where the products can be used.
Please be aware of the special characteristics developed to cover special requirements.
Further details you have already seen in the short descriptions at the beginning.
auto- shoe sport garment fancy uphol- special
motive upper shoe goods stery characteristics
Melio Fettgriff SZ x x x x
Melio Fettgriff TRA x x x x
Melio Ground P x x x x
Melio Ground PS x x x x
Melio Wax 180 x x x x
Melio WF – 5213.B x x x x
Melio WF – 5220 x x x x x anti-squeaking
Melio WF – 5226 x x x x x
Melio WF – 5227 x x x x x abrasion/taber resistance
Melio WF – 5230 x x x x x
Melio WF – 5238 x x x x x x abrasion/scuff resistance
Melio WF – 5243 x x x x x
Melio OF – 5215 x x x x x
Melio OF – 5216 x x x x x x abrasion resistance

D – Categories: By Application
Besides the usage with water/solvent as feel coat, the feel agents can be used in the following fi nishing
systems (additionally light fastness and heat resistance are given):
Protein Aqualen Melio Melio Light Fastness Heat Resistance
top top EW-top N/ES-top 1:5 1:10 1:5 1:10
Melio Fettgriff SZ (x) 5 5 – 4 6 5 – 4
Melio Fettgriff TRA (x) 6 4 – 5 6 4 – 5
Melio Ground P x x 5 – 6 4 – 5 6 4 – 5
Melio Ground PS x x 6 4 – 5 6 5 – 4
Melio Wax 180 (x) x x 5 4 – 5 5 – 6 4 – 5
Melio WF – 5213.B (x) x x 6 4 – 5 6 5 – 4
Melio WF – 5220 x x 6 – 5 5 – 4 6 4 – 5
Melio WF – 5226 x x x 6 – 5 5 – 4 6 – 5 5 – 4
Melio WF – 5227 x x 6 – 5 4 – 5 6 – 5 5 – 4
Melio WF – 5230 x x x 5 – 6 4 – 5 6 – 5 5 – 4
Melio WF – 5238 x x x 6 5 6 6 – 5
Melio WF – 5243 (x) x x 5 – 6 4 5 4 – 5
Melio OF – 5215 (x) x x 6 5 – 4 6 5 – 4
Melio OF – 5216 (x) x x x 5 – 6 5 – 4 5 – 6 4 – 5
Melio Guard 5228.A (x) x 6 6 6 – 5 6
E – Categories: Specialities
For Nubuck leathers two special feel promoters are available:
dry waxy slippy oily greasy stoppy
Melio Oil PO – 230 xxx xx xxx 0 0 0
Melio Oil PO – 232 0 xxx 0 0 0 xxx
Both oils may be used as single products or in combination with other oils/waxes to improve the feel.
These two oils are not mixable with water.
The hydrophobing agents into Clariant´s additive range are shown in the tables below, following the same
discription order as shown for the feel additives above:
Feel
dry waxy slippy oily greasy stoppy
Melio WF – 5244 xxx xxx 0 0 0 xxx
Melio Guard 5228.A xxx x 0 0 0 xxx
Main Application
auto- shoe sport garment fancy uphol- special
motive upper shoe goods stery characteristics
Melio WF – 5244 x x x x x hydrophobing
Melio Guard 5228.A x x x x x hydrophobing
Main Use in following Systems:
Protein Aqualen Melio Melio Light Fastness Heat Resistance
top top EW-top N/ES-top 1:5 1:10 1:5 1:10
Melio WF – 5244 x x 6 – 5 4 – 5 6 4 – 5
Melio Guard 5228.A x x 6 – 5 5 – 4 6 – 5 5 – 4
leather
colour chronicle 1 | 2009 15

Cartabond
Why insolubilizers are useful for improving the runnability and print
quality of coated / uncoated paper on offset press
Reasons of Offset Printing Defects
– Easily released or free
fibers, filler, coating pigment
particles
– Dust from previous handling
(production, cutting)
– Wetting by fountain water
– Ink tackiness
– Pulling forces / printing nip
Offset Printing and Wet Picking
Water is adsorbed on the hydrophilic areas of the
printing plate and ink on the hydrophobic ones.
Ink and water are transferred from the printing
plate to the blanket and from the blanket to the
paper. The paper goes through several presses to
be printed by each color before drying.
Picking occurs when the ink fi lm is split between
the paper and the rubber blanket if the paper is
weakened by water addition on the previous
presses.
Printing nip
Next Press
Picking area
Fountain Water
Offset Printing
defects
Offset blanket
piling
Offset press
productivity
Printing Ink
Printing
Plate
Rubber
Blanket
Paper
Printing Defects Related to the Paper
Surface Strength
Printing Printing Influenced Uncoated
defect process by surface or coated
strength paper
Picking Offset, Dry / wet uncoated
letterpress
Coating Offset, Dry / wet coated
pick letterpress
Wet pick Offset Wet coated
(multicolour
press)
Piling Offset Wet coated /
(blanket) uncoated
Milking Offset Wet coated /
uncoated
Dry pick Letterpress Dry Coated /
(flexo, gravure uncoated
Blister Offset, Dry / wet Coated
pick letterpress
Dusting Offset, Dry / wet uncoated
letterpress
Linting Offset Wet uncoated
Fiberpick Offset Wet uncoated
Relationship between Particles and Fibers Buildup
on Blankets vs Offset Print Quality
Print quality : 1 : good - 5 : bad
paper
colour chronicle 1 | 2009 17

paper
18 colour chronicle 1 | 2009
Relationship between Particles and Fibers Buildup
On Blankets vs Wet Rub Resistance
Relationship between Particles and Fibers Builtup
on Blankets vs IGT Dry Pick
Four Good Reasons for using an
Insolubilizer in Coating Recipes
1) A Clear Correlation Exists between the Wet
Surface Strength (WSS) of Paper And their
Offset Printing Runnability :
Offset printing defects, such as blanket piling,
wet picking of coated paper, as well as dusting,
can be signifi cantly reduced or avoided when the
paper’s WSS is increased.
The best correlation is obtained between offset
runnability / printing defects and WSS, as
measured through Adams wet rub or modifi ed
Taber abrasion tests. Other characteristics, like
dry surface strength (dry IGT or Prüfbau) are not
so well linked to the behaviour of the paper in
offset printing.
The productivity and the quality of the offset
printing process directly depends on WSS – this
can be expressed by the number of printed copies
before cleaning the offset press.
2) WSS is a Varying, Hardly Controllable Property
of Printing Paper :
Once the paper has left the drying section, its
WSS naturally increases by itself but very slowly,
and reaches a maximum after one to two months
of storage. This is due to the constant evolution
of cellulosic fi bers, starch, and particularly
synthetic binders for coated papers, with time.
This phenomenon is strongly dependent on the
storage temperature. For this reason, papers
stored in winter or summer may have very
different printabilities.
The quality and variability of the raw materials
used in the paper production also increases the
variability of the WSS.
3) Offset Printers can be unsatisfied with,
irregular, insufficient and unpredictable Offset
Printabilities :
Offset printers are very concerned by the defects
they observe on the papers they have printed.
This affects the quality and consequently the
value of their work.
Offset printers are not interested to spend time
and money for cleaning the offset blanket,
because deposits have been collected from the
paper, and degrade the printing quality.
If such problems occur, they may have two kinds
of attitude :
– Either they can claim to the paper producer
and ask for money as a compensation of
the loss of productivity and paper quality.
They may give a chance to their supplier for
improving the paper quality.
– Or they may directly prefer to switch to
another supplier, providing similar paper,
but with better-offset runnability. In such
cases, papermakers are merely losing some
of their customers.
4) The regular use of an Efficient Insolubilizer is the
Right Way to Ensure a Constant and Satisfactory
Offset Printability
There are many ways to improve the WSS,
through the choice of the fi ber composition
or refi ning degree, optimization of the sheet
formation, optimized choice of surface starch,
synthetic binders, etc., but the more direct,
economical and controllable way to achieve high
levels of WSS is to use an effi cient crosslinker.
Its role is to reduce the water sensitivity of the
polymers (starch, PVOH, synthetic binders, etc.)
and cellulosic fi bers located close to the surface,
by a crosslinking action.

A fast reacting insolubilizer provides high and
controllable levels of WSS just at the end of the
drying section.
The use of an effi cient crosslinker gives the
insurance to maintain a regular paper quality, in
terms of offset printability, against the negative and
unpredictable impacts of process, raw materials or
storage time and temperature variations.
Not using any insolubilizer, can result in
apparent cost savings like driving a car without
insurance! but fi nally with the risk of expensive
consequences.
The use of a good insolubilizer is the right way
to :
– Save money, as the probability of claims
from offset printers can be signifi cantly
reduced, even to zero.
– Secure market shares, keeping offset
printers as satisfi ed, regular and loyal
customers.
As a performaner insolubilizer, Clariant
recommends the regular use of Cartabond EPI
liquid, an effi cient and fast reacting crosslinker,
that papermakers often need to ensure the right
and constant level of offset printability for their
papers.
Cartabond EPI liquid is a recognized tool for
improving the WSS of uncoated and coated
offset paper in 18 countries in the world.
Characterization of the Paper Wet
Surface Strength
Surface wet abrasion test : Evaluation of paper
surface strength in wet conditions using a modifi ed
Taber abrasion equipment - comparative test
Offset printability defects (blanket piling, linting,
milking, picking etc., can be well correlated with
the measurement of the paper wet surface strength.
The best way to improve the paper wet surface
strength is to crosslink the hydrophilic binders and
cellulosic fi bers with a Surface Strength Improver
Crosslinking action of Cartabond EPI on hydroxyl
groups from starch, CMC, PVOH, cellulose
Cartabond EPI liquid
Highlights
Effi cient Surface Strength Improver.
Crosslinks hydrophilic binders,
such as starch, PVOH, proteins.
Mainly used in size press application, also in
coating.
Reduces dusting, wet picking, piling, etc.
Improves offset printability.
Formaldehyde free.
Fast curing.
Easy repulping.
Typical dosage : 1 to 8 % dry on dry binder.
Complies with FDA 176.180 and BGVV XXXVI
requirements.
paper
colour chronicle 1 | 2009
19

20
paper
colour chronicle 1 | 2009
Action mechanism
DRY
WET
DRY
WET
Starch
Fibres
Uncrosslinked
Crosslinked
Filler particles
Crosslinker
Influence of Crosslinker on WSS and Offset Press
Productivity
Production : 6 tons / hr - deinked pulp - 80 gsm
Size Press : native starch 3 gsm + OBA
Printing issues : dry pick on large black areas - deposits
on blanket (piling)
Number of Printed Copies before Blanket Cleaning
Case history : Cartabond TSI for MWC -
Roll Offset - Magazine paper
Production : Coated offset printing paper for
magazines - 110000 tons / y.
Grammage : 70 to 180 gsm – wood containing
pulp.
Coating colour : (dry parts)
Clay: 25
Calcium Carbonate: 75
Synthetic latex: 10
CMC: 0.3
PVOH: 0.3
Leucophor NS : 0.75
pH: 8.5 - Dry content : 63 %
Coated weight : 10 gsm / side – top coat
Case history : Cartabond TSI for MWC –
Roll offset – Magazine paper
IGT wet pick (3804 ink): Quotation:
UF res.: 3 Cartabond TSI : 1 (good).
Whiteness : same for both products : WCIE : 112
- R457 : 88.
Offset printing : OK.
Cartabond TSI has replaced the UF resin (0.3 pt
against 1.6 UF).

Summary
Coating Binder Cartabond Cartabond
process composition TSI / EPI MZI / KZI
Size – Press Starch XXX 0
Pigmented, Starch XXX 0
pre-metering Synthetic
Size – Press Latex
Starch XXX X
Single
coating
Synthetic
Latex
Pre – coating CMC
Synthetic
latex
XX XX
To – coating
Summary
Starch XX XX
Synthetic
Latex
CMC 0 XXX
Synthetic
latex
Conclusion
Like an insurance, the use of insolubilizers in
coating recipes is often necessary to reduce the
risk of non-conformity in terms of offset printing
quality and offset press machinability.
Clariant has 15 years technical experience in
the use of crosslinkers for improving the paper
wet surface strength and consequently the offset
printing performances.
Taylored made laboratory evaluations can be
implemented in order to establish a diagnostic
on the paper wet surface strength and eventually
recommend the right insolubilizer with preferred
addition levels.
Clariant proposes a full range of insolubilizers
from 3 different chemical families, which can
cover most of the needs of the paper industry.
paper
Product Chemistry Patented Food contact Application Benefits
technology compliance
Cartabond TSI High – reactivity YES BfR 36 FDA 176.180 Uncoated and coated Multipurpose
Glyoxal – based crosslinker offset printing paper, surface strength
office paper, silicon- improver
release, carbonless Resistance to high
paper temperature and pH
conditions in coating
colour (resp. up to
70°C and 9.5)
Cartabond EPI High – reactivity Glyoxal- YES BfR 36 Uncoated and coated Multipurpose
based crosslinker FDA 176.180 offset printing paper, surface strength
FDA 176.170 office paper, silicon- improver
release, carbonless Optimized costpaper
performance
Cartabond MZI High – reactivity YES BfR 36 Coated offset printing Activated zirconium
Ammonium Zirconium – FDA 176.180 paper (LWC, MWC) technology allows
based crosslinker FDA 176.170 higher cost
performance vs
benchmark
Cartabond KZI Starch YES BfR 36 Coated offset printing Activated zirconium
Synthetic Latex FDA 176.180 paper (LWC, MWC) technology allows
FDA 176.170 higher cost
performance vs
benchmark
No ammonia smell
colour chronicle 1 | 2009 21

Result of Assessment of Dye / Processing aid
for the use in EKO Sustainable Textile Standard
(GOTS system)
Name dye/Proc. aid Date of Approved
approval Yes / No
Ceranine SWPI liq 25/06/2007 Yes
Diresul Antioxidant PRM liq 25/06/2007 Yes
Drimaren Turquoise CL-B p 13/03/2007 Yes
Sirrix 2 UD.IN liq 13/08/2007 Yes
Drimaren Navy X-GN.IN 06/09/2007 Yes
Drimaren Red X-6 BN p 06/09/2007 Yes
Drimaren Yellow X-4RNI p 06/09/2007 Yes
Leonil UH liq 06/09/2007 Yes
Sirrix Antox.IN liq 06/09/2007 Yes
Imacol C2G.IN liq 12/10/2007 Yes
Sirrix N liq c 12/10/2007 Yes
Ceraperm K.IN liq 12/10/2007 Yes
Stabilizer AWN.IN liq 12/10/2007 Yes
Stabilizer FCB.IN liq c 12/10/2007 Yes
Sirrix SB.IN liq 12/10/2007 Yes
Appretan ECO liq 12/10/2007 Yes
Imerol XN.IN liq 04/08/2007 Yes
Printofix Thickener CA liq 13/11/2007 Yes
Revatol S.IN p 13/11/2007 Yes
Sirrix N liq 13/11/2007 Yes
Stabilizer SIFAM.IN liq 13/11/2007 Yes
Printofix Binder 1912 PLUS 14/12/2007 Yes
Printofix Binder ITL liq 14/12/2007 Yes
Hostapal DTC.IN liq
Formerly (Sandopan
DTC.IN liq)
22/01/2008 Yes
Imerol NLF.IN liq (Formerly,
Sandoclean NLF.IN liq)
22/01/2008 Yes
Leomin PNLI liq (Formerly,
Sandosoft PNLI liq)
22/01/2008 Yes
Ceralube JNF.IN liq
(Formerly, Sandolube
JNF.IN liq)
22/01/2008 Yes
Ceralube HD.IN liq
(Formerly, Sandolube
HD.IN liq)
22/01/2008 Yes
Imerol MWP liq c (Formerly,
Sandoclean MWP liq c)
22/01/2008 Yes
Ladipur SN liq (Formerly,
Sandopur SN liq)
22/01/2008 Yes
GOTS approved list new arrivals
Name dye/Proc. aid Date of Approved
approval Yes / No
Optisul HSI liq
(Formerly, Sandozol HSI liq)
22/01/2008 Yes
Stabilizer SIFA.IN lq 11/02/2008 Yes
Imerol SR liq 11/02/2008 Yes
Stabilizer SOF.IN liq 11/02/2008 Yes
Diresul Black RDT-S-IN liq
(Formerly, Diresul Black
RDT liq)
11/02/2008 Yes
Drimaren Blue HF-2B cdg 12/02/2008 Yes
Ladipur R3C.IN ip liq 12/02/2008 Yes
Drimaren Navy CL-R p 12/02/2008 Yes
Arkofil PVS p 13/03/2008 Yes
Arkofil S 100 p 13/03/2008 Yes
Ceraperm 3P PLUS liq 13/03/2008 Yes
Ceraperm AQUA liq 13/03/2008 Yes
Drimaren Red CL BL 13/03/2008 Yes
Drimaren Red CL-B p 13/03/2008 Yes
Drimaren Yellow CL-R p 13/03/2008 Yes
Ladiquest DWA liq 13/03/2008 Yes
Leomin SFC liq 13/03/2008 Yes
Printofix Navy R-B 13/03/2008 Yes
Printofix Violet R-B 13/03/2008 Yes
Printofix Black R-NG liq 13/11/2007 Yes
Printofix Blue R-BN 20/03/2007 Yes
Ceraperm TSLF liq 11/06/2008 Yes
Ceraperm 3P liq hc 11/06/2008 Yes
Reductor D.IN p 11/06/2008 Yes
Stabilizer 3Z liq 11/06/2008 Yes
Sirrix SAI liq c 12/06/3008 Yes
Hostalux ETB.IN liq 17/06/2008 Yes
Leucophor BMF.IN liq 17/06/2008 Yes
Leucophor BMB.IN liq 17/06/2008 Yes
Leucophor BFB.IN liq 17/06/2008 Yes
Appretan PUL liq 29/07/2008 Yes
Ceraperm MN liq 29/07/2008 Yes
Mercerol QWNI.IN liq 29/07/2008 Yes
Mercerol RWLF liq 29/07/2008 Yes
Sirrix CPA liq 29//07/2008 Yes
Sirrix USB liq 29/07/2008 Yes
Global
Launch
Nylosan S ®
In addition to the existing ternary
combination (for nylon) of:
Nylosan Yellow S – L sgr
Nylosan Red S – B p
Nylosan Blue S – R p
The new additions are:
Nylosan ® Orange S – 3R sgr
Nylosan Red S – 3B sgr
Nylosan Navy S – 3G sgr
All three new dyestuffs are valuable
additions to the existing Nylosan S range
and represent a true new ‘State of the
Art’ as regards wet fastness for the Super
Milling Dyestuff class.
Features and benefits:
Exceptionally high wet – fastness.
High degree of combinability with no
blocking effect.
Very high build up – particularly on
nylon micro-fi ber.
Moderate PU stain in PA/PU blends.
Simple, conventional application on
both nylon and wool.
Suitable for wool fi bers with excellent
coverage.
Minimal wool fi ber damage dyeing in
the iso-electric region – pH 4.5.
Very high fastness on wool to ‘in house’
processing.
Metal Free.
colour chronicle 1 | 2009 23

24
new arrivals
colour chronicle 1 | 2009
Additions in Local Range
Foron Scarlet S-WF
High wet fast disperse dye for red and scarlet shades
suitable for dyeing polyester and its blends.
High wet fastness. Low staining on multifi ber
even on post heat set fabric.
Can be applied in exhaust, printing and
continuous application.
Main element for wet fast fi re shade in
combination with Foron Brilliant Yellow S–WF,
Foron Golden Yellow S–WF, and Foron Red
S–WF.
High sublimation fastness even at 210°C.
Good dispersing and leveling properties.
Foron Violet S-WF
High wet fast disperse dye for violet shades suitable
for dyeing polyester and its blends.
High wet fastness. Low staining on multifi ber
even on post heat set fabric.
Can be applied in exhaust, printing and
continuous application.
Main element for wet fast violet and purple
shade in combination with Foron Blue S–WF
and Foron Rubine S–WF.
High sublimation Fastness even at 210°C.
Good dispersing and leveling properties.
Printofix Thickener ECS
liquid
Electrolyte stable concentrated synthetic
thickener.
Concentrated thickener: less dosage.
Exhibits good stability to electrolytes.
Is easy to handle.
Provides prints with high colour yield, good
fastness level, especially to print well defi ned
patterns.
Does not impair the handle.
Ceraperm SFC liquid
Specially developed silicone compound for soft
fluorocarbon finishes.
Very soft and pleasant handle.
Virtually no negative infl uence on water – and
oil repellency. Main use on cotton and cotton
blends.
Good sewability properties in combination with
fl uorocarbons on knitwear.
Also recommended together with products like
Nuva 4200 liq (Soil Release and Soil Repellant)
and also products like Nuva SRCN (Soil
Release).
Biolase FCE liquid
New generation acid cellulase for biopolishing.
Removes fuzziness from the surface of the fabric
during production.
Improves signifi cantly the soft feel of garment.
Less colour fading after multiple laundering.
Rapid kinetic behaviour reduces time of the
biowash. Therefore energy consumption costs
are saved and productivity is increased.
Less colour fading after multiple laundering.
Ladipur RSD liquid
An effective washing off agent and fastness
improver for dyeing and prints.
Avoids precipitation of insoluble salts of Calcium
and Magnesium ions.
Suspends and disperses insoluble substances.
Does not affect metal complex dyes.
Ladipur EXW liquid
Excellent after soaping agent for hydrolyzed
reactive dyes and unfixed direct dyes removal from
cellulosic dyed material.
Reduces number of rinsing and soaping steps
required.
Removes hydroxylate from the material.
Retains hydroxylate in the liquor and prevents
their deposition on the material.
Action is independent of pH and salt
concentration.
Effective with all chromophores and reactive
group structures.
Does not get infl uenced by water hardness.
Also effective for fi ber blends.

Clariant’s Expertise
at Various Forums
INDIA ITME 2008
At INDIA ITME 2008, held at
Bengaluru, between November 15
- 22, 2008, Clariant Chemicals (India)
Limited, presented its partners with a
number of highlights from its range of
innovative products and processes: a onestop
service for continuous application,
a competitive sulphur system for denim
and casual wear, a new generation of
fl uorocarbons, as well as various effect
labels and 4E’s intelligent chemistry.
Clariant’s comprehensive range of
products and services offers added value
for various textile industry segments:
home textiles, sports wear, work wear,
swim wear, carpet, automotive, medical
sector and further more.
At ITME, Clariant provided information
on following topics, in particular:
4E’s Intelligent Chemistry: Sustainability
and environmental issues are becoming
more and more important for
consumers, retailers, dyers, fi nishers
and producers of textiles along the
whole value chain. The compliance of
dyes and chemicals with all kinds of
various textile standards (like GOTS,
Oeko-tex and bluesign) is already a
must. Saving resources like water,
wastewater, energy, time or effi ciency
in general links ecology and economy.
Various processes and applications
were described, as to how by using
intelligent chemistry Clariant can bring
these 4 E’s – environment, effi ciency,
ecology and economy – together.
Even the textile consumer profi ts from
intelligent effect chemistry in home
laundering, saving natural resources
through less frequent washing or lower
washing temperatures.
4E’s Cost Calculation Tool: Clariant has
developed an electronic tool for cost
calculation, process standardization
with respect to process control, quality
control; with respect to ecological
elements in terms of input / output
calculation for BOD, COD and TDS.
This electronic tool provides cost
savings solutions to our customers, for
different textile processings.
One-stop Service for Continuous
Application: From pretreatment,
through dyeing to fi nishing, Clariant
has the right product for you all the way
to the fi nished article. A single source
from A to Z. Our experts spoke about
how to optimize processes in terms of
fi nancial outlay, time, energy and water
consumption without affecting its high
quality results be it for the work wear
segment, home textiles or the fashion
industry.
Effect Labels: Clariant provides 14
inside views
Clariant’s Textile Business Stall at the INDIA ITME 2008.
different effect labels. They show
the customer the special features
(protection, comfort, care) which
textile is fi nished with. The customer
can understand the garments quality,
effect and added value. Clariant helps
you to choose the right products and
makes recipe recommendations.
Denim and Casual Wear: Sustainable
products and production processes
that deliver quality performance and
results are a must in today’s world of
increasing environmental legislation.
Clariant discussed about its competitive
sulphur system for garments and fabric
treatment and creative effects with
wash-downs, coatings and special
effects that go on and on.
A New Generation of Fluorocarbons:
Clariant has launched a range of
innovative products based on C6
chemistry that are classifi ed as PFOA
(Per Fluoro Octanoic Acid) free below
limit of detection and also offer the
same high performance as delivered by
C8 chemistry. Nuva ® N series with their
outstanding soil release properties were
also discussed at ITME.
Transportation: Clariant offers complete
range of products for Transport
segment. A whole range of dyes and
auxiliaries i.e. for automotive selection
of disperse Foron ® AS, UV-Fiber
Protection Fadex ® , dyeing auxiliaries
Lyocol/Eganal ® , antistatic and raising
improvement, Ceralube ® . A range of
fl uorinated polymers Nuva ® to add
colour chronicle 1 | 2009 25

26
inside views
high value (water, oil, diesel, solvent,
alcohol barrier / repellency). Nuva and
Nuva N (“PFOA free”). A range of
Flame Retardants Pekofl am ® to meet
the right requirements (performance
/ labeling / environmental rules). A
range of bacteria, dust mite protection;
Sanitized ® . A range of Binders;
Appretan ® adapted to the non woven/
woven applications. Appretan N and
Appretan E (self cross linked and Ultra
Low Formaldehyde) along with a range
of cross linkers Cassurit ® to reach very
high levels of stability /durability in the
technical applications.
Consultancy Services: Through
this Clariant offers to the
customer; Optimization of Process,
Standardization of Recipes, Optimum
Productions, Optimum Machine
Utilization, Optimum Utility
Consumptions, Implementation of
Process/Quality Control, Inventory
control and Inventory Management,
Establishment of ECO Standards,
Trained Technicians and Best practices
of Effl uent Treatment and Waste
Disposal.
TEX SUMMIT 2008
Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited
presented ‘Process Packages, which
take Care of Consumer Safety and
Environment’, in an ‘International Seminar
Series’, on the theme, ‘Technology Punch
for Textiles’, organized by Institute of
Chemical Technology, Department of
Fibers and Textile Processing Technology
at Bengaluru, between November 16 – 17,
2008.
At this occasion, Mr. Anjani K. Prasad,
Country Head of Textile, Leather & Paper
Chemicals Division, Clariant Chemicals
colour chronicle 1 | 2009
(India) Limited, stressed on the benefi ts
of:
Various Process Packages along
with advantages related to Economy,
Efficiency and Environment: Process
Packages for articles like Table Cloth,
Cotton Knits, Denim, Sportswear
and Work wear with respect to pretreatment,
dyeing, printing, fi nishing
and consumer care were covered.
Various International Standards
related to Processes such as RSL,
GOTS, Oeko¬tex and bluesign: Clariant
offers a broad range of dyes and textile
chemicals which comply with these
standards. The effect on environment
and consumer safety is the key element
here.
4E’s Cost Calculation Tool, Effect Labels
and Clariant Consultancy Services were
also highlighted at the seminar.
International Conference by
PAF and NISTI
Vikas Chachara, presenting on Clariant’s,
Innovative Process Packages, to take care of
Consumer Safety and Ecology, at Gurgaon.
Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited
presented, ‘Innovative Process Packages
to take care of Consumer Safety and
Ecology’, at an International Conference
organized by, North India Section of
At the INDIA ITME 2008 Stall.
the Textile Institute (Manchester) and
Pearl Academy of Fashion, on the theme;
Sustainability of the Textile Fashion
Industry Chain: Crop to Shop at Gurgaon,
between November 28 – 29, 2008.
Speaking at this occasion, Mr. Vikas
Chachra, Head, North Zone, Textile
Business discussed the following:
Advanced Denim : Result of Clariant’s
work on denim applications and providing
the market with the most advanced
solutions applying Clariant products and
processes.
Colors with Clariant’s Denim Sulphur Dyes:
Ecological, economical and technically
sound – a synergy simply advanced.
Diresul RDT’s and Indi’s take the design
options of Indigo – dyed fabric off further
– in color shades, coated, overdyed on
Indigo or even Indigo-free, using which
you can engineer individual new effects.
Effects and Innovations with ecological
focus :
ANTOX – your umbrella against iron.
Nylosan S – our new metal free dye
class.
Strength Management Finish.
Arkofi x ELF – new resin with ultra low
formaldehyde.
Clariant provides sustainable solutions
and innovations optimizing the 4E-profile
of a textile : Here Mr. Chachra, elaborated
in more detail on the role of the 4E-
concept throughout the entire process,
from pretreatment to dyeing, printing, and
fi nishing and fi nally consumer care during
desired use; using examples of table cloth,
polo shirt, sportswear, denim and work
wear.
All the above were explained with
reference to the brands and retail business
of Clariant.

New Antimicrobial
Treatment without
Silver
Sanitized AG presented improved
antimicrobial treatment of synthetic fi bers
with a high washing resistance without
the use of silver. Two new additives were
developed for wash-resistant treatment,
enabling a durable fi xation of the
established product, Sanitized T 99-19
on synthetic fi bers. Sanitized X-Linker
PAD 26-19 works as bonding partner in
padding applications. The Sanitized Primer
EX 27-29 was developed for exhaust
applications.
A good compatibility with other textile
effect is also given. The new additives can
be used in textiles with close skin contact
in hospital textiles working clothes,
home and sport textiles and mattresses.
Clariant is the global distribution partner
of Sanitized AG.Invista seeks to reduce
fi bers’ environmental impact.
NOVETEX: 100%
Organic Wool
Since 1976, Novetex has been at the
forefront of yarn innovation and has
progressed to being one of the world’s
largest single site spinners. As part of
ongoing commitment to the “respect for
the environment” policy, they have now
been fully accredited with GOTS/EKO
Certifi cation and are thus enabled to spin
and dye organic woollen fi bers.
In accordance with the eco message
being highlighted at Spinexpo, Novetex
has developed two main organic wool
products to promote at the show: 2/17 nm
100% Organic Wool and 2/26 nm 100%
Organic Wool.
Garments made with these yarns were
on view with an interpretation of each of
the colour stories presented by Spinexpo in
its Trends Area.
The environmental impact of textiles
is an issue of great importance to
Feedback ?
Send your suggestions/entries to
sujata.pariti@clariant.com
Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited
www.clariant.in
Novetex. They are excited to be joining
with SPINEXPO to highlight areas of
improvement in processing yarns to make
the textile industry more sustainable for
future generations.
India – Cotton Prices
likely to Rise after
January
Farmers should hoard cotton for some time,
suggests Vaghela. Hoping for a turnaround
in the textile industry within few months as
far as cotton consumption goes, the Union
Minister for Textiles, Shankersinh Vaghela
requested farmers to hoard the commodity
till January 2009.
“While Cotton Corporation of India
Ltd (CCI) can buy cotton from farmers at
an all-time high minimum support price
(MSP), they should hoard the commodity
till January 2009 so that they can avail
better prices.
The Merino Company
signs Berwin and
Berwin Deal
The Merino Company (TMC) which runs
transparent branded wool platforms such
as Naturally Organic Wool and ZeroCO 2
has signed a deal with UK-based Berwin
and Berwin, one of Europe’s largest suit
manufacturers. The deal gives Berwin and
Berwin exclusive rights to the distribution
of TMC branded, tailored wool suits to UK
department stores, retail boutiques, as well
as featuring in over 50 House of Fraser
stores.
TMC specialises in setting up supply
chains for wool apparel and has worked
with companies such as Instyle Contract
Textiles Pty Ltd to develop its ‘Life
Textiles’ programme – a range of interior
textiles which have a minimal impact
on the environment. These textiles
were developed in conjuction with The
Woolmark Company and are now found in
Printed and Published by
Prabhat Trivedi, on behalf of Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited
Design by Point-n-Pixel
Printed by Multiple Images
gleanings from press
range end uses from home textiles to hotels
to submarines.
Swiss Technology
Award 2008:
coldback ® – One of Nine Outstanding
Swiss Developments
Within the framework of the SWISS
INNOVATION FORUM held in November
in Basel, coldblack ® technology, was
honored as one of nine outstanding Swiss
developments.
Today, in particular, with climatic
conditions subject to rapid change and solar
rays becoming increasingly aggressive,
it is important to cover the skin with a
protective layer. “We were among the
fi nalists in Switzerland with coldblack ® ,
and in the USA our technology has also just
won a major prize”, report the delighted
Hans-Jürgen, Hürgen Hübner and Hans
U. Kohn from Schoeller. coldblack ®
offers double protection from the sun; the
technology prevents the textiles heating up
and provides reliable protection from UV
rays.
HUGO BOSS chooses
coldblack ® for Davis
Cup Wear
127 nations entered for this year’s Davis Cup
- the premium international championships
in men’s tennis. The fi nals were held
between November 21 – 23, 2008 in Mar
del Plata, between Argentina and Spain.
Also on Court was coldblack ® , the new
sun-protection textile fi nish from Schoeller.
HUGO BOSS has been providing the team
dress for the Davis Cup since 1988 and
has decided on a coldblack ® fi nish for the
new linesmen’s collection, “like the players
themselves, they often stand around in the
sun for hours. With new fi nish, we can
use the color black with no diffculties
and at the same time integrate good sun
protection”, is how Till Pohlmann, Head
Sports Sponsorship at HUGO BOSS AG,
explains the choice of material.
Chief Editor: Prabhat Trivedi
Editorial Co-ordinator: Sujata Pariti
Editorial Board: Rajinikanth Prasad,
Sunil Joshi,
Sanjay Sathe
and Sunil Kadam
colour chronicle 1 | 2009
27