The right coffee house for every walk of life - B2B Service for the ...
The right coffee house for every walk of life - B2B Service for the ... The right coffee house for every walk of life - B2B Service for the ...
Café-restaurant in the domed hall of the Kunsthistorisches Museum www.VIENNA.INfo 2011
- Page 2 and 3: 2011 REASoNS FoR VIENNA Every year,
- Page 4 and 5: MICRoCoSM AND PRIVATE lIVING RooM T
- Page 6 and 7: Perhaps it is because of the profus
- Page 8 and 9: “RESTRAINING ARTISTS IS A CRIME
- Page 10 and 11: The “Markart style”, named afte
- Page 12 and 13: DISCoVER VIENNA ... BY BUS AND TRAM
- Page 14 and 15: VIENNA TASTES... …ofyoung wines a
- Page 16 and 17: DREAMS AND REAlITY The fact that Vi
- Page 18 and 19: MUSIC IS IN ThE AIR …and with 415
- Page 20 and 21: Twentieth centuryAustrian design wa
- Page 22 and 23: SWING INTo SPRING ... is the watchw
- Page 24: GriechiScher Wein Merci chérie Das
Café-restaurant in <strong>the</strong> domed hall <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Kunsthistorisches Museum<br />
www.VIENNA.INfo<br />
2011
2011 REASoNS FoR VIENNA<br />
Every year, one thought occupies <strong>the</strong><br />
editorial team more than any o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
when it comes to compiling this journal<br />
<strong>for</strong> you: “We must be prepared<br />
to leave copy on <strong>the</strong> cutting room<br />
floor.” <strong>The</strong> big question is always<br />
what to leave out. We have to decide<br />
which events, news and interesting<br />
angles can’t be touched on at all <strong>for</strong><br />
space reasons. Iamalways pleased<br />
to see <strong>the</strong> jockeying <strong>for</strong> position that<br />
surrounds this publication. It shows<br />
how lively Vienna is, and how much<br />
is going on in <strong>the</strong> city. It also demonstrates<br />
that Vienna understands <strong>the</strong><br />
importance not just <strong>of</strong> preserving its<br />
beauty and rich cultural heritage, but<br />
<strong>of</strong> using and revitalizing it to create<br />
new visitor experiences.<br />
Vienna is truly unique, and <strong>of</strong>fers<br />
something special <strong>every</strong> day. If you<br />
want to make sure that you don’t<br />
miss out on any <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city’s attractions<br />
Istrongly recommend visiting<br />
www.vienna.info. <strong>The</strong> site will give<br />
you 2011 great reasons <strong>for</strong> Vienna in<br />
2011 –ifnot more!<br />
Iwish you apleasurable and inspiring<br />
read as you browse <strong>the</strong> topics that<br />
made it into this year’s Vienna Journal,<br />
and hope we will be seeing you<br />
soon. Welcome to Vienna!<br />
Norbert Kettner<br />
Vienna Tourist Board
2,141 bistro cafés, patisseries, espresso<br />
bars, café restaurants and classic<br />
<strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong>s await visitors to <strong>the</strong><br />
capital. <strong>The</strong> average Viennese drinks<br />
2.6 cups <strong>of</strong> <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> each day, and <strong>every</strong><br />
third person visits his or her favorite<br />
café two or three times aweek. C<strong>of</strong>fee<br />
and <strong>every</strong>thing that goes with it<br />
shapes <strong>life</strong> in <strong>the</strong> city and <strong>the</strong> local<br />
culture. <strong>The</strong> term “<strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong>”<br />
stands <strong>for</strong> alot more than you might<br />
suspect at first.<br />
ThE VIENNESE<br />
CoFFEE hoUSE –<br />
MICRoCoSM<br />
AND lIVING<br />
RooM<br />
PAGE4<br />
PAGE14<br />
VIENNESE<br />
CUISINE AND<br />
VIENNA’S WINES<br />
Vienna is <strong>the</strong> only city in <strong>the</strong> world<br />
to have given its name to aparticular<br />
style <strong>of</strong> cookery. And with good reason.<br />
From time immemorial <strong>the</strong> city’s<br />
chefs have used influences from<br />
many different countries to compose<br />
new dishes and create avaried cuisine<br />
that appeals to <strong>the</strong> imagination<br />
and all <strong>the</strong> senses. <strong>The</strong> fact that you<br />
can enjoy it with aglass <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> local<br />
wine –<strong>the</strong>re are over 700 hectares <strong>of</strong><br />
vineyards inside <strong>the</strong> city limits –may<br />
also have something to do with <strong>the</strong><br />
quality <strong>of</strong> Viennese Cuisine.<br />
Green spaces account <strong>for</strong> more than<br />
half <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> greater Vienna area –<br />
51 percent, to be precise. <strong>The</strong>y include<br />
<strong>the</strong> world-famous Vienna<br />
Woods, baroque <strong>for</strong>mal gardens, <strong>the</strong><br />
Prater park presented to <strong>the</strong> people<br />
by <strong>the</strong> Emperor, and <strong>the</strong> various<br />
parks included in <strong>the</strong> original plans<br />
<strong>for</strong> Vienna’s showpiece Ringstrasse<br />
boulevard. Not to mention 20 th -century<br />
developments such as opening<br />
up <strong>the</strong> Danube beaches and <strong>the</strong> creation<br />
<strong>of</strong> numerous recreation zones,<br />
nature reserves, and sport and leisure<br />
facilities.<br />
URBAN AND<br />
GREEN SPACES<br />
IN PERFECT<br />
hARMoNY<br />
PAGE6<br />
PAGE16<br />
IMPERIAl<br />
VIENNA –<br />
DREAMS AND<br />
REAlITY<br />
“When it comes to <strong>the</strong> harking back<br />
to <strong>the</strong> past, <strong>the</strong> Viennese are world<br />
champions. But <strong>the</strong> city has stopped<br />
playing its sweet, melancholic dirge,<br />
and instead it is trilling merrily along<br />
in an upbeat major. <strong>The</strong> <strong>for</strong>mer imperial<br />
residence hankers after past<br />
greatness like no o<strong>the</strong>r major city, yet<br />
it also has amodern, cult appeal and<br />
exudes baroque sensuality,” wrote<br />
Monika Czernin in <strong>the</strong> Merian travel<br />
guide. We couldn’t have put it better<br />
ourselves!<br />
Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele, Sigmund<br />
Freud, ludwig Wittgenstein,<br />
Josef h<strong>of</strong>fmann, Arthur Schnitzler<br />
and Gustav Mahler –just some <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> big names behind Vienna’s artistic<br />
renaissance around 1900. <strong>The</strong>se<br />
geniuses have had an enduring influence<br />
on modern <strong>life</strong>, and evidence<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir legacy can still be found all<br />
over Vienna in 2011. <strong>The</strong> same goes<br />
<strong>for</strong> contemporary artists in <strong>the</strong> city<br />
today.<br />
VIENNESE<br />
MoDERNISM<br />
AND<br />
MoDERNISM IN<br />
VIENNA<br />
PAGE8<br />
PAGE18<br />
MUSIC IS IN ThE<br />
AIR<br />
<strong>The</strong> fact that music is in <strong>the</strong> air in<br />
Vienna is not just down to <strong>the</strong> capital’s<br />
world-famous opera <strong>house</strong>s,<br />
concert halls and musical <strong>the</strong>aters –<br />
festivals, outdoor concerts, <strong>the</strong> ball<br />
season, traditional heuriger wine tavern<br />
music, live opera broadcasts and,<br />
increasingly, clubs and dance locations<br />
all help set <strong>the</strong> tone <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city.<br />
<strong>The</strong> 5.2-kilometer-long Ringstrasse<br />
encircles Vienna’shistoric city center.<br />
<strong>The</strong> creation <strong>of</strong> this showpiece boulevard<br />
following <strong>the</strong> demolition <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> medieval city walls from 1858<br />
marked anew chapter in <strong>the</strong> history<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> capital, and not just in terms<br />
<strong>of</strong> urban planning. <strong>The</strong> Ringstrasse is<br />
<strong>the</strong> ideal place to study and experience<br />
one and ahalf centuries <strong>of</strong> cultural<br />
and social change in Vienna and<br />
Central Europe.<br />
ASTREET,<br />
AN ERA,<br />
AFEElING<br />
PAGE10<br />
PAGE20<br />
FoRM AND<br />
FUNCTIoN<br />
“To love and beautify something<br />
is one and <strong>the</strong> same thing.” <strong>The</strong>se<br />
words come from Robert Musil, one<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most influential German-language<br />
authors <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 20 th century and<br />
aconnoisseur <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Austrian soul.<br />
Countless Viennese manufacturers<br />
and shops follow this maxim as <strong>the</strong>y<br />
apply <strong>the</strong>ir traditions and expertise to<br />
<strong>the</strong> art <strong>of</strong> making <strong>the</strong> objects that surround<br />
us more beautiful.<br />
Contents3<br />
What is aFaxi? Do Ireally want to<br />
follow in <strong>the</strong> footsteps <strong>of</strong> Josefine<br />
Mutzenbacher? Where will Vienna’s<br />
boats and wheels take me? Turn to<br />
pages 12 and 13 <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> answers to<br />
questions like <strong>the</strong>se, and in<strong>for</strong>mation<br />
on some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> countless ways to<br />
experience Viennese joie de vivre at<br />
first hand.<br />
DISCoVERING<br />
VIENNA, WITh A<br />
TWIST!<br />
PAGE12<br />
PAGE22<br />
2011 IN VIENNA<br />
This page contains even more recommendations<br />
<strong>of</strong> what to do in Vienna<br />
in 2011. From <strong>the</strong> New Year’s Trail<br />
to Christmas markets, from summer<br />
concerts to picnics in <strong>the</strong> park,<br />
and from Sisi’s summer palace to<br />
<strong>the</strong> stage where Johann Strauss once<br />
played –and much else besides.
MICRoCoSM<br />
AND PRIVATE<br />
lIVING RooM<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>right</strong> <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong> <strong>for</strong><br />
<strong>every</strong><strong>walk</strong><strong>of</strong><strong>life</strong> ...<br />
oK, <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> is drunk all over <strong>the</strong> world,<br />
and <strong>the</strong>re are o<strong>the</strong>r places where<br />
people know how to make acup <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong>. <strong>The</strong> Viennese cannot claim<br />
to have invented <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong>. But <strong>the</strong>re is<br />
no denying that <strong>the</strong>y have perfected<br />
<strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong> culture –and <strong>the</strong> Vienna<br />
café shows why <strong>the</strong> words <strong>for</strong> “culture”<br />
and “cult” are so close to one<br />
ano<strong>the</strong>r. <strong>The</strong>re are endless possibilities<br />
to combine varieties (a melange,<br />
einspänner or schale gold?), settings<br />
(classic 19 th century, art nouveau or<br />
contemporary?), side orders (pair <strong>of</strong><br />
frankfurters, slice <strong>of</strong> Sachertorte or<br />
goulash?), occupations (seeing and<br />
being seen, reading <strong>the</strong> papers or<br />
chatting) and choices <strong>of</strong> company.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Viennese <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong> is acosmos<br />
that has yet to be charted in full<br />
–and <strong>every</strong> cup <strong>of</strong> <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> you enjoy<br />
in Vienna will taste alittle different<br />
to <strong>the</strong> one be<strong>for</strong>e.<br />
Architect Gregor Eichinger<br />
created an “aromatic <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong><br />
jar” <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> MAK Design<br />
Shop. <strong>The</strong>se jars (designed<br />
by Oskar Strnad), filled with<br />
freshly roasted <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> beans<br />
release an intense aroma<br />
when <strong>the</strong>y are opened.<br />
Youcan go <strong>for</strong> marble at <strong>the</strong> Café Central<br />
(above), wood paneling and art at <strong>the</strong> Hawelka<br />
(left), terrace and art nouveau at <strong>the</strong> Palmenhaus,<br />
mirrors at <strong>the</strong> Savoy (both <strong>right</strong>). But it is<br />
more than <strong>the</strong> interiors that sets Vienna <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong><br />
<strong>house</strong>s apart.
One <strong>of</strong> many classic items <strong>of</strong> furniture originally<br />
created <strong>for</strong> aViennese <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong> –<strong>the</strong><br />
bentwood chair that Adolf Loos designed <strong>for</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Café Museum in 1899. Today it is on display<br />
at <strong>the</strong> H<strong>of</strong>mobiliendepot, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> largest<br />
furniture museums in <strong>the</strong> world.<br />
MUCh MoRE<br />
ThAN JUST<br />
CoFFEE CoFFEE hoUSE...<br />
Vienna’scafés<br />
hold amirror to<br />
its history, soul,<br />
people and culture<br />
“Because Mr hawelka does not renovate,”<br />
is writer heimito von Doderer’s<br />
explanation <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> enduring popularity<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> legendary Café hawelka.<br />
And even if that is not entirely true<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hawelka, <strong>the</strong> fact is that <strong>every</strong><br />
Viennese <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong> has its own<br />
unique character that barely changes<br />
over <strong>the</strong> years, and leaves alasting<br />
impression on its patrons. Traditions<br />
are passed down from one generation<br />
to <strong>the</strong> next and closely guarded like<br />
family secrets. For instance, at <strong>the</strong><br />
hawelka talking until <strong>the</strong> sun goes<br />
down (or up) is <strong>the</strong> order <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day.<br />
It was closed <strong>for</strong> 43 years, but that’snot<br />
enough to keep atrue institution like<br />
<strong>the</strong> Café Central down. Apopular artists’<br />
café, <strong>the</strong> Central opened in 1868<br />
in what is now known as <strong>the</strong> Palais<br />
Ferstel –one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city’smost modern<br />
buildings at <strong>the</strong> time. <strong>The</strong> café, one <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> centers <strong>of</strong> intellectual <strong>life</strong> in <strong>the</strong><br />
capital, shut up shop in 1943 and did<br />
not reopen until 1986. But it has been<br />
business as usual ever since: “a good<br />
mind behind <strong>every</strong> paper,<strong>every</strong> argument<br />
aliterary gem, and <strong>every</strong> drop <strong>of</strong><br />
cream aworld view.”<br />
Vienna’s <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong>s are also living<br />
architectural history. <strong>The</strong> country’s<br />
leading architects are well represented.<br />
<strong>The</strong> interior <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Café Wunderer<br />
was created by Josef h<strong>of</strong>fmann, and<br />
oswald haerdtl designed <strong>the</strong> Café<br />
A new spin on apple<br />
strudel: strudel: Xocolat has used used<br />
<strong>the</strong> classic ingredients <strong>of</strong><br />
this highlight highlight <strong>of</strong> Viennese Viennese<br />
pastry<br />
cooking to conjure<br />
up anew a new kind <strong>of</strong>confec- tionary (handmade, like<br />
<strong>every</strong>thing <strong>the</strong>y do).<br />
Prückel. Even Adolf loos’ American<br />
Bar, aprototype <strong>of</strong> today’s nightclub<br />
that has been copied around <strong>the</strong><br />
world, adapted classic <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong> architecture<br />
to <strong>the</strong> demands <strong>of</strong> night<strong>life</strong>.<br />
C<strong>of</strong>fee culture in Vienna dictates that<br />
no cultural institution can be without<br />
its own café. <strong>The</strong> Kunsthistorisches<br />
Museum, Museum <strong>of</strong> Applied Art/<br />
Contemporary Art (MAK), <strong>the</strong> Jewish<br />
Museum, <strong>the</strong> Burg<strong>the</strong>ater, <strong>the</strong> MuseumsQuartier<br />
and even <strong>the</strong> home <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> lipizzan thoroughbreds all have<br />
cafés, and each is an institution in its<br />
own <strong>right</strong>. <strong>The</strong> Viennese know how<br />
to combine business and pleasure,<br />
and <strong>the</strong> precise destination is always<br />
decided at <strong>the</strong> last minute according<br />
to personal preferences.<br />
Not even <strong>the</strong> imperial family was immune<br />
to <strong>the</strong> passion <strong>for</strong> <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong>s<br />
and patisseries. This is reflected in<br />
<strong>the</strong> number <strong>of</strong> establishments honored<br />
with <strong>the</strong> title <strong>of</strong> “purveyor to<br />
<strong>the</strong> imperial court”, many <strong>of</strong> which,<br />
including Gerstner,Demel, Sluka and<br />
heiner,are still open to this day.<br />
...with aview:C<strong>of</strong>fee at 160m altitude<br />
(and 360 degree views <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city) can<br />
only mean <strong>the</strong> Danube Tower, completed<br />
in 1964 and Vienna’s tallest<br />
building.<br />
...as astatement: <strong>The</strong>ir terraces are<br />
just two meters apart but <strong>the</strong> Café<br />
Korb (*1904) and Café Delias (*2002)<br />
could hardly be more different. one<br />
is consciously artsy and quirky, <strong>the</strong><br />
o<strong>the</strong>r abastion <strong>of</strong> urban chic. Some<br />
people have even been known to<br />
cross <strong>the</strong> invisible border from time<br />
to time.<br />
...alternative: operngasse is home to<br />
an elegant salon de thé which provides<br />
afrancophile alternative to <strong>the</strong><br />
home grown <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong>.<br />
...crossovers: <strong>The</strong> trendy Freihaus<br />
district is home to Point <strong>of</strong> Sale<br />
which is aViennese take on <strong>the</strong> deli,<br />
and Kiosk which successfully combines<br />
<strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> shop atmosphere with<br />
typical sausage stand products.<br />
...en rose:B<strong>right</strong> pink can only mean<br />
one thing in Vienna – one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
28 branches <strong>of</strong> Aida. <strong>The</strong> chain features<br />
original fifties espresso bar decor<br />
and <strong>the</strong> famous iced punch cakes<br />
–presumably <strong>the</strong> inspiration behind<br />
<strong>the</strong> corporate color scheme.<br />
...and afeast <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> eyes: Marcus <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Café Marcusplatz is widely rated<br />
as <strong>the</strong> city’s best looking <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> shop<br />
CoFFEE FoR<br />
All ThE SENSES<br />
<strong>The</strong> genuine Viennese <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong><br />
atmosphere is inextricably linked to<br />
<strong>the</strong> city, but some aspects do travel<br />
well.<br />
Take chocolate <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> beans and Empress<br />
Elisabeth’s favorite, candied<br />
violets from Demel. And probably<br />
<strong>the</strong> smallest sweets in <strong>the</strong> world,<br />
unchanged since 1928, still come in<br />
Wiener Werkstätte designed packaging.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Viennnese <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong> – microcosm and living room5<br />
owner.But we’ll leave that to each individual<br />
to decide <strong>for</strong> him or herself.<br />
...with asurvival instinct: originally<br />
intended as a temporary solution<br />
when it opened in 1992, <strong>the</strong> café at<br />
<strong>the</strong> Kunsthalle Karlsplatz soon became<br />
afirm favorite, and is still going<br />
strong now.<br />
...<strong>for</strong> Dr Jekyll &MrHyde:Afavorite<br />
hangout <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> gay and lesbian scene<br />
in <strong>the</strong> evenings, <strong>the</strong> opulent Café Savoy<br />
leads adouble <strong>life</strong>. on Saturdays<br />
it turns into afavorite family meeting<br />
place thanks to its proximity to <strong>the</strong><br />
flea market.<br />
Aroma researcher and praline artist Michael<br />
Diewald creates his Blühendes Konfekt (blossoming<br />
confectionary) from wild fruits, herbs<br />
and dried flowers. <strong>The</strong> seasonal range includes<br />
lime and elderberry marzipan in turmeric,<br />
camomile flower chocolates and chocolate<br />
mint leaves.<br />
<strong>The</strong>n <strong>the</strong>re are unusual echoes <strong>of</strong><br />
abygone age at places like Knopfkönig,<br />
where asupplier <strong>of</strong> buttons<br />
and zips by appointment to <strong>the</strong> court<br />
began selling his goods back in 1844.<br />
Virtually unchanged to this day, it<br />
is now home to Schokoladekönig<br />
which sells cakes, confectionary and<br />
pralines.<br />
And <strong>the</strong>re are <strong>the</strong> insights <strong>of</strong>fered by<br />
star chef Christian Petz at <strong>the</strong> Xocolat<br />
workshop where visitors can watch<br />
<strong>the</strong> chocolatiers at work or sign up<br />
<strong>for</strong> acourse to learn <strong>the</strong> art <strong>of</strong> pastry<br />
and chocolate making. Book early to<br />
avoid disappointment.<br />
late check out is <strong>the</strong> apt title <strong>of</strong> aCD<br />
which ventures into <strong>the</strong> worlds <strong>of</strong><br />
jazz, bossa nova, hip-hop, soul, broken<br />
beat and electronic music. This<br />
appetizer <strong>for</strong> Austrian music was<br />
released to coincide with <strong>the</strong> Café<br />
Drechsler’s 90 th birthday. <strong>The</strong> legendary<br />
café is not just famous <strong>for</strong> its<br />
opening hours (it only closes from<br />
2–3 a.m.) and amixed crowd (<strong>every</strong>one<br />
from market traders to party<br />
girls can be found <strong>the</strong>re). ATerence<br />
Conran &Partners makeover has created<br />
acafé <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> 21 st century that is<br />
unique and familiar at once.<br />
ANAToMY oF<br />
AN INSTITUTIoN<br />
Virtually <strong>every</strong> Viennese bar has a<br />
touch <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> café about it –one more<br />
reason <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> city’s legendary congeniality.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Vienna <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong>-<strong>house</strong><br />
has <strong>the</strong> following variants:<br />
•Café-Konditorei /Acelebration <strong>of</strong><br />
all things sweet. Uncontested doyenne<br />
–<strong>for</strong>mer purveyors to <strong>the</strong> imperial<br />
court, Demel.<br />
•Café-Restaurant /This is <strong>of</strong>ten a<br />
gross understatement <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> culinary<br />
case, as many cafés have a<br />
loyal following thanks to <strong>the</strong> quality<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir food. Examples range from<br />
Zum Schwarzen Kameel (which<br />
runs <strong>the</strong> gamut from luxury restaurant<br />
to snack bar) to trendy Babu,<br />
which is one <strong>of</strong> many places along<br />
<strong>the</strong> Gürtel beltway – <strong>the</strong> newest<br />
center <strong>of</strong> city night<strong>life</strong>.<br />
•Nacht-Café /aka bar.Decked out in<br />
red plush wallpaper, <strong>the</strong> Eden Bar<br />
is atrue classic. <strong>The</strong> Volksgarten<br />
disco club is acontemporary variation<br />
on <strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>me, and has long<br />
been aMecca <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> Vienna party<br />
crowd.<br />
•Tanz-Café / <strong>The</strong>re are very few<br />
genuine Tanzcafés (dance cafés) left<br />
today, as most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m have since<br />
been rebranded as discos or clubs.<br />
At least <strong>the</strong> Tanzcafé Jenseits is not<br />
ashamed <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> name –this <strong>for</strong>mer<br />
red-light bar is a magnet <strong>for</strong> late<br />
night party people.<br />
And that’s be<strong>for</strong>e you even mention<br />
concert cafés, bridge cafés, internet<br />
cafés and <strong>the</strong> rest.<br />
“<strong>The</strong> side<strong>walk</strong> cafés reopen<br />
and Vienna emerges<br />
from its slumber without<br />
fail on <strong>the</strong> first sunny<br />
Saturday in March each<br />
year. A new <strong>life</strong> begins.<br />
Ice <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> comes back on<br />
<strong>the</strong> menu. People wander<br />
from one <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> <strong>house</strong> to<br />
<strong>the</strong> next in aday brimming<br />
with fresh discoveries.”
Perhaps it is because <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>usion <strong>of</strong> flowers in Vienna that<br />
<strong>the</strong> floral designs are one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> glories <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Art Nouveau movement.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Blumenball at City Hall also has an illustrious history.<br />
January14, 2011 marks <strong>the</strong> 89 th installment.<br />
GREEN,<br />
ENVIRoNMENTAllY<br />
FRIENDlY AND<br />
lIVEABlE<br />
Atotal <strong>of</strong> 850 parks and 1,100 km <strong>of</strong><br />
cycle paths, eco-friendly hospitality<br />
at 81 environmentally certified restaurants,<br />
and clear spring water direct<br />
from <strong>the</strong> tap. Where can you get<br />
all that? In Vienna, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most<br />
livable cities on earth!<br />
Statistically speaking, <strong>the</strong>re are<br />
120 square meters <strong>of</strong> green space <strong>for</strong><br />
each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Vienna’s 1.7 million inhabitants.<br />
With open space making<br />
up 51 percent <strong>of</strong> its total area, <strong>the</strong><br />
Austrian capital is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world’s<br />
greenest big cities. <strong>The</strong>re is <strong>the</strong> perfect<br />
park to suit <strong>every</strong> taste. highlights<br />
include <strong>the</strong> <strong>for</strong>mal French gardens<br />
at Schönbrunn Palace, <strong>the</strong> refined<br />
English-garden-style Stadtpark, <strong>the</strong><br />
world’s oldest Alpine garden with<br />
some 4,000 species <strong>of</strong> Alpine flora<br />
at <strong>the</strong> Belvedere Palace, 400 varieties<br />
<strong>of</strong> roses in <strong>the</strong> Volksgarten, one<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city’s oldest surviving baroque<br />
<strong>for</strong>mal gardens at <strong>the</strong> Augarten, <strong>the</strong><br />
10-m-high treetop trail at Schönbrunn<br />
Zoo, and <strong>the</strong> romantic ponds<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Türkenschanzpark.<br />
Leisure and<br />
Relaxation<br />
over acentury ago Vienna’s mayor <strong>The</strong> Donau Auen National Park was<br />
Karl lueger laid <strong>the</strong> groundwork <strong>for</strong> created to protect one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> largest<br />
a19,000 hectare greenbelt, which vir- natural wetlands in Central Europe.<br />
tually encircles <strong>the</strong> city today. A third <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> park is accounted<br />
<strong>for</strong> by <strong>the</strong> lobau in Vienna, an area<br />
In 2005 <strong>the</strong> Vienna Woods were which incorporates parts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> New<br />
designated a biosphere reserve by Danube and <strong>the</strong> Danube Island.<br />
UNESCo –atitle given to outstanding<br />
cultural and natural landscapes.<br />
An area <strong>the</strong> size <strong>of</strong> 110,000 football<br />
pitches provides a habitat <strong>for</strong><br />
2,000 types <strong>of</strong> plants, 150 species <strong>of</strong><br />
breeding birds and many o<strong>the</strong>r endangered<br />
animals.
VIENNA<br />
AND WATER<br />
<strong>The</strong> Danube has always shaped<br />
Vienna. Immortalized in Johann<br />
Strauss’s Blue Danube Waltz, Vienna<br />
is indelibly linked with <strong>the</strong> river<br />
in <strong>the</strong> minds <strong>of</strong> people all over <strong>the</strong><br />
world. <strong>The</strong> Danube and <strong>the</strong> 21-km<br />
Danube island –originally constructed<br />
as part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city’s flood defenses<br />
–plays aspecial role in <strong>every</strong>day<br />
<strong>life</strong> in <strong>the</strong> capital. Vienna also has <strong>the</strong><br />
Danube to thank <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> Graveyard <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Unknown. This burial ground is<br />
named <strong>for</strong> 104 bodies washed ashore<br />
at <strong>the</strong> confluence <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Danube and<br />
<strong>the</strong> Danube Canal, most <strong>of</strong> which<br />
could not be identified.<br />
But <strong>the</strong>re is more to water in Vienna<br />
than just <strong>the</strong> Danube:<br />
•17 million years ago Vienna was<br />
surrounded by salt water –itwas in<br />
midst <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Pannonian sea.<br />
•Vienna has 29 wetland lakes, and<br />
four rivers and canals, as well as<br />
29 streams in <strong>the</strong> Vienna Woods,<br />
and about 40 ponds and lakes.<br />
•<strong>The</strong> 60,000-square-meter <strong>The</strong>rme<br />
Wien spa is unique in Europe. It is<br />
surrounded by <strong>the</strong> Kurpark and <strong>the</strong><br />
Kurkonditorei oberlaa, which gets<br />
through some 16.5 metric tons <strong>of</strong><br />
chocolate each year.<br />
•Twospringwater pipelines from <strong>the</strong><br />
Schneeberg, Rax, Schneealpe and<br />
hochschwab regions supply Vienna<br />
with 400,000 cubic meters <strong>of</strong> fresh<br />
spring water each day.<br />
•Vienna’s spring water also flows<br />
from 700 drinking water fountains.<br />
<strong>The</strong> astronomical fountain<br />
on Schwarzenbergplatz recalls <strong>the</strong><br />
first Vienna spring water main. <strong>The</strong><br />
365 small jets around <strong>the</strong> rim <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> basin symbolize <strong>the</strong> number <strong>of</strong><br />
days in <strong>the</strong> year,<strong>the</strong> 12 high jets <strong>the</strong><br />
months, <strong>the</strong> 24 low jets <strong>the</strong> number<br />
<strong>of</strong> hours in <strong>the</strong> day, and afur<strong>the</strong>r<br />
30 jets <strong>the</strong> number <strong>of</strong> days in <strong>the</strong><br />
month. Vienna’s 54 monumental<br />
fountains shape <strong>the</strong> cityscape. <strong>The</strong><br />
marriage fountain on hoher Markt<br />
is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city’s most important<br />
baroque fountains.<br />
•Vienna has four times as many<br />
bridges as Venice – 1,716 in all.<br />
<strong>The</strong> bijoux Konstantinsteg in <strong>the</strong><br />
Prater Park, completed in 1873, is<br />
Vienna’soldest bridge.<br />
•<strong>The</strong> 1910 Strudlh<strong>of</strong>stiege, with its<br />
curved stone steps and green balustrades,<br />
is acharming example <strong>of</strong><br />
Viennese art nouveau. <strong>The</strong> centerpiece<br />
is acopper fish with water<br />
gushing out <strong>of</strong> its mouth.<br />
oRGANIC<br />
DElIGhTS<br />
Vienna is <strong>the</strong> <strong>right</strong> destination <strong>for</strong><br />
holidaymakers in search <strong>of</strong> health<br />
and sustainability. From organic<br />
body care products to fair-trade fashion<br />
boutiques, and organic stores and<br />
delis –Vienna has it all. <strong>The</strong> 81 businesses<br />
that carry <strong>the</strong> Ecolabel contribute<br />
to <strong>the</strong> quality <strong>of</strong> <strong>life</strong> in <strong>the</strong> city<br />
by pursuing policies such as energy<br />
saving and organic purchasing. <strong>The</strong><br />
Vienna City Council is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
largest organic farmers in Austria.<br />
Its three organic farms have over<br />
860 hectares <strong>of</strong> land.<br />
Sustainable fashion tips<br />
•Göttin des Glücks:<br />
www.goettindesgluecks.com<br />
•Modus Vivendi:<br />
www.modusvivendi.at<br />
•herr und Frau Klein:<br />
www.herrundfrauklein.com<br />
•Prumo: www.prumo.at<br />
•ebenBERG: www.ebenberg.at<br />
•GuterSt<strong>of</strong>f: http://guterst<strong>of</strong>f.com<br />
•pagabei: www.pagabei.at<br />
•Terra Plana: www.terraplana.com<br />
Sustainable food tips<br />
•Tewa organic restuarant:<br />
www.tewa672.com<br />
•Eating and cooking at Wrenkh:<br />
www.wiener-kochsalon.com<br />
•Saint Charles Alimentary pharmacy<br />
restaurant: www.saint.info<br />
•Weltcafé: www.weltcafe.at<br />
•Experience <strong>life</strong> as afarmer at <strong>the</strong><br />
landgut Wien Cobenzl:<br />
www.landgutcobenzl.at<br />
•homemade bread at Motto am<br />
Fluss, at <strong>the</strong> Vienna City riverboat<br />
terminal<br />
VIENNA IS ABED<br />
oF RoSES<br />
Wherever you go, Vienna is in bloom.<br />
<strong>The</strong> hirschstetten nursery alone cultivates<br />
some 300,000 spring, 1.4 million<br />
summer and 50,000 autumn<br />
flowers, as well as one million bulbs,<br />
135 trees and 11,000 shrubs each<br />
year.Its rosarium is home to 1,700 varieties<br />
<strong>of</strong> roses. Magnolia trees go<br />
back along way in <strong>the</strong> Austrian capital.<br />
one particularly old specimen<br />
stands near <strong>the</strong> Strauss memorial in<br />
<strong>the</strong> Stadtpark. Planted towards <strong>the</strong><br />
end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 19 th century, it is still flowering<br />
to this day.<br />
AMoNUMENT<br />
To MoThER<br />
NATURE<br />
Natural monuments can be protected<br />
in Vienna by acity law passed on<br />
July 5, 1935. Today <strong>the</strong>re are more<br />
than 400 natural monuments in <strong>the</strong><br />
city.<br />
•<strong>The</strong> “Thousand-Year-Old Yew” at<br />
Rennweg 12, in <strong>the</strong> third district, is<br />
Vienna’s oldest natural monument.<br />
It is <strong>the</strong> sole survivor from an ancient<br />
yew grove planted in Roman<br />
times.<br />
•<strong>The</strong> courtyard <strong>of</strong> Schlossgasse 15<br />
in <strong>the</strong> 5 th district is home to one <strong>of</strong><br />
ABuddha’s Hand citron in <strong>the</strong> 300-year-old Federal Gardens collection, which originated<br />
with <strong>the</strong> Imperial orangeries.<br />
Urban and green spaces in perfect harmony7<br />
<strong>the</strong> last examples <strong>of</strong> Maria <strong>The</strong>resa‘s<br />
mulberry trees. her affection <strong>for</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>se trees was chiefly due to its<br />
suitability <strong>for</strong> breeding silkworms.<br />
•<strong>The</strong> 750-meter-long Schönbrunner<br />
Allee leading from Schönbrunn Palace<br />
to hetzendorf Palace goes back<br />
to <strong>the</strong> latter years <strong>of</strong> Maria <strong>The</strong>resa’s<br />
reign and that <strong>of</strong> Joseph II.<br />
•Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart regularly<br />
passed <strong>the</strong> oriental plant (Platanus<br />
orientalis) at Rennweg 14 in <strong>the</strong><br />
3 rd district on his way to give piano<br />
lessons in <strong>the</strong> <strong>house</strong> next door.<br />
“<strong>The</strong> intoxicating aroma <strong>of</strong> hundreds<br />
<strong>of</strong> citrus plants fills <strong>the</strong> orangery<br />
at Schönbrunn Palace. A<br />
large number <strong>of</strong> plants from <strong>the</strong><br />
Federal Gardens’ historic collection,<br />
some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m over 180 years<br />
old, will be on show during <strong>the</strong><br />
Vienna Citrus Days (May 13–15,<br />
2011). horticultural experts will<br />
be on hand to provide in<strong>for</strong>mation<br />
and give gardening tips.”
“RESTRAINING<br />
ARTISTS IS A<br />
CRIME” EGoN SChIElE<br />
“Art cannot be modern; art is<br />
timeless.”<br />
Egon Schiele<br />
Apair <strong>of</strong> major museum exhibitions<br />
in Vienna during 2011 are dedicated<br />
to <strong>the</strong> work <strong>of</strong> one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> central artistic<br />
personalities in turn-<strong>of</strong>-<strong>the</strong>century<br />
Vienna; Egon Schiele (1890-<br />
1918). Along with Gustav Klimt,<br />
Schiele was one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most famous<br />
Austrian painters <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 20 th century<br />
and pioneer who paved <strong>the</strong> way <strong>for</strong><br />
Modernism. Schiele’s works will be<br />
on display in <strong>the</strong> baroque Belvedere<br />
palace from January to June 2011<br />
and in <strong>the</strong> Leopold Museum in <strong>the</strong><br />
MuseumsQuartier (MQ) from September<br />
2011 to January 2012.<br />
Although <strong>the</strong> whole <strong>of</strong> Europe was a<br />
hive <strong>of</strong> creativity between 1890 and<br />
1910/1920 some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most important<br />
discoveries and innovations <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> age were made in <strong>the</strong> Austrian<br />
capital. <strong>The</strong> Wiener Moderne period<br />
is associated with names such<br />
as Sigmund Freud, ludwig Wittgenstein,<br />
otto Wagner, Adolf loos, Josef<br />
h<strong>of</strong>fmann, Arthur Schnitzler,Gustav<br />
Mahler and Arnold Schönberg.<br />
Egon Schiele also belongs to this list<br />
<strong>of</strong> luminaries. At <strong>the</strong> age <strong>of</strong> sixteen<br />
he became astudent at <strong>the</strong> Academy<br />
<strong>of</strong> Fine Arts only to leave again two<br />
years later, disappointed by <strong>the</strong> dogmatic<br />
teaching methods. <strong>The</strong> art collector<br />
heinrich Benesch described<br />
Schiele as “slightly shy, alittle timid<br />
and alittle self-conscious.” he was a<br />
serious character without being dark<br />
or melancholy; “Schiele was not one<br />
to let things get him down.”<br />
In 1909 agroup <strong>of</strong> young artists associated<br />
with Schiele, <strong>the</strong> Neukunstgruppe,<br />
caused astir with its hotly<br />
debated debut exhibition. “Nobody<br />
may ever find out that Ihave seen this<br />
filth,” <strong>the</strong> heir to <strong>the</strong> throne, Archduke<br />
Franz Ferdinand is supposed<br />
to have said. In 1912 Schiele spent<br />
24 days in prison <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> distribution<br />
<strong>of</strong> obscene drawings.<br />
Straightened circumstances and a<br />
suggestion by <strong>the</strong> famous architect<br />
otto Wagner led Schiele to paint<br />
portraits <strong>of</strong> personalities from <strong>the</strong><br />
Viennese arts scene. he was encouraged<br />
above all by <strong>the</strong> highly successful<br />
Gustav Klimt, 28 years his senior.<br />
<strong>The</strong> result was afriendship and<br />
meeting <strong>of</strong> kindred artistic spirits that<br />
Schiele commemorated in his painting<br />
<strong>The</strong> hermits (1912) which is now<br />
on display in <strong>the</strong> leopold Museum.<br />
At <strong>the</strong> 49 th exhibition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Vienna<br />
Secession in 1918, Schiele had<br />
19 paintings and 29 drawings on<br />
show in <strong>the</strong> main gallery. It was his<br />
first artistic and material success.<br />
only afew months later, inoctober<br />
1918, he died from <strong>the</strong> Spanish influenza,<br />
three days after <strong>the</strong> death <strong>of</strong><br />
his wife Edith, who was six months<br />
pregnant.<br />
Schiele’s international recognition<br />
owes much to <strong>the</strong> work <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Austrian<br />
gallerist otto Kallir and his<br />
St. Etienne gallery in New York,<br />
as well as Viennese doctor Rudolf<br />
leopold, who began collecting <strong>the</strong><br />
artist’s works in <strong>the</strong> 1950s, atime<br />
when his oeuvre was less wellknown.<br />
leopold’scomprehensive art<br />
collection is now part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> leopold<br />
Museum and includes 44 paintings<br />
and some 180 works on paper. <strong>The</strong><br />
Albertina also has numerous Schiele<br />
drawings and watercolours. It also<br />
manages <strong>the</strong> Egon Schiele Archive<br />
which has an extensive collection<br />
<strong>of</strong> documentary materials, letters,<br />
sketchbooks and early works.<br />
Schiele created around 300 paintings<br />
and between two and three<br />
thousand works on paper during his<br />
short <strong>life</strong>. Today <strong>the</strong>y command top<br />
prices. Self-Portrait with Checkered<br />
Shirt, <strong>for</strong> example, was sold in New<br />
York in 2007 <strong>for</strong> USD 11.353 million.<br />
<strong>The</strong> current auction record <strong>for</strong><br />
aSchiele oil painting was posted in<br />
2006, when Einzelne häuser, häuser<br />
mit Bergen fetched USD 22.4 million.
VIENNA’S<br />
STRoNG WoMEN<br />
It’s high time –and now is <strong>the</strong> best<br />
opportunity –toget to know <strong>the</strong>se<br />
influential, individual and exciting<br />
women. Vienna proudly presents:<br />
•VALIE EXPORT (*1940). Amedia<br />
artist who is untiring in her struggle<br />
<strong>for</strong> an equal and gender-neutral<br />
evaluation <strong>of</strong> media <strong>the</strong>mes. In <strong>the</strong><br />
process she interrogates <strong>the</strong> communicative<br />
and cultural codification<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> human body. <strong>The</strong> exhibition<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Belvedere (16 october<br />
2010 to 30 January 2011) brings<br />
toge<strong>the</strong>r more than 40 years <strong>of</strong> her<br />
work including per<strong>for</strong>mances, photography,<br />
film and media installations<br />
in acomprehensive overview<br />
<strong>of</strong> her entire output.<br />
VALIE EXPORT„Einkreisung“ (Encircling), 1976<br />
©VBK, Vienna, 2010<br />
•Kiki Kogelnik (1935-1997). Kogelnik<br />
is considered Austria’s most<br />
important Pop artist, although she<br />
always resisted that label because <strong>of</strong><br />
her European roots. Andy Warhol<br />
and Roy lichtenstein were among<br />
her friends. <strong>The</strong> subtle and joyful<br />
works <strong>of</strong> this exceptional woman<br />
challenge traditional gender portrayals.<br />
“Art comes from artifice”,<br />
she once said. Kunsthalle Wien is<br />
exhibiting Kiki Kogelnik in an international<br />
context as part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
exhibition “Power Up! – Female<br />
Pop Artists” (5 November 2010 to<br />
20 February 2011).<br />
Kiki Kogelnik with Loverboy,<br />
Atelier New York, ca. 1965 ©Kiki Kogelnik<br />
Foundation Wien New York<br />
•Eugenie Schwarzwald (1872–1940).<br />
Schwarzwald was –from 1911 –<strong>the</strong><br />
director <strong>of</strong> Austria’s only school<br />
that prepared girls <strong>for</strong> university.<br />
<strong>The</strong> teaching staff included oskar<br />
Kokoschka, Adolf loos and Arnold<br />
Schönberg. Vicky Baum, Alice<br />
herdan-Zuckmayer, Anna Freud<br />
and helene Weigel were among her<br />
best-known students. She worked<br />
to create a“school <strong>of</strong> joy” under<br />
<strong>the</strong> motto “boredom is poison.”<br />
<strong>The</strong> Jewish Museum Vienna is hosting<br />
aSchwarzwald solo show from<br />
24 November 2010 to March 2011.<br />
•Erika Giovanna Klien (1900-1957),<br />
My Ullmann (1905-1995), Elisabeth<br />
Karlinsky (1905-1994). During<br />
<strong>the</strong> 1920s <strong>the</strong>se three emancipated<br />
women developed Austria’s most<br />
important contribution to <strong>the</strong> international<br />
avant-garde <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> time.<br />
As students at Vienna’s school <strong>for</strong><br />
applied arts (Wiener Kunstgewerbeschule)<br />
under Franz Cizek <strong>the</strong>y<br />
created Viennese Kineticism, an<br />
eclectic mix <strong>of</strong> Expressionism, Cubism,<br />
Constructivism and Futurism.<br />
<strong>The</strong>ir work is on show at <strong>the</strong> Belvedere<br />
from February to June 2011.<br />
•Birgit Jürgenssen (1949-2003). Art<br />
magazine described <strong>the</strong> work <strong>of</strong><br />
Jürgenssen as “exquisite, sophisticated,<br />
elegant” and “chic, even<br />
urbane.” As early as <strong>the</strong> late 1960s<br />
Birgit Jürgenssen began subtly and<br />
subversively questioning social<br />
dogmas and <strong>the</strong> cultural construction<br />
<strong>of</strong> femininity. <strong>The</strong> Bank Austria<br />
Kunst<strong>for</strong>um presents work by<br />
this feminist pioneer from 16 December<br />
2010 to 6March 2011.<br />
•Eva Schlegel (*1960). Schlegel’s<br />
photographs, objects, installations<br />
and architectural interventions<br />
have made her one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most successful<br />
Austrian artists <strong>of</strong> our time.<br />
She has participated at <strong>the</strong> Venice<br />
Biennale on a number <strong>of</strong> occasions.<br />
“In Between” is <strong>the</strong> name Eva<br />
Schlegel has chosen <strong>for</strong> her exhibition<br />
at MAK that runs from 8December<br />
2010 to 1May 2011.<br />
FAVoRITE<br />
SCANDAlS<br />
In Vienna an endearing nickname is<br />
<strong>the</strong> best pro<strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong> acceptance. Sometimes<br />
it is afine line between agreat<br />
scandal and heartfelt love. For example<br />
…<br />
•<strong>The</strong> “House without Eyebrows”.<br />
In 1911 <strong>the</strong> building on Michaeler<br />
Platz caused a sensation because<br />
it dispensed with historistic or Art<br />
Nouveau ornamentation. Even <strong>the</strong><br />
window lintels (<strong>the</strong> “eyebrows”)<br />
were bare. Emperor Franz Joseph,<br />
so <strong>the</strong> story goes, had <strong>the</strong> curtains<br />
in <strong>the</strong> palace across <strong>the</strong> street closed<br />
permanently to shield him from <strong>the</strong><br />
view. Today it is unquestionable<br />
one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most important buildings<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> early Modernist era.<br />
Eva Schlegel, In Between, 2009 ©VBK, Vienna, 2010<br />
Birgit Jürgenssen, Untitled (Self with Small<br />
Fur), 1974 ©Estate <strong>of</strong> Birgit Jürgenssen VBK,<br />
Vienna, 2010<br />
•<strong>The</strong> “Cabbage”. <strong>The</strong> young architect<br />
Joseph Maria olbrich designed<br />
this exhibition space <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> avantgarde<br />
artist group figureheaded by<br />
Gustav Klimt. But when <strong>the</strong> city<br />
fa<strong>the</strong>rs saw <strong>the</strong> designs <strong>the</strong>y withdrew<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fer <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> original site<br />
on <strong>the</strong> Ringstrasse, and only gave<br />
approval <strong>for</strong> a“temporary building<br />
that was to last no more than ten<br />
years”. That was in 1898. Today <strong>the</strong><br />
Secession building is regarded as a<br />
key work <strong>of</strong> Viennese Art Nouveau<br />
or Jugendstil, in particular thanks<br />
to <strong>the</strong> golden floral dome affectionately<br />
known as <strong>the</strong> “cabbage”. It is<br />
now one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city’smost frequently<br />
photographed buildings.<br />
Viennese Modernism and Modernism in Vienna9<br />
Franz Xaver Messerschmidt (1736-1783),<br />
Zweiter Schnabelkopf. Messerschmidt<br />
was apr<strong>of</strong>essor at <strong>the</strong> Vienna Academy<br />
from 1769 to 1774 and created afamous<br />
series <strong>of</strong> 69 “character heads”. Fifty-four<br />
have survived with sixteen original heads<br />
and thirteen plaster casts in <strong>the</strong> Belvedere<br />
collection.<br />
•<strong>The</strong> “Jonas Reindl” (reindl: Viennese<br />
<strong>for</strong> “cooking pot”). Franz Jonas<br />
was Mayor <strong>of</strong> Vienna when this pioneering<br />
public transport exchange<br />
was opened in 1961. <strong>The</strong> tramway<br />
loop and underpass below <strong>the</strong> Ring<br />
helped acquaint Vienna with <strong>the</strong><br />
idea <strong>of</strong> an underground rail system.<br />
<strong>The</strong> shape <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> entry ramp reminded<br />
<strong>the</strong> Viennese <strong>of</strong> acasserole<br />
dish. Today <strong>the</strong> Schottentor station<br />
is a protected historical structure<br />
and around 154,000 passengers use<br />
it <strong>every</strong> day.<br />
•<strong>The</strong> “Dreimäderlhaus” (<strong>The</strong> House<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Three Girls). Awealthy Viennese<br />
family with three attractive<br />
daughters engaged <strong>the</strong> young composer<br />
Franz Schubert as amusic tutor.Asaresult<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>house</strong> at Mölkersteig<br />
1 became a meeting place<br />
<strong>for</strong> Viennese art-lovers, and <strong>the</strong><br />
vivacious young ladies apparently<br />
became popular muses <strong>for</strong> artists.<br />
This was all too much <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> prim<br />
and proper Viennese at <strong>the</strong> beginning<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> nineteenth century. <strong>The</strong><br />
magic <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ladies has survived,<br />
along with <strong>the</strong> <strong>house</strong> that was built<br />
in 1803 on asection <strong>of</strong> Vienna’scity<br />
walls.<br />
Museums at Night. “Vienna, anight in<br />
october and almost 200,000 visitors<br />
at around 100 cultural institutions including<br />
star attractions such as <strong>the</strong> Albertina,<br />
<strong>the</strong> Kunsthistorisches and <strong>the</strong><br />
Natural history Museum as well as<br />
specialist collections like <strong>the</strong> Imperial<br />
Furniture Collection or <strong>the</strong> Funeral<br />
Museum and Torture Museum. <strong>The</strong><br />
long Night <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museums.”
<strong>The</strong> “Markart style”, named after <strong>the</strong><br />
painter Hans Makart (1840–1884),<br />
is not only <strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> an artistic<br />
movement, it is also synonymous<br />
with <strong>the</strong> spirit <strong>of</strong> late 19 th -century<br />
Vienna.<br />
Pomp, plush and abit on top –this<br />
sums up <strong>the</strong> <strong>life</strong> and work <strong>of</strong> aman<br />
who left an indelible mark on Austrian<br />
art in <strong>the</strong> second half <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
19 th century. Makart is widely regarded<br />
as <strong>the</strong> key painter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Ringstrasse<br />
period. Aversatile decorative<br />
artist, successful businessman and<br />
bon vivant, Markart embodied <strong>the</strong><br />
spirit <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Gründerzeit era. <strong>The</strong> Belvedere<br />
is showing a representative<br />
cross-section <strong>of</strong> his work from June to<br />
october 2011.<br />
Makart, who headed <strong>the</strong> school <strong>of</strong><br />
historical painting at <strong>the</strong> Vienna<br />
Academy <strong>of</strong> Fine Arts from 1878,<br />
was heavily influenced by Titian and<br />
Rubens. “Drama, baby!” could have<br />
been his personal motto, as <strong>every</strong>thing<br />
he did had astrong <strong>the</strong>atrical<br />
bent. In 1879 Makart’s reputation<br />
earned him aspecial honor when he<br />
was entrusted with <strong>the</strong> organization<br />
<strong>of</strong> alavish procession –attended by<br />
several hundred people in opulent<br />
costumes –tomark <strong>the</strong> silver wedding<br />
anniversary <strong>of</strong> Emperor Franz<br />
Joseph and Empress Sisi. <strong>The</strong>re is<br />
a statue commemorating <strong>the</strong> artist,<br />
who died in 1884, in <strong>the</strong> Stadtpark<br />
on Parkring. Makart’s influence on<br />
Vienna (and later artists such as<br />
Gustav Klimt) is in evidence along<br />
<strong>the</strong> entire length <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Ringstrasse<br />
boulevard.<br />
Hans Makart’sportraits, such as this one <strong>of</strong> his<br />
favorite sitter,his cousin Clothide Beer (ca. 1874),<br />
shaped <strong>the</strong> ideal <strong>of</strong> female beauty <strong>of</strong> his age.<br />
A<br />
STREET,<br />
AN ERA,<br />
A FEElING<br />
This renaissance costume, designed by Hans<br />
Makart and Franz Gaul (shown today at<br />
<strong>the</strong> Austrian <strong>The</strong>ater Museum) was worn<br />
by Charlotte Wolter at <strong>the</strong> H<strong>of</strong>burg<strong>the</strong>ater<br />
on 10 May 1879. <strong>The</strong> actress was famed <strong>for</strong><br />
her costumes which were always her own.<br />
Makart’sportrait <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> celebrated diva –<br />
currently in <strong>the</strong> Wien Museum –became an<br />
icon <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Viennese belle époque.
PAlACE lIVING,<br />
ThEN AND NoW<br />
Once home to <strong>the</strong> nobility and <strong>the</strong><br />
rich, most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> palaces that line <strong>the</strong><br />
Ringstrasse now serve very different<br />
purposes, as illustrated by <strong>the</strong> examples<br />
below.<br />
on 20 December 1857, Emperor<br />
Franz Joseph approved <strong>the</strong> construction<br />
<strong>of</strong> anew showpiece boulevard<br />
<strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> capital. In <strong>the</strong> decades that followed<br />
<strong>the</strong> opulent Ringstrasse boulevard<br />
took shape. This also triggered<br />
a rush among <strong>the</strong> aristocracy and<br />
upper echelons <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> middle class<br />
to be among <strong>the</strong> first to build agrand<br />
<strong>house</strong> at this new top address. And<br />
<strong>the</strong>re <strong>the</strong>y remained until <strong>the</strong> end<br />
<strong>of</strong> empire called time on <strong>the</strong>ir dolce<br />
vita. <strong>The</strong> original owners are mostly<br />
long <strong>for</strong>gotten, but <strong>the</strong> palaces are<br />
still standing, and now have awide<br />
variety <strong>of</strong> occupants.<br />
Archduke Ludwig Viktor’s palace<br />
on <strong>the</strong> corner <strong>of</strong> Schubertring and<br />
Schwarzenbergplatz is today home to<br />
<strong>the</strong> Kasino am Schwarzenbergplatz.<br />
Constructed between 1863 and 1866,<br />
<strong>the</strong> building now <strong>house</strong>s one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
stages <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> famed Vienna Burg<strong>the</strong>ater.<br />
Astone’sthrow away, at Schwarzenbergplatz<br />
2, is <strong>the</strong> Palais Wiener von<br />
Welten.<strong>The</strong> space in front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> palace<br />
on <strong>the</strong> Ringstrasse is particularly<br />
interesting as it contains Vienna’s<br />
smallest vineyard, which measures<br />
just afew square meters. Each year<br />
NATURE AND ART,<br />
SIDE BY SIDE<br />
<strong>The</strong> imposing twin buildings that<br />
stand opposite one ano<strong>the</strong>r on <strong>the</strong><br />
Ring are among <strong>the</strong> boulevard’s best<br />
known landmarks. <strong>The</strong> Natural history<br />
Museum (NhM) and Kunsthistorisches<br />
Museum (KhM), built to<br />
plans by architects Gottfried Semper<br />
and Karl Freiherr von hasenauer,<br />
opened in 1889 and 1891, respectively.<br />
<strong>The</strong> 16 million bricks used to<br />
build <strong>the</strong> Natural history Museum<br />
were all supplied by <strong>the</strong> famous Drasche<br />
brickworks in <strong>the</strong> south <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
City.<br />
<strong>The</strong>se two museums are an Aladdin’s<br />
cave <strong>of</strong> treasures. here are just afew<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> highlights:<br />
Once astock exchange<br />
trading room and <strong>the</strong>n<br />
asports venue, today<br />
<strong>the</strong> Grosser Ferstelsaal<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Palais Ferstel is<br />
one <strong>of</strong> Vienna’sfinest<br />
halls.<br />
<strong>the</strong> mayor <strong>of</strong> Vienna harvests <strong>the</strong><br />
grapes in person; <strong>the</strong>y yield around<br />
50 bottles <strong>of</strong> wine.<br />
Palais Wer<strong>the</strong>im (built from 1864–<br />
1868) is directly opposite. In 1910 it<br />
was trans<strong>for</strong>med into an <strong>of</strong>fice and<br />
residential building, and in 1977 it<br />
welcomed <strong>the</strong> first Austrian branch<br />
<strong>of</strong> an international burger chain.<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>for</strong>mer Palais Lieben-Auspitz on<br />
Dr.-Karl-lueger-Ring, whose <strong>for</strong>mer<br />
residents include writer Berta Zuckerkandl,<br />
is definitely worth taking time<br />
over.<strong>The</strong> ground floor is home to <strong>the</strong><br />
famous Café Landtmann, <strong>the</strong> perfect<br />
place <strong>for</strong> adelicious pastry washed<br />
down with a mélange or perhaps<br />
a kleiner brauner. Famous patrons<br />
over <strong>the</strong> years include Gustav Mahler<br />
and Sigmund Freud. With wonderful<br />
views <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Burg<strong>the</strong>ater and City<br />
hall it is ideal <strong>for</strong> aquick break during<br />
atour <strong>of</strong> Ringstrasse.<br />
www.landtmann.at<br />
•<strong>The</strong> KhM has 12 paintings by<br />
Dutch Renaissance painter Pieter<br />
Bruegel <strong>the</strong> Elder –<strong>the</strong> world‘s largest<br />
and most important collection <strong>of</strong><br />
his works.<br />
•<strong>The</strong> Collection <strong>of</strong> Greek and Roman<br />
antiquities, featuring sculptures,<br />
bronzes, glassware and<br />
golden treasures from <strong>the</strong> third<br />
century BC to 1,000 AD, is one <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> most important <strong>of</strong> its kind. <strong>The</strong><br />
KhM’s Egyptian and Near Eastern<br />
Collection, with its holdings <strong>of</strong> antiquities<br />
from <strong>the</strong> old Kingdom,<br />
is among <strong>the</strong> largest <strong>of</strong> its kind in<br />
<strong>the</strong> world. <strong>The</strong> NhM has one <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> largest collections <strong>of</strong> “types” <strong>of</strong><br />
any museum in <strong>the</strong> world. Atype<br />
One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most striking buildings on <strong>the</strong> Ringstrasse: <strong>the</strong> State Opera<br />
House, built between 1861–1869 to plans by August<br />
Sicard von Sicardsburg and Eduard van der Nüll.<br />
is defined as aspecimen or series <strong>of</strong><br />
specimens on which ataxonomic<br />
species or subspecies is based –in<br />
some ways comparable to <strong>the</strong> international<br />
prototype meter bar. <strong>The</strong><br />
NhM’s millipede collection alone<br />
comprises more than 2,000 types.<br />
While not all specimens are on display,<br />
<strong>the</strong>y are available to researchers<br />
all over <strong>the</strong> world.<br />
•<strong>The</strong> 50 perfectly executed, true-to<strong>life</strong><br />
glass models <strong>of</strong> invertebrates<br />
completed by leopold and Rudolf<br />
Blaschka <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> NhM between <strong>the</strong><br />
1860s and <strong>the</strong> 1930s are aunique<br />
highlight.<br />
www.khm.at,<br />
www.nhm-wien.ac.at<br />
Traditionally held<br />
in May at City Hall,<br />
<strong>the</strong> Life Ball is a<br />
celebration <strong>of</strong> <strong>life</strong> and<br />
love. Each year around<br />
40,000 people attend<br />
<strong>the</strong> opening ceremony<br />
which takes on <strong>the</strong><br />
section <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Ring<br />
between City Hall and<br />
<strong>the</strong> Burg<strong>the</strong>ater.<br />
VIENNA’S<br />
STUNNING<br />
TRAFFIC ARTERY<br />
Over <strong>the</strong> years, <strong>the</strong> Ringstrasse has<br />
become one <strong>of</strong> Vienna’s busiest thoroughfares.<br />
1868: <strong>The</strong> first Wiener Tramway-Gesellschaft<br />
horse drawn streetcars start<br />
running from Stubenring to Schottentor.Itonly<br />
takes ayear <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> service<br />
to circle <strong>the</strong> whole Ring.<br />
1898: <strong>The</strong> tram line is electrified. As<br />
<strong>the</strong> Emperor refuses to allow <strong>the</strong> Ring<br />
to be defaced by overhead power<br />
lines <strong>the</strong> locomotive cars have to be<br />
battery powered. 1901: Aground-level<br />
power supply is introduced.<br />
1915: overhead power lines are installed<br />
after all, as batteries and power<br />
rails turn out to cause too many<br />
operational problems.<br />
1926: <strong>The</strong> steady growth <strong>of</strong> car traffic<br />
necessitates <strong>the</strong> installation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
city’s first traffic lights at <strong>the</strong> opera<br />
crossroads (intersection <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Ringstrasse<br />
and Kärntner Strasse).<br />
“<strong>The</strong> Ringstrasse<br />
shows how important<br />
a good backdrop<br />
can be when<br />
it comes to largescale<br />
parades.<br />
Events such as <strong>the</strong><br />
Rainbow Parade on<br />
2 July, <strong>the</strong> Vienna<br />
City Marathon in<br />
April with 30,000<br />
runners, <strong>the</strong> Street<br />
Festival in August<br />
with 10,000 dance<br />
lovers, and <strong>the</strong> harley<br />
Days on 14 May<br />
with 1,500 bikers<br />
are truly unique.”<br />
one street, one era, one feeling<br />
11<br />
1929: <strong>The</strong> city’sfirst pedestrian crossing<br />
is marked out at this intersection<br />
as well as at <strong>the</strong> one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Ring and<br />
Wollzeile.<br />
1955: <strong>The</strong> opernpassage becomes <strong>the</strong><br />
city’sfirst pedestrian underpass.<br />
1972: <strong>The</strong> Ringstrasse becomes oneway,<br />
with traffic traveling clockwise.<br />
2009: <strong>The</strong> Vienna Ring Tram is<br />
launched. This special tram service<br />
<strong>for</strong> tourists circles <strong>the</strong> Ring <strong>every</strong><br />
half hour, taking just over 23 minutes<br />
<strong>for</strong> afull circuit. Passengers are<br />
given background in<strong>for</strong>mation on <strong>the</strong><br />
various sights via monitors and headphones.<br />
<strong>The</strong> audio guides are in seven<br />
languages (English, French, German,<br />
Italian, Japanese, Russian and<br />
Spanish). AViennese dialect version<br />
has also recently been introduced.<br />
A fiacre is <strong>the</strong> perfect way to explore<br />
<strong>the</strong> Ringstrasse at leisure. Pick-up<br />
points <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> famous horse-drawn<br />
carriages include <strong>the</strong> h<strong>of</strong>burg and<br />
Stephansplatz.
DISCoVER<br />
VIENNA<br />
... BY BUS<br />
AND TRAM<br />
•Want to explore all <strong>the</strong> main sights<br />
<strong>the</strong> easy way, by bus? hop-on,<br />
hop-<strong>of</strong>f buses are <strong>the</strong> answer.<br />
www.viennasightseeing.at<br />
www.redbuscitytours.at<br />
www.cityrama.at<br />
•like to experience Vienna’sshowpiece<br />
boulevard aboard a streetcar,<br />
with an audiovisual guide?<br />
Take <strong>the</strong> Vienna Ring Tram.<br />
www.wienerlinien.at<br />
•Want to discover contemporary<br />
architecture from <strong>the</strong> com<strong>for</strong>t <strong>of</strong> a<br />
luxury 15-seater minibus with onboard<br />
crew and catering? Take <strong>the</strong><br />
Donau City to T-Center tour from<br />
<strong>the</strong> Architekturzentrum Wien.<br />
www.azw.at<br />
... BY BoAT<br />
•like to cruise <strong>the</strong> Danube and <strong>the</strong><br />
Danube Canal? Take a sightseeing<br />
tour on board <strong>the</strong> DDSG Blue<br />
Danube cruisers (April–october).<br />
<strong>The</strong>med cruises with live music<br />
and buffet available.<br />
www.ddsg-blue-danube.at<br />
•Fancy atrip on <strong>the</strong> oldest Danube<br />
passenger ship?<strong>The</strong> MS ANA entered<br />
service in 1894, as apleasure<br />
cruiser <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> Viennese nobility.<br />
Available <strong>for</strong> hire today:<br />
www.museumsschiff.at/rundfahrten.html<br />
•Want to explore <strong>the</strong> scenery <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Donau Auen national park? Travel<br />
direct from <strong>the</strong> city centre aboard<br />
<strong>the</strong> National Park Boat (May–<br />
october).<br />
www.wien-vienna.at/bootstaxi1.<br />
php<br />
•like to row down <strong>the</strong> old Danube?<br />
Boat hire until 11 p.m. (wea<strong>the</strong>r<br />
permitting); romantic full moon<br />
trips.<br />
www.alte-donau.info<br />
•Dream <strong>of</strong> discovering Bratislava?<br />
Journey from Vienna to Bratislava<br />
on <strong>the</strong> Twin City liner in just<br />
75 minutes.<br />
www.twincityliner.com<br />
... oN WhEElS<br />
•Citybikes are available from more<br />
than 60 docking stations throughout<br />
<strong>the</strong> city –and <strong>the</strong> first hour<br />
is free <strong>of</strong> charge! All you need is<br />
acredit card or aCitybike Tourist<br />
Card.<br />
www.citybikewien.at<br />
•FAXI is <strong>the</strong> environmentallyfriendly<br />
bike taxi that cuts through<br />
<strong>the</strong> city in double quick time.<br />
<strong>The</strong>se rickshaw-like vehicles can<br />
also be booked <strong>for</strong> city sightseeing<br />
trips.<br />
www.faxi.at<br />
•Experience Vienna at aleisurely<br />
2.7 kilometers per hour on <strong>the</strong><br />
Giant Ferris Wheel.<strong>The</strong> 64.75-meter-tall<br />
wheel <strong>of</strong>fers unique views<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city.<br />
www.wienerriesenrad.com<br />
... BY hoRSE<br />
AND CARRIAGE<br />
•Vienna tours unchanged since<br />
imperial days start from six fiacre<br />
stands in <strong>the</strong> historic city center.<br />
<strong>The</strong> trips take 20 (city center only)<br />
or 40 minutes (around <strong>the</strong> Ringstrasse<br />
and through <strong>the</strong> old town).<br />
Custom tours, and awheelchair<br />
friendly fiacre are also available.<br />
... oN FooT AND<br />
WITh ATWIST<br />
•Modern<br />
Empress Elisabeth and Mozart are<br />
your guides on acity tour with a<br />
difference. Take a 35-stop tour<br />
<strong>of</strong> Vienna with aspecial iGuide<br />
pocket computer to show you <strong>the</strong><br />
way. Sisi and Mozart <strong>walk</strong> you<br />
through <strong>the</strong> city, sharing <strong>the</strong>ir take<br />
on Vienna. <strong>The</strong> tour lasts around<br />
three hours, including <strong>walk</strong>ing between<br />
features.<br />
http://de.itour.de<br />
•Macabre<br />
“From Imperial to Paupers’ Funerals”<br />
tour gives an insight into <strong>the</strong><br />
city’s morbid side. <strong>The</strong> magnificent<br />
sarcophaguses <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Imperial<br />
Vault and atour <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bestattungsmuseum<br />
(Funeral Museum)<br />
are among <strong>the</strong> highlights. <strong>of</strong> special<br />
interest: ahatch-bottom c<strong>of</strong>fin<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 18 th century.<br />
www.stadtfuehrungen.at<br />
•Seamy<br />
<strong>The</strong> Spittelberg district outside<br />
<strong>the</strong> old city walls was once better<br />
known as a“temple <strong>of</strong> Venus” –<br />
58 <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 138 buildings <strong>house</strong>d<br />
dive bars. <strong>The</strong> area’s trans<strong>for</strong>mation<br />
from ared-light district to one<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most enchanting parts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
city is documented in <strong>the</strong> “Den <strong>of</strong><br />
Iniquity to Suburban Gem” tour.<br />
www.stadtfuehrungen.at<br />
•Seedy<br />
Josefine Mutzenbacher was <strong>the</strong><br />
greatest courtesan <strong>of</strong> 19 th century<br />
Vienna, albeit only as afictional<br />
figure. her “memoirs” are attributed<br />
to Felix Salten, author <strong>of</strong><br />
world best-seller Bambi. This special<br />
tour (unsuitable <strong>for</strong> children<br />
under 14) takes alook at Vienna’s<br />
seedier side.<br />
www.wienfuehrung.com<br />
•Mystical<br />
<strong>The</strong> Da Vinci Code in Vienna? <strong>The</strong><br />
city is full <strong>of</strong> myths and legends<br />
that are just waiting to be uncovered.<br />
Amosaic copy <strong>of</strong> Da Vinci’s<br />
last Supper with all its secret messages;<br />
stories <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> holy Grail; secret<br />
symbols at <strong>the</strong> ca<strong>the</strong>dral, and<br />
<strong>the</strong> blood line <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> habsburgs are<br />
just some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> highlights <strong>of</strong> this<br />
tour.<br />
www.wienfuehrung.com
ANEW TAKE oN<br />
VIENNA?<br />
•Dancing<br />
learn (or perfect) <strong>the</strong> Viennese<br />
waltz in an intensive course in<br />
its city <strong>of</strong> origin: <strong>the</strong> Rueff dance<br />
school runs waltz courses <strong>for</strong><br />
visitors virtually <strong>every</strong> day. Even<br />
one-time students are welcomed<br />
with open arms. lessons in German<br />
and English, no registration<br />
required.<br />
www.vienna.info<br />
•Playing<br />
<strong>The</strong> maze at Schönbrunn has been<br />
afavorite spot <strong>for</strong> young and old to<br />
play since <strong>the</strong> days <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> baroque<br />
era. Completed in 1720, <strong>the</strong> maze<br />
was progressively scaled back until<br />
it was abandoned in 1892. In<br />
1999 it reopened with an area <strong>of</strong><br />
2,700 square meters –agreat place<br />
<strong>for</strong> visitors <strong>of</strong> all ages to explore<br />
and have agood time.<br />
www.kaiserkinder.at<br />
•C<strong>of</strong>fee tasting<br />
learn <strong>the</strong> high art <strong>of</strong> <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> drinking<br />
at Schönbrunn Palace. Regular<br />
<strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> tasting events are held amid<br />
<strong>the</strong> regal splendor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> orangery.<br />
Pr<strong>of</strong>essional <strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee</strong> tasters share<br />
brewing and serving secrets.<br />
www.lavera.at<br />
VIENNA CARD<br />
over 210 discounts and unlimited<br />
travel on <strong>the</strong> city’s underground,<br />
bus and tram network <strong>for</strong><br />
72 hours –your personal pass <strong>for</strong><br />
just EUR 18.50.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Vienna Card is <strong>the</strong> ideal way<br />
to discover <strong>the</strong> city. It includes unlimited<br />
travel on <strong>the</strong> Wiener linien<br />
public transportation network <strong>for</strong><br />
72 hours, and over 210 discounts<br />
and concessions at selected museums,<br />
tourist attractions, exhibitions,<br />
<strong>the</strong>aters, concerts, stores, cafés, restaurants<br />
and heuriger wine taverns.<br />
<strong>The</strong> 120-page coupon booklet that<br />
comes free with <strong>the</strong> Vienna Card is<br />
packed with in<strong>for</strong>mation on how<br />
to get <strong>the</strong> most out <strong>of</strong> your ticket.<br />
Available <strong>for</strong> EUR 18.50 from <strong>the</strong><br />
tourist in<strong>for</strong>mation <strong>of</strong>fice, hotels,<br />
Wiener linien ticket counters and<br />
<strong>the</strong> Vienna Card website,<br />
www.wienkarte.at<br />
INFoRMATIoN<br />
Online<br />
•www.vienna.info<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>of</strong>ficial web travel guide <strong>for</strong><br />
Vienna, features in<strong>for</strong>mation on<br />
sights, events and online hotel<br />
reservations<br />
•Mobile internet:<br />
m.vienna.info<br />
•Facebook:<br />
www.facebook.com/<br />
ViennaTouristBoard<br />
•YouTube:<br />
www.youtube.com/ViennaTB<br />
•www.vienna.at<br />
<strong>The</strong> Vienna City<br />
Council website<br />
Telephone/e-mail<br />
•Wien-hotels &Info<br />
Tel. (+43 1) 24 555<br />
Fax (+43 1) 24 555-666<br />
9a.m. –7p.m. daily<br />
E-mail: info@vienna.info<br />
Face to face<br />
•Tourist Info Vienna<br />
Corner <strong>of</strong> Albertinaplatz and<br />
Maysedergasse,<br />
1010 Vienna,<br />
behind <strong>the</strong> State opera <strong>house</strong><br />
9a.m. to 7p.m. daily<br />
In<strong>for</strong>mation, hotel reservations,<br />
Vienna Card, city maps, brochures,<br />
pamphlets, souvenirs.<br />
Ticket sales by Jirsa ticketing<br />
<strong>of</strong>fices.<br />
•Tourist in<strong>for</strong>mation at Vienna<br />
International Airport<br />
Arrivals hall<br />
6a.m. to 11 p.m. daily<br />
CREDITS<br />
Published by<br />
Vienna Tourist Board<br />
obere Augartenstrasse 40,<br />
1020 Vienna<br />
www.vienna.info<br />
Idea and editorial:<br />
Vienna Tourist Board,<br />
Andrea Kostner; Partners in PR<br />
Copy<br />
Paul Ferstel, Susanne Kapeller,<br />
Susanna Nikel, Susanne<br />
Schneeberger,Robert Seydel<br />
Picture editor<br />
Anna-Elisabeth Menz<br />
Art direction and layout<br />
Christian Begusch (JvM/Donau)<br />
PICTURE<br />
CREDITS<br />
Cover<br />
WTV/Peter Rigaud<br />
Page 2<br />
WTV/F3<br />
Page 3<br />
(l-r)<br />
WTV/Claudio Alessandri, WTV/KhM/Peter Rigaud, WTV/<br />
lois lammerhuber and MAXUM, all o<strong>the</strong>r images: WTV/<br />
Peter Rigaud<br />
Page 4<br />
(l-r)<br />
WTV/Peter Rigaud, WTV/Gerhard Weinkirn, WTV/ Karl<br />
Thomas, MAK/Georg Mayer<br />
Page 5<br />
(l-r)<br />
Bundesmobilienverwaltung/h<strong>of</strong>mobiliendepot/Fritz Simak,<br />
WTV/Peter Rigaud, Blühendes Konfekt, Xocolat/Coppeneur,<br />
WTV/Peter Rigaud, WTV/Peter Koller,WTV/Peter Koller<br />
Page 6<br />
WTV/Peter Rigaud, WTV/hertha hurnaus<br />
Page 7<br />
(l-r)<br />
WTV/hertha hurnaus, WTV/MAXUM, SKB/lois lammerhuber,WTV/Willfried<br />
Gredler-oxenbauer,Bundesgärten<br />
Schönbrunn<br />
Page 8<br />
Egon Schiele, Four Trees, 1917/Belvedere, Vienna, Egon<br />
Schiele, Self-Portrait Pulling Cheek /1910 Albertina, Vienna<br />
Page 9<br />
WTV/Peter Koller,WTV/Peter Koller,WTV/hedwig Zdrazil,<br />
Valie Export, Einkreisung, 1976/©VBK, Vienna, 2010, Eva<br />
Schlegel, In Between, 2009/©VBK, Wien, 2010, Kiki Kogelnik<br />
mit loverboy, Atelier New York, ca. 1965, Kiki Kogelnik<br />
Foundation Wien New York, ©Kiki Kogelnik, Birgit Jürgenssen,<br />
untitled, 1974 ©Nachlass Birgit Jürgenssen/VBK, Vienna, 2010,<br />
Franz Xaver Messerschmidt, zweiter Schnabelkopf ©Belvedere,<br />
Vienna<br />
Page 10<br />
hans Markart, portrait <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> artist’scousin Clothilde Beer,<br />
1880, Belvedere, Vienna, Austrian <strong>The</strong>atre Museum (KhM with<br />
MVK and öTM)<br />
Page 11<br />
(l-r)<br />
Palais Ferstel, <strong>life</strong> Ball/Jürgen hammerschmied, <strong>life</strong> Ball/<br />
Andreas h. Bitesnich, WTV/F3, WTV/Karl Thomas<br />
Pages 12/13:<br />
WTV/Popp &hackner<br />
Page 14<br />
WTV/ Popp &hackner,WTV/Claudio Alessandri<br />
Page 15<br />
(l-r)<br />
WTV/Karl Thomas, WTV/Gerhard Weinkirn, WTV/Peter<br />
Rigaud, WTV/Robert ostmark, WTV/Peter Rigaud, Staud’s/ Johannes<br />
Kittel, WTV/lukas Beck, stock.chng/Image ID: 1266300<br />
Page 16<br />
Schloß Schönbrunn Kultur-und Betriebsgesmbh, WTV/<br />
MAXUM<br />
Page 17<br />
(l-r)<br />
Children’sboots worn by Empress Elisabeth/Schloß Schönbrunn<br />
Kultur-und Betriebsgesmbh., WTV/Peter Rigaud, ÖW/<br />
Wiesenh<strong>of</strong>er,ÖW/Trumler,Albertina, Wien, WTV/Gerhard<br />
Weinkirn<br />
Page 18<br />
lukas Beck<br />
Page 19<br />
(l-r)<br />
WTV/Bryan Duffy, WTV/Karl Thomas, WTV/Karl Thomas,<br />
Ismael Ivo, ImPulsTanz, WTV/heinz Angermayr,WTV/Willfried<br />
Gredler-ochsenbauer,www.fotoschuster.com<br />
Page 20<br />
Both images WTV/Peter Rigaud<br />
Page 21<br />
lobmeyr,Peter Rigaud, Foto/Sam Scott Schiavo, WTV/Peter<br />
Rigaud, FSB/Eoos, mano design, MAK/Gerald Zugmann, mano<br />
design, Marlowe Design, WTV/Robert omark<br />
Page 22<br />
WTV/ heinz Angermayr,WTV/MAXUM<br />
Page 23<br />
WTV/lois lammerhuber,WTV/MAXUM
VIENNA<br />
TASTES...<br />
…<strong>of</strong>young wines and<br />
old traditions<br />
Wine is as much apart <strong>of</strong> Vienna<br />
as apple strudel or Sachertorte. It<br />
shapes <strong>the</strong> cityscape and is <strong>the</strong> focus<br />
<strong>of</strong> countless events each year.<br />
With some 700 hectares <strong>of</strong> vineyards<br />
within <strong>the</strong> city limits, wine is<br />
central to <strong>the</strong> Viennese way <strong>of</strong> <strong>life</strong>.<br />
local wine is traditionally <strong>the</strong> preserve<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city’s wine taverns, or<br />
heurigers. only abona fide heuriger<br />
that serves Viennese wine from its<br />
own vineyard is permitted to hang<br />
a green sprig <strong>of</strong> pine outside and<br />
display <strong>the</strong> words “Ausg’steckt”<br />
on aboard to show that it is open.<br />
Vienna is largely known <strong>for</strong> white<br />
wines, and Grüner Veltliner is <strong>the</strong><br />
most common variety. <strong>The</strong> Viennese<br />
use it to make <strong>the</strong>ir beloved “Gspritzter”,<br />
or white wine spritzers, which<br />
is simply half aglass <strong>of</strong> wine, topped<br />
up with sparkling water. When <strong>the</strong><br />
temperatures soar it is time to switch<br />
to a “Sommerspritzer”, with more<br />
water than wine –<strong>the</strong> perfect excuse<br />
<strong>for</strong> ordering that extra glass …<br />
AVIENNESE<br />
INSTITUTIoN<br />
<strong>The</strong> Gemischter Satz or blended wine<br />
is aspecialty that can only be found<br />
in Vienna. It stems from traditional<br />
growing methods that go back along<br />
way. In <strong>the</strong> past, different varieties <strong>of</strong><br />
wine would be planted side by side to<br />
reduce <strong>the</strong> risk <strong>of</strong> damage by pests or<br />
bad wea<strong>the</strong>r.<strong>The</strong> result was aunique<br />
<strong>house</strong> wine. Today ageneration <strong>of</strong><br />
young wine growers is breathing<br />
new <strong>life</strong> into this tradition and taking<br />
<strong>the</strong> Gemischter Satz to new heights.<br />
<strong>The</strong>se historic techniques are now<br />
being employed in about one-tenth <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> city‘s total winegrowing area.<br />
This is <strong>the</strong> sign that<br />
local wine from <strong>the</strong><br />
grower’s own vineyard<br />
is<br />
on sale at <strong>the</strong> tavern.
oFF To ThE<br />
hEURIGER FoR A<br />
GlASS oF WINE<br />
<strong>The</strong> heuriger is aViennese institution.<br />
<strong>The</strong> recipe <strong>for</strong> success is wine<br />
from <strong>the</strong> tavern’s own vineyards,<br />
delicious snacks and abeautiful garden.<br />
Patrons come from all <strong>walk</strong>s <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>life</strong>, from families with small children<br />
to pensioners, students and<br />
captains <strong>of</strong> industry.<br />
•Traditional: Kierlinger is aheuriger<br />
cast in <strong>the</strong> traditional mold. Ahistoric<br />
setting and aconvivial atmosphere<br />
in <strong>the</strong> 19 th district.<br />
www.kierlinger.at<br />
•Chic: Wiltschko in Mauer is anextgeneration<br />
heuriger with aloungelike<br />
feel (23 rd district).<br />
www.weinbau-wiltschko.at<br />
•Organic: Weingut hajszan on <strong>the</strong><br />
Nussberg hill in <strong>the</strong> 19 th district<br />
serves its own organic wine.<br />
www.hajszan.com<br />
•Purist: Clear lines, plain design<br />
and light snacks in <strong>the</strong> heuriger<br />
tradition at Göbel in Stammersdorf<br />
(21 st district).<br />
www.weinbaugoebel.at<br />
•Rustic: heuriger Wolff in <strong>the</strong><br />
19 th district is apicture <strong>of</strong> old-world,<br />
cozy charm, with atiled oven, candlelit<br />
tables and adelightful garden.<br />
www.wienerheuriger.at<br />
•Young: Zum Zawodsky in <strong>the</strong><br />
19 th district is popular among a<br />
young, urbane clientele. Beautiful<br />
views <strong>of</strong> Vienna. www.zawodsky.at<br />
WINE AND<br />
SNAIlS<br />
Vienna has along tradition <strong>of</strong> snail<br />
breeding. <strong>The</strong> Austrian capital was<br />
aMecca <strong>for</strong> lovers <strong>of</strong> escargots <strong>right</strong><br />
up until <strong>the</strong> early 20 th century. Snails<br />
were aparticularly popular lenten<br />
food. <strong>The</strong>re was even aspecial escargot<br />
market behind <strong>the</strong> Peterskirche.<br />
Rumored to have aphrodisiac properties,<br />
escargots from <strong>the</strong> vineyards<br />
were also dubbed “Viennese oysters.”<br />
Market traders sold boiled and<br />
candied snails as snacks, and <strong>the</strong>y<br />
also came deep fried, or wrapped in<br />
bacon and served with weinkraut<br />
(sauerkraut with apples).<br />
A number <strong>of</strong> ambitious cooks are<br />
now bringing <strong>the</strong> escargot back on<br />
to <strong>the</strong> city’smenus. Snail tastings are<br />
just one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> highlights <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> annual<br />
Genussfestival held at <strong>the</strong> Stadtpark<br />
in early May. (Not only) <strong>for</strong> escargot<br />
aficionados:<br />
•Artner am Franziskanerplatz:<br />
www.artner.co.at<br />
•Stadtgasthaus Eisvogel:<br />
www.stadtgasthaus-eisvogel.at<br />
•Steirereck im Stadtpark:<br />
www.steirereck.at<br />
•Schwarzes Kameel:<br />
www.kameel.at<br />
•Gaumenspiel:<br />
www.gaumenspiel.at<br />
•Restaurant Vestibül:<br />
www.vestibuel.at<br />
DIVERSITY AT ThE<br />
NASChMARKT<br />
Although vegetables play something<br />
<strong>of</strong> a supporting role in traditional<br />
Viennese cuisine, enough fresh produce<br />
is grown in <strong>the</strong> city to feed <strong>the</strong><br />
entire population if need be. Agricultural<br />
land devoted to fruit, vegetable,<br />
wine and cereal growing occupies<br />
some 17 percent <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> area <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
city. <strong>The</strong> market gardeners supply cucumbers,<br />
tomatoes, bell peppers and<br />
lettuce to Vienna’s markets, where<br />
<strong>the</strong>y are sold alongside specialties<br />
sourced from countries around <strong>the</strong><br />
globe. Vienna’s markets are awhole<br />
world in <strong>the</strong>mselves, and always<br />
worth avisit. <strong>The</strong> best known is <strong>the</strong><br />
Naschmarkt. With around 120 stalls,<br />
bars and restaurants this market has<br />
it all, from Viennese to Indian and<br />
from Vietnamese to Italian.<br />
<strong>The</strong> local population’s love <strong>of</strong> food<br />
can take strange <strong>for</strong>ms. Where else<br />
would an orchestra come up with<br />
<strong>the</strong> idea <strong>of</strong> per<strong>for</strong>ming on flutes made<br />
from carrots, bass drums fashioned<br />
from pumpkins and celeriac bongos?<br />
<strong>The</strong> 1 st Vienna Vegetable Orchestra,<br />
<strong>for</strong>med in 1998, is certainly good <strong>for</strong> a<br />
surprise. www.gemueseorchester.org<br />
MAPPING ThE<br />
WoRlD oF<br />
ThE WIENER<br />
SChNITZEl<br />
When it comes to deep frying, no one<br />
can hold acandle to Viennese cuisine.<br />
<strong>The</strong> wiener schnitzel is acase in<br />
point. Figlmüller dishes up <strong>the</strong> city’s<br />
biggest schnitzel –itis34centimeters<br />
across on average, and contains<br />
250 grams <strong>of</strong> pork. oK, atrue wiener<br />
schnitzel is actually made <strong>of</strong> veal,<br />
but all <strong>the</strong> schnitzels at Figlmüller<br />
are tenderized by hand, and specialist<br />
schnitzel beaters are hired <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
purpose. An installation by artist Ken<br />
lum in <strong>the</strong> Karlsplatz Passage (www.<br />
koer.or.at) reveals how many schnitzels<br />
have been eaten in <strong>the</strong> city since<br />
<strong>the</strong> start <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> year on an lED display<br />
that is updated each day. <strong>The</strong><br />
total <strong>for</strong> 2009 reached 21 million.<br />
Viennese cuisine and Vienna’s wines... 15<br />
APPlE STRUDEl<br />
DIPloMA<br />
<strong>The</strong> apple strudel is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> bestknown<br />
dishes in <strong>the</strong> Viennese cuisine<br />
repertoire. An apple strudel<br />
master class at Schönbrunn Palace’s<br />
Café Residenz shows how it’s done.<br />
Each year <strong>the</strong> café processes some<br />
1.5 metric tons <strong>of</strong> apples. <strong>The</strong>re are<br />
apple strudel seminars <strong>for</strong> budding<br />
bakers hoping to graduate with adiploma<br />
and <strong>the</strong> title <strong>of</strong> Viennese Strudel<br />
Baker.<br />
www.cafe-residenz.at<br />
“Can wine exude ‘youthful charm’? In Vienna it<br />
can. Each fall <strong>the</strong> ‘Junger Wiener’ provides a<strong>for</strong>etaste<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> new vintage. This fruity young wine is<br />
unveiled at various events across <strong>the</strong> capital at <strong>the</strong><br />
end <strong>of</strong> october.highly recommended.”<br />
www.wienerwein.at<br />
Old established<br />
Viennese firm<br />
Staud preserves<br />
fruits<br />
andveg<br />
etables. <strong>The</strong> range<br />
includes<br />
fruity<br />
jams, pickled<br />
vegetables and<br />
syrups. <strong>The</strong><br />
prod-prod- ucts are typically<br />
Viennese, and in<br />
demand all over<br />
<strong>the</strong> world. You<br />
can taste <strong>the</strong>m at<br />
Staud’s Pavillon<br />
at <strong>the</strong> Brunnen- Brunnen-<br />
markt market.
DREAMS<br />
AND REAlITY<br />
<strong>The</strong> fact that Vienna is such alivable<br />
city is perhaps because it strikes exactly<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>right</strong> balance between big<br />
and small –albeit notalways entirely<br />
<strong>of</strong> its own free will.<br />
Schönbrunn Palace and <strong>the</strong> h<strong>of</strong>burg<br />
stand out among all <strong>the</strong> city’s grand<br />
buildings as bastions <strong>of</strong> imperial<br />
power. <strong>The</strong>se mighty and splendid<br />
buildings draw several million visitors<br />
each year. But if <strong>the</strong> imperial<br />
builders had had <strong>the</strong>ir way each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
habsburgs’ residences would have<br />
been still more imposing. Shortage <strong>of</strong><br />
cash ultimately led to <strong>the</strong> conclusion<br />
that sometimes less is more.<br />
If it had been built to <strong>the</strong> original<br />
plans Schönbrunn Palace would<br />
have been larger than Versailles, and<br />
at <strong>the</strong> time this would have been seen<br />
as ademonstration <strong>of</strong> power. For all<br />
<strong>the</strong> centuries-old rivalry between <strong>the</strong><br />
Bourbons and <strong>the</strong> habsburgs, when<br />
it came down to it, <strong>the</strong> habsburgs<br />
were simply too poor. In <strong>the</strong> end<br />
Schönbrunn took on somewhat<br />
more modest dimensions. Ra<strong>the</strong>r<br />
than <strong>the</strong> original 2,300 rooms –as<br />
many as Versailles –itwas designed<br />
<strong>for</strong> amere 1,441. Which hardly mattered.<br />
After all, who was supposed to<br />
live in <strong>the</strong>m? Despite <strong>the</strong> downsizing,<br />
Schönbrunn with its stunning<br />
grounds ranks among <strong>the</strong> most magnificent<br />
palace complexes in Europe.<br />
<strong>The</strong> plans <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> h<strong>of</strong>burg also envisaged<br />
something different –animperial<br />
<strong>for</strong>um. This would have linked<br />
<strong>the</strong> h<strong>of</strong>burg with <strong>the</strong> Kunsthistorisches<br />
Museum, <strong>the</strong> Natural history<br />
Museum and <strong>the</strong> Imperial stables<br />
(now <strong>the</strong> MuseumsQuartier). Ultimately<br />
just one wing, <strong>the</strong> Neue h<strong>of</strong>burg,<br />
was completed at <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
19 th century. It <strong>house</strong>s <strong>the</strong> Austrian<br />
National library and <strong>the</strong> Museum<br />
<strong>of</strong> Ethnology. <strong>The</strong> site <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> picturesque<br />
Volksgarten where locals and<br />
tourists come to relax and admire <strong>the</strong><br />
stunning rose gardens was originally<br />
earmarked <strong>for</strong> ano<strong>the</strong>r monumental<br />
building that never left <strong>the</strong> drawing<br />
board. Imperial builders had to trade<br />
grass <strong>for</strong> cement –ablessing today.
UNICoRNS,<br />
MURDER<br />
WEAPoNS AND<br />
ThE holYGRAIl<br />
<strong>The</strong>re are many treasures at <strong>the</strong><br />
H<strong>of</strong>burg as this look at <strong>the</strong> wonders<br />
owned by <strong>the</strong> Habsburgs shows.<br />
<strong>The</strong> h<strong>of</strong>burg is home to various museums<br />
and institutions that are devoted<br />
to <strong>the</strong> history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> habsburgs.<br />
<strong>The</strong> biggest draws are <strong>the</strong> Sisi Museum<br />
and <strong>the</strong> Schatzkammer (Imperial<br />
Treasuries), which are brimming<br />
with unusual exhibits from <strong>the</strong> days<br />
<strong>of</strong> empire. Atour is ahighly rewarding<br />
experience, as afew extracts from<br />
<strong>the</strong> inventory reveal.<br />
For instance, <strong>the</strong> Imperial Treasuries<br />
<strong>house</strong> apair <strong>of</strong> objects that were<br />
deemed so valuable that <strong>the</strong>y were declared<br />
“inalienable patrimony <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>house</strong> <strong>of</strong> Austria”: agiant narwhal<br />
tooth and a late antique agate bowl<br />
from <strong>the</strong> fourth century AD. <strong>The</strong><br />
<strong>for</strong>mer was originaly thought to be<br />
<strong>the</strong> horn <strong>of</strong> aunicorn and <strong>the</strong> latter<br />
<strong>the</strong> legendary holy Grail. <strong>of</strong> course,<br />
nei<strong>the</strong>r claim was true, but <strong>the</strong>re is<br />
no denying that both exhibits are still<br />
well worth seeing.<br />
Ano<strong>the</strong>r <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> exhibits is in keeping<br />
with <strong>the</strong> Viennese penchant <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
macabre –an1895 cabinet containing<br />
<strong>the</strong> keys to <strong>the</strong> habsburgs’ sarcophaguses.<br />
Each was locked with<br />
two keys, one <strong>of</strong> which was held by<br />
<strong>the</strong> Capuchin monks at <strong>the</strong> Kaisergruft<br />
crypt, and <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r was kept in<br />
this cabinet at <strong>the</strong> Imperial Treasuries.<br />
All <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> keys still work, even<br />
though <strong>the</strong> oldest dates back to <strong>the</strong><br />
17 th century.<br />
Just afew steps away you arrive at<br />
<strong>the</strong> Sisi Museum, which introduces<br />
visitors to <strong>the</strong> original surroundings<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> legendary empress, and also<br />
boasts some ra<strong>the</strong>r curious mementos.<br />
For example, <strong>the</strong>re is a cocaine<br />
syringe used by <strong>the</strong> eccentric monarch.<br />
She was not addicted –inthose<br />
days cocaine was used as apain killer<br />
and anti-depressant. <strong>The</strong> file that<br />
killed Elisabeth on <strong>the</strong> shore <strong>of</strong> lake<br />
Geneva in 1898 is unusual in that<br />
murder weapons are normally prohibited<br />
from going on public display.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Sisi Star,apiece <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> empress’s<br />
jewelry set with priceless pearls and<br />
diamonds, was returned to <strong>the</strong> museum<br />
three years ago. It was stolen<br />
in <strong>the</strong> 1990s, and eventually traced<br />
to Canada after alengthy investigation.<br />
–All in all, <strong>the</strong>n, <strong>the</strong> imperial<br />
museums should always be part <strong>of</strong><br />
any traveler‘s itinerary.<br />
ThE NUMBERS<br />
GAME AT ThE<br />
Zoo<br />
Emperor Franz IStephan, known to<br />
many only as Empress Maria <strong>The</strong>resa’s<br />
consort, was no mean ma<strong>the</strong>matician.<br />
less well known is <strong>the</strong> fact<br />
that his many interests included hermeticism,<br />
alchemy and freemasonry.<br />
It was at Schönbrunn Zoo, which<br />
he founded in 1752 –making it <strong>the</strong><br />
world’soldest –that he gave his love<br />
<strong>of</strong> numerology free rein. he hoped to<br />
streng<strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> <strong>house</strong> <strong>of</strong> habsburg by<br />
embuing it with mystical powers in<br />
this way. Aclose look at <strong>the</strong> 1759 Imperial<br />
Breakfast Pavilion turns up a<br />
number <strong>of</strong> secrets:<br />
•<strong>The</strong> pavilion was surrounded by<br />
12 animal enclosures when it was<br />
built, each standing <strong>for</strong> adifferent<br />
sign <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> zodiac.<br />
•<strong>The</strong> pavilion has eight sides: <strong>the</strong><br />
figure eight symbolizes eternity, as<br />
well as power and happiness.<br />
•<strong>The</strong> plinth <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pavilion is square,<br />
and represents <strong>the</strong> four elements<br />
and <strong>the</strong> four cardinal Platonic virtues<br />
– wisdom, courage, moderation<br />
and justice.<br />
•Nine steps lead to <strong>the</strong> pavilion, a<br />
number that denotes wisdom and<br />
completion in <strong>the</strong> Kabbalah.<br />
•Three avenues which <strong>for</strong>m an equilateral<br />
triangle lead to <strong>the</strong> pavilion.<br />
<strong>The</strong> number three stands <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
harmony <strong>of</strong> body, spirit and soul.<br />
Today visitors can explore <strong>the</strong> numerological<br />
puzzles <strong>the</strong>mselves, as<br />
<strong>the</strong> pavilion was converted into a<br />
café and restaurant in 1949. <strong>The</strong>re<br />
are excellent views <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> surrounding<br />
enclosures from <strong>the</strong> terrace. And<br />
after taking time out <strong>for</strong> asnack, it’s<br />
<strong>of</strong>f to see <strong>the</strong> pandas, elephants and<br />
lions.<br />
Twounique crowns are on display at <strong>the</strong> Imperial Treasuries. <strong>The</strong><br />
Imperial Crown <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Holy Roman Empire <strong>of</strong> German Nation is over<br />
1,000 years old. And although <strong>the</strong> crown <strong>of</strong> emperor Rudolf II was<br />
<strong>the</strong> Austrian Empire‘s crown no emperor was ever crowned with it.<br />
SoNG CoNTEST<br />
AND IMPERIAl<br />
BoYS’ ChoIR<br />
With a little help from Udo Jürgens,<br />
one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best known singercomposers<br />
in <strong>the</strong> German-speaking<br />
world, pop music took <strong>the</strong> imperial<br />
h<strong>of</strong>burg by storm. Strange, but true.<br />
<strong>The</strong> singer won <strong>the</strong> 1966 Grand Prix<br />
de la Chanson in luxembourg with<br />
his song Merci Chéri, meaning that<br />
in 1967 <strong>the</strong> 12 th GP would be held in<br />
Vienna, or <strong>the</strong> h<strong>of</strong>burg’sGrosser Festsaal,<br />
to be precise. Sandie Shaw representing<br />
<strong>the</strong> United Kingdom won<br />
with her hit Puppet on aString.<br />
<strong>The</strong> interval featured an appearance<br />
by <strong>the</strong> Vienna Boys’ Choir.<strong>The</strong>y still<br />
per<strong>for</strong>m at <strong>the</strong> h<strong>of</strong>burg to this day –<br />
but in <strong>the</strong> Burgkapelle. <strong>The</strong> origins<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world-famous Boys’ Choir go<br />
back to Emperor Maximilan I(1459–<br />
1519). In September 2011 <strong>the</strong> Albertina<br />
is mounting amajor exhibition<br />
dedicated to this habsburg – who<br />
is remembered as <strong>the</strong> “last knight”–<br />
and <strong>the</strong> art <strong>of</strong> his time.<br />
An exhibition entitled<br />
Emperor Maximilian I<br />
(1459–1519) and <strong>the</strong> Art<br />
<strong>of</strong> his Time is due to open<br />
on 16 September 2011.<br />
Maximilian was atrue<br />
renaissance prince –a<br />
leading patron <strong>of</strong> learning<br />
and <strong>the</strong> arts, he spoke seven<br />
languages and his alliance<br />
with <strong>the</strong> kings <strong>of</strong> Spain<br />
laid <strong>the</strong> groundwork <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
subsequent greatness <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
House <strong>of</strong> Habsburg.<br />
Dreams and reality17<br />
Equestrian statues are nothing out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ordinary, but <strong>the</strong>re is certainly something unusual about <strong>the</strong><br />
one on Heldenplatz. <strong>The</strong> monument to Archduke Karl is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> few examples <strong>of</strong> astatue where<br />
<strong>the</strong> full weight <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> horse and rider is supported on <strong>the</strong> back legs.<br />
Where better to say “Merci Chérie”<br />
than <strong>the</strong> romantic surroundings <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
H<strong>of</strong>burg?<br />
Every Saturday<br />
at 10.45 a.m.<br />
between May<br />
and october<br />
<strong>the</strong> hoch- und<br />
Deutschmeister<br />
band marches<br />
up Kohlmarkt<br />
to <strong>the</strong> Innerer<br />
Burgh<strong>of</strong> courtyard<br />
to give a<br />
40-minute concert.
MUSIC<br />
IS IN<br />
ThE AIR<br />
…and with 415 square kilometers<br />
<strong>of</strong> airspace above Vienna <strong>the</strong>re is<br />
plenty <strong>of</strong> room <strong>for</strong> allkinds <strong>of</strong> music.<br />
Every night in Vienna around<br />
10,000 music lovers are treated to live<br />
classical music –something no o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
city in <strong>the</strong> world can rival. <strong>The</strong> variety<br />
<strong>of</strong>fered by an annual 15,000 concerts<br />
is unbelievable. <strong>The</strong> Vienna concert<br />
program ranges from ancient music<br />
(baroque and earlier) to <strong>the</strong> Viennese<br />
classics (Mozart, haydn, Beethoven)<br />
and contemporary compositions.<br />
And <strong>the</strong> city‘s cellar joints, clubs and<br />
bars are alive with <strong>the</strong> rarest grooves,<br />
<strong>the</strong> heaviest bass and <strong>the</strong> coolest<br />
sounds. Jazz, rock, pop, world and<br />
electronic music are served straight<br />
up or mixed, but absolutely danceable.<br />
And <strong>the</strong>re is no fear <strong>of</strong> mixing<br />
old and new. Waltz King Johann<br />
Strauss and pleasure loving Wolfgang<br />
Amadeus Mozart would be delighted<br />
with what <strong>the</strong> young generation are<br />
making out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir melodies.<br />
Photographer Lukas Beck took <strong>the</strong> idea <strong>of</strong> “music<br />
in <strong>the</strong> air” literally when he organised apicture<br />
session with <strong>the</strong> Vienna Boys’ Choir on <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Natural HistoryMuseum.
VIENNA IS NoT ShoRT<br />
oF SUPERlATIVES<br />
Do you know who <strong>the</strong> most photographed<br />
Viennese is? Waltz king<br />
Johann Strauss, whose golden monument<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Stadtpark appears in<br />
photo albums with unparalleled frequency.<br />
he even outdoes fellow musician<br />
Mozart, whose statue is in <strong>the</strong><br />
Burggarten.<br />
<strong>The</strong> city’s opera <strong>house</strong>s per<strong>for</strong>m a<br />
total <strong>of</strong> around 100 different works<br />
each season. Vienna’s flagship opera<br />
<strong>house</strong>, <strong>the</strong> State Opera, has <strong>the</strong><br />
fullest program. And it also has <strong>the</strong><br />
largest number <strong>of</strong> permanent residents,<br />
thanks to <strong>the</strong> 60,000 bees that<br />
live on <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong>. <strong>The</strong>re is apremiere<br />
<strong>every</strong> month at <strong>the</strong> <strong>The</strong>ater an der<br />
Wien, which stages <strong>every</strong>thing from<br />
baroque to modern works. <strong>The</strong> Volksoper<br />
is <strong>the</strong> city‘s top operetta venue,<br />
but is no stranger to opera and musicals.<br />
Gustav Mahler is very much in <strong>the</strong><br />
headlines at <strong>the</strong> moment, as 2011<br />
marks <strong>the</strong> 100 th anniversary <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
great composer and conductor‘s<br />
death. Mahler was musical director<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Court opera (today’s State<br />
opera) <strong>for</strong> ten years. his wife Alma<br />
No oNE IS<br />
UNMoVED<br />
BY MUSIC<br />
It’s amazing what music can do.<br />
Vienna has music that ...<br />
... brings people toge<strong>the</strong>r: At <strong>the</strong><br />
1814/15 Vienna Congress <strong>the</strong> novel<br />
waltz music put aspring in <strong>the</strong> assembled<br />
diplomats’ step, indirectly<br />
helping central Europe to half acentury<br />
<strong>of</strong> peace. Napoleon’sadmiration<br />
<strong>for</strong> haydn even crossed <strong>the</strong> lines<br />
<strong>of</strong> warfare, and he posted aguard<br />
<strong>of</strong> honor in front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> composer’s<br />
<strong>house</strong> to protect him during <strong>the</strong> siege<br />
<strong>of</strong> Vienna.<br />
was averitable femme fatale, turning<br />
<strong>the</strong> heads <strong>of</strong> alegion <strong>of</strong> artists,<br />
including painter oskar Kokoschka.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Vienna Boys’ Choir is a<br />
100-strong ensemble with long traditions.<br />
<strong>The</strong> oldest boy group in <strong>the</strong><br />
world is also <strong>the</strong> most enduring, and<br />
with 300 appearance to its name, <strong>the</strong><br />
busiest.<br />
Not just boy groups, but bands representing<br />
just about <strong>every</strong> imaginable<br />
style are on <strong>the</strong> bill at <strong>the</strong> annual<br />
Danube Island festival, held at<br />
<strong>the</strong> start <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> summer. Attracting<br />
three million visitors each year, <strong>the</strong><br />
three-day event is Europe‘s largest<br />
free open-air party. <strong>The</strong>re are almost<br />
400 hours <strong>of</strong> entertainment and a<br />
dozen different stages to enjoy.<br />
Vienna is multi-cultural. <strong>The</strong> past<br />
few years have seen <strong>the</strong> birth <strong>of</strong><br />
a number <strong>of</strong> new festivals whose<br />
names tell you <strong>every</strong>thing you need<br />
to know. <strong>The</strong>re are <strong>the</strong> Accordion<br />
and KlezMoRE festivals, Balkan Fever,Salam<br />
orient and <strong>the</strong> Wean hean<br />
festival (dedicated to <strong>the</strong> Wienerlied<br />
song –<strong>the</strong> city’sown musical genre).<br />
… makes ladies go weak at <strong>the</strong><br />
knees: <strong>The</strong> waltz leaves no room <strong>for</strong><br />
female emancipation. <strong>The</strong> gentleman<br />
leads and <strong>the</strong> trusting lady puts herself<br />
in his hands.<br />
… amazes: Acapella festival Voice<br />
Mania is all about virtuoso vocal<br />
acrobatics. Besides trilling, purring,<br />
chirruping, humming and growling,<br />
per<strong>for</strong>mers whisper, pant and generally<br />
play <strong>the</strong> goat. <strong>The</strong>y even sing, as<br />
well.<br />
…fills dance floors: Music gets <strong>the</strong><br />
toes tapping, especially at <strong>the</strong> capital‘s<br />
hottest clubs and discos. Popular<br />
haunts include Pratersauna, Flex<br />
and Praterdome, Austria‘s largest<br />
disco. ImPulsTanz, Europe’s largest<br />
contemporary dance festival, serves<br />
up around 200 dance workshops and<br />
top per<strong>for</strong>mances each summer. <strong>The</strong><br />
dancers at <strong>the</strong> Vienna State opera<br />
Ballet are <strong>the</strong> ultimate in poise.<br />
…brings out <strong>the</strong> best in <strong>every</strong>one:<br />
At <strong>the</strong> <strong>house</strong> <strong>of</strong> Music, Vienna’s interactive<br />
sound museum, <strong>of</strong>fbeat<br />
experiments await budding composers<br />
(CDs <strong>of</strong> your work are available<br />
to take away) and conductors (<strong>the</strong><br />
Vienna Philharmonic follow your<br />
virtual baton).<br />
“A free concert by <strong>the</strong> Vienna<br />
Philharmonic on astage in front<br />
<strong>of</strong> Schönbrunn Palace, in front <strong>of</strong><br />
an audience <strong>of</strong> 100,000 –though<br />
<strong>the</strong> Summer Night Concert is televised<br />
worldwide, you have to be<br />
<strong>the</strong>re to experience <strong>the</strong> unique atmosphere.”<br />
Music is in <strong>the</strong> air<br />
19<br />
ANATIoN oF<br />
MUSIC ADDICTS<br />
Now it’s<strong>of</strong>ficial. AVienna University<br />
<strong>of</strong> Music study confirms <strong>the</strong> received<br />
wisdom that music plays akey role<br />
in Austrian <strong>life</strong>.<br />
<strong>The</strong> research found that people<br />
spend more time listening to music<br />
than <strong>the</strong>y devote to sport. Every second<br />
person is musically active, and<br />
fully 85 percent indicated that music<br />
played an indispensible role in <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
<strong>life</strong>. It is hardly surprising that music<br />
thrives in such fertile soil.<br />
YoU WANT IT,<br />
VIENNA’S GoT IT<br />
Tips <strong>for</strong><br />
... classical music lovers: Musikverein,<br />
Konzerthaus, Festival oster-<br />
Klang.<br />
…autograph hunters: meet Anna<br />
Netrebko!<br />
…musical fans: addict alert! one<br />
Elisabeth fan managed 450 per<strong>for</strong>mances.<br />
2011 latest: Tanz der<br />
Vampire, Ich war noch niemals in<br />
New York.<br />
…jazz lovers: Vienna Blues Spring<br />
(<strong>the</strong> world’slongest jazz festival),<br />
Vienna Jazz Festival, Vienna Jazzfloor<br />
Festival.<br />
…talent scouts: up and coming<br />
rock, pop, hip-hop and electronic<br />
acts in <strong>the</strong> bars along <strong>the</strong> Gürtel<br />
beltway.<br />
…per<strong>for</strong>mers: choirs at Voices <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> World in front <strong>of</strong> Schönbrunn<br />
Palace.<br />
…bon vivants: afeast <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> ears,<br />
eyes and palate at <strong>the</strong> Music Film<br />
Festival on City hall Square.<br />
…beginners: free opera <strong>for</strong> all<br />
courtesy <strong>of</strong> live broadcasts from <strong>the</strong><br />
State opera <strong>house</strong> on <strong>the</strong> big screen<br />
outside.<br />
…party people: raise your glass to<br />
<strong>the</strong> New Year’sTrail.<br />
…visual artists: images <strong>of</strong> dance at<br />
<strong>the</strong> sound:frame Festival
Twentieth centuryAustrian design was also<br />
outstanding, as seen at <strong>the</strong> 700 square meter lichterloh<br />
showroom<br />
Traditional milliner Mühlbauer (estd. 1903)<br />
is one <strong>of</strong> countless Viennese companies that<br />
is apast master at combining experience,<br />
craftsmanship, style and design.<br />
CREATIVE<br />
MINDS DIG<br />
DEEP<br />
<strong>The</strong> Wien Museum will be showing<br />
design highlights from <strong>the</strong> last decade<br />
at an exhibition entitled “2000-<br />
2010 –Design in Vienna” between<br />
7October 2010 and 9January 2011.<br />
“In <strong>the</strong> last ten years alively, and<br />
globally-acclaimed product design<br />
scene has evolved in Vienna”, explains<br />
Peter Stuiber from <strong>the</strong> Wien<br />
Museum. “A new generation <strong>of</strong> –<br />
mostly Vienna-trained – creatives<br />
is developing innovative methods,<br />
setting up networks and working<br />
internationally.” <strong>The</strong> allure <strong>of</strong> working<br />
in Vienna stems from <strong>the</strong> fact<br />
that traditional businesses are always<br />
looking to join <strong>for</strong>ces with young designers,<br />
and <strong>of</strong>fer aquality <strong>of</strong> manufacturing<br />
that is rarely found <strong>the</strong>se<br />
days. Among <strong>the</strong>se companies are<br />
big names such as <strong>the</strong> glass manufacturer<br />
lobmeyr, founded in 1823, <strong>the</strong><br />
300-year old porcelain manufacturer<br />
Augarten, and <strong>the</strong> textile company<br />
Backhausen, renowned as <strong>the</strong> main<br />
supplier <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Wiener Werkstätte.<br />
Many smaller Viennese workshops<br />
also stand <strong>for</strong> quality <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> highest<br />
order.”<br />
Visitors to Vienna can trace <strong>the</strong> fascinating<br />
history <strong>of</strong> design <strong>right</strong> back<br />
to its industrial beginnings around<br />
1900. outstanding exhibits include<br />
Wiener Werkstätte pieces at <strong>the</strong> MAK<br />
and in <strong>the</strong> leopold Museum. <strong>The</strong>re<br />
are Backhausen textile designs from<br />
historicist through Art Nouveau to<br />
contemporary on show at <strong>the</strong> Wiener<br />
Werkstätte Museum. And <strong>the</strong> Imperial<br />
Furniture Collection is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
world’s largest furniture museums.<br />
<strong>The</strong> exhibitions at <strong>the</strong> design<strong>for</strong>um<br />
and quartier21 (both in <strong>the</strong> Museums-<br />
Quartier), <strong>the</strong> shop/café “das möbel”,<br />
<strong>the</strong> open <strong>house</strong> at Walking Chair<br />
Design Gallery and <strong>the</strong> Klaus Engelhorn<br />
Gallery <strong>of</strong>fer agood overview <strong>of</strong><br />
young design. And, <strong>of</strong> course, <strong>the</strong>re<br />
is <strong>the</strong> design market, which is held at<br />
<strong>the</strong> historic Adolf loos <strong>house</strong> be<strong>for</strong>e<br />
Christmas each year.<br />
<strong>The</strong> tight-knit but vibrant Vienna design<br />
scene holds up well against its<br />
international peers and keeps attracting<br />
young talent to <strong>the</strong> city. Seemingly,<br />
<strong>the</strong> great tradition <strong>of</strong> loos, h<strong>of</strong>fmann<br />
and co. is seen as enrichment<br />
ra<strong>the</strong>r than aburden.<br />
NoT oNlY<br />
“WhAT” –<br />
ThE “WhERE”<br />
AND “hoW”<br />
MATTER, Too<br />
Trend and marketing researchers<br />
<strong>of</strong>ten categorise people according<br />
to <strong>the</strong>ir shopping preferences. Dedicated<br />
followers <strong>of</strong> fashion, bargain<br />
hunters, brand loyalists and spontaneous<br />
shoppers are all part <strong>of</strong> it. Each<br />
target group has its own shopping<br />
district or even its own shopping<br />
city. But shopping in Vienna caters<br />
to all desires and tastes and best <strong>of</strong><br />
all, <strong>the</strong>re are no strict categorizations.<br />
With <strong>the</strong> main shopping areas close<br />
to <strong>the</strong> center, all <strong>the</strong> hotspots are<br />
within <strong>walk</strong>ing distance from each<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r. <strong>The</strong> boundaries between style<br />
and cult, one-<strong>of</strong>f pieces and brand<br />
products, avant-garde and tradition<br />
are fluent.<br />
Brand lovers will feel at home in <strong>the</strong><br />
heart <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city. All <strong>the</strong> big names<br />
have <strong>the</strong>ir flagship stores in <strong>the</strong> district<br />
around Kärtner Strasse, Graben<br />
and Kohlmarkt. Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city’s<br />
hippest stores are beyond <strong>the</strong> Ringstrsse<br />
which encircles <strong>the</strong> old town.<br />
<strong>The</strong> second to ninth districts are<br />
home to anew breed <strong>of</strong> mostly young<br />
designers. <strong>The</strong> Freihausviertel (near<br />
Naschmarkt) and Neubaugasse are<br />
always worth alook. From <strong>the</strong>re, it<br />
is only ashort <strong>walk</strong> to Vienna’s largest<br />
shopping strip, <strong>the</strong> Mariahilfer<br />
Strasse.
ThE BEAUTIFUl<br />
IS AS USEFUl AS<br />
ThE USEFUl<br />
•Famous Famous <strong>for</strong><br />
his<br />
uncompromising<br />
stance on <strong>for</strong>m, architect Adolf<br />
Loos was aman ahead <strong>of</strong> his time.<br />
In 1929 he designed abar set with<br />
diamond pattern on <strong>the</strong> base <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
American Bar in Vienna. It is still<br />
part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> lobmeyr range today.<br />
In 2010 Marco Dessi came up with<br />
•Floor design in <strong>the</strong> Kunsthistorisches<br />
Museum Vienna, according<br />
to drawings by Gottfried Semper and<br />
Karl Freiherr von hasenauer,1891.<br />
•A pair <strong>of</strong> drinking icons: Wiener<br />
Werkstätte tea set from 1903, designed<br />
by Josef h<strong>of</strong>fmann, crafted<br />
by Konrad Koch, from <strong>the</strong> MAK<br />
collection. Double-cup Divina by<br />
<strong>the</strong> “grip” series <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> same company.<br />
This glassware shows just<br />
how handcrafting can bring apareddown<br />
design to <strong>life</strong>. Similar to loos’<br />
design, <strong>the</strong> detailing on <strong>the</strong> base<br />
protects <strong>the</strong> objects from scratches.<br />
•Ceiling design, Skopik &Lohn restaurant.Byotto<br />
Zitko, 2006.<br />
designer hedwig Rotter. Perfect <strong>for</strong><br />
a“kleiner schwarzer or amelange”.<br />
hand made in Vienna.<br />
www.manodesign.at<br />
•<strong>The</strong> original Scheer workshop produces<br />
amaximum <strong>of</strong> just 300 pairs<br />
<strong>of</strong> made-to-measure, handcrafted<br />
shoes each year.Ittakes sixty hours<br />
to make one pair, explains Markus<br />
Scheer, <strong>the</strong> seventh-generation<br />
owner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> company.<br />
•Wittgenstein’s fingerprint. This fufuturist door<br />
handle<br />
was<br />
designed<br />
by<br />
EooS (Gernot<br />
Bohmann,<br />
harald<br />
Gründl<br />
and<br />
Martin<br />
Bergmann,<br />
graduates<br />
<strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong><br />
University<br />
<strong>of</strong><br />
Fine<br />
Arts<br />
Vienna)<br />
<strong>for</strong><br />
aaworkshop<br />
workshop run<br />
by<br />
German<br />
manufacturer<br />
fsb.<br />
It<br />
pays<br />
homage<br />
to<br />
<strong>the</strong><br />
philosopher<br />
ludwig<br />
Wittgenstein who also made architectural<br />
history with his radical<br />
minimalist design <strong>for</strong> his sister’s<br />
<strong>house</strong> in Vienna. <strong>The</strong> handle<br />
features an integrated sensor that<br />
recognises biometric fingerprint<br />
data and works as a“key”.<br />
•<strong>The</strong> contemporary furniture on sale<br />
at Marlowe also bears witness to<br />
<strong>the</strong> enduring popularity <strong>of</strong> Vienna’s<br />
distinctive fin de siècle design signature.<br />
•Superated’s clear lines, fine materials<br />
and original cuts have been<br />
turning heads since <strong>the</strong> label was<br />
launched in 2005. For men who<br />
have <strong>the</strong> confidence and humor to<br />
carry <strong>of</strong>f extraordinary fashion. <strong>The</strong><br />
superated team has astore called<br />
Samstag in Margaretenstrasse in<br />
Vienna (open Fri noon –7p.m. Sat<br />
10 a.m. –7p.m.) which carries international<br />
and Austrian fashion <strong>for</strong><br />
men and women, from designers including<br />
hartmann Nordenholz and<br />
<strong>house</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Very Island’s.<br />
“During <strong>the</strong> Vienna Design Week<br />
(29 September –9october 2011)<br />
<strong>the</strong> whole city will become a<br />
showroom <strong>of</strong> contemporary Austrian<br />
and international product,<br />
furniture and industrial designs.<br />
As part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Passionswege design<br />
trails, designers will create<br />
site-specific installations in shops<br />
and businesses around <strong>the</strong> city.”<br />
Form and function21<br />
oRIGINAlS<br />
FRoM VIENNA<br />
Manner Schnitten<br />
how do you measure worldwide<br />
success? one Manner wafer (first<br />
mentioned in <strong>the</strong> Manner product<br />
catalogue in 1898) weighs 7.5 grams.<br />
And with annual production <strong>of</strong> about<br />
10,000 metric tons that makes about<br />
1.3 billion wafers each year! Each<br />
wafer measures 47x17x17mm, which<br />
equates to 61,000 kilometres <strong>of</strong> Manner<br />
wafers per year –easily enough<br />
to stretch round <strong>the</strong> planet one and<br />
ahalf times. or have we made amistake<br />
somewhere?<br />
<strong>The</strong> Snow Globe<br />
<strong>The</strong>y have featured in films such as<br />
Citizen Kane, True lies and home<br />
Alone. Slow globes were invented by<br />
Viennese toolmaker Erwin Perzy in<br />
1900. <strong>The</strong> original workshop produces<br />
around 300,000 units each year,<br />
including anumber <strong>of</strong> custom orders<br />
such as <strong>the</strong> “confetti globe.” This<br />
one-<strong>of</strong>f featured confetti from Bill<br />
Clinton’s inauguration and a silver<br />
base by Cartier. <strong>The</strong> original Viennese<br />
Snow Globe Museum adjoins<br />
<strong>the</strong> workshop.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Thonet Chair no. (2)14<br />
With around 50 million made so far,<br />
no o<strong>the</strong>r chair has been produced<br />
on <strong>the</strong> same scale as Thonet’s no. 14<br />
model (today no. 214). <strong>The</strong> classic<br />
café chair, isone <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most enduring<br />
industrial products <strong>of</strong> all time,<br />
and undeniably one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most successful.<br />
Nonja<br />
She is <strong>the</strong> first orang-utan with aFacebook<br />
account and acamera <strong>of</strong> her<br />
own – Schönbrunn Zoo’s leading<br />
lady Nonja. Renowned <strong>for</strong> her painting,<br />
her works have fetched prices <strong>of</strong><br />
up to EUR 2,000. Now she has exchanged<br />
her palette and brush <strong>for</strong> a<br />
digital camera, sharing her photos on<br />
her Facebook site.
SWING INTo<br />
SPRING ...<br />
is <strong>the</strong> watchword as Vienna comes to<br />
<strong>life</strong> in spring. Your Vienna spring can be:<br />
•eastery: at <strong>the</strong> city’s Easter markets in<br />
April, in front <strong>of</strong> Schönbrunn Palace<br />
and on Freyung in <strong>the</strong> old town. or <strong>the</strong><br />
osterKlang music festival at <strong>the</strong> <strong>The</strong>ater<br />
an der Wien and <strong>the</strong> Musikverein<br />
from 16–24 April 2011.<br />
•contemporary: at Viennafair,<strong>the</strong> international<br />
fair <strong>for</strong> contemporary art with<br />
afocus on CEE, 12–15 May 2011.<br />
•fashionable: at Modepalast, <strong>the</strong> cutting-edge<br />
sales exhibition <strong>for</strong> fashion,<br />
jewelry and accessories in April 2011:<br />
street couture, ready to wear and ec<strong>of</strong>ashion.<br />
•sporty: at <strong>the</strong> Vienna City Marathon on<br />
17 April –anun<strong>for</strong>gettable experience<br />
<strong>for</strong> competitors and spectators alike.<br />
ThE DANUBE So<br />
BlUE –AND ThE<br />
SKY,ASWEll<br />
Vienna has oceans <strong>of</strong> space <strong>for</strong> sun worshippers<br />
and open-air fans:<br />
•along <strong>the</strong> Danube Canal with <strong>the</strong> Summer<br />
Stage, Badeschiff, TelAviv Beach<br />
and <strong>the</strong> Arabian Beach (planned <strong>for</strong><br />
2011).<br />
•at Motto am Fluss, located at <strong>the</strong><br />
new Twin City liner boat terminal.<br />
“<strong>The</strong> best looking dockside bar in <strong>the</strong><br />
world” is how architect Stephan Ferency<br />
(BEhF) terms <strong>the</strong> city’s newest<br />
café, restaurant, bar, and business and<br />
event hotspot.<br />
•on <strong>the</strong> Danube Island, where <strong>the</strong> options<br />
range from unspoilt nature to<br />
party central.<br />
•in<strong>the</strong> parks,from picnics to <strong>the</strong> Wiener<br />
Genussfestival in <strong>the</strong> Stadtpark.<br />
•on <strong>the</strong> Gürtel beltway, where <strong>the</strong> late<br />
night party crowd go bar hopping.<br />
•musical/visual: at sound:frame, <strong>the</strong><br />
festival <strong>for</strong> visualising electronic music<br />
–aglobal summit <strong>for</strong> international<br />
visual artists, VJs, video artists, sound<br />
producers, DJs and media artists in<br />
March/April.<br />
•musical/technical: at <strong>the</strong> Museum <strong>of</strong><br />
Technology, <strong>the</strong> “Macht Musik!” exibition<br />
gives visitors achance to try out<br />
and experience instruments, stages,<br />
computers, syn<strong>the</strong>sizers, sound mixing<br />
desks and cutting-edge studio technology.<br />
•moving: on tours <strong>of</strong> Vienna’s green<br />
spaces such as <strong>the</strong> lainzer Tiergarten<br />
wild<strong>life</strong> preserve with Empress Sisi’s<br />
summer palace, <strong>the</strong> hermesvilla.<br />
•in<strong>the</strong> Prater,where highlights include<br />
<strong>the</strong> 1May celebrations and <strong>the</strong> Praterrummel<br />
at <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> August.<br />
•in <strong>the</strong> MuseumsQuartier, which turns<br />
into acity center open-air venue each<br />
year during “summer at <strong>the</strong> MQ”.<br />
•at <strong>the</strong> open-air cinemas in <strong>the</strong> Augarten<br />
and on Karlsplatz.<br />
•atone <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> many outdoor swimming<br />
pools,many <strong>of</strong> which are architectural<br />
gems.
AUTUMNAl<br />
DElIGhTS ...<br />
<strong>for</strong> lovers <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> good things in <strong>life</strong>.<br />
Choose from:<br />
•young wine, which goes on sale at <strong>the</strong><br />
city’sheuriger taverns in fall.<br />
•freshly-harvested produce at <strong>the</strong> harvest<br />
festival on heldenplatz.<br />
•selected per<strong>for</strong>mances at <strong>the</strong> Vienna<br />
State opera <strong>house</strong> which are broadcast<br />
live on <strong>the</strong> big screen next to <strong>the</strong> opera<br />
<strong>house</strong> in September and october.<br />
•cinematic highlights at <strong>the</strong> Viennale<br />
international film festival, held in october<br />
•contemporary music at <strong>the</strong> Wien Modern<br />
festival in october/November.<br />
•<strong>the</strong> marked footpaths that criss-cross<br />
<strong>the</strong> Vienna Woods and o<strong>the</strong>r easily accessible<br />
recreation zones –<strong>the</strong> blend <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> great outdoors, city living and culinary<br />
delights.<br />
“VIENNA IS<br />
ChRISTMAS” ...<br />
as <strong>the</strong> German version <strong>of</strong> “1000 Places<br />
to See be<strong>for</strong>e YouDie” puts it. And it is<br />
true, yuletide magic is <strong>every</strong>where:<br />
•sparkling lights: during <strong>the</strong> run up to<br />
Christmas Vienna’s shopping streets<br />
try to outdo each o<strong>the</strong>r with creative<br />
and atmospheric lighting.<br />
•Advent markets: yuletide magic and<br />
shopping in front <strong>of</strong> Schönbrunn Palace,<br />
and on Am h<strong>of</strong> and City hall<br />
Square in <strong>the</strong> historic city center; or<br />
with aview, on<strong>the</strong> Cobenzl hill (bio<br />
Advent market).<br />
•New Year’sTrail: aseries <strong>of</strong> show stages<br />
that trans<strong>for</strong>m <strong>the</strong> entire old town<br />
into one big party zone.<br />
•Kaiserball: anyone looking to end <strong>the</strong><br />
year on atruly festive note dances in<br />
<strong>the</strong> New Year in <strong>the</strong> staterooms at <strong>the</strong><br />
h<strong>of</strong>burg.<br />
•on a special tour <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city: <strong>the</strong><br />
120-kilometer-long Rundumadum trail<br />
encircles <strong>the</strong> city in 24 easily manageable<br />
stages. <strong>The</strong> start and finish <strong>of</strong> each<br />
stage is accessible by public transportation.<br />
•New Year’s Concert: if you are not<br />
<strong>for</strong>tunate enough to experience <strong>the</strong><br />
world’s most-famous concert live in<br />
<strong>the</strong> Golden hall <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Musikverein<br />
on 1January, <strong>the</strong>re is always <strong>the</strong> video<br />
wall on City hall Square.<br />
•Vienna Ice World: from 20 January to 6<br />
March City hall Square is trans<strong>for</strong>med<br />
into a giant ice landscape complete<br />
with an romantic ice trail through <strong>the</strong><br />
historic Rathauspark.<br />
•ball season: it doesn’t have to be <strong>the</strong><br />
opera Ball (3 March 2011) –Vienna<br />
has something <strong>for</strong> <strong>every</strong>one.<br />
•Resonanzen: <strong>the</strong> ancient music festival<br />
will bring <strong>the</strong> music <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> periods<br />
from <strong>the</strong> Middle Ages to <strong>the</strong> Baroque<br />
to <strong>the</strong> Konzerthaus from 15–2 January.<br />
Vienna in 201123
GriechiScher<br />
Wein<br />
Merci<br />
chérie<br />
Das Musical mit den Songs von<br />
Udo Jürgens<br />
iMMer WieDer Geht<br />
Die Sonne aUf<br />
aber bitte<br />
Mit Sahne<br />
www.musicalvienna.at<br />
Mit 66<br />
Jahren<br />
Siebzehn Jahr,<br />
blonDeS haar U.V.M.