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ELITE RECOMMENDS<br />
fall/winter 2010<br />
The menswear guide<br />
exclusive luxury Menswear report<br />
Fall collections begin to trickle into stores<br />
long before the thermometer requires a cold<br />
weather change of wardrobe. Get a jump on<br />
new arrivals and assemble your list of must-<br />
haves with <strong>Elite</strong> <strong>Traveler</strong>’s guide to the fash-<br />
ion that will define fall 2010.
cooling Trends<br />
By tanya dukes, style editor<br />
For many designers (and shoppers) the winter season is really fashion’s main<br />
event. The number of options in play when assembling a cold weather wardrobe—from<br />
coats of every variety to special eveningwear, plus unlimited accessories—gives<br />
lots of room for the imagination to run riot. And while there’s<br />
no denying the special appeal of summer’s airy linens and cottons, the materials<br />
that we associate with fall—velvet, corduroy, cashmere, and fur—are<br />
unrivaled for sensual gusto.<br />
Our overview of the season’s key collections shows that there’s plenty of reason<br />
to get excited about the new crop of fashions soon to arrive in stores. Let<br />
the following rundown of fall’s top trends serve as preparation to narrow your<br />
shopping list.<br />
breaThing room<br />
For the last decade designers bounced all over the map when it came to<br />
tailored silhouettes. No one look could be said to define the early naughties.<br />
Some brands subscribed stalwartly to skinny cuts season after season,<br />
most others shifted among a spectrum of shapes from one collection to the<br />
next. Finally, though, there seems to be a consensus that slim isn’t in anymore.<br />
For fall, the collections followed the middle way between constricting<br />
slimness and major volume. The easy accessibility of roomier cuts will give<br />
many more options to men with physiques that don’t permit the option of<br />
shopping in the kids’ department.<br />
shear genius<br />
If trench coats were spring’s must-have toppers, they’ve been displaced<br />
by sturdy shearlings for fall. Remarkably versatile, the material appeared<br />
in countless collections, and with a few tweaks can make the leap from a<br />
sleek, office-ready blazer to a rustic toggle coat. No matter the attitude it<br />
takes, shearling can always be counted on as a trusty bulwark against the<br />
most blustery weather, obviating the need to choose between staying warm<br />
and looking cool.<br />
sole auThoriTy<br />
Perhaps it’s the hangover from the waning recession, but men’s shoes will<br />
be especially hardwearing this season. Chunky soles, possibly in a bid by<br />
brands to project longevity, were omnipresent. Even dress shoes have a<br />
weightier base than has been seen in ages. Appropriately, motorcycle boots,<br />
the ultimate lugged soled shoes have made a comeback.<br />
marching orders<br />
When in doubt about the best way to inject a trendy update into a wardrobe,<br />
there’s no way to miss with a touch of military panache. Epaulettes,<br />
bold brass buttons, jumpsuits and laced boots were a pervasive force on<br />
fall runways. Masculine to the extreme and easy to integrate with virtually<br />
any style, it’s a good fit for men otherwise hesitant to embrace most fashion<br />
forward looks. And the military trend always reemerges every few years, so<br />
this year’s purchases will have staying power.
asprey<br />
No brand is more thoroughly British than Asprey. Since the 18th century it has outfitted royals and aristocracy from around<br />
the world with custom-made luxuries and keeps current with contemporary collaborations like its latest jewelry collection<br />
with Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Asprey in New York.<br />
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
Classic, generation-spanning creations<br />
are Asprey’s signature. The principle<br />
applies to everything it offers, from<br />
exquisite fine jewelry and watches, to<br />
goods for the home, to perfectly-wrought<br />
leather goods. Though the classic brand<br />
may have Old World associations the collection<br />
brims with chic, contemporary<br />
offerings like its new woven horse hair<br />
bag with bullskin leather trim (pictured,<br />
$2,050).<br />
Corporate Contact: Lynn Dennis, (212) 688 -1811; corporateservicesus@asprey.com. Visit www.asprey.com.
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
For fall, the team at Belvest put fabrics<br />
front and center: From fine gauge wools<br />
to pure cashmere tartans, in a rich color<br />
palette that includes cognac, amber and<br />
teal, every garment feels as luxurious as<br />
it looks. Belvest also made it a point to<br />
bring back gentlemanly jackets, from a<br />
classic double-breasted style to a refined<br />
blouson with detachable opossum lining.<br />
(On model: Two-button wool suit with<br />
flat-front trousers, about $2,300; violet<br />
check cotton shirt, and violet paisley silk<br />
tie, both price available upon request).<br />
BelVest<br />
Masters of perfectly finished wardrobe staples,<br />
the artisans at Belvest produce beautifully fitting<br />
garments of stunning craftsmanship. A combination<br />
of first-rate textiles developed through exacting<br />
research and painstaking details that extend to<br />
handmade buttonholes and cuffs define the brand’s<br />
supreme quality.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at<br />
Belvest in New York.<br />
Corporate Contact: Roberta Coco, (212) 317-0460.<br />
Visit www.belvest.com.
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
Browne builds on perennially preppy staples<br />
from the Brooks Brothers archive and injects<br />
them with a dose of Italian style. Anglophiles<br />
will appreciate the emphasis on<br />
knitwear, like the striped rugby sweater and<br />
a classic Eton jacket in merino wool. Expect<br />
smart tailoring, mixing of materials and patterns<br />
like plaid and tattersall, and the return<br />
of the bowtie for evening. (Near right: white<br />
oxford shirt, $165; grey flannel tie, $125;<br />
grey flannel racing classic jacket, $1,200;<br />
racing belt loop trouser, $500; Coniston<br />
boot, $650; far right: white oxford tuxedo<br />
shirt, $175; black silk bowtie, $85; Milano<br />
vest, $350; tipped tab trouser, $450; toggle<br />
coat, $1,275 and black wing-tip shoe, $550).<br />
BlaCk fleeCe By Brooks BrotHers<br />
Under the direction of trailblazing designer Thom Browne, Brooks Brothers’ elite Black Fleece collection updates the look of<br />
classic Americana with a cheeky wink. For fall 2010, you’ll find an ample selection of wear-forever favorites, from wool duffle<br />
coats to substantial pebble grain wingtips.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at the Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers store in New York.<br />
Corporate Contact: Edward Sadovnika, (212) 929-2763. Visit www.brooksbrothers.com.
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
Fall 2010 showed Boss at its best: Sleek,<br />
sporty separates that could be mixed<br />
and matched without heavy-duty consideration.<br />
Heavy on black and grey,<br />
the collection was created with an man<br />
about town possessed of plenty of edge,<br />
and a day job. (On model: black leather<br />
quilted motorcycle jacket, $995; merino<br />
V-neck sweater, $175; striped cotton<br />
sport shirt, $125; wool flannel flat front<br />
trouser, $195; leather lace-up oxfords,<br />
$345 and leather weekend bag, $695).<br />
Boss BlaCk<br />
Starting from humble origins in 1923, as a tailoring workshop in a small town in Cermany, today Hugo Boss is an internationally-renowned<br />
label beloved for its elegant, modern sportswear. The focus of the high-end BOSS Black line is on versatile pieces that can be dressed up<br />
or down to fit any occasion, from casual weekend-ready looks to formal eveningwear.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at BOSS Stores in New York and Los Angeles.<br />
Corporate Contact: Customer Service, (800) 484-6267. Visit www.hugoboss.com.
Bottega Veneta<br />
Tomas Maier’s work at Bottega Veneta is associated with pared-down, almost austere luxury. Building on a lively spring collection that<br />
featured bold colors and jaunty silhouettes, fall 2010 is all about unconventional pieces with a rebellious edge.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Bottega Veneta boutiques.<br />
Corporate Contact: Melinda La Placa, (646) 292-5899. Visit www.bottegaveneta.com.<br />
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
Fall’s more subdued color palette includes<br />
deep, dark shades of black, gray, blue,<br />
green and brown, but thanks to interesting<br />
shapes—like the tapered yet voluminous<br />
trousers that predominated—the overall<br />
effect is eyecatching and decidedly urban.<br />
Perhaps where Maier shines most is in the<br />
little finishing touches: Scarves, antique<br />
silver rings and even distinctive socks add<br />
plenty of visual interest. As always, accessories<br />
reign supreme, with chunky-soled<br />
motorcycle boots and sumptuously soft<br />
calfskin bags among the season’s best. (On<br />
model: light cotton jacket, $1,200; wool<br />
sweater, $650; light cotton pant, $690;<br />
bag, $7,000; calf leather ankle boots,<br />
$940 and napa leather gloves, $ 470).
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
From the work week to the weekend,<br />
the Brioni gentleman is always impeccably<br />
turned out. Fall 2010 featured a<br />
warm, appropriately autumnal color<br />
palette that didn’t shy from a little color:<br />
Bordeaux, deep violet, olive and navy all<br />
made appearances among standbys like<br />
chocolate brown and charcoal grey. Rich<br />
textures like velvet and jacquard make<br />
formal dressing fun. (Inset: Navy merino<br />
wool cardigan, washed denim sportshirt,<br />
brushed cotton twill trousers and grey<br />
and white check scarf, all priceavailable<br />
upon request; Right: Taupe and brown<br />
check car coat, bordeaux cashmere blazer,<br />
vintage striped dress shirt and silk<br />
micro printed bowtie, all price available<br />
upon request).<br />
Brioni<br />
Brioni continues to stay true to the label’s<br />
roots in classic Italian tailoring, albeit with a<br />
leisurely attitude and an emphasis on elegant<br />
sportswear.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at<br />
Brioni boutiques nationwide.<br />
Corporate Contact: Ali Ansari,<br />
(212) 486-0500. Visit www.brioni.com.
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
The Solomeo-based brand continues<br />
to splice together dressy and relaxed<br />
elements to create its own fashion idiom.<br />
The prevailing theme for fall was “lightness,”<br />
in the form of ultra-light sweaters, featherweight<br />
down parkas, and the introduction of<br />
the Soft-Jacket, a carefree touch that was<br />
designed to be thrown on with the ease of<br />
a favorite cardigan. When paired with tailored<br />
denim, cargo trousers or corduroys,<br />
the overall effect is playful yet polished. As<br />
always, the wide accessories range has you<br />
covered, from pocket squares and bowties<br />
to substantial leather bags. (Leather jacket,<br />
$4,055; cashmere crew-neck sweater,<br />
$1,055; polo, $475; denim, $515; Commando<br />
boots, $985; cashmere scarf, $585).<br />
Brunello CuCinelli<br />
Brunello Cucinelli’s always assured combination of lived-in knits and comfortably tailored pieces ensures its customer never ap-<br />
pears to be trying too hard. There’s no need to in body-skimming garments made from the very best cashmere, cotton and linen<br />
you’re likely to find.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Brunello Cucinelli stores in New York, Beverly Hills and East Hampton.<br />
Corporate Contact: William Brobston, (212) 813-0900. Visit www.brunellocucinelli.com.
BurBerry prorsuM<br />
There’s no label more British than Burberry. Once again, Christopher Bailey played up the brand’s heritage and military history<br />
with an outerwear-heavy fall/winter collection fit for braving even the longest London winter.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Burberry boutiques worldwide.<br />
Corporate Contact: Deluca Eubanks, (212) 595-0934. Visit www.burberry.com.<br />
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
Bailey turned out a wide selection of<br />
covetable coats, from brown leather<br />
shearlings to oversized, double-breasted<br />
wool overcoats—all promising to protect<br />
the wearer from the elements while ensuring<br />
they still look sophisticated. With<br />
classic naval and military-inspired details<br />
like gold buttons and epaulets, these are<br />
garments you’ll want to wear for many<br />
winters to come. So as not to detract<br />
from the terrific toppers, underpinnings<br />
were kept smart and simple: Think slimcut<br />
trousers and crewneck sweaters. (On<br />
model: Winsor felt pleat peacoat, $2,495;<br />
dark indigo shirt, $275; blue tricotine<br />
slim-fit trousers, $795; dark chocolate<br />
leather lace up boots, $795).
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
The overall vibe at Calvin Klein for fall<br />
2010 was a little edgy, a little futuristic<br />
and seriously sexy. Impeccably constructed<br />
jackets and slim trousers were<br />
cut close to the body in a celebration of<br />
masculine contours, while unexpected<br />
materials like Mylar and iridescent nylon<br />
added plenty of interest to suiting. (Main<br />
image: Onyx cotton lapel tuxedo, onyx<br />
merino crewneck sweater, black rubberized<br />
canvas double strap boot, all price<br />
available upon request; on inset image:<br />
Cotton/nylon two-button suit,hooded<br />
sweater, and leather lace up with snap<br />
cover, all price available upon request).<br />
CalVin klein<br />
Calvin Klein Creative Director Italo Zucchelli is always forward-thinking without being inscrutable. The designer knows how<br />
to tweak traditional pieces in wearable new ways. His fall 2010 showing was decidedly masculine, with an emphasis on sleek,<br />
sculpted silhouettes and textural fabric treatments.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Calvin Klein boutiques and Saks Fifth Avenue in New York.<br />
Corporate Contact: Eva Baud, (212) 292-9000. Visit www.calkinkleincollection.com.
Canali<br />
After 75 years of being at the top of the tailoring business, Canali has plenty to celebrate. Not content to rest on their laurels, the<br />
design team made “evolution” the keyword for fall 2010, creating pieces for the modern, fashion-forward man.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Canali boutiques nationwide.<br />
Corporate Contact: Tom Junk, (310) 270-4200. Visit www.canali.it.<br />
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
The two key collections for fall are<br />
Milano and Kei. The Milano Collection<br />
boasts its own special label and features<br />
metropolitan staples like slim suits<br />
and sharp-shouldered jackets. The Kei<br />
Collection offers a more romantic feel,<br />
with the deconstructed Kei jacket at its<br />
core. (Far left: Two-button jacket, $1,850;<br />
five-button waistcoat, $525; flat-front<br />
cotton trousers, $395; exclusive shirt with<br />
small collar, $395; pure silk ascot, $225;<br />
glossy shaded calfskin belt, $275; oxford<br />
shoe with brogue detail, $575; semipolished<br />
calfskin zipped document holder,<br />
$1,125. Right: Two-button wool-cashmere<br />
suit, $1,295; slim fit cotton shirt with soft<br />
collar, $375; wool tie, $195; elkskin belt,<br />
$275; leather moccasin with tassels,<br />
$595).
Car sHoe<br />
Having patented their signature design in 1963, Car Shoe has been synonymous with the driving shoe for nearly 50 years. The<br />
company was founded in Italy by artisan Gianni Mostile, whose passion for race cars inspired him to create a shoe with a rubber<br />
tread sole. Since then, they’ve been coveted by those who live life in the fast lane, worn by everyone from John F. Kennedy to Fiat<br />
heir Lapo Elkann.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Chuckies in New York.<br />
Corporate Contact: Alex, (718) 376-1003. Visit www.carshoe.com.<br />
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
While the company is best known for their<br />
effortless, travel-ready driving mocs and<br />
loafers, for Fall 2010 Car Shoe is proving<br />
it’s more than just a one-hit wonder with<br />
new classics like suede desert boots and<br />
fashion-forward high-tops (From top:<br />
Ankle boot, $495; green loafer, $430;<br />
purple loafer, $485).
Cesare paCiotti<br />
Cesare Paciotti’s range of footwear, handbags, eyewear and jewelry tempers provocative and fashion-forward designs with exquisite<br />
craftsmanship. More than just a flash in the pan, these accessories strike the right balance between envelope-pushing and elegant,<br />
kind of like the stylish celebrities—among them John Legend and Justin Timberlake—who covet them.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Cesare Paciotti boutiques in New York, Beverly Hills and Bal Harbour.<br />
Corporate Contact: Cinzia Bernasconi, (212) 245-3785; cinzia@cesare-paciotti.us. Visit www.cesare-paciotti.com.<br />
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
For fall, Cesare Paciotti went back to<br />
black, turning out brogues, boots, bags<br />
and more that were anything but basic,<br />
thanks to the use of interesting materials<br />
like glossy patent leather, glazed leather<br />
and croc—not to mention plenty of<br />
detailing, in the form of shiny silver<br />
zippers and studs. (Black patent leather<br />
lace-up brogues with accent studs. $650).
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
The process of creating each Church’s<br />
shoe is a laborious one involving more<br />
than 250 different steps that can take up<br />
to eight weeks to complete. Using Goodyear<br />
construction, the brand focuses on<br />
producing variations on styles that will<br />
undeniably be worn centuries from now:<br />
Loafers, brogues, oxfords and boots.<br />
Styles like this hardy, winter-ready<br />
boot are seasonally appropriate without<br />
skimping on style. (Right: Canadian boot,<br />
$590).<br />
CHurCH’s<br />
Staunchly proud of its English heritage, Church’s was founded in Northampton in 1873 by a family that produced men’s shoes<br />
since the 17th century. Never interested in chasing trends, Church’s focus has always been on values that never date—quality,<br />
reliability and comfort.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at the Church’s boutique in New York.<br />
Corporate Contact: Dominick Lauria, (212) 758-5200. Visit www.church-footwear.com.
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
Cufflinks are Deakin & Francis’ signature.<br />
It boasts an inventory that tops 1,000<br />
styles ranging from accessible offerings<br />
in sterling silver to intricate creations<br />
heaped with precious stones. The brand<br />
has cornered the market on fanciful,<br />
cheeky cufflinks: It boasts a skull with<br />
eyes that pop as its jaw opens and shuts,<br />
a menagerie of animals and emblems<br />
that represent every conceivable hobby.<br />
For those who can’t find the perfect<br />
statement to accent a sleeve among<br />
the existing (and ever-growing) catalog,<br />
there’s always the option of a bespoke<br />
masterpiece created to one’s own specifications<br />
(from $8,500).<br />
deakin & franCis<br />
Proudly owned by the same family for more than seven generations, Deakin & Francis<br />
has been producing fine jewelry and metalwork for more than 200 years. While the heritage<br />
of craftsmanship guarantees quality, there’s nothing stodgy about the enormously inventive<br />
designs coming out of its Birmingham-based workshop.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Bergdorf Goodman in New York.<br />
Corporate Contact: James Deakin, 44-121-236-7751;<br />
cufflinks@deakinandfrancis.co.uk. Visit www.deakinandfrancis.co.uk.
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
In the label’s formative years, Dior Homme<br />
was best known for its super-skinny suits<br />
and shrunken silhouettes. For fall 2010,<br />
Van Assche did a 180, letting loose with<br />
billowing overcoats, voluminous dropcrotch<br />
trousers and deliberately shortened<br />
pants. What remains a constant?<br />
Black—lots of it—and the cutting-edge<br />
urbanity that the brand’s revelers have<br />
come to expect. (On model: Black shearling<br />
jacket, $4,100; suit jacket, $1,900;<br />
cropped pants, $560; classic dress shirt,<br />
$420; black boots with harness buckle,<br />
$850).<br />
dior HoMMe<br />
Since 2001, when Dior Homme first came to fruition under then-creative director Hedi Slimane, the label has been the darling of fashion<br />
editors around the world. Having taken the reins nearly four years ago, Slimane’s former assistant, the talented Kris Van Assche, has<br />
only built on his radical success.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Dior Homme in New York, Beverly Hills and Las Vegas.<br />
Corporate Contact: Paul Butler, (212) 421-6009. Visit www.diorhomme.com.
dolCe & gaBBana<br />
Season after season, Italian dream team Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana turn out menswear that is fun and fashion-forward, yet<br />
incredibly well-tailored. The vibe for fall 2010 was rugged, sexy and stylish—precisely everything you’d expect from this dynamic duo.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Dolce & Gabbana boutiques worldwide.<br />
Corporate Contact: Margaret Yuan, (212) 249-4100. Visit www.dolcegabbana.it<br />
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
Dolce & Gabbana’s women’s collection has<br />
always turned underwear into outerwear,<br />
now the pair has turned the technique to<br />
their men’s collection, too. No longer just<br />
an underpinning, long johns came out into<br />
the open in full force for fall 2010, teamed<br />
with matching henleys, substantial knits<br />
and distressed boots for an overall look<br />
that was anything but underdressed. For<br />
those not spending the season at a ski<br />
lodge, the collection’s luxurious velvet<br />
blazers and dapper vests have you covered<br />
(On model: Wool knit parka, $2,445;<br />
cotton henley sweater, $1,045; cotton tank<br />
top, $275; knit thermal pants, $1,045; distressed<br />
ankle boot, $825).
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
With design influences as far-reaching as<br />
Friday the 13th, The Rocky Horror Picture<br />
Show and “Hockey Night in Canada,” the<br />
fall 2010 collection from Dsquared² was<br />
lively, campy and—barring a pair of black<br />
angel wings and the faux cuts and bruises<br />
the models sported—surprisngly wearable.<br />
Slim-fit denim and close-cut black<br />
trousers made perfect partners to motocross<br />
jackets, evening-ready blazers and<br />
graphic tees. It’s Italian style at its edgiest.<br />
dsquared2<br />
Cheeky twins Dan and Dean Caten reinvigorate laid-back sportswear staples with a high-low approach that throws formal<br />
elements into the mix.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Dsquared² boutiques in Hong Kong, Singapore, Dubai, Cannes, Kiev, Capri, Istanbul and<br />
Milan.<br />
Corporate Contact: Mareilla Maniscalo, 39-2-8969-1699, storemilan@dsquared2.com. Visit www.dsquared2.com.
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
This season’s offerings pay homage to the<br />
complex relationship between man and<br />
nature. Fabric colors stand for different<br />
elements—shades of blue represent sky<br />
and sea, green hues recall lush forests<br />
and greys mark stones and mountains.<br />
Sumptuous materials like cashmere and<br />
velvet were selected for their beauty as<br />
well as their warmth, while the silhouettes<br />
remain sophisticated, yet nonchalant:<br />
Think ponchos, denim, hybrid jackets<br />
and suits worn with polos rather than<br />
dress shirts for a look of laidback luxury.<br />
For timeless accessories, Zegna is tops—<br />
buy one of their ultra-soft deerskin bags<br />
now, and carry it forever. (On model: cashmere<br />
pullover, $1,545; double breasted<br />
suit, $2,495; black dress shoe, $535).<br />
erMenegildo zegna<br />
Now in its centennial year, Ermenegildo Zegna proves with each new season that elegance doesn’t have to be uptight. Thanks to<br />
innovative fabrics and exquisite tailoring, the Zegna man always looks effortlessly elegant.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Ermenegildo Zegna boutiques, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, select Neiman Marcus,<br />
Saks Fifth Avenue, Barney’s New York and Bloomingdale’s department stores, and specialty boutiques.<br />
Corporate Contact: Franco Salhi, (212) 421-4488. Visit www.zegna.com.
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
Etro toned down its usual predilection for<br />
colliding pattern-on-pattern mixes for<br />
slightly more subdued styling choices,<br />
but in so doing translated the brand’s<br />
happy paisleys and energetic bursts of<br />
color into ideas that shoppers will understand<br />
and want to buy. Tones of cabernet,<br />
lime, olive, teal and saffron are<br />
accessible injections of color for guys<br />
interested in experiment with color, as<br />
well as sartorial peacocks. There was an<br />
outdoorsy aspect to the collection with<br />
hunting jackets, jodphurs shown alongside<br />
traditional shooting (On model:<br />
Coat, $2,252; knitted vest, $805; trousers,<br />
price available upon request; hat,<br />
$213 and scarf, $194).<br />
etro<br />
Never dour, Etro lavishes in color and pattern even in somber times. For fall 2010, Kean Etro—founder Gimmo’s son—threw<br />
some traditional tailoring into the mix, amidst the usual flourishes like vibrant scarves, baroque paisley shirting and quirky<br />
chapeaux.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Etro boutiques in New York, Coral Gables, Beverly Hills, Las Vegas and Manhasset.<br />
Corporate Contact: Carla Verschuren, (212) 317-9096. Visit www.etro.com.
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
One never goes to a Giorgio Armani<br />
runway presentation expecting wild<br />
changes in direction. The brand’s<br />
look is essentially patented: relaxed<br />
tailoring with an air or easy urbanity<br />
will never be supplanted by out-there<br />
flourishes. But there’s plenty of room<br />
to maneuver within those parameters<br />
and the fall Giorgio Armani collection<br />
incorporated a mix of pattern and texture<br />
that hasn’t been seen from the label<br />
in a long time: graphic, amorphous<br />
dots, marled wool, chevrons, and<br />
checks, sometimes piled together in a<br />
single go. To bring unity to the lineup of<br />
shawl, Cossack, and Mandarin collared<br />
jackets, the color scheme didn’t stray<br />
far from deep greys and inky black.<br />
giorgio arMani<br />
There’s no denying that Giorgio Armani will go down in history as one of fashion’s greatest empire builders. Soft tailoring made<br />
his name, but now nothing’s beyond his reach, from refined sportwear to ultra-hip denim, to iconic fragrance and beauty lines.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Giorgio Armani boutiques worldwide.<br />
Corporate Contact: Diondre St. Amand, (212) 988-9191. Visit www.armani.com.
Harrys of london<br />
Harrys of London stresses scrupulous craftsmanship with a dapper, sporty edge—the product of American and English<br />
approaches to shoe construction. Comfort, longevity and uncompromising style unite a collection that spans from oxfords to<br />
camouflage-covered mocs.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Mojito’s in the Wynn Las Vegas Casino & Resort.<br />
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
HOL’s Creative Director Kevin Martel is an<br />
expert at reworking favorites like rugged<br />
desert boots, timeless wing-tip brogues<br />
and the luxe Jet Moc that ensures its<br />
clients are elegantly shod even while<br />
in flight. (From top to bottom: Bradley<br />
waxed calf desert boot, $695, waxed<br />
cotton Jet Moc 2, $475, and Dwain Kudu<br />
antelope suede desert boot, $585).<br />
Corporate Contact: Claire Marino, (212) 909-4336; cmarino@harrysoflondon.com. Visit www.harrysoflondon.com.
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
Frequently Paul & Shark introduces<br />
items that reflect its expert fabric<br />
research. This fall, the company will<br />
launch an all-new knitwear collection<br />
with their own Cool Touch wool—ideal<br />
for its resistance to pilling and lightweight<br />
feel. As always, the focus for<br />
the season was on streamlined, sporty<br />
separates that were made to last (On<br />
model: Storm System wind and waterproof<br />
cashmere coat with detachable<br />
fur collar, price available upon request).<br />
paul & sHark<br />
In the world of Paul & Shark the nautical look isn’t a trend to dust off from time to<br />
time. Yachting and marine pursuits direct the ethos of the brand. The sporty, Italianbased<br />
company creates great casual pieces and technical garments with performance<br />
to match.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Paul & Shark stores in New York, Bal<br />
Harbour, Beverly Hills, Sausalito and Short Hills, New Jersey.<br />
Corporate Contact: Sales Director Urbano Steriti, (212) 765-2792.<br />
Visit www.paulshark.it.
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
Cobalt blue buffalo plaid, flowing harem<br />
pants and shiny track jackets were spliced<br />
together with cozy camel shawl neck<br />
sweaters and trad flannel trousers in Paul<br />
Smith’s topsy turny fall collection. If a<br />
teen’s street smart wardrobe were tossed<br />
together with his grandfather’s favorites<br />
you might get the same effect. Smith’s<br />
talent for making tailored pieces shocking<br />
and cardigans outré has made him a pivotal<br />
player able to get a young customer<br />
interested in buying real clothes. (On<br />
model: Shiny two-button London suit,<br />
about $1,580).<br />
paul sMitH<br />
Even as an elder statement among the contemporary designing set, the ever irreverent Paul Smith sets the pace when it comes to<br />
turning the traditions of English tailoring on end. If ever a designer appeals to politicos and punks, he’s the one.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at the Paul Smith boutique in New York.<br />
Corporate Contact: Ibie Isai, (646) 613-3060; madison@paulsharkusa.net. Visit www.paulsmithusa.com.
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
Aside from a few well-placed peeks of of<br />
royal purple, searing pink or azure blue<br />
fall’s Ralph Lauren Collection hewed to a<br />
palette restricted to black, grey. olive or<br />
camel. The perfectly edited array of color<br />
kept the emphasis on razor sharp, masculine<br />
tailoring that underscores just how<br />
sexy a well cut suit can be. Even when at<br />
play, the silhouette stays lean and mean in<br />
abbreviated shearling motorcycle jackets,<br />
ski sweaters and belted cashmere coats.<br />
(On model: Zurich belted peacoat,<br />
$4,995; Harrison corduroy pant, $450,<br />
and brushed cashmere scarf, $395).<br />
ralpH lauren<br />
Ralph Lauren is the imitable king of haute American style in all its guises. From East Coast preppy to rugged cowboy chic, Ralph<br />
Lauren hones the highlights of the country’s iconic looks in covetable new incarnations from season to season.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Ralph Lauren boutiques.<br />
Corporate Contact: Jim Miller, (212) 606-2100. Visit www.ralphlauren.com.
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
At first glance, Salvatore Ferragamo’s fall<br />
show had shades of Easy Rider’s countercultural<br />
western sensibility, with piled<br />
on shaggy layers and weighty boots that<br />
are ready for the open road. But once you<br />
get beyond the rock and roll sensibility<br />
of the styling, it’s easy to see that the<br />
brand’s hallmark luxury still stands but<br />
with a range that extends to a younger<br />
more irreverent set, too. Elements like<br />
shearling toggle coats, argyle knits, and<br />
leather trenches in a vibrant spectrum<br />
of jewel and spice tones will attract a farranging,<br />
though universally well-heeled<br />
customer. And a passage of evening looks<br />
packed with color, print—paisley, stripes,<br />
checks—and quilted textures made basic<br />
black tuxedos seem suddenly unacceptable.<br />
(Shearling coat with horn toggles,<br />
$3,900; wool knit sweater, $1,300; plaid<br />
wool pant, $600; suede boots with distressed<br />
toe, $1,200).<br />
salVatore ferragaMo<br />
Forever associated with Hollywood and its glamorous denizens, Salvatore Ferragamo long ago transcended the title of “shoe-<br />
maker to the stars” to become even more. On the 40th anniversary of its first foray into producing men’s shoes and accessories,<br />
the brand showed a confident collection that ranged from rugged to dandified.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Salvatore Ferragamo boutiques worldwide.<br />
Corporate Contact: Gilda DeBortoli, (212) 759-3822. Visit www.ferragamo.com.
$695; scarf, $195; dress shirt, $425).<br />
santoni<br />
There’s no mistaking a Santoni shoe, whether it’s a handmade oxford or a playful sport shoe. With reverence for tradition and maintaining<br />
exceptional quality, Santoni advances its art with shoes that are both modern and timeless.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Santoni stores worldwide.<br />
Corporate Contact: James Rarus, (212) 794-3820. Visit www.santonishoes.com.<br />
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
Santoni’s collection runs the gamut from<br />
traditional understatement to fun loving<br />
flash. The brand continuously tweaks its<br />
mix of models by reelaborating shapes<br />
slightly and introducing new treatments<br />
and fabrics. The Shabby Chic collection<br />
of already broken-in shoes with a<br />
pre-perfected patina has expanded for<br />
fall with new shapes. Of course, elegant,<br />
hand painted classics will always be the<br />
backbone of the collection (Hand antiqued<br />
baby calfskin cap-toe Oxford, $650).er,
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
The debut showing was a testament to<br />
refined British tailoring, with a twist of<br />
New York urban edge. Featuring trim<br />
three-piece suits, uber-fitted jeans and a<br />
bevy of double-breasted coats, the looks<br />
were right on trend without ever trying<br />
too hard. A small but standout display of<br />
accessories—which included the perfect<br />
carry-all leather weekend bag—rounded<br />
out the mix. (On model: Burgundy Harrington<br />
trench in lamb leather, $2,995;<br />
grey wool and cashmere beanie, $175,<br />
grey wool flannel pants, $495).<br />
siMon spurr<br />
Making its debut this fall/winter season, designer Simon<br />
Spurr’s eponymous label is a full collection of hand-finished,<br />
Italian-made suiting, leather and more that builds<br />
on the success of his existing SPURR line.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at The<br />
Webster in Miami and Saks Fifth Avenue in New York<br />
and San Francisco.<br />
Corporate Contact: Sylvain Corbeaux, (212) 753-4000.<br />
Visit www.spurr.tv.
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
Season after season, Stefano Ricci<br />
turns out classic designs in the most<br />
sumptuous of fabrics, from the company’s<br />
own exclusive 100% cotton to pure<br />
lightweight cashmere. Hand-printed and<br />
woven Luxury Collection neckties, offered<br />
in a wide range of patterns and colors,<br />
provide a handsome update to a triedand-true<br />
suit (Shown: Two-button jacket<br />
with contrast stitching, cotton shirt and<br />
cashmere Luxury Collection necktie, all<br />
price available upon request).<br />
SteFAno RiCCi<br />
This family-run Italian house delivers beautifully tailored suits, shirting and sportswear, all meticulously crafted by hand in Ricci’s native<br />
Florence. Luxurious leather goods and accessories complete the look.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Stefano Ricci in New York and Beverly Hills, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and Neiman<br />
Marcus and Holt Renfrew department stores.<br />
Corporate Contact: Stefano Ricci in New York, (212) 371-3901. Visit www.stefanoricci.com.
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
Stefano Ricci’s hallmark is impeccable<br />
tailoring, thanks to the expertise of<br />
the generations of master craftsmen<br />
employed in the company’s Florence<br />
factory. A keen eye for detail and<br />
uncompromising standards of excellence<br />
ensure a perfect-fit suit everytime. Sleek<br />
pinstripes are another label mainstay,<br />
featuring prominently in every collection.<br />
SteFAno RiCCi<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Stefano Ricci in New York and Beverly Hills, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and<br />
Neiman Marcus and Holt Renfrew department stores. Visit www.stefanoricci.com.
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
In addition to beautiful suiting, Stefano<br />
Ricci offers a wide range of chic<br />
sportswear to take you from work to<br />
weekend seamlessly. Standouts include<br />
this streamlined suede jacket—it’s<br />
laidback, yet luxe enough to secure a<br />
treasured spot in your fall wardrobe for<br />
years to come.<br />
SteFAno RiCCi<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Stefano Ricci in New York and Beverly Hills, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and<br />
Neiman Marcus and Holt Renfrew department stores. Visit www.stefanoricci.com.
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
When tempered with a solid black collar,<br />
a bold pattern lends just the right touch of<br />
individual style to a tailored look. Stefano<br />
Ricci offers a whole host of elegant<br />
shirting, from crisp cottons to sensual<br />
silks (price available upon request).<br />
SteFAno RiCCi<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Stefano Ricci in New York and Beverly Hills, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and<br />
Neiman Marcus and Holt Renfrew department stores. Visit www.stefanoricci.com.
SteFAno RiCCi<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Stefano Ricci in New York and Beverly Hills, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and<br />
Neiman Marcus and Holt Renfrew department stores. Visit www.stefanoricci.com.<br />
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
Mixing stripes, polka dots and plaid could<br />
come off as overkill in the wrong hands, but<br />
Stefano Ricci deftly incorporates all three<br />
patterns in one perfectly dapper ensemble,<br />
using clean tailoring and a subdued color<br />
palette to create a signature style.
SteFAno RiCCi<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Stefano Ricci in New York and Beverly Hills, Bergdorf Goodman in New York,<br />
and Neiman Marcus and Holt Renfrew department stores. Visit www.stefanoricci.com.<br />
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
The label truly hits its stride with its eve-<br />
ning-ready offerings, like this sleek tux-<br />
edo. A tailored jacket with a subtle plaid<br />
pattern and embellished silk bowtie with<br />
tonal beading provide a fresh take on classic<br />
formalwear (prices available upon request).
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
For their most loyal fans, Stefano Ricci<br />
introduces a new fine fragrance collection<br />
to ensure they’re always outfitted in their<br />
favorite label, right down to their cologne.<br />
Housed in a sleek silver bottle, it makes<br />
a great gift for any well-dressed man in<br />
your life (price available upon request).<br />
SteFAno RiCCi<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Stefano Ricci in New York and Beverly Hills, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and<br />
Neiman Marcus and Holt Renfrew department stores. Visit www.stefanoricci.com.
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
More than just expert tailoring, Stefano<br />
Ricci has a masterful hand with luxurious<br />
leather, incorporating exotic skins into<br />
many of their accessories designs, from<br />
pens to oversized satchels. Crafted from<br />
grey croc, these gloves are sure to add<br />
opulence to cold-weather dressing (price<br />
available upon request).<br />
SteFAno RiCCi<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Stefano Ricci in New York and Beverly Hills, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and<br />
Neiman Marcus and Holt Renfrew department stores. Visit www.stefanoricci.com.
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
Timeless leather goods, like this top-han-<br />
dle tote, cap off a fall wardrobe. Thanks to<br />
its fine Italian construction, polished gold<br />
details and rich, glossy brown hue, this<br />
go-anywhere bag will look right on-trend<br />
for years to come (price available upon<br />
request).<br />
SteFAno RiCCi<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Stefano Ricci in New York and Beverly Hills, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and<br />
Neiman Marcus and Holt Renfrew department stores. Visit www.stefanoricci.com.
SteFAno RiCCi<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Stefano Ricci in New York and Beverly Hills, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and<br />
Neiman Marcus and Holt Renfrew department stores. Visit www.stefanoricci.com.<br />
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
Stefano Ricci specializes in jeweled cuf-<br />
flinks with quirky designs that make for<br />
an unforgettable finish to any ensemble.<br />
These 18K gold horse cufflinks feature<br />
diamond insets for a hit of sophisticated<br />
sparkle at the wrist (price available upon<br />
request).
SteFAno RiCCi<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Stefano Ricci in New York and Beverly Hills, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and<br />
Neiman Marcus and Holt Renfrew department stores. Visit www.stefanoricci.com.<br />
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
No fall wardrobe is complete without a<br />
great pair of shoes—and these classic<br />
lace-ups, done in beautiful burnished<br />
leather, fit the bill perfectly. They look<br />
just as suave with a pair of jeans as they<br />
do with your favorite suit (price available<br />
upon request).
ColleCtion HigHligHt<br />
As always, Zilli incorporates exotic skins<br />
into the range. The brand is a leader in<br />
taking its outerwear and accessories to<br />
the nth degree by finishing them in precious<br />
ostrich, python or croc, among<br />
others. Celebrating its 40th anniversary<br />
this year, the Zilli continues to push the<br />
envelope with hyper-luxurious new fabrics.<br />
The latest is a new combination of<br />
cashmere and chinchilla, which crops up<br />
in jackets, boots, and even luggage. The<br />
label also continues to expand its tailoring<br />
and sportwear range so that it’s truly<br />
become a resource for a total wardrobe<br />
(On model: Pinstripe navy blue wool suit,<br />
$4,500; cotton poplin shirt, $830; satin-finish<br />
alligator briefcase, $20,600; cashmere<br />
trench coat with removable mink collar,<br />
$12,600 and jacquard silk tie, $230).<br />
zilli<br />
Zilli specializes in money-is-no-object luxury sportswear. Founded in 1970, and<br />
still family-run, the brand is the place to indulge a passion for exuberantly<br />
refined fashion, from outerwear to accessories.<br />
| Where To Buy | The collection is available at Zilli in New York.<br />
Corporate Contact: Christopher Lacy, (212) 207-4028;<br />
zilli.newyork@zilli.fr. Visit www.zilli.fr.