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Xbox 360 Pre-Wired Bowtie LED Mod - JMODSCUSTOMCONSOLES

Xbox 360 Pre-Wired Bowtie LED Mod - JMODSCUSTOMCONSOLES

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<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />

<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong><br />

<strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />

This tutorial and all it’s content are property of<br />

www.JmodsCustomConsoles.co.uk and cannot be reused or reproduced<br />

with-out explicit rights from JmodsCustomConsoles.


<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />

<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />

Tools Required<br />

-Soldering Iron<br />

-Solder<br />

-Wire Cutter


<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />

<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />

Choosing which Controller<br />

Matrix Wireless Board<br />

CG Wireless Board<br />

CG2 Wireless Board<br />

Matrix<br />

No Capacitor on the<br />

back side<br />

CG<br />

Capacitor on the<br />

back side located<br />

HORIZONTALLY<br />

CG2<br />

Capacitor on the<br />

back side located<br />

VERTICALLY<br />

This will be important for later on. If you have any problems finding out<br />

which controller is yours. Take a picture of the rear of the motherboard<br />

and send to Jackson@jmods.co.uk and ill get back to you which is version<br />

of controller is yours.


<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />

<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />

Opening Controller<br />

There are 7 screws (T8) located on the<br />

back of the controller. All must be unscrewed.<br />

Please Note one of the screw is<br />

located under the warranty sticker (Can<br />

be removed carefully with tweezers or<br />

go straight through with the screwdriver.<br />

The easiest way to pull the controller<br />

apart is to push both thumbsticks<br />

through and pull the back off carefully<br />

(must keep the front facing down or buttons<br />

will fall out).


<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />

<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />

<strong>Pre</strong>paring <strong>Bowtie</strong><br />

This is what you will receive in the pack<br />

pre-wired <strong>LED</strong> glued into place on in the<br />

bowtie. Check both sides to make sure no<br />

excess glue has been covered onto the<br />

hole.<br />

There will be four wires coming off the<br />

bowtie piece. (two negative, two positive).<br />

There is three easy way of checking<br />

which is which.<br />

1. Look at the <strong>LED</strong> (as pictured above)<br />

one leg of the <strong>LED</strong> will be longer<br />

than the other) and the longer leg is<br />

the positive.<br />

2. (not the easiest way) Get a battery<br />

and connect one end to each and<br />

check which way round works.<br />

3. Connect the transistor and find the<br />

positive pin and try either way<br />

round. (not for rumble activated)<br />

Once you found each positive wire hold<br />

together (by twisting or soldering) for the<br />

next step, also do the same with the two<br />

negative wires.


<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />

<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />

<strong>Pre</strong>paring Controller<br />

To make sure the pre-wired bowtie fits<br />

okay. You will have to cut the circ<strong>LED</strong> leg<br />

of either side of the rumble motor<br />

holder.<br />

Cut the top off (about 5-10mm) and repeat<br />

for the other side of the controller.<br />

This means the bowtie will fit in easier.


Rumble Activated<br />

Skip to page 9 if you want the<br />

<strong>LED</strong>s to stay on


<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />

<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />

Connecting Pins<br />

On the board you will find connected<br />

the rumble motors. Above the wires<br />

are two pins. You will see that one<br />

connects to the red wire (positive)<br />

and one to the black (negative)<br />

Now solder the positive wire to the<br />

positive pin and negative wire to<br />

negative pin. Repeat for the other<br />

side.<br />

Your controller should now look something<br />

like this.<br />

CONTINUE TO PAGE 13


<strong>LED</strong>s always on<br />

(when the controller is)


<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />

<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />

<strong>Pre</strong>paring Transistor<br />

Not required for rumble activated mod<br />

COLLECTOR<br />

Flat face down<br />

BASE<br />

EMITTER<br />

This is what you will receive in the pack<br />

(1.8k resistor and transistor) cut the resistor<br />

done to about 10-15mm. Then cut<br />

the middle leg down by half of the transistor<br />

Then solder the resistor to the<br />

centre leg as shown in the picture.<br />

(NOTE TRANSISTOR FACING<br />

FLAT FACE DOWN)


<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />

<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />

Connecting to a MATRIX Controller<br />

RIGHT HAND SIDE PIN<br />

For a matrix controller. The transistor<br />

needs to be soldered in like this. The<br />

collector is connected to the top pin.<br />

The base connected to the bottom<br />

pin. The Emitter is connected to the<br />

two NEGATIVE wires.<br />

Note: Do not cover the bottom hole as<br />

this is where the screw goes.<br />

To connect the power solder the two<br />

POSITIVE wires (as marked before) to<br />

the right hand pin in the cluster.


<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />

<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />

Connecting to a CG1 & CG2 Controller<br />

For a CG1 & CG2 controller the transistor<br />

needs to be soldered in like this.<br />

The collector is connected to the two<br />

NEGATIVE wires. The base connected<br />

to the top pin. The Emitter is connected<br />

to the bottom pin .<br />

To connect the power, solder the two<br />

POSITIVE wires (as marked before) to<br />

the battery + on the reverse of the<br />

controller.


<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />

<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />

Connecting to a WIRED Controller (No Transistor)<br />

RIGHT HAND SIDE PIN<br />

This is connecting the ground for the<br />

WIRED controller. NO TRANSISTOR<br />

NEEDED. Solder the two NEGATIVE<br />

wires directly to the PIN/HOLE were it<br />

says GND.<br />

To connect the power solder the two<br />

POSITIVE wires (as marked before) to<br />

the right hand pin in the cluster.


<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />

<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />

Reassemble Controller<br />

The <strong>LED</strong>s should now light up when<br />

the controller turns on (or vibrates)<br />

. If not check the wiring.<br />

Please note: If you are using a rechargeable<br />

battery pack and the <strong>LED</strong>s look dim, please<br />

try standard/rechargeable (1.5V) batteries.<br />

Reassemble controller by carefully without damaging any wires (opposite of taking<br />

apart). This can be tricky and can take time and care.<br />

If for any reasons you are stuck, have any problem or queries please contact me first<br />

before leaving feedback. Email: jackson@jmods.co.uk<br />

Please view the FAQ on the next page


<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />

<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />

Frequently asked questions<br />

I am installing more than one <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong>. What do i need to do?<br />

When you are wiring your <strong>LED</strong> mods up, find all of the positive wires and solder<br />

them together, then do the same for the negative. Then solder to the PCB Board<br />

as the guides show you.<br />

Do i need to have more than one transistor/resistor for multiply mods?<br />

No. You will only ever need to use one transistor/resistor on your controller no<br />

matter how many mods your install (not required for matrix controller)<br />

The <strong>LED</strong>s look dim, what should i do?<br />

Make sure you are using fresh or fully charged batteries. Please make sure you<br />

are using either 1.5V standard batteries or 1.5V rechargeable batteries. To get<br />

the most out of your <strong>LED</strong>s please don't use rechargeable battery packs as these<br />

don't produce enough voltage for the <strong>LED</strong>s.<br />

None of the <strong>LED</strong>s light up when I've assembled my controller?<br />

Please check your wiring, make sure you have got your positive and negative<br />

wires together. Please check that your solder points are not touching (bridging)<br />

with other points. Check your batteries are to the standards listed above. If they<br />

still aren't working properly please email pictures of you controller internals to<br />

jackson@jmods.co.uk to resolve the problems.<br />

I'm interest in Bulk or wholesale orders?<br />

Please contact jackson@jmods.co.uk with your requirements.

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