Xbox 360 Pre-Wired Bowtie LED Mod - JMODSCUSTOMCONSOLES
Xbox 360 Pre-Wired Bowtie LED Mod - JMODSCUSTOMCONSOLES
Xbox 360 Pre-Wired Bowtie LED Mod - JMODSCUSTOMCONSOLES
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<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />
<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong><br />
<strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />
This tutorial and all it’s content are property of<br />
www.JmodsCustomConsoles.co.uk and cannot be reused or reproduced<br />
with-out explicit rights from JmodsCustomConsoles.
<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />
<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />
Tools Required<br />
-Soldering Iron<br />
-Solder<br />
-Wire Cutter
<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />
<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />
Choosing which Controller<br />
Matrix Wireless Board<br />
CG Wireless Board<br />
CG2 Wireless Board<br />
Matrix<br />
No Capacitor on the<br />
back side<br />
CG<br />
Capacitor on the<br />
back side located<br />
HORIZONTALLY<br />
CG2<br />
Capacitor on the<br />
back side located<br />
VERTICALLY<br />
This will be important for later on. If you have any problems finding out<br />
which controller is yours. Take a picture of the rear of the motherboard<br />
and send to Jackson@jmods.co.uk and ill get back to you which is version<br />
of controller is yours.
<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />
<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />
Opening Controller<br />
There are 7 screws (T8) located on the<br />
back of the controller. All must be unscrewed.<br />
Please Note one of the screw is<br />
located under the warranty sticker (Can<br />
be removed carefully with tweezers or<br />
go straight through with the screwdriver.<br />
The easiest way to pull the controller<br />
apart is to push both thumbsticks<br />
through and pull the back off carefully<br />
(must keep the front facing down or buttons<br />
will fall out).
<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />
<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />
<strong>Pre</strong>paring <strong>Bowtie</strong><br />
This is what you will receive in the pack<br />
pre-wired <strong>LED</strong> glued into place on in the<br />
bowtie. Check both sides to make sure no<br />
excess glue has been covered onto the<br />
hole.<br />
There will be four wires coming off the<br />
bowtie piece. (two negative, two positive).<br />
There is three easy way of checking<br />
which is which.<br />
1. Look at the <strong>LED</strong> (as pictured above)<br />
one leg of the <strong>LED</strong> will be longer<br />
than the other) and the longer leg is<br />
the positive.<br />
2. (not the easiest way) Get a battery<br />
and connect one end to each and<br />
check which way round works.<br />
3. Connect the transistor and find the<br />
positive pin and try either way<br />
round. (not for rumble activated)<br />
Once you found each positive wire hold<br />
together (by twisting or soldering) for the<br />
next step, also do the same with the two<br />
negative wires.
<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />
<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />
<strong>Pre</strong>paring Controller<br />
To make sure the pre-wired bowtie fits<br />
okay. You will have to cut the circ<strong>LED</strong> leg<br />
of either side of the rumble motor<br />
holder.<br />
Cut the top off (about 5-10mm) and repeat<br />
for the other side of the controller.<br />
This means the bowtie will fit in easier.
Rumble Activated<br />
Skip to page 9 if you want the<br />
<strong>LED</strong>s to stay on
<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />
<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />
Connecting Pins<br />
On the board you will find connected<br />
the rumble motors. Above the wires<br />
are two pins. You will see that one<br />
connects to the red wire (positive)<br />
and one to the black (negative)<br />
Now solder the positive wire to the<br />
positive pin and negative wire to<br />
negative pin. Repeat for the other<br />
side.<br />
Your controller should now look something<br />
like this.<br />
CONTINUE TO PAGE 13
<strong>LED</strong>s always on<br />
(when the controller is)
<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />
<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />
<strong>Pre</strong>paring Transistor<br />
Not required for rumble activated mod<br />
COLLECTOR<br />
Flat face down<br />
BASE<br />
EMITTER<br />
This is what you will receive in the pack<br />
(1.8k resistor and transistor) cut the resistor<br />
done to about 10-15mm. Then cut<br />
the middle leg down by half of the transistor<br />
Then solder the resistor to the<br />
centre leg as shown in the picture.<br />
(NOTE TRANSISTOR FACING<br />
FLAT FACE DOWN)
<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />
<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />
Connecting to a MATRIX Controller<br />
RIGHT HAND SIDE PIN<br />
For a matrix controller. The transistor<br />
needs to be soldered in like this. The<br />
collector is connected to the top pin.<br />
The base connected to the bottom<br />
pin. The Emitter is connected to the<br />
two NEGATIVE wires.<br />
Note: Do not cover the bottom hole as<br />
this is where the screw goes.<br />
To connect the power solder the two<br />
POSITIVE wires (as marked before) to<br />
the right hand pin in the cluster.
<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />
<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />
Connecting to a CG1 & CG2 Controller<br />
For a CG1 & CG2 controller the transistor<br />
needs to be soldered in like this.<br />
The collector is connected to the two<br />
NEGATIVE wires. The base connected<br />
to the top pin. The Emitter is connected<br />
to the bottom pin .<br />
To connect the power, solder the two<br />
POSITIVE wires (as marked before) to<br />
the battery + on the reverse of the<br />
controller.
<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />
<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />
Connecting to a WIRED Controller (No Transistor)<br />
RIGHT HAND SIDE PIN<br />
This is connecting the ground for the<br />
WIRED controller. NO TRANSISTOR<br />
NEEDED. Solder the two NEGATIVE<br />
wires directly to the PIN/HOLE were it<br />
says GND.<br />
To connect the power solder the two<br />
POSITIVE wires (as marked before) to<br />
the right hand pin in the cluster.
<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />
<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />
Reassemble Controller<br />
The <strong>LED</strong>s should now light up when<br />
the controller turns on (or vibrates)<br />
. If not check the wiring.<br />
Please note: If you are using a rechargeable<br />
battery pack and the <strong>LED</strong>s look dim, please<br />
try standard/rechargeable (1.5V) batteries.<br />
Reassemble controller by carefully without damaging any wires (opposite of taking<br />
apart). This can be tricky and can take time and care.<br />
If for any reasons you are stuck, have any problem or queries please contact me first<br />
before leaving feedback. Email: jackson@jmods.co.uk<br />
Please view the FAQ on the next page
<strong>Xbox</strong> <strong>360</strong><br />
<strong>Pre</strong>-<strong>Wired</strong> <strong>Bowtie</strong> <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong><br />
Frequently asked questions<br />
I am installing more than one <strong>LED</strong> <strong>Mod</strong>. What do i need to do?<br />
When you are wiring your <strong>LED</strong> mods up, find all of the positive wires and solder<br />
them together, then do the same for the negative. Then solder to the PCB Board<br />
as the guides show you.<br />
Do i need to have more than one transistor/resistor for multiply mods?<br />
No. You will only ever need to use one transistor/resistor on your controller no<br />
matter how many mods your install (not required for matrix controller)<br />
The <strong>LED</strong>s look dim, what should i do?<br />
Make sure you are using fresh or fully charged batteries. Please make sure you<br />
are using either 1.5V standard batteries or 1.5V rechargeable batteries. To get<br />
the most out of your <strong>LED</strong>s please don't use rechargeable battery packs as these<br />
don't produce enough voltage for the <strong>LED</strong>s.<br />
None of the <strong>LED</strong>s light up when I've assembled my controller?<br />
Please check your wiring, make sure you have got your positive and negative<br />
wires together. Please check that your solder points are not touching (bridging)<br />
with other points. Check your batteries are to the standards listed above. If they<br />
still aren't working properly please email pictures of you controller internals to<br />
jackson@jmods.co.uk to resolve the problems.<br />
I'm interest in Bulk or wholesale orders?<br />
Please contact jackson@jmods.co.uk with your requirements.